Good insight man I never even knew this existed, I brought the tru tension one a while ago and it seemed just like gimmick, it was too Fiddly and loose, but this is definitely one worth having
Helpful video, thanks. I've just ordered the magnetic version. Seems expensive for what it is, but I don't trust my swingarm markings and want as close to 100% accuracy as possible.
@@Turborider thanks for your comment. Older models have had mechanical switches. They are prone to dirt ingress so are a potential point of failure. This system is a simple screw so no small parts to fail 👍
I already have one of these and it works absolutely amazing. Now when I read online on different forums people are saying that the chain alignment isn’t the same as rear wheel alignment?? Isn’t chain alignment the same as rear wheel alignment?
Thanks for your question. Front and rear sprockets are designed to be in line. Wheels are sometimes not in line, they may be offset. You will find this on some bikes, particularly shaft drive. Some chain drive bikes are also offset by manufacturer for whatever reason that only they can confirm. Wheel alignment is not always 1 wheel directly behind the other. We have seen cases where there may be a 10mm or more offset. If all other geometry ad frame condition is correct, correct chain alignment will by default ensure correct wheel alignment.
Thank you for your question. The laser in this tool is perfectly machined to be in line with the flat surface of the tool which is held against your rear sprocket. Accurate to 0.05%, (0.5mm over 1m)
You are using the L-CAT version, which is a line laser. Profi Products also offer a D-CAT version, which is a dot laser. Have you ever used the dot laser version?
Just purchased this lazer line and it's excellent, didn't realise how far out my chain was. A must have tool for every biker.
Not for Kardan drivers
Was your chain lined up using the swingarm marks previously?
@@sebgp9102 yes both marks were lined up on the swing arm but the chain was still out of line
Good insight man I never even knew this existed, I brought the tru tension one a while ago and it seemed just like gimmick, it was too Fiddly and loose, but this is definitely one worth having
Helpful video, thanks. I've just ordered the magnetic version. Seems expensive for what it is, but I don't trust my swingarm markings and want as close to 100% accuracy as possible.
Having seen this, it's time to hand the pink slip to my Motion Pro alignment tool and say farewell to eyeballing and parallax errors forever.
Bought one of these a few years ago - love it, although the mechanism to turn it on/off can be a little temperamental.
Bruce A take the batteries out after using it, keeps the contacts clean
I honestly don't understand why the manufacturer didn't just put a proper switch on
@@Turborider thanks for your comment. Older models have had mechanical switches. They are prone to dirt ingress so are a potential point of failure. This system is a simple screw so no small parts to fail 👍
@@mototechdiagnostics I think a simple push button with a rubber cap would do the trick. But this way it's simpler and cheaper
@@Turborider rubber degrades so is potentially another point of failure. The solution they have is the best long term. 👍
I already have one of these and it works absolutely amazing. Now when I read online on different forums people are saying that the chain alignment isn’t the same as rear wheel alignment?? Isn’t chain alignment the same as rear wheel alignment?
Thanks for your question. Front and rear sprockets are designed to be in line. Wheels are sometimes not in line, they may be offset. You will find this on some bikes, particularly shaft drive. Some chain drive bikes are also offset by manufacturer for whatever reason that only they can confirm. Wheel alignment is not always 1 wheel directly behind the other. We have seen cases where there may be a 10mm or more offset. If all other geometry ad frame condition is correct, correct chain alignment will by default ensure correct wheel alignment.
Stupid question what is the difference between this product and a normal laser pointer?
Thank you for your question. The laser in this tool is perfectly machined to be in line with the flat surface of the tool which is held against your rear sprocket. Accurate to 0.05%, (0.5mm over 1m)
You are using the L-CAT version, which is a line laser. Profi Products also offer a D-CAT version, which is a dot laser. Have you ever used the dot laser version?
ruclips.net/video/8yYjkNtoLy4/видео.html
beam of the laser is verry thick 😲
The tru tension one is so dim you can barely see it