This dude just creat history he follow all the law of keeping a good transmiting coax cable with out soildering which spoils your cable, by using the same lays of current and by using the advantage of conductive material to transmit current and still able to keep the electromagnet layers away from canceling flow (this is pure art peaple 😍 he needs a Grammy .
I used to repair coax in my job, and we had a kit of little copper tubes to fit the inside copper wire. We also had a hand crimper to squash them. There is a conductive grease you can get that goes into the tube and keeps the wires from ever oxidizing. We kept the splice to about an inch long overall, and used a special 'fusion' tape over the inner copper joint, and copper tape to put over the braid, which we kept loosely together (with more grease) and covered with more fusion tape. Then we put the gum-filled heatshrink over the whole thing. (The hot gum in the shrink will BURN you good if you touch it!) I kept small pieces of shrink over the years in case I ever need it, some is 2" diameter. I'd say you've come up with an excellent method on your own to do this. You may want to look for that special grease however, it's useful all over the place!
Flintsmooth The anti-oxidizing compound is a good idea, but I would think the oxidizing problem would be extremely minor considering the cable is sealed with heat shrink and glue. Thanks For Watching!
Well done and thanks for sharing. I should have watched this before removing previously used coax compression fittings and re-using. I'll be starting over.
That was impressive and this goes into my tool kit. I would expect that your method is more difficult than the standard, and you admit it takes more time. Most employers would not approve, as they count the workers wages in the cost. However, they don't include the cost of return visits to site. "Never enough time to do it right the first time, but always time to do it again."
Thanks for watching Dale! I have many excellent videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for videos of interest to you and most importantly SHARE.
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
This is very acceptable repair, I am sure there may be some loss, but as noted, any splice is going to introduce some degradation of signal. For the price and convenience this would be hard to beat. I wouldn't worry about the small section of missing foam as it functions a spacer to keep the RF resonance in check and the space IS maintained via this method of repair. I have a broken capillary thermometer tube, need to check on the dimensions now ;>)
Craig Nehring Yes. The center conductor remains in the center of the cable perfectly spaced. All splices create loss, but the loss with this method is low. I have a bag of metal tubes & heat shrink all made up for future repairs to save time.
VERY nice looking job!! My only concern is the possibility of the center connection in particular oxidizing over time and causing problems. That said, I think I will stock a few items in case any of the coax I use on my amateur (ham) radio stuff gets damaged. By the way, Fastenal - an industrial supplies place - carries adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing in different sizes. In locations such as mine where there are NO electronics parts places, often there IS a Fastenal. FWIW.
KarlsLabReport Thanks. If you are worried about the center connector becoming oxidized over time with several points of contact, and being sealed from air using heat shrink tubing with glue, then using coax connectors would really be a problem. :-). You will be just fine.
Frankly, I actually expected some impedance testing / measurements with a signal generator & oscilloscope to check the EXCELLENT quality of the repair. A DMM would've shown the same if you did the repair just with flimsy bell wire & electrical tape.. :)
salat The DMM test was to show the center conductor was well isolated from the outer shielding, nothing more. Years ago I had a cable TV installer perform a test on a wire I made using a handheld unit costing thousands of dollars, and the result was a low loss connection. You can also turn on your TV and use a cable TV diagnostic channel which shows signal strength to verify the connection is low loss. Cable TV boxes usually have hidden diagnostic menus. :-)
Hi, is enought to just connect center wire with center wire of another and then solder it and put a electrical tape over and same procces for aluminium wire?
N!cky No. You will have a lousy connection due to signal loss around the braided shielding. You also cannot solder the braided aluminum shielding, unless it is copper. Thanks For Watching
how do you get the glue inside the heat shrink? and what kind of glue is it? and why isn't it coming off as you slide it up and down the cable? is it heat activated glue or something?
Frank Graffagnino The glue is already applied to the inside of the tubing. When heat is applied, the glue melts and the tube shrinks. Thanks For Watching!
KarlsLabReport RG-8U > .108" center conductor > 1/8" I.D. x .014" walls, and for the shield (.285") use 5/16" I.D. x .014" tube RG-8X > 16ga center conductor > Same size as in the video, and 5/32 I.D. should just make it over the foam insulation which is around .155".
or you could just cut and crimp a new M-F connector. Then you won't have that long section of missing dielectric. That missing section of dielectric can drastically change the signal, especially data. Here in this vid, you may be better off just solder and taping it.
electronicsNmore I think you may be missing the point of the white dielectric material between the center conductor and shield. Depending in the signal, (square, saw, sin...) the system plugged in to accounts for the capacity of the wire. The space between the dielectric and center creates it's own field and capacities. Just like how networking wire needs to be twisted all the way before crimping.
why would i go through all that trouble when i can spend 5 or 6 box than going and looking for all this different size of copper waste of time buy the ends and joiner
cjmovielab Most hardware stores(except Lowes/Home Depot), and all hobby stores sell both metal tubes I showed in the video. You can also buy them on Ebay since I told you the correct sizes. The method shown here is better than screw on coax connectors. It is much more secure(more points of contact). You also have to realize that for the same money you would spend on coax connectors and a coupler, you can have enough supplies for 2-3 more repairs if needed. Clearly this is for people that work with coax often, like me. :-) You would think differently if you were working with larger sizes of coax. The savings would be huge. It is always good to know how to do things alternate ways if the usual supplies cannot be located. Thanks For Watching!
ShawnMrFixit Lee Way over done? Really? Off camera I can do the repair in a few minutes. Kit better than this? Where? Post a link below. I seriously doubt you will beat $1.00 worth or parts, nor have a connection as secure. Thanks for the thumbs down, I will remember that when viewing your videos. :-)
This dude just creat history he follow all the law of keeping a good transmiting coax cable with out soildering which spoils your cable, by using the same lays of current and by using the advantage of conductive material to transmit current and still able to keep the electromagnet layers away from canceling flow (this is pure art peaple 😍 he needs a Grammy .
I used to repair coax in my job, and we had a kit of little copper tubes to fit the inside copper wire. We also had a hand crimper to squash them. There is a conductive grease you can get that goes into the tube and keeps the wires from ever oxidizing. We kept the splice to about an inch long overall, and used a special 'fusion' tape over the inner copper joint, and copper tape to put over the braid, which we kept loosely together (with more grease) and covered with more fusion tape. Then we put the gum-filled heatshrink over the whole thing. (The hot gum in the shrink will BURN you good if you touch it!) I kept small pieces of shrink over the years in case I ever need it, some is 2" diameter.
I'd say you've come up with an excellent method on your own to do this. You may want to look for that special grease however, it's useful all over the place!
Flintsmooth The anti-oxidizing compound is a good idea, but I would think the oxidizing problem would be extremely minor considering the cable is sealed with heat shrink and glue.
Thanks For Watching!
Well done and thanks for sharing. I should have watched this before removing previously used coax compression fittings and re-using. I'll be starting over.
Not a common method, but it sure does work good. Thanks for watching!
That was impressive and this goes into my tool kit. I would expect that your method is more difficult than the standard, and you admit it takes more time. Most employers would not approve, as they count the workers wages in the cost. However, they don't include the cost of return visits to site. "Never enough time to do it right the first time, but always time to do it again."
Thanks for watching Dale! I have many excellent videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for videos of interest to you and most importantly SHARE.
Wonderful video! Thanks from Texas.
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
ruclips.net/user/electronicsnmoreplaylists
@@electronicsNmore what’s that tool you cut the wire with in the beginning called?
@@j0shy19 Hi Josh. Flush cutters. :-) You can find them at the link below. Thanks for watching!
amzn.to/3zX9aTJ
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
Awesome 👍. Thanks very much!
I have gone to double walled with adhesive shrink tube 3:1 for all our offroad wiring now. might be good for this project
Ed Ginsberg That is good stuff. Just as long as the walls are fairly thick, the shrink ratio is good, and there is glue, you are good.
Wow, this is great. Thank you!
This is very acceptable repair, I am sure there may be some loss, but as noted, any splice is going to introduce some degradation of signal. For the price and convenience this would be hard to beat. I wouldn't worry about the small section of missing foam as it functions a spacer to keep the RF resonance in check and the space IS maintained via this method of repair.
I have a broken capillary thermometer tube, need to check on the dimensions now ;>)
Craig Nehring Yes. The center conductor remains in the center of the cable perfectly spaced. All splices create loss, but the loss with this method is low. I have a bag of metal tubes & heat shrink all made up for future repairs to save time.
VERY nice looking job!! My only concern is the possibility of the center connection in particular oxidizing over time and causing problems.
That said, I think I will stock a few items in case any of the coax I use on my amateur (ham) radio stuff gets damaged. By the way, Fastenal - an industrial supplies place - carries adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing in different sizes. In locations such as mine where there are NO electronics parts places, often there IS a Fastenal. FWIW.
KarlsLabReport Thanks. If you are worried about the center connector becoming oxidized over time with several points of contact, and being sealed from air using heat shrink tubing with glue, then using coax connectors would really be a problem. :-). You will be just fine.
I was thinking of the trapped air plus any moisture. Moisture seems to get into EVERYTHING despite measures taken to prevent it.
Cool video. I never knew there were two types of heat shrink. With and without glue. I learned something new.
Just calculated the characteristic impedance with the diameters you mentioned. Came out at 50.9R, almost like you planned it that way :)
Verm1n :-). This does work extremely well. If it didn't, I would never have made a video showing how to do it.
Thanks For Watching!
Great video demonstration! Can this method be applied with RG174? If so, what size heat shrink and metal tubings do I need?
The best thing to do is bring the coax to a hobby shop or hardware store that sells K&S metals tubing. Thanks for watching!
i love your video's
thanks
Very well done sir! I like this idea a lot.
Keep up the videos.
Frankly, I actually expected some impedance testing / measurements with a signal generator & oscilloscope to check the EXCELLENT quality of the repair. A DMM would've shown the same if you did the repair just with flimsy bell wire & electrical tape.. :)
salat The DMM test was to show the center conductor was well isolated from the outer shielding, nothing more. Years ago I had a cable TV installer perform a test on a wire I made using a handheld unit costing thousands of dollars, and the result was a low loss connection. You can also turn on your TV and use a cable TV diagnostic channel which shows signal strength to verify the connection is low loss. Cable TV boxes usually have hidden diagnostic menus. :-)
Hi, is enought to just connect center wire with center wire of another and then solder it and put a electrical tape over and same procces for aluminium wire?
N!cky No. You will have a lousy connection due to signal loss around the braided shielding. You also cannot solder the braided aluminum shielding, unless it is copper.
Thanks For Watching
electronicsNmore It has copper layer on aluminum wire. Thanks anyway.
Well spliced.
sean999ification Thanks Sean
how do you get the glue inside the heat shrink? and what kind of glue is it? and why isn't it coming off as you slide it up and down the cable? is it heat activated glue or something?
Frank Graffagnino The glue is already applied to the inside of the tubing. When heat is applied, the glue melts and the tube shrinks.
Thanks For Watching!
electronicsNmore so, what kind of glue is it? do you buy it pre-made?
Frank Graffagnino All you have to do is buy heat shrink tubing WITH glue.
Do you know off-hand what sizes one needs for RG-8X coax?
KarlsLabReport RG-8U > .108" center conductor > 1/8" I.D. x .014" walls, and for the shield (.285") use 5/16" I.D. x .014" tube
RG-8X > 16ga center conductor > Same size as in the video, and 5/32 I.D. should just make it over the foam insulation which is around .155".
Thank you very much for the input!! Please keep up the good work and check out my KarlsLabReport channel.
thanks for this...
if we pull both side the cable it will remove
No. You use heat shrink with glue. If you're really paranoid, then solder the center conductor to the tube.
or you could just cut and crimp a new M-F connector. Then you won't have that long section of missing dielectric. That missing section of dielectric can drastically change the signal, especially data. Here in this vid, you may be better off just solder and taping it.
Since the center conductor is positioned exactly in the center, surrounded by air and the outer sleeve, I don't think you'll see any drastic changes.
electronicsNmore I think you may be missing the point of the white dielectric material between the center conductor and shield. Depending in the signal, (square, saw, sin...) the system plugged in to accounts for the capacity of the wire. The space between the dielectric and center creates it's own field and capacities. Just like how networking wire needs to be twisted all the way before crimping.
why would i go through all that trouble when i can spend 5 or 6 box than going and looking for all this different size of copper waste of time buy the ends and joiner
cjmovielab Most hardware stores(except Lowes/Home Depot), and all hobby stores sell both metal tubes I showed in the video. You can also buy them on Ebay since I told you the correct sizes. The method shown here is better than screw on coax connectors. It is much more secure(more points of contact). You also have to realize that for the same money you would spend on coax connectors and a coupler, you can have enough supplies for 2-3 more repairs if needed. Clearly this is for people that work with coax often, like me. :-) You would think differently if you were working with larger sizes of coax. The savings would be huge. It is always good to know how to do things alternate ways if the usual supplies cannot be located.
Thanks For Watching!
if on LoRa then get a new cable.
A couple of compression fittings and a coupler, done in a couple minutes.
Not as nice of a job in a few ways.
you pretty smart cookie!!!
I like smart people, and I try to learn from them, thanks mk
Way over done. They make kits that are better than this . CHEAPER to !!
ShawnMrFixit Lee Way over done? Really? Off camera I can do the repair in a few minutes. Kit better than this? Where? Post a link below. I seriously doubt you will beat $1.00 worth or parts, nor have a connection as secure. Thanks for the thumbs down, I will remember that when viewing your videos. :-)
You never view mine !
ShawnMrFixit Lee I have seen you before on my channel, and I have looked at your video list in the past, as I do with many of my viewers.