How to ice climb Lillaz Gully (WI4) near Cogne in Italy | Best Ice Climbing in Europe | Vlog Ep. 18
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2025
- Lillaz Gully near Cogne in the Gran Paradiso National Park in Italy is one epic ice climbing multi pitch route!
If you want to know how to ice climb the classical Lillaz Gully in the Valeille valley, then this is the ice climbing video for you! And in the end of the video there will be a few tips for other classic ice climbing routes around Cogne. Watch this ice climbing video about Lillaz Gully to find out how to approach the ice climbing route, how to climb the different pitches, how to descent and which specific climbing gear to bring.
The Lillaz Gully is a 7 pitches grade WI4 ice climbing route with a few mixed climbing moves at grade M4 just next to the town of Lillaz.
The stunning Lillaz Gully can be broken down into the following pitches:
1st Pitch: The first pitch is a 30 meter ice ramp about 70°, with a short section of 80°-85° towards the top that ends at a large, jammed boulder.
There is some in-situ gear, and a bolt in the boulder, but if you continue to the left of the boulder there is a better belay there.
2nd and 3rd Pitch: The second and third pitch follows the gully up at around 30-35° for 100 m to the foot of an ice runnel. There are belays available both on the left and right side of the gully.
4th Pitch: The fourth pitch runs 30 meter up this really narrow ice runnel. It is pretty steep at some sections. Once on the top you will find the belay to the right.
5th Pitch: The fifth pitch is around 45 meter with two steep sections.
When we did the Lillaz Gully in early season conditions these two sections where around 90 degrees and not fully formed. Actually we had to do some mixed climbing at the top. The belay is on the right. The runnel divides into two at this point.
6th Pitch: For the sixth pitch you can branch either left or right.
Both options are around 30 meters with steep sections of ice and some grade M4 mixed climbing too.
7th Pitch: Lillaz Gully ends with a 40 meters climb up through branches and a short rock scramble until you come. From here you should be able to locate a small track which leads you toward the Loie Lake.
Also remember to watch some of the others ice climbing videos that I have done - e.g.
► How to climb Sabotørfossen in Rjukan: • How to ice climb Sabot...
or what about
► How to choose the RIGHT and best crampons (2019): • How to choose the RIGH...
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#IceClimbing #Cogne #Italy
Your channel seriously need more views. All the videos are to the point with good content. 👌
Thank you so much for the support, Abhishek! Views are growing slowly, haha! 😄
Wow - you've really captured the beauty of this place! Awesome job! Just discovered your channel - look forward to going back and binge-watching your back catalogue!
Thank you very much, James :) I really appreciate the support and I am also very happy to hear that my climbing videos appeal :D
What an incredible video! A must do! I am getting keener on ice climbing every time I watch this! Really cool you put in info on approach! Will keep this in mind for my future travels
Thank you very much, George! I am just trying to pass on my experiences 😄
Ice climbing is fantastic! I will be doing a couple of videos about how to get started with ice climbing and what gear you need. That is coming up very soon 😄
Just came from a trip down there. We did this, and Monday Money, over in Gran Paradiso National Park. Have you done Monday Money?
wlcrutch Nice! How was the conditions compared to the video?
I haven’t done Monday Money, but it is high on the list. It is a genuine Cogne classic 😄
Cragcloud Conditions were less icy, more snowy. That boulder field at the base was all snow. The ice sections were quite easy, I thought. It was my first multi pitch climb after only doing top rope several times in the park. I didn’t have anything to compare to, I just thought it was so much fun. Felt more “alpine” than ice. I went with guides from Chamex. Next day was Monday Money, which felt like more of a “real” ice climb. The next day we attempted some WI5 (don’t remember the name) but it was too hard for me. Only one student made it up. We finished with some top rope dry tooling down just some hundreds of meters from the parking lot.
Sounds really nice! 😄
Multipitches are definitely more adventurous. To me it doesn’t have to be that hard, it is just a great adventure. Lillaz Gully definitely have that alpine feeling with the snow slope at the middle and the narrow parts of the gully 😄
Dude, don't start out the video with 2 times "keep watching" before even showing anything. Just a tip
Thank you for the feedback, Cookie! 😄