I've seen many artists, from amateurs to professionals... from ancient artists to modern ones and I confess... I've never seen such virtuosity and realism as you draw... a genius! if it were from the time of Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci... it would be among them in history... Congratulations!
It’s a lot more similar to Caravaggio. And even moreso to 19th century academic painting, none of whom are that famous, probably because there were so many of them.
@@reginaldforthright805 There's nothing of Caravaggio or Moroni in his paintings, just like there's nothing of Michelangelo. Both his method and results are much different - of course in terms of quality he's far away from those masters.
Just a couple of ideas for your viewers - When I was painting tight and detailed like you, some 20 years ago as an illustrator, I used paper towels and realized they were the reason the surface had small (tiny) stuck on textures here and there embedded in the oil. Once I switched to clean towels, cut into 8" squares, the imperfections were no longer there. Towels don't break down into cellular particles, they absorb solvent better and are safer for your skin. (I use a leather glove now to hold the towel) I've had brushes last for years and haven't cleaned them, just dip them lightly into Poppyseed oil and they stay fresh for days. Poppyseed is also good for cleaning and not toxic. When I do clean brushes, after my students leave, I lightly scrub them over rocks in a peach glass filled with Mineral Spirits (which you can get in a metal can, not the plastic jug, at most hardware stores for 1/5th the price of gamsol or whatever else they sell claiming its more refined. Its the same stuff, just marketed as an Art product). After the MS rinse, wipe with a paper towel to absorb the excess then wash with Dawn detergent. Dawn has chemicals that won't hurt the soft hairs (or synthetic) and will get a lot more paint out of the ferrule than hand soap. I don't ruin the brush by forcing it back and forth in my palm, bending the hairs, but rub it one way then turn it and push the other side gently but with some force to squeeze out the deep coloring, usually from processed hues like the phthalos or quinacridones. Which, by the way, are great for adding a touch of richer skin color over duller skin tones from opaque layers. I am not a refined colorist, like yourself, but more of a value painter. Yet the skintones I achieve look very realistic simply by getting close with the first pass, letting it dry, then adding a simple cool glaze for deeper shadows or a sunlight effect using a translucent red or orange, very thin, usually with liquin. My current medium is 1/2 liquin, 1/2 stand oil, so that I get a slight tack, or pull, which makes it a pleasure to blend or just add more strokes that don't get slippery or are too stiff. This dries in a day, or so, with a nice sheen and gives the same viscous quality that Sargent and Boldini had, without using heavy impasto. It also leaves the color rich as if just painted, so the color matching is easy. Great for portraits. Just some suggestions. I like your work and look forward to seeing more. You might mention any galleries or places where, and if, you show. Thanks.
@@waddellwebisodes it’s a pleasure dude, from the videos I can see you really are a genuine person and if you put on the top of it the fact that you are an amazing Artist, I am proud and happy to be a follower of yours!
I am learning so much from you. You really explain things and know what you are talking about. One idea that I use I learned from Mark Carder. If you paint most days, you don't have to clean out your brushes completely from day to day, you can just wipe them off with a rag and then dip them in "brush dip" made up of safflower oil with a 2% dollop of clove oil (I use just a health store brand) mixed in. I keep it in a dedicated jar. After dipping the brushes up to the ferule into the dip, lay them out where they won't drip on anything important and that oil will stay wet for many days. When you start painting again, just wipe off each brush as you pick it up to use it, because you don't want a load of clove oil on your canvas, but a teeny bit (after wiping off) won't hurt.
Here’s little tip which avoids several issues in one go. Use walnut oil instead of solvent to ‘wash’ out a brush between mixes. I do this by having a pot of walnut oil, after wiping the excess paint on a paper towel then dip into the pot of oil. Then massage the oil into the brush by ‘mixing’ either on your palette or a little cup. You don’t want to do this into the large pot of oil as it will quickly turn into mud. Walnut oil is excellent solvent for oil paint. It will quickly get most of the paint out of the brush. After doing that couple of times the brush will ready to make a new mix. This avoids getting excess solvent into your mixes. At the end of a session there is actually no need to wash your brushes at all. Simply clean again with walnut oil and then lay the brushes at a low angle into a a long tub of vegetable (non-drying) oil. Beginning the next session you will need to get the vegetable oil out of the brush as you don’t want that to get into your paint mixtures. Just swill in some OMS and dry on a paper towel. You could use walnut oil for the oil bath too but because it’s a drying oil will eventually clog up the bristles as it oxidises and solidifies. .’ve found I rarely need to wash brushes out with soap and water and I can eliminate solvent amongst completely from the studio and painting process.
the DEGREE of blending depends on the STYLE you want to achieve so people need to back off on "expert advise". A dryer brush is great for blending!!!! Great video! looking forward to more.
Thanks for the video; great tips. I'm like you with the cleaning and mixing: I have "colour family" groupings of brushes on the go. This way I can minimize the solvent based cleaning between pigments and also minimize the "mud mixing." I also have at least two if not three different colour groupings of solvent bottles, such as dark separate from light or even white then light/mid then dark to really keep my colours clean. You're bang on with the importance of really drying things out after using solvent before your next colour; cheap brushes also let you have multiples of the same size to let one dry before you use again, subbing in the clean and dry brush of the same size instead. Again, very helpful video. Cheers!
I've seen people put brushes that just had Cadmiums on them into their mouths to shape them for drying, lol. Great tips, a must watch for beginners. Cheers.
Your style is what I aim for.... (will never get before i kick-off). You are a good teacher, seem uncomplicated and simple. So far l like your attitude. Watching your videos is a real educational treat. Thanks. Keep it up.
Great tips Scott! They are simple and to the point but there have been times where I was exhausted and didn’t clean them properly, to only find out they were ruined. Thanks again for your great tips. Blessings and take care.
submerge them in a bucket or a jar with non drying oil and then the next day you can clean them, old masters did it with a sligthly leveled tray of oil, so the bristles didn't get the wrong shape, of course you can clean them by swirling in that non drying oil and set them aside for soap cleaning the next day, or just dip them in the non drying oil with the paint on them and let them aside for next day's cleaning, of course we don't want non drying oil in our painting.
Thank you for this video! One thing thats helped me with brush maintenance is using a brush restorer and wrapping it in paper towel to keep its shape till the next session.
I even have some watercolour brushes I use for oil painting as I like the feel of them. And like you, Scott, I mainly use round brushes for painting and blending oils. Another important tip is to never overload your brushes with paint beyond halfway up the bristles - once the paint gets into the ferrule and dries the bristles lose shape. I paint a lot of miniature paintings too and most people think that I use teeny tiny single-haired brushes to paint them but not exactly - sometimes I use larger-sized brushes that have a good pointy tip to them to get fine tiny details and textures. I also have several W&N Series 7 and some Rosemary & Co brushes that I don't dare use in case of spoiling them! lol
I do dove soap and then i rub coconut oil into the bristles which i then shape into their proper posture. If it is a brush with a flat shape, like a filbert or an edge or whatever it is, i tend to lay them flat on paper towels in the neat row when they’re still wet and coated with oil, place another sheet of paper towel over the top, and then place a big heavy art book or something that can cover the whole row and press down on the brushes. If the brushes are thick and they’re old and splatted i will put several big art books on top of them. Then i go home. When i return and pull out the brushes, they are perfect! My brushes stay like new for a good long while. But when they start to get splayed i still have lots of work for them. They move from the nice brush can to the messier brush can. And after that to the messy brush can. Then after that to the insane can then to the junk brush can where they do things like stir the gesso and clean my brush cleaning tub.
Thank you for the tips Scott! Could you please send a recommendation of a store where you usually buy brushes and tell the specific brand of synthetic round brushes that you like to use? Thanks!
I’m just thinking of something. When I clean my brushes, I use dishwashing soap. You know how it says “tough on grease”… With oil paints, I find it works a better than regular hand soap. It might make it just faster. I keep a smaller bottle of it that I keep refilling.
Dear virtual Teacher, Thank you for your "Knowledge sharing", A Big Thank you. Can you please tell me why are there stripes on under painting or the sketch, can you please explain about it and how to use it? Is it to navigate the brush strokes? We greatfull to see your works and see that people like you extremely talented exists,... Not kidding.... Enjoy 🎨happy painting 🎨
I'm definitely into blending as apposed to the classic style of oil painting. It always bothers me when I'm watching someone who talks about over blending when it comes to oil painting. I personally prefer the look of blends...
I always use flat brushes and I felt attacked by the thumbnail 👁👄👁 Edit: never tried oil painting but I’ve been watching so many oil painting videos and I’m gonna try it out 😤
TRIGGERED. oh wait no i paint architecture and he mentions it haha. Plus use whatever gives you the correct brushmarks, if you want brushmarks...usually thats flat tbh even on portrait....or just a pallette knife. Synthetic is always best tbh! Except maybe for a soft blending brush?
chào bạn tôi rất ngưỡng mộ bạn bạn có thể cho tôi biết một chút về loại cọ bạn dùng và sơn dầu bạn dùng loại nào được không nhỉ ? . rất cảm kích nếu được kết bạn và học hỏi từ bạn . chúc bạn và gia đình sức khỏe
A bit wordy, my friend. Say it once or repeat in a different way , but more than that wastes all our time and you’ll lose viewers. Otherwise, very concise. Specific examples you are using work well to. Thanks
I've seen many artists, from amateurs to professionals... from ancient artists to modern ones and I confess... I've never seen such virtuosity and realism as you draw... a genius! if it were from the time of Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci... it would be among them in history... Congratulations!
It’s a lot more similar to Caravaggio. And even moreso to 19th century academic painting, none of whom are that famous, probably because there were so many of them.
Leonardo and Michelangelo didn't paint this close to (photo-) realism and not with this method either. Just saying!
In fairness, photography didn't exist as a medium to be compared to, during the High Renaissance.
@@reginaldforthright805 There's nothing of Caravaggio or Moroni in his paintings, just like there's nothing of Michelangelo. Both his method and results are much different - of course in terms of quality he's far away from those masters.
Just a couple of ideas for your viewers - When I was painting tight and detailed like you, some 20 years ago as an illustrator, I used paper towels and realized they were the reason the surface had small (tiny) stuck on textures here and there embedded in the oil. Once I switched to clean towels, cut into 8" squares, the imperfections were no longer there. Towels don't break down into cellular particles, they absorb solvent better and are safer for your skin. (I use a leather glove now to hold the towel)
I've had brushes last for years and haven't cleaned them, just dip them lightly into Poppyseed oil and they stay fresh for days. Poppyseed is also good for cleaning and not toxic. When I do clean brushes, after my students leave, I lightly scrub them over rocks in a peach glass filled with Mineral Spirits (which you can get in a metal can, not the plastic jug, at most hardware stores for 1/5th the price of gamsol or whatever else they sell claiming its more refined. Its the same stuff, just marketed as an Art product). After the MS rinse, wipe with a paper towel to absorb the excess then wash with Dawn detergent. Dawn has chemicals that won't hurt the soft hairs (or synthetic) and will get a lot more paint out of the ferrule than hand soap. I don't ruin the brush by forcing it back and forth in my palm, bending the hairs, but rub it one way then turn it and push the other side gently but with some force to squeeze out the deep coloring, usually from processed hues like the phthalos or quinacridones. Which, by the way, are great for adding a touch of richer skin color over duller skin tones from opaque layers. I am not a refined colorist, like yourself, but more of a value painter. Yet the skintones I achieve look very realistic simply by getting close with the first pass, letting it dry, then adding a simple cool glaze for deeper shadows or a sunlight effect using a translucent red or orange, very thin, usually with liquin. My current medium is 1/2 liquin, 1/2 stand oil, so that I get a slight tack, or pull, which makes it a pleasure to blend or just add more strokes that don't get slippery or are too stiff. This dries in a day, or so, with a nice sheen and gives the same viscous quality that Sargent and Boldini had, without using heavy impasto. It also leaves the color rich as if just painted, so the color matching is easy. Great for portraits.
Just some suggestions. I like your work and look forward to seeing more. You might mention any galleries or places where, and if, you show. Thanks.
Come guys hit the like button!! Scott is someone who Really deserves it!!
Aw thanks Marco!
@@waddellwebisodes it’s a pleasure dude, from the videos I can see you really are a genuine person and if you put on the top of it the fact that you are an amazing Artist, I am proud and happy to be a follower of yours!
I am learning so much from you. You really explain things and know what you are talking about. One idea that I use I learned from Mark Carder. If you paint most days, you don't have to clean out your brushes completely from day to day, you can just wipe them off with a rag and then dip them in "brush dip" made up of safflower oil with a 2% dollop of clove oil (I use just a health store brand) mixed in. I keep it in a dedicated jar. After dipping the brushes up to the ferule into the dip, lay them out where they won't drip on anything important and that oil will stay wet for many days. When you start painting again, just wipe off each brush as you pick it up to use it, because you don't want a load of clove oil on your canvas, but a teeny bit (after wiping off) won't hurt.
Interesting, whats the clove oil for?🌷
Here’s little tip which avoids several issues in one go. Use walnut oil instead of solvent to ‘wash’ out a brush between mixes. I do this by having a pot of walnut oil, after wiping the excess paint on a paper towel then dip into the pot of oil. Then massage the oil into the brush by ‘mixing’ either on your palette or a little cup. You don’t want to do this into the large pot of oil as it will quickly turn into mud. Walnut oil is excellent solvent for oil paint. It will quickly get most of the paint out of the brush. After doing that couple of times the brush will ready to make a new mix. This avoids getting excess solvent into your mixes. At the end of a session there is actually no need to wash your brushes at all. Simply clean again with walnut oil and then lay the brushes at a low angle into a a long tub of vegetable (non-drying) oil. Beginning the next session you will need to get the vegetable oil out of the brush as you don’t want that to get into your paint mixtures. Just swill in some OMS and dry on a paper towel. You could use walnut oil for the oil bath too but because it’s a drying oil will eventually clog up the bristles as it oxidises and solidifies. .’ve found I rarely need to wash brushes out with soap and water and I can eliminate solvent amongst completely from the studio and painting process.
the DEGREE of blending depends on the STYLE you want to achieve so people need to back off on "expert advise". A dryer brush is great for blending!!!! Great video! looking forward to more.
Thanks for the video; great tips. I'm like you with the cleaning and mixing: I have "colour family" groupings of brushes on the go. This way I can minimize the solvent based cleaning between pigments and also minimize the "mud mixing." I also have at least two if not three different colour groupings of solvent bottles, such as dark separate from light or even white then light/mid then dark to really keep my colours clean. You're bang on with the importance of really drying things out after using solvent before your next colour; cheap brushes also let you have multiples of the same size to let one dry before you use again, subbing in the clean and dry brush of the same size instead. Again, very helpful video. Cheers!
several yrs ago.. i purchased all of his videos.. they are tremendous. so worth it. i will check back, i am sure there's more by now
I've seen people put brushes that just had Cadmiums on them into their mouths to shape them for drying, lol. Great tips, a must watch for beginners. Cheers.
Oh no! That's crazy ha! Rule one: don't eat paint!! Thanks for the comment!
You’re the man. Seriously.
Thank you Scott, great video. I agree with the comments; I have never seen portraits that look like yours, truly amazing!
WOW!
You're a generous genius Scott. Thanks for the video.
Your style is what I aim for.... (will never get before i kick-off). You are a good teacher, seem uncomplicated and simple. So far l like your attitude. Watching your videos is a real educational treat. Thanks. Keep it up.
great tips. thanks
Of course! Thanks for the message!
Great Teacher, learned so much from you !
Thanks!!
I discovered you today and I must say you are my favorite since Bouguereau. I've shared your video to friends already.
Great work 👍👍👍
Thanks!!
Great tips, thanks Scott! I've ditched my solvent for a block of pure olive oil soap, cleans brushes brilliantly and no toxins...
Very professional tips!
Thanks!
Yes cheap brushes or brushes on sale! Then I never feel guilty about using the brush thoroughly! 👏
agreed!
Great tips Scott! They are simple and to the point but there have been times where I was exhausted and didn’t clean them properly, to only find out they were ruined. Thanks again for your great tips. Blessings and take care.
submerge them in a bucket or a jar with non drying oil and then the next day you can clean them, old masters did it with a sligthly leveled tray of oil, so the bristles didn't get the wrong shape, of course you can clean them by swirling in that non drying oil and set them aside for soap cleaning the next day, or just dip them in the non drying oil with the paint on them and let them aside for next day's cleaning, of course we don't want non drying oil in our painting.
@@user-lx2tg9zm4q Thanks for those suggestions!
Oh I do the same thing. I still have those days I come back to the studio and see my dried out, crusty brushes from the day before. Argh!
Thank you for this video! One thing thats helped me with brush maintenance is using a brush restorer and wrapping it in paper towel to keep its shape till the next session.
Great tip! I've heard from friends that wrapping it in a paper towel works great. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanx very helpful
Great! masterpiece!! I thought you were a wonderful person. thank you for sharing. I respect you who have learned a lot from your work.
Thanks so much! I appreciate the comment!
I even have some watercolour brushes I use for oil painting as I like the feel of them. And like you, Scott, I mainly use round brushes for painting and blending oils. Another important tip is to never overload your brushes with paint beyond halfway up the bristles - once the paint gets into the ferrule and dries the bristles lose shape. I paint a lot of miniature paintings too and most people think that I use teeny tiny single-haired brushes to paint them but not exactly - sometimes I use larger-sized brushes that have a good pointy tip to them to get fine tiny details and textures. I also have several W&N Series 7 and some Rosemary & Co brushes that I don't dare use in case of spoiling them! lol
Such good advice. These are tips that I never learned in art school. Thank you.
Best advice ever man.....🤝
Very helpful tip bro! Thank you
Of course! Thanks for the comment Helton
Very helpful!
Thanks Anne!
I do dove soap and then i rub coconut oil into the bristles which i then shape into their proper posture. If it is a brush with a flat shape, like a filbert or an edge or whatever it is, i tend to lay them flat on paper towels in the neat row when they’re still wet and coated with oil, place another sheet of paper towel over the top, and then place a big heavy art book or something that can cover the whole row and press down on the brushes. If the brushes are thick and they’re old and splatted i will put several big art books on top of them. Then i go home. When i return and pull out the brushes, they are perfect! My brushes stay like new for a good long while. But when they start to get splayed i still have lots of work for them. They move from the nice brush can to the messier brush can. And after that to the messy brush can. Then after that to the insane can then to the junk brush can where they do things like stir the gesso and clean my brush cleaning tub.
great tips!
Thanks Pedro!
ah your secret is hand soap!
love your videos man, been watching them for years!
Great info , thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Ola que buenos videos q tiene he aprendido de ti algunas cositas me falta practicar mas.pero son excelentss tus videos. Gracias mil gracias
All great tips!! Thank you!
Great video ,thank you.
Very goods tips. Thanks a lot!
Thank you.. really helpful stuff !
Great tips
Thanks!
Thank you for the tips Scott! Could you please send a recommendation of a store where you usually buy brushes and tell the specific brand of synthetic round brushes that you like to use? Thanks!
I really like the Beste brand synthetic rounds on Jerrysartarama. They are pretty great and affordable
Super helpful, thank you.
Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for sharing!!
Useful and informative video!
Thanks
I’m just thinking of something. When I clean my brushes, I use dishwashing soap. You know how it says “tough on grease”… With oil paints, I find it works a better than regular hand soap. It might make it just faster. I keep a smaller bottle of it that I keep refilling.
great advice.
Dear virtual Teacher,
Thank you for your "Knowledge sharing", A Big Thank you.
Can you please tell me why are there stripes on under painting or the sketch, can you please explain about it and how to use it? Is it to navigate the brush strokes? We greatfull to see your works and see that people like you extremely talented exists,... Not kidding.... Enjoy 🎨happy painting 🎨
isnt just soap and water good enough? Do i need to use the solvent?
I'm definitely into blending as apposed to the classic style of oil painting. It always bothers me when I'm watching someone who talks about over blending when it comes to oil painting. I personally prefer the look of blends...
Great !
“Some people like to spit on them and do a little dance around them..”💀 I felt personally attacked.
Thank you for the tips 💛
7:45 we are "Blenders", yeah, no worries 😁👍
Ola el video anterior muy bueno
❤️
6:50
That thumbnail tho 🤣
A ask : about that, how to paint like this or that to achieve realism ? the way to use these type of brush ?
Put in work,study and practice.theres no talent btw Stick with the method u like until You mastered
I always use flat brushes and I felt attacked by the thumbnail 👁👄👁
Edit: never tried oil painting but I’ve been watching so many oil painting videos and I’m gonna try it out 😤
TRIGGERED. oh wait no i paint architecture and he mentions it haha. Plus use whatever gives you the correct brushmarks, if you want brushmarks...usually thats flat tbh even on portrait....or just a pallette knife.
Synthetic is always best tbh! Except maybe for a soft blending brush?
How do mix for skintone..very nice
👍👍👍
👍❤...
How much oil paint do you apply to the brush tip.?
Please include Persian subtitles. Thank you
Do you have a virtual drawing tutorial?💙💙💙✋
Hi, I can't access your patron page. How can I subscribe?
X favor ,con subtítulos....
chào bạn tôi rất ngưỡng mộ bạn
bạn có thể cho tôi biết một chút về loại cọ bạn dùng và sơn dầu bạn dùng loại nào được không nhỉ ? .
rất cảm kích nếu được kết bạn và học hỏi từ bạn .
chúc bạn và gia đình sức khỏe
Anh ấy sử dụng sơn dầu Winsor & Newton
subtitles don't work(((
Best kept secret and bang for buck for brushes?= baby wipes (fragrance free).
Oh interesting, I hadn't heard that one. I'll give it a try
I can't understand because I'm not good at English. I need subtitles
Mi dispiace Manon riesco a capirti non posso seguirti
Hair please
A bit wordy, my friend. Say it once or repeat in a different way , but more than that wastes all our time and you’ll lose viewers. Otherwise, very concise. Specific examples you are using work well to. Thanks