At a minimum, the gear downlock tensions need to be checked at every annual, keeping a record of the numbers within the range, in the logs One sign of wear or damage will be a departure from last years tensions. I own and fly a 1961 C310F. In fact serial number 0001 for that model. My first annual took me over a year to acquire and fully rebuild the landing gear system. It was a mess as one thing lead to another. The sound of the gear motor, before and after, due to all of the seized bearings and other miss-alignments was like night and day. That model year had the 2nd revision torque tubes (2" dia up from the original 1.5" diameter). When Cessna made that change, to preserve the complex articulation geometry, they had to make a hole in the tube to clear the head of a heim joint. The hole edges were rough, leading to stress cracks and thus both of my tubes, when I acquired the plane were ready to break. There were a total of 8 revisions to this tube over the years (as me how I know) and I acquired a set of newer tubes, where having learned their lesson, Cessna made a depression in the tube wall for clearance, rather than a hole. No problems since. When I was an A&P apprentice many years ago, my mentor said, "Cessna make a good airplane, but stay away from the models with low wings unless they burn kerosene - they are maintenance nightmares". In a way that advice was sound. I am constantly doing something to the plane as I fly it, for one thing or another. But mine is a classic, that garners attention wherever I go, so like I proud parent, I enjoy it.
Thanks for posting this excellent topic, Jason. First, I’ll put in a plug for the shop I use - Tri Valley Aviation at KLVK. When I bought my 320F in 2021 I didn’t envision flying it to Air Impressions or TAS for annual (maybe someday, but not now). I learned that the owner of Tri Valley cut his teeth in the business working on twin Cessnas. I did an owner assisted annual with him in January. I was surprised and impressed when he pulled out the special down tension tool, the spring scales and the Rig-It-Right document. He knew what to look for all over the airplane and how to get the work done thoroughly but quickly. I would submit the following items to add to your list for a pre pre-buy… Get the logbooks and go through them if they’re available. When were the magnetos last overhauled? If more than 500 hours, you should probably budget to get that done ($750 each). Same for the alternators ($1,000 each). Check on the last time the exhaust system was replaced. On my TSIO 520’s there’s an AD that requires replacement every 12 years and it’s about $8,000 per side (I don’t know if this applies to the N/A 470’s). While we’re on AD’s, look up all of the ones for the year model and compare to the logbooks to see if all AD’s have been complied with. The side brace kit you mentioned is very important. I’m not sure if I’d buy one without it just cause it's so expensive to do. Torque tubes, as well. If those have been upgraded from original, that’s valuable. Check for blue stains on the under side of wings. My tip tanks are all metal and fixing leaks in them isn’t that much work. But the aux tanks in the wings are rubber bladder type and are on the expensive side to replace. See if you can cycle the roll down landing lights up and down. Those are on the pricey side to rebuild as well if they're not working properly (although many folks leave these stowed and install the STC landing lights in the cowling). Apply the toe brakes on top of the rudder pedals. If they go to the floor or are “spongy” they will need attention before you fly it. If it has pitot heat or prop heat, turn those on for 30 seconds and see that they get warm. Give the windshield a good look. Scratching or glazing is sometimes not super apparent until it’s out in the sun. I’m sure there are lots of other ideas to add, but these are what came to mind. Thanks for continuing to put up good content!
Speaking of damaged engine beams, at 10:30 you can see where the phenolic exhaust fairing looks like it has worn a groove into that beam with primer sprayed over it. You are allowed only .006". The good news is, I went through this exact issue and repaired it with a DER designed doubler.
Nice job, bought my '66k in October & you're right, one expense after the other; but I sure enjoy flying her (fast) around TX. In the shop now for fuel selectors. But at the cost of 2/3 of a single it was hard to pass up.
Depends on the year model. For the Q models it seems the project Aircraft are under about $120k and over $200k gets you a good solid airplane with modern avionics in good mechanical condition.
@@flyboy98 Do you know a good mechanic in Colorado for a 310 pre-buy? Also, how quickly do you think I would go bankrupt if I bought a $59k 1956 310? :)
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At a minimum, the gear downlock tensions need to be checked at every annual, keeping a record of the numbers within the range, in the logs One sign of wear or damage will be a departure from last years tensions. I own and fly a 1961 C310F. In fact serial number 0001 for that model. My first annual took me over a year to acquire and fully rebuild the landing gear system. It was a mess as one thing lead to another. The sound of the gear motor, before and after, due to all of the seized bearings and other miss-alignments was like night and day. That model year had the 2nd revision torque tubes (2" dia up from the original 1.5" diameter). When Cessna made that change, to preserve the complex articulation geometry, they had to make a hole in the tube to clear the head of a heim joint. The hole edges were rough, leading to stress cracks and thus both of my tubes, when I acquired the plane were ready to break. There were a total of 8 revisions to this tube over the years (as me how I know) and I acquired a set of newer tubes, where having learned their lesson, Cessna made a depression in the tube wall for clearance, rather than a hole. No problems since. When I was an A&P apprentice many years ago, my mentor said, "Cessna make a good airplane, but stay away from the models with low wings unless they burn kerosene - they are maintenance nightmares". In a way that advice was sound. I am constantly doing something to the plane as I fly it, for one thing or another. But mine is a classic, that garners attention wherever I go, so like I proud parent, I enjoy it.
Thank you Jason. I’ve been looking to buy a 310 for months and your words of wisdom are invaluable.
You’ve got to take the 310 to Yuma! Just to say you did!
Thanks for posting this excellent topic, Jason. First, I’ll put in a plug for the shop I use - Tri Valley Aviation at KLVK. When I bought my 320F in 2021 I didn’t envision flying it to Air Impressions or TAS for annual (maybe someday, but not now). I learned that the owner of Tri Valley cut his teeth in the business working on twin Cessnas. I did an owner assisted annual with him in January. I was surprised and impressed when he pulled out the special down tension tool, the spring scales and the Rig-It-Right document. He knew what to look for all over the airplane and how to get the work done thoroughly but quickly.
I would submit the following items to add to your list for a pre pre-buy…
Get the logbooks and go through them if they’re available. When were the magnetos last overhauled? If more than 500 hours, you should probably budget to get that done ($750 each). Same for the alternators ($1,000 each). Check on the last time the exhaust system was replaced. On my TSIO 520’s there’s an AD that requires replacement every 12 years and it’s about $8,000 per side (I don’t know if this applies to the N/A 470’s). While we’re on AD’s, look up all of the ones for the year model and compare to the logbooks to see if all AD’s have been complied with. The side brace kit you mentioned is very important. I’m not sure if I’d buy one without it just cause it's so expensive to do. Torque tubes, as well. If those have been upgraded from original, that’s valuable.
Check for blue stains on the under side of wings. My tip tanks are all metal and fixing leaks in them isn’t that much work. But the aux tanks in the wings are rubber bladder type and are on the expensive side to replace. See if you can cycle the roll down landing lights up and down. Those are on the pricey side to rebuild as well if they're not working properly (although many folks leave these stowed and install the STC landing lights in the cowling). Apply the toe brakes on top of the rudder pedals. If they go to the floor or are “spongy” they will need attention before you fly it. If it has pitot heat or prop heat, turn those on for 30 seconds and see that they get warm. Give the windshield a good look. Scratching or glazing is sometimes not super apparent until it’s out in the sun.
I’m sure there are lots of other ideas to add, but these are what came to mind. Thanks for continuing to put up good content!
Fantastic suggestion Christopher! Thanks for commenting.
Good advice, also the tip tanks are the main, no?
@@zacharysinger5370 yes, on 310s the tip tanks are the mains.
After completing the side brace mod, the upper wing skins right above them tend to crack too so that’s another good thing to check
You forgot "looking through all the log books" as one of the sections to the pre-pre-buy. Otherwise, very good advice!
Speaking of damaged engine beams, at 10:30 you can see where the phenolic exhaust fairing looks like it has worn a groove into that beam with primer sprayed over it. You are allowed only .006". The good news is, I went through this exact issue and repaired it with a DER designed doubler.
Yeah they flagged it at my last annual. Good eye!
@@flyboy98 Let me know if you need help with the 8110 and the DER I used. It's literally the exact same thing. He's in TX.
Nice job, bought my '66k in October & you're right, one expense after the other; but I sure enjoy flying her (fast) around TX. In the shop now for fuel selectors. But at the cost of 2/3 of a single it was hard to pass up.
Thank you so much for the very detailed guidance
Thanks for the well thought out advice.
Great video Jason! Thanks
SPECIALIZED AERO LLC is a great shop to have your annual done for your single or twin engines as well as paint and interior .
Be sure that old 310 has the main landing gear side brace mod done
I’m interested in talking with you about buying a 310. How can I get ahold of you?
What would you expect to pay for a good 310 today (assuming mid time engines, and working, but outdated avionics)?
Depends on the year model. For the Q models it seems the project Aircraft are under about $120k and over $200k gets you a good solid airplane with modern avionics in good mechanical condition.
@@flyboy98 Do you know a good mechanic in Colorado for a 310 pre-buy? Also, how quickly do you think I would go bankrupt if I bought a $59k 1956 310? :)
just take it to TAS they'll get it fixed up right
Here I am again looking at things I can't afford.
I’m in the 310 “wish” market. Some day.