Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets! ~Leonie
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
Paul, do you use the aluminum plates over the entire piece or just in a few places like we see on the video? Though I've tried I just can't get the same sharp impressions made from the rubber stamps.
hey [: I'm making my first joint compound texture, do you let it dry for a few minutes after you've applied the compound so it isn't so wet and wont stick to the objects I use?
Paul, Saw your full video and loved it. Have you tried making larger pieces? Do you think the masonite would work for, say a 3 by 6 foot piece? Or would it flex and crack the "plaster?" ( I know it would be heavy) Thanks!
+JennyJardin You might consider doing say three pieces - each 3 by 2. Then hang them side by side to make the 3 by 6 size you want. I think that the drying time of the paint will make doing a 3 by 6 quite difficult. But it could be done!
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
Love your videos! Want more! I've been experimenting with this technique. Questions: What do you "seal" the plaster with before you paint on it?. I use modeling paste, so do I still need to seal it with something before I paint? Also, do you reuse the doilies or are they ruined after every use.? Do you wash them? Thanks!!!
thanks. i accidentally bought tempered masonite board. is there a way i can prep the board for this technique or should i just get another type of wood? any suggestions? sorry i need some work done for my local gallery and im pressed for time. thanks ag ain.
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
I immediately impress my stamps and other texture objects - yep, into the wet plaster. Be sure to wet each objects before pressing it into the plaster. It takes 24, 48 or 72 hours for the plaster to dry! (depends on the humidity) A recent video encompasses the entire proceedure.
@abbynormal92243 - Hi! I try to make the compound 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Often I don't press my "texture makers" very strongly - making just a shallow impression. I ALWAYS dip "whatever" in a bowl of water so that the plaster doesn't stick on the "whatever." Also, some stamps have very shallow images to begin with - they don't work the best. I've done finished pieces on 1/8" masonite - seems to work OK - probably best if small pieces - which are the best for experimenting. Have fun.
Prachi Sinduria Oil paints are slow to dry. It might take months to apply 3 layers of colors. And what varnish would you use? The plaster dries in about 48 hours unless you have high humidity - then maybe 96 hours.
I just finished working my first try at this! I'm so excited to see how it turns out. It was really easy to work with the joint compound. Do you ever fix mistakes with your fingers (wet with the compound) because that's what I did a few times. I love your videos and hope to see more!! You're an amazing artist and I sincerely hope you think that imitation is the best form of flattery!
@heygeno1951 Hi! I work on masonite (standard board) which is a rigid pressed board 1/4" thick. I've never had a problem with the joint compound cracking or coming loose. I used to paint with acrylics on masonite, "normal" paintings - not an uncommon surface for paintings.
doilies are wet? The material I use is a plastic paste, which is used to fill the holes in the wall, but is more liquid than yours. So, when I lift the doily sticks a bit and deforms the drawing, sorry by my English I'm from Argentine, do you understand me?
I've had to use the tempered masonite for the last 5 years 0 nothing else available in my area. I use a good primer - Kilz 2 - with stain blocking properties. So far no problems. I'm assuming that the "tempering" is done differently than in the past. I should research that online.
Хобби
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Love your ART and the feeling for colours!
Chapeau!
This is sooo very cool! AND beautiful!!! Thanks for sharing!
Great technique and beautiful results. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your response. I love your art work. Very unique. I hope you do more videos.
Whoa! This is incredible!
Thanks. I work with texture as well and love to see textured ideas. I have never tried to frame anything but might get brave enough to learn.
wooooooow!! It's exactly what I've been searching for!! thank you thank you thank you! :-)
WOW, I love this!!!
Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
You're a hoot! I will. Big hug, cat
Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
@Morningwhispers I really liked your large piece with all the cool things embedded in it - including Mona Lisa - great size!
Thanks a lot for sharing, I wasn't sure what should i use for raised texture... & love your work.. I was inspired :o)
your work and music taste are fantastic! yay!
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
Amazing tecniques!! and funny :)
very creative! I love it!
Amazing! Could you post a video on painting/coloring this? Or a pic of how it looks after painting? Thanks!
That's a real resourcefulness:-)
I love this. I really want to try it.
Thank you so much Mr.
Thanks! I use all water-based stuff - Liquitex acrylic paints and gloss medium for a sealer.
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
очень красивая работа, очень вдохновляет
Love this video. I use wall compound and white glue or carpenters glue on firm surface to avoid cracks.
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
Awesome! Thanks for this!
Deborah Narendorf You are welcome! I started working like this in 1971!
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
Oh that is really helpful thank you Paul
Thanks! Just mention that the joint compound is the "mud" builders use on walls and ceilings! Good luck.
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
That's cool, very artistic
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
I love your work, beautiful I've done something similar on my walls.
+Barbara Ferrell Thanks! I'd love to see your walls! Do you have images posted anywhere? I'll check your youtube channel.
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
this is cool! thank you!
Thanks, Maria, I've been at it for nearly 50 years!
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
How do you clean the rubber stamp after using for texture in this video.. Love this video , thank you.
thanks, excelent video!
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
BUENISIMO!!!!!!!!
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
Great tutorial! I was wondering if the joint compound is heavy to hang?
What are you using for a base? Is it canvas board or something else? Love this art and plan to try it myself! Thanks!
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
Instead of water in the plaster I use white glue, ends up with a really hard texture and really hard to scratch.
I will try that. I have been using joint compound. Did the paint crackle?
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
Thank you George. I was thinking to add latex varnish but never did it.
Hey do you put on wet doilies or dry ones?
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets!
~Leonie
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
Thanks for your comments here and on the other video - MUcH aPprEciaTeD!
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
I hope I can find joint compound in the UK as I loved this, I am a real texture kind of girl. Thank you for sharing your art.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
I have more videos about the various aspects of my work. The most comprehensive one is "2012_03_My Textured Paintings_All Steps & Proceedures"
Paul, do you use the aluminum plates over the entire piece or just in a few places like we see on the video? Though I've tried I just can't get the same sharp impressions made from the rubber stamps.
Great work. How do you frame them for your wall, or for hanging? Thanks
hey [: I'm making my first joint compound texture, do you let it dry for a few minutes after you've applied the compound so it isn't so wet and wont stick to the objects I use?
very very nice
@renatallm I"m looking for that answer too! What did he use to seal after making the textures before adding paints?
Paul, Saw your full video and loved it. Have you tried making larger pieces? Do you think the masonite would work for, say a 3 by 6 foot piece? Or would it flex and crack the "plaster?" ( I know it would be heavy) Thanks!
+JennyJardin You might consider doing say three pieces - each 3 by 2. Then hang them side by side to make the 3 by 6 size you want. I think that the drying time of the paint will make doing a 3 by 6 quite difficult. But it could be done!
how long should u wait for the compound to dry before stamping and painting?
Thank you
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
Love your videos! Want more! I've been experimenting with this technique. Questions: What do you "seal" the plaster with before you paint on it?. I use modeling paste, so do I still need to seal it with something before I paint? Also, do you reuse the doilies or are they ruined after every use.? Do you wash them? Thanks!!!
How long do you let the joint compound set before imprinting with stamps.
Good ideas Paul!!! & Viewers Mix in Acrylic Colors To the Paste for Diversities. & Take a Sponge With Paint Onit To Overlay a 2nd Color...........
Thanks, look for some of my other videos that show how I work colors into the textures!
@redihpeach Thanks! I have another video posted that shows the "coloring" process.
thanks. i accidentally bought tempered masonite board. is there a way i can prep the board for this technique or should i just get another type of wood? any suggestions?
sorry i need some work done for my local gallery and im pressed for time. thanks ag
ain.
Thanks!
What do you seal with prior to painting?
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
I immediately impress my stamps and other texture objects - yep, into the wet plaster. Be sure to wet each objects before pressing it into the plaster. It takes 24, 48 or 72 hours for the plaster to dry! (depends on the humidity) A recent video encompasses the entire proceedure.
@abbynormal92243 - Hi! I try to make the compound 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Often I don't press my "texture makers" very strongly - making just a shallow impression. I ALWAYS dip "whatever" in a bowl of water so that the plaster doesn't stick on the "whatever." Also, some stamps have very shallow images to begin with - they don't work the best. I've done finished pieces on 1/8" masonite - seems to work OK - probably best if small pieces - which are the best for experimenting. Have fun.
Ginmars1 I use the lightweight plus 3 joint compound.
thanks. where do i get kilz 2 at?
@mabellchurnoopay - can you tell me what the proportions are white glue to joint compound that you use?
Hi I love your work. Very inspiring. How do you frame and or hang these pieces?
Hello the texture was really amazing! But I want to ask..can you use oil paints on this kind of compound mix? And how long does it take to dry?
Prachi Sinduria Oil paints are slow to dry. It might take months to apply 3 layers of colors. And what varnish would you use? The plaster dries in about 48 hours unless you have high humidity - then maybe 96 hours.
@Morningwhispers YES, drywall or on my buckets it says SHEETROCK. Good luck and have fun.
@medhaj33 Thanks! I'm sorry, but the I've never found any other aluminum plates made like the one in the video. I wish I had more pieces, too!
beautiful work!! are your doilies wet when you lay them down?
Thanks, yes, everything that I impress in the plaster is dripping wet!
I just finished working my first try at this! I'm so excited to see how it turns out. It was really easy to work with the joint compound. Do you ever fix mistakes with your fingers (wet with the compound) because that's what I did a few times. I love your videos and hope to see more!! You're an amazing artist and I sincerely hope you think that imitation is the best form of flattery!
your art is absolutely stunning. what is the music in the background?
@art10ifly Thanks. Maybe someday you will make a video that shows how you do it? You have such a good touch with it - nice work!
muito legal !
I use acylic polymer to make texture in my painting. It is flexible, can be rolled.
@heygeno1951 Hi! I work on masonite (standard board) which is a rigid pressed board 1/4" thick. I've never had a problem with the joint compound cracking or coming loose. I used to paint with acrylics on masonite, "normal" paintings - not an uncommon surface for paintings.
Awesome
Heidi Falzon Thanks!
doilies are wet? The material I use is a plastic paste, which is used to fill the holes in the wall, but is more liquid than yours. So, when I lift the doily sticks a bit and deforms the drawing, sorry by my English I'm from Argentine, do you understand me?
Silvia Lores hola cual Es la pregunta no la entendi le puedo ayudar
hi sir !loved ur work....can u please tell me which paste have u used for creating the textures?
priyanka sareen Thanks, I use joint compound, a ready mix type of plaster used on walls and ceilings.
I've had to use the tempered masonite for the last 5 years 0 nothing else available in my area. I use a good primer - Kilz 2 - with stain blocking properties. So far no problems. I'm assuming that the "tempering" is done differently than in the past. I should research that online.
What a great idea! thanks for sharing! Did you paint it after? Love to see that!
On which think u apply plaster is thus cardboard sheet?
No, I use what is called Masonite or standard board. Google those words.