Nice job,, well made vedio,, I have 6 atlas lathes I've restored was looking for a Atlas horizontal mill but came across a small number 0 Sheldon horizontal mill and glad I did, in great working condition, 20 cutters and end Mill holder,, all no 9 brown and Sharp taper,, love it. All for 300 dollars.
Great video. I need to make a few of these myself for my Atlas mill. I'm curious tho... I noticed your gauge moved about 5 thou when you went from right to left, then back, in the video (at 5:31) even though you had the taper attachment set. My lathe does the same. There must be some play somewhere in the carriage, but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts? Also, I would have finished the end-mill bore after 12:17. It's already running true in the spindle, then flip it and finish the threads for the drawbar at the very end. Thanks again for sharing.
Good idea! Right after I made the video, the holder got stuck in the spindle and I really had to whale on the end of it with a brass rod to knock it free. It's amazing how well a Morse taper will grip something.
That is funky. Why not use the MT2 tapered collet sets. I do for my M head Bridgeport. They are very affordable. I also have a MT2 adapter for ER 30 collets.
I use MT2 in my M head and in my Kearney and Trecker midgetmill as well.. They hold like a bear for sure and with a collet,, you are closer to the spindle bearings for added rigidity....Cheers from Louisiana, Mike
@Liberty Cave Thanks, I'll have to give them a try. With a horizontal mill, there are occasions when you need the extended reach of an end mill holder like this though, so I think there's a use for both types.
@@MrHarvard88 An end mill held in an MT2 collet is too short for some milling operations on the Atlas mill. I have MT2 collets and end-mill holders and use them both depending on the work piece position. I made end mill holders that screw onto the spindle - another option.
@@skypiratesrcclub6436 Yep, that's what I was trying to say in my reply. I hadn't though about making a holder that screws on to the spindle, but I may make one like that for shell end mills.
Tiny boring bar to finish the hole will make it more true than a reamer... Reamer will tend to follow the drilled hole that can have runout in it.....Cheers from Louisiana....Mike
I wanted to use a boring bar, but all the ones I saw that were small enough to bore a 3/8" hole only had a reach of about 1", not long enough for this project.
@@MrHarvard88 It is difficult to accurately bore a small diameter hole. Small boring bars lack rigidity. Best to bore a few mils small then ream to the final diameter.
Good work !
What a super idea from Mr. Pete using the taper on the reamer that way!
Good video. Good Luck, Rick
Nice job,, well made vedio,, I have 6 atlas lathes I've restored was looking for a Atlas horizontal mill but came across a small number 0 Sheldon horizontal mill and glad I did, in great working condition, 20 cutters and end Mill holder,, all no 9 brown and Sharp taper,, love it. All for 300 dollars.
Great video. I need to make a few of these myself for my Atlas mill. I'm curious tho... I noticed your gauge moved about 5 thou when you went from right to left, then back, in the video (at 5:31) even though you had the taper attachment set. My lathe does the same. There must be some play somewhere in the carriage, but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts?
Also, I would have finished the end-mill bore after 12:17. It's already running true in the spindle, then flip it and finish the threads for the drawbar at the very end. Thanks again for sharing.
Very nice arbor. Great work. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
Very nice video. When I make holders I drill the draw bar hole all the way through so that if a tool gets stuck, I can drift it out. Just a thought.
Good idea! Right after I made the video, the holder got stuck in the spindle and I really had to whale on the end of it with a brass rod to knock it free. It's amazing how well a Morse taper will grip something.
Excellent work Sir.....
Thank you! I'm a fan of your channel and have watched several of your videos on your Atlas lathe and milling machine. Cheers!
That is funky. Why not use the MT2 tapered collet sets. I do for my M head Bridgeport. They are very affordable. I also have a MT2 adapter for ER 30 collets.
I use MT2 in my M head and in my Kearney and Trecker midgetmill as well.. They hold like a bear for sure and with a collet,, you are closer to the spindle bearings for added rigidity....Cheers from Louisiana, Mike
@Liberty Cave Thanks, I'll have to give them a try. With a horizontal mill, there are occasions when you need the extended reach of an end mill holder like this though, so I think there's a use for both types.
@@MrHarvard88 An end mill held in an MT2 collet is too short for some milling operations on the Atlas mill. I have MT2 collets and end-mill holders and use them both depending on the work piece position. I made end mill holders that screw onto the spindle - another option.
@@skypiratesrcclub6436 Yep, that's what I was trying to say in my reply. I hadn't though about making a holder that screws on to the spindle, but I may make one like that for shell end mills.
Tiny boring bar to finish the hole will make it more true than a reamer... Reamer will tend to follow the drilled hole that can have runout in it.....Cheers from Louisiana....Mike
I wanted to use a boring bar, but all the ones I saw that were small enough to bore a 3/8" hole only had a reach of about 1", not long enough for this project.
@@MrHarvard88 That's when you get creative with hi speed steel or a piece of hi speed silver brazed onto a tiny shank....Cheers
@@MrHarvard88 It is difficult to accurately bore a small diameter hole. Small boring bars lack rigidity. Best to bore a few mils small then ream to the final diameter.
I like your style! Why buy something when you can make it yourself. Nice video
Thanks! 👍