That's exactly what it means. That is the bias voltage. The ECM sends a small voltage (each manufacturer uses a different voltage) to the KS and expects it dropped down. This ECM analysis is used to generate a faulty code.
I got a check engine light in my 1997 Subaru Impreza. It's a knock sensor code. There is a HUGE difference in acceleration when the check engine light (for the knock sensor) is on than when it's off.
On most systems when you disconnect a sensor, the ECM substitutes values and goes into limp-in-mode. It is almost impossible to know how the ECM is programmed and how it will react to a disconnect. On most systems a KS disconnect will cause no issues, but hard to know on your vehicle. One thing you could do is erase codes and run the car. If momentarily acceleration is back , then try replacing the KS. With codes erased the ECM will revert to normal operation just for a while. THanks for posting
Now the question we’ve all been asking...should it be replaced with a $150-300 Factory part, a $50-100 name brand aftermarket part or a $20 no-name part?
On critical electronic parts such as this, it is highly recommended to spend more for the original part. Aftermarket sensors are known to fail much sooner or not produce the required measurements for the ECU. You'll wind up paying for labor twice.
@FernterPix Hello, well in your case the answer is no. On Nissans the knock sensor has an effect on timing, but not enough to cause hesitation. On other makes it is possible. It sounds like an ignition problem. Do a power brake test. Set parking brake on, step on brakes hard, set trans in drive and goose the accel pedal for up to 5 seconds (not longer). If hesitation is detected then suspect ignition problem. Post abck with more...
@arubin22 Knock sensor is always screwed to the engine block. The knock is a microphone tuned to the engine ping frequency. Do a google on it. It may be in the V valley on a V-6 engine or at the side of the engine block on a 4 bangger...
It is possible and the only reason for that is so that each KS serves each bank of cylinders. I will research this and post more on the matter. Thanks for posting.
@UNRE4D48LE That's right, some Impresas do have that issue. The best way to tell if know sensor input has a severe impact on timing is to disconnect it and drive the car. If it feels very sluggish then the ECM programming places a lot of emphasis on knock. Thanks for posting.
On some cars, if knock is detected, the ECU/ECM will put the car into a limp-home mode to stop you revving it, creating detonation, and potentially causing major damage to one or more cylinders/pistons.
@slimshadie1290 No, to this day there're no engine management systems that'll make the engine cut out due to a know sensor. There are cases where a shorted knock sensor wire can make the engine stall, usually on older vehicles. Check your knock sensor wire for corrosion or bare damage. Good luck.
Nice car...Unlikely that the KS is the cause. Remember, the ECM doesn't diagnose the car, the tech does. Discard that repair shop right away. From your description, it does sound like the converter may be semi clogged. Issues with the turbo ruptured piping. MAF sensor failing at higher speeds, although less likely. Finally, lake of fuel VOLUME. You may have fuel press, but not volume for whatever reason. Check along these issues and post back with more.
A LOAD has no meaning in testing the Knock sensor. You're right about that statement, but knock sensors work in the milli or micro Amp range. There's almost no current there. It's a pure electronic circuit (microphone) driving the detection circuit. Makes sense?
@tainle Hello, very nice description, well done. OK, the knock sensor will not cause pinging and won't give issues other than the check-eng light on. From your description you should look into the EGR valve. Look to either EGR valve clogged, EGR vacuum hoses, or EGR solenoid. This description fits perfectly with an EGR system failure. Good luck and keep posting...
CONTINUED: Second code P0600 is AT-Transmission line between ECM and TCM not having proper voltage. This is an older style point to point communication. Your first step should be to disconnect ECM and TCM connector, spray some WD40 or any connector spray on to the connector and reconnect both of these. Nissans do suffer from bad contact between connectors. If issue not solved then TCM might be at fault. Doubtful if TCM still available. Post back afterwards...
@FernterPix OK, first I can tell you that Nissan Knock sensors are always faulty after 50K miles or so. No biggie, that's not your issue. You have a misfire, either ignition, injector or valve problems (not likely). The knock on your vehicle is in the cylinder valley, under the intake. It is hard to get to and expensive to replace. Before you replace the knock get a proper diagnosis. Look in the areas mentioned. Post back when you get it fixed or done please, just to help others. THanks...
Easy, go to the Knock sensor wire connector, disconnect and ground it to chassis. Then using Ohm or Continuity tester (beep) test ECM knock sensor end to chassis as well. You can then do an Ohm test and see only a few milli Ohms. Makes sense?
@carveriscool Try changing your fuel to premium unleaded, add octane booster if necessary and see if that's the issue. Otherwise you might need to replace the sensor, or the engine have some other fault with timing etc. The ECU/ECM is trying to put the car into a limp-home mode I think to stop the knock/detonation damaging the engine.
One strand of wire on an electronic circuit like the Knock sensor is a complete circuit. So long as the strand stays connected, there will be no knock sensor code and the audio frequency of the knock sensor will be detected by the ECM. The knock sensor, like other electronic (not electrical) low load circuits including CAM and CRK, fuel pressure sensors, etc can be checked using an Ohm meter. Loaded circuits like motors, solenoids, lights, injectors and actuators need a load to be tested.
It is unlikely that the KS is causing this issue. Hesitation occurring when when the engine is hot probably points out to an ignition problem or a valve issue. This is of course a huge assumption. If your mechanic advised you to replace the KS to solve this issue, walk away, regardless of who he is. To find what's causing your issue a tech has to use an ignition scope and perform all electrical tests using scope and multi-meter. Good luck.
@ADPTraining Thanks for the respond. I had few SES light. the noise is lessen due to cold temperature in new york. and the ses code is p0021 which is timing advanced problem. i paid nissan dealer for a diagnostic and they say there is -15degree off when it should be at +5 degree. i am not sure what parts in the engine they are talking about. due to some wearing inside. and they recommend replacing time chain, slave, belt and stuff like that. of course the quote was insanely high.
@slimshadie1290 No, from experience it may be that your MAF (mass air flow) sensor is bad. Try cleaning it or replacing it and it will probably fix it.
I drive a Subaru Impreza. It ran fine when the check engine light was off but when it was on (because of the knock sensor) it was majorly down on power.
HUGE question.. need fast. My knock sensor code is showing and I can see a huge loss of power/acceleration, the question is.. is it worth the money to replace it? Will the new Knock sensor restore power? Or should I look into spark plugs, fuel pump, intake, etc. ?
When the mechanic had it hooked up to the dang computer and got it to do it's stuttering,it gave the Knock Sensor code as the problem. What could cause the false/misleading reading?
Would the Knock sensor make an engine hesitate while accelerating at a given speed? While cruising along around 50 mph and then giving it gas,the Xterra will "stutter" during acceleration.Once I'm passed a certain speed it seems to go away and is more evident during colder weather.
Ok good then Im thinking that may be my problem, my engine light is on and the code is for the knock sensor (GMC Sierra)...Ive had major power loss (mainly acceleration at start), and bad gas mileage... So I guess the final answer is get the knock sensor replaced and It will run alot better. Thanks for your help.
No one in this channel will ever tell you you're dumb or they'll be blocked off. You're now my protege, I promise. Anyhow, Caps or not your comments are welcomed. try and determine where and how this knock is generated. Post back with more...Mandy.
Disconnect as in replace it? I was planning on getting it replaced but I didnt know if that will help it run smoother... I've lost acceleration ever since the light has been on.
I wish I could understand what he is saying at 1:37 about the ECM bias voltage. My dsm is throwing a ks circuit malfunction code. New sensor, the ecu has continuity with the signal wire, and the ground wire is grounded. I did notice a small voltage coming from the ecu in mv and I was wondering what it ment
I have Seat Ibiza 1.4 mpi, 44 kw. But since two month ago car started to lose power and acceleration sometimes and sometimes works perfectly. I take the car to the mechanic and the problem was diagnosed by the computer in the knock sensor. I bought a new sensor and problem was still present. Then my mechanic says my injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. But problem with the knock sensor is still here after the cleaning the injectors. So if you please could tell me any suggestions what could be the problem with the car, what part should be changed or checked. 16712 Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High is the cod which is diagnosed. Best regards and I am looking forward for your reply
hi i have a 2001 nissan xterra the mechanic gave me knock sensor code .. but will it cause the hesitation i am experiencing it will drive fine till it heats up and then start hesitating to the point where its not driveable,
i have a nissan 2003 maxima and i have ping/rattle sound when acellerating from 1500-3000 rpms. pinging and rattle very little and to no pinging if it driving at 30mph without adding any gas. but it make noise when adding gast between 1500-3000rpm. this pinging start to happen when engine at operation temperature. bought car at 96k and now almost 104k. this video make me to believe it the knock sensor. could that be it?
Hi, I have a subaru legacy B4 twin turbo and after I pass the 3000 revs it starts to hesitate and it revs but it doesn't picks up speed and it tries to shut down, I had it checked and the computer marked that the problem was with the knock sensor, I want to know if this is right or I should check something else that the computer is not showing me, please let me know what you think I would appreciate your help.
I have suzuki alto 2002 and knock sensor light on off. And engine making knocking like tarrr tarrr. I have changed 7 knock sensor but still that problem. And the wiring till computer is ok
I have a question. Does having a knock sensor guarantee that a gasoline engine will not experience knocking if using a lower than recommended fuel grade, at the expense of lesser engine output? Or does the engine need to be calibrated or mapped to accept lower RON fuels. I'm asking because most new TC engines requires at least RON95 fuel, while in my country the highest grade available is RON92 thanks in advance
I don't know what a TC engine is. Most cars can sun on regular unleaded without issues. In the past engines were prone to knocking, but as you pointed out, the knock sensor and ECM go a long way to prevent knocking.
Sorry for the delay, Turbo engines tend the create imbalances in the Air Fuel ration due to the increased air induction. Yes, it is true that gas octane is important on a turbo engine. Stick to the right gas, get an octane additive or change to a non turbo engine. Here's more light on the subject... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
I have 2009 rav4 sports. When the engine is hot and I am under load the engine pings or knock. I took it to the dealer they said it might be the low octane gas. I add a booster to the gas but no change. Another mechanic told me it is my knock sensor. Another said the catalic converter. I dont want to invest in either and they dont solve the problem because they are very costly. ANY IDEAS?
Ok, knocking assuming it's not a mechanical issue is always due to ignition timing OR lean condition. You've provided me with little information. All diagnostic should start with at least a code reading. Also, using a cheap scanner look at your FUEL TRIMS. Any OBD-II scanner will talk to your car. You need to invest in at least a cheap scan tool. Post back with more. Good luck.
Here's a bit more light on the subject so that you can understand it... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
tiida 2007 pinging in the engine change two knock sensors same problem ran a scan nothing came but g sensor in cvt. ne suggestions about this irritating pinging. please help
If the engine is pinging the Knock Sensor replacement is not a repair. The Knock sensor is a microphone to the engine. Find out what the pinging is. If it's in the engine it shouldn't be too difficult using a stethoscope or even a long screwdriver (old timer trick). Makes sense?
Here's is a publication that can shed more light on the subject.... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
hey man..i have problem with my knock sensor..i want to change that but i don't know where is located ..my is a 2001 ford explorer sport trac can u tell me where is it .please
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
That was nice of the ECM to actually record its own voice to teach us how it works
Maaan! Brilliant comment :D
That's exactly what it means. That is the bias voltage. The ECM sends a small voltage (each manufacturer uses a different voltage) to the KS and expects it dropped down. This ECM analysis is used to generate a faulty code.
I got a check engine light in my 1997 Subaru Impreza. It's a knock sensor code. There is a HUGE difference in acceleration when the check engine light (for the knock sensor) is on than when it's off.
On most systems when you disconnect a sensor, the ECM substitutes values and goes into limp-in-mode. It is almost impossible to know how the ECM is programmed and how it will react to a disconnect. On most systems a KS disconnect will cause no issues, but hard to know on your vehicle. One thing you could do is erase codes and run the car. If momentarily acceleration is back , then try replacing the KS. With codes erased the ECM will revert to normal operation just for a while. THanks for posting
Now the question we’ve all been asking...should it be replaced with a $150-300 Factory part, a $50-100 name brand aftermarket part or a $20 no-name part?
On critical electronic parts such as this, it is highly recommended to spend more for the original part. Aftermarket sensors are known to fail much sooner or not produce the required measurements for the ECU. You'll wind up paying for labor twice.
Agreed
@FernterPix Hello, well in your case the answer is no. On Nissans the knock sensor has an effect on timing, but not enough to cause hesitation. On other makes it is possible. It sounds like an ignition problem. Do a power brake test. Set parking brake on, step on brakes hard, set trans in drive and goose the accel pedal for up to 5 seconds (not longer). If hesitation is detected then suspect ignition problem. Post abck with more...
@arubin22 Knock sensor is always screwed to the engine block. The knock is a microphone tuned to the engine ping frequency. Do a google on it. It may be in the V valley on a V-6 engine or at the side of the engine block on a 4 bangger...
It is possible and the only reason for that is so that each KS serves each bank of cylinders. I will research this and post more on the matter. Thanks for posting.
@UNRE4D48LE That's right, some Impresas do have that issue. The best way to tell if know sensor input has a severe impact on timing is to disconnect it and drive the car. If it feels very sluggish then the ECM programming places a lot of emphasis on knock. Thanks for posting.
On some cars, if knock is detected, the ECU/ECM will put the car into a limp-home mode to stop you revving it, creating detonation, and potentially causing major damage to one or more cylinders/pistons.
@slimshadie1290 No, to this day there're no engine management systems that'll make the engine cut out due to a know sensor. There are cases where a shorted knock sensor wire can make the engine stall, usually on older vehicles. Check your knock sensor wire for corrosion or bare damage. Good luck.
I replaced the knock sensor then I cleared the code. Runs so much better than before.
CarverSTi aye brother please reply, I need help with my truck
Nice car...Unlikely that the KS is the cause. Remember, the ECM doesn't diagnose the car, the tech does. Discard that repair shop right away. From your description, it does sound like the converter may be semi clogged. Issues with the turbo ruptured piping. MAF sensor failing at higher speeds, although less likely. Finally, lake of fuel VOLUME. You may have fuel press, but not volume for whatever reason. Check along these issues and post back with more.
A LOAD has no meaning in testing the Knock sensor. You're right about that statement, but knock sensors work in the milli or micro Amp range. There's almost no current there. It's a pure electronic circuit (microphone) driving the detection circuit. Makes sense?
@tainle Hello, very nice description, well done. OK, the knock sensor will not cause pinging and won't give issues other than the check-eng light on. From your description you should look into the EGR valve. Look to either EGR valve clogged, EGR vacuum hoses, or EGR solenoid. This description fits perfectly with an EGR system failure. Good luck and keep posting...
CONTINUED: Second code P0600 is AT-Transmission line between ECM and TCM not having proper voltage. This is an older style point to point communication. Your first step should be to disconnect ECM and TCM connector, spray some WD40 or any connector spray on to the connector and reconnect both of these. Nissans do suffer from bad contact between connectors. If issue not solved then TCM might be at fault. Doubtful if TCM still available. Post back afterwards...
@treneale1976 The knock sensor is always bolted to the engine block. Good luck.
@FernterPix OK, first I can tell you that Nissan Knock sensors are always faulty after 50K miles or so. No biggie, that's not your issue. You have a misfire, either ignition, injector or valve problems (not likely). The knock on your vehicle is in the cylinder valley, under the intake. It is hard to get to and expensive to replace. Before you replace the knock get a proper diagnosis. Look in the areas mentioned. Post back when you get it fixed or done please, just to help others. THanks...
Easy, go to the Knock sensor wire connector, disconnect and ground it to chassis. Then using Ohm or Continuity tester (beep) test ECM knock sensor end to chassis as well. You can then do an Ohm test and see only a few milli Ohms. Makes sense?
Thanks, hope you enjoy our latest series "MYODE - Make Your Own Diagnostic Equipment" and GDI - Gasoline Direct Injection.
Good for you...Give is a shot and post back with more...Thanks
@carveriscool Try changing your fuel to premium unleaded, add octane booster if necessary and see if that's the issue. Otherwise you might need to replace the sensor, or the engine have some other fault with timing etc. The ECU/ECM is trying to put the car into a limp-home mode I think to stop the knock/detonation damaging the engine.
One strand of wire on an electronic circuit like the Knock sensor is a complete circuit. So long as the strand stays connected, there will be no knock sensor code and the audio frequency of the knock sensor will be detected by the ECM. The knock sensor, like other electronic (not electrical) low load circuits including CAM and CRK, fuel pressure sensors, etc can be checked using an Ohm meter. Loaded circuits like motors, solenoids, lights, injectors and actuators need a load to be tested.
Why do people insist on using such awful synthetic speech to narrate videos?
Because they're not comfortable with their voice/accent/etc and don't have someone to read the content for them AND still want to share the knowledge!
It is unlikely that the KS is causing this issue. Hesitation occurring when when the engine is hot probably points out to an ignition problem or a valve issue. This is of course a huge assumption. If your mechanic advised you to replace the KS to solve this issue, walk away, regardless of who he is.
To find what's causing your issue a tech has to use an ignition scope and perform all electrical tests using scope and multi-meter. Good luck.
@ADPTraining Thanks for the respond. I had few SES light. the noise is lessen due to cold temperature in new york. and the ses code is p0021 which is timing advanced problem. i paid nissan dealer for a diagnostic and they say there is -15degree off when it should be at +5 degree. i am not sure what parts in the engine they are talking about. due to some wearing inside. and they recommend replacing time chain, slave, belt and stuff like that. of course the quote was insanely high.
@slimshadie1290 No, from experience it may be that your MAF (mass air flow) sensor is bad. Try cleaning it or replacing it and it will probably fix it.
I drive a Subaru Impreza. It ran fine when the check engine light was off but when it was on (because of the knock sensor) it was majorly down on power.
I may have exaggerated on the "huge loss", but GMC Sierra 2004 1500 4WD, Mostly loss of good acceleration from start and just seems sluggish.
HUGE question.. need fast. My knock sensor code is showing and I can see a huge loss of power/acceleration, the question is.. is it worth the money to replace it? Will the new Knock sensor restore power? Or should I look into spark plugs, fuel pump, intake, etc. ?
No this could never be the knock sensor. if you have a knocking sound, then you have an engine problem.
@shades2 I already ordered a new knock sensor a couple weeks ago.
Would be better with human narration IMO. Great video, though.
Error P2337 jaguar XType 2.0 .... knocking senzor ? Video is the best! Hallo from Serbia
Thanks, DONATE: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
Will the check engine light come on if the knock sensor is bad on a 2007 Yaris?
Yes
Can't remove anything. As they are is why we are able to make this channel available free for all.
Hi, could you tell me where a knock sensor is located on a 1999 isuzu amigo?
What kind of car/truck do you drive? And does it run like it used to (before problem came up) or just a little better?
When the mechanic had it hooked up to the dang computer and got it to do it's stuttering,it gave the Knock Sensor code as the problem. What could cause the false/misleading reading?
Would the Knock sensor make an engine hesitate while accelerating at a given speed? While cruising along around 50 mph and then giving it gas,the Xterra will "stutter" during acceleration.Once I'm passed a certain speed it seems to go away and is more evident during colder weather.
Ok good then Im thinking that may be my problem, my engine light is on and the code is for the knock sensor (GMC Sierra)...Ive had major power loss (mainly acceleration at start), and bad gas mileage... So I guess the final answer is get the knock sensor replaced and It will run alot better. Thanks for your help.
Always replace the wiring harness too since they cook on a hot engine over the years.
I think your issue lies elsewhere. Disconnecting the KS will probably not help much, as the ECM will try to substitute...
One of the wire from the knock sensor broke but I have no check engine light 🤷🏻♂️ 03 Nissan 350z
Ok
Only one knock sensor per engine. I think you're thinking of the O2 sensor. Thanks...
2
No one in this channel will ever tell you you're dumb or they'll be blocked off. You're now my protege, I promise. Anyhow, Caps or not your comments are welcomed. try and determine where and how this knock is generated. Post back with more...Mandy.
Disconnect as in replace it? I was planning on getting it replaced but I didnt know if that will help it run smoother... I've lost acceleration ever since the light has been on.
I wish I could understand what he is saying at 1:37 about the ECM bias voltage.
My dsm is throwing a ks circuit malfunction code. New sensor, the ecu has continuity with the signal wire, and the ground wire is grounded. I did notice a small voltage coming from the ecu in mv and I was wondering what it ment
How long have knock sensors been around?
Did you replace the Knock Sensor and if so did it fix the acceleration/power problems?? I Need help, i have same problem
I have Seat Ibiza 1.4 mpi, 44 kw. But since two month ago car started to lose power and acceleration sometimes and sometimes works perfectly. I take the car to the mechanic and the problem was diagnosed by the computer in the knock sensor. I bought a new sensor and problem was still present. Then my mechanic says my injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. But problem with the knock sensor is still here after the cleaning the injectors. So if you please could tell me any suggestions what could be the problem with the car, what part should be changed or checked. 16712 Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High is the cod which is diagnosed.
Best regards and I am looking forward for your reply
No, I know what I'm talking about, Its a Ford 4.6 Engine V8 DOHC and its got two Knock sensors. search it please
will lean idle throw a knock sensor code? i had this code pop up and also have a lean condition only at idle.
Yes, lean condition will cause engine to ping.
Make sure it's the valves, then fix it.
So I changed the knock sensor. Should reset the ECM?
Just clear codes.
You mean a single wire sensor? The only way is to look at the diagram.
Good one Mr. Oscilloscope !
hi i have a 2001 nissan xterra the mechanic gave me knock sensor code .. but will it cause the hesitation i am experiencing it will drive fine till it heats up and then start hesitating to the point where its not driveable,
i have a nissan 2003 maxima and i have ping/rattle sound when acellerating from 1500-3000 rpms. pinging and rattle very little and to no pinging if it driving at 30mph without adding any gas. but it make noise when adding gast between 1500-3000rpm. this pinging start to happen when engine at operation temperature. bought car at 96k and now almost 104k. this video make me to believe it the knock sensor. could that be it?
Whats the reason for having two knock sensors in the same engine ? and what if I hooked up the wires for left on the right
@carveriscool Cool. Did it fix the prob?
Hi, my dealer charge 262$ just for the part ! I found one on eBay for 9,18$ all include !!!
I have a P0328 code in a Mazda 323F. It only comes on in cold weather (
You're welcome...But my name's not SH, it is HAL-9000. I changed it when I got divorced. Thanks.
Hi, I have a subaru legacy B4 twin turbo and after I pass the 3000 revs it starts to hesitate and it revs but it doesn't picks up speed and it tries to shut down, I had it checked and the computer marked that the problem was with the knock sensor, I want to know if this is right or I should check something else that the computer is not showing me, please let me know what you think I would appreciate your help.
I have a 2005 Dodge 1500 V-8, where is the knock sensor located?
were is the knock sensor located on a 2000 infiniti qx4
my car is kia sephia 1.6 1993 when i star the car and she whorms up the acelaretion is going to above 1000 rpm what is the problem is this sensor?
I have suzuki alto 2002 and knock sensor light on off. And engine making knocking like tarrr tarrr. I have changed 7 knock sensor but still that problem. And the wiring till computer is ok
Bad fuel or mech issues.
where does the knock sensor go on 2010 chevy Malibu
See if you can scan the car and post back...
I have a question. Does having a knock sensor guarantee that a gasoline engine will not experience knocking if using a lower than recommended fuel grade, at the expense of lesser engine output? Or does the engine need to be calibrated or mapped to accept lower RON fuels.
I'm asking because most new TC engines requires at least RON95 fuel, while in my country the highest grade available is RON92
thanks in advance
I don't know what a TC engine is. Most cars can sun on regular unleaded without issues. In the past engines were prone to knocking, but as you pointed out, the knock sensor and ECM go a long way to prevent knocking.
ADPTraining Sorry, I meant a turbocharged engine. These are known to demand higher grade fuels as you definitely know, hence the question
ADPTraining Sorry, I meant a turbocharged engine. These are known to demand higher grade fuels as you definitely know, hence the question
Sorry for the delay, Turbo engines tend the create imbalances in the Air Fuel ration due to the increased air induction. Yes, it is true that gas octane is important on a turbo engine. Stick to the right gas, get an octane additive or change to a non turbo engine. Here's more light on the subject...
sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
No problem ! Thanks for replying
I have 2009 rav4 sports. When the engine is hot and I am under load the engine pings or knock. I took it to the dealer they said it might be the low octane gas. I add a booster to the gas but no change. Another mechanic told me it is my knock sensor. Another said the catalic converter. I dont want to invest in either and they dont solve the problem because they are very costly. ANY IDEAS?
Ok, knocking assuming it's not a mechanical issue is always due to ignition timing OR lean condition. You've provided me with little information. All diagnostic should start with at least a code reading. Also, using a cheap scanner look at your FUEL TRIMS. Any OBD-II scanner will talk to your car. You need to invest in at least a cheap scan tool. Post back with more. Good luck.
Can anyone tell me where the knock sensor is located on a 2005 Chevy Malibu 2.2 litre Ecotec?
Thanks Stephen Hawking!
so im cutting out at 3500rpm. could it be my knock sensor?
Hi,
it's pointless, if I will read knock sensor just 10-20 times per sec ?
Here's a bit more light on the subject so that you can understand it...
sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
how many knocks sensors do the 92-94 toyota 4runner have?
Jamie Jamison one, if I recall.
pretty good info..
my Knock Sensor to my 96 honda civic ex does not have spark
tiida 2007 pinging in the engine change two knock sensors same problem ran a scan nothing came but g sensor in cvt. ne suggestions about this irritating pinging. please help
If the engine is pinging the Knock Sensor replacement is not a repair. The Knock sensor is a microphone to the engine. Find out what the pinging is. If it's in the engine it shouldn't be too difficult using a stethoscope or even a long screwdriver (old timer trick). Makes sense?
Here's is a publication that can shed more light on the subject....
sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
You're welcomed...
what can i do
your vids are the best.......and will be better if you remove that crappy voice....thanks for the info......
The use of 89661-12D70 on 1NZ-FE CVT FF ENGINE CONTROL 89661-12D70
My car been running like shit for awile cuz knock sensors cost alot and the labor a pain...
Were is the knock sensor on a 2007 audi A4
Miguel A Rivera Screwed to the engine block.
+Miguel A Rivera What engine?
Wheres the knock sensor in a 1998 Mercury Villager Ls
Mary Young It is bolted to the engine block. @
I think I'll just stick with my four barrels and my MFI vehicles!
hey man..i have problem with my knock sensor..i want to change that but i don't know where is located ..my is a 2001 ford explorer sport trac can u tell me where is it .please
Sounds like one more sensor to break and cost $1K-US to fix.
HTC evo vs iphone guy???
just get rid of the sensor all together with a resistor.
@ADPTraining That's not true.
GREAT INFFFFFFFOOO...THANK U..
and thanks
I didn't know stephen hawking was a mechanic...
psh be happy its just the knock sensor. thats an easy fix. Im rebuilding my saturn motor. just wait, My car with be famous on youtube.
Wonder what my engine ping is XD 18milliseconds? XD HAHA
Kk
👍autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com
omg, HUMAN TALK, or NONE plz!
Ok
rahamath