How to adjust a detent on a framelock knife.
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- The basics of adjusting a lockbar on a framelock to increase or decrease lockbar tension and make a detent stronger or weaker, and a few other minor modifications to my ZT 0452CF.
Wow man always impressed with folks that have your knowledge and can apply it. 👏 thanks for video 📹
Dig the music…and good info; well-done. I was always under the impression that lock stick was the result of steel/Ti interface. With the steel insert being new perhaps the steel/steel contact will wear in over time. Again, thanks for this info! Subbed and 👍!
It can happen with steel inserts too, but for a different reason. It has to do with the lock geometry... Ti on Steel is because soft material against hard material. Its the friction.
Thought this knife was awesome to begin with, but now that it drops shut?
Hell yeah, great tip, thanks man.
Didn't get bored once! Great video brother.
Thanks brother helped alot wss losing my mind for a minute and i don't get stumped often but its like a puzzle once you solve it its easy 😮😅😊
I just picked up a ZT 0609 at my local gun shop at their sidewalk sale for 50% off. I couldn’t pass. But, the lock stick is killing me. And, unfortunately, it didn’t come with the special tool for the pivot. I ordered it from KnifeCenter. This tutorial really saved me from selling the knife off. Thank you.
I hear ya I feel the same about the new Socom bravo,my thumb nail is killing me smalls!!!
Thank you sir. 5 minutes and my Titanium penguin is much easier to deploy now. I couldn't reverse flick It but now its much better.
I was getting serious lock stick on my ZT 0561. I considered sending it back to ZT. I called them and they were great, said send it in and we will get it right back to you. So I figured if they are going to take care of it, why don't I give it a try. I removed the lock bar stop from the frame and removed the lock side of the frame. My 0561 doesn't use an insert, it is just carbonized titanium. On my third attempt adjusting the tension, I nailed it perfect. So I never sent it back and it still functioning beautifully.
Excellent tutorial! Great video 👍
great video brother i really enjoy learning these things..
Thanks Brandon!
Great video, very informative, thanks for sharing !
Great video. Thank God I wasn't watching this in the office. With all the "ball" comments, coworkers would wonder what the heck I was watching 🤣
Just tell em you have the big balls and their little balls don't compare... ;)
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 🤣 🤣 🤣
Handles look good now .
I had a inexpensive Smith and Wesson knife and I used a screwdriver to push over the frame lock. Hey it worked!
I was watching a Nick Shabazz video and he mentioned putting black sharpie on your blade where the locks going to be setting in, then after repeating the process a couple more times the issue should be fixed. I just picked up some ZT knives and am trying the method on my 0562cf.
I never had any luck with graphite or sharpie. Its a temporary fix at best if it does work. Sometimes just a light buffing with 1500 grit sandpaper on both lockfaces will solve it. If its a steel insert oil might solve it, nothing is a guranteed fix though. Somtimes you just gotta experiment with it until you find the right solution. This 0452 barely has any stick now after a few weeks of breaking it in and a dab of oil.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 Can you link me to the little parts tray you're using please
Awesome tutorial! Btw what are those drivers you use?
Sweet as a nut my man excellent viewing for the eyes thank you kindly. It was a really nice relaxing view🫵🏻👍🏼
Most folk seem to hate the amount of writing zt put on the blade ( me included) why don't they listen?
I sand it off but it's a pain trying to keep it lookin nice.
Honestly ZT has bigger problems with not listening to what customers want. They put out like 1 new model per year and they havnt had a smash hit in many years. Its sad because I really do like the company but they just aint trying anymore.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 true, only one I have is the Sinkievich designed one think it's the 454
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 yep zt 0⁴⁵⁴ titanium version. First proper knife I've got, still love it!
Have heard they've changed though.
But some think they make a better hinder xm 18 than Hinderer. Not tried that one though.
Can you recommend any ZTs that are worth looking out for?
You got a favourite?
@@eyesintheskies The one in this video is my favorite ZT. The 0452. Although they need to make another batch of full ti 0452s because the CF kind of kills it. Aside from that the 804cf and 801 series are pretty good...
Thanks - this was a really helpful video, and I subscribed. I have a Hinderer Project X that has a squeaky detent ball. I initially tried KPL Heavy Pivot Lube, and this did not help. I am now using teflon grease, and this has reduced the issue alot. Do you have any suggestions other than just letting it wear in?
Squeeky Detent Ball is always too much lockbar tension. I use Nano Oil 85 weight on detents, I truly believe it is the best knife lube on the planet. If that doesnt stop it, reducing lockbar tension just a little definitely will, but you also gotta pay attention to the other tolerances, make sure it doesnt develop lock rock after adjusting.
Hey what is the name of the knife I really like the look of it
Must the lockbar insert be removed? Looks like you could just bend the frame without having to remove it.
You cannot... Thats why they call it an over travel stop. It prevents the lockbar from bending past the frame thus changing the tension.
Nice!! Where i can order that pocket clip?
I'm only half way through the video but I wonder why you took the detent insert out. It doesn't seem like you did anything that could or couldn't be done if you left it on.
Lockbar insert doubles as over travel stop, when adjusting the lockbar insert if you are increasing tension you push it in, but it is often possible to push it too far (Too much Tension) it then becomes necessary to bend it back out and you cannot do that with the over travel stop in place so it was removed for illustration to show that it needs to be removed to reduce lockbar tension.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm new to this hobby so I appreciate your help.
Awesome information. I just did a bit of finessing with my avispa and it works so much better know after your information.
Would you happen to know if the avispa blade would fit in/on the rat 1?
No idea, same manufacturer, I would compare the blades and go from there if the tangs match up.
I have a 0777 the m390 version. The detent is so weak. I was looking for a 0777 for a while. but I'm so mad about the detent. also, a 0850 weak detent. I didn't think they would fix detent. I'm going to email them right now and see what's up
Well, maybe... Being that the 0777 is a limited edition they sure ain't gonna have any parts for it. but it's possible they might tune it if they can. If they cant or wont help you maybe I can. Get in touch with me on facebook or instagram if you need help with them.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 I would love the help, I wouldn't try to do what you just did. That knife is too rare to try it on. I'm not on Facebook or Instagram. is there another way? I'm a big zt and Kershaw collector. I will see what zt says . thanks for getting back to me
@@slayer7682 This is why RUclips should have a messenger... Definitely don't wanna hang my email out there for the world to see... Are you on any other social media?
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 no social media unless RUclips is considered social media
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 I really do want to get a stronger detent on these knives . So, I would put my email up real fast than take it down, if your down to do that? let me no
Is there a way to weaken the disengage of a framelock...frame lock...this new WE elementum has the most stiff disengagement I've felt
By reducing lockbar tension as I did in the video, the lockbar will be easier to disengage. WE is notorious for super stiff detents but make sure and check that you do not create lock play when you reduce the lockbar tension. WE knives have very tight tolerances and often they do not leave any room to soften the lockbar without getting a little bit of lock play...
Am I crazy to open every knife I buy and adjust the detent so it’s lighter and the blade drops way easier? lol
Kinda yeah...Framelocks have a break in period that takes a week or 2 during which time the lockbar will soften from repeated use, the edge of the detent hole will soften and the detent track will smooth out so you dont know how the action will actually feel until its broken in.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 correct, but they usually don’t break in too much for me. I’m talking mostly about We Knives. Just bought Roxi 3 and just adjusted the detent after 4 days fidgeting like crazy and now it’s awesome when adjusted.
I never adjust anything.
Yeah it's not for everybody. Only for those who want to improve their action and have some basic mechanical aptitude. I've seen people that literally don't know how to turn a screw.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 Well, I don't consider turning a screw to be an "adjustement" - this I do sometimes, it's necessary ...but other than that and sharpening - naaah :)
@@wojciechk50 I'm the opposite... I tune about 98% of the knives I buy. Factories rarely get the detent exactly right, not to mention fixing other quality control issues and flaws.
@@knifeknerdreviews4609 That's true. However I am usually lucky enough not to have any serious issues with my knives apart from a little blade play from time to time which requires only pivot screw tightening. Probably , you would find more issues on my knives which are not problematic for me and I just don't care about them as they don't impact the way I use them. You are just a more tech minded and probably picky customer :)