6C33C Monster Tube Amp Build: Whoops, let's start over :)
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2024
- Whoops, I forgot about Hammond's bridge rectifier current multiplier, plus I had a day to reflect on this project. So as usual, we are shifting gears :)
And honestly it likely will shift again before we really dive into the build so stay tuned for updates!
Warning DO NOT START BUYING PARTS! Other than maybe the 600 ohm output transformers, the build is likely to change!
In this video series I want to start by showing my thought processes as I take a schematic from an online download to a working amp using parts that are readily available to me. Sometimes a design is done in a different part of the world or in a different time and parts need to be adapted to work. In this video I start with the power supply, the heart of every tube amp!
Here is the design software I used in the video:
www.duncanamps.com/psud2/
The original article can be found here:
www.dhtrob.com/projecten/6c33...
You can send me links and messaged at:
www.skunkiedesigns.com/contact
I have a new personal email: stephe@skunkiedesigns.com
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www.patreon.com/user?u=87080658
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Here is where you can buy T-shirts and other Merch with my fun logo.
skunkie-designs.myspreadshop.... 
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Cool, seems to make a lot of sense to go with a fixed bias here. That cathode resistor would have serious dissipation. I think you are on the right track here now! Best of luck with this one.
Well, no, not exactly. There's a huge tradeoff that could destroy the 6C33B. The tube has a rated transconductance of 40,000umhos. Try operating one of these in fixed bias and watch the plate current take off like a rocket with changes in bias conditions. For my money, I would stick with cathode bias on this tube.
I want to express my gratitude to Chris Hornbeck for his kind comment on the DIY Audio forum site. If more individuals offered constructive feedback as pleasantly as Chris does, the DIY amplifier forum communities would be much more enjoyable.
100%!
I guess a positive for putting that low amount of voltage on the plate will result in a long lasting tube, you’ll likely never have to replace them. The extra cost of that transformer is well worth it, especially because it can easily be used in another build. Another reason to wait for a BOM…lol. I’ll still wait til all your measurements are done just in case. Cool way to switch between the plate and heaters. The Tavish phono pre I bought has the same two switches which do a similar thing, and it really doesn’t matter which one you switch on first.
Yes, there’s always a kind way to say something, rather than looking like an a-hole, especially when a comment doesn’t have the inflection. I have no doubt your finished design will be intelligently done and well thought out.
Thanks, Stephe!
Well done Stephe. The worthwhile journey has ups and downs. Love your style. (From Down Under)
Здравствуйте, рекомендую использовать комбинированное смещение выходных ламп авто-фиксированное !
Удачи в ваших проектах !
Awesome video, glad you caught error in time. Can't wait until the next video 👍
Incorporating a time delay relay tube would add a cool feature to the warmup design. I remember one of your videos mentioned this type of tube. A 180-second delay would be compatible with the 6C33C. Current specifications would need to be checked.
They can't handle this current
I really, really appreciate that you always try to integrate international DIY-Follower.
Thanx for that
Cheers
Stefan
No problem!
Another thing I will add is that it seems like the modern sockets for these tubes are not up to the task. Most of the old forum threads I have looked at recommended the Soviet Military surplus ceramic sockets, and taking extra precautions to space them from the chassis with Teflon standoffs.
very nice project im jus wait see this beutiful in the finish he speak
Why not implement Dave Gillespie's EFB biasing scheme (enhanced fixed-bias, AKA tracking bias). As a somewhat inherently unstable tube, the 6C33C seems ideally suited to the use of EFB to prevent runaways, particularly since you are working from a cathode bias schematic.
As the B+ rises, the negative bias voltage will increase proportionately, and vice versa, so that the operating point can always remain in the optimal design center of the tube's parameters, via a solid state bias regulation network (consisting of no more than two resistors, one small capacitor, a potentiometer, and an LM337 adjustable negative voltage regulator).
The bias current is not drawn from a separate supply, but is derived from the B+ of the tube itself, thus ensuring tracking, and stability. I will let Dave's own words lay out some of the other benefits...
1. maintains the minimum distortion operating point under all conditions of use...
2. provides exacting, fixed bias operation at the cathodes, and solves the problems attributed to the original cathode bias...
3. (prevents) under-biased tubes at quiescent conditions, which (shorten) their life, and, over-biased tubes...
4. (provides) greater power output, (while) doing so with at least 20% less dissipation under quiescent conditions.
As an aside, seeing as this is a very high current tube, you may have to parallel two LM337 regulators together to handle the load.
A Linear Technologies LT1185 negative regulator could also be used. It is rated to 3 amperes
Hi Stephe. May I suggest an alternative power transformer that might make construction easier for you? Please check out AnTek’s AS-2T200, 200VA toroidal transformer, reasonably priced in the U.S. ($52.00 minus the optional cover) This model covers all of your power transformer requirements for a single channel. It’s also not “insanely” large and runs cool and quiet. This item features (2) 115v primary windings, (2) 200v secondaries which will provide up to 320mA when paralleled, and (2) 6.3v heater windings rated at 4A each. One winding could conceivably run one half of a 6C33B heater and the other heater winding for your driver tube with plenty of current to spare. You will need to switch out the H.V. supply for warmup, but that shouldn’t be a problem if you put a switch on the 200v A.C. side (I suggest a DPDT for the full winding). Find specificatons on the flash drive I sent you. (PDF Files => Catalogs => Transformers => AnTek => AS-2T200)
I’m sold on toroidal power transformers for tube audio. Try this one out for your future builds.
If you use a bridge rectifier on the 250V AC, I don't think you can use the 50V to generate a raw bias supply. (with half way rectifying you could) I could be wrong, didn't put effort in thinking it over.
And that's not what I am doing.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics Sorry, my fault. I see now that the transformer is suited for the classical tube way of rectifying. (be it diodes or tube rectifying)
I thought the filament should be hot before the plate voltage is applied to avoid cathode stripping, so the switching order would be important? Although this seems a controversial issue. Also I thought slowing the switch on current surge on the filament was a good idea, but some say they are designed for that, so not to worry. What do you think is the advantage of having separate plate and filament switches, is it just a stand by setting?
I don't bother on most amps, but I know these tubes are very slow to warm up.
Hi, parallel chokes for th driver tub can caus motorboating, I got that in my 2 stag 845 amp, had to conect in serie to get away from the problem
Br Svante
Yeah I have another plan :)
Call for random advice: I tried some gold lions and tung sol tubes in my yaqin MC100B to replace the stock shuguang. I can’t hear any difference. Should i persevere or give up? I wish I could hear something different or better…
Likely the amp design doesn't lend itself to hearing a difference.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I received a set of KT88 Gold Lions I was planning to return and still tried them out and now I hear a difference. The image is centered whereas curiously the Shuguang had it skewed to the right. Also there is more bass and deeper bass and a bit tighter bass. I had to turn down the bass on my Preamp by 1 notch. And the image is generally a bit clearer. You hear all kinds of things like the preamp tubes have more influence than the large ones. I guess it really depends on every amp? In any case thanks.
Also not sure what "pre-amp" you are using or even why you are using one, but I have found that anything with tone controls destroys nuances in the signal so much, you will never hear changes made downstream from that device.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics Thanks for your advice! In the end I did hear an improvement in the punchiness and bass extension and the staging was perfectly centered.
Or simply go straight OTL with this
That's a whole nother can or worms.
Дайте мне вашу почту и я вам отправлю проверенный проект с идеальным драйверным каскадом
stephe@skunkiedesigns.com
Я отправил проверьте почту папка 6s33s
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