This is only my opinion, but I think this channel is among the very best C&B / BP channels on YT. Thank you for the content. Some thoughts : some of the guns I bought came dirty out of the box. Both were proofed in Gardone, one 1858 Uberti and one 1860 Pietta. The 1858's barrel was really dirty with a touch of rust (light surface rusting, no damage); Pietta's 1860 internals and barrel were filthy but no rust. Last gun I got is a steel frame .36 7 1/2 inch barrel 1851 from Pietta : it came clean as a whistle. First thing I do now upon unboxing is inspect the gun and clean it if needed. On a side note, that 1851 I got is truly an excellent gun and a shooter out of the box. Shoots better than I will ever do myself.
I'm in the habit of checking the barrel also. Had one for 4 years before checking, and there are slight pit marks now after cleaning. Doesn't affect accuracy it seems, but sure isn't nice and shinny to look at. O.R.
Thanks Old Ranger! I have the Army and Navy and have been wanting a Sheriffs model for a long while. So this video is perfect! Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I bought the 4 7/8" barrel version of this one also a Pietta. I thought that barrel length made for a better looking revolver. I also have the standard 7.5" and the 12" barrel versions as well.
That’s what I am shooting in cowboy action in frontiersman and other than different nipples and opening rear hammer sights they are amazing and have held up to match shooting great, another great video
Not bad for shooting a new pistol right out of the box without cleaning it first! Wonder what it does with conicals and other powders! I first completely clean all oil off the outside of the new pistol a nod inspect it and note anything not right. Then completely disassemble it, checking all parts and the areas they run in after a complete clean. Remove all machine Mark's where needed and polish all parts where they move against other parts and or frame. Thin oil all parts and reassemble the pistol. This way sight in and best load and projectile is faster to find. For me I find the best load combinations with ball or conical and powder and charge all in the same outing. I always try to take a ball and a conical and at least three different powders and two or three different cap types. Usually find the best load for the pistol in one outing. Then the next outing is just sight adjustments. Making notes on accuracy leads and hunting or power loads. The paper or card I put this info on stays with the firearm for future use by me or someone else if I sell it.
Great advice. Keeping a record with the gun is the way to go. A person thinks they will remember, but not real likely. Target shot, or a copy of one is something to also keep in the box. Appreciate comment and advice. O.R.
These old smoke wagons are still relevant ! Accuracy is superb. Reliability is ok (kept one loaded fro 2yrs and 6/6 chambers fired at first try), as long as you don't make foolish mistakes and power is respectable at 390 ft-lbs at the muzzle with moderately weak Schuetzen powder. I think they can be as powerful as standard pressure .357 magnum with proper powder selection (I'm thinking of FFFFg Swiss). Will need to check that out though. @edit Tested ! 220 gr Kaido slug 30 gr fine FFFFg Swiss 1# 953 2# 939 3# 968 4# 949 5# 971 6# 964 avg: 957 fps KE: 447 ft-lbs. for comparison, low end .357 magnum after wikipedia: 180 gr (12 g) JHP Federal 1,080 ft/s (330 m/s) 466 ft⋅lbf (632 J) So my 1858 fell ~20 ft-lbs short of .357. I could stuff about 4-5 more grains of powder under the Kaido slug but didn't want to push my luck too hard.
@@beargillium2369 I don't think you can blow up a Pietta 1858 remington unless you use smokeless or leave air gap. Ths guy loaded a full chamber of FFFFg swiss and was fine. watch?v=-n5jddoNDFk
@@beargillium2369 In the period, they were using fine HAZARD powder which granulation was equivalent to modern FFFFg and metallurgy was in its infancy. Why would using a finer grain black powder in a black powder weapon be synonymous to getting a Darwin award?
@@MikeJLee-ye6mz because "in the day" a fair amount of guns did in fact explode... I understand that modern metallurgy is much better, but you have to realize that piettas and the like aren't exactly military grade equipment. They're rated for what they're rated for and to push that is to tempt fate. Couple grains over the recommended charge? Sure, you're probably safe. But moving to a finer powder simply sounds like a bad idea, to me. You do whatever you want. Look right down the barrel with your finger on the trigger for all I care, you clearly have no respect for safety or wisdom so I wish you the best of luck. You'll need it.
I have found that the Hickory wedges that come with new axe handles are great for removing barrel wedges and setting caps... you can split em and make like three nice tools about 3/4" wide and still have enough left to... well.. use as a wedge for the axe handle
Hello ranger, just had a quick question for you. Im thinking of buying one of the pietta 1851 avenging angel snubnose 44's. But i like the looks of the fluted cylinder on the 1860 snubnose. Will the cylinder from a pietta 1860 fit and function on a pietta 1851 frame ? Love your videos.Thanks for any help !
If the 51 frame is for the 44 caliber, then I (believe) so, (notice the word believe), because I just did that taking my 44 1860 cylinder (2010) into a brass 44 1851 (2022) model. However, I have a fluted 44 cylinder from a 1851 (2001) that doesn’t do well in the same brass 44 because the cylinder stops (notches) are too tight for the new bolt used in the 2022 model. Suppose something to do with their tooling. If I had to bet, I’d go with yes, if they are around similar production times, but I’ve been wrong before. So, can’t give a definite yes, hope this helps. O.R.
Once again, I see that you still have a supply of Black MZ. Seems to work well in a variety of revolvers you've shot. Even shot nice groups with the shorter barrel.
Right, I got a good amount when it was being sold for ten bucks. It seems to do as well as true black; I would say no better. Probably some folks feel that it is a "cheap" shot to use it, but it's more a matter of economy. I can get the guns to shoot as well, or possibly better with the "real" stuff. I shoot a lot, and I'm starting to run low on FFF. O.R.
What a sweet old fashioned carry pistol. This style of pistol was used by the police department in Miami and okeechobee back in the ole Florida crackers and Seminole railroad days .
It looks like pietta has really improved their cap and ball repros since how poor their quality was in the early and mid 20 teens. I had a couple of their 1851 navy repros and 1858 police model .36 repros and the first 1851 that I bought in 2011 was great but the second one I bought in 2013 was horrible. Same story with the 1858 I bought in 2012 and 2014
I have the exact same revolver, but need some advice: What is the use of the screw above the barrel wedge? I used to remove it every time I removed the barrel, and eventually lost it. After 6 years of regular use, the wedge stays firmly in place without it.
I got the same one, had the hand spring break before it was shot. But they sent out a replacement spring without question through Taylor's I'm currently waiting for my kiss konverter to show up. I love these old replicas.
All groups won't be like that, but it does show that these guns have potential, and sometimes a fun part is the challenge to get them doing it right. O.R.
Excellent content O.R. My 1851 navy chambered in .44 is honestly one of the best shooters I have. It's the 7.5 inch barrel but I'm looking to get a 12 inch barrel to hunt with.
@@oldranger3044I support EMF 100 percent, EMF have never done me wrong either. I have quite a few Piettas and they are real shooters!I know VTI gun parts gets them in regularly as well. Thanks for putting out new content brother, there's not many of us into these old sixguns anymore so I'm happy to see a new video from you. we must pass this art down to the younger guys... May the LORD bless you and keep you
I have the 12" version of this and the Remington. If I recall correctly the 1851 has a slow 1:30" twist even in the 12" barrel while the Remington has a 1:16" twist. The Remington will handle any round ball or conical you can get in the cylinder and has adjustable sights making it a far better choice for hunting.
Mines a Brass, the first cap and ball I owned, I use 20 grains I know anemic but helps keep the brass around a lil bit. I might "Forced" to get the .44 in steel. I will admit to the 7 inch barrel be better just for the rammer is easier.
Yes, longer loading lever makes life in the loading area easier. Slixprings makes an extension for easier loading called slix hand that sells for about $20. The 20 grain load is all you need for basic fun and shooting, and you are correct; it is easier on the gun for target and plinking. O.R.
I'd have no problem at all carry this for,a everyday carry, plus my friend had a felony charge against him and he can carry thus for protection He by the way was not convicted of murder nor rape nothing but had a habit of writing Hot Checks. I helped him out and he knew nothing about guns and thought black powder want harm anyone, had him watch old films and read History lol.also not all felons,are bad people and ge did his time and many a law maker are looking into this..but for now they can legally hunt and have a hand gun in black powder, I hunt Elk and killed many of them and moose here in Montana
Wonderfully informative video sir, thank you! I did notice that the sights were off by a bit, is there any way to zero them in and get them shooting dead on?
Sight adjustment for most of these replicas is not easy. On mod of the Remington 1858 models the front sight is dovetail which helps for left-right, but nothing for height. The 1851 colt models have no dovetail or height adjustment. Some folks (myself also in the past) will work on the notch in the hammer(rear sight is this notch), but this is a one way street. The guns usually shoot high, therefore need the front replaced with a higher one. Of course it can also have a dovetail installed which can solve both problems. (see my video about what Bill Hickok’s gun). HTTPS://RUclips.be/JXvjDZkruA o.R.
Plus they are very respectable too ! Just chrono'd mine 1858 at 390 ft-lbs at the muzzle. If you want to see for yourself I've uploaded the video. Nice thing is that the recoil is much more less punishing than would be a 9mm +P generating that power :-)
The second group was outstanding for 21 yds! the easy fix for the base pin/arbour is to cut shims that will drop into the hole, then put in enough to keep the barrel assembly from binding the cylinder with the wedge knocked hard in, I sometimes shave a little off the front of the frame to get the correct frame cylinder clearance, this fault appears to be only on US imported revolvers, I have not see it on European sold guns, so it could be that the importer is holding the manufacturer down to a low price, these guns are 3 times the price over here in Europe. Stay safe! Chris B.
Very interesting. I think you might have mentioned that before and I forgot. Did remember that someone used liquid steel to build up the arbor length slightly. I like the shim idea. As mentioned, I was always careful not to use too much force, but the down side is it can loosen. Didn't have the internet in the 80's, only could find out this sort of info from other shooters Few in my area, most just were lucky if they could load properly. Just checked the 2nd gen colts, and they have the recess cut so deep that the lower 1/3 is open. It measures about .1" or 2.5 mm I think longer than it should be. It makes perfect sense that it should be a length so that it bottoms out leaving just the right cylinder-barrel gap. As always, appreciate your comments. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Another trick to make the arbour longer is to drill and tap the end of the arbour, insert a grub screw, then adjust until the cylinder no longer binds, the grub screw can be Lock Tited in final position when you are happy with the clearance, I find that the lower barrel lug need shaving off to get a perfect fit, Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 I'm not going to ask why I didn't think of that. I have quite a bit of wobble in the cylinder of this 2nd gen 1851. If I could get rid of that with a new bolt do you think it would tighten the group some?? O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I had a misaligned cylinder on a Colt Dragoon , but it was easily cured by turning a wooden dowel to fit tightly into the grooves, then driving it down the barrel to engage the cylinder, after removing the trigger guard I could then see how much offset to make the new bolt, I made up a new bolt with a wider engagement top and fitted it through a slightly widened window until it fit snugly, it then worked much better, the other thing I have noticed about C&B revolvers is that they have no lead into the rifling, those I have seen are faced off square, with no lead at all, that cannot help the projectile on its way down the barrel, there is some experimenting to be done in this area I think, the 1873 had a tapered lead, so the C&B should respond to this treatment, stay safe ! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 By lead in are you referring to the forcing cone?? Because all of mine have a tapered (not sure what angle) lead, and the riflings start gradual that way. Thanks for the idea on the bolt fitting. I have a bolt that should work. It is wider than the slot, so if I work it right, I should be able to get it to lock up tight. O.R.
What kind of charge are you using? You can clearly see your balls flying down range at 21 yards which means your velocity is crazy low unless you are using a high speed camera which does not appear to be the case. Even for the sheriff model your velocity shouldn’t be that low, are you using undersized balls and a super low powder charge?
Probably a 25 grain 3F Goex or equivalent load with.451 RB which shaves lead. When the sun angle is correct, for some reason, the projectile is able to be visually detected. Years ago I noticed it with 38 specials standard police loads. It was neat to see the line the bullet took. Was great for practicing point shooting. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
I talked to sales, and they prefer to list things as not in stock so they don't get a bunch of orders that have to wait to be filled. My guess its that most are not available, but I believe they will take the back order and call when it's in. O.R.
From what I've read, the brass frames should not be converted to shoot the modern ammo that can use smokeless. Original Schofield gun was designed for black powder cartridge, which would probably be OK, but because it can be loaded with modern, and even if a modern steel conversion cylinder is used, the brass frame is not recommended. So, the word is that it is a NO-NO. O.R.
I think the biggest issue is with the cylinder arbor that can become loose at the base where it threads into the frame. I suppose the section of the frame under the cylinder could bend also, but usually most aren't shot that much nowadays. O.R.
@@007-c4b I could be mistaken on this, but isn't there is what appears to be a pin driven into the arbor from the rear that is keep it from loosening ? That would make it almost impossible to remove. O.R.
@@007-c4b Ok, thanks. Wasn't real sure about if I was seeing a pin, or part of the arbor, but figured a pin because too round, and off center on some guns. I have a couple of candidates that have volunteered for the operation. Just hope I line up the slot for the wedge correctly, but can probably test before the epoxy sets up. O.R.
I have used Midway USA quite a bit for stuff like Lee bullet molds and Hornady round balls. As far as primers and powder, you might try Track of the Wolf for black powder, also Gaff and Son's. I have had some luck with Cabelas for caps, but it's real tuff right now. Doing some google searches for Muzzleloading supplies might turn up something. Hope this helps. O.R.
Those 1851s have a horrible front sight. I machined a dovetail for a 98 Mauser front sight blade on my Pietta and Uberti and that’s what I use. I can regulate the elevation and can drift it left or right as needed. The Mauser front sight has a very small dovetail so you don’t need to cut too deep into the barrel.
That would be good, especially on the ones that are in 44. I agree that the front sight limits what the gun can do. I believe I have seen evidence that they were altered in the past, and I'm planning on getting out my butchering tools. O.R.
This model was sent to me from Poland to Lithuania,i am very satisfied, i am looking at yuor advice.
Nothing like unboxing a new revolver ..great shooting sir
This is only my opinion, but I think this channel is among the very best C&B / BP channels on YT. Thank you for the content.
Some thoughts : some of the guns I bought came dirty out of the box. Both were proofed in Gardone, one 1858 Uberti and one 1860 Pietta. The 1858's barrel was really dirty with a touch of rust (light surface rusting, no damage); Pietta's 1860 internals and barrel were filthy but no rust.
Last gun I got is a steel frame .36 7 1/2 inch barrel 1851 from Pietta : it came clean as a whistle. First thing I do now upon unboxing is inspect the gun and clean it if needed.
On a side note, that 1851 I got is truly an excellent gun and a shooter out of the box. Shoots better than I will ever do myself.
I'm in the habit of checking the barrel also. Had one for 4 years before checking, and there are slight pit marks now after cleaning. Doesn't affect accuracy it seems, but sure isn't nice and shinny to look at. O.R.
@@oldranger3044if you ever need any boxes lmk. I have about 60 to get rid of. And I do not want to throw them away.
Thanks Old Ranger! I have the Army and Navy and have been wanting a Sheriffs model for a long while. So this video is perfect! Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I have one of those pistols and it shoots Awesome just like yours.
Great video, thanks for sharing this 👌🤠👍
Mighty fine last target! Thanks for sharing 👍
I enjoy your videos. Glad to see you back :)
I bought the 4 7/8" barrel version of this one also a Pietta. I thought that barrel length made for a better looking revolver. I also have the standard 7.5" and the 12" barrel versions as well.
Yeah i shoot my stainless remmy often, she's a sweet shooter. Does great with 35 g old Eyensford Nd dies well with Lee conical .456
Last group pretty tight !
Thanks for the video.
God Bless
This was a hell of an informative video for a new guy here. Thanks.
Thanks Gregory, hope some info helps. O.R.
That’s what I am shooting in cowboy action in frontiersman and other than different nipples and opening rear hammer sights they are amazing and have held up to match shooting great, another great video
Not bad for shooting a new pistol right out of the box without cleaning it first! Wonder what it does with conicals and other powders! I first completely clean all oil off the outside of the new pistol a nod inspect it and note anything not right. Then completely disassemble it, checking all parts and the areas they run in after a complete clean. Remove all machine Mark's where needed and polish all parts where they move against other parts and or frame. Thin oil all parts and reassemble the pistol. This way sight in and best load and projectile is faster to find. For me I find the best load combinations with ball or conical and powder and charge all in the same outing. I always try to take a ball and a conical and at least three different powders and two or three different cap types. Usually find the best load for the pistol in one outing. Then the next outing is just sight adjustments. Making notes on accuracy leads and hunting or power loads. The paper or card I put this info on stays with the firearm for future use by me or someone else if I sell it.
Great advice. Keeping a record with the gun is the way to go. A person thinks they will remember, but not real likely. Target shot, or a copy of one is something to also keep in the box. Appreciate comment and advice. O.R.
These old smoke wagons are still relevant !
Accuracy is superb.
Reliability is ok (kept one loaded fro 2yrs and 6/6 chambers fired at first try), as long as you don't make foolish mistakes and power is respectable at 390 ft-lbs at the muzzle with moderately weak Schuetzen powder. I think they can be as powerful as standard pressure .357 magnum with proper powder selection (I'm thinking of FFFFg Swiss). Will need to check that out though.
@edit Tested !
220 gr Kaido slug
30 gr fine FFFFg Swiss
1# 953
2# 939
3# 968
4# 949
5# 971
6# 964
avg: 957 fps
KE: 447 ft-lbs.
for comparison, low end .357 magnum after wikipedia:
180 gr (12 g) JHP Federal
1,080 ft/s (330 m/s)
466 ft⋅lbf (632 J)
So my 1858 fell ~20 ft-lbs short of .357.
I could stuff about 4-5 more grains of powder under the Kaido slug but didn't want to push my luck too hard.
Nope. You'll just blow yourself to smithereens.
@@beargillium2369 I don't think you can blow up a Pietta 1858 remington unless you use smokeless or leave air gap. Ths guy loaded a full chamber of FFFFg swiss and was fine. watch?v=-n5jddoNDFk
@@MikeJLee-ye6mz personally I try to avoid getting a Darwin award
@@beargillium2369 In the period, they were using fine HAZARD powder which granulation was equivalent to modern FFFFg and metallurgy was in its infancy. Why would using a finer grain black powder in a black powder weapon be synonymous to getting a Darwin award?
@@MikeJLee-ye6mz because "in the day" a fair amount of guns did in fact explode... I understand that modern metallurgy is much better, but you have to realize that piettas and the like aren't exactly military grade equipment. They're rated for what they're rated for and to push that is to tempt fate. Couple grains over the recommended charge? Sure, you're probably safe. But moving to a finer powder simply sounds like a bad idea, to me. You do whatever you want. Look right down the barrel with your finger on the trigger for all I care, you clearly have no respect for safety or wisdom so I wish you the best of luck. You'll need it.
I have found that the Hickory wedges that come with new axe handles are great for removing barrel wedges and setting caps... you can split em and make like three nice tools about 3/4" wide and still have enough left to... well.. use as a wedge for the axe handle
👍o.R.
Hello ranger, just had a quick question for you. Im thinking of buying one of the pietta 1851 avenging angel snubnose 44's. But i like the looks of the fluted cylinder on the 1860 snubnose. Will the cylinder from a pietta 1860 fit and function on a pietta 1851 frame ? Love your videos.Thanks for any help !
If the 51 frame is for the 44 caliber, then I (believe) so, (notice the word believe), because I just did that taking my 44 1860 cylinder (2010) into a brass 44 1851 (2022) model. However, I have a fluted 44 cylinder from a 1851 (2001) that doesn’t do well in the same brass 44 because the cylinder stops (notches) are too tight for the new bolt used in the 2022 model. Suppose something to do with their tooling. If I had to bet, I’d go with yes, if they are around similar production times, but I’ve been wrong before. So, can’t give a definite yes, hope this helps. O.R.
Once again, I see that you still have a supply of Black MZ. Seems to work well in a variety of revolvers you've shot. Even shot nice groups with the shorter barrel.
Right, I got a good amount when it was being sold for ten bucks. It seems to do as well as true black; I would say no better. Probably some folks feel that it is a "cheap" shot to use it, but it's more a matter of economy. I can get the guns to shoot as well, or possibly better with the "real" stuff. I shoot a lot, and I'm starting to run low on FFF. O.R.
Lubię pana filmy. Pozdrawiam serdecznie
What a sweet old fashioned carry pistol. This style of pistol was used by the police department in Miami and okeechobee back in the ole Florida crackers and Seminole railroad days .
Neat bit of history information. Thanks Juan. O.R.
It looks like pietta has really improved their cap and ball repros since how poor their quality was in the early and mid 20 teens. I had a couple of their 1851 navy repros and 1858 police model .36 repros and the first 1851 that I bought in 2011 was great but the second one I bought in 2013 was horrible. Same story with the 1858 I bought in 2012 and 2014
I have the exact same revolver, but need some advice: What is the use of the screw above the barrel wedge? I used to remove it every time I removed the barrel, and eventually lost it. After 6 years of regular use, the wedge stays firmly in place without it.
That screw is just to keep the wedge from coming completely out when you are taking the gun apart.
I got the same one, had the hand spring break before it was shot. But they sent out a replacement spring without question through Taylor's
I'm currently waiting for my kiss konverter to show up.
I love these old replicas.
Something attractive about these old style guns - hard to explain. O.R.
21 yards that's 63 ft 1.5 inch group that's pretty impressive ,looking at picking up a couple of these
All groups won't be like that, but it does show that these guns have potential, and sometimes a fun part is the challenge to get them doing it right. O.R.
Excellent content O.R. My 1851 navy chambered in .44 is honestly one of the best shooters I have. It's the 7.5 inch barrel but I'm looking to get a 12 inch barrel to hunt with.
Hi
I believe EMF offers one. Maybe out of stock. Probably other spots also, but the folks at EMF treated me right. O.R.
@@oldranger3044I support EMF 100 percent, EMF have never done me wrong either. I have quite a few Piettas and they are real shooters!I know VTI gun parts gets them in regularly as well. Thanks for putting out new content brother, there's not many of us into these old sixguns anymore so I'm happy to see a new video from you. we must pass this art down to the younger guys...
May the LORD bless you and keep you
@@discipleochrist4202 Thanks. Not aware of VTI, but will check them out. SOON!
I have the 12" version of this and the Remington. If I recall correctly the 1851 has a slow 1:30" twist even in the 12" barrel while the Remington has a 1:16" twist. The Remington will handle any round ball or conical you can get in the cylinder and has adjustable sights making it a far better choice for hunting.
@@oldranger3044 I just bought some parts for my dad's A.S.M. 58' Remington from VTI, great customer service and received my package within 3 days.
Mines a Brass, the first cap and ball I owned, I use 20 grains I know anemic but helps keep the brass around a lil bit. I might "Forced" to get the .44 in steel. I will admit to the 7 inch barrel be better just for the rammer is easier.
Yes, longer loading lever makes life in the loading area easier. Slixprings makes an extension for easier loading called slix hand that sells for about $20. The 20 grain load is all you need for basic fun and shooting, and you are correct; it is easier on the gun for target and plinking. O.R.
Very nice looking pistol sir
keep it coming..... I shoot cap and ball 100% of the time.... modern guns are good for home defense but all the fun is with the cap and ball
You might enjoy one that I'm just finishing on checking out a Cimarron 1851 navy. O.R.
I'd have no problem at all carry this for,a everyday carry, plus my friend had a felony charge against him and he can carry thus for protection He by the way was not convicted of murder nor rape nothing but had a habit of writing Hot Checks. I helped him out and he knew nothing about guns and thought black powder want harm anyone, had him watch old films and read History lol.also not all felons,are bad people and ge did his time and many a law maker are looking into this..but for now they can legally hunt and have a hand gun in black powder, I hunt Elk and killed many of them and moose here in Montana
Wonderfully informative video sir, thank you! I did notice that the sights were off by a bit, is there any way to zero them in and get them shooting dead on?
Sight adjustment for most of these replicas is not easy. On mod of the Remington 1858 models the front sight is dovetail which helps for left-right, but nothing for height. The 1851 colt models have no dovetail or height adjustment. Some folks (myself also in the past) will work on the notch in the hammer(rear sight is this notch), but this is a one way street. The guns usually shoot high, therefore need the front replaced with a higher one. Of course it can also have a dovetail installed which can solve both problems. (see my video about what Bill Hickok’s gun).
HTTPS://RUclips.be/JXvjDZkruA o.R.
@@oldranger3044 ah I see. I will definitely check out that video, thanks!
@@THE.0bs01ete 👍
Just shot my 1858 today. With ammo prices the way they are. Black powder guns are still very affordable.
Plus they are very respectable too ! Just chrono'd mine 1858 at 390 ft-lbs at the muzzle. If you want to see for yourself I've uploaded the video. Nice thing is that the recoil is much more less punishing than would be a 9mm +P generating that power :-)
The second group was outstanding for 21 yds! the easy fix for the base pin/arbour is to cut shims that will drop into the hole, then put in enough to keep the barrel assembly from binding the cylinder with the wedge knocked hard in, I sometimes shave a little off the front of the frame to get the correct frame cylinder clearance, this fault appears to be only on US imported revolvers, I have not see it on European sold guns, so it could be that the importer is holding the manufacturer down to a low price, these guns are 3 times the price over here in Europe. Stay safe! Chris B.
Very interesting. I think you might have mentioned that before and I forgot. Did remember that someone used liquid steel to build up the arbor length slightly. I like the shim idea. As mentioned, I was always careful not to use too much force, but the down side is it can loosen. Didn't have the internet in the 80's, only could find out this sort of info from other shooters Few in my area, most just were lucky if they could load properly. Just checked the 2nd gen colts, and they have the recess cut so deep that the lower 1/3 is open. It measures about .1" or 2.5 mm I think longer than it should be. It makes perfect sense that it should be a length so that it bottoms out leaving just the right cylinder-barrel gap. As always, appreciate your comments. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Another trick to make the arbour longer is to drill and tap the end of the arbour, insert a grub screw, then adjust until the cylinder no longer binds, the grub screw can be Lock Tited in final position when you are happy with the clearance, I find that the lower barrel lug need shaving off to get a perfect fit, Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 I'm not going to ask why I didn't think of that. I have quite a bit of wobble in the cylinder of this 2nd gen 1851. If I could get rid of that with a new bolt do you think it would tighten the group some?? O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I had a misaligned cylinder on a Colt Dragoon , but it was easily cured by turning a wooden dowel to fit tightly into the grooves, then driving it down the barrel to engage the cylinder, after removing the trigger guard I could then see how much offset to make the new bolt, I made up a new bolt with a wider engagement top and fitted it through a slightly widened window until it fit snugly, it then worked much better, the other thing I have noticed about C&B revolvers is that they have no lead into the rifling, those I have seen are faced off square, with no lead at all, that cannot help the projectile on its way down the barrel, there is some experimenting to be done in this area I think, the 1873 had a tapered lead, so the C&B should respond to this treatment, stay safe ! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 By lead in are you referring to the forcing cone?? Because all of mine have a tapered (not sure what angle) lead, and the riflings start gradual that way.
Thanks for the idea on the bolt fitting. I have a bolt that should work. It is wider than the slot, so if I work it right, I should be able to get it to lock up tight. O.R.
What kind of charge are you using? You can clearly see your balls flying down range at 21 yards which means your velocity is crazy low unless you are using a high speed camera which does not appear to be the case.
Even for the sheriff model your velocity shouldn’t be that low, are you using undersized balls and a super low powder charge?
Probably a 25 grain 3F Goex or equivalent load with.451 RB which shaves lead. When the sun angle is correct, for some reason, the projectile is able to be visually detected. Years ago I noticed it with 38 specials standard police loads. It was neat to see the line the bullet took. Was great for practicing point shooting. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
does EMF site say whether the item is currently in stock or not?I can't really tell.
I talked to sales, and they prefer to list things as not in stock so they don't get a bunch of orders that have to wait to be filled. My guess its that most are not available, but I believe they will take the back order and call when it's in. O.R.
With the brass frame, is this ok to convert to .45 Schofield?? TY
From what I've read, the brass frames should not be converted to shoot the modern ammo that can use smokeless. Original Schofield gun was designed for black powder cartridge, which would probably be OK, but because it can be loaded with modern, and even if a modern steel conversion cylinder is used, the brass frame is not recommended. So, the word is that it is a NO-NO. O.R.
Great stuff mate 👍 I reckon both are a pretty good groupings I like the holster you have for her aswell 👍
Thanks. Probably shoots as good or better than I, can't ask for more. O.R.
The brass frame colts can warp or bend in time, correct?
I think the biggest issue is with the cylinder arbor that can become loose at the base where it threads into the frame. I suppose the section of the frame under the cylinder could bend also, but usually most aren't shot that much nowadays. O.R.
@@007-c4b I could be mistaken on this, but isn't there is what appears to be a pin driven into the arbor from the rear that is keep it from loosening ? That would make it almost impossible to remove. O.R.
@@007-c4b Ok, thanks. Wasn't real sure about if I was seeing a pin, or part of the arbor, but figured a pin because too round, and off center on some guns. I have a couple of candidates that have volunteered for the operation. Just hope I line up the slot for the wedge correctly, but can probably test before the epoxy sets up. O.R.
@@007-c4b Sure appreciate your comments, and great details. O.R.
What size cap?
Number 10 REM. My no.10 cci are a bit tight. O.R.
You really can't ask for more then that from a cap gun
And when I was a kid, some of those cap guns were actually quite pricy. I'll bet almost half as much as the Pietta in todays dollars. O.R.
Where can I get good cheap ammo and accessories for mine ?
I have used Midway USA quite a bit for stuff like Lee bullet molds and Hornady round balls. As far as primers and powder, you might try Track of the Wolf for black powder, also Gaff and Son's. I have had some luck with Cabelas for caps, but it's real tuff right now. Doing some google searches for Muzzleloading supplies might turn up something. Hope this helps. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Thanks
Those 1851s have a horrible front sight. I machined a dovetail for a 98 Mauser front sight blade on my Pietta and Uberti and that’s what I use. I can regulate the elevation and can drift it left or right as needed. The Mauser front sight has a very small dovetail so you don’t need to cut too deep into the barrel.
That would be good, especially on the ones that are in 44. I agree that the front sight limits what the gun can do. I believe I have seen evidence that they were altered in the past, and I'm planning on getting out my butchering tools. O.R.
Less than two pound trigger pull?!
2 1/4 near as I can measure. Works well for targets, but I feel otherwise it's a bit light. O.R.
✔✔✔
As soon as I saw a “man” opening a box with a butter knife I knew his credibility is suspect.Major Fail