This video actually helped me find some of the answers to why my Volvo 2.0T -04 doesn’t work properly, unfortunately some remain. Pity this is about Nissan. It’s also a pity these technical solutions require so many items to make a motor run properly and if not,, the amount of resources to get it right again. These “new” cars are like you’re buying cheese ever more holes in it..
That could be a harmonic speed reducer. give a big rate of speed reduction. harmonic reducer used on robotics, lathes, space machines, etc. brushless motor is kind of induction drive.
I'm currently working what, as far as I'm aware, might end up being the 1st production application of harmonic drives on an IC engine (9L heavy duty split-cycle). It was the only option for us due to very high cam torques making high gear ratios necessary (160:1). The challenge has been controlling position well during starting and stopping since they don't have any locking mechanism like hydraulic phasers.
Hi, wonder if you can help me, i purchased this part OEM new. The center part is spinning independently for some reason. Any idea why? Not spinning the valves camshaft.
We need to know what the cam adv/ret pids should read cold at idle. This info seems to never be published. Last one I had an issue with was about an 07 g35. Im gonna start looking on vehicles that don't have issues and record what I see. A nissan Tech on iatn told me they should return to 0 degrees at idle. Do you know is this true across manufacturers. My general strategy, when I have a vvt code, is to momentarily ground the control circuit of the affected solenoid while watching the pid and listening to the engine. But, although some work, they don't always return to zero degrees even unplugged. Yes, a lot of newer ones have the desired/actual in the scan data. not the earlier models. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Hey did you ever find the answer to this? I have an 2011 Infiniti QX56 that has the same problem. The service manuel says that at idle the intake solenoid should register 0 activity, but in my scan tool I see that they are active and advancing the intake cam. On a cold start everything is like it is suppose to be (0 at idle), but once warmed up coolant at about 158F activity goes from 0 to about 20-40% duty cycle on both banks at idle. What could be causing this? Just for reference I also notice that my map sensor also jump from 1v to 1.5v. The service manuel says that should also be 1v at idle and at 1.32 when rpm is at 2000.
@@michaelwitmer7536 Thank you for the response, If I can pick your brain, what do you think is causing them to come on at idle or rather the pcm commanding them on? They are not on when the truck is warming up, but when it reaches operating temp it starts. I have no codes and my idle is butter smooth, so I am really at a lost. Thank you in advance!
@@jacobrutherford9132 I took the time to look again at service data, as usual they are very cryptic. My usual strategy is to look at DESIRED vs ACTUAL in the pids. all the oems use different terms, for example VW uses Specified VS Actual. Ford uses one pid called desired minus actual. If it's not setting codes/ giving performance issues, change the oil every 5k and be happy. Many of these nissans I have fixed by cleaning the screens and reinstalling the same solenoids. Whatever you do if you replace use one from the dealer or you will be sorry. Dormans last about 6 monthes, and some ebay units never functioned correctly out of the box.HTH
It sounds a bit contradictory because on the one hand the idea is pull in a lot of air/fuel/displacement but then the EGR limits the amount of air/fuel/ displacement at 9:41 time explaining the purpose of EGR.confusing to me! ha
Egr leaking into the combustion chamber will cause high compression and low vacuum at idle. Anytime you get more air (or exhaust) into the cylinder it will cause high compression.
Just posting this here to for anyone else who has an answer for this. Thanks. I have an 2011 Infiniti QX56 that has the same problem. The service manuel says that at idle the intake solenoid should register 0 activity, but in my scan tool I see that they are active and advancing the intake cam. On a cold start everything is like it is suppose to be (0 at idle), but once warmed up coolant at about 158F activity goes from 0 to about 20-40% duty cycle on both banks at idle. What could be causing this? Just for reference I also notice that my map sensor also jump from 1v to 1.5v. The service manuel says that should also be 1v at idle and at 1.32 when rpm is at 2000.
Great video, Thanks! Hyundai uses this on the intake since at least 2014. Toyota started using it recently too.
Great explanation and presentation. Well done!
This video actually helped me find some of the answers to why my Volvo 2.0T -04 doesn’t work properly, unfortunately some remain. Pity this is about Nissan. It’s also a pity these technical solutions require so many items to make a motor run properly and if not,, the amount of resources to get it right again. These “new” cars are like you’re buying cheese ever more holes in it..
Very informative; I learned a lot about my electronic system
了解，謝謝分享！
Thank you so much for this informative video. Appreciate the professional approach and quality presentation. 👍
Great presentation, very informative!
That could be a harmonic speed reducer. give a big rate of speed reduction. harmonic reducer used on robotics, lathes, space machines, etc.
brushless motor is kind of induction drive.
I'm currently working what, as far as I'm aware, might end up being the 1st production application of harmonic drives on an IC engine (9L heavy duty split-cycle). It was the only option for us due to very high cam torques making high gear ratios necessary (160:1). The challenge has been controlling position well during starting and stopping since they don't have any locking mechanism like hydraulic phasers.
Very informative
I am trying to figure out of the E-cvvt is good. Did you get a ohm reading on the motor widings.
Hi, wonder if you can help me, i purchased this part OEM new. The center part is spinning independently for some reason. Any idea why? Not spinning the valves camshaft.
Very good ❤
can't you just move toothbelt rollers back and forth (with servo motors) to adjust cam timing?
If true water in side de sensor damage or no working?
We need to know what the cam adv/ret pids should read cold at idle. This info seems to never be published. Last one I had an issue with was about an 07 g35. Im gonna start looking on vehicles that don't have issues and record what I see. A nissan Tech on iatn told me they should return to 0 degrees at idle. Do you know is this true across manufacturers. My general strategy, when I have a vvt code, is to momentarily ground the control circuit of the affected solenoid while watching the pid and listening to the engine. But, although some work, they don't always return to zero degrees even unplugged. Yes, a lot of newer ones have the desired/actual in the scan data. not the earlier models. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Hey did you ever find the answer to this? I have an 2011 Infiniti QX56 that has the same problem. The service manuel says that at idle the intake solenoid should register 0 activity, but in my scan tool I see that they are active and advancing the intake cam. On a cold start everything is like it is suppose to be (0 at idle), but once warmed up coolant at about 158F activity goes from 0 to about 20-40% duty cycle on both banks at idle. What could be causing this? Just for reference I also notice that my map sensor also jump from 1v to 1.5v. The service manuel says that should also be 1v at idle and at 1.32 when rpm is at 2000.
@@jacobrutherford9132 The short answer is yes they should return to Zero at idle.
@@michaelwitmer7536 Thank you for the response, If I can pick your brain, what do you think is causing them to come on at idle or rather the pcm commanding them on? They are not on when the truck is warming up, but when it reaches operating temp it starts. I have no codes and my idle is butter smooth, so I am really at a lost. Thank you in advance!
@@jacobrutherford9132 I took the time to look again at service data, as usual they are very cryptic. My usual strategy is to look at DESIRED vs ACTUAL in the pids. all the oems use different terms, for example VW uses Specified VS Actual. Ford uses one pid called desired minus actual. If it's not setting codes/ giving performance issues, change the oil every 5k and be happy. Many of these nissans I have fixed by cleaning the screens and reinstalling the same solenoids. Whatever you do if you replace use one from the dealer or you will be sorry. Dormans last about 6 monthes, and some ebay units never functioned correctly out of the box.HTH
Thanks
Thank you
It sounds a bit contradictory because on the one hand the idea is pull in a lot of air/fuel/displacement but then the EGR limits the amount of air/fuel/ displacement at 9:41 time explaining the purpose of EGR.confusing to me! ha
❤❤❤❤
Also toyota camry have electric vvt i think
Could the egr effect increase compression?
Egr leaking into the combustion chamber will cause high compression and low vacuum at idle. Anytime you get more air (or exhaust) into the cylinder it will cause high compression.
Just posting this here to for anyone else who has an answer for this. Thanks. I have an 2011 Infiniti QX56 that has the same problem. The service manuel says that at idle the intake solenoid should register 0 activity, but in my scan tool I see that they are active and advancing the intake cam. On a cold start everything is like it is suppose to be (0 at idle), but once warmed up coolant at about 158F activity goes from 0 to about 20-40% duty cycle on both banks at idle. What could be causing this? Just for reference I also notice that my map sensor also jump from 1v to 1.5v. The service manuel says that should also be 1v at idle and at 1.32 when rpm is at 2000.
Att 21:34 Dont he Meen Hi Pressure "FUEL PUMP" ¿¿¿¿