I think many of us went through the phase of "If I get the most expensive gun my jobs will be perfect" LOL! Then we learned to throw away the "cook book" settings and find whatever settings work best for the gun you have.
Ospho is good stuff but expensive cause of name brand.. Concrete prep and etch at home depot same thing only $20 gal... Even better milk stone remover used to clean milk containers at farms is 80% phosporic acid excellent at treating rust buy at your local feed store aka tractor supply.
You should probably constantly remind people that when using the sct counter , don't put pressure or keep it in one area too long. I completely stripped my 92 gmc down to metal with that tool. It is so easy to overheat and warp your metal if you're new to it or you're not careful. But when used correctly its a great tool. I see so many people that dont understand how quickly things can go wrong with thin sheet metal.
So far I've been having good success with sealer even in cold temperatures, for me the benefits outweigh the downsides for the finish I always use sealer over a repair..
Amazing as always, I just want to say though for diy guys like me before you start all of this try searching for a used door/panel, I was about to do this to my car and found a door online no rust no dents for 15$ 😂, so yeah before you put in the work and effort there could be a smarter way. Anyways keep up the good work.
Another great video, Brian. I think I'll practice on my neighbors car before I do my own. They won't notice. Oh Brian... the whole open mouth fake-shocked thumbnail thing? Yeah, it's so 2023. 🙂
@@100amps nah. Its 1993! Kevin! From home alone. My families favorite movie, decided we would make it the thumbnail for the month of December for the holidays
Hey Brian. Here in the rust belt I would grind as you did. Then sand blast the area. I had a sand blasting gun for the small areas. Worked like a dream. Just wanted to share this. Cheers take care.
I find you do get a better finish when you wet up your base coat, then you can just turn up your pressure and drop it back and do an orientation coat directly after your last wet coat, I notice doing it this way you don’t see so much of a texture up close under your clear in your base coat on colors like silver , but the con is it takes way more paint.
Interesting! I’ve heard the gunman talk about wet on wet primer a lot. Didn’t know he was talking about sealer. I like that Honda. I don’t know that model. Great looking repair as always!
Well I guess I’m too old school but, I like the rougher sanded/ground metal to put my filler over. BTW, I always use 12” paper near the paint edge, I have had that plastic to let the overspray turn loose and end up in the paint job. It may have never happened to you but, sooner or later it will.
I worked in a body shop for 10 years in late 90s early 00s ....and the guy who taught me how to paint ....would never paint with just plastic sheeting .....same reason ....always 12in paper near area to be painted ...we would cover with plastic and then cut out around repair areas then paper back to plastic ....and he got some clean jobs ...
It will 100% flake off if it doesn't adhere to the plastic..... Paper edge from now till I die... Fool me once shame on you, fool.me twice shame on ME.
Back in the early 80s we used newspaper an tiger hair, the newspaper was to hold the tiger hair in place till it dried after we had cut the rusted metal out, no one had welders
What do you mean by pretty good bro? A 10 feet or 10mph like the dude on 1 of the other channel's..lol I watch that channel every now and then just to shake my head alot as i really watch you and take Everything you say to the bank and the things i do turn out awesome... But maybe that dude could learn something from you and shoot for just 1 really nice job... Just 1... I know you know who im talking about as he mentions you sometimes but i just got a good laugh when you said pretty good in this video i immediately thought of him.... Lol Keep up the Awesome work Brian!!!
Marco and I talk often and honestly I enjoy watching his channel because it’s just a little bit different from everyone else else’s, makes things much more entertaining!
@PaintSociety i agree it does.... Like the spit and shoot and many other sayings.... Great job on this and hopefully alot of us added more knowledge to our arsenal! Thanks again for what you do!
As a guy that does restoration work ...... Do not body work bare metal. Yes I was taught that when in school and grew up in a body shop .... But now as I will do $1k paint jobs to $40k restoration work after it's in bare metal. I clean it and epoxy primer it. Then block 180g to body work on to the epoxy. Always use a epoxy primer on bare metal first. Always.
@kenmastersmaster I never use etch. Don't buy it. I use rage filler. Id. If it's dtm or not. Epoxy primer 100% seals any and all moisture from the metal or getting to the metal. Plus it's a harder primer to chip to cause rusting. That's why. Want a better longer lasting body work and paint. Epoxy first m then body work. Then urethane 2k primer then before paint I'll mix the epoxy primer to a 4:1:2.5 with mr188 very slower reducer to make a sealer from the epoxy primer. That why from bare metal to finished body work is 100% incased in epoxy. Once sealer is down then base and clear.
There are many different fillers, the green stuff he initially puts on is a sealing filler, similar to metal2metal. Both are very hard to sand. Rage and similar light weight fillers are porous and muuuuccch easier to sand. Those are the ones you don't put right on the metal.
Do you have any videos explaining how to take off window trim and weather seal, I’m having trouble getting rid of adhesive so I can sand by my window area
Brian Would it have been better to use body filler over epoxy or does it not matter? Do you think direct to metal body filler will cause rust problems? Instead of sealer just go straight to base?
Rust in them pits will always come back no matter what rust treatment you use the best way is hand held sand blaster its messy and goes everywhere but to get rid of rust properly is blast out or cut out the hand held blaster will not ripple the panel liike a hi cfm blaster could I've been doing it that way 20 years and do still see car Van's I've done no bubbly filler .
@kevinspringall7896 @PaintSociety Do you guys actually use sand, or cullet? I’ve never blasted anything as important as a car, but have always been told (and believe) that you should use cullet because it is inert to paint and metal. And by the very nature of a sandblaster, the surface will never be 100% free of the media you use again. Thoughts?
I am doing a resto on a 1998 ext cab s10 i am building ....going to paint it myself at home ....i worked for over 10 years in a autobody shop in late 90s early 00s ....didnt go to school for it but anyways .....my question is i would like to seal it ...trucks red ...probably go back red and maybe add some pearls to my clear coat ....if i do seal it and get some trash which i will more than likely ...can i not just wet sand it with 600 ...prep again and shoot my paint ...plan on even wet sanding my paint before i clear ....and i will be putting 3 coats clear ....then blocking all of it down with 600 or 800 then doing 2 to 3 more coats clear ....will be watersanding and buffing as well ...
@PaintSociety my main concern about using the electric tools , is more of a concern about the heat the create on a panel, the dust from body fillers may not be the best for electric tools themselves , plus they tend to throw materials they sand off further and if you have other cars near by that may become a issue. But the worst is the weight electric tools are generally much heavier then their air powered counterparts
Why do you feel the need to present such a childish rediculous pose on a thumbnail? For views? It’s just paint. Hollywood theatrics not needed. Thumbnail looks like a surprised 12 year old Girl. Good Grief Charlie Brown, keep it real.
Home alone is my most favorite movie ever and since it’s the holidays, I thought that I would have a little fun, thank you so much for an amazing comment and I’m so glad I was able to make your day
The shine on this one I believe was one of the best if not the best. It looks like this black has those deep purple tones. Does that purple help make that black pop better under the light? I've watch the end a couple 4 time. what is the paint number for black
I love it when people screw stuff up and you show the 100% right way to fix it . Amazing job brother !!!!!
I am just happy the bondo was contained to one area!
I love the tag line "Don't over think it, it's just paint."
Watching your videos has given me the curiosity/courage to paint my car myself.
I think many of us went through the phase of "If I get the most expensive gun my jobs will be perfect" LOL! Then we learned to throw away the "cook book" settings and find whatever settings work best for the gun you have.
Ospho is good stuff but expensive cause of name brand.. Concrete prep and etch at home depot same thing only $20 gal... Even better milk stone remover used to clean milk containers at farms is 80% phosporic acid excellent at treating rust buy at your local feed store aka tractor supply.
Only $40 for the gallon and used for metal ❤
Can you use toilet cleaner with limescale remover? That seems very high acid, can burn your skin?
You should probably constantly remind people that when using the sct counter , don't put pressure or keep it in one area too long. I completely stripped my 92 gmc down to metal with that tool. It is so easy to overheat and warp your metal if you're new to it or you're not careful. But when used correctly its a great tool. I see so many people that dont understand how quickly things can go wrong with thin sheet metal.
So far I've been having good success with sealer even in cold temperatures, for me the benefits outweigh the downsides for the finish I always use sealer over a repair..
Great work yet again Brian 👏🏻 love that you always do a proper job
Thank you so much 😀
Amazing as always, I just want to say though for diy guys like me before you start all of this try searching for a used door/panel, I was about to do this to my car and found a door online no rust no dents for 15$ 😂, so yeah before you put in the work and effort there could be a smarter way. Anyways keep up the good work.
The thumbnail is hilarious because you look just like "The Scream" by Edvard Munch.
At time 6:49 -I personally prefer to apply epoxy first before fiberglass for the best result
Here in the netherlands sealer is indeed called wet on wet primer. It's basically a much reduced primer.
Great video as always ….. 👍🏻💪🏻
Another great video, Brian. I think I'll practice on my neighbors car before I do my own. They won't notice. Oh Brian... the whole open mouth fake-shocked thumbnail thing? Yeah, it's so 2023. 🙂
@@100amps nah. Its 1993! Kevin! From home alone. My families favorite movie, decided we would make it the thumbnail for the month of December for the holidays
Ospho is phosphoric acid, not zinc.
I swear Cintas keeps the pants on purpose. I never get back as many as I turn in, glad to hear it's not just me!
Ha! I had lost some lb so i needed a smaller size and it took 3 weeks because they lost all my old pants
Hey Brian. Here in the rust belt I would grind as you did. Then sand blast the area. I had a sand blasting gun for the small areas. Worked like a dream. Just wanted to share this. Cheers take care.
Can you do that safely in a spray booth Jim?
You can get that grinding drum in a disk also and does the same good job but it might be dusty
The Crz is such a cool car
I find you do get a better finish when you wet up your base coat, then you can just turn up your pressure and drop it back and do an orientation coat directly after your last wet coat, I notice doing it this way you don’t see so much of a texture up close under your clear in your base coat on colors like silver , but the con is it takes way more paint.
If you cant get OSPHO in your area, just use any product that contains Phosphoric acid, a lot of rust inhibitors contain that same ingredient.
lovely job
My Corvair runs on Ospho🤣. I'm still not done with Rusty, floor boards, cut off two rear fenders, and more🤢. Ospho is great!
Interesting! I’ve heard the gunman talk about wet on wet primer a lot. Didn’t know he was talking about sealer. I like that Honda. I don’t know that model. Great looking repair as always!
CR-Z is the model
@ yeah he said that in the beginning. I just never knew it existed. I’m a Toyota guy but I like some of the older Hondas
Wow... I sure want to do what you do !
Well I guess I’m too old school but, I like the rougher sanded/ground metal to put my filler over. BTW, I always use 12” paper near the paint edge, I have had that plastic to let the overspray turn loose and end up in the paint job. It may have never happened to you but, sooner or later it will.
I worked in a body shop for 10 years in late 90s early 00s ....and the guy who taught me how to paint ....would never paint with just plastic sheeting .....same reason ....always 12in paper near area to be painted ...we would cover with plastic and then cut out around repair areas then paper back to plastic ....and he got some clean jobs ...
The plastic sheeting has a treated side. It will never flake.
@ yeah that’s what I used and what I thought but yeah
It will 100% flake off if it doesn't adhere to the plastic..... Paper edge from now till I die... Fool me once shame on you, fool.me twice shame on ME.
Back in the early 80s we used newspaper an tiger hair, the newspaper was to hold the tiger hair in place till it dried after we had cut the rusted metal out, no one had welders
That must have been before Tigers became a protected species?🤔
It was a great job, step by step without skipping a step thanks, can I ask you what setting you use on the iwata for the clear coat?
I do alot of dealer work. I bet 50% of the cars I work on have had body work in the past. Most of it has to be re-done.
But Brian I'm a quarter panel guy. Always got to be careful to not get any runs
Maybe put a couple of space heaters in the booth to dry
(The spray booth has fully adjustable heating of course)
What do you mean by pretty good bro? A 10 feet or 10mph like the dude on 1 of the other channel's..lol
I watch that channel every now and then just to shake my head alot as i really watch you and take Everything you say to the bank and the things i do turn out awesome... But maybe that dude could learn something from you and shoot for just 1 really nice job... Just 1... I know you know who im talking about as he mentions you sometimes but i just got a good laugh when you said pretty good in this video i immediately thought of him.... Lol
Keep up the Awesome work Brian!!!
Marco and I talk often and honestly I enjoy watching his channel because it’s just a little bit different from everyone else else’s, makes things much more entertaining!
@PaintSociety i agree it does.... Like the spit and shoot and many other sayings.... Great job on this and hopefully alot of us added more knowledge to our arsenal! Thanks again for what you do!
You haven't had any problems putting filler over Ospho?
As a guy that does restoration work ...... Do not body work bare metal. Yes I was taught that when in school and grew up in a body shop .... But now as I will do $1k paint jobs to $40k restoration work after it's in bare metal. I clean it and epoxy primer it. Then block 180g to body work on to the epoxy. Always use a epoxy primer on bare metal first. Always.
Why not etch? What about filler that is direct to metal?
@kenmastersmaster I never use etch. Don't buy it. I use rage filler. Id. If it's dtm or not. Epoxy primer 100% seals any and all moisture from the metal or getting to the metal. Plus it's a harder primer to chip to cause rusting. That's why. Want a better longer lasting body work and paint. Epoxy first m then body work. Then urethane 2k primer then before paint I'll mix the epoxy primer to a 4:1:2.5 with mr188 very slower reducer to make a sealer from the epoxy primer. That why from bare metal to finished body work is 100% incased in epoxy. Once sealer is down then base and clear.
@@MidnightCustoms111 so you use epoxy primer twice? Once before body work and once after 2k primer as a sealer? Or underneath 2k primer?
There are many different fillers, the green stuff he initially puts on is a sealing filler, similar to metal2metal. Both are very hard to sand. Rage and similar light weight fillers are porous and muuuuccch easier to sand. Those are the ones you don't put right on the metal.
Do you treat the bare metal with an rust converter?
Do you have any videos explaining how to take off window trim and weather seal, I’m having trouble getting rid of adhesive so I can sand by my window area
Brian
Would it have been better to use body filler over epoxy or does it not matter? Do you think direct to metal body filler will cause rust problems?
Instead of sealer just go straight to base?
Rust in them pits will always come back no matter what rust treatment you use the best way is hand held sand blaster its messy and goes everywhere but to get rid of rust properly is blast out or cut out the hand held blaster will not ripple the panel liike a hi cfm blaster could I've been doing it that way 20 years and do still see car Van's I've done no bubbly filler .
Funny you say that. I ended up getting my first hand held sand blaster. We ended up using it on this car off camera, it sure is a mess! But works nice
@kevinspringall7896
@PaintSociety
Do you guys actually use sand, or cullet? I’ve never blasted anything as important as a car, but have always been told (and believe) that you should use cullet because it is inert to paint and metal. And by the very nature of a sandblaster, the surface will never be 100% free of the media you use again. Thoughts?
Brian are you use the sikkens solvent clear coat man it looks great.
I think you should paint my 2004 mustang gt convertible sonic blue.
Great video. New to painting. I need to take a Willys jeep down to bare metal. So, Ospho, Light sand, Bondo, then prime? Thanks.
If it’s regular, Bondo, make sure you epoxy prime first
@@PaintSociety Upol fibral lite is what I am using.
Why in this case would you initially go the zinc brush on over an epoxy primer?
Artist
The greatest ever 👍👍👍👍
I am doing a resto on a 1998 ext cab s10 i am building ....going to paint it myself at home ....i worked for over 10 years in a autobody shop in late 90s early 00s ....didnt go to school for it but anyways .....my question is i would like to seal it ...trucks red ...probably go back red and maybe add some pearls to my clear coat ....if i do seal it and get some trash which i will more than likely ...can i not just wet sand it with 600 ...prep again and shoot my paint ...plan on even wet sanding my paint before i clear ....and i will be putting 3 coats clear ....then blocking all of it down with 600 or 800 then doing 2 to 3 more coats clear ....will be watersanding and buffing as well ...
They actually got that black door pretty straight for the amount of mud on there! Lol.
2 coats 90% sanded off
Any particular reason for covering the cup with masking tape ?
So no old caked up paint from the cup flakes off into the paint job
We call sealer, non sanding primer
Both sanders are a bad choice , I would never use electric tools to do body work at , for rust I would use my Dry Ice Blaster
Thanks for your input!
@PaintSociety my main concern about using the electric tools , is more of a concern about the heat the create on a panel, the dust from body fillers may not be the best for electric tools themselves , plus they tend to throw materials they sand off further and if you have other cars near by that may become a issue. But the worst is the weight electric tools are generally much heavier then their air powered counterparts
You never mention SATA guns - is there a reason or just preference?
I never use them. Not my style. 😀
Seems like a LOT of body filler
?
@ the original repair that you had to fix
Judgment day l😅😅😂😂
Haha! The one you helped me on really helped me on this one
@PaintSociety 🙌🙌
Why do you feel the need to present such a childish rediculous pose on a thumbnail? For views? It’s just paint. Hollywood theatrics not needed. Thumbnail looks like a surprised 12 year old Girl. Good Grief Charlie Brown, keep it real.
Home alone is my most favorite movie ever and since it’s the holidays, I thought that I would have a little fun, thank you so much for an amazing comment and I’m so glad I was able to make your day
@ You’re welcome.
Mayor of frown town
How do you know what is judgement day? Are you christian?
The shine on this one I believe was one of the best if not the best. It looks like this black has those deep purple tones. Does that purple help make that black pop better under the light? I've watch the end a couple 4 time. what is the paint number for black
Paint code pb95p