Well done. Btw. your spotmeter metering is exactly what already Ansel Adams described for analog photography in his Zone System. Many people doubt it can be used for digital but it works! I do have one question: You did ColorChecker shots in the shadow and in the sunlight. Later at your PC you didn't show how to make use of both calibrations but you "cooled down" the tones in front manually. How do both ColorChecker profiles come into play? I know 2 ColorChecker pictures can be loaded into the Passport Software at once to get a mixed light DNG profile. What's the difference to your approach? Generally as you showed with your camera after calibration, especially blue pops out much more. Interestingly it is the same with my Pansonic Lumix MFT camera and my Epson flatbed scanner I used ColorCheck for as well: Blue gets more intense after calibration. It seems to be that this "blue issue" is not only related to one brand of digital hardware. Because all hardware comes from Japan, could it be related to culture how to see colors? It's strange somehow.....
Hey Joe great video,at 7:00 minutes in you suggest watching two videos if the 758Dr is new to you,well it is fresh out of the box,what I'm asking is can you put the links up for the two videos thanks,Dan
For Cameras that have more sensitive Mirrorless Sensors (Such as the Sony A7sii and A7iii) which Light Meters do you recommend for Cinema? Also is the Sekonic L-358 still usable with Digital Cameras? If so, what ISO range can it still be used at?
Hi Musique Decor Designs For basic cinematography, we recommend the L-308X-U, but for more advanced functions we recommend the L-478D-U or the flagship L-858D-U. The L-358 only has an iso range of 3 to 8000 while the L-308X-U has a range from 3 to 8000, the L-478D-U has a range from 3 to 409,600, the L-858D-U has a range from 3 to 13,107,200. Here is a link to the comparison tool on our website www.sekonic.com/compare
Joe, According to XRite documentation they recommend you first do a white balance in LR then create profile. You are doing it opposite to what xrite says to do
Depends on the dynamics of your camera. In the monitor it shows jpgs, limited to 9-10 stops. With older models, RAW dynamics was quite the same. With modern cameras RAW dynamics is much higher 12....14+ stops.
To times the exposure when using DN filters download the Lee Stopper app. It's brilliant and so quick to do the calculation for x6 and x10 stops. You can't beat Lee's filter system ! Robert
Danvil for profiling, one isn't better than the other in my experience ( I have both), but the Xrite has dual use in the is case... color check and white balannce
Love your tutorials ! Just one objection...you need to get yourself smaller "paws" so you don't have to grab the color checker by it's sensitive parts...(just kidding)
That is an amazing tutorial. Gives me a totally different perspective on understanding exposure and colour. Thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Well done. Btw. your spotmeter metering is exactly what already Ansel Adams described for analog photography in his Zone System.
Many people doubt it can be used for digital but it works!
I do have one question:
You did ColorChecker shots in the shadow and in the sunlight. Later at your PC you didn't show how to make use of both calibrations but you "cooled down" the tones in front manually. How do both ColorChecker profiles come into play?
I know 2 ColorChecker pictures can be loaded into the Passport Software at once to get a mixed light DNG profile.
What's the difference to your approach?
Generally as you showed with your camera after calibration, especially blue pops out much more. Interestingly it is the same with my Pansonic Lumix MFT camera and my Epson flatbed scanner I used ColorCheck for as well: Blue gets more intense after calibration.
It seems to be that this "blue issue" is not only related to one brand of digital hardware. Because all hardware comes from Japan, could it be related to culture how to see colors? It's strange somehow.....
Geez…did you skip the part oneeding3 stops for the bridge?😊
Hey Joe great video,at 7:00 minutes in you suggest watching two videos if the 758Dr is new to you,well it is fresh out of the box,what I'm asking is can you put the links up for the two videos thanks,Dan
Nice video I wonder how it works with Infrared film photography
question, why you push the water exposure by 3 stop, not other number.
For Cameras that have more sensitive Mirrorless Sensors (Such as the Sony A7sii and A7iii) which Light Meters do you recommend for Cinema? Also is the Sekonic L-358 still usable with Digital Cameras? If so, what ISO range can it still be used at?
Hi Musique Decor Designs
For basic cinematography, we recommend the L-308X-U, but for more advanced functions we recommend the L-478D-U or the flagship L-858D-U. The L-358 only has an iso range of 3 to 8000 while the L-308X-U has a range from 3 to 8000, the L-478D-U has a range from 3 to 409,600, the L-858D-U has a range from 3 to 13,107,200. Here is a link to the comparison tool on our website www.sekonic.com/compare
Joe,
According to XRite documentation they recommend you first do a white balance in LR then create profile. You are doing it opposite to what xrite says to do
so just watching the histogram on the back of your camera would do the same thing? I can see this for film but digital I don't see the benefits.
Depends on the dynamics of your camera. In the monitor it shows jpgs, limited to 9-10 stops. With older models, RAW dynamics was quite the same. With modern cameras RAW dynamics is much higher 12....14+ stops.
Hi woulid like to know how you got the 1024 figure from?
2 to the power of 10. (10 being the stop value of the filter)
2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2x2 =1024
Geez…did you skip the part oneeding3 stops for the bridge?
To times the exposure when using DN filters download the Lee Stopper app. It's brilliant and so quick to do the calculation for x6 and x10 stops. You can't beat Lee's filter system !
Robert
Why would I want the X-Rite over the Sekonic II target?
Danvil for profiling, one isn't better than the other in my experience ( I have both), but the Xrite has dual use in the is case... color check and white balannce
Or just divide shutter speed by 8 to get 3 stops more exposure.
Love your tutorials ! Just one objection...you need to get yourself smaller "paws" so you don't have to grab the color checker by it's sensitive parts...(just kidding)
Kinda like taking a course : “Tax Lawyer.”
Hi Joe, Long story la🤭😴😴🤤😵
so, after using a top class lightmeter and color checker, u still adjust the highlights and shadows in post? damn, thats a waste of time and money
+Petru Le Grand its a raw image.