If you want your car to sound like a v8 than buy a v8. I have an ecoboost and I would never try to make it sound like a v8 might as well save my money and trade it in for a v8
@@hoosiernative9668 Exactly! I know my 4-banger will never sound like a GT. Don't want it to, either. There's a difference between wanting it to sound good and wanting it to sound like a GT.
I agree for the most part except for the CAI. Depending on the CAI. Going from stock to the shelby GT350 CAI intake and tune (the tune doesn't work with stock air box) made a dramatic difference. According to 224xLC dynojet made almost 90 hp at peak gains and almost 100 tq at peak gains. IMO CAI is worth it if you buy a tune and intake specific for one another together.
Easily one of the worst and most misleading videos I’ve seen on the eb. Providing no evidence and just ones shitty opinion. Maybe at the time of this videos the stock cai might have been better but not now. Cai, borla downpipe, mbrp cat-backs with a tune, gained 110hp and 125 tq. Exhaust sounds deep and not like a ricer. I’ve had these mods on for about 20,000 miles and haven’t had one problem.
yeah and a few other little simple things will help like performance injectors and some nice spark plugs. Then all that after a tune will help a ton. Also allowing the engine to breathe is your most important factor and then you can start raising boost pressure.
I agree with 100%. I’ve never heard such stupid shit in a 8 minute video..... literally almost every mod he said to “not do” is what I’m about to do lmfaoooo Roush cold air intake has PROVEN to add horsepower up to 35 horsepower I seen it on dyno with no other aftermarket parts or tubes. Intercoolers obviously lower your temps, how is that a bad thing ?????? I’ve literally never heard anybody say a Cobb tune doesn’t change horsepower wtf is this dude smoking ????? I’ve literally seen all these parts installed one by one and then put on dyno with gains of up to 110 whp.... most misleading information I’ve ever heard. He must be butthurt about something.
I had a cobb accessport v3 stage 3 no issues at all. Mods I ran on my eco was a full mbrp exhaust, jlt cai, cpe exhale kit with a cpe intercooler. Loved that car only reason I got rid of it was because I didnt want to upgrade the turbo. Great car absolutely loved it but now I have a gt, time to mod that
The intercooler part, dude, did you black out for those two minutes? I've had both sizes from a stock location intercooler, to a big FFTEC unit with a Garrett core. Barely any difference between the units. Any stock sized replacement is a huge upgrade from stock and one of the best mods you can do to this thing. Super cheap on the used market also.
Most of your advice really applies to the 3.5 ecoboost taurus and lincoln as well. Intake does nothing but add a louder turbo sound. The stock ford intake is not a bottleneck. At least not yet. Aftermarket exhaust rasps like crazy, but does add HP. Definitely go with a custum tune from a reputable tuner like Unleased or Livernois.
Lol. Roush intake makes for better airflow, pulls more air is cools you down faster = more power. You will want one maybe not as a first mod. Plus yes it sounds fantastic.
This is an older video so may have changed but I installed the Cobb stage 1 93 tune and love it. Car has a lot more power but more important drives and shifts better. Now I bought the car to drive 10 more years so not out racing it.
Personally I just use my cobb access port for data logging and as a gauge cluster. I have a 2002 ford ranger that has a 2.0 ecoboost swap and it works great for viewing sensor info and all that.
I think the complaint on the CAI may be misplaced. Many people swear by the FOrd Performance kit. I do think it is important to get the calibration tune with it though. Making a significant change to the intake parameters without the proper tune almost certainly *would* loose power.
There are certain caveats however to his "suggestions" which I feel should be expanded on, and I am not saying he is wrong, just adding to it. 1. Cobb AP OTSs are listed specifically for the mods you "should" have and you should not be running anything higher than a stage one without any of the supporting mods, these tunes were done by cob based on their parts, so unless you are running similar AND the correct octane. Get a custom tune, but I ran the OTS tunes on my EBM which was more than bolt on (big turbo too) and I did not have any issues, and no knocking, so I would just leave this, your octane may vary. I would not be surprised if he is getting gas that is less than rated and does not know it, its very common. You should be running a knock count PID and Octane adjustment PID of some sort on your tuner logs to confirm knock/ping values are withing normal states. 2. Throttle body spacers (not w/bung in the spacer), or larger throttle bodies are pretty much only good if your running a big turbo or methanol. (note there is also a 70mm Ford Racing TB available as well, but if you not running 29 psi+ its uselsss). The Intake spacer is only good if it has extra injector bungs for secondary port injections or methanol. Making the runner length longer will only move the torque curve lower in the range but its negligible by adding an 1" It is siimilar to what happens when you add a cobrajet intake to a coyote engine, same effect, you the runners are actually shorter and it moves the torque curve higher in the RPM so you lose torque down low but gain it higher in the rev range. The TB spacer thing is more about adding turbulence to the air flow to help with atomizing air fuel better and it is kind of useless if your not spraying a power adder like NOS or Methanol. 3. Most un-boxed and open CAIs do not improve performance unless the tube size is greater than stock but often take a air temp hit being open to engine bay heat, if not tucked into the fender. IF you get a full Airaid or similar intake you will make similar power to stock but that is is, it looks cool and nothing more. I personally like the extra noise of an open CAI but I like it tucked in the fender, or like the GT350 intake were you get the best of both you get a larger inlet, better sound and same if not better performance over the stock unit. Losses and gains are not high enough in most situations to make it noticeable as shown by one of the last engineering explained videos on this, something like + - 2-3+% 4. I totally agree on the exhaust portion, no strait pipes without a resonator and even then I am way iffy on that. It is hard to get the sound right. Borla ataks are great, loud with a good growly rasp and no drone, and I would not even run a non catted DP with those.... Everyone likes MBRP race cat backs because they provide similar gains and sound to Magnaflows comps at less than $600 for 409 stainless.... It is popular for the bang for the buck crowd and are attainable by most people, where as dropping $1500 for just a cat back is hard on the mod wallet. FYI I lost 4PSI of boost due to running the stock resonator on a larger turbo with a down pipe due to restrictions, I would remove that restriction as a first mod even on a stock EBM you would gain better performance even with just that and a decent tune. 5. I ran a mishimoto intercooler with my large turbo and had no AIT issues it maintained a healthy 10 degrees lower than stock under full load, and was good up to about 465HP without any heat soak issues, however everyone should know that heat soak is an issue with all ICs if you are not moving, its how efficient they are with air flow that counts. Large front mounts are always better but you may have a cost of the Active grill setup to do it, so that should be kept in mind, and also remember that the larger volume of the intercooler is often followed by a small loss of pressure too. You will gain better temps at a slight loss of boost pressure. So make sure your tuner is good. I would add a 6th mod to the list and that is billet water pump pulley. you will find its very hard to find a full set of lightweight pulleys for the EBM and doing just one such as the water pump pulley from MMR or whomever will net zero real world gains from dropping a tiny bit of rotation weight from the drive system. I would also add to that the process to do pulleys can be incredibly complex as well as you have to lock the crank in position etc. which required work front and rear of the motor to do full pulleys anyway and the price and time/labor to performance gains (Unless you pulled your motor and are full bore forging your block) is just not worth it, you are better off pulling the balance shaft instead for a real world 20lb drop in rotational mass weight. =)
CV Fab units are very nice, just installed the street version on mine. Made a nice difference with minimal invasive modifications. It really depends on what you are looking for doesn't it ? I may go to my local 1/8th mile track once or twice a year to play and make a handful of passes, that's it for me. No hot lapping or constant beating on my car so the street intercooler should be fine for how I plan on using it.
You forgot to mention MPT as a tuner when you have an SCT X4 device they have some of the best Tunes out there when it comes to the V6 and the EcoBoost
I had a sct tuner and it completely erased my autostart -.- lol even when I reverted back to the stock tune it was still gone. Had to take it back to the stealership and get it reprogrammed.
Great video! The only thing that jumps at me is the intercooler comment and exhaust. For the exhaust, I think it's just personal preference so not much to comment there. I have the MBRP Race and for me it sounds awesome. Now on the intercooler; the position placement I agree to an extent. However, a stock location IC should not be discarded. I have the Mishimoto and my charge and air temps are 30 degrees lower on all conditions compared to the stock one. I think the Levels Performance may do the same or even lower. It's all about design and quality in my opinion. The performance of the Mishimoto and CPE are night and day amazing. For sure we can all agree, the stock IC MUST be replaced immediately. With that IC car runs constantly in the mid and high hundreds degrees F.
Watch My Eco different people talk a lot, but no one provides proof. We can talk about this all day, but for people to believe it, provide some datalog comparisons between any of the ones you mentioned, before you trash/discard any brand.
Frank Nunez I've seen plenty of charge air temp logs of mishimoto and it comes nowhere close to say levels or ets. I'll stand behind my statement that there's no point in buying a stock location intercooler when for similiar price you can get a bigger front mount
Watch My Eco If you haven't had both personally installed and done a comparison, it is worth nothing. You can't compare someone else's logs because the entire setup is different. You have to compare apples to apples. But anyways, great video!
I really don’t know what to do for my 2020 Eco Mustang. It has the active exhaust and I think it sounds all right, so maybe just the intercooler upgrade and let the rest alone? This is all new to me, wish I could find a local shop that could be one stop for any mods.
intake manifold spacer is used to add meth lines or extra injectors. i use it in my fiesta st for methanol injection. the other ones i do agree on. just like you said. if you are using it for meth....
I was actually thinking about doing a temporary straight pipe by just doing a muffler and resonator delete.. but mine doesn’t sound anything like yours
I use the same. For my daily driver and a long distance trips it works great. Sometimes I wish I had more but that is what a V8 is for. It sounds good without trying to be something that it isn't.
@@skillz_311 Depends on what you are going for. If you want loud then Competition. If you just want a deep tone without being as loud then Street. That being said, I love my Street Cat-back. Seems to be loud only when it needs to be and doesn't sound like your average turbo'd 4 banger. Nice deep tone at lower RPMs and not so loud that you can't hear the turbo. You can still tell it's a 4, but it sounds good.
CAI is debatable. Intercooler I know nothing about. Only exhaust you should consider is the Borla stage 3 ATAK cat back system. That system sounded really good on my old Ecoboost. Instead of a tune I did the Ford Racing performance package, keeps the factory warranty too. I did a throttle body spacer and while I knew there would be no power gains, there was a noticable increase of almost 0.5 mpg.
Had a throttle bodied put on my 16 eco boost without the tune 3 hp gain with tune accommodated for the new throttle bodied gained 11 hp. That's a huge gain for a simple bolt on. Throttle bodies aren't a horsepower myth they do work.
Would the Ariade intake be any good I’m still iffy if I want to buy one cuz I’ve seen and hear people say they lost 10 to 15 horsepower and gained torque
Add the k-brace (if no PP) and strut tower brace first. Better to be able to use the stock power in the corners before you go looking to add even more.
The Cobb stage 2 and 3 off-the-shelf tunes are only to be used if you have installed the bolt-on upgrades that Cobb indicates are needed for those tunes to be effective. For example, you should only install a stage 3 91 octane tune if you have bolted on a CAI, a turbo-back exhaust, a larger innercooler, and are very running 91 octane fuel. Otherwise, you don't have the hardware to support the upgraded tune and be you're asking for trouble. People who expect a tunner to make big hp and torque gains without the proper bolt-on mods are ignoring the most important part of the equation.
I have a front mount mishimoto Inter cooler, ford performance cold air intake(with calibration), and a mbrp race catback and the difference in power is nuts. Do what you want to your car lol
I would also say the adapter to make your stock bov blow out into atmosphere. Apparently they make your car run super rich. Stay stock or go with a full bov.
Plus Ford Mustang Ecoboost use MAP tuning not MAF, meaning the air that is being vented by the blow off valve adapter is not affecting the way the ECU is metering air and fuel
I don’t understand why not to install a cold air intake¿¿?? Wouldn’t it make it perform better?? How would it lose hp?¿ I’m confused. I really want a cold air intake but I don’t understand why not to get one??
Not all CAI are identical so the sealed units perform like the OEM unit but with more surface area, I use the OEM air box with K&N and Airiaid intake. I would recommend using a direct replacement/street intercooler for anyone who wants to preserve the warranty. Using a Race intercooler will likely void the warranty. I use the street series IC. To kill the exhaust drone on a full Turbo back exahust I had a 12 inch, 2.25 diameter glasspack installed after the catted downpipe connected to the MBRP. Without the glasspack the drone was horrible. The reason I used the 2.25 diameter glasspack was to allow running the engine safely both tuned and untuned. I use the SCT tuner with the Bama custom tunes but I only run the 91 tune on 93 Octane. Going Pro tune is fine but realize the more aggressive tunes comes with higher risk of failure. Running a mild 91 tune on 93 Octane is best for street use IMO.
I agree, I always hear people say the MBRP exhausts are the best because their cheap and have a decent tone, and most cat-backs or straight pipes ecoboosts sound terrible. I put the corsa turbo-back on my car and it is the best sounding in my opinion, it's 3 in diameter and made of stainless steel that won't rust, the only downside is the cost of it.
But isn’t it better to have an upgraded inter cooler so you don’t overheat what about an oil cooler or transmission cooler ? After a while it gets hot and sluggish so I feel like it would help out alot
I put a k&n drop in filter with the stock box and it seemed a lot better over the stock paper filter. I was thinking on a vortex intercooler as I want a larger turbocharger and a mbrp 3 inch exhaust system what are your thoughts I want the ford motorsport twin cams but I need advice on a tuner like bama or if I get a custom tune there is a shop near me that works on Subaru racing that said they could help me. Your thoughts would be helpful.
It's a hot air intake on any car unless it's completely closed in with that box ,. you get the swoosh sound from the recirculating valve but all the hot air from the engine as well . That's why they made a box with air that comes in from outside the car you would get more air flow with a drop in filter ...... You can lose tourge as well with these cat back systems if you don't have a tune a car back with out a tune r catless pipes etc is just noise not HP I tried these at the track I lost HP without a tune nd the above listed mods .
Elliott Haley roush are really nice I have them on mine if you want to spend more than that maybe MBRP but I prefer the sound of Roush and it’s a bit less on your wallet
@@Pepper-Jack I sold the Roush off of mine for the MBRP race. I wanted 3in piping. I hated the tone of my Roush. Way too raspy for my taste. The MBRP offered a better sound and larger diameter pipe for half the price.
So a roush cold air intake won't do anything for my 2021 ecoboost?? I've seen American muscle put them in the cars. Just would like to know if it helps
I have the Roush Cold Air Intake on. my 2021 Ecoboost High Performance Package along with the MAP Street Intercooler and they work very will together, I have seen as low as 2 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference and routinely have a 4 to 6 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. In stop and go traffic I see a 9 to 11 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. So yes the Roush cold air intake does work and it works very well.
Bear on A unicycle i do not believe so. I have an automatic so it doesn't allow me to change launch control or anything like that. Don't believe rev limiter can be adjusted though
Adrian Cortez you’re not completely wrong but I’ve been tuning cars for a long time and you’re stock ecu has enough timing and play in the system to change performance without a tune the biggest lie is when people buy cheap cold air intakes expecting power gains! The only ones that hold true are ones that are enclosed and unfortunately really expensive...
Quick question man. I notice your eco boost doesn’t have a motor cover. Did you take it off or did it not come with one. I just got a 2021 with 101a package and it didn’t have one. But I wanted one.
@@madtaste9270no one wanted them. They also allow the heat to soak in the engine and on the upper engine electronics. I took it off as soon as I bought mine. Best decision as cylinder head temps went down about 10f on average. (This was the spring)
I don't own a Stang but I do own a 4 cyl chevy baged turbo car with some mods stage 1 class always wanted a mustang 🐎 tho ...I see lots of rivalry here for the 4 banger vs the 5.0 pretty crazy !!!!!
These are fair suggestions if your ecoboost is basically stock. I put together a built 2.0 esslinger longbock, stock head/cam, precision turbo, CVF downpipe, CVF Race Intercooler, and fabricated air intake pipe (CPE), MBRP Race exhaust. Car is a little beast now. The combination of these mods and strength of the 2.0 block with forged internals is expensive way to go, but the stock setup went ecoboom. Car was dynoed and only restriction now is fuel pressure dropping out above 6200 rpm. High pressure Pump upgrade is next. One cool thing is I can average 32 MPG on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. Fun cars but build with an upfront plan so your parts all meet the desired goal. ruclips.net/video/dsm-Ox4kjXQ/видео.html
I got the 18 ecoboost with the access port and an intake. I got the 93 stage 1 on the car and it runs great. The car stock comes with s limiter of 120mph. Cobb accessport took it off now the car gets me to 148-150
Agree with you on the intake part, but also look into Tune+ intake housing thing (don't know the technical name) - only got my Roush cause it ended up being free lol A good IC in my opinion is Treadstone price and performance wise. MBRP is pretty decent for the price, and damn your exhaust is maaaad loud lol Got my TB spacer for the free lmfaoo
I would like to say I enjoy your videos very much you and Alexander Goodrun got some of the best content on the S550 Mustang on RUclips.. Real world scenarios with real world drivers.. I agree somewhat with you on the cold air intakes but if you are tuning they do have the potential to be beneficial . but for the most part they do sound really good when they're installed I don't think the upgrade is necessarily worth it (performance wise).. but in sound-wise definitely worth the investment.. I also watch the video why you got rid of the Cyclone for the EcoBoost. for me it was opposite I had the EcoBoost and got the V6 for the reason the more I upgraded the EcoBoost the more issues I was having but that could have been the due to the heat that we have in the desert climates.. keep up the great videos I enjoy watching them..😃
2015-2017 you’ll have minor issues with the vehicle before 120,000 miles. 2018- is the way to go in my opinion. Spend the extra couple hundred bucks to get a better built vehicle. If you don’t rag on it every time you drive it and do all proper maintenance on it, it could go 200,000+ miles trouble free.
We put an MBRP race cat back on a 16 Ecoboost. Less weight than the factory system which is good, but too much drone for me. I would consider the MBRP sport instead.
Am I the only person who thinks Ford should hire Yamaha again to make the ecoboost a crossplane to give it that excellent V8 tone?
What would EcoBoost haters bitch about then? lol
@nismo510 Yamaha
If you want your car to sound like a v8 than buy a v8. I have an ecoboost and I would never try to make it sound like a v8 might as well save my money and trade it in for a v8
@@hoosiernative9668 Exactly! I know my 4-banger will never sound like a GT. Don't want it to, either. There's a difference between wanting it to sound good and wanting it to sound like a GT.
I agree for the most part except for the CAI. Depending on the CAI. Going from stock to the shelby GT350 CAI intake and tune (the tune doesn't work with stock air box) made a dramatic difference. According to 224xLC dynojet made almost 90 hp at peak gains and almost 100 tq at peak gains. IMO CAI is worth it if you buy a tune and intake specific for one another together.
I cracked up at first when he said, unless you're doing meth...", lmao!!! I mature so hard!!!
I wasn't the only one lmao 😂
When you first hit the gas, it kinda sounds like a diesel truck. I love the loud turbo sound :)
Easily one of the worst and most misleading videos I’ve seen on the eb. Providing no evidence and just ones shitty opinion. Maybe at the time of this videos the stock cai might have been better but not now. Cai, borla downpipe, mbrp cat-backs with a tune, gained 110hp and 125 tq. Exhaust sounds deep and not like a ricer. I’ve had these mods on for about 20,000 miles and haven’t had one problem.
What mods do u have I’m trying to run the same setup???
yeah and a few other little simple things will help like performance injectors and some nice spark plugs. Then all that after a tune will help a ton. Also allowing the engine to breathe is your most important factor and then you can start raising boost pressure.
I agree with 100%. I’ve never heard such stupid shit in a 8 minute video..... literally almost every mod he said to “not do” is what I’m about to do lmfaoooo
Roush cold air intake has PROVEN to add horsepower up to 35 horsepower I seen it on dyno with no other aftermarket parts or tubes. Intercoolers obviously lower your temps, how is that a bad thing ?????? I’ve literally never heard anybody say a Cobb tune doesn’t change horsepower wtf is this dude smoking ?????
I’ve literally seen all these parts installed one by one and then put on dyno with gains of up to 110 whp.... most misleading information I’ve ever heard. He must be butthurt about something.
I had a cobb accessport v3 stage 3 no issues at all. Mods I ran on my eco was a full mbrp exhaust, jlt cai, cpe exhale kit with a cpe intercooler. Loved that car only reason I got rid of it was because I didnt want to upgrade the turbo. Great car absolutely loved it but now I have a gt, time to mod that
The intercooler part, dude, did you black out for those two minutes? I've had both sizes from a stock location intercooler, to a big FFTEC unit with a Garrett core. Barely any difference between the units. Any stock sized replacement is a huge upgrade from stock and one of the best mods you can do to this thing. Super cheap on the used market also.
Yeah seriously this guy doesn’t even know half of what he’s saying
Most of your advice really applies to the 3.5 ecoboost taurus and lincoln as well. Intake does nothing but add a louder turbo sound. The stock ford intake is not a bottleneck. At least not yet. Aftermarket exhaust rasps like crazy, but does add HP. Definitely go with a custum tune from a reputable tuner like Unleased or Livernois.
flow master axel back with a reso delete y pipe sound just perfet without it being trash
Well I just installed the roush cold air intake in my ecoboost, and I've noticed significantly more power vs the stock box. No tune
Maybe less HP, more torque?
Had the same intake... Trashed it. Stock box, high flow filter, airaid pipe and velossatech big mouth. Your welcome
Ford sells a cold air intake kit and a tune that adds 75HP and 64lb-ft on their official website for the ecoboost. Ford Part Number: M-9603-M4
Lol. Roush intake makes for better airflow, pulls more air is cools you down faster = more power. You will want one maybe not as a first mod. Plus yes it sounds fantastic.
Same here
This is an older video so may have changed but I installed the Cobb stage 1 93 tune and love it. Car has a lot more power but more important drives and shifts better. Now I bought the car to drive 10 more years so not out racing it.
Great advice on the exhaust and intake mods. I think most of us viewers have done the wrong mods on our vehicles at one point. Thanks for posting.
Personally I just use my cobb access port for data logging and as a gauge cluster. I have a 2002 ford ranger that has a 2.0 ecoboost swap and it works great for viewing sensor info and all that.
At least he owns his mistakes and passes on his findings on to us!
You WOULD, however, want a cold air intake, with a larger inlet pipe, IF you go big turbo. With THAT you’ll see gains. 👌
Can't go wrong with the magnaflow competition catback
I think the complaint on the CAI may be misplaced. Many people swear by the FOrd Performance kit. I do think it is important to get the calibration tune with it though. Making a significant change to the intake parameters without the proper tune almost certainly *would* loose power.
There are certain caveats however to his "suggestions" which I feel should be expanded on, and I am not saying he is wrong, just adding to it.
1. Cobb AP OTSs are listed specifically for the mods you "should" have and you should not be running anything higher than a stage one without any of the supporting mods, these tunes were done by cob based on their parts, so unless you are running similar AND the correct octane. Get a custom tune, but I ran the OTS tunes on my EBM which was more than bolt on (big turbo too) and I did not have any issues, and no knocking, so I would just leave this, your octane may vary. I would not be surprised if he is getting gas that is less than rated and does not know it, its very common. You should be running a knock count PID and Octane adjustment PID of some sort on your tuner logs to confirm knock/ping values are withing normal states.
2. Throttle body spacers (not w/bung in the spacer), or larger throttle bodies are pretty much only good if your running a big turbo or methanol. (note there is also a 70mm Ford Racing TB available as well, but if you not running 29 psi+ its uselsss). The Intake spacer is only good if it has extra injector bungs for secondary port injections or methanol. Making the runner length longer will only move the torque curve lower in the range but its negligible by adding an 1" It is siimilar to what happens when you add a cobrajet intake to a coyote engine, same effect, you the runners are actually shorter and it moves the torque curve higher in the RPM so you lose torque down low but gain it higher in the rev range. The TB spacer thing is more about adding turbulence to the air flow to help with atomizing air fuel better and it is kind of useless if your not spraying a power adder like NOS or Methanol.
3. Most un-boxed and open CAIs do not improve performance unless the tube size is greater than stock but often take a air temp hit being open to engine bay heat, if not tucked into the fender. IF you get a full Airaid or similar intake you will make similar power to stock but that is is, it looks cool and nothing more. I personally like the extra noise of an open CAI but I like it tucked in the fender, or like the GT350 intake were you get the best of both you get a larger inlet, better sound and same if not better performance over the stock unit. Losses and gains are not high enough in most situations to make it noticeable as shown by one of the last engineering explained videos on this, something like + - 2-3+%
4. I totally agree on the exhaust portion, no strait pipes without a resonator and even then I am way iffy on that. It is hard to get the sound right. Borla ataks are great, loud with a good growly rasp and no drone, and I would not even run a non catted DP with those.... Everyone likes MBRP race cat backs because they provide similar gains and sound to Magnaflows comps at less than $600 for 409 stainless.... It is popular for the bang for the buck crowd and are attainable by most people, where as dropping $1500 for just a cat back is hard on the mod wallet. FYI I lost 4PSI of boost due to running the stock resonator on a larger turbo with a down pipe due to restrictions, I would remove that restriction as a first mod even on a stock EBM you would gain better performance even with just that and a decent tune.
5. I ran a mishimoto intercooler with my large turbo and had no AIT issues it maintained a healthy 10 degrees lower than stock under full load, and was good up to about 465HP without any heat soak issues, however everyone should know that heat soak is an issue with all ICs if you are not moving, its how efficient they are with air flow that counts. Large front mounts are always better but you may have a cost of the Active grill setup to do it, so that should be kept in mind, and also remember that the larger volume of the intercooler is often followed by a small loss of pressure too. You will gain better temps at a slight loss of boost pressure. So make sure your tuner is good.
I would add a 6th mod to the list and that is billet water pump pulley. you will find its very hard to find a full set of lightweight pulleys for the EBM and doing just one such as the water pump pulley from MMR or whomever will net zero real world gains from dropping a tiny bit of rotation weight from the drive system. I would also add to that the process to do pulleys can be incredibly complex as well as you have to lock the crank in position etc. which required work front and rear of the motor to do full pulleys anyway and the price and time/labor to performance gains (Unless you pulled your motor and are full bore forging your block) is just not worth it, you are better off pulling the balance shaft instead for a real world 20lb drop in rotational mass weight. =)
CV Fab units are very nice, just installed the street version on mine. Made a nice difference with minimal invasive modifications. It really depends on what you are looking for doesn't it ? I may go to my local 1/8th mile track once or twice a year to play and make a handful of passes, that's it for me. No hot lapping or constant beating on my car so the street intercooler should be fine for how I plan on using it.
I got the CFV street because it's best for daily use, havnt installed it yet. Only reason to get a massive one is to race and track
You forgot to mention MPT as a tuner when you have an SCT X4 device they have some of the best Tunes out there when it comes to the V6 and the EcoBoost
I had a sct tuner and it completely erased my autostart -.- lol even when I reverted back to the stock tune it was still gone. Had to take it back to the stealership and get it reprogrammed.
Great video! The only thing that jumps at me is the intercooler comment and exhaust. For the exhaust, I think it's just personal preference so not much to comment there. I have the MBRP Race and for me it sounds awesome. Now on the intercooler; the position placement I agree to an extent. However, a stock location IC should not be discarded. I have the Mishimoto and my charge and air temps are 30 degrees lower on all conditions compared to the stock one. I think the Levels Performance may do the same or even lower. It's all about design and quality in my opinion. The performance of the Mishimoto and CPE are night and day amazing. For sure we can all agree, the stock IC MUST be replaced immediately. With that IC car runs constantly in the mid and high hundreds degrees F.
Frank Nunez interesting because the mishimoto intercooler is actually the one everyone says is the worst one you can buy lol
Watch My Eco different people talk a lot, but no one provides proof. We can talk about this all day, but for people to believe it, provide some datalog comparisons between any of the ones you mentioned, before you trash/discard any brand.
Frank Nunez I've seen plenty of charge air temp logs of mishimoto and it comes nowhere close to say levels or ets. I'll stand behind my statement that there's no point in buying a stock location intercooler when for similiar price you can get a bigger front mount
Watch My Eco If you haven't had both personally installed and done a comparison, it is worth nothing. You can't compare someone else's logs because the entire setup is different. You have to compare apples to apples. But anyways, great video!
I really don’t know what to do for my 2020 Eco Mustang. It has the active exhaust and I think it sounds all right, so maybe just the intercooler upgrade and let the rest alone? This is all new to me, wish I could find a local shop that could be one stop for any mods.
I wish I knew all of this when I started doing my mods
Find a better flowing exhaust system, not a louder one. That sounds like shit.
intake manifold spacer is used to add meth lines or extra injectors. i use it in my fiesta st for methanol injection. the other ones i do agree on. just like you said. if you are using it for meth....
Mercer bear?! i’m going to mercer uni when i graduate!
I was actually thinking about doing a temporary straight pipe by just doing a muffler and resonator delete.. but mine doesn’t sound anything like yours
So don’t do the Cobb tuner preloaded tunes? Why does the Stg2,3 have so much knock? Do those tunes require step colder plugs to work properly?
I have cai and downpipe with muffler delete , can I go stage 2 or stay still stage 1 on Cobb?
Just put on magnaflow street cat back, nice deep tone, love it! Comes alive when you want it too!
I use the same. For my daily driver and a long distance trips it works great. Sometimes I wish I had more but that is what a V8 is for. It sounds good without trying to be something that it isn't.
@@AyatoWard I can't decide ....Street or Competition?
@@skillz_311 Depends on what you are going for. If you want loud then Competition. If you just want a deep tone without being as loud then Street. That being said, I love my Street Cat-back. Seems to be loud only when it needs to be and doesn't sound like your average turbo'd 4 banger. Nice deep tone at lower RPMs and not so loud that you can't hear the turbo. You can still tell it's a 4, but it sounds good.
So if I get a Cobb access port and get the burble tune upgrade will it hurt my car?
I put a K&N filter in and I got to say, it holds the mid range rpm`s a little bit longer.
Whaat exhuast set up you running? (brands) it sounds damn good tbh
CAI is debatable. Intercooler I know nothing about. Only exhaust you should consider is the Borla stage 3 ATAK cat back system. That system sounded really good on my old Ecoboost. Instead of a tune I did the Ford Racing performance package, keeps the factory warranty too. I did a throttle body spacer and while I knew there would be no power gains, there was a noticable increase of almost 0.5 mpg.
I have the same color mustang as you? What level are your tints ??? I’m getting it done in a few days !
Cool. What wheels and tires doe you have?
You won’t lose power with an intake upgrade if you add a tune. If anything you will gain power in upper RPMs.
i guess Im kinda off topic but does anyone know a good place to stream new series online?
@Arian Ares flixportal :P
@Solomon Orion thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :D Appreciate it !
@Arian Ares No problem :D
The throttle body spacer is more for throttle response once you got your ve up... So yes it wouldn't do much on a stock or soft modded car.
Had a throttle bodied put on my 16 eco boost without the tune 3 hp gain with tune accommodated for the new throttle bodied gained 11 hp. That's a huge gain for a simple bolt on. Throttle bodies aren't a horsepower myth they do work.
I added a Vortech intercooler to mine. It's expensive!
Wen your gona place ford racing camshaft for your ecoboost
So number 2 is dont stick with the stock intercooler?
Would the Ariade intake be any good I’m still iffy if I want to buy one cuz I’ve seen and hear people say they lost 10 to 15 horsepower and gained torque
Where do you buy the tunes?
Add the k-brace (if no PP) and strut tower brace first. Better to be able to use the stock power in the corners before you go looking to add even more.
ell witz I would but I don't go fast around corners
How did u do the floating pony ?
Cfab intercooler what I'm going after soon . I got stock air box with airaid tube . Only 2 things for now 🤦♂️
What mods could boost Hp for my eco boost mustang? what mods should you do ?
The Cobb stage 2 and 3 off-the-shelf tunes are only to be used if you have installed the bolt-on upgrades that Cobb indicates are needed for those tunes to be effective. For example, you should only install a stage 3 91 octane tune if you have bolted on a CAI, a turbo-back exhaust, a larger innercooler, and are very running 91 octane fuel. Otherwise, you don't have the hardware to support the upgraded tune and be you're asking for trouble. People who expect a tunner to make big hp and torque gains without the proper bolt-on mods are ignoring the most important part of the equation.
Yeah him bitching about having knock is his stupidity.
What is your exhaust setup
I have a front mount mishimoto Inter cooler, ford performance cold air intake(with calibration), and a mbrp race catback and the difference in power is nuts. Do what you want to your car lol
I would also say the adapter to make your stock bov blow out into atmosphere. Apparently they make your car run super rich. Stay stock or go with a full bov.
not true, you only need a bov if you're running more boost
Plus Ford Mustang Ecoboost use MAP tuning not MAF, meaning the air that is being vented by the blow off valve adapter is not affecting the way the ECU is metering air and fuel
You don’t straight pipe a 4 cylinder
Ben Couyoute well you can if you want to because it’s your car and only your opinion matters.
With a turbo you want the least restrictive exhaust system as possible
I'd recommend a cutout either manual or electric
Correction: You don’t buy a 4 cylinder
@@BloodyWars 🤣👌👏
I don’t understand why not to install a cold air intake¿¿?? Wouldn’t it make it perform better?? How would it lose hp?¿ I’m confused. I really want a cold air intake but I don’t understand why not to get one??
Not all CAI are identical so the sealed units perform like the OEM unit but with more surface area, I use the OEM air box with K&N and Airiaid intake. I would recommend using a direct replacement/street intercooler for anyone who wants to preserve the warranty. Using a Race intercooler will likely void the warranty. I use the street series IC. To kill the exhaust drone on a full Turbo back exahust I had a 12 inch, 2.25 diameter glasspack installed after the catted downpipe connected to the MBRP. Without the glasspack the drone was horrible.
The reason I used the 2.25 diameter glasspack was to allow running the engine safely both tuned and untuned. I use the SCT tuner with the Bama custom tunes but I only run the 91 tune on 93 Octane. Going Pro tune is fine but realize the more aggressive tunes comes with higher risk of failure. Running a mild 91 tune on 93 Octane is best for street use IMO.
What wheels are those
I like this guy cause he's honest . keep it real . so many people just play favorites . keep up the good information
yep, but he seems to have a G. I. Joe haircut ;-)
is anyone know that can i fit mustang gt base 2017 model ream bumper on mustang ecoboost 2017 model
What is your tire/wheel setup?
I agree, I always hear people say the MBRP exhausts are the best because their cheap and have a decent tone, and most cat-backs or straight pipes ecoboosts sound terrible. I put the corsa turbo-back on my car and it is the best sounding in my opinion, it's 3 in diameter and made of stainless steel that won't rust, the only downside is the cost of it.
Lots of great options honestly
Lol around 5:30 it looks like your car was trying to call 911 😂
How possible is a 2JZ swap ?
Did remote start come with the car?
But isn’t it better to have an upgraded inter cooler so you don’t overheat what about an oil cooler or transmission cooler ? After a while it gets hot and sluggish so I feel like it would help out alot
Uh oh ecoboost competition. I'm watchin you *squints eyes*
I'm Joking, glad to see more people helping the Mustang community. Keep up the good work Watch My Eco
3SevenStangVids appreciate it! Even though I traded in my 3.7 I still enjoy your videos man. One of these days I'll catch up to you lol
All those mods are worth it I got a 2020 Premium Ecoboost and my 0-60 is 4.2 Seconds and I am Stage 2 Tuned with Full Bolt Ons
I am also pulling 4.2 sec to 60 with stage 2 tune on my 2021 HPP. Hp-430 trq-450
@@34and0 I’m in a 2022 Bmw m340 running 3.2 from the 0-60 now
Hahaha this kid! 😂 ill just leave this right here...
Video sponsored by Sheriff’s dept. 😂
I heard the Roush CAI is the best thing you can possibly buy and better than everything else
Awesome info thank you!
I put a k&n drop in filter with the stock box and it seemed a lot better over the stock paper filter.
I was thinking on a vortex intercooler as I want a larger turbocharger and a mbrp 3 inch exhaust system what are your thoughts I want the ford motorsport twin cams but I need advice on a tuner like bama or if I get a custom tune there is a shop near me that works on Subaru racing that said they could help me. Your thoughts would be helpful.
Thanks for the honest video
I think the cold air intake makes a big difference in hp and the sound from the engine.
He's an idiot.
CAI doesn't really benefit cars that run based on turbos
Edit: they do but not as much if the factory intake is set up well
It's a hot air intake on any car unless it's completely closed in with that box ,. you get the swoosh sound from the recirculating valve but all the hot air from the engine as well .
That's why they made a box with air that comes in from outside the car you would get more air flow with a drop in filter ...... You can lose tourge as well with these cat back systems if you don't have a tune a car back with out a tune r catless pipes etc is just noise not HP I tried these at the track I lost HP without a tune nd the above listed mods .
RadDadGarage True it would have to be in a sealed box. To keep the hot engine air from getting into intake 🚙💨💨💨
Tri Hardcx Ok thanks 🚙💨💨
In your opinion, what are some of the best sounding exhaust systems (catback) for the ecoboost?
Elliott Haley roush are really nice I have them on mine if you want to spend more than that maybe MBRP but I prefer the sound of Roush and it’s a bit less on your wallet
@@Pepper-Jack I sold the Roush off of mine for the MBRP race. I wanted 3in piping. I hated the tone of my Roush. Way too raspy for my taste. The MBRP offered a better sound and larger diameter pipe for half the price.
How r u getting the turbo wine
So a roush cold air intake won't do anything for my 2021 ecoboost?? I've seen American muscle put them in the cars. Just would like to know if it helps
I have the Roush Cold Air Intake on. my 2021 Ecoboost High Performance Package along with the MAP Street Intercooler and they work very will together, I have seen as low as 2 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference and routinely have a 4 to 6 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. In stop and go traffic I see a 9 to 11 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. So yes the Roush cold air intake does work and it works very well.
I did a throttle body spacer, but purely because I wanted to tap into it to run a boost gauge and not touch factory hoses and risk breaking something
Have u heard of the map performance air intake it’s proven that is better then the stock
I got the access port. Is there is a way to set the rev limit with the access port if so please make a video I've tried and can't get it.
Bear on A unicycle i do not believe so. I have an automatic so it doesn't allow me to change launch control or anything like that. Don't believe rev limiter can be adjusted though
Hey do you work on cars or just yours ?
That stock intercooler looks like the one off the ST
So what about keep the stock air box, but upgrade the intake tube (air raid)?
That's what suggested and get a big mouth
I got roush
So what do we need to get 600hp?
So you wont add a Roush cold air intake 😓? Serious question because I wanted that mod
Hey bro did you get the intake I want one too! Is it worth it?
Definitely worth it. Have one for my eco and have it tuned with Bama. Sounds and performs AMAZING!
Bought it and have my Cobb tune on it I love it, sounds great too!
Yes it's worth it
You guys don’t see a change in performance because you need a tune with those parts
Right got to love ignorance
Adrian Cortez you’re not completely wrong but I’ve been tuning cars for a long time and you’re stock ecu has enough timing and play in the system to change performance without a tune the biggest lie is when people buy cheap cold air intakes expecting power gains! The only ones that hold true are ones that are enclosed and unfortunately really expensive...
after market Intake has been proven in dyno HP increase. Make sure not to get the wrong one. Great vid man.
Flowmaster Outlaw Axle-Back Exhaust with Black Tips with y pipe i think it would be nice. My opinion.
Quick question man. I notice your eco boost doesn’t have a motor cover. Did you take it off or did it not come with one. I just got a 2021 with 101a package and it didn’t have one. But I wanted one.
For some reason they stopped including those
@@madtaste9270no one wanted them. They also allow the heat to soak in the engine and on the upper engine electronics. I took it off as soon as I bought mine. Best decision as cylinder head temps went down about 10f on average. (This was the spring)
@@Boosted_aj trueeeee
Have you tried steeda instead
I don't own a Stang but I do own a 4 cyl chevy baged turbo car with some mods stage 1 class always wanted a mustang 🐎 tho ...I see lots of rivalry here for the 4 banger vs the 5.0 pretty crazy !!!!!
What did you do to your exhaust for it to sound like that ? That’s not straight pipe cause you still have yourb
I believe he said it was catless downpipe / midpipe with resonators so no mufflers ....
These are fair suggestions if your ecoboost is basically stock. I put together a built 2.0 esslinger longbock, stock head/cam, precision turbo, CVF downpipe, CVF Race Intercooler, and fabricated air intake pipe (CPE), MBRP Race exhaust. Car is a little beast now. The combination of these mods and strength of the 2.0 block with forged internals is expensive way to go, but the stock setup went ecoboom. Car was dynoed and only restriction now is fuel pressure dropping out above 6200 rpm. High pressure Pump upgrade is next. One cool thing is I can average 32 MPG on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. Fun cars but build with an upfront plan so your parts all meet the desired goal. ruclips.net/video/dsm-Ox4kjXQ/видео.html
I got the 18 ecoboost with the access port and an intake. I got the 93 stage 1 on the car and it runs great. The car stock comes with s limiter of 120mph. Cobb accessport took it off now the car gets me to 148-150
Also i get huge huge compliments on the sound of my ecoboost. The combo of a muffler/resonator delete and intake with BOV. The bitty soundss great👍🏻👍🏻
I got 2018 oranger fury ecoboost mustang with big turbo and borla ATAK exhaust louder and also 690hp, 60-130mph in 5.5 sec
did you tune the car it being stock or did you modify some things before tuning it?
@@yowatched5900 i had an intake and my exhaust done before i tuned it
Agree with you on the intake part, but also look into Tune+ intake housing thing (don't know the technical name) - only got my Roush cause it ended up being free lol
A good IC in my opinion is Treadstone price and performance wise.
MBRP is pretty decent for the price, and damn your exhaust is maaaad loud lol
Got my TB spacer for the free lmfaoo
Did you just take the cats and muffler off of it?
So its a no go for a cat back on a ecoboost??
I would like to say I enjoy your videos very much you and Alexander Goodrun got some of the best content on the S550 Mustang on RUclips.. Real world scenarios with real world drivers.. I agree somewhat with you on the cold air intakes but if you are tuning they do have the potential to be beneficial . but for the most part they do sound really good when they're installed I don't think the upgrade is necessarily worth it (performance wise).. but in sound-wise definitely worth the investment.. I also watch the video why you got rid of the Cyclone for the EcoBoost. for me it was opposite I had the EcoBoost and got the V6 for the reason the more I upgraded the EcoBoost the more issues I was having but that could have been the due to the heat that we have in the desert climates.. keep up the great videos I enjoy watching them..😃
+dzgtnbz I appreciate it! Me and Alexander may be making a video together soon!
If I leave my eco 100% and take care of it. How many miles would you think I can get out of it?
Many
A million miles
2015-2017 you’ll have minor issues with the vehicle before 120,000 miles. 2018- is the way to go in my opinion. Spend the extra couple hundred bucks to get a better built vehicle. If you don’t rag on it every time you drive it and do all proper maintenance on it, it could go 200,000+ miles trouble free.
What's the list based on?
I put a roush intake it increases response by a little and there is a difference + still wating to get a tune should add around 70hp
We put an MBRP race cat back on a 16 Ecoboost. Less weight than the factory system which is good, but too much drone for me. I would consider the MBRP sport instead.