I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Collin Jerome Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
was there another clutch used ? in 1958 / 59 nebers 1955 wd 45 wouldn't lock in we took off cover looked at it we put it back together he talk with others about it . then week later we open it up again it had a ring / disc with a canffer on outer edge (back) it was threaded in center [a lock to keep it in place] you turned it to thighten and get a new edge on the canffer where it lock in and out on { turned it a little put lock back clutch worked fine again } . I was 12 or 13 back then . thanks George
Good DAY. boy good video. Why has 45 got extra plate,because of power. Is there anyway of telling if clutch is going,if you were buying 1. What type of oil do they run in. I would like possibly 1. I was told that cranks break THANKS
The 45 has more plates due to more power. The only way to tell is by taking the clutch cover off and looking at how thick the shims are and how loose the clutch plates are. I have not come across a clutch that was worn out, most just need to be adjusted. If you pull the hand lever back to engage the clutch it should feel tight. If not it will need some shims taken out. I have never seen or heard of cranks breaking in the "W" series of tractors.
Hi Dennis, I'm happy to find your videos. We have three non running WD"s on the farm. One has been there since it was new and would probably run if it had gas oil and a battery. Are the wear surfaces of the discs in the hand clutch metal or some other material.
kathy taylor yes, but the WD-45 clutch is longer. So you must shorten the studs on the front of the clutch. Make sure you don’t take to much off because you still need to use the studs to mount the clutch. After the studs are shorten it will still be a tight fit and may take a little finesse to get it in. I put one in my WD as well.
1st look at the steering shafts and universal joint for wear and slop. 2nd look in the front gear box to check gears and bearings. If it's bearing wear you may be able to remove shims. If it's gear wear you will need to replace both gears.
There is a set screw with a jam nut down low on the pedestal. Behind it is a key that sets in a keyway. If either the key or the keyway are wore, that can cause front end wobble too. Sloppy wheel bearings can add to wobble also.
Dennis I'm in the process of trying to replace the seal in the transmission of a wd I've got the tractor split apart at the bellhousing in the hydraulic Reservoir I need to pull the input shaft I was told that I need to remove the cover to the hand clutch housing loosen the four bolts on the outside of the hand clutch and that the shaft should pull out. I loosen the bolts or nuts rather and can't seem to get the shaft to pull out what position does the hand clutch need to be in to remove or is there a special trick? Thanks in advance
I'm replacing the seal that separates the hand clutch from the hydraulic resivoir. I have the tractor split at the bell housing and hydraulic res. I'm told if I loosen the 4 bolts on the hand clutch that the I'm out shaft will pull out. is that correct?
Alright now we are on the same page. The hand clutch needs to be removed. After clutch removal look inside the gear which the hand clutch was bolted to. You should find a snap ring that holds the gear onto the shaft. Remove the snap ring and slide the gear off. Now the only things holding the shaft in place are the bearings.
The spring washer that you talke of is what thay call a belleville washer. i think you have great video i was rased on a A\C farm keep them coming
Yes the Belleville washer.
Thanks for doing this video. Don't look very complicated. Thanks again
Great video Dennis, thanks for posting.
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Gordon Richard instablaster =)
@Collin Jerome Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Collin Jerome It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Gordon Richard happy to help =)
was there another clutch used ? in 1958 / 59 nebers 1955 wd 45 wouldn't lock in we took off cover looked at it we put it back together he talk with others about it . then week later we open it up again it had a ring / disc with a canffer on outer edge (back) it was threaded in center [a lock to keep it in place] you turned it to thighten and get a new edge on the canffer where it lock in and out on { turned it a little put lock back clutch worked fine again } . I was 12 or 13 back then . thanks George
To my knowledge Allis used the same design all the WD & WD45's. They just add a disc for the WD45.
Good DAY. boy good video. Why has 45 got extra plate,because of power. Is there anyway of telling if clutch is going,if you were buying 1. What type of oil do they run in. I would like possibly 1. I was told that cranks break THANKS
The 45 has more plates due to more power. The only way to tell is by taking the clutch cover off and looking at how thick the shims are and how loose the clutch plates are. I have not come across a clutch that was worn out, most just need to be adjusted. If you pull the hand lever back to engage the clutch it should feel tight. If not it will need some shims taken out. I have never seen or heard of cranks breaking in the "W" series of tractors.
Thanks. Can you do a video on traction booster.
Hi Dennis,
I'm happy to find your videos. We have three non running WD"s on the farm. One has been there since it was new and would probably run if it had gas oil and a battery.
Are the wear surfaces of the discs in the hand clutch metal or some other material.
Yes they are metal and can not be reworked. If the disc still have grooves then the disc is still useable.
Dennis,
Thanks. You have a great site and your explanation of the clutch was impressive.
will a wd 45 hand clutch assembly fit in a wd @@The1952caallis
kathy taylor yes, but the WD-45 clutch is longer. So you must shorten the studs on the front of the clutch. Make sure you don’t take to much off because you still need to use the studs to mount the clutch. After the studs are shorten it will still be a tight fit and may take a little finesse to get it in. I put one in my WD as well.
Hi just watch yours video on 45 clutch i n joy it.my question is have u ever work on a trycle frot n were it was shakeing
1st look at the steering shafts and universal joint for wear and slop. 2nd look in the front gear box to check gears and bearings. If it's bearing wear you may be able to remove shims. If it's gear wear you will need to replace both gears.
There is a set screw with a jam nut down low on the pedestal. Behind it is a key that sets in a keyway. If either the key or the keyway are wore, that can cause front end wobble too. Sloppy wheel bearings can add to wobble also.
Dennis I'm in the process of trying to replace the seal in the transmission of a wd I've got the tractor split apart at the bellhousing in the hydraulic Reservoir I need to pull the input shaft I was told that I need to remove the cover to the hand clutch housing loosen the four bolts on the outside of the hand clutch and that the shaft should pull out. I loosen the bolts or nuts rather and can't seem to get the shaft to pull out what position does the hand clutch need to be in to remove or is there a special trick? Thanks in advance
I'll need a little more info Matt. What seal are you replacing and what shaft are you removing?
I'm replacing the seal that separates the hand clutch from the hydraulic resivoir. I have the tractor split at the bell housing and hydraulic res. I'm told if I loosen the 4 bolts on the hand clutch that the I'm out shaft will pull out. is that correct?
Alright now we are on the same page.
The hand clutch needs to be removed. After clutch removal look inside the gear which the hand clutch was bolted to. You should find a snap ring that holds the gear onto the shaft. Remove the snap ring and slide the gear off. Now the only things holding the shaft in place are the bearings.
can you get me an ED40 hand clutch rebuild , and what is the three large steel balls for , at the outer side of the clutch
I have no clue what type of clutch Allis used in the ED40. Could you send me a few pictures?