As a crane operator it is good to see the shackle explained to the off-road world. The WLL is a limit of load as used for hoisting, and should a shackle be used for towing it is no longer rated for hoisting. This is due to shock loads which are imparted to the shackle which are not created in a hoisting application. There is much to know about shackles and their proper safe application. A good read is a Hoisting Handbook.
@@Lhenry-pf5zn I was unable to find “Hoisting Handbook” specifically. Most titles that came up include “rigging”. Please let us know which specific publication you’re referring to - I like to read it!
Facts! as a rigger and instructor, i can verify what this operator commented. As well as the comment about slings, etc. Keep your tools/hardware/equipment specifically separated for different purposes. Haul=Haul, Hoisting=Hoisting also would like to add NEVER cannibals your hardware. Exp. dont take a pin and switch it to another shackle. Etc..
I also love the wooden spacer. Wooden washers. It's funny how I make washers out of rubber, I've drilled out washers to make the ID hole bigger but never thought of using wood. I like how they keep the load pull right in the center. Good tips!
Just bumped into this channel. As I always say, no matter how experienced you’re, there’s always something to learn. I learned 2 things that I never thought about!
@@L2SFBC Actually four things: 3- S & M rating 9- Easier tool to open a seized pin! 12- Hitch application: vertical vs horizontal. 13- How to use recovery points the right way.
There really is only one English, chap. What you call a wrench is actually a spanner. That tool which this gentleman used, is called a shifting spanner, but some people shorten that to shifter, not to be confused with that thing in a car that Americans use to select alternative gears in the car's transmission. Not that many Americans actually go to so much effort while driving. You know driving, I'm sure - its that thing that Americans do right before consuming what they call food, at those places that they call restaurants.
I wasn't sure I'd learn anything. Boy, was I WRONG! Thanks so much. I'll be getting a new recovery hitch as a result. I saved this vid for furture reference.
I love that hitch, it makes every recovery or extraction safer, you can feel your anxiety DROP from questioning if the strength of the hooks welded or bolted onto the bumper are enough. You know that class-V hitch rating and the rating for the 4/6/8, etc bolts holding onto your frame. I didn't like the frame conetection for my hitch. I was also using the rear leaf spring mount bolts for the bumper adding more loads/stress. So I added 1/4 (6mm) 4140 steel plates to the last 14in (35cm) of the frame. Cut out the Ford rivets holding gas tank crossbeams and bolted everything back together with 8x 12mm 12.9 bolts on each side. I don't fear the leaf spring falling off with the bumper towing or a recovery. Especially if I winch with the front end tethered to a massive tree, could have torn/twisted the truck to bits.
In the Navy we used lots of shackles. If something is important we use a steel wiren to secure the screw pin sonit can't screw out. You put the steel wire through the whole in the pin and you start weaving it around the shackle.
Thank you. I recently started 4-wheeling and added recovery points. I had questions about the orientation of the shackles/straps and concluded that safest would be the last example you showed.
Another good idea for a shackle which may suffer the pin unscrewing due to repeated, continuous use, is the 'cage' the shackle. This entails using a wire, or string, (I use zip ties a lot), through the pin hole and around the bow to keep the pin from backing out during use. It is also a good anti-theft idea to keep your shackles on your vehicles.
Used these a lot when I was in Boiler maker Union in the '80s; it's just common sense. Thank the lord there are still people with common sense making RUclips videos like Robert Pepper. I have to admit it took a grizzled Journeyman to slap my upside the head and yell "WTF (newbie), you're going to get yourself cut in half; here's how to hook that to the line..." I can't remember the exact pejorative used to describe us new guys but it definitely wasn't "newbie" and it would certainly be too offensive for general audience Until you fully understand what can go wrong you don't really understand how to use a tool.
Snatch straps break according to age , amount of use and how they are used and it can be well below the wll if the circumstances are bad . A wet , twisted , old strap hit hard 5 or six times in a row will break . A brand new strap hit hard 8 to 10 times in a row can break due to loss of stretch .
I'm using the miolle soft shackles, I've only had them a couple month already but have used them to pull out stuck lawn mower several time. rainy spring plus bottom ground lol. The soft shackles are great for pulling out anything that doesn't have conventional hook-up points. Should have bought these years ago.
And remember to make sure the recovery points on your vehicle are super strong. The only reason shackles become lethal projectiles is recovery points failing.
Setting up for a "straight line pull" means that the centerline of the load should coincide with the centerline of the shackle. Never side load “D” shaped shackles such as *chain shackles or long reach shackles*. These shackles are designed and rated for in-line applied tension only. Screw pin shackles can be used for applications involving side-loading circumstances, HOWEVER, you MUST reduce the work load limit (ie; 6-45 degrees off center use 30% of shackles rated load and 45-90 degrees off center use 50% of shackles rated load).
That was fantastic! I had to pause the video and run out to check my recovery hitch receiver...only one orientation. 😣 Looks like I need to do some shopping! Thanks for the great info.
Great stuff, so when connecting winch lines or bridles to the screw pin bow (anchor) shackle, do you use just some chafe guard sleeves or would you suggest thimbles to ensure proper bend radius of the rope’s eye?
Great stuff Robert, I thaught making my own bumpers would be easy, now you've thrown a curved ball, I have to allow the shackle to turn freely in the winch point and support lateral force in a bridle 🤔🤔🤔 Mate, when you're use'd to four 30,000ld winches, what you can do with a small winch becomes a science, brute force is not an option, glad I've found you and subscribed, 😷👍👍
great video. just a bit odd that 90% of off-road bumpers will put on recovery points that require you to put the pin through it, and not the BETTER way that you show, where the bow is toward the bumper. As it is very rare to have a perfectly lined up & straight recovery, side load is a true issue to think about. Maybe all the "trendy" bumper manufacturers should pay attention to your excellent points??? But good to see that the recovery points on my brand new F150 are in fact curved and do allow me to put the bow toward the truck and the strap on the pin. And if I am properly using a bridle to spread the load on a recovery, you will definitely be pulling at 45 degrees on each recovery point.
I have no experience in Off-roading, so I must ask: You said in the video to put the pin in fully and then back off half a turn (and I've heard it on other channels as well), but you actually just did 1/4 of a turn. Wouldn't half a turn pull it out so it isn't fully seated in the body? It looks like it is pretty flush when fully in and with the "largish" thread pitch one-half turn would pull it out too far, or am I wrong (something my wife often says is true😁)?
It depends on the shackle. Some 'like' 1/4 turn, others 1/2 turn. You can also do no turns. There is a bit of a debate about it..fact is, they are so strong 1/2 turn won't make any difference to what breaks first and it won't be the shackle!
@@L2SFBC Our rigging only mark grade 6 or better. I think yours might be better because most 4xr4 people are amateurs when it comes to rigging. I lived it every day for 46 years. (Logging.) I started out working with 2" skylines where the skyline shackle weighed 65 pounds and the pin 20. I do appreciate you comment about backing the pin out when using a shackle, I have had to take a torch to shackles where the pin wasn't backed out a bit.
@@knotbumper I could be wrong, but I don’t remember the coloring of the pins as an indicator that the shackle is ‘rated’ (in the US anyway). I know I’ve seen and used both, but never associated it as being rated or non-rated. [construction background]
@@L2SFBC we had a crew that recovered miners after they were covered up by production crews pulling pillars, , we had what's called a crab that had a 50 ton hydraulic cylinder that wedged a 6 way shieve with 2 inch cable into the top underground, we always got the miners out but not always in 1 piece
I have most of those shackle sizes, and that special receiver hitch shackle designed to hold a shackle at the vehicle recovery point. I prefer a soft laptop bag with a reinforced ring inside to protect the laptop from agressive travel at airports iron, perfect bag for forged recovery in my rig, much better in a roll over or crash than a metal box coming off it's mount/strap and flying at something important. Toss my bag on the hood or roof without major damage to the vehicle. ⚠️🛑 EXTREMELY dangerous using these shackles to connect 2 recovery straps out in the middle trying to double the length. Bad idea, unless the goal was to ride in an ambulance to hospital; with a hole in your head, or eye bashed into your faces. 🛑☠️⚠️
Nobody ever talks about the integrity of the receiver pins. There are no markings or anyway to confirm the quality. If one of these fails and you are using a kinetic recovery rope you are launching a deadly amount of hardware at one of the vehicles.
You do have some info wrong. Not all shackles have a safety rating of 6. Most at least in the US crane and rigging industry are 4:1 or 5:1 Not all are rated for a side load pull. And a 45° pull doesn't derate the shackles itself but it does increase the sling tension by 1.5:1, 60° is 1.15:1 sling tension factor. And 30° is a 2:1 sling tension factor. 30° and below is generally a no go because not only does the sling have twice the load on it then a straight 90° pull would but because it is very easy to rip off or at the very least bend attachment points. In a vehicle that could be your hitch or your axle mounts. Pin to pin is always frowned upon, not because of ratings but because the shackles can shift within the connection point. Typically this doesn't matter but a d ring or master link is a better method. Centering the sling on the pin is a good practice but except in critical lifts which are high risk or high weight lifts we typically don't worry about that. Keeping the proper spacers around and available would be nearly impossible since the sizes vary so much and 2 because they get lost quite a bit. In my opinion having an in depth knowledge of snatch block usage and the proper equipment available is more valuable than nit-picking the shackles uses.
Thanks for the clarifications, Kyle. I was working off Australian standards...good point about 4 or 5 to 1. Going to do a video on bridles and forces which will cover some of the above. Thanks again!
@@L2SFBC bridles are interesting because if you self assemble them you only use 2 legs for the load capacity calculation on a 4 leg system, unless you have a way to equalize the leg lengths, where on a 3 leg you use all 3. Unless it is on a lifting device in which the system,bridle and device, are only tested to 125% at least by US standards.
@@L2SFBC yea much simpler, I've worked with bridles with 16 legs. Each leg had an load moment indicator so we could adjust each leg by turn buckle to make them equal tension. Total load was right about 500ton. Just left corpus cristi TX where we pulled a head with an 8 leg bridle that was 256ton. That one was much easier just measure the turn buckles out to engineered lengths.
@@L2SFBC because both have a sharp outer edge where the soft shackle rests, the edge should be rounded 1.5 x the diameter of the rope for shackle . www.samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope
De,der and dis, what an amazing journalist, was he talking about a d-shackle or the shackle? Hope he writes better than he pronounces his words,i think his mouth is bwoken.
As a crane operator it is good to see the shackle explained to the off-road world. The WLL is a limit of load as used for hoisting, and should a shackle be used for towing it is no longer rated for hoisting. This is due to shock loads which are imparted to the shackle which are not created in a hoisting application. There is much to know about shackles and their proper safe application. A good read is a Hoisting Handbook.
Oh wow didn't know that thanks!!!
@@L2SFBC It also applies to ropes, snatch ropes and straps.
@@Lhenry-pf5zn I was unable to find “Hoisting Handbook” specifically. Most titles that came up include “rigging”. Please let us know which specific publication you’re referring to - I like to read it!
Facts! as a rigger and instructor, i can verify what this operator commented. As well as the comment about slings, etc.
Keep your tools/hardware/equipment specifically separated for different purposes. Haul=Haul, Hoisting=Hoisting
also would like to add NEVER cannibals your hardware. Exp. dont take a pin and switch it to another shackle. Etc..
Not supposed to anyway.
Calmly and professionally presenting his knowledge, subbed for sure. Hi from a Swedish off-road noob.
I also love the wooden spacer. Wooden washers. It's funny how I make washers out of rubber, I've drilled out washers to make the ID hole bigger but never thought of using wood. I like how they keep the load pull right in the center. Good tips!
Good point about putting the bow on the recovery point.
Just bumped into this channel. As I always say, no matter how experienced you’re, there’s always something to learn. I learned 2 things that I never thought about!
Which two was that? And great attitude that is how the best people operate 👍
@@L2SFBC
Actually four things:
3- S & M rating
9- Easier tool to open a seized pin!
12- Hitch application: vertical vs horizontal.
13- How to use recovery points the right way.
Thanks good to know what people learn 👍
Again Robert, your explanations are great :-) Clear & simple to understand - Thank you - Ted
Glad it was helpful!
Today I learned that an adjustable wrench is called a shifter. I love learning alternative English.
Today you learned the correct term for an adjustable wrench and I learned the alternative term for a shifter 😁
There really is only one English, chap. What you call a wrench is actually a spanner. That tool which this gentleman used, is called a shifting spanner, but some people shorten that to shifter, not to be confused with that thing in a car that Americans use to select alternative gears in the car's transmission. Not that many Americans actually go to so much effort while driving. You know driving, I'm sure - its that thing that Americans do right before consuming what they call food, at those places that they call restaurants.
There you go sibco96, you have been educated! Now try to overcome your aversion to the letter u 👍
@@Adrian_Nel Y'know, most of the country that invented the things call 'em a Crescent wrench, bud.
Shifter in Nova Scotia Canada it is also known as a thumb wrench
I wasn't sure I'd learn anything. Boy, was I WRONG! Thanks so much. I'll be getting a new recovery hitch as a result. I saved this vid for furture reference.
I love that hitch, it makes every recovery or extraction safer, you can feel your anxiety DROP from questioning if the strength of the hooks welded or bolted onto the bumper are enough. You know that class-V hitch rating and the rating for the 4/6/8, etc bolts holding onto your frame.
I didn't like the frame conetection for my hitch. I was also using the rear leaf spring mount bolts for the bumper adding more loads/stress. So I added 1/4 (6mm) 4140 steel plates to the last 14in (35cm) of the frame. Cut out the Ford rivets holding gas tank crossbeams and bolted everything back together with 8x 12mm 12.9 bolts on each side.
I don't fear the leaf spring falling off with the bumper towing or a recovery. Especially if I winch with the front end tethered to a massive tree, could have torn/twisted the truck to bits.
In the Navy we used lots of shackles. If something is important we use a steel wiren to secure the screw pin sonit can't screw out. You put the steel wire through the whole in the pin and you start weaving it around the shackle.
Very useful info as usual. Please do one on soft shackles please. Thank you for the education.
Thank you.
I recently started 4-wheeling and added recovery points.
I had questions about the orientation of the shackles/straps and concluded that safest would be the last example you showed.
Another good idea for a shackle which may suffer the pin unscrewing due to repeated, continuous use, is the 'cage' the shackle. This entails using a wire, or string, (I use zip ties a lot), through the pin hole and around the bow to keep the pin from backing out during use. It is also a good anti-theft idea to keep your shackles on your vehicles.
Point 12 is where a soft shackle (with appropriate hitch) does a better job, its much less fussy as to angle :)
Used these a lot when I was in Boiler maker Union in the '80s; it's just common sense. Thank the lord there are still people with common sense making RUclips videos like Robert Pepper.
I have to admit it took a grizzled Journeyman to slap my upside the head and yell "WTF (newbie), you're going to get yourself cut in half; here's how to hook that to the line..."
I can't remember the exact pejorative used to describe us new guys but it definitely wasn't "newbie" and it would certainly be too offensive for general audience
Until you fully understand what can go wrong you don't really understand how to use a tool.
Rob, you just keep knocking them out of the park. Great Clip - thanks . Nick
Snatch straps break according to age , amount of use and how they are used and it can be well below the wll if the circumstances are bad . A wet , twisted , old strap hit hard 5 or six times in a row will break . A brand new strap hit hard 8 to 10 times in a row can break due to loss of stretch .
I'm using the miolle soft shackles, I've only had them a couple month already but have used them to pull out stuck lawn mower several time. rainy spring plus bottom ground lol. The soft shackles are great for pulling out anything that doesn't have conventional hook-up points. Should have bought these years ago.
Great point, I also like the way they can attach to points you can't fit a metal shackle to.
G’day Rob, excellent explanations and video. We learned that 40 years ago in the port business for rigging and lashing. Cheers
I like your plywood spacers. That is an excellent idea I am going to adopt.
And remember to make sure the recovery points on your vehicle are super strong.
The only reason shackles become lethal projectiles is recovery points failing.
Yep, and never use a tow ball to snatch from for the same reason. A guy was killed in Oz doing that a while ago.
Excellent video. I watched it a while ago but good to see it again.
Excellent and full of relevant content. keep them coming.
Thanks, will do! Please share :-)
Coming from a construction back ground , they were called a clevis.
& a shifter is called an adjustable wrench.
No, a clevis is quite different and varied.
Setting up for a "straight line pull" means that the centerline of the load should coincide with the centerline of the shackle. Never side load “D” shaped shackles such as *chain shackles or long reach shackles*. These shackles are designed and rated for in-line applied tension only. Screw pin shackles can be used for applications involving side-loading circumstances, HOWEVER, you MUST reduce the work load limit (ie; 6-45 degrees off center use 30% of shackles rated load and 45-90 degrees off center use 50% of shackles rated load).
Yep!
Excellent info..answered all my questions.
There are a lot of people doing it wrong out there.
Thank you
Thanks please share 👍
That was fantastic! I had to pause the video and run out to check my recovery hitch receiver...only one orientation. 😣 Looks like I need to do some shopping! Thanks for the great info.
Glad it helped
Drill out the other direction instead of buying a new one.
Im very impressed with you using Vernier calipers.
This is phenomenal info! Thanks for putting this together!
Thanks please share 👍
Thanks! It, Very straightforward with clear information on "why".
Glad it was helpful! Please share :-)
( D ) shackles are referred to as chain shackles by some manufacturers .
Really helpful information -- thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff, so when connecting winch lines or bridles to the screw pin bow (anchor) shackle, do you use just some chafe guard sleeves or would you suggest thimbles to ensure proper bend radius of the rope’s eye?
Don't need either if you kee well under load limits
Great stuff Robert, I thaught making my own bumpers would be easy, now you've thrown a curved ball, I have to allow the shackle to turn freely in the winch point and support lateral force in a bridle 🤔🤔🤔
Mate, when you're use'd to four 30,000ld winches, what you can do with a small winch becomes a science, brute force is not an option, glad I've found you and subscribed,
😷👍👍
Enjoyed this video! Good information.
Thanks please share!
Very good information, I would say possibly life saving. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks if you can now share I would appreciate it!
Great presentation. Many thanks.
Excellent info at the end, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
great video. just a bit odd that 90% of off-road bumpers will put on recovery points that require you to put the pin through it, and not the BETTER way that you show, where the bow is toward the bumper. As it is very rare to have a perfectly lined up & straight recovery, side load is a true issue to think about. Maybe all the "trendy" bumper manufacturers should pay attention to your excellent points??? But good to see that the recovery points on my brand new F150 are in fact curved and do allow me to put the bow toward the truck and the strap on the pin. And if I am properly using a bridle to spread the load on a recovery, you will definitely be pulling at 45 degrees on each recovery point.
Thanks! I have another video on bridles.
Good show! Thanks for sharing!
Can you please share 👍
Really interesting and informative. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Please share :-)
It makes good logical sense. Thanks!
Another excellent video.
I have no experience in Off-roading, so I must ask: You said in the video to put the pin in fully and then back off half a turn (and I've heard it on other channels as well), but you actually just did 1/4 of a turn. Wouldn't half a turn pull it out so it isn't fully seated in the body? It looks like it is pretty flush when fully in and with the "largish" thread pitch one-half turn would pull it out too far, or am I wrong (something my wife often says is true😁)?
It depends on the shackle. Some 'like' 1/4 turn, others 1/2 turn. You can also do no turns. There is a bit of a debate about it..fact is, they are so strong 1/2 turn won't make any difference to what breaks first and it won't be the shackle!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.
Sensational video, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Please share :-)
A side note, here in the US, markings are significantly different. Same purposes, just different.
How so?
@@L2SFBC Our rigging only mark grade 6 or better. I think yours might be better because most 4xr4 people are amateurs when it comes to rigging. I lived it every day for 46 years. (Logging.) I started out working with 2" skylines where the skyline shackle weighed 65 pounds and the pin 20. I do appreciate you comment about backing the pin out when using a shackle, I have had to take a torch to shackles where the pin wasn't backed out a bit.
@@knotbumper I could be wrong, but I don’t remember the coloring of the pins as an indicator that the shackle is ‘rated’ (in the US anyway). I know I’ve seen and used both, but never associated it as being rated or non-rated. [construction background]
Just looked at the Crosby catalog and same are painted and some aren’t.
Really good. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Can you hook pin side to hook, bow to bow then pin to recovery hitch. Is this safe?
Outstanding info, thank you.
Thanks please share 👍
Thank you for the information on Shackles New sub
Thanks!!!
Great Info. Thank you for the video
Glad it was helpful! Please share :-)
Excelente video!! very useful information
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting and informative video .. thanks very much.👍
Great information as always.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and great explanations coming from a 52 year ironworker.
Thanks please share 👍
Excellent
Excellent video, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
You didn't mention the ones we use in underground coal mines that weigh 300 lbs and we've bent them pulling out covered up continus miners with
I was going to but hard to fit on my table
@@L2SFBC we had a crew that recovered miners after they were covered up by production crews pulling pillars, , we had what's called a crab that had a 50 ton hydraulic cylinder that wedged a 6 way shieve with 2 inch cable into the top underground, we always got the miners out but not always in 1 piece
Wow...I love to hear stories like this so we can all learn!
@@L2SFBC I could try to explain a long wall move underground but unless you've been there and pulled shields that keep you alive it's nuts
I have most of those shackle sizes, and that special receiver hitch shackle designed to hold a shackle at the vehicle recovery point.
I prefer a soft laptop bag with a reinforced ring inside to protect the laptop from agressive travel at airports iron, perfect bag for forged recovery in my rig, much better in a roll over or crash than a metal box coming off it's mount/strap and flying at something important. Toss my bag on the hood or roof without major damage to the vehicle.
⚠️🛑 EXTREMELY dangerous using these shackles to connect 2 recovery straps out in the middle trying to double the length. Bad idea, unless the goal was to ride in an ambulance to hospital; with a hole in your head, or eye bashed into your faces. 🛑☠️⚠️
Great video!
Always use Crosby products
Skookum shackles are great also, but not cheap !
Nobody ever talks about the integrity of the receiver pins. There are no markings or anyway to confirm the quality. If one of these fails and you are using a kinetic recovery rope you are launching a deadly amount of hardware at one of the vehicles.
Thanks Mate from NE TN, USA :)
Cheers cobber 👍
Can metal shackles be used for other purposes not car related? My mind is exploding with thoughts
Yes they can be put to multiple purposes. For example, if something is moving but shouldn't be, then that object can be retrained using a shackle.
What is the hole in the pin for.
Screwdriver to loosen, usually
Unless its a soft shackle multipler use a bow shackle
Good info.
Thanks please share 👍
Great Review 👍 👍🗽
Thanks The Vermonter
Thanks! Please share 👍
you said you were NOT going to talk about rope.
Well done, thnx.
Thanks for watching!
Good stuff!
Thanks please share 👍
good info👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Excellent...
They're called Clevis, and they are made in sizes up to 150 ton. Obviously, much larger than what is shown here. Same concept, just, much larger.
Says, half a turn, but backs the pin off a quarter turn. Which is it?
Depends on the load and circumstances. Maybe run with a third.
You typically only back off a 1/4turn max. Crane and rigging industry standard is no back of but to rather tighten till touch but not tight.
You do have some info wrong.
Not all shackles have a safety rating of 6. Most at least in the US crane and rigging industry are 4:1 or 5:1
Not all are rated for a side load pull. And a 45° pull doesn't derate the shackles itself but it does increase the sling tension by 1.5:1, 60° is 1.15:1 sling tension factor. And 30° is a 2:1 sling tension factor. 30° and below is generally a no go because not only does the sling have twice the load on it then a straight 90° pull would but because it is very easy to rip off or at the very least bend attachment points. In a vehicle that could be your hitch or your axle mounts.
Pin to pin is always frowned upon, not because of ratings but because the shackles can shift within the connection point. Typically this doesn't matter but a d ring or master link is a better method.
Centering the sling on the pin is a good practice but except in critical lifts which are high risk or high weight lifts we typically don't worry about that. Keeping the proper spacers around and available would be nearly impossible since the sizes vary so much and 2 because they get lost quite a bit.
In my opinion having an in depth knowledge of snatch block usage and the proper equipment available is more valuable than nit-picking the shackles uses.
Thanks for the clarifications, Kyle. I was working off Australian standards...good point about 4 or 5 to 1. Going to do a video on bridles and forces which will cover some of the above. Thanks again!
@@L2SFBC bridles are interesting because if you self assemble them you only use 2 legs for the load capacity calculation on a 4 leg system, unless you have a way to equalize the leg lengths, where on a 3 leg you use all 3. Unless it is on a lifting device in which the system,bridle and device, are only tested to 125% at least by US standards.
Simpler for 4x4s...just need two legs and focus on the included angle!
@@L2SFBC yea much simpler, I've worked with bridles with 16 legs. Each leg had an load moment indicator so we could adjust each leg by turn buckle to make them equal tension. Total load was right about 500ton. Just left corpus cristi TX where we pulled a head with an 8 leg bridle that was 256ton. That one was much easier just measure the turn buckles out to engineered lengths.
So much to learn from the hoisting industry!!!
On heavey loads mouse off the bin with wire.
Good tip!
Use USA made
NO CHINESE CRAP!
🏆🏆🏆✌️🙏
don't use the softshackel with both of that type snatchblock.
which ones and why not?
@@L2SFBC 'Cause it's the weakest part of the link and that snatch block is gonna come flying at your head
@@L2SFBC because both have a sharp outer edge where the soft shackle rests, the edge should be rounded 1.5 x the diameter of the rope for shackle .
www.samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope
Couldn't be anymore redundant could he?
De,der and dis, what an amazing journalist, was he talking about a d-shackle or the shackle? Hope he writes better than he pronounces his words,i think his mouth is bwoken.
Would be unfair for me to be good looking as well as perfectly spoken wouldn't it 😁
@@L2SFBC
Lol! Great reply!😂
That response is magical!
@@L2SFBC
Lol hahaha Yuk-erk McKirk said exactly what I was thinking but you are instantly forgiven for that brilliant comeback!
@@L2SFBC oh lord it's hard to be humble ,when you're perfect in eberwe way . An dats a fact. D,d,d,d, dats all folks.
That is a Mexican speed wrench not a shifter.