A quick strop will tell my old eyes if a micro roll came on my new knife. I do have to sharpen my stainless a bit more often. Sandy bottom land makes it hard to tell tho.
For batoning at least 2 inches of the blade should be freely out of the wood to get baton. So for mora companion a 2 inches diameter wood is more or less the biggest it should take.
Apologies Rob for starting off with a negative comment. What I should have said was, what a great resource your videos are turning out to be. Practical, knowledgeable and informative. A real treasure trove of stuff from someone who knows what he is talking about. Diolch yn fawr!
At last!!! Someone who actually knows how to feather stick correctly. Well done . I don't know about you but there's nothing like watching a knife review and the person doing the review does the crapiest feathers on earth . Great vid bro . God bless . Lee
There's nothing worse, Gideon's tactical makes the worst feather sticks I've ever seen, none of the big channels can make a decent feather stick, to busy pissing about with how they look and camera angles!
I have a standard Companion in stainless, and I found the steel to be fairly soft as well. It will take a good edge, but it will roll when things get tough. Consequently, I prefer the carbon version. I like the little 510 as well. They're both good little workhorses. I always enjoy your insights.
Thank you, if I had to choose between the the stainless and carbon the carbon wins hands down, I actually prefer the older companion with the smaller handle.
@@sopwithcamelus I think so, same shape but smaller with the chequered rubber section in the handle. I did a refurbishment video on two of them about 6 weeks ago.
I like Mora knives, but I'm not a fan of their sheaths. I put a custom leather dangler with a fire steel loop on my Black and my Garberg, and put my Kansbol in the leather sheath that came with my Garberg. Their sheaths are serviceable and secure, just not my style. I've found the factory grind on most knives sub par to say the least. I think they overheat the edge while grinding it or something,. Whether that's the reason or not, they always seem to hold up better after I've put a fresh edge or two on them.
It's sad that Moras get neglected and criticized. The less costly ones, few people are willing to put money into for a decent sheath. Others howl how expensive the Garberg is. You could spend much more on many knives, and do far worse than any Mora. Many in fact do. For the money, definitely some of the best knives out there.
Hi Rob, Quick question: I notice in other videos many guys make feathersticks that are much coarser, and would be useful as kindling but not tinder, as I don't think they'd take a spark, at least not easily. Is there room for both kinds in bushcrafting? Or do the purists insist on the very fine curls like you do so well? That batoning caused me pain and anguish! ;-)
Use both , I often refer to thick ones as kindling feather sticks, you only need one super fine one for ignition, igniter stick as I call it. I just happen to make fine ish ones naturally, quite a lot of other folks make thick ones because their techniques lend themselves to thick ones.
Good video, Rob. I've been watching your revised stuff and as always been quite impressed with your skills. Especially feather stick making. I cannot do it like you do holding a stick freehandlike to save my life. However it pains me a great deal when I watch you trying to split wood with that GB SFA. No problems with your axemanship there but that damn axe! I bought into the hype and got me a Scandinavian FA 3years ago. It was not very food at chopping but I could live with that. Seriously as a bushcrafter/camper what are the chances that you cut down a tree more than a foot in diameter? For us, at least for me, main task of an axe is to split wood which GB SFA fails so miserably. Where I live we use hardwood for fire most of time. Try split a 6 inch round of oak with that. It sticks badly. If you hit with all your might, it is an open invitation for overstrike. Found out later Small Forest Axe and Scandinavian Forest Axe are limbing axes. For me it is too narrowly a focused tool for the money you pay. General purpose axe for me is the Fiskars everybody just loves to hate. Too long of rant I did again, sorry about that. Enjoying your video, Rob.
Funny that you bring this up now. After the splitting nightmare I've rethought the axe, I really rate the wetterlings Hudson bay axe but I like a big axe (penis extender, I also have a truck!). Next current video I'll be using an old Swedish army axe, what s difference. I've done a deal with a Swedish guy that works for wetterlings/Gransfors and he's sending me a wetterlings Forrest axe, heavier head , thicker profile and a good length for my taste. Keep watching, I like a challenge by the way, if I need it the maul is in the truck 5 mins walk away!
Can you give some approximate numbers of what you mean by “steep” and “shallow” grinds on these Moras? Does a “steep” grind subtend a smaller angle than a “shallow” one?
Hi Rob,great videos👍👍,, I watched the 1 today in ur shed making the knife from a blank for a customer,,I’d love to have exactly the same but don’t think my wallet would go that far🙈🙈,, anyway I’m really interested in the mora companion heavy duty stainless,, I do a fair bit of feather sticks and battening,,do you recommend the knife??
@@RobEvansWoodsman thanks Rob,,can you tell me why you would go carbon and not stainless,and also best way to look after carbon blades concerning rust!!
@@andyday4724 the grind on my carbon one is steeper therefore stronger. Clean the blade after use and a little bit of oil when you store it. Easy peasy!
Nice job on the reprofile, and thats a great looking sheath. To bad your across the drink cuz I make kydex sheaths lol, oh and by the way no more than the tip or she'll fall in love hahaha. Another great video.
Follow me on Instagram @robevs73 For updates and sales, I don't make many and I have a few orders to get through in the next few weeks. You can send me a message on there. I may have a Mors Kochanski tribute knife available now if you are interested. Waiting for a payment if it falls through it'll be up for grabs.
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i HAVE ALWAYS HAD A PREJUDICE AGAINST MORAS BASED MOSTLY ON APPEARANCE AND MY PREJUDICE THAT THEY WERE CHEAP AND FLIMSY YOUR VIDEOS HAVE CHANGED THAT
Mora knifes are in my opinion the best knives for the money. Good review and ideas for modifications.
A quick strop will tell my old eyes if a micro roll came on my new knife. I do have to sharpen my stainless a bit more often. Sandy bottom land makes it hard to tell tho.
Those are some mighty fine feather sticks sir.
Thank you my friend.👍
For batoning at least 2 inches of the blade should be freely out of the wood to get baton. So for mora companion a 2 inches diameter wood is more or less the biggest it should take.
Apologies Rob for starting off with a negative comment. What I should have said was, what a great resource your videos are turning out to be. Practical, knowledgeable and informative. A real treasure trove of stuff from someone who knows what he is talking about. Diolch yn fawr!
It did seem a little abrupt.
But it's not a problem.
I hope you stick around.
Quality as always Rob, keep up the good work 👍
At last!!! Someone who actually knows how to feather stick correctly. Well done . I don't know about you but there's nothing like watching a knife review and the person doing the review does the crapiest feathers on earth . Great vid bro . God bless . Lee
There's nothing worse, Gideon's tactical makes the worst feather sticks I've ever seen, none of the big channels can make a decent feather stick, to busy pissing about with how they look and camera angles!
Brilliant input thanks Rob
Thanks mate
I have a standard Companion in stainless, and I found the steel to be fairly soft as well. It will take a good edge, but it will roll when things get tough. Consequently, I prefer the carbon version. I like the little 510 as well. They're both good little workhorses. I always enjoy your insights.
Thank you, if I had to choose between the the stainless and carbon the carbon wins hands down, I actually prefer the older companion with the smaller handle.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Is that the one they call the Clipper these days? I prefer the checkered handle.
@@sopwithcamelus I think so, same shape but smaller with the chequered rubber section in the handle.
I did a refurbishment video on two of them about 6 weeks ago.
Beautiful sheath. I'm sure it smells as good as it looks. One can't help but snuffle them, lol.
Hey Rob , very interesting video ...
grtz Janneman
I like Mora knives, but I'm not a fan of their sheaths. I put a custom leather dangler with a fire steel loop on my Black and my Garberg, and put my Kansbol in the leather sheath that came with my Garberg. Their sheaths are serviceable and secure, just not my style.
I've found the factory grind on most knives sub par to say the least. I think they overheat the edge while grinding it or something,. Whether that's the reason or not, they always seem to hold up better after I've put a fresh edge or two on them.
Thanks.
It's sad that Moras get neglected and criticized. The less costly ones, few people are willing to put money into for a decent sheath. Others howl how expensive the Garberg is. You could spend much more on many knives, and do far worse than any Mora. Many in fact do. For the money, definitely some of the best knives out there.
Great knifes mora , only one i own now is an eldris , good vid. :)
I have a few.
Enjoyed that, liking these re edits. I'm going to email you some thoughts I've had.
Hi Rob,
Quick question: I notice in other videos many guys make feathersticks that are much coarser, and would be useful as kindling but not tinder, as I don't think they'd take a spark, at least not easily. Is there room for both kinds in bushcrafting? Or do the purists insist on the very fine curls like you do so well?
That batoning caused me pain and anguish! ;-)
Use both , I often refer to thick ones as kindling feather sticks, you only need one super fine one for ignition, igniter stick as I call it. I just happen to make fine ish ones naturally, quite a lot of other folks make thick ones because their techniques lend themselves to thick ones.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks, much as I thought.
Good video, Rob.
I've been watching your revised stuff and as always been quite impressed with your skills. Especially feather stick making. I cannot do it like you do holding a stick freehandlike to save my life. However it pains me a great deal when I watch you trying to split wood with that GB SFA. No problems with your axemanship there but that damn axe! I bought into the hype and got me a Scandinavian FA 3years ago. It was not very food at chopping but I could live with that. Seriously as a bushcrafter/camper what are the chances that you cut down a tree more than a foot in diameter? For us, at least for me, main task of an axe is to split wood which GB SFA fails so miserably. Where I live we use hardwood for fire most of time. Try split a 6 inch round of oak with that. It sticks badly. If you hit with all your might, it is an open invitation for overstrike. Found out later Small Forest Axe and Scandinavian Forest Axe are limbing axes. For me it is too narrowly a focused tool for the money you pay. General purpose axe for me is the Fiskars everybody just loves to hate. Too long of rant I did again, sorry about that. Enjoying your video, Rob.
Funny that you bring this up now.
After the splitting nightmare I've rethought the axe, I really rate the wetterlings Hudson bay axe but I like a big axe (penis extender, I also have a truck!). Next current video I'll be using an old Swedish army axe, what s difference.
I've done a deal with a Swedish guy that works for wetterlings/Gransfors and he's sending me a wetterlings Forrest axe, heavier head , thicker profile and a good length for my taste.
Keep watching, I like a challenge by the way, if I need it the maul is in the truck 5 mins walk away!
Can you give some approximate numbers of what you mean by “steep” and “shallow” grinds on these Moras? Does a “steep” grind subtend a smaller angle than a “shallow” one?
Steeper the angle , higher the number.
Fun video brother.. what pot was that? Looked like swedish mess kit..
Thanks for stay healthy
Yes Swedish army with a custom lid.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I love it.. My personal favorite in the woods. I need to make a top like that for mine. Thanks.
Hi Rob,great videos👍👍,, I watched the 1 today in ur shed making the knife from a blank for a customer,,I’d love to have exactly the same but don’t think my wallet would go that far🙈🙈,, anyway I’m really interested in the mora companion heavy duty stainless,, I do a fair bit of feather sticks and battening,,do you recommend the knife??
Yes , definitely but in carbon steel.
I also highly recommend the robust, check out the videos on that.
It's my favourite Mora.
@@RobEvansWoodsman thanks Rob,,can you tell me why you would go carbon and not stainless,and also best way to look after carbon blades concerning rust!!
@@andyday4724 the grind on my carbon one is steeper therefore stronger.
Clean the blade after use and a little bit of oil when you store it.
Easy peasy!
Everyone should own two or seven of these. Good job👍🔪
Agreed. I think I have about 7 Mora's.
Yeah , i at least need one more , prob. a robust :)
Nice job on the reprofile, and thats a great looking sheath. To bad your across the drink cuz I make kydex sheaths lol, oh and by the way no more than the tip or she'll fall in love hahaha. Another great video.
I attempt kydex sheaths, I dislike making them, I have one to do tomorrow morning.
There ya go, watching the same channels as me. If I didn't know better, I'd think ya were stalking me! 😂😂😂
@@timbo4374 hahaha hey good content is good content lol, man he can feather stick can't he lol
@@alphaomegasurvivalsupply6548 yes, he does make one hell of a feather stick for sure, lol.
Really don’t think that knife is made to go through a log that thick…
👍👍👍👍👌✌🙏😊🔥
Rob how to I buy a knife made by you??
Follow me on Instagram @robevs73
For updates and sales, I don't make many and I have a few orders to get through in the next few weeks.
You can send me a message on there.
I may have a Mors Kochanski tribute knife available now if you are interested.
Waiting for a payment if it falls through it'll be up for grabs.
Whats your Instagram?
@robevs73