Nice video. I have done many of these and 99% of the time the connector dry joints will fix a multitude of vehicle issues from a no start to random warning lights when running. Sometimes a gentle tap on the top of the crash pad will get you going until the next cold start. The cluster is not only part of the immobiliser but also the CAN gateway on the car. By far the hardest part will be getting the needle pointers back in the correct place and height. A little dexterity and using a piece of soft tac tape on the front applique with a line to where they point when fully towards zero reading will help. They generally are a fraction below the zero mark when not powered. For clusters with the big LCD display careful with the ribbon cable and display holding clip. Same cluster issues occur on the C-MAx and Kuga of similar age.
Nice video.
I have done many of these and 99% of the time the connector dry joints will fix a multitude of vehicle issues from a no start to random warning lights when running. Sometimes a gentle tap on the top of the crash pad will get you going until the next cold start. The cluster is not only part of the immobiliser but also the CAN gateway on the car. By far the hardest part will be getting the needle pointers back in the correct place and height. A little dexterity and using a piece of soft tac tape on the front applique with a line to where they point when fully towards zero reading will help. They generally are a fraction below the zero mark when not powered. For clusters with the big LCD display careful with the ribbon cable and display holding clip. Same cluster issues occur on the C-MAx and Kuga of similar age.
hi Alex what type of microscope are you using ?any place where I can buy?
i have the same problem on my ford fiesta 2010.
Sorry! your store is dead?
R5F72530ZFPU problem deta