DIY Push Pull Ferrite Bass Planar magnetic speaker - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Making a push pull version... witch is a dumb and confusing name but thats how people know these... anyhow something i want to compare to the dual membrane drivers.. see how much we gain. in this part its just building, up to gluing the magnets... since the glue did not arrive yet.
I love the DIY part of the audio community! Keep it up man!
I like the Ball and Pocket joints you used. I made some chairs and tables with that type of join. It looks slick in hardwood.
thanks, they work rather well, i was just thinking puzzles :) it makes me able to make a much bigger frame then i normally could on the size of machine i use. (often based on the wood size i have) besides that its really, nice in efficiency. i can make 2 of those frames while wasting as much wood as one without the joints :)
Even cheap bits usually do exactly what they say, so it's probably your spindle/collar runout that increases the cut width :) Really cool idea with the keyhole fitment for doing the frames in smaller straight parts!! :D Will copy :)
I would add some Teflon or PE tape to the front of the tensioning frame to make the foil stretch more uniform. Might help with foils tearing? And BTW you can re-foil a frame once even if the foil glue is hard, Just cut away the old foil and use the other side :)
And, as I've said before, you can add more of a cardioid pattern to a bass panel by adding damping on the back side. Mounting 95mm rockwool tight up against the rear plate will increase your in-room efficiency from mid-bass up to low mids. In deeper bass it would change nothing (except a very slight Q decrease from the flow resistance)
Great work, interested in seeing the results!
ah nice well i will add damping !! but on the magnets. the closer it is to the foil the better. Good idea about the teflon !! since yes clearly the foil did not want to stretch at this particulary spot as well as the rest. maybe to much resistance !! as you said ! i thought about using both sided of the frame .... if i need to but it bothers me i probably cant remove the old glue, unlike 3M 30NF. about the cut width yes this can be so many things, my spindle been slightly out of tram, or indeed runout or the bit. who knows :) in any case we could compensate for it if we wanted
Love the process.
:) nice, im glad people like the building stuff (experiment) parts ! since thats the most fun to share.
you can use a drumdial tension gauge for some consistency (or measure the acoustic resonant frequency, of course) genius idea to use air.. brilliant!
well i got one but drums are much more tensioned and thicker foil :( the idea might work but i have to tweak it. else it just might poke a hole :)
I learn so much from your videos. They're amazing.
Lekker bezig Joppe! Fijn dat het droog is geweest in Den Haag.
dat is tenminste iets :) lekker weer
Try putting small treaded rod across the center to push outward
you mean on the frame ? well i thought about making a tool to tension it afterwards before i screw down the 2 plates of steel together :)
@@joppepeelen yes screw it together loosely, then expand the rod to stretch, then tighten everything?
@@jasonkilo8167 thats an idea , but i rather not have a rod running in between, problem is there will be magnets , and pushing is harder with a small rod, then pulling. so if i can fix it with pulling would be nicer i think.. if i can...
Yeah pushing is harder, but I'm guessing you won't need alot of pressure. And I would use brass rod and nuts.
Amazing! 😊❤🎉
This sheet metal WILL bend outwards. You can use external wood clamps to keep it in shape. Since you are making a bass panel you can use thicker mylar with no problem. Waiting for the outcome...
well i want to see how much it bends, since that might be my ticket, to decrease xmax. and let it bend :) in the middle to give it more xmax where its needed. only downside i used 2mm thick steel here and my plan was using 1.5mm. that will bend more. but still is enough to do what it supposed to do magnetic wise. anyhow i added a screw hole in the middle onf the short sides of the panel so i can make it bend less or more. and play around with it
also, while Fs remains same, the low freq outputgain will be lower, +_ 3/6 db?
since qts lowers, so you get less bass/mid ;) it becomes more and more a mid. anyway, nice vid
well yeah this might be the case that the 6dB theory will not add up as much down low :( but we will see if its worth the effort ! in any case i will make it play lows :) xmax is there to do so
nice!
the Re will be lower then with 0db magnet (opose to +6db-magnetassembly) probl around Re -1ohm/-3ohm
i am not sure what you mean , could you explain more ?
@@joppepeelen when i add more magnets to my woofer the qts goes down and the re goes down. Total results in db gain i guess
can u drill holes through the magnets and bolt them to the screen? this would let you easily and quickly experiment w placement, reuse the magnets, etc.
you cant drill ferrite :( well you can but not with ease. no normal drill will. since it is ceramic. one of the hardest materials :( makes cleaning them off after reclaiming them after a test is easy :) since i hardly grind away the magnet... but i remove the glue etc easy
Yes, in ferrite magnets. Be careful with torque though, they're brittle. Never do it in Neo magnets, they really need their protective coating intact. They go bad (can loose 50-80% field strength) over just a few years.
@@AJBtheSuede erm no :) i wish you luck drilling in ferrites :) without splitting them and screw up the drill bit, as for neos if you drill.. they are screwed instantly :) i mean no coating in the hole so they rott :( im sure some sort of diamond bit will work on the ferrites. but i wonder how many you can drill :) not worth the effort i think :(
@@AJBtheSuede thats very interesting, did not realize there was a coating layer
@@joppepeelen No luck needed, I've done it many times. It's actually a lot easier to drill/machine than most tool steels or pre-hardened steels. You just need a good drill press, good tools and a steady workholding. Waving a crappy hardware store drill bit at them with a handheld is totally meaningless.
Is that watch you are wearing a CASIO CFX400? Scientific.. I have restored my Magnaplanars speakers .And there is people that has changed the fame material from MDF to wood ,,all seem to think that it sounds better ..Better bass
I think its the DBC611-1VT illumninator
Mdf is soundkiller but this foil is so lownin weight compared to realwood that i dont thnk it matters a lot. Maybe the last 5% yes. I would go with HDF not mdf. Or aluminium thick profile. But these speakers are testsetups. soo ..
@@be2the4outsound killer would be good.
Did you build your cnc ?
yes i did. this machine is based on second hand materials mostly (X rails, and ballscrew (THK) . Z axis THK second hand) y axis ballscrew no clue what brand but from a philips machine used in production so i guess good brand. the Y rails, is a cheap one but works fine since it fits the alu profile , the rest of the alu components i machines with the older machine that used half of these components but the rest was MDF wood and a DIY Y linear rails with skate bearings. miracle that worked out
I just ordered some materials to make it longer.... and i have a few videos about my new bigger machine... witch can take a year... since it might not fit in my shed :( i have a tendency to buy and model before actually using materials .. or check if it really fits.... it does fit... but its going to be hard to put it together in this small space haha , i did not think of that
@@joppepeelen Nice. It looks solid.
@@soniclab-cnc well it looks more solid then it is :) i thought a C beam with a wall thickness of 10mm would be sturdy. it works fine for wood etc.. but the biggest wobble comes from that X axis :( it can twist :( most noticeable with cutting aluminium
@@joppepeelen Well there is always room for improvement. lol. Once you dig into a solid chunk of aluminum you're bound to find the limits of the machine. I made my first two machines but have since upgraded to two AVID machines. I learned quite a lot from the design and build process but the AVID are stiffer machines.
@@soniclab-cnc oh i never heard of them , problem as usual is money and size. i almost bought a second hand DATRON. great machine with tool changer etc. but it still would not let me make the speakers i want to make :) and most other machines are to big for my shed.
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