Welcome Back David! I really hope this is the start of you posting (semi) regularly again. I miss all of your neat little projects. Also I think this is a brilliant mod. It's kind of steampunk but also retro.
The 555 internals are basically 2 op-amps with one input of each tied to the midpoints of a 3 resistor ladder/voltage divider, giving them ⅓ and ⅔ of the supply voltage respectively. The outputs of the op-amps go to the inputs if an SR-latch, output of the latch is buffered for better current handling. Using the 555 then comes down to controlling when/how the other inputs of the op-amps get to above/below ⅓ and ⅔ Vcc in order to flip the op-amp output / change the inputs of the SR-latch. There's also an input to force a reset of the latch independent of the state of the op-amps.
I like that you didn't use the attiny. Code makes my head hurt. I wouldn't know where to start. Using a 555 and a decade counter is easy and straight forward. You just built it and it works. No messing about with code.
The balance scales brought on some nostalgia, I used the identical model several times a day when I started out as a lab technician fifty years ago. I'm quite envious that you have one in excellent condition.
I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out, but it actually looks fantastic! Congrats on getting back ON the wagon :) I look forward to seeing what you do next - once you recover from this one ;)
Nice set of scales. used to use a pair like that for measuring out glue and hardener when we used to glue microphone transformers to the PCB's. the transformers were in mu-metal cans, glue had a very restrictive mix ratio. too little hardener and it would not set, too much and it went rock hard before you could use it. the weights were like little bits of tin foil and you had to close the front or a draft would bugger your reading. bringing back memories from the late 70's nice to see your keeping it safe. looks good too.
Ooh they're very cool actually, bit like the resurgeance of EL wire! Hope at peak brightness they don't burn out too fast, feels hard to imagine they'd perform well thermally whilst outputting enough light to blow-out the visibility of individual LEDs? 🤔 interesting either way!
Welcome back, Dave! How about another gofundme for the camera you wanted? I still got the $53 saved up :) You let my intrusive thoughts win with this one - this was something I wanted to try for years, but never got around to it.
about bad crocodile cables: check if yours are magnetic - not the clips but the cables themselves. I have several batches of these with copper-colored, magnetic wires.
@@DavidWatts I found it out by accident in a lab with my students, when suddenly the cable attached itself to a neodymium magnet... I was quite surprised
Nice work. If you took a binary counter like CD4060 and use a resistor ladder, you could avoid diodes and have 4 steps with 2 resistors, 8 steps with 3 resistors fitted or up to 16384 steps (I know it's crazy) when 14 resistors used (it's basically a DAC)
Thank you I needed it for the mouth of the robot, please tell me what do I need for series of two strips, how to buy them.😊 please so I can control on and off when L.E.D when connect to the speaker Can I buy your chips online or how much are you willing to selling it. Please can I use for the project please. Many thanks
Not lost the knack of building crap I see ! Nice. Edit:- you have TTP 233 on the silk but fitted a TTP223, I have used these boards a lot myself and don't know the difference ! do you ? Very neat project but I imagined the lighting behind the scales or above to highlight them but great result either way !
A video by a Watts. You've beat me :) No serious, great to see a video by you. A fan from day one and still am! Question, are there longer ones? Can you put them in series without a bit gap?
I assume you could put them in series, not sure about different colours in series thought, they would have a different forward voltage, not sure what effect that would have. The are all rated as 3v but from a little testing that isn't true.
@@DavidWatts I would stick to one colour so that is fine. Another thing I found on Ali, is similar as and LED strip. But, 4mm wide and 1,5mm high. And cheap! 5m blue €16,45 I expected way more because it it also very flexible. I'll order some and make a video.
That was great. Wonderful to see you back not covered in plaster dust.
Great to see you back. I bought a load of those LED filaments a couple of years ago, can't remember why, but you have given me an idea...
Ohhhh he's back.... back again... guess who's back...!!! 🎉
Isn't your last video over 4 years ago Steve? :P
@@TheRealBobHickman haha at least!!!! It's a disgrace! 🤣
@@ChunkySteveo Yeah Steve when was your last one ;-) (shamefully hiding my last video date 🤣)
@@Chickey 🤣🤣
Nice to see you again David, and doing proper nerdy things too. This made my day. Thank you so much. The finished product looks cool too. Take care.
I've always enjoyed playing with the pairing of a 555 and 4017, but this is a combination that I've never encountered.
What a cool implementation.
david! i had missed your videos. fantastic journey through this project. i've used the LED noodles a couple of times too and they're so fun.
You’re back with an electronics project. Awesome! It must be 3 years since I last saw you using a breadboard. And, a 555 timer as well. Bonus! 🤓
Has it really been that long?! Well hopefully I'll keep it up.
Great to see you getting stuff out again 🙂
Its been a while, but good to see you back. Definately want to encourage you back into more electronic experiences
Welcome Back David! I really hope this is the start of you posting (semi) regularly again. I miss all of your neat little projects. Also I think this is a brilliant mod. It's kind of steampunk but also retro.
The 555 internals are basically 2 op-amps with one input of each tied to the midpoints of a 3 resistor ladder/voltage divider, giving them ⅓ and ⅔ of the supply voltage respectively.
The outputs of the op-amps go to the inputs if an SR-latch, output of the latch is buffered for better current handling.
Using the 555 then comes down to controlling when/how the other inputs of the op-amps get to above/below ⅓ and ⅔ Vcc in order to flip the op-amp output / change the inputs of the SR-latch.
There's also an input to force a reset of the latch independent of the state of the op-amps.
I like that you didn't use the attiny. Code makes my head hurt. I wouldn't know where to start. Using a 555 and a decade counter is easy and straight forward. You just built it and it works. No messing about with code.
The balance scales brought on some nostalgia, I used the identical model several times a day when I started out as a lab technician fifty years ago. I'm quite envious that you have one in excellent condition.
needs more bodge wires :) Welcome back!
You're back!! :D Nice project video, m8.
I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out, but it actually looks fantastic!
Congrats on getting back ON the wagon :) I look forward to seeing what you do next - once you recover from this one ;)
Good to see you back mate. Hope the house is all sorted now!
As sorted as it is going to be for a year, I ran out of money 🤣 so it is back to electronics
@@DavidWattsUsually that statement is reversed for this hobby - ran out of money, so no more electronics
Nice set of scales. used to use a pair like that for measuring out glue and hardener when we used to glue microphone transformers to the PCB's. the transformers were in mu-metal cans, glue had a very restrictive mix ratio. too little hardener and it would not set, too much and it went rock hard before you could use it. the weights were like little bits of tin foil and you had to close the front or a draft would bugger your reading. bringing back memories from the late 70's nice to see your keeping it safe. looks good too.
Great to see a new video!
Cool project 👍👍
Ooh they're very cool actually, bit like the resurgeance of EL wire! Hope at peak brightness they don't burn out too fast, feels hard to imagine they'd perform well thermally whilst outputting enough light to blow-out the visibility of individual LEDs? 🤔 interesting either way!
Welcome back, Dave! How about another gofundme for the camera you wanted? I still got the $53 saved up :)
You let my intrusive thoughts win with this one - this was something I wanted to try for years, but never got around to it.
about bad crocodile cables: check if yours are magnetic - not the clips but the cables themselves. I have several batches of these with copper-colored, magnetic wires.
Weird, a quick test of 4 and 2 of them are very attracted to a magnet. I assume they must be copper coated steel.
Maybe I should just buy some nice wire and rebuild them, I only need red and black tbh
@@DavidWatts at least it's not copper-clad aluminum...
@@DavidWatts I found it out by accident in a lab with my students, when suddenly the cable attached itself to a neodymium magnet... I was quite surprised
Nice work. If you took a binary counter like CD4060 and use a resistor ladder, you could avoid diodes and have 4 steps with 2 resistors, 8 steps with 3 resistors fitted or up to 16384 steps (I know it's crazy) when 14 resistors used (it's basically a DAC)
That's a lot of button presses to get to my idea brightness level of 1337 ;)
Thank you I needed it for the mouth of the robot, please tell me what do I need for series of two strips, how to buy them.😊 please so I can control on and off when L.E.D when connect to the speaker
Can I buy your chips online or how much are you willing to selling it. Please can I use for the project please. Many thanks
Welcome back.
I might have missed it. but why didn't you stick with the attiny85?
I just found it a more interesting challenge to do it without a microcontroller. I like the old 4000 series logic chips.
0:03 nope. jan 22 was a few months ago, you can't persuade me otherwise.
🤣
They are really nice. :). Was wondering where you've been? :)
Not lost the knack of building crap I see ! Nice. Edit:- you have TTP 233 on the silk but fitted a TTP223, I have used these boards a lot myself and don't know the difference ! do you ? Very neat project but I imagined the lighting behind the scales or above to highlight them but great result either way !
I am sure my fat fingers knew what to type but were fighting against me, definitely the 223 ;) Crap is basically my brand.
@@DavidWatts Lol ! both numbers are for the touch switch !
same pinout?
@@DavidWatts Wish I hadn't looked but yeah 6 pins same function ! Its late so my head hurts but TTP223 BA6 is the same as TTP233BA6 lol
🤣 I doubt I will ever really know what version I got from Aliexpress tbh
A video by a Watts. You've beat me :) No serious, great to see a video by you. A fan from day one and still am! Question, are there longer ones? Can you put them in series without a bit gap?
I assume you could put them in series, not sure about different colours in series thought, they would have a different forward voltage, not sure what effect that would have. The are all rated as 3v but from a little testing that isn't true.
@@DavidWatts I would stick to one colour so that is fine. Another thing I found on Ali, is similar as and LED strip. But, 4mm wide and 1,5mm high. And cheap! 5m blue €16,45 I expected way more because it it also very flexible. I'll order some and make a video.
WHAT! Suddenly back to an electronics channel. Is the home improvement intermission over? Lol
That's over now mate, until I buy another wreck but maybe I'll make a new channel for that
@@DavidWattsI'm going through this now. No time to dabble in electronics, apart from rewiring the doorbell and replacing dimmer switches.
Thoughts and prayers
Nothing beats the glow of VFDs or true neon!!! You succesfully ruined the natural beauty of a truly handcrafted piece of art!
You are right, plus the addition of electricity and an indoor toilet is an abomination in my 130 year of house. I'll rip it all out asap.
Don't the lights get in the way a bit when you're weighing stuff? jk
Yeah a nerd video!