Two years later this motor is going strong ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBZWgzfpS2Jj7JqIHyaSZjyVHNUgCKCBf Just uploaded a video of it after 2 years. We use it probably a dozen days each year on our small raft.-original review- We got this motor the other day and tested it out. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems good to me. It has all the features advertised - the motor housing is metal. We will see how it performs longer term and I will revise this review if needed. Some initial observations:- Good thrust, moves our boat around really well- It comes with a circuit breaker but no switch - so there's no way to kill the motor other than yanking the connection off the battery. I installed an inline switch.- The mount bracket is plastic and I worry it might break- There are a number of plastic parts that I worry about, but the most important ones are metal or some kind of composite
My first time Kayaking and this Kayak held strong. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4k5UrhC3v_Y4hIEaXLGvHcN5a5aBmZNB The water got pretty rough as a speed boat zipped by me, and the Kayak withstood it (I expected to be capsized). The Ores are very easy to put together, the pump worked beautifully. the seats are a bit hard to sit in after a while (I recommend sitting on the floor). after reading the reviews I was very scared it'd get a hole in it, the material is very strong and durable. The Air valve may need a small Phillips head screwdriver to adjust, other than that, it's well worth the money!(update)I've gone Kayaking in 3 Lakes and 2 rivers totaling about 40 miles. the kayak had two holes and they patched easily and no other problems can't wait for kayaking season this year!
Thank you for sharing definitely great video for a newbie like myself to kayak fishing! Feel very confident and comfortable doing this to my trolling motor once I pick it up! I also have a Old town sportsman’s 106 and it’s going to be even more awesome all over the lakes! Thank you from Massachusetts ✌️
I watched couples of your videos. Very good videos: clear voice, detailed step-by-step instructions as well as where to get parts. Thanks a lot Aksman.
Used basically the same idea several years ago, but used a compression fitting for the elbow. Wires ran through a wiring loom (SAE style) from Auto Supply store. Also went up a couple of wire gauges (8-Gauge) coming from the motor to switch, as I had to run them 7 feet away from motor. Used a Commercial Wiring Box (4x4) for switch and handle, so I'd have 5 forward and 3 reverse speeds (used the mounting track of my kayak to hold the box, along with toilet bolts that fit the track, with through bolts and knobs). Quick disassembly from kayak, as I made a motor mount that fit where the center pedal drive unit was. Only invested around $180 including the battery and trolling motor, but had to get rid of it 'caus of Fish and Game kept telling me I would get arrested the NEXT time I was caught out on the lake without registering my kayak. Had fun making it, and sold everything for $300 bucks to a guy that just HAD to HAVE it...! Lol...
You can put a momentary foot switch to turn your motor on and off which helps tremendously. I am contemplating cutting my troll motor and making some sort of control box but I’m not an electrician :) I am just using the head unit and an on/off switch with a steer stick and it works great. Nice video and thanks.
Nicely done video. This perfect idea for the new BlueSky 360 Angler. The trolling motor can be added to the front deck of the kayak to pull the boat through the water.
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb lost the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Hank Javion Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thanks for the great videos and ideas. I just did this to my new Bonafide 126 and used the original speed control handle mounted to the top of the gray box so it sticks up right beside the seat. Worked out great. If I could post pics here I would.
Thanks for sharing! Gave me some good ideas. I may even use a momentary foot switch to power the motor off and on while I fish. I had that on my bass boat and it worked slick.
Haha! Thanks Karl. Maybe you should subscribe so you don't get left behind! lol. I also have a FB page that makes it easier to share info if you are interested. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
Your 90 degree fitting is called a STREET ELBOW... Good job on the wire protection and upside down cut. I was going to order an extra speed control switch ($20 on ebay) and make it plug in the back with the speed control mounted on the right/inside of my yak with a shift lever pointing up as off, push forward to go forward and of course for reverse you pull back. was also thinking about a momentary on thumb button so the lever doesn't get turned on accidentally. Next issue was steering and raising the motor... On my yak is 3 feet behind me and i'd have to lay back and reach over my head to control the motor... After doing all this thinking and figuring... My kayak is actually a KIWI ANGLER PONTOON kayak.... I'm just going to make a simple bow mount, turn the head and use a small piece of rubber hose (As a U-Joint) to a piece of PVC as the extended handle.
This is great. I just bought this exact motor today for my Ascend FS12 and was wondering if I could do something like this and the switch box. Awesome tutorial, I'm sure I'll be watching a few more times.
Aksman No, Thank YOU! I did it yesterday.. I like how it looks, but need to make some minor tweaks. I'm also putting my switch in a conduit box like you've done in another video. I was able to find a small knob/switch @ Ace Hardware that has a set screw and holds perfectly. I've Sub'd to your page, as your innovation and inspiration is very helpful. Take care.
Love this design, especially with the change-over to a dial and switch box for use from the kayak's seat. I would love to use this design for a bow mount motor. However, wondering if you have videos for a bow mount. Am hoping you do, so I can see how you set up a steering system to be operated from the kayak seat.
Nice video on composite shaft t.m. I have been using aluminum or stainless steel 1" diameter shaft trolling motors and I use the head also it has built in light and battery voltage gauge ,I buy stainless steel 1" inside diameter fittings from a marine hardware store,,I have stayed away from composite because the shaft is metric size and will not fit ready to go hardware ,I can use composite shaft as long as I make a custom steering bracket,,and if the wiring is not marked I take a pic with my phone,,thanks for sharing your knowledge for the betterment of electric kayaks
Dude i have been to fogure put how to do this to my 50lb trollinf motor that used to be a bow mount. Now i can mske it into a rear transom mount and use kust the motor and shaft and pvc ! Ypu rock !!
The gloves are Nitrile not nitrate. The shaft can be cut with a metal tubing cutter with a lot less chance of nicking any wires. Good video otherwise. I installed a remote steering cable on mine so far.
I know this is an old video and but have you looked into using a 4 channel RF remote control relay switch? I have found myself watching so many of your videos and they are always so good. Thank you again!
There's really no need to disassemble the head/control unit. Just cut the shaft and the wires and preserve the head as the control. Just need additional wires to reconnect it.
Question: Can you build me one of those fancy boxes? And I really liked all of your ideas. I am planning on doing the same thing myself and the tips about the pipe and turning it upside down before you cut were great. Thanks!
@@Aksmaniyak lol damn. My idea has always been to buy a 55lb trolling motor, rig up a small throttle like a boat would have and a steering system so I don't have to use the handle like that. Maybe like a footpaddle boat would have for the rudder/motor. Been searching ideas, your video definitely helped though. I'm trying to learn all the logistics of wiring and how to set it up on my kayak.
So I have a question. What wiring did you use to run the wire to the box you made. The box I assume would be up front near you , the wiring isn’t that long, so did you splice?
Great video very helpful I have two questions 1) The cables to connect with the speed control box cab can I make longer maybe a four feet long 2) I want to do it with a different motor brand a Newport Vessels is the same configuration ?
Thanks Tito. Yes you can extend the wires as long as you use the same or larger gauge size. I have also done this to a Newport Vessels tm. They are set up in the same way.
why wouldn't you use a tubing cutter, faster and easy to cut the shaft,and use a dremal tool to grind out the pvc 90 to fit the shaft?just a thought...
I tried using a pipe/tube cutter but it did not work well on the non-metallic composite shaft. If you have actually tried to do that you would understand what I mean. I prefer to heat up PVC to fit instead of grinding it and losing its strength.
Ok. Would I just be able to cut the shaft and extend the wiring through a tube and just attached the handle near the kayak chair? This is rather impressive with the remote and controller and I do not have easy access to the controller.
In your PWM video it looks like all I need to get is the module in your video and hook the wiring up? that automatically connects somehow to the remote or is there something else that does that? Sorry in advance if dumb question, electronics is definitely not my strong suit.. Thanks for all you videos ive looked at most...Ken in Oakley CA Cheers.....keep the great vids coming
Thanks Ken. Yes, all you need to do is connect your power source (battery) to the unit and then connect the pos (+), neg (-) wires to the trolling motor. The remote is already wired up to the main unit. It is a very good PWM and easy to hook up.
How did decide the length you need? Was it from under the kayak motor prop should be fully exposed to water coming or half of it can be covered by kayak
Would you be able to help advise me on how to mount a bow mount on a trolling motor shaft? Do I have to remove the head unit and thread the wires through? Thanks.
Your videos are awesome brother. Quick question, I have a Malibu X-13, and I'm looking for a trolling motor, I love these inexpensive Minn Kotas but I fish mainly saltwater, any recommendations? Would these last if I rinse them with fresh water after every trip?
Thanks Nick. I like the Newport Vessels trolling motors over Minn Kota. NV motors are built and rated for fresh and salt water and come stock with a 3 blade prop. They are also less expensive than MK. Check them out and let me know if you have any more questions.
Great detailed info thanks for sharing. Curious what was the total cost of your Trolling motor build? I've seen the Minikota Trolling motor at Academy Sports for $95
Hey Aksmaniyak, I plan on doing this same mod with my Minn Kota c2 30. Since the speed control wires only go so far out of the shaft, I would need to extend the 4 wires about 4 feet to my kayak seat. Should I match the wires' gauge for the extension?
@@Aksmaniyak The manual says extending the wires on the c2 30 might affect the performance. Have you ever noticed any sort of performance changes using this mod?
Do you have a trolling motor recommendation? I was going to go with the Minn Kota unit with 30 pound thrust (30" shaft), but would like a bit more thrust. All the Minn Kota models with higher ratings have the 36" shaft, which is a bit long for my canoe. Other brands have the specs I want, but not sure of the quality, etc. I just want a good quality unit. :)
I have a question. When drilling a larger hole for let's say a quick connect port, do space bits work well or is there a certain type of bit that works better?
Hello I'm wondering if you wanted to make a single speed unit could you just run power directly to the motor through a switch? Or is there more to it than that. Thank you for the help I've got my own little project I'm working on looks like you did a great job
If you mean the yellow and white wires, I capped them off and put them back in the shaft. I didn't want to clip them too short in case I needed them later.
Aksman, I do really like your sharing for mods, etc. I have a 24lb. Watersnake, but I want to make the shaft longer. Do you have any advise? I usually find you on FB Kayak DIY Projects. cheers.
Would the procedure be about the same with a bow trolling motor? Not sure if it is a min though, but dang it is way to long for transom work on a little rubber boat.
Thank You, I was wanting to use a corded SO wire but all 4 wires are the same size making the OD of the cord just to large, I guess I'll have to figure out a wire covering of some sort and use wire sizes like you did. I did use a 2 screw 1/2" plastic LB on top of the motor shaft so the wire nuts will also be in closed on the motor end like in the hand held control box. Nice job and Thanks Again for the information, Gary
Two years later this motor is going strong ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBZWgzfpS2Jj7JqIHyaSZjyVHNUgCKCBf Just uploaded a video of it after 2 years. We use it probably a dozen days each year on our small raft.-original review- We got this motor the other day and tested it out. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems good to me. It has all the features advertised - the motor housing is metal. We will see how it performs longer term and I will revise this review if needed. Some initial observations:- Good thrust, moves our boat around really well- It comes with a circuit breaker but no switch - so there's no way to kill the motor other than yanking the connection off the battery. I installed an inline switch.- The mount bracket is plastic and I worry it might break- There are a number of plastic parts that I worry about, but the most important ones are metal or some kind of composite
7 years later still the best instructional video on youtube for a kayak trolling motor. Oldtown finally caught up to the DIY OG engineer.
Quite a compliment. Thanks!
My first time Kayaking and this Kayak held strong. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4k5UrhC3v_Y4hIEaXLGvHcN5a5aBmZNB The water got pretty rough as a speed boat zipped by me, and the Kayak withstood it (I expected to be capsized). The Ores are very easy to put together, the pump worked beautifully. the seats are a bit hard to sit in after a while (I recommend sitting on the floor). after reading the reviews I was very scared it'd get a hole in it, the material is very strong and durable. The Air valve may need a small Phillips head screwdriver to adjust, other than that, it's well worth the money!(update)I've gone Kayaking in 3 Lakes and 2 rivers totaling about 40 miles. the kayak had two holes and they patched easily and no other problems can't wait for kayaking season this year!
Thanks Jason.
Definitely the best DIY trolling motor vid on here. Thanks for breaking it down!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Thank you for sharing definitely great video for a newbie like myself to kayak fishing! Feel very confident and comfortable doing this to my trolling motor once I pick it up! I also have a Old town sportsman’s 106 and it’s going to be even more awesome all over the lakes! Thank you from Massachusetts ✌️
I watched couples of your videos. Very good videos: clear voice, detailed step-by-step instructions as well as where to get parts. Thanks a lot Aksman.
Thanks Steve.
Used basically the same idea several years ago, but used a compression fitting for the elbow. Wires ran through a wiring loom (SAE style) from Auto Supply store. Also went up a couple of wire gauges (8-Gauge) coming from the motor to switch, as I had to run them 7 feet away from motor.
Used a Commercial Wiring Box (4x4) for switch and handle, so I'd have 5 forward and 3 reverse speeds (used the mounting track of my kayak to hold the box, along with toilet bolts that fit the track, with through bolts and knobs). Quick disassembly from kayak, as I made a motor mount that fit where the center pedal drive unit was.
Only invested around $180 including the battery and trolling motor, but had to get rid of it 'caus of Fish and Game kept telling me I would get arrested the NEXT time I was caught out on the lake without registering my kayak.
Had fun making it, and sold everything for $300 bucks to a guy that just HAD to HAVE it...! Lol...
You can put a momentary foot switch to turn your motor on and off which helps tremendously. I am contemplating cutting my troll motor and making some sort of control box but I’m not an electrician :) I am just using the head unit and an on/off switch with a steer stick and it works great. Nice video and thanks.
Thanks! The only thing I don't like about momentary switches is that you can only set it to a constant speed.
Another pure joy, I have no idea how this one skipped my radar before. love your work, love your vids, love your attitude.
Thanks Eldad.
Nicely done video. This perfect idea for the new BlueSky 360 Angler. The trolling motor can be added to the front deck of the kayak to pull the boat through the water.
Thanks Stephen.
I shortened my trolling motor and used a pipe cutter for the cut off
Finally a video about the wires!!! Thank you soooooooo much!!
Glad I could help.
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Jonas Ezequiel Instablaster ;)
@Hank Javion Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Hank Javion it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
Thanks for the great videos and ideas. I just did this to my new Bonafide 126 and used the original speed control handle mounted to the top of the gray box so it sticks up right beside the seat. Worked out great. If I could post pics here I would.
Your are welcome Pat. Glad it worked for you.
Pat Kinsel Can you send me the mod you did for the speed control? E
Hey do you have a Facebook with pics?
Very helpful tips on cutting and turning the motor upside down. Nice job 👍🏼
Thanks!
That's a great tip. Inserting a tube inside the shaft to not damage the wires. Thanks
You are welcome.
Thanks for sharing! Gave me some good ideas. I may even use a momentary foot switch to power the motor off and on while I fish. I had that on my bass boat and it worked slick.
Thanks David. That is an option too.
How to shorten the shaft was very helpful.
Thanks!
Visiting this video 5 years too late. Very nice!
Haha! Thanks Karl. Maybe you should subscribe so you don't get left behind! lol. I also have a FB page that makes it easier to share info if you are interested. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
Good video. Putting the second piece of pipe up the shaft was brilliant.
Thanks Bryan.
i don't think you could have made this any simpler! thanks a lot. i will definitely try this now.
You're welcome.
Your 90 degree fitting is called a STREET ELBOW... Good job on the wire protection and upside down cut.
I was going to order an extra speed control switch ($20 on ebay) and make it plug in the back with the speed control mounted on the right/inside of my yak with a shift lever pointing up as off, push forward to go forward and of course for reverse you pull back. was also thinking about a momentary on thumb button so the lever doesn't get turned on accidentally. Next issue was steering and raising the motor... On my yak is 3 feet behind me and i'd have to lay back and reach over my head to control the motor...
After doing all this thinking and figuring... My kayak is actually a KIWI ANGLER PONTOON kayak.... I'm just going to make a simple bow mount, turn the head and use a small piece of rubber hose (As a U-Joint) to a piece of PVC as the extended handle.
Oh yeah... I may shorten the shaft too.
Nice. Sounds like you have it figured out. Let me know when you finish.
another great diy video with all the necessary details. thanks
Thanks Curtis.
Wow, very cool in DIY modificatn on yur trolling motor. Thx 4 sharing on the internet.
You are welcome John.
This is great. I just bought this exact motor today for my Ascend FS12 and was wondering if I could do something like this and the switch box. Awesome tutorial, I'm sure I'll be watching a few more times.
Thanks Ryan. You will really like a trolling motor on your kayak.
Your videos are amazing. I feel like I can do this on my Ascend 128T! Thanks for the inspiration!
You are welcome Rex.
Aksman No, Thank YOU! I did it yesterday.. I like how it looks, but need to make some minor tweaks. I'm also putting my switch in a conduit box like you've done in another video. I was able to find a small knob/switch @ Ace Hardware that has a set screw and holds perfectly. I've Sub'd to your page, as your innovation and inspiration is very helpful. Take care.
Anytime!
Good work! You explain very well! Thanks,
Rich.
Thanks Rich.
Love this design, especially with the change-over to a dial and switch box for use from the kayak's seat. I would love to use this design for a bow mount motor. However, wondering if you have videos for a bow mount. Am hoping you do, so I can see how you set up a steering system to be operated from the kayak seat.
Thanks Alan. I have used bow mounted trolling motors but only with wireless remotes.
tks for the hack for putting the emt inside before cutting , screwed up one doing this all ready , , with out the emt guard in side,lol
You are welcome Chris. Sometimes mistakes make the best teaching lessons.
Absolutely loved the video and the detailed description.
Thanks Anthony.
Newport Vessels sells a 24" kayak trolling motor that is a 36 lb thrust and saltwater rated for $139. It is an awesome motor. Good video though!
Thanks. I see where some companies are now offering shortened TMs.
Man... You have some gems!! Great content!! Thanks
Thanks!
Appreciate the video just bought 3 kayaks
Thank you Paul.
outstanding instructional video. you have a knack and should do plenty more!
Thanks Paul. I like to keep my videos clear and concise. I do have other videos that you might like.
Nice video on composite shaft t.m. I have been using aluminum or stainless steel 1" diameter shaft trolling motors and I use the head also it has built in light and battery voltage gauge ,I buy stainless steel 1" inside diameter fittings from a marine hardware store,,I have stayed away from composite because the shaft is metric size and will not fit ready to go hardware ,I can use composite shaft as long as I make a custom steering bracket,,and if the wiring is not marked I take a pic with my phone,,thanks for sharing your knowledge for the betterment of electric kayaks
Thanks Verdell.
Agree with nolidge 1016.Definitely best DIY.Thanks for sharing (y)
Thank you Johan.
Dude i have been to fogure put how to do this to my 50lb trollinf motor that used to be a bow mount. Now i can mske it into a rear transom mount and use kust the motor and shaft and pvc ! Ypu rock !!
Glad this helped. Keep us posted with your progress.
Aksman Will Do ! Just need ro make foot pedals. I have a bass raider type 2 man pontoon boat
You can buy a pair of Attwood foot rails from Walmart for less than $20. They work great for slider steering.
Man! You've made this easy!
Glad to help.
Excellent video. Left no questions. I hope I can find a video on how you mounted it and used it. ie: turning ?
Thanks Tim. I do have videos that explain how to attach motors and make foot pedal steering for kayaks.
Well done. Informative and to the point.
Thanks Donald.
Smart idea on the metal tube
Thanks.
Very good video and a clean job.
Thanks Alan.
Great instructional video!
Thanks!
The gloves are Nitrile not nitrate. The shaft can be cut with a metal tubing cutter with a lot less chance of nicking any wires. Good video otherwise. I installed a remote steering cable on mine so far.
I know this is an old video and but have you looked into using a 4 channel RF remote control relay switch? I have found myself watching so many of your videos and they are always so good. Thank you again!
Thanks again. I have looked into wireless remotes but I didn't like the constant adjustments that had to be made. It took away my hands free concept.
This is what I need ,thank you..
You are welcome Luis.
Can you make an updated version of this setup or something like this. A lot of your videos are great put to complicated.
I make my videos as simple to understand as possible. This is one of my most popular videos.
great video, thank you
You are welcome.
There's really no need to disassemble the head/control unit. Just cut the shaft and the wires and preserve the head as the control. Just need additional wires to reconnect it.
True and I have done that before. However, this box is more compact than the head unit allowing for many placements.
Aksman oh ok.some people like me are not good with electronics lol. I would just keep the head unit and place it on the side or under the seat. :)
It works fine like that. I did it on my first kayak.
Great tutorial !!!
Thanks Billy!
Great mod! Thanks!
Glad to help!
That is awesome, I plan on doing this. I just subscribed. I hope my channel has as good of content as you have on here. Keep the videos coming
Thanks!
Very professional ....! thanks
Thanks Earnie.
Question: Can you build me one of those fancy boxes? And I really liked all of your ideas. I am planning on doing the same thing myself and the tips about the pipe and turning it upside down before you cut were great. Thanks!
Thank you. I don't build/sell the boxes because I can't warranty the parts.
@@Aksmaniyak lol damn. My idea has always been to buy a 55lb trolling motor, rig up a small throttle like a boat would have and a steering system so I don't have to use the handle like that. Maybe like a footpaddle boat would have for the rudder/motor. Been searching ideas, your video definitely helped though. I'm trying to learn all the logistics of wiring and how to set it up on my kayak.
@@xjcrossx Thanks. There is a person in this FB group that has modified a paddle boat. It may help you. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
Thanks for this video. Great info and well explained. I have subscribed to see more 👍
Thanks Jason. Merry Christmas.
Well done sir, well done.
Thanks!
3/4 cpvc 90 fix’s great
Thanks Darrell. Check out one of my latest videos for a new shaft wiring cap design.
wonderful teacher keep it up very informative
Thanks Larry.
Hi, what is the yellow and white wire coming out of the shaft.? Thought it would just be red and black for power? Thx
It has to do with the speed changing. You only use the red/black with a PWM or ESC.
@@Aksmaniyak thanks man
@@corefishing4858 You are welcome.
So I have a question. What wiring did you use to run the wire to the box you made. The box I assume would be up front near you , the wiring isn’t that long, so did you splice?
Yes, I added 10G for the pos/negs and 14G for the white/yellow wires.
Great video very helpful I have two questions 1) The cables to connect with the speed control box cab can I make longer maybe a four feet long 2) I want to do it with a different motor brand a Newport Vessels is the same configuration ?
Thanks Tito. Yes you can extend the wires as long as you use the same or larger gauge size. I have also done this to a Newport Vessels tm. They are set up in the same way.
why wouldn't you use a tubing cutter, faster and easy to cut the shaft,and use a dremal tool to grind out the pvc 90 to fit the shaft?just a thought...
I tried using a pipe/tube cutter but it did not work well on the non-metallic composite shaft. If you have actually tried to do that you would understand what I mean. I prefer to heat up PVC to fit instead of grinding it and losing its strength.
I assume most people have a hacksaw in their garage but not a tube cutter.
Very true.
Excellent tutorial!!!! Curious... what battery are you running?
Thanks. I'm using a group 24 80 AH.
Nice video, learned a lot
Thanks Andrew.
Ok. Would I just be able to cut the shaft and extend the wiring through a tube and just attached the handle near the kayak chair?
This is rather impressive with the remote and controller and I do not have easy access to the controller.
You can remove the head, mount near the seat, and extend the wiring.
@@Aksmaniyak I appreciate the reply, truly.
You are welcome.
In your PWM video it looks like all I need to get is the module in your video and hook the wiring up? that automatically connects somehow to the remote or is there something else that does that? Sorry in advance if dumb question, electronics is definitely not my strong suit.. Thanks for all you videos ive looked at most...Ken in Oakley CA Cheers.....keep the great vids coming
Thanks Ken. Yes, all you need to do is connect your power source (battery) to the unit and then connect the pos (+), neg (-) wires to the trolling motor. The remote is already wired up to the main unit. It is a very good PWM and easy to hook up.
For the four controlling wires a need a connector to plug in the Kayak, do you know were to purchase ? Thanks
I answered with a link in your other message.
How did decide the length you need? Was it from under the kayak motor prop should be fully exposed to water coming or half of it can be covered by kayak
The prop should be at least 2-3 inches below the surface with calm conditions.
Thank you for responding
Would you be able to help advise me on how to mount a bow mount on a trolling motor shaft? Do I have to remove the head unit and thread the wires through? Thanks.
Very helpful vid but where can I find connectors to extend the white and yellow wires or colors doesn’t matter? Thanks!
Thank you. Any marine or auto supply store should have the connectors.
thx this helped so much great vid
You are welcome Aundria.
Your videos are awesome brother. Quick question, I have a Malibu X-13, and I'm looking for a trolling motor, I love these inexpensive Minn Kotas but I fish mainly saltwater, any recommendations? Would these last if I rinse them with fresh water after every trip?
Thanks Nick. I like the Newport Vessels trolling motors over Minn Kota. NV motors are built and rated for fresh and salt water and come stock with a 3 blade prop. They are also less expensive than MK. Check them out and let me know if you have any more questions.
Great detailed info thanks for sharing. Curious what was the total cost of your Trolling motor build? I've seen the Minikota Trolling motor at Academy Sports for $95
Thanks Benjamin. Amazon and Walmart were at $93.
Hey Aksmaniyak, I plan on doing this same mod with my Minn Kota c2 30. Since the speed control wires only go so far out of the shaft, I would need to extend the 4 wires about 4 feet to my kayak seat. Should I match the wires' gauge for the extension?
That should be fine.
@@Aksmaniyak The manual says extending the wires on the c2 30 might affect the performance. Have you ever noticed any sort of performance changes using this mod?
No, that is just a disclaimer by Minn Kota.
@@Aksmaniyak Okay 👍 Thanks for the reply and videos. Cheers
Very nice my next project thank you sir
You are welcome.
FYI you probably could’ve used a tubing cutter/pipe cutter to cut that better rather than a hacksaw.
Actually, a pipe cutter does not work well with composite shafts.
Very well done.
Thanks James.
Do you have a trolling motor recommendation? I was going to go with the Minn Kota unit with 30 pound thrust (30" shaft), but would like a bit more thrust. All the Minn Kota models with higher ratings have the 36" shaft, which is a bit long for my canoe. Other brands have the specs I want, but not sure of the quality, etc. I just want a good quality unit. :)
Newport Vessels and Haswing are good motors.
I have a question. When drilling a larger hole for let's say a quick connect port, do space bits work well or is there a certain type of bit that works better?
Spade bits work well with large holes.
Thank you. Got some spade bit but kept worrying that auger bits may be better. Much appreciated!
@@jonschroedinger8360 You are welcome.
Would a couple sturdy brackets and a small Morse cable work for steering with the original head
Hello I'm wondering if you wanted to make a single speed unit could you just run power directly to the motor through a switch? Or is there more to it than that. Thank you for the help I've got my own little project I'm working on looks like you did a great job
Thank you Bryan. You could run it through a switch but it would be full speed on and off.
Aksman,
Thanks for the help, in my situation I think that would be fine, I'll run it in a simple momentary button.
I want to shorten the shaft (same motor), but I want to put the head back on it. What do you suggest for the extra wire length??
You can wrap it up in the head or cut it short and use new connectors.
What kiind switch is it? Trying to find out what i need to buy.
That's what I was thinking of doing and just mount the head of the trolling moter under my seat if that's possible
Yes, I have done that before. I added a section of PVC pipe in the head with a RAM ball. I used a RAM mount to attach it to the hull.
good job!
Thanks!
Hey, what did you do with the excess length of cables to the head unit?
If you mean the yellow and white wires, I capped them off and put them back in the shaft. I didn't want to clip them too short in case I needed them later.
Aksman, I do really like your sharing for mods, etc. I have a 24lb. Watersnake, but I want to make the shaft longer. Do you have any advise? I usually find you on FB Kayak DIY Projects. cheers.
Thanks. I did make a video for extending a TM shaft using PVC pipe.
Hi Askmaniac, I was wondering- do you attach black and red wire to the control box? And if so, where?
The black is for the power negative and the red is for power positive.
Can you shorten it but still use the original steering shaft afterwards instead of making a new speed control box?
Hi Frank. Yes, you can use the original head unit as your speed controller and move it to a new position.
Heat shrink the 4 wires out of the head? May help keep the chair foot from leaking.
You could but the rubber chair foot doesn't leak if you drill a snug hole.
Would the procedure be about the same with a bow trolling motor? Not sure if it is a min though, but dang it is way to long for transom work on a little rubber boat.
The procedure should be the same for shortening the shaft.
Nice job
Thanks Rob.
wow,..your pretty handy,...I like how you think ahead. :-)
Thanks. I try to anticipate any problems or issues that might come up in
a project. It can save a lot of time and money sometimes.
....but Mostly, "Frustration" (lol)
Question have you tried to just extend the wires and uses the head of the trolling moter instead of that box with the switch
Yes.
What size wire did you use for extending the motor wires to the new control box, I am assuming the wires need to be extended 6 or 8 ' Thank You
Thank You, I was wanting to use a corded SO wire but all 4 wires are the same size making the OD of the cord just to large, I guess I'll have to figure out a wire covering of some sort and use wire sizes like you did. I did use a 2 screw 1/2" plastic LB on top of the motor shaft so the wire nuts will also be in closed on the motor end like in the hand held control box. Nice job and Thanks Again for the information, Gary
You are welcome Gary.
Couldn't you have used the head after the cutting process say if you wanted to mount it on a jon boat?
Sure you could do that. I used a controller box and PWMs that are smaller and more efficient.
Aksman what of you take of the propeller amd put in a bigger one from 15 hp would it go faster ???
I do not believe so. It may increase thrust but each motor has a top speed based on the kayak and water/weather conditions.
what'd you do with the remaining two initial control wires? just electrical tape the ends?
I put liquid electrical tape on the exposed ends. Then I pushed them back into the shaft in a loop and I zip tied all 4 together.
@@Aksmaniyak awesome man! never knew liquid electrical tape even existed! thankyou for the quick response!
@@kennethmiller590 You are welcome!
Would a plumbing tube cutter work? No debris. No damage to wires.
They don't work very well on composite shaft material.
I want to do this with 2 C2 trolling motors. I want to run them them off the same speed controller.
I have never tried that and don't know if it is possible.
Nice video. You told us what you did and how you did your mod. but didn't show us the actual process.
I try to keep the videos short and concise when I can.
Do you have to break the top part off??? Mines not coming off 🧐🧐🧐
Do you mean the original head unit?
Aksman never mind I’m blind 😂😂😂 missed a screw. Thanks though.