Hi Brownie, This is meant well, but not complete. Your chain seems too tight now (as Lasdosmoto said). Luckily your chain was within spec after putting the bike on its wheels, but it could have easily gone a different way. Drive shaft bearings are easily ruined by a quick -on the fly- chain adjustment. The forces applied to this bearing are enormous by a too tight drive chain. Hope you're open for some constructive feedback. To my knowledge you should rotate the chain first to find the spot where the slack is the smallest. Chains and sprockets usually don't wear even. Then put the bike on the side stand en measure the slack. Then adjust and repeat until it is within spec. It can be tedious, but it is important. Because a tiny turn on the adjusters have great effect on the slack. Finally it is good advise to lock the wheel nut pushing forward. Pushing it into the adjusters. Or even better; also tighten the chain by pushing gently it down e.g. with your foot, while locking the wheel nut. (instead of pulling backwards also pulling the wheel backwards and tightening the chain out of spec). And do a safety re-check of the slack when everything is locked, tightened and ready. Cheers and Thank you for the vids. I enjoy them!
According to owners manual for this bike, the chain slag must be measured on the side stand, not center stand. The bike sag a bit in the suspension while leaning on the side stand. Otherwise great video.
Thanks for the video, Nice tips with the fingers. I think that’s the reason why BMW telling you to adjust the chain with the bike on the side stand may be because the center stand isn’t standard equipment.
Thanks mate 😎👍 True, could be (re centre stand). As far as I can tell the chain adjustment slack is the ssme either way, I don't notice any difference between chain slackness on either stand.
Thanks for sharing but the tension is way too high after the rear axle was locked again. You can clearly see how the tension changes while locking the rear axle (5:38). Too high tension will unnecessarily wear the bearings from the primary drive shaft. So better adjust to less tension before locking.
I find my chain always tensions more as I tighten the axel nut so recheck the tension once everything is tight.
Yeah... The same thing use to happen to me all the time on my old DRZ400 but on the F800 it seems to stay as set.... Mysteries of the universe 😎👍
I got the same problem with my 650 gs
Hello mate
Thanks for your video helped me on my way coming back from Senegal in Western Sahara.
Awesome, glad it helped.... you sounds like it would have been epic
Hi Brownie,
This is meant well, but not complete. Your chain seems too tight now (as Lasdosmoto said). Luckily your chain was within spec after putting the bike on its wheels, but it could have easily gone a different way. Drive shaft bearings are easily ruined by a quick -on the fly- chain adjustment. The forces applied to this bearing are enormous by a too tight drive chain.
Hope you're open for some constructive feedback.
To my knowledge you should rotate the chain first to find the spot where the slack is the smallest. Chains and sprockets usually don't wear even.
Then put the bike on the side stand en measure the slack. Then adjust and repeat until it is within spec. It can be tedious, but it is important. Because a tiny turn on the adjusters have great effect on the slack.
Finally it is good advise to lock the wheel nut pushing forward. Pushing it into the adjusters. Or even better; also tighten the chain by pushing gently it down e.g. with your foot, while locking the wheel nut. (instead of pulling backwards also pulling the wheel backwards and tightening the chain out of spec).
And do a safety re-check of the slack when everything is locked, tightened and ready.
Cheers and Thank you for the vids. I enjoy them!
Spot on. I also adjust chain on side stand and bounce the rear end to settle the bike.
Not just a professional photographer, but a well equipped mechanic as well. 👋
Thinks WL... jack of all trades, master of none 😎👍
According to owners manual for this bike, the chain slag must be measured on the side stand, not center stand. The bike sag a bit in the suspension while leaning on the side stand. Otherwise great video.
Thanks for the video, Nice tips with the fingers. I think that’s the reason why BMW telling you to adjust the chain with the bike on the side stand may be because the center stand isn’t standard equipment.
Thanks mate 😎👍
True, could be (re centre stand). As far as I can tell the chain adjustment slack is the ssme either way, I don't notice any difference between chain slackness on either stand.
I think it’s the same on my 750gs. No difference on the chain tension between side stand and center stand.
Thanks for sharing but the tension is way too high after the rear axle was locked again. You can clearly see how the tension changes while locking the rear axle (5:38). Too high tension will unnecessarily wear the bearings from the primary drive shaft. So better adjust to less tension before locking.
Hi mate, thanks for the feedback 🤠👍
However, after the bike comes off the stand (and is weighted) the chain tension is Mickey Mouse textbook spot on.
Nice chain guard. Which brand is that?
Cool trick. I learned something new 👍
Thanks Pam.... an old fella showed me that trick about 30 years ago... 😎👍
thanks for the grat tutorial
Thanks to watching mate 🤠👍
Good on ya mate! 👍
Thank you
Hello, I'm curious about the size of the 800gs chain.
Which one should I buy?
Not too sure what size it is... I had to take a few links out when I bought it... it an RK Chain 😎👍
525/116
top !!!
Worst chain build ever. Very noisy and slaps on every bump even when tighten right at the right free olayy