THIS Is a Bad Idea // Artillery Hornet Review
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The Artillery Hornet 3d printer checks a lot of boxes and works well once dialed in, but it's newest patent-pending feature is also the worst, and ultimately it's downfall.
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From the episode:
Artillery3D HORNET & Peet's Coffee - FIRST PRINTS & PRIZES!
• Artillery3D HORNET & P...
Bryan Vines BV3D - Install Ferrules on Ender-3 V2 Wiring
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Does This $299 3D Printer Make The Grade? Artillery3D GENIUS Review
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Guess you could remove the nozzle and force stuff through, but it's a super short sighted idea!
what about using standard cables to extend the cables to the hot end while keeping the cable bundle thing plugged into the extruder stepper side, then you could access the hot end with the bowden disconnected i guess
Tinned wire ends are not better then just the wire. The opposite is true, under pressure tin 'creeps' and so tinned wires may become loose if you connect them with those screw blocks.
Yup 100% this. Tinned wires are an absolute MASSIVE fire hazard.
yep
Tinned wires in screw terminals are worse than bare wire even tbh
Though a ferrule is the best solution
4:25 A perfect depiction of me. Thank you Joel. 😊
They should make a debug adapter, that can be attached between the special cable and the hotend and let you connect elentronics but have an open tube for filament.
Yeah, exactly.
YES. That would be great. Or heck, modify this cable to do that. I dunno. I do like this solution.
hi, after 2 years, someone made it?
Best review I’ve seen on this printer yet! Really sums it all up
excellent review 👌😎 Mine is also on the way. Just an idea, I know it’s not easy but have you tried doing a cold pull through the bowden? I successfully did than on other printers.
And I agree with your proposals, especially the colored touchscreen.
I agree with Joel. See the thing about experience is that the more you have... the more you know. I've done cold pulls and hot pulls on bowdens and direct drives... never had a problem... until I had a problem. Filament got stuck in the bowden, had to eventually cut open the tube to see what went wrong and realized that it would never have gone through. Anyway I replaced the tube, back in business no biggie and no major expense. Now imagine you live in Alaska, or Zimbabwe or the Amazon. The hornet umbilical is a specialized part... in a critical failure prone area. Look at the stepper drive for comparison. - That is something that shouldn't fail frequently, and yet it was easy to source and replace. Nope if they want to ship with an umbilical, they should at least supply two spares with each unit. They have reduced their sales footprint by introducing a market spares barrier. REnault 5 - pull the engine to replace the spark plugs... facepalm.
idea: troubleshooting cable that has a hole near the hotend for access for filament/cold pulls, but also has a connection to the controller. ezpz
hornet + genius = hornius
That's really great info on proprietary cable, such maintenance issue never crossed my mind when looking at the Hornet.
How easy can the whole hotend/cable can be replaced? Maybe it is good for someone who don’t want to troubleshoot all those things. Just replace the whole extruder and it’s done.
You should be able to fix your machine when it breaks. You know, instead of having to wait to have something shipped from the other side of the planet to you and wait.
@@davidtobin if waiting time is an issue, I would just hold a replacement on hand. Same like I do right now but with a lot less separate parts.
Joel, tinned wires are worse than bare wires. Tin/lead will cold flow aka creep and the tension on the clamp is decrease overtime and eventually you'll end up with a loose wire dangling around in your control box
What you need is an adapter "cable" that is "open", so you can route the power but have an open slot to get to the end of the bowden for heating and cold pulls, etc. Don't thing that would be too hard to make - AND INCLUDE with the printer.
They should include a "maintenance adapter". Disconnect the main tube and put the adapter in line. Itd leave the hot end open while maintaining the electrical connections
I just can't understand why people don't use filters on the filament just before it goes into extruder. One simple no-dust cloth and a zip tie clamped around a filament. I had zero nozzle clogs since I use filters on all my filament's.
3:05 If the wire moves regularly (say, it's connected to the build plate of a Prusa-style printer), tinning the end will shorten its lifespan because the wire will break inside the insulation where the solder wicked up. This is why it is _always_ a good idea to use a crimped ferrule in a screw terminal connector or even a spring-loaded one like a Wago.
GREAT info thank you!
Yea for Bryan Vines! Oh, and yea for Joel too. ;)
Thanks for the review! Guess this printer works great for "out of box" printing with minor tuning and fixing except if you are into modding and furture upgrading.
1. hot glue components underneath (big headache when it comes to modding)
2. weird "all in one" proprietory cable (what a turnoff!)
3. glass bed is fine but not when hot glue to the metal plate (OMG! whoever think of this shit?). just use metal fasterners ..cheap and easy to remove.
I remember when you could drop a quarter in the engine bay of a car and find it on the ground. Now a a thin dime would get lost in the first foot.
Username checks out
@@infernaldaedra truth hurts?
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Nah not really it was meant to be a silly joke but you have an extremely valid point I had a old air cooled straight block engine and there wasn't much there but a starter, cooling fan and a couple hoses and wires. Was it easy to work on, hellyes.
But there wasn't really much comfort and it didn't have any of the tech that any newer vehicle would. I still think vehicles should be designed in a way where they are easy to maintain and on newer vehicles its a right PIA to remove 10 parts to replace something simple.
@@infernaldaedra eh, it's cool. Just woke up and brain wasn't working. 🤦🏼
I wouldn’t want a printer I can’t get parts for let alone one with a part I can’t clean. Good call on not recommending it. Price is a bit high as well for the features.
So you don't want to be able to get parts or clean the parts? How does that make sense?
@@Graham_Wideman - can’t not can. Autocorrection error. I fixed it.
Classic RUclips, I just ordered it this video pops up, oh well I'll see how it will be
Can you do a review of the Voxelab Aquila?
could you achieve a cold-pull by heating it with cables attached, then turn off the 110VAC, unscrew the connectors and haul on the now exposed filament? The hot-end will float downwards in temperature once power is removed, but not that quickly.. right?
Not a big deal. Just warm up head, then disconnect whole thing and pull. Warm up to about 150decC and pull. makes clean pull every time for me. no need to purge without cable attached.
Patent pending Boden tube assembly? Isn't the entire reason they can make this printer is because other manufacturers aren't patterning innovations? Seems like a reason I'd pass on purchasing this one.
It's not a flaw, it's a feature :D Thats kinda stupid, the idear is good, but they should have made it in two cables
I see the Artillery 2.0 coming soon with a different cable solution.
Is it the best worst idea ever? Or, could it be the WORST BEST idea ever?
You decide. The choice is yours. You have the power!
This a classic example of what 'innovation' often turns out to be - a point of difference from competing products with little to no practical value. Marketing loves this kind of nonsense.
Everybody said the problem was in speed or acceleration.
Combine a Hornet and Genius? You could call it the Heinus!
11:50 Not made for horses? I can test that !
So wait, how did you unclogged it?
I heated up the hot end, then quickly unscrews the cable connector, and shoved a metal wire down to try and shove the clog into the zone where there is heat, hopefully freeing it.
The stepper issue would've been the deal breaker for me.
*Watching 3DPrintingNerd instead of learning*
0:00
I fully agree with you on this one. This system is dumb. I'm really looking forward for the Artillery printers mashup video now
In regards to celcius..well it is 2021.. the countries using F is very limited now. What is actually strange is that vase exist since the vases printed cannot hold water most of the time so for a print they are very common but perhaps the least useful prints existing.mthats not this channels issue as it is common..but the terminology of the models "vase" are not really thought through. Conclusion however is good, i just dont see why to buy this vs an ender 3 really, wich is cheaper now. It is not the teams fault but the competitors are too ahead for something like this.. the ender 3 cost about 160 euros now, or more or less same in usd. It prints better than the prusa printers in general and has printable upgrades..( no pun vs prusa wich is a nice machine but heavily priced for the print result vs creality).. a cartesian without something very special has no real market now as the competiors both are cheap and good.
I love when the board has replaceable drivers.
cars are like that no keys just a key fob and then your battery is in the trunk and you can't open it cuz you don't have a key everything works electronically. if your battery is dead
btw. tinned wires into a screw terminal is not "better but not by much" than bare wires it is much worse because the tin will flow under the pressure of the screw and the cable will get loose over time and might short something or start a fire when it falls out of the terminal
You don't tin wires when there are mechanical vibrations.
First class, first week in soldering lessons our teacher told us: "never tin wires to screw them into a terminal block"
@@michaels3003 or heat. The big issue with tinned electrical connections is that through heat cycling the solder cracks and you get a poor connection. This causes more heat though resistance which exasperates the problem until either you either get a fire or a disconnect.
Came here to say this haha
@@prcdslnc13 As did I. Always use ferrules or just put the wires in if you really cannot is the first thing I learned ;-)
They owe Joel for the consult. He just made this thing viable in like 2 tweaks
Oh man no cold pulling?!? That’s easily the most used technique I use for clearing clogs.
Great suggestions on the 2 tubes/clips to hold the cables
I don't see an issue with cold pulling. Just pull it from the feeder. its how I do 99% of my cold pulls anyway.
@@nerys71 me too
@@nerys71 You could be torquing parts you really shouldn't if you're not careful though. I assume other people won't be as careful haha
@@GuardedDragon Its not that much force. not going to hurt anything.
I feel like the quality of this review took a step up from previous reviews on the channel. A lot more concentrated with more information and more useful criticism of the product.
Agreed some previous "reviews" felt more like ads
I’ve had those times at work. A super elegant design, then someone finds a fatal flaw with it. So hard to let things go when you fall in love with a design.
For sure, man.
Document design, type all advantages, disadvantages and put it in drawer. It can be handy in future and will help you to think out of the box :)
I'm an electronics technician and have used ferrules for many years. I want to add that not all Ferrule crimping tools are the same. Use the ones that crimp from all 4 sides at the same time. The crimping head will look like a star with a square in the middle when not compressed and a square when compressed. Also make sure you strip enough wire so it sticks out the end of the ferrule and can be trimmed off once crimped. For those of you who are like me and just can't trust crimped connections you can take a soldering iron and place it on the bottom of the crimped ferrule. Once up to temperature apply solder to the wire at the end and the solder will flow along the wire into the ferrule and make that connection completely secure.
Can confirm and boost the star to square ferrules crimpers. Those things are magic
I had no idea you could do that! Solid crimp plus solder sounds very good
@@WhereNerdyisCool if I recall the crimper I use has a blue and red handle, and a rounded die with the star formation at the top, solid crimper I use for ferrules in screw down terminals, bare wire be gone!
This. Bare wires screwed into terminals at the specified torque is far better than badly crimped ferrules. In fact, the terminal blocks were designed for bare wires. Never use a cheap-o crimping tool.
Someone should have told my A/C power outlet guy that, I don't think a single power outlet in my house has a ferrule in their connection, including power points spitting as much as 16 amps!
Joel, i have asked Artillery about the very same thing, they told me you can access the hotend from the backside, there is an opening between the ptfe tubes. Could you please check that? :)
You used my IdeaMaker profile! Awesome!
If you want to do a cold pull, you just need to heat up the hotend to ~230c, turn off the printer then quickly remove the bowden connector from the hotend. You will be able to push some filament trough the nozzle before it cools down, and then a cold pull is possible.
This makes a lot of sense. 👍
For a cold pull, shove the filament in while nozzle hot, allow to cool, then heat the nozzle, pulling on the filament. You need the nozzle heating while you're pulling. Easy solution, a couple of plugs, with wiring, but no bowden tube. It's not rocket science.
Not exactly the ideal solution, but at least it's possible. Sucks that such a clean setup compromises repairability quite a lot with this thing.
@@blazewind Pretty designs have been negatively impacting repairability for as long as there has been a desire for pretty things.
Remember when it was easy to replace a hard drive or battery on a laptop? Not any more. You can still replace the battery by pulling a dozen screws, OR melting the glue holding it together with a heat gun; but as more and more manufacturers integrate SSD storage directly on the motherboard, you can't do much with a damaged boot device.
@@blazewind Not really. If your only problem is the hotend sometimes clogging, you can just dismantle it while its hot instead of cold pulling. There are ways to go around everything
Simple you don't do a cold pull. Instead you do what we do even on our Ender's heat up the nozzle... unscrew the nozzle with a socket. and clean the nozzle out. Push filament our without a nozzle in the printer head followed by a which extra long retraction.this will clear up your hotend. For the nozzle use a small gas torch and a pair of pliers to hold the nozzle and do this way you cold pull. It is much more controlled and much faster too.
"It's really yellow" -coldplay likes it.
Hahaha made me laugh
Hi Joel, I can agree with you on the proprietary cable they used on this. Not great for clogs and cold pulls. About your "Ribbon cables, no one likes those..." comment, I've been printing with my Sidewinder X1 v4 with zero issues with those cables, or anything else, for a full year. I even bought a second Sidewinder X1 back in January. Is it user error, or older versions of the printer that have issues with those ribbon cables? I have yet to replace any of the parts that came in the spare parts bag. Still prints great a year later.
Also, good luck replacing at some point in the distant future [or perhaps even now, unless you're a reviewer] the custom combined filament feed and control line. Customer support and spare part availability aren't exactly Chinese hardware suppliers' strong points.
Guess the first thing you should print with this are spare parts 😂
I love the analogy of not being able to start your car with the hood open.
I always thought bare wire was better than tinned, caveat: you must not have any stray strands if bare. They can cause shorts.
If the connection gets warm through loading or a poor tightening of the connection, the solder will soften. This will loosen the connection in turn causing more heating; rinse & repeat until combustion.
3:05 Wait, What!?
Everything I've ever seen says that tinning the power wires is an awful idea that leads to shorts.
Yup - I had said it backwards. But you need ferrules :)
Not shorts, necessarily (AFAIK). But it _is_ a bad idea, yes.
The tin creeps/flows over time, gradually resulting in a loose connection. Loose connections have higher resistance and can arc, both of which cause heat which can make the tin flow faster, making it worse.
Heat can also lead to fire.
Plus, if the wire completely falls out of the terminal, it could contact another conductor, potentially (pun not intended) causing a short circuit - and more risk of fire!
And if it's the live/line/hot/etc. mains AC wire that's come loose, it could come to rest against nearby metalwork, causing the whole printer frame to possibly become live at 100-240V AC! Fun!
Terminals using strong springs (e.g. the popular Wago 221 and 222 terminals) can mitigate/reduce the risk, as they will keep applying enough force as the tin creeps.
But really, just use ferrules! 😁
Ferrules are cheap, quick and easy to apply, and give a nice, neat, professional result!
A third party product that plugs into the end to break out the wires and Bowden would be interesting to sell on etsy... Shouldn't be too hard to make and sell it fit a few bucks.
Just saying that there is a niche market there for someone that wants to... Why not, I've bought all kinds of crazy stuff for printers over the years, this would just be one more. 👍
An older video, but I picked up my hornet for 200 on Amazon a few weeks ago(as opposed to like 170 on their site), and I absolutely love it. I even love the cable. Assembly was 7 screws (Seven!!), its super quiet, in a few dozen prints I've only had one issue that required me to disassemble like anything, and the belt tensioners are absolutely awesome. I am a sucker for aesthetics, and I love having a printer that looks professional, and doesn't look weird sitting on a shelf. Compared to an Ender 3 base model, I would pick the Hornet any day for the same price.
The only issue that I have had with it is the Cura profiles that shipped with it are a little rough. I used the "fast" profile to try to print it's calibration cube, but there was so much under extrusion it was practically foam. After some tinkering I got a significantly better profile figured out, and my cubes look even better than the ones shown here.
What a weird design. When they designed this machine, was it the most problem free R&D ever??? You'd think that just once they'd need to do a cold pull or trouble shoot the 2 components separately
"coldplay likes it".. LOL!
Hey Joel, is there any chance you could make a followup video on the Obsidian Kickstarter?
when your only innovation on a new 3d printer is the way you connect your bowden tube and cables, and even do that in a bad way, then just let it be. This printer is unuseable ond offers nothing what a standard ender 3 doesnt do at least equally well for 100$ less
They should make a set of cables to use in case of break down. Jumper cables for your 3d printer.
Yes but you can’t jump a car with the hood closed :D ;)
@@jim2386 I could, but I had a Cadillac with the battery under the back seat and a Jaguar with the battery in the trunk. Would not recommend either.
The Fairy Tail noise is my notification noise as well. I couldn't believe it was actually in this video, I had to rewatch at 2:40 three times to make sure it wasn't me!
Interesting take!
I'd like to see this machine in direct drive, keeping the cool cable, but with the filament feeding in separately from the top.
Would never buy another artillery product again, nothing but a nightmare
The engeneer that desng this Never change a Clog Ptfe tube....bad desing
I recently got an Artillery Genius just before this came out, I've been enjoying thr hell out of it. One thing I noticed though is the ultra base type coating wasn't very durable for me and started changing color where I printed. Has anyone else has a similar issue with Artillery printers?
Disagree with you on the ribbons... They work just fine for me... Too many people do not know what they are doing...
Um, doesn't the fact "too many people do not know what they are doing" justify that ribbon cables don't work? When designing something, you have to design for the masses not the few.
@@PortalFPV Have you seen how many people have nuked XT-60 connectors and green screw terminals due to misuse? The same rule applies...
And I have to disagree with YOU on the ribbon cables. "works just fine for me" does not make it safe or best practice. "I can drink a 6-pack and still drive fine" works for some people too- doesn't mean it's safe, and I sure as heck wouldn't want to be on the road with that guy.
The FFC connectors are rated at 0.2 amps per contact, so even tripled up (as they are), that's still a fraction of the 1.5ish amps pulled by the heater core- and tweak the end of that ribbon cable at all or loose any of those 3 connection points and you are WELL beyond what should be speced there.
Also, saying "Too many people do not know what they are doing" is just wrong, rude and insulting- a manufacturer should ASSUME that their customers DON'T know what they are doing and should build a product to safe standards accordingly- I mean unless they really have great liability insurance... That would NEVER pass UL/CE certification.
I am an Artillery Fan- I find them to be an innovative company who isn't just straight up copying what the other guys are , and they are great to work with. BUT not all those innovations are good ideas or properly implemented. And that's OK- as long as they evolve and learn with each generation of machine. But both the ribbon cables (as implemented) and the all-in-one bundle on the Hornet (as implemented) are just no-gos.
@@crussty3d way more than I was gonna type, but perfectly written....thank you
My biggest concern with purchasing the Hornet is two fold. The Bowden tube cabling combo is ok in my opinion. The problem I have has to do with firstly all that plastic which reminds me of the Tarantula RS from Homers Tevo. The Y motor mounts in plastic which will crack and deform over time. Do not place that printer in a heated enclosure. Secondly there is maybe no way to add a BLTouch. I say maybe because I think I saw unused plugs in the hotend assembly. They don't sell a BLTouch kit for it though. With a BLTouch added to the hotend you need 13 pins total.
They need to offer a “jumper” connection. It would just be for connecting the electronics while getting the Bowden tube out of the way for cleaning/maintenance. They can send my commission for that idea to my PayPal account 😁
I wonder if that setup works well enough to print with flexible filament?
you could do the cold pull while keeping the bowden tube still in, holding the extruder lever pressed
Hi, could you do a video on the Taulman 3D PA Cast plate nylon? It is their newest filament and It boasts a tensile strength of 13,000 PSI and was wondering if you could do a review. Thanks!
8 actually like the ribbon cables of the sidewinder. They made my life so much easier and they look great. I have the sidewinder for nearly 2 years and I still haven't changed one ribbon cable
Same here. I’ve heard a lot of people complain about the ribbon cables on the SX1/Genius, but I’ve never had any issues at all with them in the 1.5 years I’ve had my Sidewinder, and like you said, they look great
Same here. I like to say they can not have issues but I suspect it is people not inserting them properly and not keeping an eye on it...
I certainly like ~~ribbon~~ _flat-flex_ cables (FFCs) in theory!
("ribbon cable" generally refers to the style of cable used with old PATA/"IDE" hard drives/etc., I believe.)
I don't own a 3D printer using FFCs (eg the Sidewinder X1) so I don't know what the current implementations are like.
Are they using unsuitable connectors that don't provide enough retention force, maybe?
(And might different revisions of the Sidewinder X1 be using different FFC connectors? That could explain the polarised opinions!)
However _I love how the Sidewinder X1 looks_ with those FFCs, and I have long-term plans to switch to FFCs or ribbon cables on my modified Prusa i3 MK2-ish printer because it looks like either option would greatly improve the cable management (using custom marshalling PCBs).
I really dislike the Prusa i3's extruder/hotend cable routing. It's such a headache, when creating custom extruder mounts/X-carriage assemblies, to route the extruder cables without trapping them between the X-carriage and the printer's frame at the far top, left, or right extents of the print volume 😣
Using FFCs or ribbon cables up the frame, as seen on the Sidewinder, just looks a lot neater and easier to manage - as long as my PCB designs include spare lines for future expansion!
It should just require the use of suitable connectors for it to all work nicely. 2D printers have been using FFCs _for ever_ without issue, after all!
@@AndrewGillard Other brands like Type A and FlashForge use them on their machines and it seems to work. Like with anything you got to sometimes step out of the box and go from there. That said, lots of people have burnt XT-60 and "green screw terminals" through misuse so... no connecting system is perfect!
@@MakeItWithCalvin I think the key to not having connectors fail is in choosing an appropriate connector for the application (considering connector type, size, ratings, features, ...) *and then using it correctly*.
(Possibly also not buying cheap knock-off connectors, too, but that's very much a case of some being worse than others. I have plenty of cheap connectors from AliExpress that don't concern me at all, but I've also seen some that absolutely do! :))
e.g. screw terminals can overheat/melt/burn if overloaded or not tightened enough (or if people use tinned wires... _cough_ 👀). Check the datasheets of screw terminals at DigiKey/Mouser/etc. and you'll find that a lot of them actually specify a recommended screw tightening torque - typically 0.5 N·m (0.4~0.6 N·m) for the terminals I just checked out, all of which were around the 5.08mm pitch that's commonly used for 3D printer control boards.
And of course there were the XT60 connectors that Angus reported on being crimped rather than soldered. Fun! :)
You're exactly right. Any connector is susceptible to failing if it's abused!
Hey Joel, great video as always! Just wanted to make a small correction when you were talking about ferrules. Tinned wires (although providing better strength than bare wire) can be a major safety hazard since the terminals can heat up due to the amount of current passing through it, and the tinning can soften and cause wire shifting or slipping that might cause sparking or fire. It's generally recommended to completely avoid tinning wires in terminals like that for safety reasons as some 3D printers have died or sparked for this reason.
I accidentally said things backwards and didn’t mean to. Thankfully you and other caught it. I’ll going to hopefully make a quick update video this week.
@@3DPrintingNerd No worries! Just wanted to point it out since better safe than sorry 👍
Don't know when you got that new intro, but it's awesome!
I wanna see your opinions and thoughts on the Voxelab Aquila. It's my first FDM printer and for about $170 I'm seriously happy with the prints.
Had me rolling at the cold play reference!
What to buy ender 3 v2 or cr 10 mini?
The Artillery Hornet is a misstep from Artillery, both the Sidewinder X1 and Genius are great printers but aesthetics aside there is nothing to recommend this over the previous models
Did they leave an option to add a BLTouch?
Yea, not liked this machine since the first unboxing and pictures I ever saw of it.
Simplification of the print head cable whip is for sure needed, but this ISNT it..
Great video! One of those things..... yep. Best and worst hahaha!
The Hornet + The Genius = The Murder Hornet
You knocked the plug out and it blew a stepper driver? You should test that and make sure it was just a weak driver and not due to poor board design. That sounds strange and concerns me that users might blow a driver everytime they shut the machine off with the surge protector or experience a power outage
About time you got onto kiri:moto, I have been shouting about it for ages now. \0/
Why can't it instead be named "Lovemaker" or "Dream Catcher"? Artillery Hornet... is overly bombastic. Imagine what the marketers may name their children "T3-Terminator" or "Master Axe Conan"
Me: 4 years Western Electric equipment installer, 30+ years electronics industry experience.
Ferrules.
They look great, they seem to fix a problem, but they are evil!
They were intended for low-power connections that are taken apart frequently...protects fine stranded wires from clamping forces.
Here they are being used in a high-power application with little need for frequent access.
***
Contact area and contact pressure are the King and Queen of high-power electrical connections.
Ferrules are a cylinder, the clamping-block has flat contacts.
This means there are only two narrow points of contact!
Bare copper stranded-wire has oodles of contact area and 'squishes' to conform to the contact surfaces.
Ferrules don't squish!
Cut off the ferrules, use the stranded wire in the connector blocks!
Tinned wire in a connector block?
Even worse...
Bright copper in firm contact with a tin-plated connector can have the same electrical properties as a soldered connection.
Ferrules have resistance that is easy to measure!
Resistance in high-power = heat, heat = failure.
Yes, working with stranded wire can be a hassle, but it can't be beat for passing power!
ive had problem after problem caused purely by that damn tube, the filament always jams between the nozzle and heating block and the the replacement sent by the company leaked EVERYWHERE!
the prints are great quality but the problems this thing has are horrible for a beginner like myself, ive only had it for 7 months and could only use it for about 4 of them.
hi there. 2 years have passed when you made this amazing video. my question is did you work around or find a diy solution to fix the "best worst idea" for this build? liked and subscribed! many thanks in advanced!
What's the patent on the cable actually for? I've made ones like it - and Jon from Proper Printing has a whole video series on his DSUB based modular connectors...
just found out i'm being sent one of these for review....oy.
Paraphrasing Louis Henry Sullivan: "Form should follow function." Oops.
Taking into account the bloopers in operation I see with nearly every video, not too bad of a review... I still find it hard to believe you have now been doing this as your primary job for several years... I can only imagine that you are using the "bumbling mistakes" thing as some kind of gimmick for clicks at this point. Having had both the Genius and the Hornet in our print farm for several months now, we have not experienced the problems you always seem to have. We are adding more as they are solid machines. but you do you, occasionally you have some interesting material but I treat your "reviews" like I do movie critics... mildly interesting opinions, but not something I base real world decisions on.
I have the printer. Unplug the cable, unscrew the hot end (three screws) then plug it back in... Or you can do what I do and leave the middle screw out and only use the two flanking screws meaning no need to unplug.
Is it super great? Depends. I much prefer it since, with two screws, I can hold the assembly and properly clean the hot end. But that might be a no go for you.
I found this to be much easier than my ender 3 given how much space is in that housing. This printer is a steal at 250 and I DO recommend it over the ender 3.
At least the drivers are replaceable. Good feature!
Hi! Je suis d'accord avec vous.
They could keep the special cable that combines the wires and filament tube as long as they add external service port to connect the electronics of the hot end to the main board to be able to turn on the heater and thermistor and service the hot end in case of clogs and other things
Mini Joel seams to have an issue.
I'm just gonna observe that I'm pretty sure the patent on their bowden-cabling integration is probably legally invalid since there doesn't seem to be anything unique about it compared to methods which people have been publishing and using on their printers for at least ten years... Lack of market presence of a product encapsulating a single concept and list of parts does not by law allow a company or individual the right to patent that concept and list when it already exists by easily available record in the public venue.
There can be a accessory that allow you to run the hotend leaving the nozzle free by connecting only the power and sensor wires.
In Soviet Russia, if your 3D printer is not working, send it to the Gulag and it will have no choice but to work.
I'm not 100% convinced its the machine.. I've have the exact same issue with cura and printing on the the Ultimaker s5 4:20
Please do some video why driver died and how to protect it. It's bad circuit design? I think companies like trinamic will help you.