2:51 is a Nooitgedagt chisel. It is a brand from the Netherlands (IJlst in Friesland) who made tools first (from Berg steel, which is a Swedish brand if I remember correct) and ice skates later on and got pretty famous for it. I own a few Nooitgedagt woodworking items and are really proud as a Dutch man to see you having one :-)
Yes but from the U.K. let’s get this straight. Most people buy a chisel buy whatever they can obtain at the time which is often old cast steel. The rest is modern but moderate on price. These will be sharpened by the average owner to entirely the wrong angle which is why you have your channel, which we all enjoy, to rectify! Alternatively you might persuade some to buy a sharpening aid which they will ruin their stone with because they will roll it back and forth we know this walking around flea markets! Now you have finished roaring with laughter and reaching for a can of beer realise we have all enjoyed your discourse.
I invested in a great set of Lie-Nielsen socket chisels years ago, and EVERY TIME I use them I lose my mind because they simply do not remain socketed. I’ve tried every trick in the book and set them every time, but they just fall apart in my hand. Im sure it’s me, not the chisels themselves - the quality is excellent, but I give up. Socket is not for me. I just ordered a new set of Narex Richter tang chisels - this video helped me make my final selection. Thanks!!!
I can’t tell you how happy I am to read your post. I am now a retired carpenter / woodworker. Some years back I wanted to treat myself to some quality bench chisels to use only in the shop, only for woodworking. I wanted to get Lie Neilson sockets, but was aghast at the price and I hemmed and hawed on it for about a year. And then I saw the reviews come in for the Narex Richter set and thought ….oh…ok. I have never been so pleased, they are not only cost effective, but worth every cent. Very good quality.
@@JerrySmith-ih9rdYay! I’m loving my Narex Richter chisels! I haven’t found a good home for my Lee Nielsen set, but I will. Thanks for letting me know!
Appreciate the work involved making this test along with the spreadsheet. I bought a set of the Stanley SH from Home Depot on a special promotion a few years back, $16.00 to the door, I rank them #1 for the sandwich $$ spent. haha
Can't speak for all the chisels, but I have a set of Kirschen chisels which are excellent. I have a set of Narex chisels but I bought the wrong handled ones. The handles are the ones which are waisted in the middle. 'Orrible shape. Doesn't feel at all right in the hand. I've since realised just how good the London pattern handles are. I also have a set of German MHG chisels I bought from an online tool shop in Berlin. They are really good. But one thing I should mention about Robert Sorby chisels; I bought an inch chisel once to use as my main bench chisel. It was FANTASTIC. But there was a catch. As I used it and sharpened it, it inevitably wore down in length. Over the course of the 18 months I was using it, I sharpened it enough where the little 6mm piece of hardened steel they add-on to the end of the chisel, like a little shim for the cutting edge, was ground almost completely away. In fact the remnant just chipped off as I was using it. What was left was just the softer steel of the shank of the blade. And I believe all Robert Sorby chisels are made the same way. So for a set you use rarely, they are great, but frequent sharpening will wear out the hardened steel cutting edge which is only 6mm deep (long). So for your main 'benchie' you use every day, best get another brand, or calculate in having to replace it once or twice.
I know this is from a while ago but were you flattening the back of the chisel every sharpening? I only do it once and never touch the back again with anything but a strop
@@Areeb118 Depends how much metal you need to remove from the chisel to get the two angles to meet, so the chisel is sharp. If just stropping works for you, that's fine. I use my chisel LOTS. So I have to sharpen it lots. Most of the honing is done on the grinding angle, but I still need to use the stone on the flat of the blade (just briefly) to remove the burr, then strop both. It's a technique known by all craftspeople using sharp tools as 'chasing the wire'. Remember every sharp edge has TWO faces, and they both need attention when sharpening.
@@alexanderguestguitars1173 you don’t need to remove any metal from the back of the chisel to sharpen the edge though, the back is flat and it’s only the very edge that is deformed, removing material from the bevel edge removes the dull edge and creates a burr. You could flip the burr back and forth but if you just go up the grits on the bevel edge, the burr gets smaller and smaller until it falls off while stropping. Wood by Woodright has a great video on it. Even after heavy use you shouldn’t need to do more than hit the bevel edge on a 1200 grit stone and strop both sides.
@@Areeb118 As I said, if that works for you, great. As a professional Cabinet Maker, with 35 years experience, and a self employee luthier building custom made guitars, whose currently employed building custom built furniture for superyachts for the super-rich from around the world, I think I might know how to sharpen a chisel, don't you? Anything else you'd like me to instruct you on?
If you only use a chisel once in a while or need a "beater" chisel, the 4-pack of Harbor Freight chisels on sale for $4 is hard to beat (no pun intended).
Thank you ! As a new interest in the craft, I want to start with something cheap enough that I won't be heartbroken if I screw it up or something, but not something so poor it makes things difficult or I spend way more time sharpening than I'd like. I'm a bit disappointed that the Irwin Marples didn't do better- as they're available very reasonably in my local stores. I suppose I'll be looking at the Narex or some of the Japanese chisels. Good to see some of the mid pack options are pretty widely available as well.
What a new year gift! You did it again. Thank you once again for sharing your time, passion and ultimately, your life with all of us. The best to you this new year!
I gotta speak up for the cheapie cheapie roll-over chisels. I use mine all the time, for unspeakably abusive tasks. They are very handy for those jobs that will ruin a good chisel. So they have their place. As long as you have some better ones for more careful work.
Any even (very) moderately priced chisels are fine TBH. They have different properties and you should really choose the one for your job and have the appropriate sharpening for that job. You are simply not gonna use a paring chisels to chop mortises, nor are you going to sharpen a mortise chisel as you would one you use to clean dovetails. I think the feeling is much more important. I like the Bergs, but am fully aware that even a relatively new Marples blue chip can do the job pretty okay. There isn't magic really.
And that's a very reason why I tell people the most important part of the chisel is the handle. Find one that feels good to you. Everything else is debatable.
@@WoodByWright Definitely! Balance and feel is often everything. I will say that some edges like PMV-11 lasts longer, but they are horrendously difficult to hone (at least with my sharpening style) and never really get THAT sharp.
Glad I could help! This is a great video James, interesting conclusions for sure. I am a devout EA Berg collector and user, but you do raise some great points about hardening having good days and bad days so to speak back in those days. However, steel back then was also simpler, nowadays we see a lot more exotic steel alloys in knives and chisels which we didn't do then. This also means hardening was a bit of a simpler task, even industrially. There also were different collections of EA Berg chisels, even during the post-war red plastic handle phase. I don't know if there is a difference, beyond just the handle, between plastic and wooden handled chisels of contemporary age. Unlike you I love socketed chisels though, not a huge fan of tangs, but socketed chisels are hard to come by here. Will be checking out the longer video when I get a chance, but really good to see this summary video as well 🙂
I need something good enough to use every day, but cheap enough to not feel too bad dropping off the side of a boat/ loosing in a boat yard. What would you recommend?
Thank you for that great market analysis, review! Two comments: The Aldi chisels, advocated by Paul Sellers were made my MHG Tools in Eastern Germany as far as I know. They have a series of very defined chisels for a competitive price (nearly ready for use, thin sides good for dovetails). I like the company being a small family run one. I am using their refined chisels and a set of 6 was around 100 Euro I think. Paul has some recent blog posts on the MHG chisels. The Narex Chisels are cheaper in Germany it seems (Fine Tools, Meyer Tools). Around 30 Euro per chisel the premium ones.
Thanks! I have one A.E.Berg and it is good but not brilliant. Sometimes I think old chisels can have a few mm of bad steel by overheating in bad sharpening. So I keep trying to see if it gets better.
Funny how I have found so so many old planes here in Hawaii but basically no chisels. A couple huge Irwins (one is 28" long) and that's it. ... and I'm surprised you don't have more samples of Japanese chisels. There are some outrageously expensive sets ($12k) that would be interesting to compare to. Aloha 🤙
In the later version of this test I have several Japanese chisels. But in general those really high-end ones you're just paying for the maker you're not paying for anything more functional.
My thoughts on Kimmons are simple $2000.00 for a set of chisels ain't happening with me . The Richter are pretty pricey but an attainable goal for us poor folks , i know i'm poor but i attained them and for the price don't think they can be beat , fully expect mine to last to the end and beyond hopefully my son in law will be using them long after i'm gone .
Nooitgedagt, it's a former Dutch ice skate company which also made very good chisels with E.A. Berg steel. They once were the leading company for chisels and other woodworking tools. The old chisels were one of the best you could buy, but sadly enough, they didn't proceed with this high quality steel. I've collected a complete set of those old quality chisels from 5mm to 70mm over the years, and I love working with them.
I was going to say the same. I got my first few from my father and later collected the others for a full set. They hold an edge like nobody's business.
I bought a set of Narex Richter after watching your first chisel comparison video. They are definitely an excellent value. Now I'm curious to try some of the other top choices!
Interesting results I’ve a set of the new pfiel and wasn’t at all impressed with first use but have been more so over time I’ve also used the Narex and just not been pleased at all The sorbys you rated way down at 28 and I love them for durability on hardwoods I guess how you feel about your chisels is not so much scientific as subjective to your own uses I pick up one’s I’m comfortable with for different jobs But as usual loved the vid and presentation
I’ve never seen someone who’s life is so completely consumed by chisels. I mean, don’t get me wrong. I keep a decent set of Irwin marps and a shitty set of dewalt serrated beaters, but holy hell, I could never had have imagined someone would or could possibly have so much to say about chisels. This guy must work for the irs…
One of the great debates with woodturning tools is also about edge durability and sharpness/keenness as you called it. I think the end conclusion is that you can get any metal to about the same degree of sharpness, but some are easier to get sharp than others. Now, I am thinking about taking an M42HSS blank I have and making a paring chisel out of it.... Hmmmm. Putting ideas into my head is a dangerous thing....
I ended up with the Kimmons Chisels. They are not quite socket chisels. I was surprised that his handles are stabilized wood. If I had it to do over again, I would have sent wood from my collection to be stabilized because I have lots of wood that he doesn't have and/or can't get. The quality is excellent. He does not make a corner chisel, yet....
I have a lot of chisels, some great, some not so much. I'm really happy with the one Narex Richter I have. I will be building a set of them as budget allows. Thanks for the hard work James.
Fantastic testing and comparison, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃 For now all I have are a few Stanleys with plastic handles... 😬 They aren't great, but they are good enough for starters. And I can upgrade them later. 😊 Anyway, happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I've had a set of those Craftsman chisels forever and never been happy with them. I've only recently learned how to get a decent edge on them, so that helps, but they're still not great. I've been eyeing the Narex for a while now. I may need to treat myself this year to something that's actually enjoyable to use. Happy New Year and thanks for sharing!
Thank you James for the chisel listing and testing. Question: You mentioned that on the Narex chisels the blade steel was the same, only the handles differed. I have a set of Narex chisels but cannot find a matching handle style to identify the version. Is the blade steel the same or similar in all of their chisels or do they use different steels for the different grades of chisel?
I was going to say, I’d love to see how old cast steel chisels would fare, because those are what I’ve come to prefer (they sharpen easily with oil stones, get very sharp, and hold an edge quite well) but after hearing your explanation of why you used mostly new chisels I understand why you didn’t get into this. And of course there are so many variables with old cast steel etc
Your Google doc's da bomb! Also, because my woodworking skills and experience are on the shabby side of beginner, I'll just continue to sharpen and use my HF wood handled chisels for now. I'm sure one day I'll get something better. Like I tell my daughter, having pro tools doesn't make you a pro. Having pro skills and knowledge does.
OMG! Four Hundred Hours! I can't help envisioning a scenario in which some fool listens to your result and says. "You're wrong". I think you'd have a hard time resisting disjointing him like the Sunday chicken! Thank you for making such a huge effort, My goto chisels are the LN socket chisels. I've had them for a long time and I'm happy with them. An "outlier" chisel I have is an old red handled Marples 1 1/2" or 2" chisel. I'll confess that I very rarely use it and when I do use it it is mainly for trimming edges. I'm not hammering on it like a madman all day every day so my impression might be skewed, but I like this chisel. It feels good in the hand (for a plastic handle) and is definitely blade heavy. The blades takes and holds an excellent edge. I don't know if you or any of your other readers would be interested in doing this, but I routinely keep a leather strop charged with honing compound glued to a hardwood back nearby when I'm using my chisels and will strop them periodically as I'm working or before I put them away for the day. I suppose it might seem laborious, but I very rarely need to sharpen my chisels.
if someone came up to me and said you can pick this tasai chisel or richter for free, it wouldnt even be a question. I would pick up a set of narex for beaters though
Cool to see. You obviously can't test every chisel and I think you did a great amount. I have a made in Japan lee valley set as my good chisels they work well. I think you hit the nail on the head with the subjectivity.
Nooitgedagt is actually a Dutch company (although I don't think it exists anymore). You can find many planes and chisels of it here on the second hand market. They may have used Swedish steel though.
Usually, tools that are reported as an exceptional value go up in price soon after the video hits. Higher sales- higher prices. Exceptional value? Problem solved!
They’re €30 ($34) retail in Germany at the moment, so I would expect the US price to be higher than that (and higher than the $35 in the spreadsheet). Can’t remember how much they were last year, sorry.
Surprised the original Marples Blue Chips arent in the top anything. I love mine. I have some Narex specialty chisels but my daily bench chisels are the Marples.
Trying to figure out the 3:rd swedish chisle you mentioned, can't really understand your accent when pronouncing haha good effort. Just looked at the video info, can't say I have ever heard of it, the name sounds german or dutch. Nooitgedagt, the other ones, Bahco and Hultafors are easy but the third one raised my curiosity. Use Axminster Rider chisels myself, any light opinion of those? Bought them a month ago, can't say much other than the chisel doesn't really maintain an edge very long. Pine shouldn't be a problem.
it is spelled Nooitgedagt the owner told me it was sweetish but I have heard from others they were Dutch. or are you talking about Bahco ergo? that is a sub brand of Bahco.
@@WoodByWright Yes sorry for being confusing, your video did raise quite an interest for me as I have been wondering about what chisels to chase after on second hand markets. So, after a bit of further research into the subject. Nooitgedagt are swedish E A Berg steel chisels but put together in Holland, as you also stated Bahco Ergo and E A Berg are the same chisels after 1958, Funny how I thought I had to buy american or english chisels when the "best" chisels were made in the neighbouring city of my birth place. Thanks for a very interesting video! I'll be patroning your channel from now on sir.
Good on you. I use the cheap stuff hower. A set of matrix "tigers eye" with a chinese brand "gross" for the thinnest one. Ironically they perform well....
Ma toglimi una curiosita', quando lavorano questi scalpelli e ferri vari? Vedo sempre tutto nuovo e in ordine, manici perfetti, perfettamente puliti, niente ossidazioni,ecc. Sembra piu' che altro una collezione!
La maggior parte di questi sono nuovi: testare vecchi scalpelli può portare a risultati di cui non ci si può fidare. Mi dispiace di aver tradotto la tua domanda in modo scorretto.
Thank you for this video. I have a set of those Bahco chisels with the red handles. Due to their softness, I use them as my cedar chisels i.e., for fitting locks to cedar French doors, etc.. They are, of course, quick and easy to sharpen with my wet sharpening machine. If I had to do several door sets on a single job, I might actually bring that machine to site; otherwise it would be a good way to spend a peaceful half hour in the garage, at day’s end, bringing back the edges.
There are lots of antique chisels I could try, but I try not to unless I can get a larger sample size. older methods use to create a larger range of quality so testing one does not tell you much about the rest.
Realy cool test I would love those tests for like everything. I hate it when I buy something and then realise it is not the optimal choice so this is very usefull
Hey James i got a idea for a show turning a vintage wooden screw clamp into a miter jack I'm doing in now thought I'd reach out and share the idea thought it would make a great show love the channel keep up the great work thanks!!!!
I have several links in the description going into the test in detail. This channel deals in the short and sweet content. My how to channel I go into much greater detail.
I own the complete set of Narex Richter and I love them. However, I started out with the wood handled set from HF. Yup, generally pure junk. BUT, the 1" HF chisel from that set is essentially a premium piece that excels far better than any of the Stanley Sweethearts I've obtained. Holds an edge that any woodworker would be happy with. The rest of that set, sharpen em up and the edge breaks off before they touch the wood.
Very good vid. I personally have always thought that chisels (and plane blades) are a bit of a rip off. Best chisels I have ever used are a set of four marples, that a friend retempered for me. He was a brilliant Blacksmith,and I mean brilliant. Tempering was a specialty for him. I had some other chisels that I took to him,he immediately threw them in his scrap bin. He said he had no intention of working with that @#£& metal. I still have two of the Marples Chisels.But over the years they have worn down. And are now only sentimental objects. But I do have a new set of Narex chisels and they are sort of OK. But not worth what I paid for them
It's just one more thing to mess with. If the handle isn't set just right they come loose. You always need to make sure you pick them up by the metal rather than by the handle in case that happens to be the point which they come loose. Also, they tend to be a bit more bulbous in size and shape and I don't much care for that feel. In the end it's just a personal preference.
@@WoodByWright This is probably heretical, but I’ll epoxy/cotton flox my antique socket chisels when they’re “fit fussy”. It’s easy enough to remove heat gun softened epoxy in the event re-handling becomes necessary. I love most of my Witherbys and liked Stanley 60’s OTJ. Got a not necessarily rational weakness for old tools though.
You do love those spreadsheets, don't you, James? Haha! I restored an Erik Anton Berg chisel (1" socket type, with the leather end on the handle) that was from my grandfather's boat building tool set. The full name is spelled out, as well as the Eskilstuna, Sweden and the shark logo. Any idea of the age of that style? If you want to test it, I'd have no problem loaning it to you. Let me know.
I honestly don't know. I haven't heard of that one before. However, there were a lot of different companies using swedish steel. Back then. I would actually say put a few pictures of it up on the unplugged woodworkers group on Facebook. There are a lot of good people who know a lot of history. There's probably someone on there who's a collector of it.
I purchased a set of Mizugaki Ouchi chisels from a tool collector, they were touted as the best chisels in the world. After using them for a year I would have to agree. The chisels were from 1980 and never been used or set up. Ouchi was a master of tempering steel, the chisels are extremely hard but not at all brittle. They are easy to sharpen and hold an edge like no others that I have tried, in my 38 year career, even when I am hammering them into rosewood. Like you say, it's impossible to test everything, so by that statement maybe putting "the best chisel ever made" in the title is a little misleading.
Think mine is all about how it feels in your hand, as I can’t see so my hands on my eyes. I love listening to both clips. You’ve got too much time on your hands but what amazing chest are you going to do plain irons next
I believe it is marketed as "Two Cherries" in America since it's easier for them to understand. Much like E. A. Berg was marketed as "Shark-brand". It's just a way of making the consumers not have difficulties pronouncing it
Should have tried Jernboleget. Plane blades would be a far better and more interesting test. Good old Swedish Carbon steel like in each bergs, jernbolegets, esteels...I coupled with the chisel cesign, being A short bevel, with carbon steel, it sharpens so fast, is so sharp and touches up in seconds. Camp steels are so hard, you need diamond to sharpen. ANF takes A lo g time. With the short levels you dont need to hollow grind them! I LOVE her bolster plane blade in my no.4
@@WoodByWright Yes it would be interesting , I wouldn't mind a set of Japanese Chisels but a bit of an extravagance, or a dedicated set of mortice chisels .
Thanks for your research! My litmus test for a mallet driven chisel is that the steel goes from tip to butt. I want the force to be end to end direct not sent thru wood or plastic. If they can't get that part right I don't want the tool. Marple fills this requirement while most chisels don't
Just have to put in a Your Mileage May Vary warning about the Narex Richters. I purchased a set from Taytools and Every. Single. One. had a convex belly for a back. And due to the hardness of the steel, they have been such a gigantic pain in the rear to flatten. They also have a little flex to them, lacking the geometry of the Lie-Nielsen or the old Stanley Sweetheart (the new ones also lack the shape that thickens toward the handle and so flex like the Richters).
The old chissels are usually a nightmare to get a flat back in them. The E.A. Berg chissels are really a nightmare because the backs are sticking out in the middle, which is hard to get rid of, especially because they are hard as a rock.
2:51 is a Nooitgedagt chisel. It is a brand from the Netherlands (IJlst in Friesland) who made tools first (from Berg steel, which is a Swedish brand if I remember correct) and ice skates later on and got pretty famous for it. I own a few Nooitgedagt woodworking items and are really proud as a Dutch man to see you having one :-)
Exhausted just watching the video, but now I know where to go when I need a good chisel. Thank, James.
Yes but from the U.K. let’s get this straight. Most people buy a chisel buy whatever they can obtain at the time which is often old cast steel. The rest is modern but moderate on price. These will be sharpened by the average owner to entirely the wrong angle which is why you have your channel, which we all enjoy, to rectify! Alternatively you might persuade some to buy a sharpening aid which they will ruin their stone with because they will roll it back and forth we know this walking around flea markets! Now you have finished roaring with laughter and reaching for a can of beer realise we have all enjoyed your discourse.
I invested in a great set of Lie-Nielsen socket chisels years ago, and EVERY TIME I use them I lose my mind because they simply do not remain socketed. I’ve tried every trick in the book and set them every time, but they just fall apart in my hand. Im sure it’s me, not the chisels themselves - the quality is excellent, but I give up. Socket is not for me.
I just ordered a new set of Narex Richter tang chisels - this video helped me make my final selection. Thanks!!!
I can’t tell you how happy I am to read your post. I am now a retired carpenter / woodworker. Some years back I wanted to treat myself to some quality bench chisels to use only in the shop, only for woodworking. I wanted to get Lie Neilson sockets, but was aghast at the price and I hemmed and hawed on it for about a year. And then I saw the reviews come in for the Narex Richter set and thought ….oh…ok. I have never been so pleased, they are not only cost effective, but worth every cent. Very good quality.
@@JerrySmith-ih9rdYay! I’m loving my Narex Richter chisels! I haven’t found a good home for my Lee Nielsen set, but I will. Thanks for letting me know!
Appreciate the work involved making this test along with the spreadsheet. I bought a set of the Stanley SH from Home Depot on a special promotion a few years back, $16.00 to the door, I rank them #1 for the sandwich $$ spent. haha
Can't speak for all the chisels, but I have a set of Kirschen chisels which are excellent. I have a set of Narex chisels but I bought the wrong handled ones. The handles are the ones which are waisted in the middle. 'Orrible shape. Doesn't feel at all right in the hand. I've since realised just how good the London pattern handles are. I also have a set of German MHG chisels I bought from an online tool shop in Berlin. They are really good. But one thing I should mention about Robert Sorby chisels; I bought an inch chisel once to use as my main bench chisel. It was FANTASTIC. But there was a catch. As I used it and sharpened it, it inevitably wore down in length. Over the course of the 18 months I was using it, I sharpened it enough where the little 6mm piece of hardened steel they add-on to the end of the chisel, like a little shim for the cutting edge, was ground almost completely away. In fact the remnant just chipped off as I was using it. What was left was just the softer steel of the shank of the blade. And I believe all Robert Sorby chisels are made the same way. So for a set you use rarely, they are great, but frequent sharpening will wear out the hardened steel cutting edge which is only 6mm deep (long). So for your main 'benchie' you use every day, best get another brand, or calculate in having to replace it once or twice.
I know this is from a while ago but were you flattening the back of the chisel every sharpening? I only do it once and never touch the back again with anything but a strop
@@Areeb118 Depends how much metal you need to remove from the chisel to get the two angles to meet, so the chisel is sharp. If just stropping works for you, that's fine. I use my chisel LOTS. So I have to sharpen it lots. Most of the honing is done on the grinding angle, but I still need to use the stone on the flat of the blade (just briefly) to remove the burr, then strop both. It's a technique known by all craftspeople using sharp tools as 'chasing the wire'. Remember every sharp edge has TWO faces, and they both need attention when sharpening.
@@alexanderguestguitars1173 you don’t need to remove any metal from the back of the chisel to sharpen the edge though, the back is flat and it’s only the very edge that is deformed, removing material from the bevel edge removes the dull edge and creates a burr. You could flip the burr back and forth but if you just go up the grits on the bevel edge, the burr gets smaller and smaller until it falls off while stropping. Wood by Woodright has a great video on it. Even after heavy use you shouldn’t need to do more than hit the bevel edge on a 1200 grit stone and strop both sides.
@@Areeb118 As I said, if that works for you, great. As a professional Cabinet Maker, with 35 years experience, and a self employee luthier building custom made guitars, whose currently employed building custom built furniture for superyachts for the super-rich from around the world, I think I might know how to sharpen a chisel, don't you? Anything else you'd like me to instruct you on?
If you only use a chisel once in a while or need a "beater" chisel, the 4-pack of Harbor Freight chisels on sale for $4 is hard to beat (no pun intended).
Thank you ! As a new interest in the craft, I want to start with something cheap enough that I won't be heartbroken if I screw it up or something, but not something so poor it makes things difficult or I spend way more time sharpening than I'd like. I'm a bit disappointed that the Irwin Marples didn't do better- as they're available very reasonably in my local stores. I suppose I'll be looking at the Narex or some of the Japanese chisels. Good to see some of the mid pack options are pretty widely available as well.
0:41 WHAT A GOD!!!
What a new year gift! You did it again. Thank you once again for sharing your time, passion and ultimately, your life with all of us. The best to you this new year!
I gotta speak up for the cheapie cheapie roll-over chisels. I use mine all the time, for unspeakably abusive tasks. They are very handy for those jobs that will ruin a good chisel. So they have their place. As long as you have some better ones for more careful work.
There is something ridiculously hilarious about you calling a task for a chisel “unspeakably abusive” 😂
Thank you for making this extensive test. I have been waiting for the video. Looking forward to seeing the lengthy version. Happy new years!
Very informative. Thank you!😊
Any even (very) moderately priced chisels are fine TBH. They have different properties and you should really choose the one for your job and have the appropriate sharpening for that job. You are simply not gonna use a paring chisels to chop mortises, nor are you going to sharpen a mortise chisel as you would one you use to clean dovetails. I think the feeling is much more important. I like the Bergs, but am fully aware that even a relatively new Marples blue chip can do the job pretty okay. There isn't magic really.
And that's a very reason why I tell people the most important part of the chisel is the handle. Find one that feels good to you. Everything else is debatable.
@@WoodByWright Definitely! Balance and feel is often everything. I will say that some edges like PMV-11 lasts longer, but they are horrendously difficult to hone (at least with my sharpening style) and never really get THAT sharp.
Thanks!
Glad I could help! This is a great video James, interesting conclusions for sure. I am a devout EA Berg collector and user, but you do raise some great points about hardening having good days and bad days so to speak back in those days. However, steel back then was also simpler, nowadays we see a lot more exotic steel alloys in knives and chisels which we didn't do then. This also means hardening was a bit of a simpler task, even industrially. There also were different collections of EA Berg chisels, even during the post-war red plastic handle phase. I don't know if there is a difference, beyond just the handle, between plastic and wooden handled chisels of contemporary age. Unlike you I love socketed chisels though, not a huge fan of tangs, but socketed chisels are hard to come by here.
Will be checking out the longer video when I get a chance, but really good to see this summary video as well 🙂
thanks man. that is very true many of the steels we use now offer all kinds of difficulties
Hey great video, I have was wondering what is your opinion on stanley bailey chisels?
They are ok. I don't like that handle design and am not a fan of socket chisels. But that is just personal preference.
Very helpful in knowng what to bid on in CIHI. Thanks!
I need something good enough to use every day, but cheap enough to not feel too bad dropping off the side of a boat/ loosing in a boat yard. What would you recommend?
That depends on your budget.
Thank you for that great market analysis, review!
Two comments: The Aldi chisels, advocated by Paul Sellers were made my MHG Tools in Eastern Germany as far as I know. They have a series of very defined chisels for a competitive price (nearly ready for use, thin sides good for dovetails). I like the company being a small family run one. I am using their refined chisels and a set of 6 was around 100 Euro I think. Paul has some recent blog posts on the MHG chisels.
The Narex Chisels are cheaper in Germany it seems (Fine Tools, Meyer Tools). Around 30 Euro per chisel the premium ones.
Another great chisel review. Bought a set of Richters based on your reviews and have not regretted it.
7:40 making videos is damn hard! I feel you
Thanks! I have one A.E.Berg and it is good but not brilliant. Sometimes I think old chisels can have a few mm of bad steel by overheating in bad sharpening. So I keep trying to see if it gets better.
Funny how I have found so so many old planes here in Hawaii but basically no chisels. A couple huge Irwins (one is 28" long) and that's it.
... and I'm surprised you don't have more samples of Japanese chisels. There are some outrageously expensive sets ($12k) that would be interesting to compare to.
Aloha 🤙
In the later version of this test I have several Japanese chisels. But in general those really high-end ones you're just paying for the maker you're not paying for anything more functional.
@@WoodByWright ... yeah, I guess those are really just for rich collectors who just want the stuff as a status symbol for their ego. 😑
🤙
My thoughts on Kimmons are simple $2000.00 for a set of chisels ain't happening with me . The Richter are pretty pricey but an attainable goal for us poor folks , i know i'm poor but i attained them and for the price don't think they can be beat , fully expect mine to last to the end and beyond hopefully my son in law will be using them long after i'm gone .
Nooitgedagt, it's a former Dutch ice skate company which also made very good chisels with E.A. Berg steel. They once were the leading company for chisels and other woodworking tools. The old chisels were one of the best you could buy, but sadly enough, they didn't proceed with this high quality steel. I've collected a complete set of those old quality chisels from 5mm to 70mm over the years, and I love working with them.
I was going to say the same. I got my first few from my father and later collected the others for a full set. They hold an edge like nobody's business.
From which year did the quality decline? Was Berg's steel no longer used from then on?
Amazing and interessting! Thanks!
I bought a set of Narex Richter after watching your first chisel comparison video. They are definitely an excellent value. Now I'm curious to try some of the other top choices!
Interesting results I’ve a set of the new pfiel and wasn’t at all impressed with first use but have been more so over time I’ve also used the Narex and just not been pleased at all
The sorbys you rated way down at 28 and I love them for durability on hardwoods I guess how you feel about your chisels is not so much scientific as subjective to your own uses I pick up one’s I’m comfortable with for different jobs
But as usual loved the vid and presentation
I’ve never seen someone who’s life is so completely consumed by chisels. I mean, don’t get me wrong. I keep a decent set of Irwin marps and a shitty set of dewalt serrated beaters, but holy hell, I could never had have imagined someone would or could possibly have so much to say about chisels. This guy must work for the irs…
One of the great debates with woodturning tools is also about edge durability and sharpness/keenness as you called it. I think the end conclusion is that you can get any metal to about the same degree of sharpness, but some are easier to get sharp than others. Now, I am thinking about taking an M42HSS blank I have and making a paring chisel out of it.... Hmmmm. Putting ideas into my head is a dangerous thing....
I ended up with the Kimmons Chisels. They are not quite socket chisels. I was surprised that his handles are stabilized wood. If I had it to do over again, I would have sent wood from my collection to be stabilized because I have lots of wood that he doesn't have and/or can't get. The quality is excellent. He does not make a corner chisel, yet....
I have a lot of chisels, some great, some not so much. I'm really happy with the one Narex Richter I have. I will be building a set of them as budget allows. Thanks for the hard work James.
I purchased the Narex Richter full set w/o handles. It was so much less expensive and I can turn handles.
@@koryleach9660Where do you get them without handles ?
Also something that is totally untestable is hand size and arm lenght
Fantastic testing and comparison, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
For now all I have are a few Stanleys with plastic handles... 😬
They aren't great, but they are good enough for starters. And I can upgrade them later. 😊
Anyway, happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I've had a set of those Craftsman chisels forever and never been happy with them. I've only recently learned how to get a decent edge on them, so that helps, but they're still not great. I've been eyeing the Narex for a while now. I may need to treat myself this year to something that's actually enjoyable to use. Happy New Year and thanks for sharing!
Thank you James for the chisel listing and testing. Question: You mentioned that on the Narex chisels the blade steel was the same, only the handles differed. I have a set of Narex chisels but cannot find a matching handle style to identify the version. Is the blade steel the same or similar in all of their chisels or do they use different steels for the different grades of chisel?
The Narex Richter uses a different steel and a cryo treatment. But all of the other Narex chisels use the same steel and tempering method
@@WoodByWright Thank you James.
Where does the Kobalt fit into the grand scheme of things, are they worth the purchase?
They are near the bottom. There are better chisels for the price
James was this video hammered or just peeled off?😂
I like sharp chisels!!!
Those are the best ones.
I was going to say, I’d love to see how old cast steel chisels would fare, because those are what I’ve come to prefer (they sharpen easily with oil stones, get very sharp, and hold an edge quite well) but after hearing your explanation of why you used mostly new chisels I understand why you didn’t get into this. And of course there are so many variables with old cast steel etc
If I could get a big enough sample I would love to test them.
@@WoodByWright Especially old ones with a laminated bit too.
Your Google doc's da bomb!
Also, because my woodworking skills and experience are on the shabby side of beginner, I'll just continue to sharpen and use my HF wood handled chisels for now. I'm sure one day I'll get something better.
Like I tell my daughter, having pro tools doesn't make you a pro. Having pro skills and knowledge does.
chisels that dull quicker just mean that you get more practice learnign to sharpen. that can be a great thing
Hardness / Durability / Chipping / Rolling over ... so satisfying to hear you speak about this. Thank you so much for you efforts, amazing work.
OMG! Four Hundred Hours! I can't help envisioning a scenario in which some fool listens to your result and says. "You're wrong". I think you'd have a hard time resisting disjointing him like the Sunday chicken! Thank you for making such a huge effort,
My goto chisels are the LN socket chisels. I've had them for a long time and I'm happy with them. An "outlier" chisel I have is an old red handled Marples 1 1/2" or 2" chisel. I'll confess that I very rarely use it and when I do use it it is mainly for trimming edges. I'm not hammering on it like a madman all day every day so my impression might be skewed, but I like this chisel. It feels good in the hand (for a plastic handle) and is definitely blade heavy. The blades takes and holds an excellent edge.
I don't know if you or any of your other readers would be interested in doing this, but I routinely keep a leather strop charged with honing compound glued to a hardwood back nearby when I'm using my chisels and will strop them periodically as I'm working or before I put them away for the day. I suppose it might seem laborious, but I very rarely need to sharpen my chisels.
I don’t see IBC chisels on your spreadsheet. Have you tested any of them? I hear they are really nice but very pricey.
Yes, they're on the list. They came out 6th in my ranking. But depending upon what you put for the parameters they move up and down the list.
This is truly an amazing undertaking. Thanks for all the hard work. Have a great year.
I have a set of the Narex richters but my favorite is a Japanese chisel I paid a lot for.
if someone came up to me and said you can pick this tasai chisel or richter for free, it wouldnt even be a question. I would pick up a set of narex for beaters though
Love both your channels n preciate the value of your test and work
Bummed not to see a Narex Richter.
It's in the updated version. There's a link in the description. This video came out before the neurex Richter was on the market.
WOW! Exhaustive, in depth, and quite thorough! Thank you for this James. Great work.
100 chisel 👌👍👍
Cool to see. You obviously can't test every chisel and I think you did a great amount. I have a made in Japan lee valley set as my good chisels they work well. I think you hit the nail on the head with the subjectivity.
Nooitgedagt is actually a Dutch company (although I don't think it exists anymore). You can find many planes and chisels of it here on the second hand market. They may have used Swedish steel though.
I don't know how you do this, but I appreciate that you do. Thank you!
Great content! However I wasn't able to find a 1/2" Narex Richter chisel for less than $45, just as a data point.
Thanks Brian. I might have to go check on that one. Half of the chisels were priced last year when I made the first half of the list.
Usually, tools that are reported as an exceptional value go up in price soon after the video hits. Higher sales- higher prices. Exceptional value? Problem solved!
They’re €30 ($34) retail in Germany at the moment, so I would expect the US price to be higher than that (and higher than the $35 in the spreadsheet). Can’t remember how much they were last year, sorry.
Surprised the original Marples Blue Chips arent in the top anything. I love mine. I have some Narex specialty chisels but my daily bench chisels are the Marples.
marples dull easy, had them for years
Very cool.
Pfeil sewiss ❤
So, those who use Harbor Freight tools are cheap chiselers?
Feeling even better about my Narex Richters now 🤣
happy new year for you and yours
Trying to figure out the 3:rd swedish chisle you mentioned, can't really understand your accent when pronouncing haha good effort. Just looked at the video info, can't say I have ever heard of it, the name sounds german or dutch. Nooitgedagt, the other ones, Bahco and Hultafors are easy but the third one raised my curiosity. Use Axminster Rider chisels myself, any light opinion of those? Bought them a month ago, can't say much other than the chisel doesn't really maintain an edge very long. Pine shouldn't be a problem.
it is spelled Nooitgedagt the owner told me it was sweetish but I have heard from others they were Dutch. or are you talking about Bahco ergo? that is a sub brand of Bahco.
@@WoodByWright Yes sorry for being confusing, your video did raise quite an interest for me as I have been wondering about what chisels to chase after on second hand markets. So, after a bit of further research into the subject. Nooitgedagt are swedish E A Berg steel chisels but put together in Holland, as you also stated Bahco Ergo and E A Berg are the same chisels after 1958, Funny how I thought I had to buy american or english chisels when the "best" chisels were made in the neighbouring city of my birth place. Thanks for a very interesting video! I'll be patroning your channel from now on sir.
Nooitgedagt was made in the Netherlands from Swedish steel.
(Btw Nooitgedagt means ‘never thought’)
thanks for doing this- i learned stuff
Une vidéo qui va être très intéressante...
Bonne année
Good on you. I use the cheap stuff hower. A set of matrix "tigers eye" with a chinese brand "gross" for the thinnest one. Ironically they perform well....
Ma toglimi una curiosita', quando lavorano questi scalpelli e ferri vari? Vedo sempre tutto nuovo e in ordine, manici perfetti, perfettamente puliti, niente ossidazioni,ecc. Sembra piu' che altro una collezione!
La maggior parte di questi sono nuovi: testare vecchi scalpelli può portare a risultati di cui non ci si può fidare. Mi dispiace di aver tradotto la tua domanda in modo scorretto.
Merry Xmas and Happy New Year
Thank you for this video. I have a set of those Bahco chisels with the red handles. Due to their softness, I use them as my cedar chisels i.e., for fitting locks to cedar French doors, etc.. They are, of course, quick and easy to sharpen with my wet sharpening machine. If I had to do several door sets on a single job, I might actually bring that machine to site; otherwise it would be a good way to spend a peaceful half hour in the garage, at day’s end, bringing back the edges.
This is awesome, nice work
What about à Peugeot chisel?
There are lots of antique chisels I could try, but I try not to unless I can get a larger sample size. older methods use to create a larger range of quality so testing one does not tell you much about the rest.
Realy cool test I would love those tests for like everything. I hate it when I buy something and then realise it is not the optimal choice so this is very usefull
I've done it for replacement plane, irons and glues but hoping to add a few more tests in the future.
Hey James i got a idea for a show turning a vintage wooden screw clamp into a miter jack I'm doing in now thought I'd reach out and share the idea thought it would make a great show love the channel keep up the great work thanks!!!!
Nice
but...what was the test?
I have several links in the description going into the test in detail. This channel deals in the short and sweet content. My how to channel I go into much greater detail.
I own the complete set of Narex Richter and I love them. However, I started out with the wood handled set from HF. Yup, generally pure junk. BUT, the 1" HF chisel from that set is essentially a premium piece that excels far better than any of the Stanley Sweethearts I've obtained. Holds an edge that any woodworker would be happy with. The rest of that set, sharpen em up and the edge breaks off before they touch the wood.
Very good vid. I personally have always thought that chisels (and plane blades) are a bit of a rip off. Best chisels I have ever used are a set of four marples, that a friend retempered for me. He was a brilliant Blacksmith,and I mean brilliant. Tempering was a specialty for him. I had some other chisels that I took to him,he immediately threw them in his scrap bin. He said he had no intention of working with that @#£& metal. I still have two of the Marples Chisels.But over the years they have worn down. And are now only sentimental objects. But I do have a new set of Narex chisels and they are sort of OK. But not worth what I paid for them
Why don't you like socketed chisels?
It's just one more thing to mess with. If the handle isn't set just right they come loose. You always need to make sure you pick them up by the metal rather than by the handle in case that happens to be the point which they come loose. Also, they tend to be a bit more bulbous in size and shape and I don't much care for that feel. In the end it's just a personal preference.
@@WoodByWright This is probably heretical, but I’ll epoxy/cotton flox my antique socket chisels when they’re “fit fussy”. It’s easy enough to remove heat gun softened epoxy in the event re-handling becomes necessary. I love most of my Witherbys and liked Stanley 60’s OTJ. Got a not necessarily rational weakness for old tools though.
You do love those spreadsheets, don't you, James? Haha!
I restored an Erik Anton Berg chisel (1" socket type, with the leather end on the handle) that was from my grandfather's boat building tool set. The full name is spelled out, as well as the Eskilstuna, Sweden and the shark logo. Any idea of the age of that style? If you want to test it, I'd have no problem loaning it to you. Let me know.
I honestly don't know. I haven't heard of that one before. However, there were a lot of different companies using swedish steel. Back then. I would actually say put a few pictures of it up on the unplugged woodworkers group on Facebook. There are a lot of good people who know a lot of history. There's probably someone on there who's a collector of it.
I purchased a set of Mizugaki Ouchi chisels from a tool collector, they were touted as the best chisels in the world. After using them for a year I would have to agree. The chisels were from 1980 and never been used or set up. Ouchi was a master of tempering steel, the chisels are extremely hard but not at all brittle. They are easy to sharpen and hold an edge like no others that I have tried, in my 38 year career, even when I am hammering them into rosewood. Like you say, it's impossible to test everything, so by that statement maybe putting "the best chisel ever made" in the title is a little misleading.
You have all of them but not DeWalt why 🤔
There are a bunch of them from The Big box store I did not try. They're just not worth the time.
@WoodByWright they are so bad?
Yeah there's no chisel at The Big box store. That would be a quality woodworking chisel. They're designed for Carpenters, not woodworkers.
$325 for a Kimmons chisel? Sorry, not a retired CEO.
like my Stanley sweetheart tang chisels,great bang for the buck
Think mine is all about how it feels in your hand, as I can’t see so my hands on my eyes. I love listening to both clips. You’ve got too much time on your hands but what amazing chest are you going to do plain irons next
SWEET! first episode of the year! Good riddance 2021 and welcome 2022!
Kimmons all the way for me…
Great video
Your "2cherries" ist actually called "Kirsche" Here in Germany...and yes, Kirsche Jeans Cherry...but without the 2 pls😉🤗
I believe it is marketed as "Two Cherries" in America since it's easier for them to understand. Much like E. A. Berg was marketed as "Shark-brand". It's just a way of making the consumers not have difficulties pronouncing it
Yep. It’s always been called Two Cherries in the US. Elsewhere in Europe they’re called Kirschen.
The one you couldn’t pronounce is Nooitgedagt, Frisian/Dutch made. Name translates as neverthought or unexpected
But why didnt you test MHG chisels 🤔 I joke James 😂🤣
Came here from Hand Tools Rescue, think I will end up binge watching. Chisels these days don't seem as good as granddad's. Guess I got the cheap ones.
Good to have you. Love his channel. A lot of fun in person too.
Should have tried Jernboleget. Plane blades would be a far better and more interesting test. Good old Swedish Carbon steel like in each bergs, jernbolegets, esteels...I coupled with the chisel cesign, being A short bevel, with carbon steel, it sharpens so fast, is so sharp and touches up in seconds. Camp steels are so hard, you need diamond to sharpen. ANF takes A lo g time. With the short levels you dont need to hollow grind them! I LOVE her bolster plane blade in my no.4
In the later test I throw in a few of those. They're okay but they're not great in comparison to a lot of the modern steals.
There was a time Marple's were the best Chisel by default , since they were taken over by Irwin the quality has gone down hill.
I would love to get my hands on a bunch of antique marples and put them in the test. That would be a lot of fun to add.
@@WoodByWright Yes it would be interesting , I wouldn't mind a set of Japanese Chisels but a bit of an extravagance, or a dedicated set of mortice chisels .
Thanks for your research! My litmus test for a mallet driven chisel is that the steel goes from tip to butt. I want the force to be end to end direct not sent thru wood or plastic. If they can't get that part right I don't want the tool. Marple fills this requirement while most chisels don't
Awesome
One
Contracts on first. you are officially my favorite for today!
It dont called "2 cherrys" its called Kirschen!
It goes by both names. In the US it is branded as Two Cherries.
Berg beitels, de ouwe
Nooitgedagt is not a Swedish brand, but a Dutch brand, possably coming out of the Berg chissel factory in Sweden, but the brand is Dutch.
Nooitgedagt is a Dutch chisel, not a Swedish one.
Just have to put in a Your Mileage May Vary warning about the Narex Richters. I purchased a set from Taytools and Every. Single. One. had a convex belly for a back. And due to the hardness of the steel, they have been such a gigantic pain in the rear to flatten. They also have a little flex to them, lacking the geometry of the Lie-Nielsen or the old Stanley Sweetheart (the new ones also lack the shape that thickens toward the handle and so flex like the Richters).
They're that shape because there is a preference for thinner chisels that don't thicken towards the handle.
The old chissels are usually a nightmare to get a flat back in them. The E.A. Berg chissels are really a nightmare because the backs are sticking out in the middle, which is hard to get rid of, especially because they are hard as a rock.
Not short and sweet
Compared to the full one with all the data.