in terms of water cooling, i would get a cooling system with 2 by 120/140mm fans on a big radiator and not a single fan small radiator system... The other thing to remember is that all fans have a definite shelf life in your system, as the bearings wear out they make a high pitch sound... I tend to get 2 years use before changing...
GREAT. Looking forward to part 4. If that is as well done as this, it will be the best video on youtube explaining how to mount the components when putting together a PC!!
Back in't 90s I built a 1GHz Music PC with a Zalman Reserator passive watercooled CPU and GFX system. Problem was the loss of airflow from the fans caused the motherboard chips to overheat .... Ran fine for a while then cooked itself about 6 months in.
I concur! - the noisy cooling is proportional to power consumption, so getting a cpu with low tdp rating helps - also, there's no such thing as a quiet graphics card, so having a cpu with onboard gpu quiet things down a lot :)
Modern graphic cards, especially those with higher end cooling systems, completely turn off the fans during desktop use and only become audible during heavy 3D use. As for cases: The Fractal Design Define R series is the best you can get. The entire inside is covered with sound-dampening material, it still has bays for optical drives (for those who still need them), it doesn't look "gamer-y"; it costs around 150 quid, but it's absolutely worth it. My PC has an i7, a fairly top range graphics card, and is still dead silent, even at high system load. Dampened cases are amazing. Just make sure you're not taking a version with a stupid glass window on the side, which completely defeats the point.
Same here with a Fractal Design Define R6 tower case, Intel Core i7-8086K (4,0 GHz), be quiet! Dark Rock 4 cooler, Asus ROG Strix GeForce GTX1060-O6G gaming graphics card and SSDs only. The only times I can noticeably hear this machine is when playing games or doing more complex video editing. Otherwise it’s close to dead silent (the surroundings, my own movements and the clothes I’m wearing are way louder). I never heard it during music making.
To answer the question of AMD CPUs and their graphics capabilities: AMD APUs are the versions that have integrated GFX capabilities (and to avoid any confusion, while the latest iterations in the Zen2 and Zen3 architectures are also called Ryzen - and are divided into the 5, 7 and 9 series respectively - They are identified with a G in their CPU model identifier e.g. the 5600G for the 5th gen Ryzen 5 APU vs the 5600 for the non-APU version). Any MB that has an HDMI or other graphics port on it will be able to use an APU to perform the graphics calcs. For an audio build PC, this will most likely be the ideal solution if it's all you plan to do with it, or you perhaps plan to build a system that can also work with video editing or non-realtime graphics operations, as while the Radeon Vega based graphics components integrated onto the APUs are fairly decent for what they are, they're not dedicated graphics solutions (and never will be, just like Intel's Iris Pro or similar integrated graphics systems aren't). Most of the APU solutions that AMD build, however, are intended for the mobile market, so the desktop based APU systems are limited in the range available (I've yet to see a Ryzen 9 APU, for example - they're normally limited to the 3, 5 and 7 series) AMD parts like Threadripper and EPYC do not have any sort of integrated graphics. All of their processor die are dedicated to the CPU and any integrated control logic they require. And let's face it... If you're building a Threadripper (or TR Pro, to say nothing of EPYC) based system, you're not going to skimp on the graphics solutions, are you? My experience is in enthusiast building of various types of PCs across the last 25 years, mostly with AMD hardware starting back in the AMD Athlon days. My current build is a Threadripper, and I'm looking at a WRX80 build sometime in the next year.
I've been struggling with using Ableton live 10 along with Native Instruments Maschine mk3 on a 13 year old Dell XPS desktop PC running under Windows 7. After watching your "Build an audio PC" series, I've decided to pull the trigger and go all in to get the biggest baddest PC I could buy. ASUS workstation motherboard with an i9 processor, 128 gig memory and 1TB M.2 card for operating system along with all audio software. A humble 2 TB mechanical HD for data storage, all wrapped up in a "Be Quiet!" full size tower outfitted with a 1000 watt power supply. I know it is probably way overkill for what it is mostly being used for but I may play an occasional game or two on it. I have built may PCs in my lifetime and thought I was done doing so but this one will probably do me for the rest of my life.
Built my audio computer a few years ago with quiet running in mind. Define R4, 150mm CPU fan, passively-cooled GPU and....... a WD Black hard disk. Sounded like a geiger counter at the site of a terrible accident. Ended up swapping it out for a Green which was much better noise-wise and really not that much slower in real world use. Now that SSDs have came down in price a lot I'm using one of those instead.
I help reduce my pc noise by keeping it far away... long usb cords.. my pc is about 14 ft away, used usb extension cords also for audio interface, keyboard and a wireless mouse and of course an extended hdmi cable
@@robertsyrett1992 I guess that depends more on your needs. If you're someone who upgrades to every latest OS you might be in for a bumpy ride, yes. All I'm saying is that currently, it is an option. I don't upgrade often so for me it works just fine. I just made sure to get compatible hardware.
Thanks again! Awesome video, I lust after a new PC like this build but cannot justify it as I am a penniless nobody. Your tip here about checking fan speeds against performance is most excellent! I use a 7 year old (higher end) Xeon ThinkStation with 64 Gig DDR3 RAM and an upgraded fan. It's not too bad in terms of noise and I should point out that it has never crashed and never missed a single blip.......but.....I just scored an HD24 in good condition and a decent desk, looking for some decent compressors etc, I might try and leave the PC altogether for a while once I have a decent chain set up ; ]
@@MoltenMusicTech: Great! Planning to build an audio PC for my son after black Friday so it will come in very handy. He does some video rendering too so I will go for a more powerful graphics card though. Trying to figure out what graphics card to buy. Unfortunately most videos are for gamers.
Again Nice video ... You should try a Custom loop once ... AIO's tent to have noisier pumps than what you can use for a custom loop and are most of the time limited on radiator size personally I would recommend A triple Radiator (360 or 420) or larger since this will give a larger amount of space to cool allowing you to run fan's at lower speeds (If your case allows this sizes) if you would like to look in to this I would recommend EK Water blocks they have a wide range of different products and even have complete kits to get you started The best part is that they also have blocks for a lot of different Graphics cards that could be added to your loop (These are however for the more higher end cards like 1070 or 2060S) you also have the ability to (unlike the AIO's) add more than one Radiator to your loop allowing you to run more fans but at a lower speed (lower than 1000 RPM should be easy) and recently EK even has some tools for leak testing before you put liquid into your system Some pointers from me if you are willing to try this one day - Never run your pump without liquid in it !!! Never let it run dry !!! This will damage your Pump since it uses the Liquid to lubricated itself - Use a secondary (Or older) PSU when filling your loop to run the pump while filling (turning the pump on and off to circulate the liquid to the loop) you don't want power on your pc parts when doing this - make sure you have an easy way of draining the loop (always useful to have a valve that you can hook a tube onto and turn to empty your loop) - If you do this for the first time Soft tubing is the best way to go in combination with compression fittings (these have a ring thet screws onto the fitting holding the tubing in place) you might also want to look at some youtube channels that are into this Liquid cooling like Jays2cents and Ronsanut For example (The last one actually has A nice Leak show Video)
Thanks! For me custom water cooling is over-engineering a system and it becomes something else to troubleshoot. Although probably good fun in a hobby kind of way. I'd never be able to supply a custom water cooled system to a customer via a courier - it would never survive. And along with sorting out numpty customer issues i'd also probably have to be talking them through draining a water cooling system! Not fun. The AIO systems were awesome precisely because they were flawless and didnt put any weight on the processor socket - it reduced tech support rather than added to it. To do is personally in my own system would be interesting but i don't really have the time - i need to get on. These videos are for people who need help with the basics - so custom water cooling doesn't really fit :D
Only the lower end cpu's from AMD have integrated graphics. On the other hand, Intel have a lot of security vulnerability problems. It would be awesome if you could compare both cpu's performance for music production.
I have a question about this resistor "A resistor is defined by Ohm's Law, which states that V= IR, so a current flowing through a resistor HAS to cause a voltage to be developed across it. And we also know that power = V x I, so a current flowing through a resistor MUST dissipate power. The only way that power can manifest is as heat." Is this resistance small enough to negate that?
You're asking if the heat generated in a resistor designed to slow down a cooling fan is significant enough to ruin the cooling profile of the system as a whole? I'd say the impact was less than negligible .
Thanks for answering my questions I'm going to watch part 4 soon, I like how you dont just list the parts but also what they're for and close alternatives
Robin, could you please do a video explicitly on latency? I bought a dedicated ASUS laptop (SSD, 16GB, i7 Quadcore) with loads of ports, card readers and even a DVD drive (for sampling). Now, this should be perfect, but my latency on this thing is just not gonna work. Is it due to my audio interface? Could it be my DAW (Reason 10)? I mean it's like, "Stab...... BOOP! Stab...... BOOP!" Should I upgrade to 32 GB? I dunno what I need to do about this. I could go into my ASIO and go for the lowest bitrate and lowest latency, but it sounds like grizzled shite when I do that.
It's not going to be about your memory or processing power. It will be about your audio interface and your laptops ability to make room for it. Also check out this video for tweaking tips - ruclips.net/video/2B5C23-Ixvo/видео.html
I have a question, I like to add a Thunderbolt 3 card for an audio interface, is it possible with the PC cases you talked about? If yes, which thunderbolt 3 would you suggest?
Thunderbolt has to be part of the motherboard you've bought - you can't add Thunderbolt to a motherboard that doesn't already have it. It is very confusing because many Thunderbolt enabled boards need to have a card added in order for you to use it. So when you buy a motherboard make sure it has Thunderbolt already and then you can buy whatever card the motherboard requires in order to use it! The card goes in a PCI slot - the majority of cases have slots for PCI cards.
Whats the best way to remove eternal noise from the pc to your external dac. How to remove noise from USB port with clean information to your dac, how do you eliminate emi/or noise leaking into the circuit from your power supply to bring noise into the computer that affects sound quality, I heard no moving parts in a audio server is ideal
If you’re getting electrical interference inside your computer to the USB port then it can be a difficult thing to solve. Getting a better computer, or a better power supply might help. Use a power conditioner and get some better earthing on the power that’s going to your PC. Get an Earth-lift or hum eliminator for the audio outputs. Doesn’t really matter if parts are moving - it’s all about the earthing.
@@MoltenMusicTech i was looking a the mac mini to be my audio server go into the settings and turn off the things I will not be using to minimize what I'm using it for, on the other hand im not very knowledgeable on mac products and would like to do deal with Intel pc, but not I huge computer doing alot of things that I dont need, the only thing I will be using the pc for is to be a audio server to download music, play my audirvana in hi res sample rates with minimal moving parts, could you give me a direction on what to do and buy, I dont think I need a 650 watt power supply...I have a external dac the computer will be going to it will be using a USB cable
@@MoltenMusicTech I would like to find a better source other than the source im using now, currently I'm using a lap top that produces line noise because of all the moving parts and everything else a computer is doing, I want something that is simple but affective in storing, downloading, and playing true hi res audio with very little to no line noise in the signal path
Ah, well that’s an Earth loop. You can cure it by using a double insulated power supply or a hum eliminator - you need to lift the Earth. It has nothing to do with moving parts, it’s to do with voltage change which will happen whether parts move or not. If you get a regular PC with a half decent power supply you won’t have these issues. I did a video all about it ruclips.net/video/jSA2F1AwboU/видео.html
No, i was referring to the "silent" case fan. There are numerous ways to move heat from one place to another the issue is still with the cooling of that heat.
@@MoltenMusicTech OK, I was just indicating that a Peltier CPU cooler won't help with case cooling. I had a student build a completely Glycol cooled PC a few years ago. No air movement at all. ;)
@@MoltenMusicTech ok, you are right there is no easy way to technically define how loud a pc is. (It's not even part of the product specs) You probably need a spectrum analyzer to measure the sound levels at the different frequencies. If you do the same with your silent setup you can compare them. But using your ears would be much simpler but more subjective.
Sure but it would have nothing to do with someone else’s experience of the loudness of their PC. There is no honest and satisfactory answer to the question so the question becomes meaningless.
Friction? Most computer heat comes from the CPU. The smaller transistors are, the more heat they leak. The current size is something like 5 nanometers with the limit being 3.
Certainly not, no. Intel has built graphics into their desktop processors which are cool so there's no need for the motherboard to have it which works far better in terms of audio use. Workstation processors do not have graphics and workstation boards don't either so you'll need a separate graphics card. So years ago yes motherboards did have inbuilt graphics but they were always best avoided if you wanted to do low latency audio - they would glitch and pop and do horrible things.
Molten Music Technology Ah okay, thanks for that Robin. It’s been at least fifteen years since I last built a PC, so I’m well behind on the curve, and as a, dare I say it, long time Mac user, probably off it completely! 😆 Another great video though, cheers! 🍻
I'm in the uk - you can contact me through the website but i don't build computers anymore - that's why i put it all in the video so you can benefit from my experience without me having to remember it. All the best.
At last a video for us "sound focused" rather than gamers. And such a nice presentation. Well done and thanks!
Really looking forward to part 4.:-)
The Molten Audio PC you built me some years ago, is still performing brilliant, flawlessly and silently. One of my best buys ever. Love it. :)
Yay!
in terms of water cooling, i would get a cooling system with 2 by 120/140mm fans on a big radiator and not a single fan small radiator system... The other thing to remember is that all fans have a definite shelf life in your system, as the bearings wear out they make a high pitch sound... I tend to get 2 years use before changing...
You’re a genius. You should be awarded for your extensive Expertise.
Great summary from a builder with a long track record of professional audio PCs
Thanks to you I've decided to go with a threadripper build
GREAT. Looking forward to part 4. If that is as well done as this, it will be the best video on youtube explaining how to mount the components when putting together a PC!!
Back in't 90s I built a 1GHz Music PC with a Zalman Reserator passive watercooled CPU and GFX system.
Problem was the loss of airflow from the fans caused the motherboard chips to overheat ....
Ran fine for a while then cooked itself about 6 months in.
Yeah those resonators were a good idea but a bit unwieldy
Great job on this series. I hope you get to part 4 soon.
I concur! - the noisy cooling is proportional to power consumption, so getting a cpu with low tdp rating helps - also, there's no such thing as a quiet graphics card, so having a cpu with onboard gpu quiet things down a lot :)
Modern graphic cards, especially those with higher end cooling systems, completely turn off the fans during desktop use and only become audible during heavy 3D use. As for cases: The Fractal Design Define R series is the best you can get. The entire inside is covered with sound-dampening material, it still has bays for optical drives (for those who still need them), it doesn't look "gamer-y"; it costs around 150 quid, but it's absolutely worth it. My PC has an i7, a fairly top range graphics card, and is still dead silent, even at high system load. Dampened cases are amazing. Just make sure you're not taking a version with a stupid glass window on the side, which completely defeats the point.
Same here with a Fractal Design Define R6 tower case, Intel Core i7-8086K (4,0 GHz), be quiet! Dark Rock 4 cooler, Asus ROG Strix GeForce GTX1060-O6G gaming graphics card and SSDs only. The only times I can noticeably hear this machine is when playing games or doing more complex video editing. Otherwise it’s close to dead silent (the surroundings, my own movements and the clothes I’m wearing are way louder). I never heard it during music making.
To answer the question of AMD CPUs and their graphics capabilities:
AMD APUs are the versions that have integrated GFX capabilities (and to avoid any confusion, while the latest iterations in the Zen2 and Zen3 architectures are also called Ryzen - and are divided into the 5, 7 and 9 series respectively - They are identified with a G in their CPU model identifier e.g. the 5600G for the 5th gen Ryzen 5 APU vs the 5600 for the non-APU version).
Any MB that has an HDMI or other graphics port on it will be able to use an APU to perform the graphics calcs. For an audio build PC, this will most likely be the ideal solution if it's all you plan to do with it, or you perhaps plan to build a system that can also work with video editing or non-realtime graphics operations, as while the Radeon Vega based graphics components integrated onto the APUs are fairly decent for what they are, they're not dedicated graphics solutions (and never will be, just like Intel's Iris Pro or similar integrated graphics systems aren't).
Most of the APU solutions that AMD build, however, are intended for the mobile market, so the desktop based APU systems are limited in the range available (I've yet to see a Ryzen 9 APU, for example - they're normally limited to the 3, 5 and 7 series)
AMD parts like Threadripper and EPYC do not have any sort of integrated graphics. All of their processor die are dedicated to the CPU and any integrated control logic they require. And let's face it... If you're building a Threadripper (or TR Pro, to say nothing of EPYC) based system, you're not going to skimp on the graphics solutions, are you?
My experience is in enthusiast building of various types of PCs across the last 25 years, mostly with AMD hardware starting back in the AMD Athlon days. My current build is a Threadripper, and I'm looking at a WRX80 build sometime in the next year.
VERY engaging series. Excellent speaker, in depth information. Love it.
Much appreciated!
I've been struggling with using Ableton live 10 along with Native Instruments Maschine mk3 on a 13 year old Dell XPS desktop PC running under Windows 7. After watching your "Build an audio PC" series, I've decided to pull the trigger and go all in to get the biggest baddest PC I could buy. ASUS workstation motherboard with an i9 processor, 128 gig memory and 1TB M.2 card for operating system along with all audio software. A humble 2 TB mechanical HD for data storage, all wrapped up in a "Be Quiet!" full size tower outfitted with a 1000 watt power supply. I know it is probably way overkill for what it is mostly being used for but I may play an occasional game or two on it. I have built may PCs in my lifetime and thought I was done doing so but this one will probably do me for the rest of my life.
Sounds awesome
The sound of silence..... O.k. 3 videos of this series down, might as well keep watching... going for video number 4. 👍👍👍
Built my audio computer a few years ago with quiet running in mind. Define R4, 150mm CPU fan, passively-cooled GPU and....... a WD Black hard disk. Sounded like a geiger counter at the site of a terrible accident.
Ended up swapping it out for a Green which was much better noise-wise and really not that much slower in real world use. Now that SSDs have came down in price a lot I'm using one of those instead.
I help reduce my pc noise by keeping it far away... long usb cords.. my pc is about 14 ft away, used usb extension cords also for audio interface, keyboard and a wireless mouse and of course an extended hdmi cable
Sounds expensive
Thank you for this series!!
love this series. thank you. Big Ups!
Amazing series ...I learned a lot! ....Thank you!
Great video! Thanks for the food for thought. I am contemplating ditching Mac, and this makes it a little more appealing to do so.
You could hackintosh it if windows doesn't cut it. That's what I did.
@@wescoast Is that still a viable option with all the service integration they are planning? (icloud, iphotos, app store etc.)
I would say it’s a very hard and tiresome thing to do - but people like a challenge
@@robertsyrett1992 I guess that depends more on your needs. If you're someone who upgrades to every latest OS you might be in for a bumpy ride, yes. All I'm saying is that currently, it is an option. I don't upgrade often so for me it works just fine. I just made sure to get compatible hardware.
That little case is perfect for a master/slave set up
Thanks again! Awesome video, I lust after a new PC like this build but cannot justify it as I am a penniless nobody. Your tip here about checking fan speeds against performance is most excellent! I use a 7 year old (higher end) Xeon ThinkStation with 64 Gig DDR3 RAM and an upgraded fan. It's not too bad in terms of noise and I should point out that it has never crashed and never missed a single blip.......but.....I just scored an HD24 in good condition and a decent desk, looking for some decent compressors etc, I might try and leave the PC altogether for a while once I have a decent chain set up ; ]
Don't forget grounding to avoid another kind of noise :D
I really liked this video! Excellent work.
When will we see part 4?
Probably next week
@@MoltenMusicTech: Great! Planning to build an audio PC for my son after black Friday so it will come in very handy.
He does some video rendering too so I will go for a more powerful graphics card though. Trying to figure out what graphics card to buy. Unfortunately most videos are for gamers.
@@MoltenMusicTech Perfect timing - black friday is coming :-)
Great series-very informative
Again Nice video ... You should try a Custom loop once ... AIO's tent to have noisier pumps than what you can use for a custom loop and are most of the time limited on radiator size
personally I would recommend A triple Radiator (360 or 420) or larger since this will give a larger amount of space to cool allowing you to run fan's at lower speeds (If your case allows this sizes)
if you would like to look in to this I would recommend EK Water blocks they have a wide range of different products and even have complete kits to get you started
The best part is that they also have blocks for a lot of different Graphics cards that could be added to your loop (These are however for the more higher end cards like 1070 or 2060S)
you also have the ability to (unlike the AIO's) add more than one Radiator to your loop allowing you to run more fans but at a lower speed (lower than 1000 RPM should be easy)
and recently EK even has some tools for leak testing before you put liquid into your system
Some pointers from me if you are willing to try this one day
- Never run your pump without liquid in it !!! Never let it run dry !!! This will damage your Pump since it uses the Liquid to lubricated itself
- Use a secondary (Or older) PSU when filling your loop to run the pump while filling (turning the pump on and off to circulate the liquid to the loop) you don't want power on your pc parts when doing this
- make sure you have an easy way of draining the loop (always useful to have a valve that you can hook a tube onto and turn to empty your loop)
- If you do this for the first time Soft tubing is the best way to go in combination with compression fittings (these have a ring thet screws onto the fitting holding the tubing in place)
you might also want to look at some youtube channels that are into this Liquid cooling like Jays2cents and Ronsanut For example (The last one actually has A nice Leak show Video)
Thanks! For me custom water cooling is over-engineering a system and it becomes something else to troubleshoot. Although probably good fun in a hobby kind of way. I'd never be able to supply a custom water cooled system to a customer via a courier - it would never survive. And along with sorting out numpty customer issues i'd also probably have to be talking them through draining a water cooling system! Not fun. The AIO systems were awesome precisely because they were flawless and didnt put any weight on the processor socket - it reduced tech support rather than added to it.
To do is personally in my own system would be interesting but i don't really have the time - i need to get on. These videos are for people who need help with the basics - so custom water cooling doesn't really fit :D
Only the lower end cpu's from AMD have integrated graphics. On the other hand, Intel have a lot of security vulnerability problems. It would be awesome if you could compare both cpu's performance for music production.
Yeah, not going to happen 🍻😬💣😁
Hi.. Is the next instalment on its way?
The next instalment is in a couple of boxes on the floor - I just need to find the time to build it and film it. Give me another week or two?
8:10 "if you add a case to a fan" ah shit, I've been doing it wrong all this time then xD
Will there be a part 4?
Yes, I have the parts right here to build, just got to find a spare hour or two.
Great looking video content. Assume you did a great deal of your very own video coding.
Not sure what that means but thanks
Thanks for the info. Do you have any builds or recommended examples on PC parts picker?
No, I don't know what that is
I have a question about this resistor
"A resistor is defined by Ohm's Law, which states that V= IR, so a current flowing through a resistor HAS to cause a voltage to be developed across it. And we also know that power = V x I, so a current flowing through a resistor MUST dissipate power. The only way that power can manifest is as heat."
Is this resistance small enough to negate that?
What resistor are you talking about?
@@MoltenMusicTech the one for the fan to slow it down and make it quieter
You're asking if the heat generated in a resistor designed to slow down a cooling fan is significant enough to ruin the cooling profile of the system as a whole? I'd say the impact was less than negligible .
Thanks for answering my questions I'm going to watch part 4 soon, I like how you dont just list the parts but also what they're for and close alternatives
Great Stuff!
Robin, could you please do a video explicitly on latency? I bought a dedicated ASUS laptop (SSD, 16GB, i7 Quadcore) with loads of ports, card readers and even a DVD drive (for sampling). Now, this should be perfect, but my latency on this thing is just not gonna work. Is it due to my audio interface? Could it be my DAW (Reason 10)? I mean it's like, "Stab...... BOOP! Stab...... BOOP!" Should I upgrade to 32 GB? I dunno what I need to do about this. I could go into my ASIO and go for the lowest bitrate and lowest latency, but it sounds like grizzled shite when I do that.
Yes, here you go - Latency - The Ultimate Guide ruclips.net/video/ojnnP_GXNaM/видео.html
It's not going to be about your memory or processing power. It will be about your audio interface and your laptops ability to make room for it. Also check out this video for tweaking tips - ruclips.net/video/2B5C23-Ixvo/видео.html
I have a question, I like to add a Thunderbolt 3 card for an audio interface, is it possible with the PC cases you talked about? If yes, which thunderbolt 3 would you suggest?
Thunderbolt has to be part of the motherboard you've bought - you can't add Thunderbolt to a motherboard that doesn't already have it. It is very confusing because many Thunderbolt enabled boards need to have a card added in order for you to use it. So when you buy a motherboard make sure it has Thunderbolt already and then you can buy whatever card the motherboard requires in order to use it! The card goes in a PCI slot - the majority of cases have slots for PCI cards.
Whats the best way to remove eternal noise from the pc to your external dac. How to remove noise from USB port with clean information to your dac, how do you eliminate emi/or noise leaking into the circuit from your power supply to bring noise into the computer that affects sound quality, I heard no moving parts in a audio server is ideal
If you’re getting electrical interference inside your computer to the USB port then it can be a difficult thing to solve. Getting a better computer, or a better power supply might help. Use a power conditioner and get some better earthing on the power that’s going to your PC. Get an Earth-lift or hum eliminator for the audio outputs. Doesn’t really matter if parts are moving - it’s all about the earthing.
@@MoltenMusicTech i was looking a the mac mini to be my audio server go into the settings and turn off the things I will not be using to minimize what I'm using it for, on the other hand im not very knowledgeable on mac products and would like to do deal with Intel pc, but not I huge computer doing alot of things that I dont need, the only thing I will be using the pc for is to be a audio server to download music, play my audirvana in hi res sample rates with minimal moving parts, could you give me a direction on what to do and buy, I dont think I need a 650 watt power supply...I have a external dac the computer will be going to it will be using a USB cable
So.... are you having a problem with noise or are you assuming you’ll have one?
@@MoltenMusicTech I would like to find a better source other than the source im using now, currently I'm using a lap top that produces line noise because of all the moving parts and everything else a computer is doing, I want something that is simple but affective in storing, downloading, and playing true hi res audio with very little to no line noise in the signal path
Ah, well that’s an Earth loop. You can cure it by using a double insulated power supply or a hum eliminator - you need to lift the Earth. It has nothing to do with moving parts, it’s to do with voltage change which will happen whether parts move or not. If you get a regular PC with a half decent power supply you won’t have these issues. I did a video all about it ruclips.net/video/jSA2F1AwboU/видео.html
Peltier CPU/GPU coolers are silent, you still need a silent case fan though.
If you're moving air then it's not going to be silent
@@MoltenMusicTech Peltier effect does not move air, it transfers heat energy silently. You might want to research it.
No, i was referring to the "silent" case fan. There are numerous ways to move heat from one place to another the issue is still with the cooling of that heat.
@@MoltenMusicTech OK, I was just indicating that a Peltier CPU cooler won't help with case cooling. I had a student build a completely Glycol cooled PC a few years ago. No air movement at all. ;)
That is so good, thank you.
How quiet is it?
Can't you just measure the sound level in dB and compare it with a stock pc?
How loud is a stock pc?
@@MoltenMusicTech ok, you are right there is no easy way to technically define how loud a pc is. (It's not even part of the product specs) You probably need a spectrum analyzer to measure the sound levels at the different frequencies. If you do the same with your silent setup you can compare them. But using your ears would be much simpler but more subjective.
Sure but it would have nothing to do with someone else’s experience of the loudness of their PC. There is no honest and satisfactory answer to the question so the question becomes meaningless.
Friction? Most computer heat comes from the CPU. The smaller transistors are, the more heat they leak. The current size is something like 5 nanometers with the limit being 3.
Yeah and they're moving really really fast!
Its the other way round ;)
It's like a billion tiny hamster wheels
Yeah.. with Japanese micro professors running around really fast - but smaller lanes makes less resistance = less power and/or higher speed
Slippery
Like a Dyson hand dryer! Lol!! Classic
Thanks
You are welcome, and your support is much appreciated
Don't most modern motherboards have integrated graphics these days?
Certainly not, no. Intel has built graphics into their desktop processors which are cool so there's no need for the motherboard to have it which works far better in terms of audio use. Workstation processors do not have graphics and workstation boards don't either so you'll need a separate graphics card. So years ago yes motherboards did have inbuilt graphics but they were always best avoided if you wanted to do low latency audio - they would glitch and pop and do horrible things.
Molten Music Technology Ah okay, thanks for that Robin. It’s been at least fifteen years since I last built a PC, so I’m well behind on the curve, and as a, dare I say it, long time Mac user, probably off it completely! 😆 Another great video though, cheers! 🍻
Hi do you have an email address where I can correspond with you to build a pc or a workshop that you do? Where are you based? Thanks
I'm in the uk - you can contact me through the website but i don't build computers anymore - that's why i put it all in the video so you can benefit from my experience without me having to remember it. All the best.
I put my computer inside a plastic bag then hang it outside my window. Sorted.
How to deal with noise: make a lot of it
Next bit please....this build is waiting with baited breath and its getting noisy......
like yer pojames mate
Ta Sir x
Alternatively, use a laptop. ;)
Bloody noisy laptops are the bane of my life
@@MoltenMusicTech lol