Hi can i ask if you've gone through the planers for weatherboard paint removal? I've read up on it and people have said it dulls the blades very quick and you'll have to really watch out for nails. very interested in this as i've got an exterior whole single story 120 y.o house to do, with 4 layers of paint, 2 sides with lead paint. thinking of forking out for a paint shaver pro. But would love to hear some experience with a planer with enough rebate for the boards. Cheeers, Alex
A customer of mine was a painter. The first time I went to his house I thought it had aluminum siding, it was Perfectly smooth and beautiful. I came to find out that it was wood, and the method he used to strip paint was a 9" Milwaukee angle grinder... Not in my wildest dreams could I wield a grinder with those results. He was one also of those guys that could do Absolutely Anything, and better than most anyone else.
Wow! Thanks for making this video! About 4 years ago I bit the bullet and bought an actual (expensive) Paint Shaver Pro to strip my 140 year old house and I was extremely happy with how well it worked. Depth adjustment was quite easy and it stripped down to the bare wood without and excessive "gouging". I sometimes wondered if maybe an "El Cheapo Paint Shaver" would have done as well for a much lower price. It's nice to see that the expense was apparently well worth it! Lol!
I bought one of these today from Tool Shed. I had a turn with it, then the Mrs did too. Depth adjustment worked fine, but your hacks are valuable tips, especially the side blade deletion, as one of the clips already broke. I'm thinking of setting it on a jig or gantry so I can denib gel coats on panel, or to prep old doors to dead flat before wasting good sanding discs.
I looked at he original paint shaver 20 years ago. The maker sent me a VHS video. The demonstration included a guy on an extension ladder moving along a board and then when he gets up next to the cornerboard he accidently swipes at it and takes off a 2"x2" chunk. This is on the promotional video!
Great to see this demo. I'm removing the paint from the weatherboards and slowly loosing the will to live. Someone suggested this.. price ranging from $3k to $250.. looks brutal be invested to know if the more expensive ones have a better depth adjuster, as it appears on your demo, this was adjuster was bollocks.. cheers Kate NZ
You did a good job showing the flaws of this machine. I'm old school painter and use the 4" and 7" sanders. I was wondering if these machines were any good. You answered my question
I've got the matabo one. Cut a bit too deep out the box but adjusted back easily. Extraction hasn't clogged yet, but it's attached to a. Very powerful shop vac. The finish is ok, not perfect but a quick pass with the random orbit sander and it's paint worthy again. I'm using it on my old stairs they are painted in some weird brown stuff that melts if you try to sand it alone. It's a nightmare and continually clogs sanding pads. The shaver whips it off cold before it can melt and stick tot he tool. I'm happy with it 👍
I got a Saarto model from trademe years ago, used once and shelfed it. The finished was terrible, after using a random Orbital for a couple hours I decided to dust it off. Trialing it out I noticed my depth adjustment didn't work, pulled it apart and discovered it had shims instead of spring washer. So I removed one and it shaves pretty well now. It vibrates quite bad though. Still better than the Orbital alone. Can't remember what I paid for it, wouldn't buy another one. You video provided me with peace of mind lol. My hacks where similar, except the duck tape....off to buy me some.
I bought one of these CMCs (one C stands for crap) and I have the same complaints. I looked up the the Metabo parts list as it seemed to be the same and found that the Metabo used the same spring washer for adjusting the height of the blades (began to wonder if the Metabo is made in China instead of Germany as claimed). There was no way I could set the blades down to a true zero and the current settings just chewed out too much timber. After considerable experimenting I replaced the spring washer with an ordinary 1mm copper washer and found this gave a below zero setting (1.5 was too thick and brought the blades back up to the same height as the original spring washer). From there I made a number of shims from aluminium pie trays, they are quite thin and are easily cut with ordinary scissors. I experimented with the number of shims I required and reached a setting whereby two passes took off the paint on most occasions. I found the blades supplied wear out very fast but the replacement tungsten tipped blades bought separately last much longer. I also found that I had to remove or add shims when I changed the blades around as each side varied slightly in height, additionally the tungsten tipped blades required less shims as they are slightly thicker. Another problem I encountered is that the weatherboards on my house are made from short sections of pine joined with finger joins and I found some sections have very slight bends and miniature warps and at time I could not get the shaver to clean the paint off very well and needed to bypass those areas and come back later after I added another shim. I also found that some sections of the pine were excellent quality and shaved cleanly whilst others did not have such a good finish regardless of what I did. In every case sanding is required afterwards but if you can reduce cutting into the timber in the first place the later sanding is easier, Allan.
Thanks for this review. Like an idiot I got this toy/tool but after struggling with dust capture started looking and found your video that would have warned me off. I found the vacuum adapter really flimsy too and it's hard to keep that from breaking off. As you mention it's hard to get depth adjustment to less than a plough but I like your tape idea along with the other modifications. Will be checking out your other videos to see what other bad purchases I've probably already made
Hi, I have a early model metabo, which is basically the same as the current model without the depth of cut adjustment, and have not had a problem with finish. It will leave a slightly furry finish on softwoods, but on hardwoods leaves a smooth finish. I would try reducing the depth of cut, and when you place it on the board, place the rear of the base down first and the lower the front and move forward, and do long strokes like hand planing a board, and over lap the next run. The side cutting doesn't work properly on weatherboards because they are not square, weather boards are cut as a triangle, where that feature shines is in stripping paint off stairs and the joint between treads and strings or tread and riser. If you have timbers that have cupped or bowed you will work so you don't make it worse. As an example if you had a painted floor and it has cupped, running diagionally across the boards will flatten them, you are basically running across the high points taking them off first. Just like a planer, it is better to do multiple passes taking off less material than attempting to rip it off in one pass. They are excellent at what they are designed to do, and are about the only thing that can remove things like acrylic coatings. And they are useful for removing other coatings from wood, I have just spent the last weekend removing adhesive from a floor, a light sand and it will be ready to polish. Hope that helps.
".. I have just spent the last weekend removing adhesive from a floor..." Carpet/padding adhesive? How old? Hard or soft? What solvent did you use if any? You used a Metabo to remove old, hardened glue? Many thanks, we're experimenting/struggling with removing decades (25-40? years?) of old blackened, hardened padding adhesive on oak floor boards in a 1924 house. Not much fun & very slow going with Krud Kutter solvent followed by manual scraping!
@@kooale Hi Ken, Not sure how old the glue was, but it was hard and abrasive (possibly from the dust that would have gone through the direct carpet) the house was built in the 1950's, and the glue was quite thick. You could see the notched trowel marks used to spread it. I did use a few sets of cutters, but they cost around 60 bucks for 10, each of which has 4 edges, and I did around 25 sq metres of floor and used 6 full tips and two sides of the next two, so about $40 in tips. The floor boards had also cupped, and it flattened those as well , so the end result was an incredible change. The new Metabo is around $650 to $700. My sister in law (who has bought the house) did try some solvents, not sure exactly what but normal things like paint stripper, paint solvent acetone etc and hand scraping, which is a lot of hard work. Sanding was also a waste of time as it just clogged the abrasive. I did have to hand scrape into the corners as the cutter is circular around 70 - 80 mm diameter, but with the side covers up, it did right up to the skirting and left the floor clean. Not sure where you are located, but some hire companies have had them. You will need a good vaccum cleaner to attach to the machine to remove the shavings. Going thorugh a small cyclone would be a good idea too. Hope that helps.
Thank you so much, i ordered one off Trademe and it arrived today. thanks to your vid I was able to adjust the blades down from definitely not zero, to just above zero, otherwise i would have just ripped in and ruined my work .
you say its criminal to use Rimu, I brought one of these to shave my 110 year old Kauri weather boards and looking for tricks. they would have needed replacing 3 times had only pine been available and they will outlive me by the looks 😁. thanks for the video
I've used these on a few occasions over the last 20 years at work. They're very good at stripping but can really damage the surface very easily and that could cost you a lot more time than the machine has saved. If there's any sort of nails or pins etc.. that have been painted over but not recessed and filled be prepared to go through a lot of blades too. Definitely not for the average tradesman or handyman if you want a decent finish. For loose or old paints it's not worth the risks, just use a decent 150mm random orbital sander(festo, bosch, makita) with 40-120g and vacuum. It's only worth using on extremely hard to sand coatings like epoxies or gelcoats in my opinion.
I have the metabo version. It is accurate right out of the box and will take single coats of paint off on the .1 setting. There is a learning curve. I find its best to start with the back of the tool flat on the surface, then rotate the cutting head onto the surface if that makes sense. This prevents it digging in. I find it leaves a pretty good surface behind that like you say, is quick to clean up. I would say it strips quicker than a sharp 40grit sand paper on the festool rotex, without any clogging, and the surface left behind is easier to clean up than what 40g leaves behind. With the amount of material it removes very quickly, you need a good dust extractor, preferably with autoclean. I would skip the skinny 25mm hose use at least a 36mm hose. There will still be mess.
I have the same machine. It works really good. Just need to have a good method and steady hand with strong shoulder, if you are up there in a 30 feet ladder. Or so...
Thanks man, bummer just bought the el cheapo will see how it goes.I thought the planner would be better but couldnt find one with right clearance for weatherboard....mustnt of looked hard enough lol
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Hi can i ask if you've gone through the planers for weatherboard paint removal? I've read up on it and people have said it dulls the blades very quick and you'll have to really watch out for nails. very interested in this as i've got an exterior whole single story 120 y.o house to do, with 4 layers of paint, 2 sides with lead paint. thinking of forking out for a paint shaver pro. But would love to hear some experience with a planer with enough rebate for the boards. Cheeers, Alex
3:23 you must Drive it backwards. Think about the turning Wheel is 0,3 mm deeper and the back is on the Level Zero. When you check it you drive it first sidewards teen backwards
I have the expensive one it is just as hard to use onece the blades wear down and pull it back wards it a bit better but the air extraction is the same rubbish ,great description man very hard to use
John, can use specify the mfr. & model # of "the expensive one" please. I'm in the market & pretty discouraged by all these negative reviews & comments, so I'm just struggling with exactly what to buy & what to avoid with these tool varieties. Many thanks
Thanks so much for this review! I've just bought a Metabo and am too scared to even switch the thing on. I'll be asking if I can return it and will just buy a quality sander instead and just take more time renovating the windows. Thanks again!
I know what you mean, but there is still cracks that have been filled, bad joins, and getting into all the tight areas around windows, roofline etc. But in a perfect world I would have loved to do that.
Personally I would probably still use a standard planer as it will be cheaper to replace the blades than buy one of these tools and they leave a really rough job compared to a standard planer.
Do you think this tool would be effective in removing polyurethane as opposed to paint? I have wood walls in my house (an off-brand Lockwood) and am trying to find a way to get them back to bare wood that doesn't just involve weeks with an orbital sander.
I Bought a Metabo. And it is the boss!! Provided you attach a dust extractor otherwise it will clogg up. This knock off from what i can see of your vid is no where near as good as the real deal.
you have to slide it the other way around.this way you are removing 0.3mm additionally, so every length of the device(about 25cm) you get an additional 0.3mm added to the cut (since the machine will use the already shaved material as a stabilising point). This leads to a slightly tapered surface.
That's what reviews are all about aren't they??? Would you rather I just faked it like most people on RUclips and said it was fantastic and get a pay out from the company???
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I think this is a better option now: amzn.to/2KjS3ne
Question: how well would this tool work for stripping paint off a plastered wall??
Would make a hell of a mess I imagine.
Hi can i ask if you've gone through the planers for weatherboard paint removal? I've read up on it and people have said it dulls the blades very quick and you'll have to really watch out for nails. very interested in this as i've got an exterior whole single story 120 y.o house to do, with 4 layers of paint, 2 sides with lead paint. thinking of forking out for a paint shaver pro. But would love to hear some experience with a planer with enough rebate for the boards.
Cheeers,
Alex
How many replacement blades would you need for a 3 bdrm NZ hse?
A customer of mine was a painter. The first time I went to his house I thought it had aluminum siding, it was Perfectly smooth and beautiful. I came to find out that it was wood, and the method he used to strip paint was a 9" Milwaukee angle grinder... Not in my wildest dreams could I wield a grinder with those results. He was one also of those guys that could do Absolutely Anything, and better than most anyone else.
Wow! Thanks for making this video! About 4 years ago I bit the bullet and bought an actual (expensive) Paint Shaver Pro to strip my 140 year old house and I was extremely happy with how well it worked. Depth adjustment was quite easy and it stripped down to the bare wood without and excessive "gouging". I sometimes wondered if maybe an "El Cheapo Paint Shaver" would have done as well for a much lower price. It's nice to see that the expense was apparently well worth it! Lol!
I'm wondering that too..
@@KateMetcalfe-f1p The Paint Shaver Pro worked like a dream for me. I wouldn't hesitate to get one again - but the one I bought still works great!
I bought one of these today from Tool Shed. I had a turn with it, then the Mrs did too. Depth adjustment worked fine, but your hacks are valuable tips, especially the side blade deletion, as one of the clips already broke. I'm thinking of setting it on a jig or gantry so I can denib gel coats on panel, or to prep old doors to dead flat before wasting good sanding discs.
I looked at he original paint shaver 20 years ago. The maker sent me a VHS video. The demonstration included a guy on an extension ladder moving along a board and then when he gets up next to the cornerboard he accidently swipes at it and takes off a 2"x2" chunk. This is on the promotional video!
Hahahaha
Great to see this demo. I'm removing the paint from the weatherboards and slowly loosing the will to live. Someone suggested this.. price ranging from $3k to $250.. looks brutal be invested to know if the more expensive ones have a better depth adjuster, as it appears on your demo, this was adjuster was bollocks.. cheers Kate NZ
You did a good job showing the flaws of this machine. I'm old school painter and use the 4" and 7" sanders. I was wondering if these machines were any good. You answered my question
I've got the matabo one. Cut a bit too deep out the box but adjusted back easily. Extraction hasn't clogged yet, but it's attached to a. Very powerful shop vac. The finish is ok, not perfect but a quick pass with the random orbit sander and it's paint worthy again. I'm using it on my old stairs they are painted in some weird brown stuff that melts if you try to sand it alone. It's a nightmare and continually clogs sanding pads. The shaver whips it off cold before it can melt and stick tot he tool. I'm happy with it 👍
Sounds like it may be shellac? - that stuff comes right off with alcohol and steel wool.
@@soil-playthank you for the tip, I had no idea! Will give it a go if I find any more of it.
I got a Saarto model from trademe years ago, used once and shelfed it. The finished was terrible, after using a random Orbital for a couple hours I decided to dust it off. Trialing it out I noticed my depth adjustment didn't work, pulled it apart and discovered it had shims instead of spring washer. So I removed one and it shaves pretty well now. It vibrates quite bad though. Still better than the Orbital alone. Can't remember what I paid for it, wouldn't buy another one. You video provided me with peace of mind lol. My hacks where similar, except the duck tape....off to buy me some.
Thank you mate
I bought one of these CMCs (one C stands for crap) and I have the same complaints. I looked up the the Metabo parts list as it seemed to be the same and found that the Metabo used the same spring washer for adjusting the height of the blades (began to wonder if the Metabo is made in China instead of Germany as claimed). There was no way I could set the blades down to a true zero and the current settings just chewed out too much timber. After considerable experimenting I replaced the spring washer with an ordinary 1mm copper washer and found this gave a below zero setting (1.5 was too thick and brought the blades back up to the same height as the original spring washer).
From there I made a number of shims from aluminium pie trays, they are quite thin and are easily cut with ordinary scissors. I experimented with the number of shims I required and reached a setting whereby two passes took off the paint on most occasions. I found the blades supplied wear out very fast but the replacement tungsten tipped blades bought separately last much longer. I also found that I had to remove or add shims when I changed the blades around as each side varied slightly in height, additionally the tungsten tipped blades required less shims as they are slightly thicker.
Another problem I encountered is that the weatherboards on my house are made from short sections of pine joined with finger joins and I found some sections have very slight bends and miniature warps and at time I could not get the shaver to clean the paint off very well and needed to bypass those areas and come back later after I added another shim. I also found that some sections of the pine were excellent quality and shaved cleanly whilst others did not have such a good finish regardless of what I did. In every case sanding is required afterwards but if you can reduce cutting into the timber in the first place the later sanding is easier, Allan.
Excellent points . Thank you
Global parts
Excellent review. Saved me some money. Thanks.
Thanks for this review. Like an idiot I got this toy/tool but after struggling with dust capture started looking and found your video that would have warned me off. I found the vacuum adapter really flimsy too and it's hard to keep that from breaking off. As you mention it's hard to get depth adjustment to less than a plough but I like your tape idea along with the other modifications. Will be checking out your other videos to see what other bad purchases I've probably already made
There is a Infrared Paint stripper that simply heats the paint and you can scrape it off. No damage, depending on what you use to scrape.
You can also buy adjustable hot air guns with paint removing attachments and that can be used to other jobs too and all type of building details .
I have the infrared one - it's not bad
Thanks man. Great review
Cheers
Hi, I have a early model metabo, which is basically the same as the current model without the depth of cut adjustment, and have not had a problem with finish. It will leave a slightly furry finish on softwoods, but on hardwoods leaves a smooth finish. I would try reducing the depth of cut, and when you place it on the board, place the rear of the base down first and the lower the front and move forward, and do long strokes like hand planing a board, and over lap the next run.
The side cutting doesn't work properly on weatherboards because they are not square, weather boards are cut as a triangle, where that feature shines is in stripping paint off stairs and the joint between treads and strings or tread and riser.
If you have timbers that have cupped or bowed you will work so you don't make it worse. As an example if you had a painted floor and it has cupped, running diagionally across the boards will flatten them, you are basically running across the high points taking them off first.
Just like a planer, it is better to do multiple passes taking off less material than attempting to rip it off in one pass.
They are excellent at what they are designed to do, and are about the only thing that can remove things like acrylic coatings.
And they are useful for removing other coatings from wood, I have just spent the last weekend removing adhesive from a floor, a light sand and it will be ready to polish.
Hope that helps.
".. I have just spent the last weekend removing adhesive from a floor..." Carpet/padding adhesive? How old? Hard or soft? What solvent did you use if any? You used a Metabo to remove old, hardened glue? Many thanks, we're experimenting/struggling with removing decades (25-40? years?) of old blackened, hardened padding adhesive on oak floor boards in a 1924 house. Not much fun & very slow going with Krud Kutter solvent followed by manual scraping!
@@kooale Hi Ken, Not sure how old the glue was, but it was hard and abrasive (possibly from the dust that would have gone through the direct carpet) the house was built in the 1950's, and the glue was quite thick. You could see the notched trowel marks used to spread it. I did use a few sets of cutters, but they cost around 60 bucks for 10, each of which has 4 edges, and I did around 25 sq metres of floor and used 6 full tips and two sides of the next two, so about $40 in tips. The floor boards had also cupped, and it flattened those as well , so the end result was an incredible change.
The new Metabo is around $650 to $700.
My sister in law (who has bought the house) did try some solvents, not sure exactly what but normal things like paint stripper, paint solvent acetone etc and hand scraping, which is a lot of hard work. Sanding was also a waste of time as it just clogged the abrasive.
I did have to hand scrape into the corners as the cutter is circular around 70 - 80 mm diameter, but with the side covers up, it did right up to the skirting and left the floor clean.
Not sure where you are located, but some hire companies have had them.
You will need a good vaccum cleaner to attach to the machine to remove the shavings. Going thorugh a small cyclone would be a good idea too.
Hope that helps.
Use a variable speed buffer with a sanding pad go slow with 40 grit to remove the paint then 80 then orbital sanded
Thank you so much, i ordered one off Trademe and it arrived today. thanks to your vid I was able to adjust the blades down from definitely not zero, to just above zero, otherwise i would have just ripped in and ruined my work .
you say its criminal to use Rimu, I brought one of these to shave my 110 year old Kauri weather boards and looking for tricks. they would have needed replacing 3 times had only pine been available and they will outlive me by the looks 😁. thanks for the video
Can you review the Metabo one ?
I've used these on a few occasions over the last 20 years at work. They're very good at stripping but can really damage the surface very easily and that could cost you a lot more time than the machine has saved. If there's any sort of nails or pins etc.. that have been painted over but not recessed and filled be prepared to go through a lot of blades too. Definitely not for the average tradesman or handyman if you want a decent finish. For loose or old paints it's not worth the risks, just use a decent 150mm random orbital sander(festo, bosch, makita) with 40-120g and vacuum. It's only worth using on extremely hard to sand coatings like epoxies or gelcoats in my opinion.
The metabo is an amazing tool. Totally different machine despite the similar appearance and supposed "same exact specs".
You get what you pay for.
Do you have any link to the original "el cheapo" machine. The one with one quarts the price compared to metabo.
I have the metabo version. It is accurate right out of the box and will take single coats of paint off on the .1 setting. There is a learning curve. I find its best to start with the back of the tool flat on the surface, then rotate the cutting head onto the surface if that makes sense. This prevents it digging in.
I find it leaves a pretty good surface behind that like you say, is quick to clean up. I would say it strips quicker than a sharp 40grit sand paper on the festool rotex, without any clogging, and the surface left behind is easier to clean up than what 40g leaves behind.
With the amount of material it removes very quickly, you need a good dust extractor, preferably with autoclean. I would skip the skinny 25mm hose use at least a 36mm hose. There will still be mess.
How expensive is the metabo version you used? I've only seen a $1500+ version.
@@TubeVoyeur mine is the LF724. Aprox $680AUD. I picked mine up on sale
I have the same machine. It works really good. Just need to have a good method and steady hand with strong shoulder, if you are up there in a 30 feet ladder. Or so...
Thanks
Have u got a link to how yr house is now?
Would the makita planner be a better option?
This one is ruclips.net/video/iwQGO5HadFw/видео.html
Thanks man, bummer just bought the el cheapo will see how it goes.I thought the planner would be better but couldnt find one with right clearance for weatherboard....mustnt of looked hard enough lol
The corded Triton one also has the required clearance.
I have been meaning to make a video about the Makita planer doing weatherboards but haven't got around to it yet
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Hi can i ask if you've gone through the planers for weatherboard paint removal? I've read up on it and people have said it dulls the blades very quick and you'll have to really watch out for nails. very interested in this as i've got an exterior whole single story 120 y.o house to do, with 4 layers of paint, 2 sides with lead paint. thinking of forking out for a paint shaver pro. But would love to hear some experience with a planer with enough rebate for the boards.
Cheeers,
Alex
3:23 you must Drive it backwards. Think about the turning Wheel is 0,3 mm deeper and the back is on the Level Zero. When you check it you drive it first sidewards teen backwards
I have the expensive one it is just as hard to use onece the blades wear down and pull it back wards it a bit better but the air extraction is the same rubbish ,great description man very hard to use
John, can use specify the mfr. & model # of "the expensive one" please. I'm in the market & pretty discouraged by all these negative reviews & comments, so I'm just struggling with exactly what to buy & what to avoid with these tool varieties. Many thanks
How close is this to the Metabo version
Thanks so much for this review! I've just bought a Metabo and am too scared to even switch the thing on. I'll be asking if I can return it and will just buy a quality sander instead and just take more time renovating the windows. Thanks again!
The metabo is a wonderfull device. You should use it after reading the manual.
Great review, now I don't know whether to spend the extra on the Metabo?
Will you remove the millimeter of gel coat? On a boat, an electric brush breaks the roughing cylinder, thanks
where can I get one of these???
Wonder if a Metabo version would be better or if the whole concept is not worth the effort and just hit it with a sander ?
Um, the normal planer doesn't cut all the way up the sides - is that the reason for not doing the whole job with it?
The standard planer shape means I can only do the bottom half of each board.
I wouldn't paint that after all that work.
I'd want to clear coat it.
I know what you mean, but there is still cracks that have been filled, bad joins, and getting into all the tight areas around windows, roofline etc. But in a perfect world I would have loved to do that.
Hi, how well do you think this would work on RS timber? I don't want to use a planer as this would really stuff up the blades quickly.
I haven't tried it on rough sawn. Are you talking about painted rough sawn?
Yes, i have lengths of 6x2 rimu about 2.4m long that have been painted, to clean up.
Personally I would probably still use a standard planer as it will be cheaper to replace the blades than buy one of these tools and they leave a really rough job compared to a standard planer.
Can you provide a link to this tool? The only link I see is to the metabo.
Where do live?
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL U.S.
Sorry but I can't seem to find any available in the U.S. Just the Metabo one.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL can you give me the name of the website you bought yours from? Ali baba, wish, ect. Will ship to the us.
I can't find it on all the usuals (Ali bab, ebay etc) strangely enough, even though there are tonnes of different ones available here on TradeMe.
Do you think this tool would be effective in removing polyurethane as opposed to paint? I have wood walls in my house (an off-brand Lockwood) and am trying to find a way to get them back to bare wood that doesn't just involve weeks with an orbital sander.
I would not use this tool.
I would now tend to go with either this amzn.to/2KjS3ne or the new Makita DKP181
I will take a long time to reapair all the damages. Speedheater 1100 is better
I Bought a Metabo. And it is the boss!! Provided you attach a dust extractor otherwise it will clogg up. This knock off from what i can see of your vid is no where near as good as the real deal.
Can the cutting blades be adjusted to reduce the cutting depth?
I take it you didn't have time to watch the video.
I use a palm planer. Look it up.
Thanks for saving me $215 mate
you have to slide it the other way around.this way you are removing 0.3mm additionally, so every length of the device(about 25cm) you get an additional 0.3mm added to the cut (since the machine will use the already shaved material as a stabilising point). This leads to a slightly tapered surface.
thanks for sharing matey. Weymouth
lol those houses are still standing BECAUSE they used that wood not like the 10 year crap houses of today.
Its a thickness planer that is all
A good old high-speed grinder with 40 grit sand paper. Or a belt sander.
It's a paint planer. Excellent.
Bad copy of a Metabo Paint Shaver
If you don't go around setting nails this machine will be rendered useless in seconds.
Wow. I'm amazed that you spent time making a video where you use the word "cheap" a dozen times and in the final analysis, it's a POS. Shocking!
That's what reviews are all about aren't they??? Would you rather I just faked it like most people on RUclips and said it was fantastic and get a pay out from the company???
#First
Never use "no name" machines for such work. Use a Metabo LF 850 S or older LF724 S, then you'll be happy.