Use corigated drain culverts, dont, use the old RR tank cars like these guys. Proper culvert pipe is coated with zinc or aluminum to last your life time. What was used here will not last.
Those aren't culverts, they are some old RR car tanks or some other rusty deformed pieces of crap that farmers toss in ditches! They don't backfill them properly nor leave an adequate space between them. My typical experience is that they are undersized for the waterway they are in. Probably never even consulted with the local drainage board to get approval to place them! FAIL!
If an actual drainage crew came to the place they would probably immediately dig out both culverts and get a bridge built. (a giant concrete box culvert is pretty much a bridge)
@tubedude54 I came across this video because I was looking into a somewhat similar project I am undertaking. I used a similar size pipe, 8 foot diameter, 16 foot length, however mine is for a little ditch creek that on a normal day is a small trickle. I only used a pipe this large because during heavy rain the creek can be 6-8 feet deep, we installed the pipe, however we are still needing to put material over the top. Do you have any recommendations on what to put over top? We want it to be drivable over, do you have any suggestions? If you actually reply, a better place to have a conversation would be ideal.
@@Adam-fg6xl If you are really serious about doing a proper job then I urge you to talk to the local county engineer as far as culvert size and type of material and installation requirements. (And it's FREE advice!) I worked as the drainage engineer for a county hwy dept and designed and oversaw the installation of many many culverts over my 27 yr career there. Proper sub-base preparation and back filling is essential for the installation to be sound and drivable. Many ditches may need local drainage board approval before you do any work on them. Ask the local surveyors office about legal drains etc. You say you want it drivable but what is the heaviest vehicle you expect to cross it? (axle load) Garbage trucks are one of the heaviest vehicles on the hwy when they are fully loaded with wet garbage... some are at 80 tons! You can look up typical pipe loading charts... here is one I found real quick. As far as backfill... any suitable B-borrow material can be used when compacted in 4-6" lifts with a vibratory compactor till you get to the top of the culvert... then you would change to crushed stone for the depth recommended for the culvert as it's minimum cover. Good luck with your project! Talk to the county engineer! metalculverts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Cover-heights-flyer.pdf
tubedude54 Thanks for all that info, I’m not the one spearheading the project, it’s actually my friends dad on their private land, the culvert is already in place and I’m afraid it’s too big to move. We did get a video of rolling it in because we figured it may be a bit chaotic. I’ll up load it to my channel and link it shortly ruclips.net/video/yRMVit6m08o/видео.html
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Wow... !!! My best friend, Great... We liked and enjoyed to the end. Thanks Have a happy day! Keep it up! +thumb up3!
Nice. I found that I was puckering up for the dozer on that last push.
Yeah these old tanks or whatever arent fit for purpose needs to be about 4 pipes half the size of these or a proper bridge
Around how much would doing this cost?
Evan great job love your videos!
If they had four drive wheelers on the dozer you wouldn’t here that clatter of the track being pulled around the three extra wheelers
Why are they so high and not even ??
Good job Guys!!!
Where can I get these pipe at that size ,I need twp
Use corigated drain culverts, dont, use the old RR tank cars like these guys. Proper culvert pipe is coated with zinc or aluminum to last your life time. What was used here will not last.
Those aren't culverts, they are some old RR car tanks or some other rusty deformed pieces of crap that farmers toss in ditches! They don't backfill them properly nor leave an adequate space between them. My typical experience is that they are undersized for the waterway they are in. Probably never even consulted with the local drainage board to get approval to place them! FAIL!
If an actual drainage crew came to the place they would probably immediately dig out both culverts and get a bridge built. (a giant concrete box culvert is pretty much a bridge)
Not to mention they do not have the proper compaction to distribute the load of what you drive over them. You are correct epic fail.
@tubedude54 I came across this video because I was looking into a somewhat similar project I am undertaking. I used a similar size pipe, 8 foot diameter, 16 foot length, however mine is for a little ditch creek that on a normal day is a small trickle. I only used a pipe this large because during heavy rain the creek can be 6-8 feet deep, we installed the pipe, however we are still needing to put material over the top. Do you have any recommendations on what to put over top? We want it to be drivable over, do you have any suggestions? If you actually reply, a better place to have a conversation would be ideal.
@@Adam-fg6xl If you are really serious about doing a proper job then I urge you to talk to the local county engineer as far as culvert size and type of material and installation requirements. (And it's FREE advice!) I worked as the drainage engineer for a county hwy dept and designed and oversaw the installation of many many culverts over my 27 yr career there. Proper sub-base preparation and back filling is essential for the installation to be sound and drivable. Many ditches may need local drainage board approval before you do any work on them. Ask the local surveyors office about legal drains etc. You say you want it drivable but what is the heaviest vehicle you expect to cross it? (axle load) Garbage trucks are one of the heaviest vehicles on the hwy when they are fully loaded with wet garbage... some are at 80 tons! You can look up typical pipe loading charts... here is one I found real quick. As far as backfill... any suitable B-borrow material can be used when compacted in 4-6" lifts with a vibratory compactor till you get to the top of the culvert... then you would change to crushed stone for the depth recommended for the culvert as it's minimum cover. Good luck with your project! Talk to the county engineer!
metalculverts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Cover-heights-flyer.pdf
tubedude54 Thanks for all that info, I’m not the one spearheading the project, it’s actually my friends dad on their private land, the culvert is already in place and I’m afraid it’s too big to move. We did get a video of rolling it in because we figured it may be a bit chaotic. I’ll up load it to my channel and link it shortly
ruclips.net/video/yRMVit6m08o/видео.html