Thanks for the video 😊👍🏼 Just one little side note... The depth of field _always_ changes with the magnification, that is not a question of price nor quality of the lens. It's an optical principle!
When using the white balance one push button, you are supposed to put a neutral gray card below the camera. Not something white like an A4 printer paper sheet, because it can be overexposed; white balancing should really be done on a lower brightness level. For example a Caruba DGC-1 gray card, or the gray card in a Colorchecker Passport will do. I know a perfect white balance is not important for this application, but if you make youtube videos with this thing and you really care about accurate colors, then a proper gray card is your friend. Especially if you experiment with different lights (like the ring light, or something different), then you can quickly recalibrate.
What you say is obviously correct but I feel it's not so critical for inspecting a PCB! The scope is in auto-mode and I feel it's doing well. Sometimes my light source has a different colour temperature so that automatic feature is useful! Thanks for your comment!
To all my viewers: thanks to @wrzone (see thread below) I was able to find out the actual CMOS sensor used on this microscope. I disassembled the small CMOS PCB from the chassis and found that it's a Sony IMX334 which is apparently a better sensor than the 377. Why the microscope outputs 24Mpx images I am not sure - but I guess it's a software feature.
Tony, I don't know if maybe anyone else (or everyone) already suggested you to turn your stand opposite way ... right now the horizontal arm is a level - under the microscope holder ... If you assemble the stand so the arm and the microscope holder are above, then they are not going to be on your way. You will be able to solder without impacting with the stand(arm) and the stand will be able to go much lower than now (if needed). You have high enough vertical stand and from my experience you will never need to take your microscope so high ... definitely turn the horizontal assembly opposite way! Another thing to suggest is: The scope is at your right hand and it is on your way - I can see that ... if you mount the vertical stand most deep at your desk (longest from you), then it will be away from your hands and you are going to able to put the entire microscope away from you either at the left or at thee right (or use it in a much wider area). By the way I am using my microscope this way (I explained you) but I have my very heavy metal base ... but turned opposite way (even more away from you) - It is so heavy that even in this position it holds this very long armed construction absolutely stable on my desk. The advantage is that you can actually remove the microscope easily, when you need the entire desk - sometimes I repair huge Audio mixers (desks), then I need even an extension on my desk :-) Otherwise, thanks for the review of this SONY device - I am sure it will be useful for people who want to know details about it.
After watching this, i also removed the base ( the metal base is a pain ) and threaded a 5mm acrylic with M10 + some wood and bolt it to the side of the table like yours, thanks for the idea !!!!!
@ROKKO - I can't find your comment so I will just make a new post. My IMX334 camera was purchased from RISING CAM and is the RT5109. It's the newer version? with the IMX334. Before the camera used the IMX226 from what other people were saying. It now comes with the IMX334 and cost around $400-500 depending on where you look. From what I have seen the IMX226 is only able to output 4K @30 FPS but the one I use in my shop with the IMX334 indeed does output 4K 60 fps without all the frame interpolation un-like some of these other cheaper cameras. I originally purchased it because it claimed 4k 60 but I assumed it wouldn't be that great but 1080p 60 would be 100 % if they lied. This is one of the only vendors who actually isn't lying about the HDMI Preview frame rate and looks amazing when I record in OBS through my capture card. I have this camera connected to a 4K 55" TV also and I'm super happy with it. LAPSUN has been lying about the IMX290 camera for many years and it appears they still are when you go look them up.
I also really like the IMX291 camera from Amscope. I only paid 130$ with a coupon code and is very similar to the IMX290. It doesn't have a bunch of features but you can fine tune everything you need right there on the camera. I was shocked when I got it though. I wish had purchased that one years ago. It used USB C for power and has a HDR feature. Not the WDR which kills frame rate. The auto settings are not good on the camera but when you turn everything off and manually tune it you can get a crystal clear image and it does output 1080p 60 fps without an issue. The only time I've ever made the camera lag was when max brightness is up to 10 causes it to freak out. I wish it had a regular remote but they do offer a wired remote. It's a great starter camera and really make you learn how to fine turn the video quality which has helped me with other cams.
@@shiftctrlhack I'm looking for sub 200$ camera and my main struggle is lack of detailed description for Eakins and HAYEAR cameras plus sellers barely give any answers when I ask them something. For example that Eakins IMX334 for 170$ that I want has HDMI and USB 3.0 output but seller says he does not know if it supports UVC protocol over USB, tho few other Eakins IMX334 models have UVC support in their description. Same with HAYEAR IMX334 for 75$, it has only USB 3.0 output but description says it uses USB 2.0 protocol, tho listed outputs are 4k@25fps, 2k@45fps, 1080p and lower @60fps, that is not possible with USB 2.0 unless MJPEG compression has very low bitrate. Another thing with only USB output cameras is that I don't know how high is video delay, because HDMI for sure is much lower and USB delay depends on FPGA MJPEG codec optimization...
@@shiftctrlhack Yeah IMX334 sensor is great, there is aslo it's successor IMX678 that is made with STARVIS 2 technology (IMX334 is STARVIS, and in my opinion IMX290 is worse compared to IMX334 because it uses neither of these techs developed for better light absorption and wider HDR range) it's same sensor size 1/1.8" and resolution 8MP but has much higher light sensitivity and HDR range compared to IMX334, if you download datasheet for IMX678 you can see photo comparisons with IMX334 on the last page (because of high sensitivity it used in astro cameras ZWO ASI678MC). Also there are 8MP 1/1.2" sensors IMX485 (STARVIS) and IMX585 (STARVIS 2), both used in microscope and astro cameras and have almost same price as IMX678 cameras (nevertheless IMX678 is worse because of 1/1.8" sensor size with same resolution) and that price is much higher than IMX334 (300-400-500$ vs 75-170-300$) because of there are only 1-2 camera models with them and they can hike price a lot (there is one IMX678 developer module for sub 100$ with HDMI and USB2.0 output, description says it outputs MJPEG at 30 fps in all resolutions, but nothing about HDMI fps).
@@rokko1337 Ya its super tough finding the right camera with the real components. To be honest If I had to choose one camera. The IMX290 from 6 years ago from EAKINS when they did sell the real IMX290 camera was the best quality video through HDMI that I have ever seen. The ones that people sell now are not the real deal. The DOL and back- illuminated technology really gave it the edge when it comes to low light with an extremely great picture. It is capable of 1080p 120 FPS so when EAKINS had it setup for 60 FPS it was smooth and had 0 issues. Good luck and let me know if you decide to purchase a camera. Report back to us on here. I'm always looking for a better quality camera for my repair shop.
This is very useful information, I had been looking at microscopes as well but the range of options is very overwhelming, it's good to see your set up.
Thank you for this video, after shopping around for a microscope/camera that has all these features and not costing like £700 I think this is a good entry point without sacrificing quality.
Well I nearly bought an Andonstar AD246S-P from Amazon for £148 but the reviews all said the stand was poorly constructed. Seeing what you have done here was an inspiration. I need stability, and I already have a monitor on my work bench. Also I do not need 4000x magnification so will order the 180x lens. Much obliged.
You are very welcome! It seems that 180x and 0.5 Barlow is the sweet spot. I cannot guarantee as I never tested it myself but I think Dave @eevblog tested one and he was happy! :)
I love it. I thought I wouldn't use it so much but it's become an important tool in my shop - and for the videos too! Quality is excellent and I love the DIY stand: the microscope is always there and I just need to plug the USB cable to turn it on and swing it around, done. I power it from my laptop so I can decide to watch it on the monitor or on OBS. I do feel the DIY stand was critical for the tool: I would probably not use it as often if it was a chunky metal stand sitting on a top shelf with all the cables disconnected. Only thing I might not like is the ring light which reflects on shiny solder affecting the overall picture but I think it's a necessary evil. An adjustable goose-neck LED light might be an alternative here maybe.
@@mrv4757 yes i made a follow up video about that. The 0.75x is always attached and works well for me! Lapsun 4K Microscope - Sony IMX377 (?) - Follow up and 0.75x Barlow lens test ruclips.net/video/YAdUFEa3CAY/видео.html
What is the resolution of the video signal of the camera to the HDMI output? 1080P, 2K or more? The quality of the digital zoom up to 4x should not drop with a 4K matrix. If the digital zoom crop the image from the matrix, then you can successfully use it. Have you checked it out?
I never considered that, thanks. The resolution and framerate should be 4K 60Hz but we've discovered that it's not actually 60Hz, it's 30hz doubled internally... So it's a good product, I still like it, but always take the specs with a pinch of salt :)
About the barlow lens, did you try to increase the distance from the lens to the camera? I have used microscopes for PCB work for a long time. I would recommend a single light source at 10 o'clock to see depth. A ring light gives a very flat view.
You are absolutely right. The ring light is for lazy people like me as you never have to reposition it and it's always out of the way :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Not sure if it's already been mentioned or that you have noticed what could be potentially used to raise the ring light to a more suitable location. Wether this is meant for the ring light I am not sure but definately worked better for me. You can see the screw hole ( assuming the other two are out of sight) between your thumb and firstfinger holding the lens at 3:14 . Thankyou for your vdeos. keep up the good work.
One push white balance button, I think, is like on old camcorders when you point a lens on a white wall or something is white, then push that button and then, according to current light, the camera will calibrate itself.
A zoom lens which shifts focus with zoom is much easier to design and less expensive to make. It is not a problem for still photography, just a bit slower.
The upper ring where the cam mounts can be adjusted a tiny bit up/down on mine (180x) to sometimes reduce the focus-shift. (If yours is not perfectly adjusted.) My barlow is attached on the bottom though (first surface) which allows the ringlight to be higher than that surface. It also protects the first element in lens from solder spatter and allows me to screw it on/off without taking camera off.
Agree, a perfect zoom is about impossible to make due to the manufacturing tolerances required, especially going from low mag to high mag. Even high end stereo microscopes like Wild require a bit of refocusing.
@@tony359 thank you, i harassed the AliExpress sellers about that type of camera and i found nothing Lol, i found only the HAYEAR having some decent hardware comparing to the prices, and the RISINGCAM brand has some good quality cameras but the prices are higher.
With regards to the barlow lens distance issue. Why not build an extension for your base that raises the entire system up to the proper operation range for it? /it could be maid out of an addition tube or wooden plates. Another option is to simply get a longer pipe that covers the whole range and a proper pipe clamp.
Look at the aspect ratio too, 4:0 v ~16:9, 12 Mpix v 9 Mpix max respectively. You can test this data by taking photos in various modes and checking the resultant filesizes etc. Perhaps its a factor of aspect ratio rather than colour model / filtering, though RGB v CMYG the later producing more data.
Can you please tell me where I can find the aluminum stand because I am looking everywhere on ebay I couldnt find it if you can share me the link. Thank you
Doesn't the lens have an aperture ring? If so then one might be able to get more depth of field by closing down the aperture, and either increasing the gain ( potentially adding more noise) or increasing the light. That said one might start experiencing diffraction issues if the aperture has to be closed to much, and at the zoom factor it's at the amount the aperture might not deepen the focus plane all that much, but it's worth exploring.
Hello - no, there is no aperture ring. Those lenses are cheap, I suspect that there is not much that can be gained! :) But it could be interesting to test!
Place a threaded insert into the desktop so that it is slightly below the surface. You can put a screw in it when not using the scope or remove it and screw a piece of all thread into the insert and then screw your upright tube on to the all thread.
@@tony359 thanks for the reply, I was about to buy it from LAPSUS, then I chose the top range that only they have, the big black one with Sony IMX385 V2 WDR sensor, with HDR wireless mouse, seen here on RUclips from another colleague, who is really great, you see everything in another dimension, if I'm not mistaken, this Sony IMX385 V2 sensor, still today is the best of all, now the price is Also dropped by how many nor are they coming all over the world, before it was too expensive... Now it's coming, let's see how it will be live. 😉👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
@@hitechmaster69 Amazing! Did you watch my video? It didn't have a 377 as advertised. For a "cheap" microscope it's ok, the actual chip is a 334 which is as good or even better than the 377 but if you paid a premium for the 385 V2, I would definitely make sure it has it inside when you receive it! Which can be tricky as you can't say you've opened it to check it :)
I watched you video again, and you're absolutely right when you're saying in the intro, that choosing the right camera to buy is not an easy job. There are some many offerings and 1001 suppliers. The specs are not always very detailed. That is why such an detailed independent video is very helpful. I also like to buy a camera and currently I have my eyes on hayear HY6210. I think it is a very smilar camera like yours. It has the same connections and buttons. No separate power connections I'm wondering if it possible to use usb storage instead of the microSD card? Maybe by attaching an usb hub on the usbc port. did you ever try that? Also you mentioned that the usb output is limited to refreshrate 1920x1080/30. For me hdmi is more important and that is 1920x1080/60. But Hayear also has the HY6110 which has usbc type 3 and 1920x1080/60 usb output. So maybe the usbc3 port allows higher transfer or maybe the cpu is faster? It is also € 35 more expensive. Both have IMX334 although some listings show IMX678 but that is not correct I guess. On the hayear site I also see IMX334 for these 2. Did you considered hayear in your search?
Apparently the video output is always 30hz - when it says 60hz, it's 30hz "doubled" so each frame is sent twice to the display. Don't overthink too much when you're browsing these scopes from China (no disrespect intended!), most of the specs are fake or "inflated" unfortunately. I'm still happy with what I have though and I still recommend it. Thanks for watching!
they don't waste money on branding and packaging. that's what drives up the cost in the states. for the same product twice the price but hey u get a fancy box lol
it's called flux and it's pretty much a must when soldering. It prevents the solder from oxidising. When solder oxidises, it won't "flow". If you are soldering, you must use flux! :) Thanks for watching!
I wouldn’t take these products as a reference in the optical engineering world 🙂 that said all the scopes I’ve seen around have a Barlow at the end. Maybe shouldn’t be called Barlow?
i purchased the same camera recently. The sensor is imx334 but mine is 24mp. I don't understand why, since imx334 should be 8mp. I guess it is due to interpolation in the firmware.
Hi Leo - indeed I did decide to dismantle mine a bit more and it’s an IMX334 as well. I suppose the software is upscaling indeed. I guess the firmware is being used on several different products. In the end what matters is that we were promised an 8Mpx sensor and we got an 8Mpx sensor of good quality from Sony. Still, not the most professional attitude. I wouldn’t buy a more expensive one from them if it’s a CMOS Lotto! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 nevertheless, I'm quite happy with it due to the price is certainly lower than other imx334 based camera. Imx334 is in the STARVIS series which good at low light, it is comparable with my imx290 maybe a bit better. I do agree with you, the manufacturer is inconsistent and lack of data. However, again considering the price I can't complaint too much.
@@tony359 I mean, imx334 is bit better in several aspects considering its sensor size is smaller than imx290, of course overall imx290 still the winner.
Great review. I wish I had enough space on my desk to set up it like you. But I'm doing repairs and Arduino stuff only occasionally and I need to tuck the scope away often. So, I guess, I'll go for Andonstar AD246S-M. Still, I wish it had a desk edge clamp instead of the small base. I will see if I can invent a mod with a desk clamp for it, similar to what you did.
Hi Tony I watched this video of yours. I am a fan of digitizing 8/super 8 films and I also use Chinese cameras and enlargement lenses. I have exactly the 180x you show in your video. However, I have never been very lucky in choosing the camera (all with Sony IMX sensor) because all of them (even imx377) when connected to the USB port, transmit a purple-pink color with shades of green. This happens both with a bare sensor and with any lens I use. If I frame a white sheet, it doesn't display white but everything pink. After many useless purchases I finally found the first and only sensor that doesn't have that problem: the IMX317 4K. My question is: why does this happen? Because your imx377 transmits perfect colors and the same setup as mine, right? How can I solve it? Thank you!
Hi - no, I never had that issue. I do not use the manufacturer's software, I use OBS. The device is seen as a camera so you can configure it under OBS with no need for drivers or special tools, it just works. What you describe sounds like the incorrect colour space. Mine works under OBS with everything "default" but there is an option to change the colour space. The microscope menu has some resolution options - the menu is not available when USB is plugged in though. One thing, if you plug the microscope while OBS is working, it won't work. You have either to restart OBS or you can "disable" and then "enable" the device inside OBS. I really don't think yours is a sensor issue, more a connectivity/software issue. Unlikely, but also try a different USB cable. Good luck!
I bought a Eakins trinoqular about 2 years ago. I can't get used to looking down the scope(i don't have binocular vision. I prefer the HDMI. Wish I saw this first as it would be slightly cheaper. I would mount it to a monitor arm with a 3d printed Vesa mount. I may sell my scope and get a Lapsun . Great video. Thanks
Same experience here. I once worked for a few hours in a place where they had a Nikon scope. I just couldn't use it. First, the eyepieces were 10x and it was like looking through a pinhole. Second, I couldn't get used to that massive thing in the way!
After fiasco with Eakins IMX334 4k@30 1080p@60 fps (it has actually much better sensor IMX678, but it is only 30 fps at 1080p) I'm considering to buy this or another one (RF4 4KC1) with smaller sensor (visually from photos and review video where they show sensor on camera it's IMX415 or IMX715). Does your camera really provide 1080p@60 fps over HDMI? Both of your videos are only 30 fps so I cannot check visually through stepping frame by frame. I've seen 10th of 60 fps videos with cameras that claimed to be 1080p@60 fps and almost all of them in reality provide only 30 fps (and some of them, like Kaisi in metallic collor with red buttons, do not even provide 4K, toggling it in the menu does nothing, so it is ~100$ for 1080p@30fps lol), when frame stepping it takes 2 frames to refresh the image on the monitor connected over HDMI, and those few with real 1080p@60 fps looks really smooth even without frame stepping... P.S. Most of these cameras when connected both to HDMI and USB (like in your video) will provide the lowest FPS to both outputs, so if HDMI is 60 fps, but USB is 30 fps max, it will provide only 30 fps over HDMI in this case.
I can check for you. I never felt it was an issue but I never checked myself. How can I check on a monitor though, if the monitor reports 60fps but the scope is doubling 30? I do have a capture device, should be able to do 60fps. I can also check on a 4K TV if it's actually doing 4K, I never bothered as my tired monitor is just 1080! :)
@@tony359 That would be great. For 60 fps the easiest way is to film the monitor with 60 fps smartphone or video camera while moving a board under the microscope. Capturing is probably also a way to go, but only if it for sure can capture in 60 fps. 4K would also be a nice check just to be sure camera can provide it.
@@tony359It's ok, I'm not pressuring, just wanted to remind, so take your time. I'm also still researching for other less popular models to find out more information about their real specs.
Does this microscope have the sensor model noted on the PCB? I realize there was some confusion between IMX337 and IMX377, but if you look at this video at this time stamp, you may be able to check your PCB for sensor model: ruclips.net/video/1jV7Qzr3OQ0/видео.html I'd be curious if yours shows IMX337 or maybe even an older model?
Hello, one of my viewer suggested that already and indeed it’s an IMX334 (at least that’s what the PCB says). Still doesn’t explain the picture resolution though. I pinned that comment somewhere! I hope this helps!
Hi Tony, great video! I'm looking for a microscope that I can use to view life in pond samples. I'm not able to use a compound microscope, nor scopes with eyepieces to view through, so I wonder if something like this can get close enough to the water sample (between 1-1.5 cm) to focus on the little things living in the water. I had one that allowed me to view, but the camera was awful and the videos were very blurry - it was a camera issue - although the pictures were really good. Would appreciate your opinion if you have a moment. Much thanks!
I'm afraid I am not experienced when it comes to that. That said, I am not sure I understand the requirement: any microscope would focus at a fixed distance. This Lapsun with the 120x lens focusses at around 10cm, you just need to have your sample at around 10cm distance. If a different lens focusses at 5cm, then you need your sample at around 5cm. Am I missing something? These scopes are available with many different lenses, including ones with much higher magnification. The downside could be - I am not sure - the depth of field which might become very very shallow! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Thanks! I had a stereo microscope (industrial) which, when close enough to the slide, was unable to raise up high enough to focus. I think I didn't look at the cm/mm requirements prior to purchase, for that particular lens. Anyway, have a Happy New Year, and thanks again for your input.
Happy new year too! My curiosity is: why do you need to have it so close to the slide? If the scope focusses at - say - 10cm, why would you need it to be closer than that?
@@tony359 Well. Good question! My understanding is that the closer to the slide, the more magnification with clarity using fine focus. Bear with me, many many gaps in my current knowledge. With the microscope I mentioned above, I was at about 1cm and the pond life looked pretty close up and personal. Amoeba, for example is about 250 microns. Paramecium at about 10 microns. Bacteria, about 3 microns.I would love to get clear pix at those lower levels, if it's possible, without a compound microscope.
I think there might be different type of lenses around. The fixed zoom would work as you say: you get closer to the object to increase magnification and turn a knob to focus. The Lapsun's has a zoom ring on it. So it's fixed distance. If the focussing distance is, say, 10cm, that's it, you cannot take it to 5cm or you wouldn't be able to focus. The magnification is adjusted by the zoom ring on it, THEN you adjust the distance of the whole lens to focus it. But it's about 1cm difference between maximum and minimum magnification. I hope this helps!
well my comment about Lapsun is in the video! :) The 290 is an expensive one, personally I would not buy it from a company who does not seem to know what they install in their products I'm afraid. The 307 - AKA 337 - AKA 334 is "fine" assuming you're getting what I received. Others viewers seem to be very happy with it.
I’m confident there are ways to determine what sensor is inside. There’s also probably a serial access somewhere. For now I’d rather not open it up again as it’s brand new 🙂 and, honestly, the picture quality is good to me! But thanks for mentioning and for watching!
Hi Tony 359. Thank you for sharing and great video! I just got the same camera today.. Can you tell me what formating the micro card should be. I get a card erro when i try record. Best regards Danni 🇩🇰
Hey Danni - thanks for watching! To be honest I never use the SD card as it's so inconvenient to insert and remove. I use OBS instead. However I just tried for you and the SD card was functioning normally after being formatted with default parameters by Windows 10. It's an 8GB sd card. I hope this helps. PS: make sure you are actually inserting the card in the slot, if you watched the video you see it's very easy to just misalign it.
@@tony359 Thank you! The SD card was corrupted. I installed a new one. it works great! The card flew out when i press my nail in. lol. It works fine with concentration. Yes i saw your video and was really helpful! 😀👍
Can you buy this camera by itself? And will it fit in the camera port of a normal microscope? At $145, I might buy the whole kit just to get the camera...
Depth of field is an intrinsic property of an optical system - it is based on the numerical aperture (N.A.) of the lens. The larger the N.A. the shallower the depth of field. Resolution is also directly proportional to N.A. Therefore, the higher the resolution the shallower the depth of field. Depth of field is a feature, not a defect. Many people think that depth of field is an independent attribute of an optical device. In fact, for perfect optical systems, it is what it is. Ironically, imperfect optical systems generally have greater perceived depth of field than perfect systems, especially if spherical aberration is the imperfection. But that is only because the imperfect systems have a soft mushy focal region - a perfect system "snaps" to focus.
I didn't mean to tag it as a defect, only mention that it's there and you might need to fiddle with the focus knob more than you'd want! Thanks for watching!
I didn't mean to say you did, just the bloviating optical engineer talking. I think you did a fine job of describing what you saw. I brought the subject back up because there is this idea in the user world that depth of field is somehow a quality feature. It looks like your system has very good optical performance. Makes me think of changing from my stereomicroscope to a camera system. Just a suggestion on the sensor question - have you examined the meta data in the image files? IME the sensor is usually listed there. I use imageJ for simple image examination and processing. @@tony359
the quality of the optics is indeed one of the reasons I got this one. I tried a high quality Nikon stereo microscope. It had 10x eyepieces. I couldn't use it. I could only see through it when my eyeballs were perfectly aligned with a very very narrow section of the eyepieces otherwise the view would be blocked. Also, the microscope is big and in the way. I heard those 10x have that defect but my first impression was not great. I really don't have issues watching a monitor while I am soldering... But I am used to that! :)
you can look at a 4k feed with a 1080 monitor you will have more pixels and need to zoom in to the correct level - issue could pop up format wize - even tho i keep fixing my system the 10 bit video always returns to a green/purple
I've done some tests, my 4K TV reports 4K but whether that is actual 4K or scaled FHD, nobody knows. For example it turns out that when the scope says 60Hz, it's actually 30Hz where each frame is sent twice :) Bottom line: don't expect too much from these items :) Thanks for watching!
I think the chinese stuff is great lets you dip your toes without going all the way I dont like these people when they run down the chinese gear or the other angle is to call them a scam or counterfeit thanks for the vid @@tony359
Apparently it's not. I never really thought about that as I feel that 30FPS is plenty for electronics. But a viewer asked me to check and I could only get 60FPS but they actually repeat the frames twice to get to 60FPS! Typical! Your display will say 60 but it's actually 30. This is unless I made a mistake somewhere but I could not get "true" 60FPS out of it. Again, I really don't think it's necessary for electronics.
The ones I got don't have a thread on one end so they can only go at the end of the lens. That said, I am not an optical engineer :) Thanks for watching!
I've never tried one but I'm not a fan of "automations". When using a scope the depth of field is usually very narrow - I often tweak the focus manually to focus the PCB -OR- the top of a small SMD component. With Autofocus I'd need to do manual focus pretty often I think so... No, I don't think so :) Thanks for watching!
I bought a Sony 55 megapixel HDMI digital microscope camera 260x zoom it came with no software and I'm trying to locate software and drivers cuz when I plug it into the USB it's not even recognizing any help would be appreciated thanks in advance...
My microscope doesn’t need software, it’s automatically detected by windows 10 and can be used in OBS. It came with software but I didn’t test it. When you say ‘it’s not recognised’, do you see it under your device manager somehow, maybe with a question mark? Does the computer make the ‘usb plugged in’ sound when plugged in? Did you contact your seller, is that a Lapsun?
@@tony359 yeah I figured it out I tried another laptop and it's working but I noticed like a 4 second delay so I'm probably going to run it HDMI more zapier thanks for getting back to me
@@no1be4me2 Yes, USB is for recording, not for actually using the microscope. That said... 4 seconds??? Mine shows a higher lag but not SECONDS! HDMI is 15ms I think, USB might be 50ms, cannot be seconds!
Thanks for video. If you moved the camera halfway up, having the 0.3x lens. Couldn't you get focus at that height? must be better, less solder fumes in lens, and not being in the way all the time. And still good magnification
@@tony359 OK thanks for reply. I thought you meant you couldn't focus at max distance. But good to know. I've spoken to some sellers who claims I need a 0.3x lens for 180x optic to be able to work at 10-40cm, but that doesn't sound correct after I've seen your video. Thanks for input
No unfortunately, the field of view is miniscule and the focus plane is very close to the lens so more or less useless with that lens! Thanks for your comment!
I got a 0.75x barlow, that raised the height a bit. I think a 180x + 0.5x Barlow would have been the sweet spot. But as it is now it is ok, I feel. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I just ordered the Sony IMX385 V2 1080P 60FPS HDMI from Lapsun for $235 US but not sure if the sensor will be any better than what you have here? It is very difficult to understand what sensor is best etc. For your camera, though It is a great picture and very doable for rework and electronics etc. I would be very happy with the camera you have for sure. thanks for the video
Yes, it's not great that you end up in this "sensor lottery". Hopefully whatever you receive is going to be good. Let us know how it goes and thanks for watching!
@@AK-ct7tw I received this A2 camera from Lapsun but it does not have an off on button so it is still in the box. I am actually thinking of selling it and buying the 485 from lapsun because it has a on off button. I did want to use this camera because then I could not sell it as new open box. It is supposedly the exact same as Northridge folks. I will let you know how the quality of the 485 goes.
@@jonnymakers9560 Be careful buying from Lapsun. They have been scamming the IMX290 cameras for years now. They say its the IMX290 but you get the terrible IMX185 or the terrible IMX307 instead. Sensor lottery but when it comes to the IMX290 listings they are both bad.
Hello, I might be wrong, but I think that this model is a IMX334 sensor ... some sellers on aliexpress indeed sells it indicating wrongly a IMX377 ... but I really do think that it is a IMX334 instead, here's why : - the IMX334 is a 8Mpixel (the IMX377 is a 12Mpixel following its datasheet) - the IMX334 has a pixel size of 2x2um ... - other sellers (won't give names ^^' ) sells it correctly with IMX334 mentioning Hope that helps some with this confusion ^^'
Hi - you're not wrong. I pinned a comment mentioning that one of my viewers said the same and I then decided to take a peek myself and the sensor PCB indeed says "IMX334" on it. Well guessed and thanks for watching!
Bueno yo temgo tiempo usando esa camamra y solo la apague un momento que tenia otra cámara para probarla en el micro , y luego qie la pongo ya me da imagen pero con poca luz
please excuse my question. You mention you had a long aftersales convosation with them. But the important part of that is what did they say in regards to you realising it isnt the right sensor? did they try and defend them selves or admit they have been very miss-leading? I mean if you pay for an imx sensor thats what you should get. not something else. Look forward to your reply
It's a very good question indeed. I discovered about the sensor some time after purchasing it. It's still an IMX, just not what they advertised. Given their unhelpfulness when I complained about the barlow lens - and given that I was happy with the quality of the image - I did not contact them again. I am currently still very happy with this microscope. This is why I said that I would not go with them for a more expensive sensor - or at least I would put some protections in place to make sure I can get a refund if it's not. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 fair enough. That would be a big issue for me. Buying something and getting something different. Like buying a Ferrari and finding out it’s got some lame V6 engine in it. Anything thing is if your going to review a 4k camera how come you didn’t get a 4k monitor to match? I mean they arnt a lot of money these days. Else you may as well of tested a 1080p camera as essentially that’s what you’ve done ;). I’ve been on the look out for an upgrade camera. More so an actual 4k. But really interested in picture quality compared to a decent 1080p variant. Hopefully one day you can do another video when you have a 4k monitor hooked up and see what it’s really made of 👌🏻
@@MrOrangeman18 I don't have a 4K screen and this channel is my hobby! In my opinion, in photography pixels are not everything. The optics are usually as - or more - important. I did not buy this microscope just because of the resolution. About the product, you made a good point: I did not buy a Ferrari :) I bought a Golf and I was sent a Focus. Still not good but the Focus is a good car too! Your point is valid though, I just did not contact them as I knew I had ZERO chances of getting anywhere :)
@@MrOrangeman18 If you want the #1 video - FPS / picture quality you will need to find super old stock of the IMX290 cameras. It has the best sensor technology and the low light clarity cant be beaten due to how the IMX290 sensor is designed. I have purchased about 5 camera's after my real IMX290 and none of them can compare. 3-4 years ago Eakins was selling this model but they went out of production and all listings anyone is selling has a different sensor. They claim IMX290 but you will receive the IMX307
By the way: Interesting to see some vignetting on the corners when using the zoom as a 120x. I do not see that on my 180x setup where the upper adapter is 0.5x (The zoom-lens is the same...)
yes that is not super great but not the end of the world. I've been thinking of asking Lapsun to send me a different adaptor, as you noticed the zoom-lens is the same, they just change the adaptor! :)
@@tony359 Mine is from them also, but a few years older. I ordered an extension to my stand that screws into the first rod as my rods were shorter. (Looks like the stock rod is longer now.) I find I get a super working height of 200mm with the 0.35x barlow and my FOV is about 46mm at minimum zoom and 6mm at max zoom. Keeps scope out of the solder-spatter and I do not bump it with my hands using the tweezers. For inspecting large boards it would be good to have a bit more FOV but since I mostly work on tiny high density boards 46mm can often fit entire board 😜
There are indeed many possibilities and that stand is really well made. The 180x with the 0.5x is probably the sweet spot. I overthought it a bit when I purchased it! As you say, magnification is important but also FOV.
Thanks for the video, I've been looking to upgrade my microscope camera and after seeing your video I decided to go for the same one. I just hope I get the IMX334 sensor and not 337. :)
Great! I have to say I don't regret getting one. I've been postponing this purchase for years as I thought I really didn't need one but I noticed I use it quite often. Hint: if you contact Lapsun directly, you can purchase directly from them at lower prices. I cannot vouch for them (and I am not affiliated to them in any ways!) but in the end the service was good and shipping was fast.
@@tony359 I ended up getting it through ebay just to be covered, I don't know if it's all the sensor confusion or they just don't know what they're selling but this camera seems to be quite under priced for what you get. It gives a fantastic picture, I'm not complaining that's for sure 😀 I bet the price will go up at some point when they figure out what sensor it actually has. 😆
@@games2replay ahahah - Well, happy days! To be fair, I am very happy with it too and it's a terrific tool in my shop. When I see others' online videos recorded with more expensive microscopes, I usually think "mine looks very similar" :) I'm really happy that my video helped you in the choice and - most importantly - that you're happy with the microscope! Thanks for letting me know!
I admit I only tried an optical scope for a few minutes - it was a good quality Nikon one - and I wasn't impressed. It's in the way! I prefer the monitor - but I only tried it for a few minutes! I heard good things about the Amscope indeed! It was on my list when I was looking for a scope.
I guess they purchased the sensors from them, I'm not sure but I don't think you need a license from Sony to build a microscope using one of their sensors. Can't be 100% sure though! Sony sensors are popular, they're a bit everywhere. Thanks for watching!
I've seen several cheap cameras and microscopes upscale images. E.g. they claim 1080p and it's really 480p upscaled 3x (sometimes 3.2x). I'm surprised you didn't zoom in and figure out the real resolution.
@@tony359 oof - haha no worries, thought maybe you remembered the package weight from the waybill or something...I'm trying to cut on shipping costs due to weight.
@@TheFaanie I can check on the footage is I can see the FedEx label - also from the tracking number. Bear with me. To save money honestly don’t buy the base for the microscope. I love my solution it’s so flexible and you don’t have that chunky metal base in the way all the time!
the whole kit is around 3KG. I suppose if you add up some wires, PSU, boxing and packing material the final box must have been just below 4KG. I hope this helps!
Thanks for making this video. Just FYI, I found an identical looking camera unit on t**b** and the spec says it has IMX334, which does have 2x2µm pixels at 4K resolution.
I really liked this review and was wondering if you had any plans on a follow up like after using it the past year does everything still work? and have you ever pointed it outside and recorded other things like scenery or use it as a webcam around the shop?
Thank you! Never thought about a follow up - I can tell you I still love it though! And.. No, never though of using it in a different way, wouldn't I need a different lens for that? Thanks for the idea and for watching!
Год назад
@@tony359 idk depends how far the focus can be adjusted. maybe some of the tube sections can be removed so its not a macro lens anymore.
Thank you for this video it was really helpful. I bought the same model directly from Lapsun today, i can't wait to try it. I hope it has an Imx377 sensor as advertised. If not, it's your fault 😂😂
You missed the pinned comment! :) It's an IMX334 (A viewer mentioned and I decided to check mine too!). I think Lapsun also changed the advert - but not the pictures which still say 377 o 337 I can't remember. The bottom line is that I really like it. I think it outperforms most of the scopes I see being used online. The picture is nice and "natural". Make sure you don't use digital zoom and don't use any digital "enhancement". Let me know how you find it - and what you get! :) And thanks!
@@tony359 I jumped the gun, the issue with the big gap is one I don't know about, but the flush design I've seen a bunch of times. It is a bit annoying sometimes!
I bought the RT5109 model in 2021. Sony IMX226 sensor ( 1/1.7) is written on the manual. Today, the same Model changed the sensor into Sony IMX334 sensor (1/1.8). At that time, IMX334 was about $90 cheaper than IMX226, and Panasonic sensors were about $200 cheaper. I called the seller (RisingCam) on the phone prior to making the order. He assured me that IMX226 sensor is installed. Now, I'm in high doubt. How could I figure out the model of sensor installed?
If you open it up, on my item the model is written on the PCB which has the sensor on it. It’s behind the ribbon cable, you might need to remove it for a moment (there’s a connector). Check out the pinned comment on the video, one of my viewers helped me finding out and mine is a IMX334. Let me know and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 The pinned comment either no longer exists or I can't see it for some reason. I bought a pretty much identical camera from Eakins, although they advertise it as a imx334, but I am not sure what I am looking for. Can you be more specific about what you saw written that confirmed the sensor? Also I think a lot of the USB lag is OBS. I downloaded the companion software "S-EYE" and the latency was pretty much identical to HDMI. Granted the only place I could actually find to download it was the Hayear website. It all seemed super shady and probably infected my PC with chinese government spyware or something. But I wanted to be able to test out all the camera settings and some of them can only be accessed via the app. Granted, initial impressions are it probably isn't worth the hassle.
I purchased the RISING CAM RT5109 this year and my camera does have the IMX334 sensor. It really does have great video quality and a true 60 FPS HDMI preview for both 1080 & 4K. I know there were come changes from 2021 to now 2022/2023 models of the RT5109 which did improve them from prior revision related to CPU/MEM used in conjunction with the sensor. I have purchased a few other camera from Lapsun and Eakins that claimed IMX334 but the video quality was terrible and the FPS were interpolated ( fake frames pretty much ) to get the " 60 FPS preview ". Lapsun was trying to sell fake IMX290 cameras and were really using a crappy IMX307 / IMX185 sensors. I would know because I purchased 2) IMX290 cameras and they did not have the correct sensor. I did it as a test to see if they were scamming. I used 2 accounts and 2 different listing's. They both were different with the 2 sensors mentioned above. Lapsun will no longer have my business. 3-4 years ago Eakins was selling the real IMX290 camera's and I was lucky enough to purchased 2 of them before they stopped manufacturing them. Even North Ridge Fix got scammed. All his cameras that he was selling on his site were suppose to be IMX290 but he only received IMX307's which cost about 1/3rd the price. NRF never addressed the issue but many of his customers did open the cameras up and saw the IMX307 label. Now he is selling the IMX385 and it does appear that model is using the correct sensor. No way near as good as the IMX290 but 1000X better than the IMX307's.
@@shiftctrlhack would you consider the MX 334 or IMX377 sensor most comparable to the IMX290? Which sensor would you consider top shelf as far as picture quality available to buy today?
There are many optics available for the "C mount" scopes. The same seller has a 720x lens available. Mind you, the lens is the same, they change the adaptor. My 120x has a 0.35x adaptor. the 720x has a 2x adaptor. How well it would work I do not know - and the lens becomes very long! At that magnification vibrations become an issue. My use case is electronics I'm afraid! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I completely understand that transistors and resistors populate your domain, but it would still be very cool to look at some organic life forms 🙂 Thanks for the info on your setup and the other scope option.
You should be able to adjust the aperture to change depth-of-field. With all that light, you might be able to get decent depth-of-field even with somewhat closeup pics. Keep in mind that with a very small aperture (high f/number), you'll get diffraction, meaning less sharp images. This isn't a camera thing, it's just optics and thust physics :)
@@tony359 ok. I am sorry you got into messy choices. But your point being suppliers did not package a working solution for you. That's correct and it's not your fault. The reality is that most brands are not manufacturers. They just rebrand bits and pieces into a package they don't even test. Your channel is well structured and good quality. I wish you all the best as it does take much effort to produce material for any channel. Thank you and be blessed.
@@naidol Opinions are always welcome. I did choose the 120X as from all the video I watched, the 180x did not seem to give enough FOV - and when I bought the microscope I did not find a video explaining that an 180x + 0.5 barlow was the sweet spot. Maybe I missed it - but I did bother to watch them! :) On the seller, I had an extensive conversation about the product before purchasing. I asked recommendation, they were aware of what use it was for. I bought everything in one go - and the kit they sold me was not functional. I can understand they might have missed that but I would have expected a better response to that. Not the end of the world, maybe I am used to customer service around here, I just mentioned as it felt relevant. Thanks for your kind words about content creation! :)
An old blurry memory in head whispered something about a simple small metal tube (~2-5mm) between the camera and the lens, to get the closest focus point closer to the the lens. Wasnt it used in macro photography? Maybe this could be a solution for you, but maybe im totally wrong and my brain is just a laundry tumbler XD
Optics is a beautiful world. Who knows how those "lens" are engineered. Probably copied by something else by someone who doesn't know much about them! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 googled a bit, and found them. they are called macro rings or macro extension tubes. If you have no autofocus or other electrical connection from the camera to the lens, those are simple metal tubes. you should get one for less than 20 bucks and then you can use your x0.3 adapter without hanging you camera to the ceiling ;)
Thanks for that - I think it's what they're doing at Lapsun, if you check the listing the 120x, 180x ecc all have the same "zoom lens" and the "adaptor" at the top changes which is likely as you say an empty tube. In fact I wanted to ask them if I could have just the adaptor for the 180x.
IMO, the Barlow lens issue is also your fault. Even though they offered it with the bundle, you should have done your own research on what it actually does and decide if it suits your needs. From the Wikipedia article on Barlow Lenses: Microscope use In microscopy the Barlow lens is used to increase working distance and decrease magnification. The lenses are "objective lenses" that are mounted in front of the microscope's last objective element. Barlow lenses for microscopes can be found with magnifications ranging from 0.3× to 2×. Some standard lenses are 2×, which decreases the working distance by half and doubles the magnification, 0.75× (3/4×), which increases the working distance by 4/3× (1.33×) and decreases the magnification by 0.75×, and a 0.5× Barlow doubles the working distance and halves the magnification. You could have saved yourself and the seller a lot of trouble with a single internet search. In your case, a 0.5x lens would have been more than enough.
Sure but in my opinion this is where the sales representative comes into play. If I go online and just buy stuff, then I do my own research. But If I ask for advice and the representative does not mention that the kit I discussed with them won't work out of the box, allow me to pass some of the responsibility on to the seller! :) To clarify, the kit was purchased and discussed over email, I did not just go on their website and clicked on things! :) That said, it was not much money so not the end of the world. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Ah, I see now. I agree, it's partially the seller's fault too. Since it was recommended by the salesperson and they didn't do their due diligence to make sure everything works well together.
Hi, I see that you had spend some time talking to this provider. You’re good I see. Looking on eBay I find pricing around 80 dls, and you comment than you’ve made your video around pandemic time! That can explain price drop. I’m on a portable ultrasound for medical purposes. I see that price is around 2k, but I believe that with good experience on buying it should be more affordable. Let me know if you’re available for help me, I can help you doing a video with the equipment. Thanks in advance for your help.
My thoughts regarding the extra lens, it's expected if you buy something online the seller should state what it is and its capabilities as best as possible within its intended use. Many online Chinese sellers are either lazy or try to be smart because if you know it's not a good fit you won't buy, but if you take the risk that's their gain. So I would judge based on what vibe I'm getting. In this case what's the focus limits so if they never stated that then they left it up to interpretation and they should pay the return fee and learn lesson next time. If they were too lazy to add this information I would have pushed. Online customer rights are different because you don't have a chance to inspect a product. From doing this review you also made them money, but I guess you never mentioned, which was respectful of you.
I wasn't expecting this video to be so successful :) In the end it's a good product - what happened with customer service is normal when you buy from China so it's just a warning that those things can happen. Thanks for your feedback!
@tony359 well that's my take on that. Anyway, I've been holding out buying such a microscope due to the cost and still undecided on what to get so these reviews are useful.
I find it ok, it's barely noticeable - clearly it can be subjective. Via USB it is unacceptable indeed - but that is for recording only! Thank you for watching!
forgive me if I'm wrong but I don't believe sony have any fabs so it can't be a sony sensor. open old sony gear and half the components are branded sanyo. looks like Chinese product rebranded to me
Well, whether Sony have this manufactured by someone else I do not know but Sony CMOS sensors are real! :) www.1stvision.com/cameras/sensor_specs/IMX334.pdf - Thanks for watching!
Thankyou bro I'll have a look myself now. Maybe they do have fabs or maybe they hire them out. I know that the business of consumer electronics is vastly removed from the actual fab labs now mostly. TSMC for example are at the cutting edge and I can't name one product they sell to the end user directly
@@tony359 se sei fortunato si. Io qua ne ho uno con un diametro di 3.5cm. Penso che se cerchi su ebay puoi trovare anche solo il morsetto per la scrivania.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video 😊👍🏼
Just one little side note... The depth of field _always_ changes with the magnification, that is not a question of price nor quality of the lens. It's an optical principle!
When using the white balance one push button, you are supposed to put a neutral gray card below the camera. Not something white like an A4 printer paper sheet, because it can be overexposed; white balancing should really be done on a lower brightness level. For example a Caruba DGC-1 gray card, or the gray card in a Colorchecker Passport will do. I know a perfect white balance is not important for this application, but if you make youtube videos with this thing and you really care about accurate colors, then a proper gray card is your friend. Especially if you experiment with different lights (like the ring light, or something different), then you can quickly recalibrate.
What you say is obviously correct but I feel it's not so critical for inspecting a PCB! The scope is in auto-mode and I feel it's doing well. Sometimes my light source has a different colour temperature so that automatic feature is useful! Thanks for your comment!
To all my viewers: thanks to @wrzone (see thread below) I was able to find out the actual CMOS sensor used on this microscope. I disassembled the small CMOS PCB from the chassis and found that it's a Sony IMX334 which is apparently a better sensor than the 377. Why the microscope outputs 24Mpx images I am not sure - but I guess it's a software feature.
Ok thanks
In 28:23 you show it outputing 24MP images
@@Snowpiercer2 sorry, typo! I also show 24Mpix on that same frame! Thanks for mentioning.
Tony, I don't know if maybe anyone else (or everyone) already suggested you to turn your stand opposite way ... right now the horizontal arm is a level - under the microscope holder ...
If you assemble the stand so the arm and the microscope holder are above, then they are not going to be on your way.
You will be able to solder without impacting with the stand(arm) and the stand will be able to go much lower than now (if needed). You have high enough vertical stand and from my experience you will never need to take your microscope so high ... definitely turn the horizontal assembly opposite way!
Another thing to suggest is: The scope is at your right hand and it is on your way - I can see that ... if you mount the vertical stand most deep at your desk (longest from you), then it will be away from your hands and you are going to able to put the entire microscope away from you either at the left or at thee right (or use it in a much wider area). By the way I am using my microscope this way (I explained you) but I have my very heavy metal base ... but turned opposite way (even more away from you) - It is so heavy that even in this position it holds this very long armed construction absolutely stable on my desk. The advantage is that you can actually remove the microscope easily, when you need the entire desk - sometimes I repair huge Audio mixers (desks), then I need even an extension on my desk :-)
Otherwise, thanks for the review of this SONY device - I am sure it will be useful for people who want to know details about it.
Thanks for the suggestion, appreciated! I'll do some experiments!
After watching this, i also removed the base ( the metal base is a pain ) and threaded a 5mm acrylic with M10 + some wood and bolt it to the side of the table like yours, thanks for the idea !!!!!
Amazing, I'm so glad you found that useful! I'm still using it this way and it's great, always ready but also out of the way! :) Thanks for watching!
@ROKKO - I can't find your comment so I will just make a new post. My IMX334 camera was purchased from RISING CAM and is the RT5109. It's the newer version? with the IMX334. Before the camera used the IMX226 from what other people were saying. It now comes with the IMX334 and cost around $400-500 depending on where you look. From what I have seen the IMX226 is only able to output 4K @30 FPS but the one I use in my shop with the IMX334 indeed does output 4K 60 fps without all the frame interpolation un-like some of these other cheaper cameras. I originally purchased it because it claimed 4k 60 but I assumed it wouldn't be that great but 1080p 60 would be 100 % if they lied. This is one of the only vendors who actually isn't lying about the HDMI Preview frame rate and looks amazing when I record in OBS through my capture card. I have this camera connected to a 4K 55" TV also and I'm super happy with it. LAPSUN has been lying about the IMX290 camera for many years and it appears they still are when you go look them up.
I also really like the IMX291 camera from Amscope. I only paid 130$ with a coupon code and is very similar to the IMX290. It doesn't have a bunch of features but you can fine tune everything you need right there on the camera. I was shocked when I got it though. I wish had purchased that one years ago. It used USB C for power and has a HDR feature. Not the WDR which kills frame rate. The auto settings are not good on the camera but when you turn everything off and manually tune it you can get a crystal clear image and it does output 1080p 60 fps without an issue. The only time I've ever made the camera lag was when max brightness is up to 10 causes it to freak out. I wish it had a regular remote but they do offer a wired remote. It's a great starter camera and really make you learn how to fine turn the video quality which has helped me with other cams.
@@shiftctrlhack Thanks for response, looks like that comment was removed because I added links to cameras even tho with spaces in them...
@@shiftctrlhack I'm looking for sub 200$ camera and my main struggle is lack of detailed description for Eakins and HAYEAR cameras plus sellers barely give any answers when I ask them something. For example that Eakins IMX334 for 170$ that I want has HDMI and USB 3.0 output but seller says he does not know if it supports UVC protocol over USB, tho few other Eakins IMX334 models have UVC support in their description. Same with HAYEAR IMX334 for 75$, it has only USB 3.0 output but description says it uses USB 2.0 protocol, tho listed outputs are 4k@25fps, 2k@45fps, 1080p and lower @60fps, that is not possible with USB 2.0 unless MJPEG compression has very low bitrate. Another thing with only USB output cameras is that I don't know how high is video delay, because HDMI for sure is much lower and USB delay depends on FPGA MJPEG codec optimization...
@@shiftctrlhack Yeah IMX334 sensor is great, there is aslo it's successor IMX678 that is made with STARVIS 2 technology (IMX334 is STARVIS, and in my opinion IMX290 is worse compared to IMX334 because it uses neither of these techs developed for better light absorption and wider HDR range) it's same sensor size 1/1.8" and resolution 8MP but has much higher light sensitivity and HDR range compared to IMX334, if you download datasheet for IMX678 you can see photo comparisons with IMX334 on the last page (because of high sensitivity it used in astro cameras ZWO ASI678MC). Also there are 8MP 1/1.2" sensors IMX485 (STARVIS) and IMX585 (STARVIS 2), both used in microscope and astro cameras and have almost same price as IMX678 cameras (nevertheless IMX678 is worse because of 1/1.8" sensor size with same resolution) and that price is much higher than IMX334 (300-400-500$ vs 75-170-300$) because of there are only 1-2 camera models with them and they can hike price a lot (there is one IMX678 developer module for sub 100$ with HDMI and USB2.0 output, description says it outputs MJPEG at 30 fps in all resolutions, but nothing about HDMI fps).
@@rokko1337 Ya its super tough finding the right camera with the real components. To be honest If I had to choose one camera. The IMX290 from 6 years ago from EAKINS when they did sell the real IMX290 camera was the best quality video through HDMI that I have ever seen. The ones that people sell now are not the real deal. The DOL and back- illuminated technology really gave it the edge when it comes to low light with an extremely great picture. It is capable of 1080p 120 FPS so when EAKINS had it setup for 60 FPS it was smooth and had 0 issues. Good luck and let me know if you decide to purchase a camera. Report back to us on here. I'm always looking for a better quality camera for my repair shop.
Wow, what a fantastic review and all round full set up situation. Excellent continuous perspective.
Thank you, really glad you found it useful!
This is very useful information, I had been looking at microscopes as well but the range of options is very overwhelming, it's good to see your set up.
VERY overwhelming and they all look the same! :D
Glad my video was useful! I hope you get a good one! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video, after shopping around for a microscope/camera that has all these features and not costing like £700 I think this is a good entry point without sacrificing quality.
Glad the video was useful! There are indeed so many to choose from!
Well I nearly bought an Andonstar AD246S-P from Amazon for £148 but the reviews all said the stand was poorly constructed. Seeing what you have done here was an inspiration. I need stability, and I already have a monitor on my work bench. Also I do not need 4000x magnification so will order the 180x lens. Much obliged.
You are very welcome! It seems that 180x and 0.5 Barlow is the sweet spot. I cannot guarantee as I never tested it myself but I think Dave @eevblog tested one and he was happy! :)
Thanks. I might pull the trigger this product. Cheers!
how do you like it now you've got 4 months of experience working with this camera?
I love it. I thought I wouldn't use it so much but it's become an important tool in my shop - and for the videos too! Quality is excellent and I love the DIY stand: the microscope is always there and I just need to plug the USB cable to turn it on and swing it around, done. I power it from my laptop so I can decide to watch it on the monitor or on OBS. I do feel the DIY stand was critical for the tool: I would probably not use it as often if it was a chunky metal stand sitting on a top shelf with all the cables disconnected. Only thing I might not like is the ring light which reflects on shiny solder affecting the overall picture but I think it's a necessary evil. An adjustable goose-neck LED light might be an alternative here maybe.
@@tony359 did you get a 0.75 Barlow lens and does it work for you?
@@mrv4757 yes i made a follow up video about that. The 0.75x is always attached and works well for me!
Lapsun 4K Microscope - Sony IMX377 (?) - Follow up and 0.75x Barlow lens test
ruclips.net/video/YAdUFEa3CAY/видео.html
What is the resolution of the video signal of the camera to the HDMI output? 1080P, 2K or more? The quality of the digital zoom up to 4x should not drop with a 4K matrix. If the digital zoom crop the image from the matrix, then you can successfully use it. Have you checked it out?
I never considered that, thanks. The resolution and framerate should be 4K 60Hz but we've discovered that it's not actually 60Hz, it's 30hz doubled internally... So it's a good product, I still like it, but always take the specs with a pinch of salt :)
About the barlow lens, did you try to increase the distance from the lens to the camera?
I have used microscopes for PCB work for a long time. I would recommend a single light source at 10 o'clock to see depth. A ring light gives a very flat view.
You are absolutely right. The ring light is for lazy people like me as you never have to reposition it and it's always out of the way :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Not sure if it's already been mentioned or that you have noticed what could be potentially used to raise the ring light to a more suitable location. Wether this is meant for the ring light I am not sure but definately worked better for me. You can see the screw hole ( assuming the other two are out of sight) between your thumb and firstfinger holding the lens at 3:14 . Thankyou for your vdeos. keep up the good work.
One push white balance button, I think, is like on old camcorders when you point a lens on a white wall or something is white, then push that button and then, according to current light, the camera will calibrate itself.
I think you are correct!
A zoom lens which shifts focus with zoom is much easier to design and less expensive to make. It is not a problem for still photography, just a bit slower.
Understood, thanks for mentioning that - and for watching!
The upper ring where the cam mounts can be adjusted a tiny bit up/down on mine (180x) to sometimes reduce the focus-shift. (If yours is not perfectly adjusted.)
My barlow is attached on the bottom though (first surface) which allows the ringlight to be higher than that surface. It also protects the first element in lens from solder spatter and allows me to screw it on/off without taking camera off.
Agree, a perfect zoom is about impossible to make due to the manufacturing tolerances required, especially going from low mag to high mag. Even high end stereo microscopes like Wild require a bit of refocusing.
HI tony, do you know any camera model/sensor that can record 4K@60FPS and 2K@120FPS?
No unfortunately and it seems to be a lottery. Even this one turned out NOT to be 60hz - it locks at 60hz but the actual framerate is 30! :D Typical!
@@tony359 thank you, i harassed the AliExpress sellers about that type of camera and i found nothing Lol, i found only the HAYEAR having some decent hardware comparing to the prices, and the RISINGCAM brand has some good quality cameras but the prices are higher.
the problem is that it's all promises. My advice is: don't overspend on Aliexpress.
Great in depth video, thanks!
Glad you found it useful, thank you for watching!
Any thoughts on binoculars?
With regards to the barlow lens distance issue. Why not build an extension for your base that raises the entire system up to the proper operation range for it? /it could be maid out of an addition tube or wooden plates. Another option is to simply get a longer pipe that covers the whole range and a proper pipe clamp.
You'd end up with the microscope up in the air :) It's much simpler to get the proper lens/barlow lens, they are inexpensive!
Look at the aspect ratio too, 4:0 v ~16:9, 12 Mpix v 9 Mpix max respectively. You can test this data by taking photos in various modes and checking the resultant filesizes etc. Perhaps its a factor of aspect ratio rather than colour model / filtering, though RGB v CMYG the later producing more data.
Can you please tell me where I can find the aluminum stand because I am looking everywhere on ebay I couldnt find it if you can share me the link. Thank you
Doesn't the lens have an aperture ring? If so then one might be able to get more depth of field by closing down the aperture, and either increasing the gain ( potentially adding more noise) or increasing the light. That said one might start experiencing diffraction issues if the aperture has to be closed to much, and at the zoom factor it's at the amount the aperture might not deepen the focus plane all that much, but it's worth exploring.
Hello - no, there is no aperture ring. Those lenses are cheap, I suspect that there is not much that can be gained! :) But it could be interesting to test!
Place a threaded insert into the desktop so that it is slightly below the surface. You can put a screw in it when not using the scope or remove it and screw a piece of all thread into the insert and then screw your upright tube on to the all thread.
Good idea! Though that means making a hole on your desk :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 that's why I said you could put a screw in it, preferably a flat headed so it would be flush with the desktop.
hello, it seems to me that this LAPSUS microscope, 12mp UHD with Sony imx334 sensor, looks great, am I wrong?
I'm still happy with it! :)
@@tony359 thanks for the reply, I was about to buy it from LAPSUS, then I chose the top range that only they have, the big black one with Sony IMX385 V2 WDR sensor, with HDR wireless mouse, seen here on RUclips from another colleague, who is really great, you see everything in another dimension, if I'm not mistaken, this Sony IMX385 V2 sensor, still today is the best of all, now the price is Also dropped by how many nor are they coming all over the world, before it was too expensive... Now it's coming, let's see how it will be live. 😉👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
@@hitechmaster69 Amazing! Did you watch my video? It didn't have a 377 as advertised. For a "cheap" microscope it's ok, the actual chip is a 334 which is as good or even better than the 377 but if you paid a premium for the 385 V2, I would definitely make sure it has it inside when you receive it! Which can be tricky as you can't say you've opened it to check it :)
@@tony359 Do you think I made a good choice to take that one? the wdr sony imx385 v2? thank you 😉👍🏻🔝
@@tony359 why can they do these scams?
I watched you video again, and you're absolutely right when you're saying in the intro, that choosing the right camera to buy is not an easy job. There are some many offerings and 1001 suppliers. The specs are not always very detailed. That is why such an detailed independent video is very helpful. I also like to buy a camera and currently I have my eyes on hayear HY6210. I think it is a very smilar camera like yours. It has the same connections and buttons. No separate power connections I'm wondering if it possible to use usb storage instead of the microSD card? Maybe by attaching an usb hub on the usbc port. did you ever try that?
Also you mentioned that the usb output is limited to refreshrate 1920x1080/30. For me hdmi is more important and that is 1920x1080/60.
But Hayear also has the HY6110 which has usbc type 3 and 1920x1080/60 usb output. So maybe the usbc3 port allows higher transfer or maybe the cpu is faster? It is also € 35 more expensive.
Both have IMX334 although some listings show IMX678 but that is not correct I guess. On the hayear site I also see IMX334 for these 2.
Did you considered hayear in your search?
Apparently the video output is always 30hz - when it says 60hz, it's 30hz "doubled" so each frame is sent twice to the display.
Don't overthink too much when you're browsing these scopes from China (no disrespect intended!), most of the specs are fake or "inflated" unfortunately.
I'm still happy with what I have though and I still recommend it.
Thanks for watching!
Getting the shiny new product you ordered and it arrives in a box wrapped crudely in yellow tape just screams confidence in quality! 😂
ahah yes! That worked well though, still using it nowadays and happy with it! Thanks for watching!
they don't waste money on branding and packaging. that's what drives up the cost in the states. for the same product twice the price but hey u get a fancy box lol
Good day. Pls advice what should I choose to see 1-2 mm object on the full screen in 4k quality?
Hello - I’m not a microscope expert I’m afraid. You could contact Lapsun directly and check with them. Good luck!
the link to buy the stand for the microscope is broken, do you have another link, please?
Thanks for letting me know, I've updated all the links.
What paste you add before heating the component with a heat gun? Isn't it easier to desolder the chip just use soldering iron?
it's called flux and it's pretty much a must when soldering. It prevents the solder from oxidising. When solder oxidises, it won't "flow". If you are soldering, you must use flux! :) Thanks for watching!
Oh.. I always used rosin flux (colophony). Just forgot that there are other types of flux. Thanks
This is interesting, should not Barlow lens go to objective side? I.e. closest to camera, not on front end?
I wouldn’t take these products as a reference in the optical engineering world 🙂 that said all the scopes I’ve seen around have a Barlow at the end. Maybe shouldn’t be called Barlow?
i purchased the same camera recently. The sensor is imx334 but mine is 24mp. I don't understand why, since imx334 should be 8mp. I guess it is due to interpolation in the firmware.
Hi Leo - indeed I did decide to dismantle mine a bit more and it’s an IMX334 as well. I suppose the software is upscaling indeed. I guess the firmware is being used on several different products.
In the end what matters is that we were promised an 8Mpx sensor and we got an 8Mpx sensor of good quality from Sony.
Still, not the most professional attitude. I wouldn’t buy a more expensive one from them if it’s a CMOS Lotto! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 nevertheless, I'm quite happy with it due to the price is certainly lower than other imx334 based camera. Imx334 is in the STARVIS series which good at low light, it is comparable with my imx290 maybe a bit better.
I do agree with you, the manufacturer is inconsistent and lack of data. However, again considering the price I can't complaint too much.
@@LeoL123 totally agree with you. I thought the 290 was the best of the best? You’re saying your 334 is comparable and a bit better?
@@tony359 I mean, imx334 is bit better in several aspects considering its sensor size is smaller than imx290, of course overall imx290 still the winner.
@@LeoL123 Amazing! The 290 is much more expensive so it's very nice to hear that it's even comparable to the 334! :)
Great review. I wish I had enough space on my desk to set up it like you. But I'm doing repairs and Arduino stuff only occasionally and I need to tuck the scope away often. So, I guess, I'll go for Andonstar AD246S-M. Still, I wish it had a desk edge clamp instead of the small base. I will see if I can invent a mod with a desk clamp for it, similar to what you did.
the Lapsun-style scopes are also available on smaller stands - you do need a monitor but who doesn't have one nowadays? :) Thank you!
Hi Tony I watched this video of yours. I am a fan of digitizing 8/super 8 films and I also use Chinese cameras and enlargement lenses. I have exactly the 180x you show in your video. However, I have never been very lucky in choosing the camera (all with Sony IMX sensor) because all of them (even imx377) when connected to the USB port, transmit a purple-pink color with shades of green. This happens both with a bare sensor and with any lens I use. If I frame a white sheet, it doesn't display white but everything pink. After many useless purchases I finally found the first and only sensor that doesn't have that problem: the IMX317 4K. My question is: why does this happen? Because your imx377 transmits perfect colors and the same setup as mine, right? How can I solve it? Thank you!
Hi - no, I never had that issue. I do not use the manufacturer's software, I use OBS. The device is seen as a camera so you can configure it under OBS with no need for drivers or special tools, it just works. What you describe sounds like the incorrect colour space. Mine works under OBS with everything "default" but there is an option to change the colour space. The microscope menu has some resolution options - the menu is not available when USB is plugged in though.
One thing, if you plug the microscope while OBS is working, it won't work. You have either to restart OBS or you can "disable" and then "enable" the device inside OBS.
I really don't think yours is a sensor issue, more a connectivity/software issue.
Unlikely, but also try a different USB cable. Good luck!
I bought a Eakins trinoqular about 2 years ago. I can't get used to looking down the scope(i don't have binocular vision. I prefer the HDMI. Wish I saw this first as it would be slightly cheaper. I would mount it to a monitor arm with a 3d printed Vesa mount. I may sell my scope and get a Lapsun . Great video. Thanks
Same experience here. I once worked for a few hours in a place where they had a Nikon scope. I just couldn't use it. First, the eyepieces were 10x and it was like looking through a pinhole. Second, I couldn't get used to that massive thing in the way!
After fiasco with Eakins IMX334 4k@30 1080p@60 fps (it has actually much better sensor IMX678, but it is only 30 fps at 1080p) I'm considering to buy this or another one (RF4 4KC1) with smaller sensor (visually from photos and review video where they show sensor on camera it's IMX415 or IMX715). Does your camera really provide 1080p@60 fps over HDMI? Both of your videos are only 30 fps so I cannot check visually through stepping frame by frame. I've seen 10th of 60 fps videos with cameras that claimed to be 1080p@60 fps and almost all of them in reality provide only 30 fps (and some of them, like Kaisi in metallic collor with red buttons, do not even provide 4K, toggling it in the menu does nothing, so it is ~100$ for 1080p@30fps lol), when frame stepping it takes 2 frames to refresh the image on the monitor connected over HDMI, and those few with real 1080p@60 fps looks really smooth even without frame stepping...
P.S. Most of these cameras when connected both to HDMI and USB (like in your video) will provide the lowest FPS to both outputs, so if HDMI is 60 fps, but USB is 30 fps max, it will provide only 30 fps over HDMI in this case.
I can check for you. I never felt it was an issue but I never checked myself. How can I check on a monitor though, if the monitor reports 60fps but the scope is doubling 30? I do have a capture device, should be able to do 60fps. I can also check on a 4K TV if it's actually doing 4K, I never bothered as my tired monitor is just 1080! :)
@@tony359 That would be great. For 60 fps the easiest way is to film the monitor with 60 fps smartphone or video camera while moving a board under the microscope. Capturing is probably also a way to go, but only if it for sure can capture in 60 fps. 4K would also be a nice check just to be sure camera can provide it.
@@tony359 Sorry to bother you, but any updates about this test?
I haven't forgotten you, I keep reading this and think that I have to do that. Sorry for the delay!
@@tony359It's ok, I'm not pressuring, just wanted to remind, so take your time. I'm also still researching for other less popular models to find out more information about their real specs.
Is there any way to manually adjust aperture? Or is that not an option at that price point?
Hi, no there is no aperture adjustment. Only adjustment is zoom (on the lens) and focus (by moving the whole thing up and down).
You can plug mouse into camera usb
Yes indeed!
Does this microscope have the sensor model noted on the PCB? I realize there was some confusion between IMX337 and IMX377, but if you look at this video at this time stamp, you may be able to check your PCB for sensor model: ruclips.net/video/1jV7Qzr3OQ0/видео.html
I'd be curious if yours shows IMX337 or maybe even an older model?
Hello, one of my viewer suggested that already and indeed it’s an IMX334 (at least that’s what the PCB says). Still doesn’t explain the picture resolution though. I pinned that comment somewhere! I hope this helps!
Hi Tony, great video! I'm looking for a microscope that I can use to view life in pond samples. I'm not able to use a compound microscope, nor scopes with eyepieces to view through, so I wonder if something like this can get close enough to the water sample (between 1-1.5 cm) to focus on the little things living in the water. I had one that allowed me to view, but the camera was awful and the videos were very blurry - it was a camera issue - although the pictures were really good. Would appreciate your opinion if you have a moment. Much thanks!
I'm afraid I am not experienced when it comes to that. That said, I am not sure I understand the requirement: any microscope would focus at a fixed distance. This Lapsun with the 120x lens focusses at around 10cm, you just need to have your sample at around 10cm distance. If a different lens focusses at 5cm, then you need your sample at around 5cm. Am I missing something?
These scopes are available with many different lenses, including ones with much higher magnification. The downside could be - I am not sure - the depth of field which might become very very shallow!
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Thanks! I had a stereo microscope (industrial) which, when close enough to the slide, was unable to raise up high enough to focus. I think I didn't look at the cm/mm requirements prior to purchase, for that particular lens. Anyway, have a Happy New Year, and thanks again for your input.
Happy new year too! My curiosity is: why do you need to have it so close to the slide? If the scope focusses at - say - 10cm, why would you need it to be closer than that?
@@tony359 Well. Good question! My understanding is that the closer to the slide, the more magnification with clarity using fine focus. Bear with me, many many gaps in my current knowledge. With the microscope I mentioned above, I was at about 1cm and the pond life looked pretty close up and personal. Amoeba, for example is about 250 microns. Paramecium at about 10 microns. Bacteria, about 3 microns.I would love to get clear pix at those lower levels, if it's possible, without a compound microscope.
I think there might be different type of lenses around. The fixed zoom would work as you say: you get closer to the object to increase magnification and turn a knob to focus. The Lapsun's has a zoom ring on it. So it's fixed distance. If the focussing distance is, say, 10cm, that's it, you cannot take it to 5cm or you wouldn't be able to focus.
The magnification is adjusted by the zoom ring on it, THEN you adjust the distance of the whole lens to focus it. But it's about 1cm difference between maximum and minimum magnification.
I hope this helps!
It could be taking the photo in the 3 colour planes, of 8k pixels each. When recombined that yields 24k
That would be clever but no, it's just a different sensor! It's a Sony IMX 334 and not the one advertised! Thanks for watching!
I want to buy a product from lapsun company, what do you think about the products and do you advise me to buy sony imx290 or sony imx307
well my comment about Lapsun is in the video! :) The 290 is an expensive one, personally I would not buy it from a company who does not seem to know what they install in their products I'm afraid. The 307 - AKA 337 - AKA 334 is "fine" assuming you're getting what I received. Others viewers seem to be very happy with it.
可以把CCD感光面拆出来对比IMX377比较容易发现
或者它是IMX334LQR，我也买了一个等到手看一下。
I’m confident there are ways to determine what sensor is inside. There’s also probably a serial access somewhere. For now I’d rather not open it up again as it’s brand new 🙂 and, honestly, the picture quality is good to me! But thanks for mentioning and for watching!
我的已经到手和你的完全一样，相同的厂家，CCD是IMX334。
@@wrzone4261 interesting, thanks! The 334 is a 4K chip (8Mpixel). I get 12Mpixel from mine so I suspect I have yet another type of CCD!
@@tony359 我认为你的也是IMX334，感光元件那片PCB在背面有写”IMX334”字样，我有看过CCD内部金线布局和网络上查询到的IMX334图片完全一样。我认为不会有错。
Hi Tony 359. Thank you for sharing and great video!
I just got the same camera today..
Can you tell me what formating the micro card should be. I get a card erro when i try record. Best regards Danni 🇩🇰
Hey Danni - thanks for watching! To be honest I never use the SD card as it's so inconvenient to insert and remove. I use OBS instead. However I just tried for you and the SD card was functioning normally after being formatted with default parameters by Windows 10. It's an 8GB sd card. I hope this helps.
PS: make sure you are actually inserting the card in the slot, if you watched the video you see it's very easy to just misalign it.
@@tony359 Thank you! The SD card was corrupted. I installed a new one. it works great!
The card flew out when i press my nail in. lol.
It works fine with concentration.
Yes i saw your video and was really helpful! 😀👍
@@RandomRestore That's great! Yes be careful when using the SD card, the slot is not the best design of that microscope!
Can you buy this camera by itself? And will it fit in the camera port of a normal microscope?
At $145, I might buy the whole kit just to get the camera...
You can buy just the camera yes. It's a C-mount camera, the dimensions are standard. I can tell you the ring where it's clamped is 50mm.
Depth of field is an intrinsic property of an optical system - it is based on the numerical aperture (N.A.) of the lens. The larger the N.A. the shallower the depth of field. Resolution is also directly proportional to N.A. Therefore, the higher the resolution the shallower the depth of field.
Depth of field is a feature, not a defect. Many people think that depth of field is an independent attribute of an optical device. In fact, for perfect optical systems, it is what it is. Ironically, imperfect optical systems generally have greater perceived depth of field than perfect systems, especially if spherical aberration is the imperfection. But that is only because the imperfect systems have a soft mushy focal region - a perfect system "snaps" to focus.
I didn't mean to tag it as a defect, only mention that it's there and you might need to fiddle with the focus knob more than you'd want! Thanks for watching!
I didn't mean to say you did, just the bloviating optical engineer talking. I think you did a fine job of describing what you saw. I brought the subject back up because there is this idea in the user world that depth of field is somehow a quality feature. It looks like your system has very good optical performance. Makes me think of changing from my stereomicroscope to a camera system.
Just a suggestion on the sensor question - have you examined the meta data in the image files? IME the sensor is usually listed there. I use imageJ for simple image examination and processing.
@@tony359
the quality of the optics is indeed one of the reasons I got this one. I tried a high quality Nikon stereo microscope. It had 10x eyepieces. I couldn't use it. I could only see through it when my eyeballs were perfectly aligned with a very very narrow section of the eyepieces otherwise the view would be blocked. Also, the microscope is big and in the way. I heard those 10x have that defect but my first impression was not great. I really don't have issues watching a monitor while I am soldering... But I am used to that! :)
Regarding the question of the sensor. Have you looked at the meta data of the image files?
At some point I did remove the PCB and it's an IMX334, I pinned a comment somewhere. I believe the metadata only show the model of the scope.
Hah! I should read the next response first!@@tony359
ahah no worries! :)
you can look at a 4k feed with a 1080 monitor you will have more pixels and need to zoom in to the correct level - issue could pop up format wize - even tho i keep fixing my system the 10 bit video always returns to a green/purple
I've done some tests, my 4K TV reports 4K but whether that is actual 4K or scaled FHD, nobody knows. For example it turns out that when the scope says 60Hz, it's actually 30Hz where each frame is sent twice :)
Bottom line: don't expect too much from these items :)
Thanks for watching!
I think the chinese stuff is great lets you dip your toes without going all the way I dont like these people when they run down the chinese gear or the other angle is to call them a scam or counterfeit thanks for the vid @@tony359
What is the thread of the camera? Is it C-mount?
Yes it is. So you have plenty of options available.
Thanks@@tony359 Already have the 180x lens (c-mount) and was looking for a decent camera.
I'm pleased with mine. Bear in mind it does 30FPS - it can do 60 but it repeats the frames twice....
They advertise it as 60FPS at 1920x1080 and 30FPS at 4K. So that's not true?@@tony359
Apparently it's not. I never really thought about that as I feel that 30FPS is plenty for electronics. But a viewer asked me to check and I could only get 60FPS but they actually repeat the frames twice to get to 60FPS! Typical! Your display will say 60 but it's actually 30.
This is unless I made a mistake somewhere but I could not get "true" 60FPS out of it. Again, I really don't think it's necessary for electronics.
I always thought a barlow lens went at the eyepiece end of the main lens
The ones I got don't have a thread on one end so they can only go at the end of the lens. That said, I am not an optical engineer :) Thanks for watching!
Great review, I guess they put 'Sony' on whatever they like. So did you also considered an Autofocus camera? Or aren't you missing AF?
I've never tried one but I'm not a fan of "automations". When using a scope the depth of field is usually very narrow - I often tweak the focus manually to focus the PCB -OR- the top of a small SMD component. With Autofocus I'd need to do manual focus pretty often I think so... No, I don't think so :)
Thanks for watching!
I bought a Sony 55 megapixel HDMI digital microscope camera 260x zoom it came with no software and I'm trying to locate software and drivers cuz when I plug it into the USB it's not even recognizing any help would be appreciated thanks in advance...
My microscope doesn’t need software, it’s automatically detected by windows 10 and can be used in OBS. It came with software but I didn’t test it.
When you say ‘it’s not recognised’, do you see it under your device manager somehow, maybe with a question mark? Does the computer make the ‘usb plugged in’ sound when plugged in? Did you contact your seller, is that a Lapsun?
@@tony359 yeah I figured it out I tried another laptop and it's working but I noticed like a 4 second delay so I'm probably going to run it HDMI more zapier thanks for getting back to me
@@no1be4me2 Yes, USB is for recording, not for actually using the microscope. That said... 4 seconds??? Mine shows a higher lag but not SECONDS! HDMI is 15ms I think, USB might be 50ms, cannot be seconds!
Thanks for video.
If you moved the camera halfway up, having the 0.3x lens. Couldn't you get focus at that height? must be better, less solder fumes in lens, and not being in the way all the time. And still good magnification
I cannot focus with that lens and that stand. It's shown at 19:20. I got a 0.75x and that works.
ruclips.net/video/YAdUFEa3CAY/видео.html
@@tony359 OK thanks for reply. I thought you meant you couldn't focus at max distance. But good to know.
I've spoken to some sellers who claims I need a 0.3x lens for 180x optic to be able to work at 10-40cm, but that doesn't sound correct after I've seen your video.
Thanks for input
My lens is 120x. For a 180x a 0.3x Barlow might work.
Thanks, I clear up many doubts regarding the camera or microscope.
You're welcome!
can u do anything intesting by turning the microscope on its side and using it as a very blurry selfie camera
No unfortunately, the field of view is miniscule and the focus plane is very close to the lens so more or less useless with that lens! Thanks for your comment!
@@tony359 hah I figured as much. I love microscopes and have always wanted a digital one just to play around with
Thank you sir for your review!
After almost one year , do you still recommend this Microscope?
Yes I'm still happy with it. That said, I do not know whether there is something better available now.
@@tony359 thank you for taking the time to answer , and thank you again for the time you pass making the video, all the love from Morocco
10 cm is small height to work with tools can't aproach like they should...small area, then 50cm is too much did you get another lens ?
I got a 0.75x barlow, that raised the height a bit. I think a 180x + 0.5x Barlow would have been the sweet spot. But as it is now it is ok, I feel. Thanks for watching!
@tony359 no problem mate I just subbed nice content you have and skills, BTW why are you repearing such a old stuff ? Not something newer :D
It's a combination of nostalgia but also because everything is bigger there and it's easier to diagnose. I can follow the traces etc.
Hello, I just ordered the Sony IMX385 V2 1080P 60FPS HDMI from Lapsun for $235 US but not sure if the sensor will be any better than what you have here? It is very difficult to understand what sensor is best etc. For your camera, though It is a great picture and very doable for rework and electronics etc. I would be very happy with the camera you have for sure. thanks for the video
Yes, it's not great that you end up in this "sensor lottery". Hopefully whatever you receive is going to be good. Let us know how it goes and thanks for watching!
@jonnymakers9560 hello, so did you get the imx385 v2 any impressions on the picture quality! Thinking of ordering one myself
@@AK-ct7tw I received this A2 camera from Lapsun but it does not have an off on button so it is still in the box. I am actually thinking of selling it and buying the 485 from lapsun because it has a on off button. I did want to use this camera because then I could not sell it as new open box. It is supposedly the exact same as Northridge folks. I will let you know how the quality of the 485 goes.
@@jonnymakers9560 Be careful buying from Lapsun. They have been scamming the IMX290 cameras for years now. They say its the IMX290 but you get the terrible IMX185 or the terrible IMX307 instead. Sensor lottery but when it comes to the IMX290 listings they are both bad.
@@jonnymakers9560 I'm looking forward to seeing the quality of the 485! I bought the 385 because it was waaay cheaper than northridges. 234 vs 600.
Hello,
I might be wrong, but I think that this model is a IMX334 sensor ... some sellers on aliexpress indeed sells it indicating wrongly a IMX377 ... but I really do think that it is a IMX334 instead, here's why :
- the IMX334 is a 8Mpixel (the IMX377 is a 12Mpixel following its datasheet)
- the IMX334 has a pixel size of 2x2um ...
- other sellers (won't give names ^^' ) sells it correctly with IMX334 mentioning
Hope that helps some with this confusion ^^'
Hi - you're not wrong. I pinned a comment mentioning that one of my viewers said the same and I then decided to take a peek myself and the sensor PCB indeed says "IMX334" on it. Well guessed and thanks for watching!
What is the mega pixel sir? Plz reply. Thank you
I go through the megapixels at some point in the video!
Hola buenas me puedes ayudar yo tengo una camamra igual de jn sia para otro se ve oscura y así le ponga luz no se ve bien
Maybe you've set the exposure too low in the menu? Try resetting it to factory default. (Warning: the menu is non-intuitive! :D )
Tengo una cámara que igual a esa y ahora la imagen se ve oscura como si no tuviera luz
Bueno yo temgo tiempo usando esa camamra y solo la apague un momento que tenia otra cámara para probarla en el micro , y luego qie la pongo ya me da imagen pero con poca luz
Me da imagen pero con poca luz
Es como cuando se le apaga la luz y se ve oscura
please excuse my question. You mention you had a long aftersales convosation with them. But the important part of that is what did they say in regards to you realising it isnt the right sensor? did they try and defend them selves or admit they have been very miss-leading? I mean if you pay for an imx sensor thats what you should get. not something else. Look forward to your reply
It's a very good question indeed. I discovered about the sensor some time after purchasing it. It's still an IMX, just not what they advertised. Given their unhelpfulness when I complained about the barlow lens - and given that I was happy with the quality of the image - I did not contact them again. I am currently still very happy with this microscope.
This is why I said that I would not go with them for a more expensive sensor - or at least I would put some protections in place to make sure I can get a refund if it's not. Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 fair enough. That would be a big issue for me. Buying something and getting something different. Like buying a Ferrari and finding out it’s got some lame V6 engine in it. Anything thing is if your going to review a 4k camera how come you didn’t get a 4k monitor to match? I mean they arnt a lot of money these days. Else you may as well of tested a 1080p camera as essentially that’s what you’ve done ;). I’ve been on the look out for an upgrade camera. More so an actual 4k. But really interested in picture quality compared to a decent 1080p variant. Hopefully one day you can do another video when you have a 4k monitor hooked up and see what it’s really made of 👌🏻
@@MrOrangeman18 I don't have a 4K screen and this channel is my hobby! In my opinion, in photography pixels are not everything. The optics are usually as - or more - important. I did not buy this microscope just because of the resolution.
About the product, you made a good point: I did not buy a Ferrari :) I bought a Golf and I was sent a Focus. Still not good but the Focus is a good car too! Your point is valid though, I just did not contact them as I knew I had ZERO chances of getting anywhere :)
@@MrOrangeman18 If you want the #1 video - FPS / picture quality you will need to find super old stock of the IMX290 cameras. It has the best sensor technology and the low light clarity cant be beaten due to how the IMX290 sensor is designed. I have purchased about 5 camera's after my real IMX290 and none of them can compare. 3-4 years ago Eakins was selling this model but they went out of production and all listings anyone is selling has a different sensor. They claim IMX290 but you will receive the IMX307
If it was 4 colour, say CMYK @ 8 M Pix per colour then 32 M pixel etc, but its RGB 3 colour additive model.
By the way: Interesting to see some vignetting on the corners when using the zoom as a 120x. I do not see that on my 180x setup where the upper adapter is 0.5x (The zoom-lens is the same...)
yes that is not super great but not the end of the world. I've been thinking of asking Lapsun to send me a different adaptor, as you noticed the zoom-lens is the same, they just change the adaptor! :)
@@tony359 Mine is from them also, but a few years older. I ordered an extension to my stand that screws into the first rod as my rods were shorter. (Looks like the stock rod is longer now.) I find I get a super working height of 200mm with the 0.35x barlow and my FOV is about 46mm at minimum zoom and 6mm at max zoom. Keeps scope out of the solder-spatter and I do not bump it with my hands using the tweezers.
For inspecting large boards it would be good to have a bit more FOV but since I mostly work on tiny high density boards 46mm can often fit entire board 😜
There are indeed many possibilities and that stand is really well made. The 180x with the 0.5x is probably the sweet spot. I overthought it a bit when I purchased it! As you say, magnification is important but also FOV.
Thanks for the video, I've been looking to upgrade my microscope camera and after seeing your video I decided to go for the same one. I just hope I get the IMX334 sensor and not 337. :)
Great! I have to say I don't regret getting one. I've been postponing this purchase for years as I thought I really didn't need one but I noticed I use it quite often. Hint: if you contact Lapsun directly, you can purchase directly from them at lower prices. I cannot vouch for them (and I am not affiliated to them in any ways!) but in the end the service was good and shipping was fast.
@@tony359 I ended up getting it through ebay just to be covered, I don't know if it's all the sensor confusion or they just don't know what they're selling but this camera seems to be quite under priced for what you get. It gives a fantastic picture, I'm not complaining that's for sure 😀 I bet the price will go up at some point when they figure out what sensor it actually has. 😆
@@games2replay ahahah - Well, happy days! To be fair, I am very happy with it too and it's a terrific tool in my shop. When I see others' online videos recorded with more expensive microscopes, I usually think "mine looks very similar" :) I'm really happy that my video helped you in the choice and - most importantly - that you're happy with the microscope! Thanks for letting me know!
u could also try usb 3.0 or higher cable
I could but to what advantage? Thanks for watching!
for your laptop capture program maybe the feed wil have les lag ? @@tony359
the amscope 10x is a good value .. I like mine. before that i used a M43 camera hooked up to a monitor
I admit I only tried an optical scope for a few minutes - it was a good quality Nikon one - and I wasn't impressed. It's in the way! I prefer the monitor - but I only tried it for a few minutes! I heard good things about the Amscope indeed! It was on my list when I was looking for a scope.
so lapsun licensed this design from sony?
I guess they purchased the sensors from them, I'm not sure but I don't think you need a license from Sony to build a microscope using one of their sensors. Can't be 100% sure though! Sony sensors are popular, they're a bit everywhere. Thanks for watching!
I've seen several cheap cameras and microscopes upscale images. E.g. they claim 1080p and it's really 480p upscaled 3x (sometimes 3.2x). I'm surprised you didn't zoom in and figure out the real resolution.
It’s a Sony IMX334 (see description), I know the resolution and it’s definitely not 480p 🙂
hi, what was the weight of the package altogether?
I'll weigh the whole thing and let you know, might take a little time, sorry!
@@tony359 oof - haha no worries, thought maybe you remembered the package weight from the waybill or something...I'm trying to cut on shipping costs due to weight.
@@TheFaanie I can check on the footage is I can see the FedEx label - also from the tracking number. Bear with me.
To save money honestly don’t buy the base for the microscope. I love my solution it’s so flexible and you don’t have that chunky metal base in the way all the time!
the whole kit is around 3KG. I suppose if you add up some wires, PSU, boxing and packing material the final box must have been just below 4KG. I hope this helps!
@@tony359 that's perfect, appreciate it - thanks!! 🙌
Really well done video. Good info. I won't critique the soldering 😊 because I'm pretty sloppy in my older years.
Thanks for watching!
Amazing microscope
Yes, it's a nice machine! Thanks for watching!
I can attachment telescope & slr lens canon camera to... Product sony.? Tank you.
This is a C-mount microscope and only works with C-mount optics. Not DSLR I'm afraid.
Use a thicker spacer for the Barlow lens.
I didn't think of that - still, a replacement barlow was pretty cheap so better investing in the proper barlow I guess? But thanks for mentioning!
Thanks for making this video. Just FYI, I found an identical looking camera unit on t**b** and the spec says it has IMX334, which does have 2x2µm pixels at 4K resolution.
Yes, I then discovered this has an IMX334 as well, I added that in the description! So it's a Sony after all! Thanks for mentioning that!
Someone have experience with hayear hy 5299 or with hy 6210 Microscope camera from aliexpress?
I don't sorry!
I really liked this review and was wondering if you had any plans on a follow up like after using it the past year does everything still work? and have you ever pointed it outside and recorded other things like scenery or use it as a webcam around the shop?
Thank you! Never thought about a follow up - I can tell you I still love it though! And.. No, never though of using it in a different way, wouldn't I need a different lens for that?
Thanks for the idea and for watching!
@@tony359 idk depends how far the focus can be adjusted. maybe some of the tube sections can be removed so its not a macro lens anymore.
I'm curious now, I'll try!
You should use 0.5x Barlow lens with this
I ended up with a 0.75x, I think it's good for the 120x. 0.5x is good for the 180x.
Thank you for this video it was really helpful.
I bought the same model directly from Lapsun today, i can't wait to try it.
I hope it has an Imx377 sensor as advertised. If not, it's your fault 😂😂
You missed the pinned comment! :) It's an IMX334 (A viewer mentioned and I decided to check mine too!). I think Lapsun also changed the advert - but not the pictures which still say 377 o 337 I can't remember.
The bottom line is that I really like it. I think it outperforms most of the scopes I see being used online. The picture is nice and "natural". Make sure you don't use digital zoom and don't use any digital "enhancement". Let me know how you find it - and what you get! :) And thanks!
@tony359 indeed.
ok, it's an 8Mpx sensor instead of a 12Mpx. still a solid one.
Thank you again
your complaint about the microSD port is very common in a bunch of high end equipment that i have
oh wow! I thought it was just a feature for the lower end ones! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I jumped the gun, the issue with the big gap is one I don't know about, but the flush design I've seen a bunch of times. It is a bit annoying sometimes!
I bought the RT5109 model in 2021. Sony IMX226 sensor ( 1/1.7) is written on the manual. Today, the same Model changed the sensor into Sony IMX334 sensor (1/1.8). At that time, IMX334 was about $90 cheaper than IMX226, and Panasonic sensors were about $200 cheaper. I called the seller (RisingCam) on the phone prior to making the order. He assured me that IMX226 sensor is installed. Now, I'm in high doubt. How could I figure out the model of sensor installed?
If you open it up, on my item the model is written on the PCB which has the sensor on it. It’s behind the ribbon cable, you might need to remove it for a moment (there’s a connector). Check out the pinned comment on the video, one of my viewers helped me finding out and mine is a IMX334. Let me know and thanks for watching!
@@tony359 The pinned comment either no longer exists or I can't see it for some reason. I bought a pretty much identical camera from Eakins, although they advertise it as a imx334, but I am not sure what I am looking for. Can you be more specific about what you saw written that confirmed the sensor?
Also I think a lot of the USB lag is OBS. I downloaded the companion software "S-EYE" and the latency was pretty much identical to HDMI. Granted the only place I could actually find to download it was the Hayear website. It all seemed super shady and probably infected my PC with chinese government spyware or something. But I wanted to be able to test out all the camera settings and some of them can only be accessed via the app. Granted, initial impressions are it probably isn't worth the hassle.
I purchased the RISING CAM RT5109 this year and my camera does have the IMX334 sensor. It really does have great video quality and a true 60 FPS HDMI preview for both 1080 & 4K. I know there were come changes from 2021 to now 2022/2023 models of the RT5109 which did improve them from prior revision related to CPU/MEM used in conjunction with the sensor. I have purchased a few other camera from Lapsun and Eakins that claimed IMX334 but the video quality was terrible and the FPS were interpolated ( fake frames pretty much ) to get the " 60 FPS preview ". Lapsun was trying to sell fake IMX290 cameras and were really using a crappy IMX307 / IMX185 sensors. I would know because I purchased 2) IMX290 cameras and they did not have the correct sensor. I did it as a test to see if they were scamming. I used 2 accounts and 2 different listing's. They both were different with the 2 sensors mentioned above. Lapsun will no longer have my business. 3-4 years ago Eakins was selling the real IMX290 camera's and I was lucky enough to purchased 2 of them before they stopped manufacturing them. Even North Ridge Fix got scammed. All his cameras that he was selling on his site were suppose to be IMX290 but he only received IMX307's which cost about 1/3rd the price. NRF never addressed the issue but many of his customers did open the cameras up and saw the IMX307 label. Now he is selling the IMX385 and it does appear that model is using the correct sensor. No way near as good as the IMX290 but 1000X better than the IMX307's.
@@shiftctrlhack do you have the link to the RT5109 you purchased?
@@shiftctrlhack would you consider the MX 334 or IMX377 sensor most comparable to the IMX290? Which sensor would you consider top shelf as far as picture quality available to buy today?
What about cells and microorganisms, though? Not everyone wants to get up close and personal with capacitors and PCBs 🙂
There are many optics available for the "C mount" scopes. The same seller has a 720x lens available. Mind you, the lens is the same, they change the adaptor. My 120x has a 0.35x adaptor. the 720x has a 2x adaptor. How well it would work I do not know - and the lens becomes very long! At that magnification vibrations become an issue. My use case is electronics I'm afraid! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I completely understand that transistors and resistors populate your domain, but it would still be very cool to look at some organic life forms 🙂 Thanks for the info on your setup and the other scope option.
Good review. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
You should be able to adjust the aperture to change depth-of-field. With all that light, you might be able to get decent depth-of-field even with somewhat closeup pics. Keep in mind that with a very small aperture (high f/number), you'll get diffraction, meaning less sharp images. This isn't a camera thing, it's just optics and thust physics :)
Interesting point. But how do I change the aperture? I would need to add a diaphragm in the lens somewhere?
what sort of lens was this again? @@tony359 do you have a link to it?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314830140511
hm… seems to me there's no such thing as adjustable aperture on these things. strange… @@tony359
they are cheap things! :)
Hey ...if you bothered to watch other channels you would have bought the 0.5x Barlow lens. It's widely recommended for height Vs smd soldering.
Well, other channels usually show the 180x Lens which will probably work best with a 0.5x barlow. I went for 120x-0.75x, if you watch the follow up.
@@tony359 ok. I am sorry you got into messy choices. But your point being suppliers did not package a working solution for you. That's correct and it's not your fault. The reality is that most brands are not manufacturers. They just rebrand bits and pieces into a package they don't even test. Your channel is well structured and good quality. I wish you all the best as it does take much effort to produce material for any channel. Thank you and be blessed.
@@naidol Opinions are always welcome. I did choose the 120X as from all the video I watched, the 180x did not seem to give enough FOV - and when I bought the microscope I did not find a video explaining that an 180x + 0.5 barlow was the sweet spot. Maybe I missed it - but I did bother to watch them! :)
On the seller, I had an extensive conversation about the product before purchasing. I asked recommendation, they were aware of what use it was for. I bought everything in one go - and the kit they sold me was not functional. I can understand they might have missed that but I would have expected a better response to that.
Not the end of the world, maybe I am used to customer service around here, I just mentioned as it felt relevant. Thanks for your kind words about content creation! :)
An old blurry memory in head whispered something about a simple small metal tube (~2-5mm) between the camera and the lens, to get the closest focus point closer to the the lens. Wasnt it used in macro photography? Maybe this could be a solution for you, but maybe im totally wrong and my brain is just a laundry tumbler XD
Optics is a beautiful world. Who knows how those "lens" are engineered. Probably copied by something else by someone who doesn't know much about them! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 googled a bit, and found them. they are called macro rings or macro extension tubes. If you have no autofocus or other electrical connection from the camera to the lens, those are simple metal tubes. you should get one for less than 20 bucks and then you can use your x0.3 adapter without hanging you camera to the ceiling ;)
Thanks for that - I think it's what they're doing at Lapsun, if you check the listing the 120x, 180x ecc all have the same "zoom lens" and the "adaptor" at the top changes which is likely as you say an empty tube. In fact I wanted to ask them if I could have just the adaptor for the 180x.
So you have an RGB camera it seems, not unusual in the additive colour world.
IMO, the Barlow lens issue is also your fault. Even though they offered it with the bundle, you should have done your own research on what it actually does and decide if it suits your needs.
From the Wikipedia article on Barlow Lenses:
Microscope use
In microscopy the Barlow lens is used to increase working distance and decrease magnification. The lenses are "objective lenses" that are mounted in front of the microscope's last objective element. Barlow lenses for microscopes can be found with magnifications ranging from 0.3× to 2×. Some standard lenses are 2×, which decreases the working distance by half and doubles the magnification, 0.75× (3/4×), which increases the working distance by 4/3× (1.33×) and decreases the magnification by 0.75×, and a 0.5× Barlow doubles the working distance and halves the magnification.
You could have saved yourself and the seller a lot of trouble with a single internet search. In your case, a 0.5x lens would have been more than enough.
Sure but in my opinion this is where the sales representative comes into play. If I go online and just buy stuff, then I do my own research. But If I ask for advice and the representative does not mention that the kit I discussed with them won't work out of the box, allow me to pass some of the responsibility on to the seller! :) To clarify, the kit was purchased and discussed over email, I did not just go on their website and clicked on things! :)
That said, it was not much money so not the end of the world.
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Ah, I see now. I agree, it's partially the seller's fault too. Since it was recommended by the salesperson and they didn't do their due diligence to make sure everything works well together.
how to record video
I use OBS. Easiest way on the microscope itself it to push the record button on the remote!
@@tony359 ok
RGB - 8 M Pix per colour.
Remember, what are you referring to as microscope is actually just an electronic image sensor. The microscope part is the optical lenses assembly.
Thanks for pointing that out and for watching!
Should be a great help with your work!
Ted, It is indeed. I’m already wondering how I did before without it! Finally micro soldering is easy to do! Thanks for watching!
Hi, I see that you had spend some time talking to this provider. You’re good I see. Looking on eBay I find pricing around 80 dls, and you comment than you’ve made your video around pandemic time! That can explain price drop. I’m on a portable ultrasound for medical purposes. I see that price is around 2k, but I believe that with good experience on buying it should be more affordable. Let me know if you’re available for help me, I can help you doing a video with the equipment. Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi - I'm not sure I understand what you're after :)
My thoughts regarding the extra lens, it's expected if you buy something online the seller should state what it is and its capabilities as best as possible within its intended use. Many online Chinese sellers are either lazy or try to be smart because if you know it's not a good fit you won't buy, but if you take the risk that's their gain. So I would judge based on what vibe I'm getting.
In this case what's the focus limits so if they never stated that then they left it up to interpretation and they should pay the return fee and learn lesson next time. If they were too lazy to add this information I would have pushed. Online customer rights are different because you don't have a chance to inspect a product.
From doing this review you also made them money, but I guess you never mentioned, which was respectful of you.
I wasn't expecting this video to be so successful :) In the end it's a good product - what happened with customer service is normal when you buy from China so it's just a warning that those things can happen. Thanks for your feedback!
@tony359 well that's my take on that. Anyway, I've been holding out buying such a microscope due to the cost and still undecided on what to get so these reviews are useful.
and there are so many available!
Delay is unacceptable for soldering.
I find it ok, it's barely noticeable - clearly it can be subjective. Via USB it is unacceptable indeed - but that is for recording only!
Thank you for watching!
What!!! China lying about specs, you're pulling my leg.... 😂😂😂
LOL!
Digital microscope are good
forgive me if I'm wrong but I don't believe sony have any fabs so it can't be a sony sensor. open old sony gear and half the components are branded sanyo. looks like Chinese product rebranded to me
Well, whether Sony have this manufactured by someone else I do not know but Sony CMOS sensors are real! :) www.1stvision.com/cameras/sensor_specs/IMX334.pdf - Thanks for watching!
Thankyou bro I'll have a look myself now. Maybe they do have fabs or maybe they hire them out. I know that the business of consumer electronics is vastly removed from the actual fab labs now mostly. TSMC for example are at the cutting edge and I can't name one product they sell to the end user directly
@@lukehaworth5789 Sony are one of the biggest sensor makers in the world
@@MrOrangeman18 can you define sensor maker for me please? I can't identify one Sony Fab from memory. We all know the big names
Un supporto per monitor da £10 ti fornirebbe un palo verticale e una morsa per ancorarlo alla scrivania.
Anche. Ma il diametro è il medesimo? I supporti per monitor che ho hanno un diametro diverso.
@@tony359 se sei fortunato si. Io qua ne ho uno con un diametro di 3.5cm.
Penso che se cerchi su ebay puoi trovare anche solo il morsetto per la scrivania.
Hola amigo necesito de su ayuda es urgente
Unfortunately RUclips breaks down after 2 minutes
Breaks down?
@@tony359 Eventually it worked. But 3 times it got stuck at the 2 minute mark
interesting, glad you made it!