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Good vid! I've seen this method touted numerous times but never seen any meaningful results. It would be great to see a follow-up video on this in a few months to show efficacy.
I have a large number of beech in my woodlots. It makes great firewood. When I cut down a tree I spray glyphosate on the stump to prevent other growth. Your approach will work well for the much smaller trees that I don't harvest. Thank you.
Good information. I’m just a curious person at this point learning what I can and considering buying some timberland. Nothing huge but for me 40-50 acres are large parcels. The hack and squirt method is common approach. I’ve watch other videos on this process and would recommend to your readers to consider putting a dye in the spray bottle. This doesn’t affect its effectiveness but will help seeing where and what you have treated as you go. It would also be informative to revisit and walk the parcel in 6-12 months and see how effective your treatment was .
100% agree. My biggest problem was human error due to missed stems, so dye definitely helps. I plan on doing a follow up video, but got rained out every opportunity I had this past season, so it didn't work out. Stay tuned!
Here in NH I’ve seen very little browse on beech by deer or moose. I’ve seen 50 acre+ clear cuts in the White Mountain National Forest on beech only regrowth because they didn’t treat the stumps so the beech root sprouted and the deer/moose browsed any oak and maple growth so it turned into a beech monoculture.
Unfortunately, that's very common, and it can be devastating for the forest's future. I'm of the opinion that if a stand has at least 10% beech, a follow-up herbicide treatment should be used to prevent this from happening.
Not yet, this past summer was terrible for weather, so I never got a good opportunity with the drone. Anecdotally, it was about 80% effective with the biggest issue being human error--which is to say I missed a lot. If I were to do anything over, Id probably use a dye to more easily see what I had sprayed.
@@thetimberlandinvestor Thanks for the reply. I just did a few trees outside my property and I used Triclopyr and diesel. I was searching everywhere for a hack and squirt using glyphosate . I live in Asia and either side of me is jungle. It's worked on some of the trees very well and not at all on others. I'll try with the same mix you had and hope for better results.
There are a lot of theories on how to harvest (without herbicides) to limit resprouting. Ive seen them all, and personally I don't think any are reliably effective enough to promote. In regards to winter/summer harvests, I haven't been able to see a difference at all.
Yes, beech does grow relatively fast for a hardwood, and even after it gets hit with BBD, it still makes a great firewood. In my case, however, I have plenty of other firewood species, and I am managing this parcel mostly for sawtimber.
The species is native, but the beech scale, the insect that introduces the fungus that causes beech canker disease is not. Forests and the ecological niches of trees have changed drastically over the last 100 years, mostly due to invasives. In the case of beech, it has very little ecological benefit compared to 1900. That said, with the loss of both chestnut and beech as major producers of mast in the northeast, oaks have only become more important to fill that void.
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Good vid! I've seen this method touted numerous times but never seen any meaningful results. It would be great to see a follow-up video on this in a few months to show efficacy.
"I'm really glad I read that, because I was planning to apply without pants on today." 😆🤣
I have a large number of beech in my woodlots. It makes great firewood. When I cut down a tree I spray glyphosate on the stump to prevent other growth. Your approach will work well for the much smaller trees that I don't harvest. Thank you.
Stump application is another great method of application if the trees are being harvested. Thanks for the comment!
Good information. I’m just a curious person at this point learning what I can and considering buying some timberland. Nothing huge but for me 40-50 acres are large parcels. The hack and squirt method is common approach. I’ve watch other videos on this process and would recommend to your readers to consider putting a dye in the spray bottle. This doesn’t affect its effectiveness but will help seeing where and what you have treated as you go. It would also be informative to revisit and walk the parcel in 6-12 months and see how effective your treatment was .
100% agree. My biggest problem was human error due to missed stems, so dye definitely helps.
I plan on doing a follow up video, but got rained out every opportunity I had this past season, so it didn't work out. Stay tuned!
Great video !!!!
Here in NH I’ve seen very little browse on beech by deer or moose. I’ve seen 50 acre+ clear cuts in the White Mountain National Forest on beech only regrowth because they didn’t treat the stumps so the beech root sprouted and the deer/moose browsed any oak and maple growth so it turned into a beech monoculture.
Unfortunately, that's very common, and it can be devastating for the forest's future. I'm of the opinion that if a stand has at least 10% beech, a follow-up herbicide treatment should be used to prevent this from happening.
I didn’t realize until the past year how invasive they can be depending upon how a wood lot is managed and the soil of the lot.
Great information, when exactly can you spray, summer, winter, fall, can you spring in spring with Feb, March?
results vid?
I hate mowing my lawn too
How long does the glyphosate stay active in the tree/tree roots after application? Thanks G
Did you do a follow up showing results ?
Not yet, this past summer was terrible for weather, so I never got a good opportunity with the drone. Anecdotally, it was about 80% effective with the biggest issue being human error--which is to say I missed a lot. If I were to do anything over, Id probably use a dye to more easily see what I had sprayed.
@@thetimberlandinvestor Thanks for the reply. I just did a few trees outside my property and I used Triclopyr and diesel. I was searching everywhere for a hack and squirt using glyphosate . I live in Asia and either side of me is jungle. It's worked on some of the trees very well and not at all on others. I'll try with the same mix you had and hope for better results.
i hear you can cut in fall or winter when it is dormant, and it will not resprout
There are a lot of theories on how to harvest (without herbicides) to limit resprouting. Ive seen them all, and personally I don't think any are reliably effective enough to promote. In regards to winter/summer harvests, I haven't been able to see a difference at all.
Would it still grow enough to yield any firewood before the beech bark disease gets it. I have a small 5 acre homestead in upstate ny?
Yes, beech does grow relatively fast for a hardwood, and even after it gets hit with BBD, it still makes a great firewood.
In my case, however, I have plenty of other firewood species, and I am managing this parcel mostly for sawtimber.
I love to see old beech with bear claw marks in them from many years past.
Seems pretty crazy to poison a native american species.
The species is native, but the beech scale, the insect that introduces the fungus that causes beech canker disease is not.
Forests and the ecological niches of trees have changed drastically over the last 100 years, mostly due to invasives. In the case of beech, it has very little ecological benefit compared to 1900. That said, with the loss of both chestnut and beech as major producers of mast in the northeast, oaks have only become more important to fill that void.