my reel has this issue, I tore it part 10 times and it works for about 5 minutes and ends up going stiff again on the retrieve. it did this out of the box. glad I finally found a video to get this taken care of
Good video 👌. That exact wear is caused by still reeling while the fish is taking line or when drag is working ... Try to only crank reel handle when gaining line , not when loosing line ... 👍
I have two 3500 spinfisher v's for all my inshore fishing. I work these reels very hard when I'm at the coast so if mine start to bind up I'll know what to do. Thanks Dennis!! Enjoyed!
Thank you! I’ve been having this same issue with my V4500. Very frustrating. Although I have not ordered the replacement part I was able to smooth the flat spot and returned it to working much better.
Glad it helped. These go out of round for some reason. I don't think the roller ever makes a full revolution so that may cause the flat spot. Sounds like you found the solution. Thanks for the note - Dennis
I have the 5500 and love it, the only thing I’ve done is upgrade the handle knob to a Gomexus. The bigger knob helps me pull Stripers up with ease and looks more like a slammer. I haven’t opened it up but now I’m going to have to just to regrease and lube it. Thank you Dennis
Dennis, do you remember my 706Z of mine that you serviced? It also had a problem when load was applied to the reel. Turned out the noise was the line roller on the end of the bail. You know I am so used to surf fishing with vintage reels with an anti-reverse switch or lever that I don’t like reels with an always on AR. I like being able to turn the reel in the opposite direction such as wading in the water to cast and then backing out of the water. It allows me to leave the rig where I cast it as I get out of the water if that makes sense. This video goes to show how close the tolerances are on fishing reels. I think it’s great that this problem could never happen on a Luxor No. 3 or my Mer 52. Great video Demi’s. By the way I am still in a lot of pain but haven’t had to go back to the hospital. I think I’m gradually getting better. --- Chris
Good to hear you are recovering. Ditto to the always on A/R - I don't like it either. It is a cheap fix to developing the A/R clutch over-ride. Be well - Dennis
Great job Dennis,well done. Nice to see an unusual problem.....helps me to TRY and remember to inspect parts more closely,if there was a problem. Your instructions, hints and tips,are once again so usefull,thank you. Stay safe and please keep posting. One quick question,would you have any links to get schematics for Okuma reels?I am having trouble finding the schematics for the ones that I have,thanks.
I agree! The older Spinfishers are better. I have seven of them from the first 1961 Spinfisher 700 to my favorite 706Z this particular problem couldn’t happen in one of these older Spinfishers. (Unfortunately other problems can happen but they are easy to fix.)
They were built different, but there are arguments for either. Changes in materials and manufacturing make the comparisons distant cousins. Thanks for watching - Dennis
Had this problem, used the spacers that were included with the reel that go under the spool that are there for this very reason. Under tight drag the spool hits the carriage.
Thanks for explaining the inside to Penn! Unfortunately, mine broke today and I found you here! Disruption of the left main drive and the crank turns! the throttle lever rotates freely!! Can you help me, what can be done? Is this a common problem due to the small/tight thread? (Penn clash 3000) The thread came out of a gear. Is it worth replacing the main gear? I would be grateful for the advice!🤞🙏
If the gear threads were stripped by cross-threading the handle and that is the only damage, then it is worth replacing the main gear. It is not a common problem, but it happens. Thanks for asking Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you very much for the quick reply! The part is expensive (to Europe) and that's why I asked (+30 days for delivery).. It is on the right side, intact, but on the left side the reverse left thread is dead.. Penn produced a very, very small thread. I just cut a strip of plastic as a thread insert and screwed the crank!+Loctite 270 (30Nm-)! RUNS GREAT! Massive (bull) TIP-POP!👌 I will order one anyway and I hope it will last for a long time! Thank you and good health! Greetings from Hungary
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for your concern! Engineer Penn drew a very small cnc thread..I cut a thin strip of plastic so that I could insert the winding arm (A small piece from a soft drink bottle) +1 drop of Loctite on the intact thread of the winding and screwed it into place..I was able to screw it in place tightly. It's holding up great! Until the part arrives, it's great.. An emergency solution can be great! Thanks again! Have a nice day!
good informative vid! I maybe buying two brand new (never used) penn spinfisher V 6500 and an 8500 for fishing from the beach. Just curious on how these hold up and if they are worth it? $280 for the both of them.
Hi, great video and very informative. I have brand new Penn clash CLA4000 ( it’s been used for couple ours in total for lure spinning ). Now, I have noticed since day one some strange behavior- when reeling under load I have a very rhythmic knock/vibration and stutter sound. You can also feel this sound. It is worse the faster you retrieve and if reeling super super slow you can’t really notice it at all. Any idea what to check ( return to shop isn’t an option because it’s bought in Australia and I’m in Europe ) Best regards
It may be a rotational or stroke problem where the reel knocks at a certain position and in the same place every time. That will usually indicate a bent axle shaft or a worn main gear - Hard to say more without seeing or hearing the knock. Also, if the knock is occurring at the bottom of the stroke, then try cranking the reel with the spool removed. If the knock goes away, the fix may be as easy as adding a shim washer on top of the ratchet on the axle shaft - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for reply. It’s strange that reeling without load or very slow reeling with load, clash is smooth and no knocking but under the load ( medium or high cranking speed ) it starts - from middle. After opening side plate and “repositioning” main gear and retightening all visible internal screws, knocking despaired ~90% barely noticeable anymore. Just for the record I have zero experience with maintaining fishing reels - it was first time ever to open one. And second: according to my humble opinion, Penn was cheap with grease, will it hurts if I add little more of it?
I have a spin fisher VI 4500LL with similar problem. Typically used in river with 3-4oz sinker. If I catch even a small perch it is troublesome to reel in. I haven't used in about a year due to this. Do you have any idea what causes this problem?
Dennis do you know if the Battle 2 has that similar design for the crosswind block? Mine acts exactly the same way and I thought maybe it was the shim washers between the main gear and side plate. Could that be caused by the track that the crosswind block rides in?
No, it is not the same - the Battle II has the traditional crosswind block without that bushing. Check to see if you have broken line in the reel or weak drag washers. That may be the cause -Thanks for asking - Dennis
Hey how are you doing I just updated my 4500 v spinfisher to cnc gear and pinion now it’s hard to turn I had it apart many times any ideas and I do have instructions on what I have done
Check the main gear shims. Those are installed at the factory and the original gear may have needed more than the new one that you have installed. If there are too many shims, the main gear will bind and be difficult to turn. That is the first thing I would check - Dennis
It is all about if it is clean and lightly used, in good condition and kept serviced then it is worth it. If it is beat up, needs service, has something broken, etc. then it is not - Dennis
It's worth checking it out with the seller. You don't need Toby it if you don't like what you see or you can negotiate with the seller if repairs need to be made
The elimination of the A/R was the easy way to make a continuous A.R without worrying how to over-ride the clutch. I guess they figured out that most folks did not use the over-ride and voted for the easy option - Thanks for the note - Dennis
my reel has this issue, I tore it part 10 times and it works for about 5 minutes and ends up going stiff again on the retrieve. it did this out of the box. glad I finally found a video to get this taken care of
Glad the video helped. Thanks for the note - Dennis
Thank you Dennis for another great video and sharing your expertise. The diagnostic and repair portion of this video was great.
Glad it was helpful! Just trying to pass on some tips for you to use - Best wishes - Dennis
I have a 4500 with the same problem. Looks like I can fix it now. Thank you!
Glad to hear that this may help - Best wishes on your repair and on fishing - Dennis
Good video 👌. That exact wear is caused by still reeling while the fish is taking line or when drag is working ... Try to only crank reel handle when gaining line , not when loosing line ... 👍
Thanks for the tip
I have two 3500 spinfisher v's for all my inshore fishing. I work these reels very hard when I'm at the coast so if mine start to bind up I'll know what to do. Thanks Dennis!! Enjoyed!
Glad to help. Best wishes for great fishing - Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Another awesome vid Dennis - I have the Spinfisher VI 4500 and they have changed the design on the crosswind block.
Yes - they continue to improve on their designs - Dennis
Thank you! I’ve been having this same issue with my V4500. Very frustrating. Although I have not ordered the replacement part I was able to smooth the flat spot and returned it to working much better.
Glad it helped. These go out of round for some reason. I don't think the roller ever makes a full revolution so that may cause the flat spot. Sounds like you found the solution. Thanks for the note - Dennis
One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen, much obliged for sharing your awesome knowledge and experience on the field.
Thank you for the kind words. Best wishes for great fishing - Dennis
I have the 5500 and love it, the only thing I’ve done is upgrade the handle knob to a Gomexus. The bigger knob helps me pull Stripers up with ease and looks more like a slammer. I haven’t opened it up but now I’m going to have to just to regrease and lube it. Thank you Dennis
Thanks for sharing - best wishes for great striper fishing with your freshly serviced reel - Dennis
Dennis, do you remember my 706Z of mine that you serviced? It also had a problem when load was applied to the reel. Turned out the noise was the line roller on the end of the bail. You know I am so used to surf fishing with vintage reels with an anti-reverse switch or lever that I don’t like reels with an always on AR. I like being able to turn the reel in the opposite direction such as wading in the water to cast and then backing out of the water. It allows me to leave the rig where I cast it as I get out of the water if that makes sense. This video goes to show how close the tolerances are on fishing reels. I think it’s great that this problem could never happen on a Luxor No. 3 or my Mer 52. Great video Demi’s. By the way I am still in a lot of pain but haven’t had to go back to the hospital. I think I’m gradually getting better. --- Chris
Good to hear you are recovering. Ditto to the always on A/R - I don't like it either. It is a cheap fix to developing the A/R clutch over-ride. Be well - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle you are so right!
I always wanted a Spinfisher, just not sure how I feel about today's models. Thanks for the video.
They are still good reels. Every now and then something goes bad. Keep that one on your Christmas wish list - Dennis
Great job Dennis,well done.
Nice to see an unusual problem.....helps me to TRY and remember to inspect parts more closely,if there was a problem.
Your instructions, hints and tips,are once again so usefull,thank you.
Stay safe and please keep posting.
One quick question,would you have any links to get schematics for Okuma reels?I am having trouble finding the schematics for the ones that I have,thanks.
Thanks you for the kind words David. Best wishes - Dennis
Love the channel! Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Thanks for watching! Please stay tuned for more - Dennis
First comment Award......Seems like the older spinfishers were built better.
I agree! The older Spinfishers are better. I have seven of them from the first 1961 Spinfisher 700 to my favorite 706Z this particular problem couldn’t happen in one of these older Spinfishers. (Unfortunately other problems can happen but they are easy to fix.)
They were built different, but there are arguments for either. Changes in materials and manufacturing make the comparisons distant cousins. Thanks for watching - Dennis
Had this problem, used the spacers that were included with the reel that go under the spool that are there for this very reason. Under tight drag the spool hits the carriage.
THanks - yes - the reel can bottom out without the spacers
Enjoyed the video. Thanks Dennis
Glad you enjoyed it. Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Thanks for explaining the inside to Penn! Unfortunately, mine broke today and I found you here! Disruption of the left main drive and the crank turns! the throttle lever rotates freely!! Can you help me, what can be done? Is this a common problem due to the small/tight thread? (Penn clash 3000) The thread came out of a gear. Is it worth replacing the main gear? I would be grateful for the advice!🤞🙏
If the gear threads were stripped by cross-threading the handle and that is the only damage, then it is worth replacing the main gear. It is not a common problem, but it happens. Thanks for asking
Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you very much for the quick reply! The part is expensive (to Europe) and that's why I asked (+30 days for delivery).. It is on the right side, intact, but on the left side the reverse left thread is dead.. Penn produced a very, very small thread. I just cut a strip of plastic as a thread insert and screwed the crank!+Loctite 270 (30Nm-)! RUNS GREAT! Massive (bull) TIP-POP!👌 I will order one anyway and I hope it will last for a long time! Thank you and good health! Greetings from Hungary
Greetings. I hope you did not loctite the handle into the gear. It may never come out! Best wishes - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for your concern! Engineer Penn drew a very small cnc thread..I cut a thin strip of plastic so that I could insert the winding arm (A small piece from a soft drink bottle) +1 drop of Loctite on the intact thread of the winding and screwed it into place..I was able to screw it in place tightly. It's holding up great! Until the part arrives, it's great.. An emergency solution can be great! Thanks again! Have a nice day!
I love the Spinfisher V's
They are well made and durable. Best wishes for great fishing with them - Dennis
Appreciate it brother. Thanks again
Any time! Thanks for watching - Dennis
good informative vid! I maybe buying two brand new (never used) penn spinfisher V 6500 and an 8500 for fishing from the beach. Just curious on how these hold up and if they are worth it? $280 for the both of them.
These hold up very well. Just keep them serviced. $280 is a fair price. Not a great deal, but a deal - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for the response
Great video.what is your favorite generation of the spinfisher..I like the 4500ss with old style anti reverse..red bearing cap..
I like that generation too. I think the current line is nice as well
@@2ndChanceTackle I want try one .. but I got about 20 of the first second and third gens..good problem to have I guess
Hi, great video and very informative.
I have brand new Penn clash CLA4000 ( it’s been used for couple ours in total for lure spinning ).
Now, I have noticed since day one some strange behavior- when reeling under load I have a very rhythmic knock/vibration and stutter sound. You can also feel this sound. It is worse the faster you retrieve and if reeling super super slow you can’t really notice it at all.
Any idea what to check ( return to shop isn’t an option because it’s bought in Australia and I’m in Europe )
Best regards
It may be a rotational or stroke problem where the reel knocks at a certain position and in the same place every time. That will usually indicate a bent axle shaft or a worn main gear - Hard to say more without seeing or hearing the knock. Also, if the knock is occurring at the bottom of the stroke, then try cranking the reel with the spool removed. If the knock goes away, the fix may be as easy as adding a shim washer on top of the ratchet on the axle shaft - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you for reply.
It’s strange that reeling without load or very slow reeling with load, clash is smooth and no knocking but under the load ( medium or high cranking speed ) it starts - from middle.
After opening side plate and “repositioning” main gear and retightening all visible internal screws, knocking despaired ~90% barely noticeable anymore.
Just for the record I have zero experience with maintaining fishing reels - it was first time ever to open one.
And second: according to my humble opinion, Penn was cheap with grease, will it hurts if I add little more of it?
I have a spin fisher VI 4500LL with similar problem. Typically used in river with 3-4oz sinker. If I catch even a small perch it is troublesome to reel in. I haven't used in about a year due to this. Do you have any idea what causes this problem?
My first guess is a bent axle shaft. You need to take the reel apart and "see" what is going on - Dennis
What is the name of the part you changed the name of and where did you buy it. Thanks sir
It is the crosswind block bushing and is available through mysticparts.com
Dennis do you know if the Battle 2 has that similar design for the crosswind block? Mine acts exactly the same way and I thought maybe it was the shim washers between the main gear and side plate. Could that be caused by the track that the crosswind block rides in?
No, it is not the same - the Battle II has the traditional crosswind block without that bushing. Check to see if you have broken line in the reel or weak drag washers. That may be the cause -Thanks for asking - Dennis
✌️😎👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🇵🇹
Thanks! Dennis
Thanx uncle Danny 😉
You are welcome
Hey how are you doing I just updated my 4500 v spinfisher to cnc gear and pinion now it’s hard to turn I had it apart many times any ideas and I do have instructions on what I have done
Check the main gear shims. Those are installed at the factory and the original gear may have needed more than the new one that you have installed. If there are too many shims, the main gear will bind and be difficult to turn. That is the first thing I would check - Dennis
Well friend you can take the little bushing and order a barring for this
Thanks for the additional information - Dennis
Is this a good reel
Yes - the SpinFisher V series and the following VI series are good, solid and dependable reels - Dennis
Is it worth $100
It is all about if it is clean and lightly used, in good condition and kept serviced then it is worth it. If it is beat up, needs service, has something broken, etc. then it is not - Dennis
The reel appears to look good I found it on craigslist though I haven’t bought it yet
It's worth checking it out with the seller. You don't need Toby it if you don't like what you see or you can negotiate with the seller if repairs need to be made
You know the world has really gone cheap when a company like Penn starts making reels with no anti reverse release.
The elimination of the A/R was the easy way to make a continuous A.R without worrying how to over-ride the clutch. I guess they figured out that most folks did not use the over-ride and voted for the easy option - Thanks for the note - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle I'd like to have a Luxor Salmon Mer like the one you worked on the other day. I could see myself fishing with one of those.