It appears you have a leaky rear seal by the driveshaft, or the rear drive. see if oil leaks from the rubber boot when you loosen the clamp and pull it back. These R1100+R1150 bikes are excellent bikes. I ride mine often. But they are very particular to work on. Easy to work on, but time consuming when you do it right. Be careful to grease the splines with only the proper grease. Especially with the 6 speed R1150R bikes. Watch Chris Harris videos on the R1100RT and R1150RT.
You remove the back seat with your key. Look at 6:49 to 7:00 between the back light and your number plate. Removing the seat is a mater of seconds without removing any screws.
Did this job a few years ago now and the results were worth the effort. Just make sure you take your time an double check each step. You may want to look at fitting the clutch plate spacer mod which allows all of the splines full length to engage. See advrider forum.
seeing all the corrosion and grime on this unit.. i would be forced to blow it all apart and de-grease and bead blast all that corrosion off and put her back together clean.. heck, i'd probably address the rust on the frame and paint it too.. i just couldn't leave her in that condition.. that's just me... i never leave well enough alone.. lol..
I have done this work twice. Last time was on my BMW R1100RT. Few differences between those bikes. I wouldn't use a power ratchet on these bikes. Too much factory loctite and aluminum. The threads can strip very easily. You should be heating the swingarm pins before disassembly. Watch this video before going further. You are potentially making some fatal errors. There is far too much to tell you. This video covers everything you need to know. You will be very glad you watched it! Did you order a new clutch yet? The advice on getting an aftermarket clutch is sound. Also drain your gear oil and look for shavings. Transmissions are a weak point on these bikes. They are clunky (you get used to it, and better at shifting over time). Bottom line, I love ,my BMW R1100RT, and will never part with it until it is completely worn out. I have 114,000km on mine and it runs great. I know these bikes well. Any questions, I am happy to help. ruclips.net/video/6gzR4WHD-94/видео.htmlsi=oW6owT0q6628Z4wY
Its not bad hell i have done it 3 times now including a complete motor change did the spine in the trans too new lifters 1200 Injectors an a y pipe on my 1150gs now supermoto
these clutches last forever when the bike is ridden correctly.. you can't slip the dry clutch like you can a wet one.. just dump and go.. will last forever.. well.. almost.. if the splines last.. lol.. lube them well.. this bike is daunting to work on at first.. but once you get the hang of it.. it's really not that bad.. the germans know how to engineer..
Total BS. When the clutch shaft o-ring leaks oil on the dry clutch plate, you get clutch slip. This has absolutely nothing to do with over heating the clutch due to slipping it. 99% of clutch jobs on BMW motos are due to oil contamination, not abuse of the clutch plate.
@@1wheeldrive751 Oil resistant clutch friction plates are one of the solutions for that. Another is to drill a weep hole in the lower lip of the recess that the clutch slave sits in .. I did that on mine when it was apart.
@ - yes, I didn’t see those clutch plates until after I did the repair. But I’m thinking if your main seal or the clutch o-ring is leaking, you’ll probably want to fix that even though the disk might not be ok. I put a stock new disk in mine along with the viton o-ring and a new rear main seal, though the seal wasn’t actually leaking at all, just the original o-ring. I also cut a groove in the mounting surface of the clutch slave and ditched the gasket, rather than drilling the hole in the transmission casting. That way if I wanted to go back to stock configuration a new slave and gasket would do that.
@@1wheeldrive751 Don't laugh, but a friend of mine did an emergency repair while I was on the road, just so I could get home. He replaced the leaking clutch slave seal with an O-ring of the right size, then tested it to above 100psi pressure. It held nicely. It's still in there. I'm watching the clutch reservoir regularly for signs of the O ring beginning to fail. At least if it leaks now it shouldn't do much harm. A friend of mine (1150RT owner) told me to understand that BMW uses fairly low grade OEM parts, and that I should replace things with aftermarket upgraded parts. Hence the oil resistant clutch friction disc and other things.
I had a BMW K 1200 LT in 2010. I stopped in to see a mechanic are used to work with when I was a Honda motorcycle salesman. He was now a mechanic at this BMW shop. he had a K 1200 LT just like mine on his lift with the trunk, bags, brackets, exhaust, seat, part of the frame, rear wheel, final drive, swingarm, driveshaft, and transmission removed. I asked him, what is up with this when I stopped back in his service department area. He said the slave cylinder leaked because the guy never changed his clutch fluid, and it leaked on the clutch. so it needs a clutch no, this was in 2010. I asked him what is this gonna cost the owner he said around $4500 including parts .. plus Shop materials, plus disposal fee, plus tax that was 14 years ago. I am guessing that that job now as well over $6000-$7000
Bit of a monster job for a clutch replacement. Good work as always Jay. It’s pretty grubby in all the nooks and crannies too, you could spend hours and hours on that!
Thanks mate, hopefully there won't be a load of bolts left over after I finish lol. This is another that could have just been scrapped, guess I'm a sucker for a challenge 👍
Replace the clutch to one of those machines it´s a pain in the ass, but not the worst case scenario. And think about a K1200LT, a Goldwing, PanEuropean... it can be even worst LOL
Its not "hard" I wouldnt say , its just removing bolts and putting them back init ,so , its just a pain in the ass to be honest . I`m on my 5th 1150RT and I have had to do the clutch on 3 of them , lol . Glutten for punishment ..lol
Do wonder why they do make things like this so inaccessible, I believe they went for a wet clutch in later models? Bet each time you've done a clutch, it's gotten quicker. Practice makes perfect 👍
STOP!!! You need 2 M8x100mm Hex Bolts. Can be threaded the whole way. Cut the bolts heads off them. You remove only two transmission bolts and put those two guide bolts in specific places. The transmission slides back on those two guide bolts. It prevents bending the push rod, and other damage. Watch the video that I previously posted. You are skipping important steps.
Thanks for taking the time Dan to comment unfortunately in the next video you see why just moving the transmission back wouldn't have worked. You could be right around the rear seal and I will investigate more. Might not have done this tha same way as others but it all turns out okay, stay safe 👍
That's good! Yeah, the transmission needs to be completely removed to service the clutch. I had to replace the transmission on my bike. They are very nice bikes, and worth the work. I hope you greased all the splines with the proper grease. If you ever remove the swingarm to service the spline at 40,000km intervals, take the time to remove all the loctite from the swingarm pins. I have been riding my R1100RT for two years,.and I like it more all the time. They aren't like Harley Davidsons, they like to be kept above 3,000rpm. Looking forward to seeing your bike completed.
It appears you have a leaky rear seal by the driveshaft, or the rear drive. see if oil leaks from the rubber boot when you loosen the clamp and pull it back. These R1100+R1150 bikes are excellent bikes. I ride mine often. But they are very particular to work on. Easy to work on, but time consuming when you do it right. Be careful to grease the splines with only the proper grease. Especially with the 6 speed R1150R bikes. Watch Chris Harris videos on the R1100RT and R1150RT.
You remove the back seat with your key. Look at 6:49 to 7:00 between the back light and your number plate. Removing the seat is a mater of seconds without removing any screws.
@@ThoralfHooghoff hi, thanks for watching. Unfortunately I didn't get a key with the bike.
@@vroomroom1 Ok. I see... That´s kind of a problem 😅
Did this job a few years ago now and the results were worth the effort. Just make sure you take your time an double check each step. You may want to look at fitting the clutch plate spacer mod which allows all of the splines full length to engage. See advrider forum.
That sounds like a great modification. Wish I'd known this was a thing before finishing the job ☹️
seeing all the corrosion and grime on this unit.. i would be forced to blow it all apart and de-grease and bead blast all that corrosion off and put her back together clean.. heck, i'd probably address the rust on the frame and paint it too.. i just couldn't leave her in that condition.. that's just me... i never leave well enough alone.. lol..
@@texastyrannyresponseteam794 no such thing as OCD on a bike, if it was a bike I was going to keep, I would have striped it right back 👍
I have done this work twice. Last time was on my BMW R1100RT. Few differences between those bikes. I wouldn't use a power ratchet on these bikes. Too much factory loctite and aluminum. The threads can strip very easily. You should be heating the swingarm pins before disassembly.
Watch this video before going further. You are potentially making some fatal errors. There is far too much to tell you. This video covers everything you need to know. You will be very glad you watched it! Did you order a new clutch yet? The advice on getting an aftermarket clutch is sound. Also drain your gear oil and look for shavings. Transmissions are a weak point on these bikes. They are clunky (you get used to it, and better at shifting over time). Bottom line, I love ,my BMW R1100RT, and will never part with it until it is completely worn out. I have 114,000km on mine and it runs great. I know these bikes well. Any questions, I am happy to help.
ruclips.net/video/6gzR4WHD-94/видео.htmlsi=oW6owT0q6628Z4wY
What a mission - and no swearing 🤣 Great work
lol, thanks Peter
Excellent video, very enlightening. Out of interest, i wonder how much a main dealer would charge for this work. I bet it's a lot.
@@Jsixseven I have no idea but would think it would be a good few quid, but as they are trained by BMW it would take them considerably less time. 👍
I'm watching!!!..............And I don't even have a BMW!....Great job. Cheers from the USA.
Thanks Dave, Im beginning to wish I didn't have one either🤣
Its not bad hell i have done it 3 times now including a complete motor change did the spine in the trans too new lifters 1200 Injectors an a y pipe on my 1150gs now supermoto
@@davidhickman9577 3 times😲, respect my friend. 👍
these clutches last forever when the bike is ridden correctly.. you can't slip the dry clutch like you can a wet one.. just dump and go.. will last forever.. well.. almost.. if the splines last.. lol.. lube them well.. this bike is daunting to work on at first.. but once you get the hang of it.. it's really not that bad.. the germans know how to engineer..
Total BS. When the clutch shaft o-ring leaks oil on the dry clutch plate, you get clutch slip. This has absolutely nothing to do with over heating the clutch due to slipping it. 99% of clutch jobs on BMW motos are due to oil contamination, not abuse of the clutch plate.
@@1wheeldrive751 didn't say anything about slipping.. but they will wear out quicker if you slip them like a wet clutch..
@@1wheeldrive751 Oil resistant clutch friction plates are one of the solutions for that. Another is to drill a weep hole in the lower lip of the recess that the clutch slave sits in .. I did that on mine when it was apart.
@ - yes, I didn’t see those clutch plates until after I did the repair. But I’m thinking if your main seal or the clutch o-ring is leaking, you’ll probably want to fix that even though the disk might not be ok.
I put a stock new disk in mine along with the viton o-ring and a new rear main seal, though the seal wasn’t actually leaking at all, just the original o-ring. I also cut a groove in the mounting surface of the clutch slave and ditched the gasket, rather than drilling the hole in the transmission casting. That way if I wanted to go back to stock configuration a new slave and gasket would do that.
@@1wheeldrive751 Don't laugh, but a friend of mine did an emergency repair while I was on the road, just so I could get home. He replaced the leaking clutch slave seal with an O-ring of the right size, then tested it to above 100psi pressure. It held nicely. It's still in there. I'm watching the clutch reservoir regularly for signs of the O ring beginning to fail. At least if it leaks now it shouldn't do much harm.
A friend of mine (1150RT owner) told me to understand that BMW uses fairly low grade OEM parts, and that I should replace things with aftermarket upgraded parts. Hence the oil resistant clutch friction disc and other things.
I had a BMW K 1200 LT in 2010. I stopped in to see a mechanic are used to work with when I was a Honda motorcycle salesman. He was now a mechanic at this BMW shop.
he had a K 1200 LT just like mine on his lift with the trunk, bags, brackets, exhaust, seat, part of the frame, rear wheel, final drive, swingarm, driveshaft, and transmission removed. I asked him, what is up with this when I stopped back in his service department area. He said the slave cylinder leaked because the guy never changed his clutch fluid, and it leaked on the clutch. so it needs a clutch
no, this was in 2010. I asked him what is this gonna cost the owner
he said around $4500 including parts .. plus Shop materials, plus disposal fee, plus tax
that was 14 years ago. I am guessing that that job now as well over $6000-$7000
thats crazy money, the cost of work like this will impact peoples motivation to keep these bikes on the road.
If it's not too late, how about removing the lock barrel itself? Have a look on RUclips on how to do this.
Did find a workaround which removed the bottom of the barrel without have to get those snap bolts out. Thanks for the advice and watching 👍
Bit of a monster job for a clutch replacement. Good work as always Jay. It’s pretty grubby in all the nooks and crannies too, you could spend hours and hours on that!
Thanks mate, hopefully there won't be a load of bolts left over after I finish lol. This is another that could have just been scrapped, guess I'm a sucker for a challenge 👍
@@vroomroom1ha ha good for you. It looks well worth saving, not in a terrible state, just dirty.
Now I no why I saw a BMW with "needs a new clutch" for cheap...lol.
Replace the clutch to one of those machines it´s a pain in the ass, but not the worst case scenario. And think about a K1200LT, a Goldwing, PanEuropean... it can be even worst LOL
@@asturiancetorix2552 damn, don't want to think of another bike that's worse lol. Thanks for watching 👍
What, the Pan Euro?...not even close to this nonsense...
Its not "hard" I wouldnt say , its just removing bolts and putting them back init ,so , its just a pain in the ass to be honest . I`m on my 5th 1150RT and I have had to do the clutch on 3 of them , lol . Glutten for punishment ..lol
Do wonder why they do make things like this so inaccessible, I believe they went for a wet clutch in later models? Bet each time you've done a clutch, it's gotten quicker. Practice makes perfect 👍
STOP!!! You need 2 M8x100mm Hex Bolts. Can be threaded the whole way. Cut the bolts heads off them. You remove only two transmission bolts and put those two guide bolts in specific places. The transmission slides back on those two guide bolts. It prevents bending the push rod, and other damage. Watch the video that I previously posted. You are skipping important steps.
Thanks for taking the time Dan to comment unfortunately in the next video you see why just moving the transmission back wouldn't have worked. You could be right around the rear seal and I will investigate more. Might not have done this tha same way as others but it all turns out okay, stay safe 👍
That's good! Yeah, the transmission needs to be completely removed to service the clutch. I had to replace the transmission on my bike. They are very nice bikes, and worth the work. I hope you greased all the splines with the proper grease. If you ever remove the swingarm to service the spline at 40,000km intervals, take the time to remove all the loctite from the swingarm pins. I have been riding my R1100RT for two years,.and I like it more all the time. They aren't like Harley Davidsons, they like to be kept above 3,000rpm. Looking forward to seeing your bike completed.
@@danpos1971 thanks Dan, I have the correct grease, made that mistake many years ago caused loads of problems further down the line.
where is you key?! That is how you remove the seat
Iam watching and ride a st1300 😂
HS, I could change the clutch on me ole' ZX10 in a half hour...oy vie...