Top 5 3d Printing Tips For Beginners
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
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In this video, we go over 5 tips that I believe are the most important for someone that is new to 3d printing. This will really help to ensure you are set up for success. By following along and implementing the various tips covered in this video you will be prepared to get up and running much quicker with successful prints.
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how can someone be so informative while being so stylish
haha I do not consider myself to be stylish (quite a boring wardrobe) but I appreciate it nonetheless :D
From Adam Savage -- "The difference between screwing around and science is writing things down." Take notes! What worked? What didn't? What did I change to make it better (or worse)? I know, from my records, that certain kinds/colours of filament have more bed adhesion problems than others. Some kinds iof PLA want things hotter or cooler. Keep good notes. Develop your own checklists and use them! Just because it's a hobby doesn't mean you can't learn to do things better and easier.
Very valuable. So much of what I have done is from trial and error. To be perfectly honest with you this channel is a bit of my note taking. I have reverted back to my older videos to remember how I did something after time has passed.
I know Im randomly asking but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Houston Korbin Instablaster :)
SPOT ON!!!! I learned A LOT on my first printer (Anet A8 which I tried to upgrade before learning to use it, and FAILED). I got my 1st Ender 3 and ran it stock. It was great out of the box and helped me to learn a ton of information on how these things work. Most important things for me was 1. BED LEVEL 2. FAN AT 100% FOR PLA. 3. ALWAYS WATCH THE 1st LAYER!!!!!!!!!! Also, stick with ONE FILAMENT FROM THE SAME MANUFACTURER UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY COMFORTABLE/KNOWLEDGEABLE!!! That way, it'll help in troubleshooting any issues that may come up. WHEN you start making adjustments to your slicer or printer, DO ONE CHANGE AT A TIME!!!!! IF you make more settings and something works, you're less likely to know what variable affected it the most.
Threw a like for the skating analogy lol
Haha yes!! I appreciate it. I was like should I add it... but it was what I thought about right away.
@@ModBotArmy Dude. always. I do stuff like that at work to upper management. if spoken clearly, they don't really need to know anything about skating, or whatever your referencing. ya kno? but, I challenge you for more skating references lol Like print some skateboard stuff and make a video about it, maybe a bushing?
I’ll be 76 on the 24, I bought my first 3D printer a few weeks ago, I love it, Ender 3S1, did my own research and bought the Ender because it was on sale. Have printed 6-8 items, a benchy and the cat on the Ender SD card, and several items, all with good success. I just finished a iPad stand, took over 40 hours to print, supports were a real pain, broke the stand but it’s still very usable, could glue the broken piece on, but I think I’m just going to sand it where it broke, and I’ll be the only one that knows. I have so much to learn, even thinking about buying a second printer, maybe bigger, maybe better. I love your channel, have subscribed.
Got my printer 2 weeks ago. Probably the most sound skateboard analogy I've heard. Start from the basics. I want to print PETG, but I'm 60hrs deep into the PLA learning curve...
Make sure the bed is level and you have the right slicer settings. You can look up how to do these. If the print is not sticking to the bed, get an elmers glue stick and rub it on the bed. It will come off with windex.
Good and very important tips! I watched 3D printing videos at least for a month before I decided to buy a printer. I've had it little over a week now and it prints perfectly. Level the bed!
Hi ModBot, I like your videos.
You help newer people getting into the hobby and you also provide useful info for seasoned 3d printers(people). Thank you for being part of the community!
This comment made my day. Thank you so much for watching and for your incredibly kind feedback.
I wish I heard Tip #1 when I started out this year. I modded my Ender 3 Pro a month in and it literally rendered it useless for a month. Now I'm back up and running because I took out all the upgrades and ran everything stock. Slowly and surely I'll install those mods, but right now I'm just learning the basics
At least you were able to get it back up and running :)
I would recommend mod for ender 3 v2 for new user, but only mod bltouch / extruder.
Saw a post on facebook recently where a guy had listed the issues he has had and what he did to fix them.. All of them relating to the upgrade he added to fix the previous issue as he went.. had he addressed the fist issue none of them would have been needed.. and he was STILL looking for a hardware fix instead of listening to advice about settings..
Upgrade when you fully understand the hardware you have and KNOW the only way to improve is by an upgrade...
I agree with all of these, leveling and watching the first layer really go together. By watching the first layer you can spot leveling and Z offset problems. Another tip is to get a second printer. Many upgrades or improvements are made by printing some of the parts. I remember when I had only one, printing a new part and installing it and having to revert back to the original to make a small change - reprint and try again. I have 4 now and usually have one not working waiting on a part to be printed on another one.
Ooh, that is a great one. The amount of times I have seen say a hotend flood on a machine that no longer has parts and require printed parts to upgrade is high. If you have space and can afford to have even a second Ender 3 that is huge.
LOL I hear you... on the plus side, I can now remove and refit the hotend, fan cover and BLTouch with my eyes closed.. But finally got my mod working as intended..
Unfortunately some of us have limited funds and much though I want a second printer it is not something I can just buy when I wish, so trial, error, and dammit all to hell and back i will remove it, refit original and start again is currently a necessity :D
Thanks so much! Just getting started now.
Very good tips! 🙌
Thank you :)
Thanks for this I have my first printer (Ender 3 V2) on the way and have also heaps of upgrades coming too. Will definitely start with the out of box setup now after these great tips! Thanks!
I've been printing for 3 yrs or so & you, sir, nailed it!!
Awesome! Glad to know I am right on point. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
Thanks for this video.
Love the shout out to Braille :) So many of your shirt/brand choices make so much sense now :D
This is definitely a must watch for anyone new. I will be sharing this with all of my colleagues!
Awesome! Glad to hear that you thought it was valuable and also really appreciate the share.
Thank you for this
If you have a magnetic bed with PEI sheet, use a steel ruler or other known flat edge, and check for true flatness of your heated bed. If you find low spots, use clear packing tape in the low spots on your magnetic sheet under the PEI sheet. Shim with tape, and recheck. keep doing this until all the hills and valleys are fixed. It made a huge difference for my Good ole, modded Anet A8
Totally agree om the Bed leveling. When ever I have an issue with a print, 9 out of 10 times the bed needs leveling. And that usually does it!
Haha you and me both. Usually, it's too close or too far. This is why I always run skirts. It allows me to quickly see if I need to do any on the fly adjustments before the print starts. I feel like it saves time as well versus having the print start, discovering this, and having to re start the entire print.
Thanks for making this video!
Absolutely, thanks for watching.
Great tips, thanks for sharing.
Of course :)
Cool skate metaphor earned a sun and a like!
YES!!! Very good advice. I have had my printer for about a year and a half and I agree with all five. I upgraded my bearings out of the box to igus and they were so loose I thought my printer was crap, I didn’t know any different. My blocks don’t squeeze the bearings the way they are supposed to be. I changed a bunch of slicer settings to get my machine right. My laptop crashed and I had to start over from scratch with default settings, OMG! The printer worked better than ever. If not for the crash I would still be fighting it. Bed leveling, I have two Z axis steppers and one will slip a notch, time to re-level. Tip #6 don’t make your setup a rigid bed if you have two steppers. Didn’t do this but see a lot of it online and people complaining that their prints are wonky. First layer, heck yeah! Wife makes fun of me for watching it. I put 6 rings around my prints for two reasons, 1 I change types and manufacturers of filament on the regular and they don’t always get along even the same from different manufacturers especially PETG. I’ve had many prints foul up do to incompatibility. 2 bed leveling, it usually gives me time to level it more while it’s running those 6 passes. PLA is probably the best to start with. It’s consistent as long as you get decent stuff and not wet brittle crud because it’s cheaper. That little roll they send with most printers is okay most of the time but I would purchase a roll of decent filament to start off with. Transparent PLA is good because it lets you see a lot of issues you might not normally catch, too hot, too wet, infill issues, etc. It’s PLA, you can paint it later. I think I’ve gone on long enough
Haha I am happy to hear that the tips are definitely applicable. I also am sorry to hear that you had to learn the hard way on a few of them. With that being said you are wiser for going through it and coming out on top!
If you have the stock thin wire springs on your bed and you are having problems with levelling then change your springs for the stronger yellow ones and levelling the bed will become much easier and your bed will stay level, the stock springs will work ok for a few months but they will eventually lose their tension and bed levelling will become a pain
Great tip as well. I have noticed bed springs seem to be getting better but I have had quite a few printers with flimsy springs that do not hold for nearly as long.
FACT
Your first tip was something I was told, and I SWORE I was going to do...but panicked and caused HELL for myself.
If you're nerd enough to be 3D printing, you might be a D&D nerd too, and possibly watch Critical Role. If you're unfamiliar with it, go find a video of "Victor, the Gunpowder Merchant" from their first campaign. He has a line that is often repeated, "Learn from my mistakes!" Hence, I tell everyone, "RUN IT STOCK". At least for 10-20 prints.
I bought my machine in early Covid. Spent a couple months making space and cleaning the basement. Assembled it around the first of June 2020. Worked GREAT for several prints. Was so stoked. Then...I could NOT get it to level. Nothing I did worked. I'd spent all those months watching forums and reading the noob questions. I knew, "Level your bed", "Check your z-offset", "Calibrate your e-steps", "Check the flow rate". Nothing worked.
And...even though promised myself I wouldn't install them (as a friend said to run it stock too), I installed the BLTouch. Or tried to. Had to flash the board. That was hell enough. Still, couldn't get it to level once I DID get the board flashed. Checked every eccentric nut. Nothing. Then, while in the midst of my second or third near-sleepless night, I blearily looked and saw the x-gantry pulley wobbling. Fiddled with it for 15 minutes and...it got better.
Then, I found out the trick about putting locknuts on the bed screws because mine were spinning like a radio dial when I turned the leveling knobs. Fixed those too.
Worst thing was: I found out why I couldn't flash the board with the "you don't need an pin adapter" trick: my USB port was fried. So...I bought an SKR Mini. No need to flash.
But in the end: I know how to edit Marlin settings. I know where every stinking wire is in that machine. I know every wheel and when they're too tight too loose or the dry basement I'm in has caused the wheels to crack (good for filament, bad for wheels).
It was a crazy, crazy time, but the machine is finally -- after over six months -- doing what I want it to. I just wish I hadn't wasted so much time at the start and felt so utterly demoralized with the failures along the way.
Great video! Excellent tips for new users.
Thank you Corey!
That skateboard analogy was good haha
About bed leveling... Some printers come with manual, some come with auto out of the box... Both are good in some way, both are bad in some way. But, in my opinion, the best option is a printer that comes with manual bed leveling but you can put an auto level sensor on it as an upgrade. For example, the Kingroon KP3S and KP5L 3D printers. By the way, I started off with the KP3S and am planning to upgrade to the KP5L.
Good vid. I have been 3D printing for a year now and still learning all the time. In my mind leave your printer stock until part failure at that point and time upgrade. It the old saying don’t fix what’s not broken. For my slicer if you want something that is tuned well go and use Chep’s from Filament Friday. His are spot on!
Great tips. I really enjoy modding printers but I agree. If you do not need to change something then there is not a need to do it for the sake of it. Chep is great. Incredibly knowledgeable and just an all around awesome dude.
Good and solid advice! I recently purchased my Ender 3 Pro, and actually have been going along those lines with good results. On the bed leveling I would add that learning to manually level your bed helps you to find out whether your bed is flat or not. The bed on mine is slightly concave, so if the corners are set perfect, the center section is a tad high and I have to take that into account when printing on the center. That’s probably the biggest reason why I’m looking into getting a BLtouch. Also, it is more likely that the nozzle will clog, and that may happen over time, resulting in gradually worsening prints. Thanks for the video!
Good point, I have had quite a few printers come with warped beds or warp over time from heat and cool cycles. Although a bltouch can compensate for that warp it is worth noting that the part (At least its base) will warp with it. For most prints it is no biggie but it may not fly for certain functional parts with tight tolerances.
I just picked up the ender 3 max for the larger print area and picked up a cr touch auto leveling probe. Going to see how everything goes starting out then might upgrade to a direct drive
Thank you for your tips.
Thank you for watching :)
Hi :) Quality video and tips as usual!
Loved the PLA/Ollie analogy > Good idea for a T-Shirt :) You should go on with it and make a whole video on Material/Skateboard tricks equivalence based on complexity/style ;)
Personally I would ad "Clean/maintain your printer on a frequent basis + operate it in an environment with minimal dust"
Thank you for the feedback. Stoked that you and a few others like the skateboarding reference. Haha I need to take your advice with the amount of clutter and two dogs my poor machines can definitely use a better environment.
very helpful thanks somuch
Happy that is helped :)
Great info
🙌
Great video as always
And then check if the frame is square of the printer!
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks Asger. Always a treat to see your comment :)
I jist picked up my first printer the other day but haven't set it up yet. Ender 3 max. Will eventually get more but I figures the ender 3 max would be a good starting point and have the plus side of having a larger than average print area
I just got my first 3d printer and I’m looking for good tips
I have a tip that helped me alot with leveling and adhesion problems. I use an metal sheet gauge that is exactly 0.2mm thick.
The tipp is. Autohome the printer and lift your z axis 0.2mm and level it then. You could do that with paper too but paper is ~ 0.08mm thick, so you would need to lift 0.1mm for that.
The point of that is if you autohome and level with a sheet of paper your first layerhight will be off 0.08mm and you will see that in quality and bed adhesion very well.
Also your printer should have no play at all.
Second week of 3D printing here. The slicer is the key.
even after a few prints dont "set it and forget it." keep an eye on it through out the print.
I'm thinking about playing with a 3d printer. I have inherited a iiip printer that doesn't heat up much and seems to have the filament (it's very likely the stock filament, parents typically won't mess with stuff until they understand it well) and I was thinking of the ender printer you mentioned. Is that a good one to start with?
Another great video that will no doubt help a lot of new people to the hobby. Something I see too much of, is people assuming there can only be one right answer. So if you are having problems with something, dont assume the most popular opinion is always going to solve your problem. It probably will, but it might not, or there might be other options to consider.
Absolutely, I tell people all the time that I do not have all the answers. My goal is to provide my experience to hopefully help others come to their own conclusions. With most issues in 3d printing the cause can be a number of things. Thanks for the feedback :)
@@ModBotArmy That wasnt directed at you, you are great! Just something I see too much of when people ask for help. If you go on Reddit or a Facebook group and see people ask for help, for example "why are my prints not sticking?" 99% of everyones answer is always, "your bed isnt level". No one ever stops and asks what speed they are printing their first layer or what temps they are using or anything else like that.
So that was kinda directed at someone looking for help. If the first/popular answer dosnt work, it might be something else.
@@jon9947 I didn’t think it was directed at me :) I totally agree though. There are lots of settings, variables, and moving parts. The first answer is definitely not always the right one ☝️
Just get a voron if you like to Tinker a bit or but a bambulab x1 as a newbie.
Any tips for printing smaller pieces
hey man just go me a voxelab aqulia and having some problems ...but even thou im loving trying to figure it out can you give me a tip on what this printer setting should be ...i know it can very but something i can work off of..thank you.
I will say I did go str8 up put a CR Touch out of the box on my Ender 3 Max
Great tips as always! Question: would you rate PETG as the second best beginner filament after PLA? Also love Cura and for the life of me I've tried Prusa slicer 4 different times when ever a new upgrade would come out and I just can't get good prints. I'm sure its me and not the slicer but I'm staying with Cura:)
Yes! Usually, I say start with PLA and once you feel confident PETG is great. Much less warp than other materials, no need for an enclosure and adhesion is quite good. It can absorb moisture but I have only seen a handful of times that it has truly been problematic.
My FDM print just failed because I didn't pay attention to the first layer. Very useful tips. By the way will there also be tips about resin printing?
Hello i have been trying to print with PLA i have a Pulse 3d printer and i am printing on blue painters tape but i just cant seem to maker good prints and my job requires me to know to to print
my filament and filament cable pops out of the extruder and i get gaps in my prints any advice on how to succeed with pla and good settings as well?
For a beginner 3d printer, would you recommend starting off with a Prusa or Ender 3 v2?
i find that when i leval my bed with one sheet of 24 LB paper to the slight drag feel... when i re-test it ... it is now out of alignment.. are the springs shot.. because i am having layer shifts... also is printing in your COLD basement a problem... its just a lil colder than my living romm but it is a basement.. is the environment critical ?
i have an ender 3 pro, using stock everything (bought in Jan 2021). then started to get a lot of warping after about an hour into a 11 hours job. I also had a bad clog with the standard settings when i tried to PETG for the first time. Love the machine and want to be able to print with different materials successfully....lots of trials and errors.
Use a wide brim to prevent warping, about 10mm.
And use PLA, and run it around 210. No lower than 200. Seems the most user friendly to me.
Bed temperature and first layer..
Broken record time.. If the foundation is faulty the building collapses.. If the first layer is not perfect the model fails..
Laying down a 0.3mm initial layer puts more plastic on the bed, gives a better adhesion, and accommodates more variation in the print surface.. It easier to get a great first layer if its thicker, and there are no down sides I have found, it makes absolutely no difference to a printed model so if the rest is 0.1mm layers the model will be exactly the same as if you used a 0.1mm initial layer. A glass bed is considered the flattest, but they can vary across a 300mm bed by as much as 0.15mm!
Keep in mind that the temperature you set for your bed does not mean that is the temperature you get, it depends on the build surface.. For example if you have a creality glass bed, the actual temperature of the bed surface will be 10 to 12 degrees lower than what you set.. I followed manufacturers recommended bed temp and anything much bigger than a cali-cube started warping on the corners, when I dug out my infra red thermometer I discovered the temp discrepancy which fixed the issue.. With hindsight its obvious why its lower than setpoint, but I was fresh out of hindsight in the beginning.
I plan on getting a 3D printer someday. I want to make props and other items.
A Delta 100% unassembled kit is definitely a steep learning curve for the first printer
It’s not a sprint, it’s a journey. I just recently started printing with TPU for the very first time, and if I didn’t know what to look for, I probably would have said there is something wrong with the filament, instead of actually finding out that there is a problem with the printer’s extruder.
The Snapmaker 2.0 extruder doesn’t have a pressure adjustment, and it applies a great deal of pressure to the filament. So much pressure that the friction of the filament against the path causes it to stop moving. Once I realized what was happening, I simply opened the extruder door to remove the pressure, and then used a piece of Scotch tape to apply just the right amount of tension, and I had perfect prints.
My Ender 5 Plus, which has been upgraded to a dual gear direct drive, and an all-metal hot end, worked on the first try. I printed a plate of 48 tiny filament clips in TPU, that I can use on any filament roll w/o tweaking the filament to prevent it from unraveling. As you said, if I had not gotten it working as-is out of the box first, and then upgraded 1 thing at a time, this would have been a completely different story. The biggest upgrade to this printer so far, was getting the corrected firmware from Kersey Fabrications, which fixes the BL Touch offset issues. That fix was a MASSIVE change that I knew was needed, but was unable to do myself, as Creality doesn’t make it easy to find the information needed.
Have a great weekend! I’m finally down to finding the last piece that I need for continuing my Ender 5 Plus upgrades, which I will be filming and releasing in the future. Trying to deal with Creality directly is extremely difficult, but in the end will be best. I figured out a way to use parts that Creality is already manufacturing, along with other 3rd party components, to make some massive changes. I can’t wait to get it all working!
P.S. I really want to start using polypropylene as well, and it looks like that dream is going to be another massive game changer on this Ender 5 Plus 2.0. 😎
Hey man! Thanks for watching and for the feedback. Stoked to see the Ender 5 Plus with all of the upgrades and hope you had a great weekend. Regarding the Snapmaker that is really strange to hear about the extruder. I have heard good things about it overall. Would you say even with that you have been pretty happy with it??
@@ModBotArmy ASOLUTELY! I use it for anything that I am even remotely concerned about not being printed in an enclosure. I did have a platform issue, where I needed to flatten the platform, and then recently this issue with the extruder and TPU, but I consider them tiny blips. If you're familiar with Devon's Tippi-Tree, I printed a huge set on the Snapmaker 2.0 for my sister as a Christmas present. It turned out absolutely beautiful, where I printed the leaves using MatterHackers Build Series PETG transparent colors.
I have plans for the laser and CNC mill modules coming up, but so little time, and so much to do. I've been saving a lot of the packaging from Amazon, as I have laser plans for it. :)
My number one tip especially for people starting out is to use a 0.3mm initial layer height..
Even with a level bed you also need a bed with a very even surface to lay down a 0.1mm layer, or even a 0.2mm layer, Creality glass beds for example only guarantee a flatness of 0.15mm which means they could vary across the bed by more than the thickness of a quality profile in cura..
No one appears to address this and simply shout "level your bed" when often its not bed level as such, its the variation across it..
Yeah. I had an issue with my Ender 3 style printer where I couldn't get all 4 corners leveled 100% out of the box. I thought it was something I was doing. then I found out that the carborundum glass beds are never 100% flat and square from corner to corner and side to side. I got so fed up trying to level my printer that I was ready to quit printing. Then I got a PEI spring bed and haven't had trouble since.
@@matthewjbauer1990 Same same.. I had nothing but trouble with the glass, I even got it replaced and no better at all..
I got a textured PEI mag/ spring and no more problems, I got a pei sticker sheet for the flipside of the spring steel so I have smooth or texture options now..
Any tips for my bed i try to level it all around but the middle feels kinda high
is an ender 3 3d printer good enough for hobby projects
My number 1 tip for someone who wants to get into 3D printing is to not invest a lot of money into a printer and its ecosystem. Getting one of the many Creality Ender 3 clones is probably the way to go for many because you can be all in with the printer and starter filament for
#5 make a lot of sense. Since changing settings is always an experiment, it is doubly so if you are new. If you don't understand how the machine performs using defaults, troubleshooting changes is a nightmare. Changing 5 things at once makes it impossible. Which change caused the failure? Are you sure? Maybe none of them did and the machine has a hardware fault. How would you know?
For someone new to playing around with a slicer. I highly recommend researching the settings you plan on changing and then change it multiple times while running the same print. That way you can really understand what that value is having an effect on.
Can I print 4 benches at the same time with different settings to test things out in cura
Using an Elegoo Neptune 2s
Disagree with bed leveling. I bought a Ender 3 v2 and alway struggled getting the bed leveled manually then as soon as I added a BLTouch I've not had a single problem getting prints to stick to the bed! Definitely worth the £35 for a BLTouch.
just joined the discord
Sweet! Stoked to you have there.
I was planning to go all metal ASAP as we have birds and fish in the house and PTFE fumes can be really nasty on birds especially. How big of a learning curve is there switching to an all metal hot end?
What printer do you have and what hotend is it??
@@ModBotArmy I am about to order either the Ender 3 V2 or the 5 Pro. But I did not like the thought of any PTFE coming in contact with the nozzle. We do not use any non-stick pans in the house, only stainless and cast iron for this exact reason.
Both of those can use the micro Swiss hotend. I believe the v2 requires printing a new part but the Ender 5 plus will not need a printed part. You are the exception with having birds I can understand why you want to do that right away
@@ModBotArmy yes sir, both have micro swiss available. Now just need to decide between the 3 v2 or the 5 pro
tip 1 : 100% ..
tip # 3 first layer : 1000%!!
extra tip : make sure you select the right material in the slicer. I still forget to change the filament every now and then and then print PLA at 280 ;) and 100 bed ... guess the results)
Haha omg! I usually just use one profile and edit them live each time. It works fine for me because I dont change all that many parameters but absolutely this. PLA at PC settings will make for some interesting results :p
@@ModBotArmy print PETG at 190c, not a good result either ...
i bought my first 3d printing machine...ofc I forgot to buy a filament roll holder.
so you can just print one...my machine is too small for that.. cause i bought the cheapest crap on the market XD and it only prints 10x10x10.
so I'm currently using the biggest whiskey bottle I could find, and it works perfect for a filament holder once filled with water.
ever since i bought one though ive been wondering...
why does not everyone have one of these machines?
cause I'm already planning for a bigger one.
need something just print it :P
also there throwing away all the old models...and keeping the price at around 300....i got mine for 100.
this one used to be around 500 bucks, shame they keep the price high deliberately, by constantly introducing newer models.
but you can also get into trouble real quick, I could print some shit that illegal in this country, real easy.
you could just download a weapons or 2,or design one yourself.....wonder how there going to monitor people that do that.
cause they cant stop you...designing a 3d model of lets say a gun is not illegal ..just having one is.
just lookalikes is also forbidden in my country ( replicas that don't work),and are on the list.
you can threaten people with that...and also not allowed.
brass knuckles, also forbidden, and that would be a real easy print.
how are you going to monitor every printer in Europe for that!?
let say i export a model from call of duty or any other game, and print that.
smack on some color make it real size...and rob a store :P
anyone could do that.
Are those lack enclosures in the back?
yes! without side panels thoough
Old and dirty but yes haha. I made my own extenders to bolt them together and they have varying heights depending on the machine I originally planned to store in each
Wish I saw this first. Lol
Im Jewish and in the United States that is not exactly the most popular thing. I had trouble being able to find significant items to my worship but thanks to my ender 3 v2 ive been able to print everything i want / need. is it as nice as the metal versions? of course not but they still mean the world
Meet you your bed is level
I broke rule #1 because I got a bltouch because #2 sucks. 😐😭