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Jeff, Thank you very much for the info. I have a saddle valve under my kitchen sink which I used to connect to the waterline to my fridge twenty ago. In your video, you say "I don't know how people think that it's okay to tap into a pipe and pierce it like that...", ...and Jeff, I can answer that one for you. Quite simply, it is because if you do not have the professional training as a plumber, and somebody tells you that this saddle valve is what you need to hook up your ice maker...you believe them...because you have no reason not to. That is to say, you do not possess the knowledge and understanding to doubt them. Afterall...none of us...not me, not you, not even the world's greatest plumber is born with this knowledge. It is not until someone who DOES possess the knowledge shares it with us that we become informed and do things the correct way. And in this instance, it is YOU who have informed ME of the correct way to do it...and so again I say, Thank You!
A pro hvac company did my hvac system and humidifier I also had it inspected, and it passed. They used a saddle valve on the hot water heaters hot line 4" above the tank. The water heaters 27 years old and its only a 6 year warranty heater ive never flushed it out in the 22 years I've owned the house or changed the sacrifice pipe. Im going to bet becuse we have hard water its 8" of cement in the bottom of the tank, as long as its not leaking im not draning it so I can solder on a new fitting, I refuse to use sharkbite or even compression fittings, I dont own a 3k dollar crimp tool to install crimp fittings on 1/2" copper pipe. And becuse the pipe out of the hot water tank it vertical it would be full of water so you cant solder on a fitting the pipe would never get hot enough to solder on. But after 8 years of not being able to use the humidifier I just came up with an idea to pull the water out of the pipe and not empty the hot water tank. 1/4" pex pipe and sphion out the water untill its 6" below the cut in the pipe I should be able to sweat on a new t fitting and install a ball valve. This could make good content. Insted of just talking about it Show it being done.
I have such valve but nothing happened so far. Looks good no leaks for decades. Much bigger annoying problems are the freezeless garden hydrants/faucets
Purchased a house built in '82 just over a year ago, so far I've had to replace several sections of pipe that had saddle valves and leaked. This house was a short sale and there was evidence the house had previous water damage before we purchased. A finished basement with the tell tale signs of water stains on the ceiling, although moisture meter showed no active leak. When replacing the kitchen appliances the water line from the refrigerator ran to the basement ceiling with no valve visible or accessable, when I removed the drywall ceiling as expected, a saddle valve, heavily corroded and couldn't shut off. Replaced that section of pipe and added a quarter turn ball valve under the sink and ran a new water line under and behind the cabinets to the refrigerator. Additional saddle valve broke when I was installing a new water heater and bumped the 1/4" copper line to the homes whole house humidifier when replacing the old shutoff valves the home had. Apparently the person who replaced the water heater in '01 decided the way to fix a leaking valve was to solder another valve to it. Water heater had 3 shut off valves... Typically replaced with 1/2x1/2x1/2 tees going to a 1/2x1/4 ball valve with compression fitting. In the case of the humidifier, simply replaced with a new length of pipe and will replace with a tee and proper valve when I replace the humidifier.
Yup, and what's funny about all this saddle valve nonsense is you'll see lots of idiot plumbers come on here and tell me I don't know what I'm talking about and they've been a plumber for 30 years, blah blah, been installing saddle traps 30 years and never seen a problem, blah
Kind of a long story but I think you will find it interesting. My in laws had a new refrigerator with ice maker installed and they live in a condominium. So they a common wall with their neighbor. I was at there house that evening looking at their new refrigerator about 2 hours after it was installed and I kept hearing splashing water. It sounded like it was coming from the crawl space so I went down there to check it out. There were two 3/4 inch copper main water lines leading into the crawl space from the meter. One for their condominium and the other for their neighbors. The appliance store installed the saddle valve on the neighbors water line and it looked like they over tightened it because one of the ears was broken off causing a constant leak. We couldn’t shut the water off because it would have to be shut off at the meter and then their neighbor would be without water. I called the appliance store and they said the best they could do was come out early tomorrow morning so the pipe leaked all night. The next morning a plumber came out and fixed it and installed a shut off valve for the ice maker. All the water had to be pumped out of the crawl space and fans temporarily installed to help dry it out. I’m not sure what the dollar amount was for the damages because the appliance store took care of everything. I said it was a long story but I think it relates perfectly to your video.
@@teh60 Great story, thanks for sharing. I'm skeptical about some of the other commentators on here telling me their saddle valve has been on for years with no issues.
@@teh60 Yes, This Old House video here is where Richard says not to use saddle valves: ruclips.net/video/d4X1yg-Fb88/видео.html and especially since most people use them on ice maker lines, Richard did a second video last year showing a friend how to install an ice maker line and he showed again how saddle valves are designed to fail: ruclips.net/video/VzFYO3BpYdE/видео.html
I've never had a problem with them either. I've installed a few dozen over the year. I believe the ones that leak were not installed properly. If you don't get the clamp bolts tight enough then it's going to leak. If you tighten the clamp down until the pipe starts to bend(takes and oval shape) then you are good.
A compression stop would be better first time I ever saw a seattle valve was when a guy had one that was leaking behind his fridge and it had leaked and completely ruined his frame work and had to get the floor under the fridge replaced because it had started to bow the floor
@@jeffostroff insurance claim a pin hole leak would take a long time to flood anything. Just shut water off replace with a new saddle valve.i have one on my humidifier it’s 21 years old not a drop of water. I know I’m lucky please just stop with the dramatics.if some one had a 30000 dollar claim they had more than a saddle valve fail
Thanks for the great video. I was thinking about using a saddle valve in a rental and you inspired me to do it the right way with a shark bite tee valve. Much better, confidence and legal. Cheers
I've never once had an issue with them. I counter sink the bolts tho. I've probably installed a dozen over the years. My dad (who is a pipe fitter funny enough) also uses them and has never had an issue leaking over the past 30 years of owning his home.
For some people they leak a year down the road 2 years down the road five years down the road, they're always fine or never had a problem until the minute they have a problem and then it's a $30,000 problem repairing the leak damage
In my experience these are fine in basements with drains, but never put one in a wall or anything like that. They usually dont leak alot when they fail, its usually just drips at first. They will last years before they leak, but thats the problem they are forgotten about and if its in a bad spot it could cause mold damage.
I had to use a few of these over one of the holidays when nothing was open. (baseboard heater) Pipes froze up, but didnt crack it, so heated it up, but bad flow, so pulled apart the pipes and flushed it to scalding hot (140+), then re-assembled, but now had air in the system. This was great for bleeding it, since the OTHER "PLUMBERS" failed to replace heating pipes without bleeders. Waited til our plumber was back on board and cut that section out and put in a new pipe WITH a bleeder this time. so they DO have their uses, just not long term.
I just replaced the one feeding my ice maker and not because it leaked, but because it was clogged. That thing was on there since 1996 when our home was built.
My saddle bag is fine and dandy, if it fails it's because the rubber gasket was torqued. Hand tightening is key. It's for refrigerator waterline it works fine. But I agree if your not handy with your home your prob alright with these. But the swamp cooler water line valve they sell at home Depot is perfect for adding water to your swamp cooler or fridge ice maker. I didn't see one in your videos and I think that one's pretty good and even more basic.
Yeah, I have one in right now that I installed last year to replace one that was in for 18 years (no leaks but it had begun to corrode!) I will hire someone to sweat one within the next 10, but why bother? Heck, go for a sharkbite if you can't wait either! I wouldn't ever put a saddle valve or sharkbite behind a wall though!
Years back I was working in a crawl space and didn't have any way of knowing if I'd opened it enough, and thinking at some point it would stop turning, I just kept going. Now maybe there are some with a stop but this one didn't. Saddle valve "floods" and getting cut on a can lid. My two biggest fears. Thanks for the vid!
At least you can avoid using them now. BTW is you have not seen our video that we uploaded a few weeks ago about which valves to use so that you can avoid the saddle valves, watch it here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
you missed the first line of our video description, where we mentioned ✅ Watch our updated video for avoiding saddle valves, "Plumbing Tips: Saddle Valve Alternatives For Ice Maker Lines" here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
hi. we have a saddle valve that was installed by previous owner for the humidifier connection (we're in CO). I haven't been able to figure out how to turn the valve on (allow water through). Usually if the valve handle being parallel to the pipe, it means it's open. But this valve is different. If looked from above, should it open clockwise or counterclockwise? Do I need to open it all the way? Please let me know if you have info on this. Thank you
Have a new refrigerator delivery 1 day ago. Old refrigerator was in the house when I bought it. Was told the water lines wasn’t connected so never really try to connect it. Did the old fashioned thing with the ice tray. So fast forward 3 years later the original refrigerator starts to go bad. Now bought a nice new French door instaview with the built in ice maker on the door my dream has finally come true. The copper water lines are present in the are where the frig is go to be place which also has it own shut off valve. Go to open the valve to see if we have water flowing thru it before I do my final connection to the new frig. I get nothing. So I go down in the basement to trace it the main water line and what do you know I got a saddle tee valve tap into it. Smh. So turn handle to open up the valve and still no water. I’m assuming it probably clog with sediment since watching this video. So my question is how would a plumber correct this problem, what I mean I want my water running to my new frig and also I want to take this saddle valve out and have it done correctly up to code?
@@jeffostroff Thanks Jeff, I already schedule a appt for a plumber to come tomorrow to take take that off, cut that piece out and weld in approve valve and route a new copper line up to frig. It may cost a arm and leg for such a small job but it will help me sleep better at night in this particular area of my plumbing.
a professional wouldn't criticize another .you seemed intelligent up to that point ..I admire your efforts and hope you can make videos that share your skills instead of insulting another's. good luck..
I think you created the incorrect metric here and are confused about the definition of what a professional really does. What you really meant to say was that a "professional" would not do such a poor quality job to cause leaks and thousands of damage to a person't home who can't afford to have the problem repaired. A professional would not ignore rules and building codes and common sense. There's nothing wrong with peers holding other professionals to a standard of quality. Did you know for example that the plumbing codes are written by other professionals to keep unprofessional professionals from stepping out of line? You are just too defensive, and refuse to stand up for the poor widows who get raked over the coals by guys like this all the time.
We have one of these on an old iron pipe in our basement. Next week we get our new fridge delivered-no ice maker on this one. Now I get to repair my plumbing too!
Same here man people just need to be negative and act like they know more...the reason they wrote it into the code is to force licensed plumbers to pull permits to do sidework so the local government can stick thier fingers in the frosting and grab a taste.. just another money grab. Just like forcing all of us sheetmetal workers to get licenses 20 yrs ago but yet they allowed everyTom dick and harry that worked for a heating or a plumbing outfit to get ok'd for a license as long as the company owners signed off on it ..i cant tell you how many of those people walk around with the same license as me and cant even tell you the name of the common connectors used to install duct work..and they claimed they would follow up on it and all they do is keep charging these idiots a license fee every year and they are happy.. TOTAL GOVERNMENT B.S. ALL THE WAY DOWN THE LINE ....MONEY MONEY MONEY...THATS ALL THEY WANT.
It's not that people are always cheap, sometimes it's the plumbers that are trying to empty your pockets. I've seen plenty of ads where they want $75 to $90 just to show up "service call", then like $30 for every 15 minutes. So there is some blame to go around. You can't justify those kinds of prices for most jobs, especially for a plastic water line for your fridge.
Got that right. Understand travel and stuff, but that's covered with the $75/90. Then a $120 an hr? Same rip off as car repair. Though at least needing $1000's for the damn computer. Though the mechanic usually buys it, not the dealer.
This place I just moved into had a saddle valve and when you turn it it actually starts to drip and leak. Here in Lancaster, Pa. Is there a website to check if it’s band in my state ?
There's one under the sink connected to the reverse osmosis water filter. It's fine. The water filter is dripping and spraying water everywhere. Removing the filter once I figure out how to stop the water flow. Saddle is in an awkward position near the wall, behind the water turn off. What are my options?
I would remove the saddle valve for sure. You may have to solder on some new section of pipe to take care of that pin hole left by the old saddle valve
I've had my saddle valve in the house for 20 years, no problems. Costly repairs, only if you have a plumber come to your house.sweating a couple of pipes together is easy. Good video. No offense to you, but plumbers today, charge outrageously high prices, that's why people should do their own plumbing, if they have any kind of mechanical skills. Most people are afraid to tackle any plumbing jobs.
No self-respecting hobbyist, nor tradesman would ever promote the use of saddle valves, namely when a compression "T" is available, for those DIY folks not good with a torch. With that said, and when used correctly & not over tightened (rookie mistake thinking to prevent future leaks) Quality Brass Craft or other non-Chinese non-lead containing neoprene disk type saddle valves can be an integral, reliable 30 + year solution to attaching low demand sources such as Ice maker solenoid feeds etc.
Having problems with saddle valve in my basement right now. Water line leaking behind refrigerator and saddle valve won’t turn off water supply to refrigerator/ice maker.
So it sounds like you're saddle valves maybe a multi turn type? If it is sometimes those gates inside there fail and then you just need to put on a new type of water valve. I would use this opportunity to remove the saddle valve and replace it with a quarter turn ball valve.
Yup, and all these clown "professionals" come here and criticize me in the comments saying they've been doing it this way for years and never seen an issue! They tell me I'm lying, they tell me I'm trying to scare people. Of course they never knew they had a problem, because the homeowner won't call them back to fix something they did wrong in the first place.
I've had ball valves leak and stop working just as fast. If I only had to replace a saddle valve every 6 years that is a bargain. 2 min job versus replacing a non functional ball valve.
I worked for a company that installed dishwashers, refrigerators ect. I have probably seen several thousand of these things. It seems like the quality of the actual valve went down hill over the years. The ones made in the last 20 years are very questionable. We never installed them but often had the pleasure of turning them on or off. You never knew if was going to be a leaker or not. If a valve was installed and I needed to turn it off, most of the time I would shut off the whole house main valve rather than rush touching those things. I have seen some pretty costly damage caused by those suckers.
Plenty of professionals use saddle taps and I have never had one fail. All water connections have washers and can eventually fail. But rarely do they fail catastrophically and you get enough notice to replace or repair them. Would agree to not use them in places where you can't notice a leak.
@@jeffostroff I and my colleagues must be the luckiest guys in the world. And of course you completely ignored my point that all final connections have washers.
If installed properly and quality product is used, they are more reliable and efficient than a sweated joint, especially in tight and low access areas. Sometimes quicker and easier is better.
Just had one of these replaced in my house today. The HVAC company installed one 6 months ago to get water to a whole whole humidifier. Day 2 it was leaking a little and I tightened it. Week 3 it was leaking a little bit and I tightened it. Today (6 months later) it was leaking all over the place and caused water damage throughout an area of my basement. And that's with me catching it "early". While I can imagine that probably 95%+ of these never fail, it seems like such a poor design that is flawed as it relies on a couple bolts to not loosen over time. And a proper valve is not much more work or cost to use instead. :)
Yes, and I get comments by idiot trolls who tell me I don't know what I'm talking about. They say they have been installing them for decades and never had a problem.
Lol yeah I noticed a high volume of pro-saddle valve people here and thought I’d share my bad experience to help validate your video. I found this video because I was researching what the heck kind of valve this was, as ever since I saw them install it the first time, it seemed like an unconventional and poor choice.
Yes I have one and its always been plugged up, the hvac system on my house was replaced. And to my objections they used the supplied saddle valve that came with the April air humidifier, it worked the first season. But water cost so much here I shut it off in the spring, its clogged close now and has been the last 8 years. Id swet on a new t fitting and ball valve but its on the hot side of the 27 year old 6 year warranty water heater thats never been serviced. Draning the water out of its not an option as soon as I did it start leaking and id have to replace it. So my options are shark bite fittings. I dont trust them and a copper crimp on fittings or compression fittings I also don't trust. To go further saddel valves don't meet code, the hvac system was inspected and passed by the inspector or I could have demanded it be replaced properly becuse the inspector failed the system over that part. I dont have a use for a 3k dollar copper pipe crimping tool im going to say no none licensed plumbers do. And there isn't a cheaper option. So I'm stuck with z stuck valve untill I have to change the hot water heater or use somthing to suck the water out of thd hot water line to solder on the proper fittings. Humm just got an idea, I can siphon the water out of just the pipe lowe enough I can sweat on a t fitting, then build a copper line to the furnace by the humidifier. Why didn't I think of this 8 years ago???
Hi we have one of these in our basement for an ice maker there are no leaks , but an awful taste"in my opinion" then the water. It's like I can smell the ice like an old awful taste. Help!
Sounds like just bad quality water. If you have old cast iron or other metals other than copper, the pipes are degraded and rusty inside. You can get water test kits at Home depot and send it off.
@@jeffostroff Heading to home depot now for some Sunday fixes. One valve wasn't being used. You forgot to mention the 3rd reason people use them... we don't know any better. The manufacturer bundles this garbage with their kits :(
@@ChrisSmith105 Yes I don't even remember if we showed it in this video but we have shown it in another video where I did a walk through on the aisle at home depot and showed all of these items that they sell their that you should not be buying
When those originally came out you weren't supposed to simply crank down on the needle to pierce the pipe, instead the original design intent was to remove the needle valve from the body and then drill a 1/8" hole in the pipe and then put the needle back in, few if any ever did that, and/or they couldn't hold a drill steady enough and damaged the gasket. Regardless, sadle t's were a recipe for failure from the word go and to be honest they shouldn't even be allowed to make them anymore. I don't trust those sharkbites fittings either, there really is no equal to a proper solder joint with copper piping, and brass compression fittings for copper tubing used for ice makers and stop valve to faucet connections. The only alternative to soldering I consider to be acceptable on copper piping is the pro-press.
any type of drilling into a pipe that will be under pressure is asking for leak troubles. You are going to risk $20,000 in flood damage to a single piece of rubber.
you say that 'cheap' DIY users could just call a plumber to do it in 10min...the truth is most plumbers would refuse such a small job and would only come if that's part of a big installation, so that they can charge big bucks, and that's why, we go for a $5 quick fix
Yep... I'm not a plumber, I'm a service engineer, but I work on the same basis as most plumbers in that I don't have "10 minute jobs". I have one hour jobs as a minimum plus call-out. I have a living to make and if I charged by the minute I'd just have to up the call out fee.
@@lapinchiloca Well no... Neither would I but then I've always been good with my hands and will have a go at anything except carpentry and decorating. I learnt a long while ago that they are two things I am quite spectacularly bad at. Luckily I have friends who are competent in those things but scared of anything electrical, plumingical (new word) or mechanical so we swap skills and usually alcohol.
This is what I use: www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Nominal-Inlet-x-3-8-in-O-D-Comp-x-1-4-in-O-D-Dual-Outlet-Dual-Shut-Off-1-4-in-Turn-Angle-Ball-Valve-KTCR1900DVX-R1/203309317 It's perfect to put under the kitchen sink. One side 3/8" goes to the cold water sink hose. The 1/4" side connected directly to your 1/4" ice maker hose.
I assume for your fridge ice maker? What I do is instead of placing the saddle valve on the cold water pipe under the kitchen sink like the other folks do it, I remove the old valve from the cold water pipe. Probably needs replacing anyway. Then I replace it with this awesome double shut off valve, HERE: amzn.to/2KIKo24 with 1/4 turn shutoff action instead of multi-turn gate valve. But now you have 2 individually controlled shutoffs on this, one for the sink faucet, and one for the ice maker.
Yes it is a violation of plumbing codes in all 50 states. We uploaded a video a couple of months ago on a couple of better solutions to avoid using the saddle valve here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
And there are SO MANY videos on YT that advocate the use of saddle valve / tap / tee and should probably be taken down. Both of the saddle valves in the place we moved into ( humidifier and ice maker) are frozen, and in nearly inaccessible spots. Luckily neither is leaking (yet).
See these types of videos are severely misleading. Why not make a video saying you shouldn't PEX pipe, compression fittings, Sharkbites, etc. 20 years in construction and THEY ALL CAN LEAK. Hell, my expansion tank on my water heater got a pinhole in the middle of the body lol. Yes, there's more ideal ways to do it if you know how to, but if it's accessible, there's nothing wrong with these
There's nothing misleading about this video at all only your comment period this isn't a video about shark bites or other things this is a video about saddle valves your comment makes just absolutely zero sense
sorry sir, but for every over confident person like you who has not had a failure yet, there are hundreds of people who had $10,000 leaks and up, just google Sears saddle valve lawsuits.
@@jeffostroff it make me wonder though if it’s the valves fault or if the person who installed it not knowing what they are doing. Every valve I’ve installed has never had any problems and no I’m not a professional I just have common sense to not do anything I’m not comfortable with.
Funny you should ask Terry, here is the part link, we are going to make a video this coming week about this very topic: amzn.to/2vgam89 Instead of installing the saddle valve, you go back to the kitchen sink where the water shutoff valve is and replace it with a dual valve, one of which is 3/8" output, the other is 1/4" output. On the 3/8" output, you connect the hose to the cold water sink faucet just like normal. On the 1/4" side you run the 1/4" ice line hose back to the ice maker water supply inlet on the back of your fridge. The beauty of using this part is you can independently shut off the water of the sink or the ice maker without effecting the other one. you might get lucky and find it a bit cheaper at Home Depot, but many don't stock it.
Cut the pipe, clean it and use one of these. www.amazon.com/SharkBite-24985A-SERVICE-STOP-COMP/dp/B016M169KU?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01HVHLZV2&th=1. It's code compliant and a dead simple replacement. Not a strong as a sweated fitting or a propress fitting but pretty strong, most of the failures of these are due to sloppy installation, mark the required depth, clean and deburr the pipe and then insert it firmly. I wouldn't bury this in a wall but if it's accessible they are fine, I've never seen one catastrophically fail.
Our plumber installed almost everything upside down in the house. Nothing was done right. Including the saddle valve being upside down and rotting out and leaking thru the core of the stem somehow. Then there is no emergency shut offs except the main , then comes the fun of draining the entire system 1 bucket at a time. It didn't help the inspector was a drunk who showed up reeking like alcohol.
Saddle valve are to plumbing what vampire clips are to electrical wiring. They both will likely lead to problems sooner than later, and both have better, more proper alternatives.
Literally every "problem" you listed is user error. If done correctly these work just fine. I know licensed plumbers who swear by them. It's funny a RUclips handyman calling other handymen hacks lol.
You cannot be serious, you don't know licensed plumbers who swear by saddle valves, liar. Because every licensed plumber knows saddle valves are a violation of plumbing codes in every single state in the U.S. Every licensed plumber I have encountered does not like them. While installer error can contribute to failures, you and your "licensed plumber" friends never studied chemistry, so all of you don't that all these cheap white metal saddle valves, when applied to copper pipes, create electrolysis from illegal dissimilar metal contact, which causes rust, corrosion, and pipe failure, independent of user contribution. You crack me up, your licensed plumber friends swear by them? You came in here saying I was funny not taking this video seriously, but you just ended up embarrassing yourself, thanks though, you gave us all here a great laugh.
@@jeffostroff I guess you know every licensed plumber then? There only prohibited on water lines that are designated as drinking water. They have plenty of use for water being used not as potable or drinking. Does it have flaws? Yeah but a shitty soldering job does as well. But to come out and say some BS like "It's against code" when it's only against a certain type. But by saying "Every licensed plumber I know" you just proved that you're just a RUclips handyman 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️.
What is the condition of the saddle valve, is it rusted or corroded in any way, or is it nice and shiny like brand new. Any evidence of past water trickling down the pipe where it connects?
jeffostroff it’s definitely corroded, it does seem like it’s leaked at some point but I couldn’t actively see any leak from it .All I want to do is move my fridge lol I just got the house and stupidly didn’t check under the sink which is a complete hack job
@@melissamccormack1266 One of the problems with the saddled valves is what we call electrolysis caused by dissimilar metals in contact, and it causes that corrosion, as they leech electrons from each other. Eventually the saddle valve could pop off on its own. I just completed doing some advanced life testing on s addle valve and got it to corrode, and I'll be shooting a video in the coming week about it.
haha famous last words for every person like you that says they've been using them for years with no problems there There are numerous people around the country who've had thousands upon thousands of dollars of water damage to their house because of saddle valves, there have been class action lawsuits against Sears for installing saddle valves in peoples houses that left boatloads of insurance damage so while you might be lucky today maybe tomorrow is your unlucky day remember there's no problem until there is a problem I would not feel so snug in your foolishness
I've seen many inventions over the years that had no business being in the plumbing industry. In my opinion threated copper and solder will outlive any of these newer connections found in modern homes.
It’s bad. Mine is non stop leaking after disconnecting the hose, it will not shut off after disconnecting and the only thing I can do is get another kit and try another hose set up or call a plumber and have them remove the whole thing. The valve is not able to shut off. Even with the water main shut off it’s still dripping thru the hose line. Turning it does nothing. It won’t shut offmy bro in law installed it 20 years ago. I don’t dare remove it with a hole in the pipe.
And you said huayra plumber right.. A plumber will come in and charge you $100 or $150 the sodder in something that takes 10 minutes. That's insane.. The high ridiculous 80 or $100 an hour plumber prices that is definitely bloated Andover price taking advantage of people who don't know how easy things are in my opinion is called legally stealing from people.. These things would never be made IF PLUMBERS DID NOT OVERCHARGE.. SO YOU CAN BLAME YOURSELF...
The problem with saddle valves is not that the pipe comes out of round the problem is eventually that type of the connection leaks, and also dissimilar metals in contact i.e. Cheap white metal from China on the saddle valve coming in contact with a copper pipe causes corrosion which leads to failure of the connection.
I'm cheap, sometimes stupid! LOL. Some people get lucky, others have devastating floods. Others have had class action lawsuits against Sears for installing icemakers with a saddle valve and floods were caused by it.
35 years in insurance claims. First thing I tell homeowners is get rid of the saddle valve and rubber washer hoses. I've seen hundreds of leaks from both. Many people say they've had them for many years. It's a gamble I wouldn't take. Some states have removed saddle valves from the plumbing code and essentially banned them.
I have been challenged on my comment about plumbing codes, and numerous plumbers tell me they allow saddle valves in their state, but when I check you can see it's clearly banned. If the UPC and the other International standard both ban it, you can bet it's banned everywhere
@@jeffostroff I would agree with you.....and I don't personally use them. But have in the past and there's literally nothing wrong with them. It's like all plumbing and trade work. If you know what ur doing it's fine. And as in all cases, if you don't know what ur doing....u have way bigger problems than a rinky dink ice maker line.
Too cheap to hire a plumber... Have you hired a plumber? 10 minutes, but my guess is the plumber will charge you $250 to put in that Tee. Then ask you to look at his laptop network issue for free.
Thank you for your video. We are in the process of buying our first home and ran across one of these on our water heater. Freaking hate DIY. Just pay a professional to do it right ;)
I got news for you a lot of these so called professionals to it this way also Sears was notorious for sending all of their installers to do that and so do the installers from home depot and lowes.
Well... Isn't any other valve or joint deteriorat over time? Compression fittings, pushfit fitting, solder fittings.. you name it.. Any DIY plumbing failure can lead to same thousands of dollars worth of damage.
I would never use saddle valve, nor sharkbites nor pex a or b not any plastic tubing nor any compression valves soldering is the only long term solution
Well I do not think people are to cheap. Yes save money. Call a plumber. It is 200 plus dollars. Ridiculous the price you have to pay. Now having said that. I have had one on a pipe in my basement for 12 years. Now seeing you put that on you did it wrong. You make sure the screws on each side are even and you use a screw driver put it on nice and slow and the screws are even. Not like you did it. It will make the pipe messed up and cause leaks if you screw it together uneven.
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Jeff,
Thank you very much for the info. I have a saddle valve under my kitchen sink which I used to connect to the waterline to my fridge twenty ago. In your video, you say
"I don't know how people think that it's okay to tap into a pipe and pierce it like that...",
...and Jeff, I can answer that one for you. Quite simply, it is because if you do not have the professional training as a plumber, and somebody tells you that this saddle valve is what you need to hook up your ice maker...you believe them...because you have no reason not to. That is to say, you do not possess the knowledge and understanding to doubt them. Afterall...none of us...not me, not you, not even the world's greatest plumber is born with this knowledge. It is not until someone who DOES possess the knowledge shares it with us that we become informed and do things the correct way. And in this instance, it is YOU who have informed ME of the correct way to do it...and so again I say, Thank You!
@@mbgrafix , see, 20 yrs down the line and now you know it won't work.
A pro hvac company did my hvac system and humidifier I also had it inspected, and it passed. They used a saddle valve on the hot water heaters hot line 4" above the tank. The water heaters 27 years old and its only a 6 year warranty heater ive never flushed it out in the 22 years I've owned the house or changed the sacrifice pipe. Im going to bet becuse we have hard water its 8" of cement in the bottom of the tank, as long as its not leaking im not draning it so I can solder on a new fitting, I refuse to use sharkbite or even compression fittings, I dont own a 3k dollar crimp tool to install crimp fittings on 1/2" copper pipe.
And becuse the pipe out of the hot water tank it vertical it would be full of water so you cant solder on a fitting the pipe would never get hot enough to solder on.
But after 8 years of not being able to use the humidifier I just came up with an idea to pull the water out of the pipe and not empty the hot water tank.
1/4" pex pipe and sphion out the water untill its 6" below the cut in the pipe
I should be able to sweat on a new t fitting and install a ball valve.
This could make good content. Insted of just talking about it Show it being done.
I have such valve but nothing happened so far. Looks good no leaks for decades.
Much bigger annoying problems are the freezeless garden hydrants/faucets
Purchased a house built in '82 just over a year ago, so far I've had to replace several sections of pipe that had saddle valves and leaked. This house was a short sale and there was evidence the house had previous water damage before we purchased. A finished basement with the tell tale signs of water stains on the ceiling, although moisture meter showed no active leak.
When replacing the kitchen appliances the water line from the refrigerator ran to the basement ceiling with no valve visible or accessable, when I removed the drywall ceiling as expected, a saddle valve, heavily corroded and couldn't shut off. Replaced that section of pipe and added a quarter turn ball valve under the sink and ran a new water line under and behind the cabinets to the refrigerator.
Additional saddle valve broke when I was installing a new water heater and bumped the 1/4" copper line to the homes whole house humidifier when replacing the old shutoff valves the home had. Apparently the person who replaced the water heater in '01 decided the way to fix a leaking valve was to solder another valve to it. Water heater had 3 shut off valves...
Typically replaced with 1/2x1/2x1/2 tees going to a 1/2x1/4 ball valve with compression fitting. In the case of the humidifier, simply replaced with a new length of pipe and will replace with a tee and proper valve when I replace the humidifier.
Yup, and what's funny about all this saddle valve nonsense is you'll see lots of idiot plumbers come on here and tell me I don't know what I'm talking about and they've been a plumber for 30 years, blah blah, been installing saddle traps 30 years and never seen a problem, blah
I’ve never heard anything good about these valves and I’ve seen the damage they cause when they fail. Great video Jeff.
Awesome, thanks! what kind of damage have you seen, and what dollar amounts are talking about?
Kind of a long story but I think you will find it interesting. My in laws had a new refrigerator with ice maker installed and they live in a condominium. So they a common wall with their neighbor. I was at there house that evening looking at their new refrigerator about 2 hours after it was installed and I kept hearing splashing water. It sounded like it was coming from the crawl space so I went down there to check it out. There were two 3/4 inch copper main water lines leading into the crawl space from the meter. One for their condominium and the other for their neighbors. The appliance store installed the saddle valve on the neighbors water line and it looked like they over tightened it because one of the ears was broken off causing a constant leak. We couldn’t shut the water off because it would have to be shut off at the meter and then their neighbor would be without water. I called the appliance store and they said the best they could do was come out early tomorrow morning so the pipe leaked all night. The next morning a plumber came out and fixed it and installed a shut off valve for the ice maker. All the water had to be pumped out of the crawl space and fans temporarily installed to help dry it out. I’m not sure what the dollar amount was for the damages because the appliance store took care of everything. I said it was a long story but I think it relates perfectly to your video.
@@teh60 Great story, thanks for sharing. I'm skeptical about some of the other commentators on here telling me their saddle valve has been on for years with no issues.
I wanted to add that Richard the plumber on this old house said that saddle valves have the biggest failure rate in plumbing history.
@@teh60 Yes, This Old House video here is where Richard says not to use saddle valves: ruclips.net/video/d4X1yg-Fb88/видео.html and especially since most people use them on ice maker lines, Richard did a second video last year showing a friend how to install an ice maker line and he showed again how saddle valves are designed to fail: ruclips.net/video/VzFYO3BpYdE/видео.html
My landlord just installed one on the baseboard radiator because there was no way to bleed the air from the system otherwise. Hopefully it works
I've never had a problem with a saddle valve. Used many over the years.
Yes, some people get lucky, but read many of the comments, you'll see others reported having leaks, others had expensive insurance claims.
I've never had a problem with them either. I've installed a few dozen over the year. I believe the ones that leak were not installed properly. If you don't get the clamp bolts tight enough then it's going to leak. If you tighten the clamp down until the pipe starts to bend(takes and oval shape) then you are good.
A compression stop would be better first time I ever saw a seattle valve was when a guy had one that was leaking behind his fridge and it had leaked and completely ruined his frame work and had to get the floor under the fridge replaced because it had started to bow the floor
🤔!!👎👎
@@jeffostroff insurance claim a pin hole leak would take a long time to flood anything. Just shut water off replace with a new saddle valve.i have one on my humidifier it’s 21 years old not a drop of water. I know I’m lucky please just stop with the dramatics.if some one had a 30000 dollar claim they had more than a saddle valve fail
Thanks for the great video. I was thinking about using a saddle valve in a rental and you inspired me to do it the right way with a shark bite tee valve. Much better, confidence and legal. Cheers
Glad I could help!
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I have one going on 15 years if not longer. Getting ready to replace it out just because. No leaks.
Good idea!
I couldn't agree more. Right now, I am trying to shut off the saddle valve and it won't. It is the most primitive way of designing a valve.
Swap it out with a 1/4 turn ball valve, life is good.
I've never once had an issue with them. I counter sink the bolts tho. I've probably installed a dozen over the years. My dad (who is a pipe fitter funny enough) also uses them and has never had an issue leaking over the past 30 years of owning his home.
For some people they leak a year down the road 2 years down the road five years down the road, they're always fine or never had a problem until the minute they have a problem and then it's a $30,000 problem repairing the leak damage
Hah, installing a saddle valve is like wiping your ass with your bare hand.
In my experience these are fine in basements with drains, but never put one in a wall or anything like that. They usually dont leak alot when they fail, its usually just drips at first. They will last years before they leak, but thats the problem they are forgotten about and if its in a bad spot it could cause mold damage.
Yes, when they install them out of sight, out of mind
I had to use a few of these over one of the holidays when nothing was open. (baseboard heater) Pipes froze up, but didnt crack it, so heated it up, but bad flow, so pulled apart the pipes and flushed it to scalding hot (140+), then re-assembled, but now had air in the system. This was great for bleeding it, since the OTHER "PLUMBERS" failed to replace heating pipes without bleeders. Waited til our plumber was back on board and cut that section out and put in a new pipe WITH a bleeder this time. so they DO have their uses, just not long term.
Very informative! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just replaced the one feeding my ice maker and not because it leaked, but because it was clogged. That thing was on there since 1996 when our home was built.
jut discovered your channel great advise. I was about to install a saddle valve for my new fridge. Subbed
Thanks for the sub! Glad we caught you in time Dominic!
My saddle bag is fine and dandy, if it fails it's because the rubber gasket was torqued. Hand tightening is key. It's for refrigerator waterline it works fine. But I agree if your not handy with your home your prob alright with these. But the swamp cooler water line valve they sell at home Depot is perfect for adding water to your swamp cooler or fridge ice maker. I didn't see one in your videos and I think that one's pretty good and even more basic.
Had one on our humidifier supply line. Leaked constantly. Had it replaced with a proper valve.
good call
I picked one of these up because I called a "certified" plumber" and he wanted $400 to put a line for my fridge. Greedy bastards.
Dang that's a lot of money
Yeah, I have one in right now that I installed last year to replace one that was in for 18 years (no leaks but it had begun to corrode!) I will hire someone to sweat one within the next 10, but why bother? Heck, go for a sharkbite if you can't wait either! I wouldn't ever put a saddle valve or sharkbite behind a wall though!
Years back I was working in a crawl space and didn't have any way of knowing if I'd opened it enough, and thinking at some point it would stop turning, I just kept going. Now maybe there are some with a stop but this one didn't. Saddle valve "floods" and getting cut on a can lid. My two biggest fears. Thanks for the vid!
At least you can avoid using them now. BTW is you have not seen our video that we uploaded a few weeks ago about which valves to use so that you can avoid the saddle valves, watch it here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
have one and considering putting in a second
you've been warned
Heavy on the criticisms, light on the suggestions....
you missed the first line of our video description, where we mentioned ✅ Watch our updated video for avoiding saddle valves, "Plumbing Tips: Saddle Valve Alternatives For Ice Maker Lines" here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
Very unprofessional and unmotivating.
Uhhh add in a tee and a quarter turn stop. Thats how you are supposed to do it...
hi. we have a saddle valve that was installed by previous owner for the humidifier connection (we're in CO). I haven't been able to figure out how to turn the valve on (allow water through). Usually if the valve handle being parallel to the pipe, it means it's open. But this valve is different. If looked from above, should it open clockwise or counterclockwise? Do I need to open it all the way? Please let me know if you have info on this. Thank you
No idea but see if it is a multiturn valve and try counter clockwise. If this does not work, maybe it is clogged.
Would drain saddle work better on a pvc pipe? Recently bought a tankless ro water system.
I still would not attempt to use one since the code says not to use them it says not to use any saddle type fittings
Have a new refrigerator delivery 1 day ago. Old refrigerator was in the house when I bought it. Was told the water lines wasn’t connected so never really try to connect it. Did the old fashioned thing with the ice tray. So fast forward 3 years later the original refrigerator starts to go bad. Now bought a nice new French door instaview with the built in ice maker on the door my dream has finally come true. The copper water lines are present in the are where the frig is go to be place which also has it own shut off valve. Go to open the valve to see if we have water flowing thru it before I do my final connection to the new frig. I get nothing. So I go down in the basement to trace it the main water line and what do you know I got a saddle tee valve tap into it. Smh. So turn handle to open up the valve and still no water. I’m assuming it probably clog with sediment since watching this video. So my question is how would a plumber correct this problem, what I mean I want my water running to my new frig and also I want to take this saddle valve out and have it done correctly up to code?
It's a very simple job for the plumber to remove the saddle valve and replace it with code approved parts.
@@jeffostroff Thanks Jeff, I already schedule a appt for a plumber to come tomorrow to take take that off, cut that piece out and weld in approve valve and route a new copper line up to frig. It may cost a arm and leg for such a small job but it will help me sleep better at night in this particular area of my plumbing.
a professional wouldn't criticize another .you seemed intelligent up to that point ..I admire your efforts and hope you can make videos that share your skills instead of insulting another's. good luck..
I think you created the incorrect metric here and are confused about the definition of what a professional really does. What you really meant to say was that a "professional" would not do such a poor quality job to cause leaks and thousands of damage to a person't home who can't afford to have the problem repaired. A professional would not ignore rules and building codes and common sense. There's nothing wrong with peers holding other professionals to a standard of quality. Did you know for example that the plumbing codes are written by other professionals to keep unprofessional professionals from stepping out of line? You are just too defensive, and refuse to stand up for the poor widows who get raked over the coals by guys like this all the time.
We have one of these on an old iron pipe in our basement. Next week we get our new fridge delivered-no ice maker on this one. Now I get to repair my plumbing too!
Iron pipe is tricky too
I used a saddle valve for my ice maker 15 years ago and still have no problems.
One of the lucky ones
Same here man people just need to be negative and act like they know more...the reason they wrote it into the code is to force licensed plumbers to pull permits to do sidework so the local government can stick thier fingers in the frosting and grab a taste.. just another money grab. Just like forcing all of us sheetmetal workers to get licenses 20 yrs ago but yet they allowed everyTom dick and harry that worked for a heating or a plumbing outfit to get ok'd for a license as long as the company owners signed off on it ..i cant tell you how many of those people walk around with the same license as me and cant even tell you the name of the common connectors used to install duct work..and they claimed they would follow up on it and all they do is keep charging these idiots a license fee every year and they are happy.. TOTAL GOVERNMENT B.S. ALL THE WAY DOWN THE LINE ....MONEY MONEY MONEY...THATS ALL THEY WANT.
It's not that people are always cheap, sometimes it's the plumbers that are trying to empty your pockets. I've seen plenty of ads where they want $75 to $90 just to show up "service call", then like $30 for every 15 minutes. So there is some blame to go around. You can't justify those kinds of prices for most jobs, especially for a plastic water line for your fridge.
Unfortunately is really expensive to run businesses and all that cost gets passed on to us consumers
Got that right. Understand travel and stuff, but that's covered with the $75/90. Then a $120 an hr? Same rip off as car repair. Though at least needing $1000's for the damn computer. Though the mechanic usually buys it, not the dealer.
@@jasomkovac9115 Then do it yourself Jasom. Ahh, you can't. Well then, STFU and pay a man who can.
I have a problem with one leaking right now in my mobile home under the kitchen sink. Is it normal for one to be attached to a rubber line ?
I would think that would be even worse, if the rubber is dry. Point is moot, we are not supposed to use those and this is why, they leak.
Thanks so much. I was going to use one!
Glad I could help!
This place I just moved into had a saddle valve and when you turn it it actually starts to drip and leak. Here in Lancaster, Pa. Is there a website to check if it’s band in my state ?
We already know the answer, it is banned in all states
My Saddle Valve Has never leaked or given me any problems!!
Give it time!
There's one under the sink connected to the reverse osmosis water filter. It's fine. The water filter is dripping and spraying water everywhere. Removing the filter once I figure out how to stop the water flow. Saddle is in an awkward position near the wall, behind the water turn off. What are my options?
I would remove the saddle valve for sure. You may have to solder on some new section of pipe to take care of that pin hole left by the old saddle valve
I've had my saddle valve in the house for 20 years, no problems. Costly repairs, only if you have a plumber come to your house.sweating a couple of pipes together is easy. Good video. No offense to you, but plumbers today, charge outrageously high prices, that's why people should do their own plumbing, if they have any kind of mechanical skills. Most people are afraid to tackle any plumbing jobs.
No self-respecting hobbyist, nor tradesman would ever promote the use of saddle valves, namely when a compression "T" is available, for those DIY folks not good with a torch. With that said, and when used correctly & not over tightened (rookie mistake thinking to prevent future leaks) Quality Brass Craft or other non-Chinese non-lead containing neoprene disk type saddle valves can be an integral, reliable 30 + year solution to attaching low demand sources such as Ice maker solenoid feeds etc.
@@dandavis2552 Who said I'm promoting the use of it, I'm just giving you my opinion and experience with it.
Moved into a new house start of the year, water under the fridge...traced it back to leaky saddle valve.
Good detective work!
Having problems with saddle valve in my basement right now. Water line leaking behind refrigerator and saddle valve won’t turn off water supply to refrigerator/ice maker.
So it sounds like you're saddle valves maybe a multi turn type? If it is sometimes those gates inside there fail and then you just need to put on a new type of water valve. I would use this opportunity to remove the saddle valve and replace it with a quarter turn ball valve.
Put one on 8 yrs. Ago put a small opening door to check mine for leaks, it HASN'T LEAKED AT ALL.
Have one under the kitchen sink to feed the instant hot. It was professionally installed over six years ago. It just started leaking tonight.
Yup, and all these clown "professionals" come here and criticize me in the comments saying they've been doing it this way for years and never seen an issue! They tell me I'm lying, they tell me I'm trying to scare people. Of course they never knew they had a problem, because the homeowner won't call them back to fix something they did wrong in the first place.
I've had ball valves leak and stop working just as fast. If I only had to replace a saddle valve every 6 years that is a bargain. 2 min job versus replacing a non functional ball valve.
I worked for a company that installed dishwashers, refrigerators ect. I have probably seen several thousand of these things. It seems like the quality of the actual valve went down hill over the years. The ones made in the last 20 years are very questionable. We never installed them but often had the pleasure of turning them on or off. You never knew if was going to be a leaker or not. If a valve was installed and I needed to turn it off, most of the time I would shut off the whole house main valve rather than rush touching those things. I have seen some pretty costly damage caused by those suckers.
Smart move shutting off the water at the main instead!
Plenty of professionals use saddle taps and I have never had one fail. All water connections have washers and can eventually fail. But rarely do they fail catastrophically and you get enough notice to replace or repair them. Would agree to not use them in places where you can't notice a leak.
Yes, some people get lucky
@@jeffostroff I and my colleagues must be the luckiest guys in the world. And of course you completely ignored my point that all final connections have washers.
What do you suggest?
We have another video for this, that shows 2 alternative methods for avoiding the saddle valve: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
This man speaks the truth! 👍 "pay me now or pay me later" Cheers #SeattleRingHunter
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
So then what do you suggest instead saddle valve??
we have a video on that ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
If installed properly and quality product is used, they are more reliable and efficient than a sweated joint, especially in tight and low access areas. Sometimes quicker and easier is better.
Do the drill type saddle valves work any better?
Wes any sadlle valve that pirces the pipe is no good.
Cool that Steve Albini does home repair in addition to poker and music
It took two years but someone understood your excellent reference
Just had one of these replaced in my house today. The HVAC company installed one 6 months ago to get water to a whole whole humidifier. Day 2 it was leaking a little and I tightened it. Week 3 it was leaking a little bit and I tightened it. Today (6 months later) it was leaking all over the place and caused water damage throughout an area of my basement. And that's with me catching it "early". While I can imagine that probably 95%+ of these never fail, it seems like such a poor design that is flawed as it relies on a couple bolts to not loosen over time. And a proper valve is not much more work or cost to use instead. :)
Yes, and I get comments by idiot trolls who tell me I don't know what I'm talking about. They say they have been installing them for decades and never had a problem.
Lol yeah I noticed a high volume of pro-saddle valve people here and thought I’d share my bad experience to help validate your video. I found this video because I was researching what the heck kind of valve this was, as ever since I saw them install it the first time, it seemed like an unconventional and poor choice.
Yes I have one and its always been plugged up, the hvac system on my house was replaced. And to my objections they used the supplied saddle valve that came with the April air humidifier, it worked the first season. But water cost so much here I shut it off in the spring, its clogged close now and has been the last 8 years.
Id swet on a new t fitting and ball valve but its on the hot side of the 27 year old 6 year warranty water heater thats never been serviced. Draning the water out of its not an option as soon as I did it start leaking and id have to replace it.
So my options are shark bite fittings. I dont trust them and a copper crimp on fittings or compression fittings I also don't trust. To go further saddel valves don't meet code, the hvac system was inspected and passed by the inspector or I could have demanded it be replaced properly becuse the inspector failed the system over that part.
I dont have a use for a 3k dollar copper pipe crimping tool im going to say no none licensed plumbers do.
And there isn't a cheaper option.
So I'm stuck with z stuck valve untill I have to change the hot water heater or use somthing to suck the water out of thd hot water line to solder on the proper fittings.
Humm just got an idea, I can siphon the water out of just the pipe lowe enough I can sweat on a t fitting, then build a copper line to the furnace by the humidifier. Why didn't I think of this 8 years ago???
Hi we have one of these in our basement for an ice maker there are no leaks , but an awful taste"in my opinion" then the water. It's like I can smell the ice like an old awful taste. Help!
Sounds like just bad quality water. If you have old cast iron or other metals other than copper, the pipes are degraded and rusty inside. You can get water test kits at Home depot and send it off.
I have 3 of these.
3 Saddle Valves? Wow, time to saddle up and get some new valves on!
@@jeffostroff Heading to home depot now for some Sunday fixes. One valve wasn't being used. You forgot to mention the 3rd reason people use them... we don't know any better. The manufacturer bundles this garbage with their kits :(
@@ChrisSmith105 Yes I don't even remember if we showed it in this video but we have shown it in another video where I did a walk through on the aisle at home depot and showed all of these items that they sell their that you should not be buying
When those originally came out you weren't supposed to simply crank down on the needle to pierce the pipe, instead the original design intent was to remove the needle valve from the body and then drill a 1/8" hole in the pipe and then put the needle back in, few if any ever did that, and/or they couldn't hold a drill steady enough and damaged the gasket. Regardless, sadle t's were a recipe for failure from the word go and to be honest they shouldn't even be allowed to make them anymore. I don't trust those sharkbites fittings either, there really is no equal to a proper solder joint with copper piping, and brass compression fittings for copper tubing used for ice makers and stop valve to faucet connections. The only alternative to soldering I consider to be acceptable on copper piping is the pro-press.
Thank you !!
You're welcome!
What's the best alternative? Installing a T valve or a splitter or something like that?
We uploaded a video last month Gregory, on 2 alternative parts to use: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
@@jeffostroff huge help. Thanks 👍
i have one and need to remove it and the old fridge its connected to.
You'll have to remove a small section of the copper pipe where this left a hole, and then solder in a T
Never had one leak, they are over 20 years old installed before I moved in.
Why not drill the hole manually and use an EDPM washer for the seal.
any type of drilling into a pipe that will be under pressure is asking for leak troubles. You are going to risk $20,000 in flood damage to a single piece of rubber.
I found this video because we have one that I want to remove because the line is leaking and we are wanting to move the location of the fridge .
So tempted to use one. But didn’t and used a shark bite Tee instead
you say that 'cheap' DIY users could just call a plumber to do it in 10min...the truth is most plumbers would refuse such a small job and would only come if that's part of a big installation, so that they can charge big bucks, and that's why, we go for a $5 quick fix
I have never had a plumber turn down a gig for changing a hose bibb or shutoff valve. Maybe try calling the smaller companies.
@@jeffostroff my minimum fee is $119.
Yep... I'm not a plumber, I'm a service engineer, but I work on the same basis as most plumbers in that I don't have "10 minute jobs". I have one hour jobs as a minimum plus call-out. I have a living to make and if I charged by the minute I'd just have to up the call out fee.
@@AnthonyHandcock Fair enough; I wouldn't attempt to call in an engineer for something a handyman can do~
@@lapinchiloca Well no... Neither would I but then I've always been good with my hands and will have a go at anything except carpentry and decorating. I learnt a long while ago that they are two things I am quite spectacularly bad at. Luckily I have friends who are competent in those things but scared of anything electrical, plumingical (new word) or mechanical so we swap skills and usually alcohol.
I just took mine out this morning.
Instead of using a saddle valve for an ice maker, what should I use? I’m afraid a dedicated 1/2 inch copper pipe would have too much pressure.
This is what I use: www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Nominal-Inlet-x-3-8-in-O-D-Comp-x-1-4-in-O-D-Dual-Outlet-Dual-Shut-Off-1-4-in-Turn-Angle-Ball-Valve-KTCR1900DVX-R1/203309317 It's perfect to put under the kitchen sink. One side 3/8" goes to the cold water sink hose. The 1/4" side connected directly to your 1/4" ice maker hose.
@@snaplash I'm glad you were able to find it there because on Amazon it's more money it's usually the other way around
i wish you would have said what to use instead?
I assume for your fridge ice maker? What I do is instead of placing the saddle valve on the cold water pipe under the kitchen sink like the other folks do it, I remove the old valve from the cold water pipe. Probably needs replacing anyway. Then I replace it with this awesome double shut off valve, HERE: amzn.to/2KIKo24 with 1/4 turn shutoff action instead of multi-turn gate valve. But now you have 2 individually controlled shutoffs on this, one for the sink faucet, and one for the ice maker.
So Sears used unlicensed plumbers so i should not use a saddle valve? WTF.
Yes it is a violation of plumbing codes in all 50 states. We uploaded a video a couple of months ago on a couple of better solutions to avoid using the saddle valve here: ruclips.net/video/WKKrUINQm_U/видео.html
good vid. thank you.
Glad you liked it!
And there are SO MANY videos on YT that advocate the use of saddle valve / tap / tee and should probably be taken down. Both of the saddle valves in the place we moved into ( humidifier and ice maker) are frozen, and in nearly inaccessible spots. Luckily neither is leaking (yet).
Yes, these people are all in denial of the plumbing code that specifically forbids saddle fittings
See these types of videos are severely misleading. Why not make a video saying you shouldn't PEX pipe, compression fittings, Sharkbites, etc. 20 years in construction and THEY ALL CAN LEAK. Hell, my expansion tank on my water heater got a pinhole in the middle of the body lol. Yes, there's more ideal ways to do it if you know how to, but if it's accessible, there's nothing wrong with these
There's nothing misleading about this video at all only your comment period this isn't a video about shark bites or other things this is a video about saddle valves your comment makes just absolutely zero sense
Sorry sir but I have to kindly disagree. I have had one of these in use for 15 years and it has not leaked a single drop.
sorry sir, but for every over confident person like you who has not had a failure yet, there are hundreds of people who had $10,000 leaks and up, just google Sears saddle valve lawsuits.
@@jeffostroff it make me wonder though if it’s the valves fault or if the person who installed it not knowing what they are doing. Every valve I’ve installed has never had any problems and no I’m not a professional I just have common sense to not do anything I’m not comfortable with.
TELL US THE PART TO REPLACE THIS WITH. DO THEY MAKE A "T FITTING" THAT IS MADE FOR ICE MAKERS?
1/2 COPPER?
Funny you should ask Terry, here is the part link, we are going to make a video this coming week about this very topic: amzn.to/2vgam89 Instead of installing the saddle valve, you go back to the kitchen sink where the water shutoff valve is and replace it with a dual valve, one of which is 3/8" output, the other is 1/4" output. On the 3/8" output, you connect the hose to the cold water sink faucet just like normal. On the 1/4" side you run the 1/4" ice line hose back to the ice maker water supply inlet on the back of your fridge. The beauty of using this part is you can independently shut off the water of the sink or the ice maker without effecting the other one. you might get lucky and find it a bit cheaper at Home Depot, but many don't stock it.
Cut the pipe, clean it and use one of these. www.amazon.com/SharkBite-24985A-SERVICE-STOP-COMP/dp/B016M169KU?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01HVHLZV2&th=1. It's code compliant and a dead simple replacement. Not a strong as a sweated fitting or a propress fitting but pretty strong, most of the failures of these are due to sloppy installation, mark the required depth, clean and deburr the pipe and then insert it firmly. I wouldn't bury this in a wall but if it's accessible they are fine, I've never seen one catastrophically fail.
Last point you didn't make dissimilar metals causes electrolysis and metal corrosion. Never let copper and steel come into contact.
Our plumber installed almost everything upside down in the house. Nothing was done right. Including the saddle valve being upside down and rotting out and leaking thru the core of the stem somehow. Then there is no emergency shut offs except the main , then comes the fun of draining the entire system 1 bucket at a time. It didn't help the inspector was a drunk who showed up reeking like alcohol.
Saddle valve are to plumbing what vampire clips are to electrical wiring. They both will likely lead to problems sooner than later, and both have better, more proper alternatives.
Great analogy!
Literally every "problem" you listed is user error. If done correctly these work just fine. I know licensed plumbers who swear by them. It's funny a RUclips handyman calling other handymen hacks lol.
You cannot be serious, you don't know licensed plumbers who swear by saddle valves, liar. Because every licensed plumber knows saddle valves are a violation of plumbing codes in every single state in the U.S. Every licensed plumber I have encountered does not like them. While installer error can contribute to failures, you and your "licensed plumber" friends never studied chemistry, so all of you don't that all these cheap white metal saddle valves, when applied to copper pipes, create electrolysis from illegal dissimilar metal contact, which causes rust, corrosion, and pipe failure, independent of user contribution. You crack me up, your licensed plumber friends swear by them? You came in here saying I was funny not taking this video seriously, but you just ended up embarrassing yourself, thanks though, you gave us all here a great laugh.
@@jeffostroff I guess you know every licensed plumber then? There only prohibited on water lines that are designated as drinking water. They have plenty of use for water being used not as potable or drinking. Does it have flaws? Yeah but a shitty soldering job does as well. But to come out and say some BS like "It's against code" when it's only against a certain type. But by saying "Every licensed plumber I know" you just proved that you're just a RUclips handyman 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️.
How to remove Saddle Valve if it is already there?
I need to do a video on this
Yup just checked and it’s there
What is the condition of the saddle valve, is it rusted or corroded in any way, or is it nice and shiny like brand new. Any evidence of past water trickling down the pipe where it connects?
jeffostroff it’s definitely corroded, it does seem like it’s leaked at some point but I couldn’t actively see any leak from it .All I want to do is move my fridge lol I just got the house and stupidly didn’t check under the sink which is a complete hack job
@@melissamccormack1266 One of the problems with the saddled valves is what we call electrolysis caused by dissimilar metals in contact, and it causes that corrosion, as they leech electrons from each other. Eventually the saddle valve could pop off on its own. I just completed doing some advanced life testing on s addle valve and got it to corrode, and I'll be shooting a video in the coming week about it.
You don't need to repeat yourself over and over how stupid people are if there using a saddle valve I've also used one for years with no problems
haha famous last words for every person like you that says they've been using them for years with no problems there There are numerous people around the country who've had thousands upon thousands of dollars of water damage to their house because of saddle valves, there have been class action lawsuits against Sears for installing saddle valves in peoples houses that left boatloads of insurance damage so while you might be lucky today maybe tomorrow is your unlucky day remember there's no problem until there is a problem I would not feel so snug in your foolishness
I've seen many inventions over the years that had no business being in the plumbing industry. In my opinion threated copper and solder will outlive any of these newer connections found in modern homes.
yes tried and true!
My saddle valve is 19 yrs old now and still not leaking
You are lucky! Sometimes you find some that last, sometimes not.
It’s also in the crawl space so if it leaks it won’t damage anything. I would trust it in the house
It’s bad. Mine is non stop leaking after disconnecting the hose, it will not shut off after disconnecting and the only thing I can do is get another kit and try another hose set up or call a plumber and have them remove the whole thing. The valve is not able to shut off. Even with the water main shut off it’s still dripping thru the hose line. Turning it does nothing. It won’t shut offmy bro in law installed it 20 years ago. I don’t dare remove it with a hole in the pipe.
You can cut out the old saddle hole yourself and solder on a copper pipe stubout and the compress on a new valve
I have one and the compression fitting gave out blew the hose off and flooded my basement only to realize the drain was clogged with mud, yay
At least now you can fix it with the correct valve and you won't have this problem again
And you said huayra plumber right..
A plumber will come in and charge you $100 or $150 the sodder in something that takes 10 minutes.
That's insane..
The high ridiculous 80 or $100 an hour plumber prices that is definitely bloated Andover price taking advantage of people who don't know how easy things are in my opinion is called legally stealing from people..
These things would never be made IF PLUMBERS DID NOT OVERCHARGE..
SO YOU CAN BLAME YOURSELF...
Most people don't know how to solder though that's the problem
I discovered a leak under my kitchen sink and found one of these. I’m calling a plumber tomorrow.
I get comments from so-called plumbers who say they've been doing it this way for 20 years and never had a problem and they tell me I'm crazy.
They actually leak at that flimsy valve and not at the point of the tap on the pipe.
Most people reporting back to me say they leaked at the piercing point because it also deforms the pipe
I have two. Surprise! Neither actually works.
These tiny saddles can be finicky
You know they make saddle valves now where you don't Pierce the pipe.
Your drill 1/4 inch hole so the pipe will not come out of round..
The problem with saddle valves is not that the pipe comes out of round the problem is eventually that type of the connection leaks, and also dissimilar metals in contact i.e. Cheap white metal from China on the saddle valve coming in contact with a copper pipe causes corrosion which leads to failure of the connection.
@@jeffostroff well I did listen because I bought a solder tee.. ;)
😭😭😭 I need to get rid of this!!!
You'll sleep better when you do.
So you love saddle valves?
Yes, I love them in the trash can!
I just bought a house and I have one of those and it's leaking all over the place
Yes a few people this week have told me the same thing, lots of saddle valves failing all over
So were all stupid or cheap. Nice .is this valve a good idea? No but it’s not as bad as you make it.
I'm cheap, sometimes stupid! LOL. Some people get lucky, others have devastating floods. Others have had class action lawsuits against Sears for installing icemakers with a saddle valve and floods were caused by it.
35 years in insurance claims. First thing I tell homeowners is get rid of the saddle valve and rubber washer hoses. I've seen hundreds of leaks from both. Many people say they've had them for many years. It's a gamble I wouldn't take. Some states have removed saddle valves from the plumbing code and essentially banned them.
I have been challenged on my comment about plumbing codes, and numerous plumbers tell me they allow saddle valves in their state, but when I check you can see it's clearly banned. If the UPC and the other International standard both ban it, you can bet it's banned everywhere
I've used them for years jeff....when properly installed they're fine.....u have shaky hands so i can see that its above your skill level
LOL, famous last words. You have no idea that your saddle valves failed. They work until the minute they fail.
@@jeffostroff I would agree with you.....and I don't personally use them. But have in the past and there's literally nothing wrong with them. It's like all plumbing and trade work. If you know what ur doing it's fine. And as in all cases, if you don't know what ur doing....u have way bigger problems than a rinky dink ice maker line.
I do hvac and i hate saddle valves
I can't shut my saddle valve off, I turn the handle but it doesn't shut. I guess it's toast.
Replace it with a T-fitting, then compress on a water shut off valve
Folks we bought our house from installed one of these. At the TOP of the AIR CHAMBER.
Yikes, that's bad
Too cheap to hire a plumber... Have you hired a plumber? 10 minutes, but my guess is the plumber will charge you $250 to put in that Tee. Then ask you to look at his laptop network issue for free.
Yes, they can be pricey, so that's why we try to show people how to make certain repairs themselves, and save the big jobs for the plumbers
Thank you for your video. We are in the process of buying our first home and ran across one of these on our water heater. Freaking hate DIY. Just pay a professional to do it right ;)
I got news for you a lot of these so called professionals to it this way also Sears was notorious for sending all of their installers to do that and so do the installers from home depot and lowes.
When you are OCD you become obsessed that everything will leak..........copper /polyB/ pex/ lead pipes/ steel pipes /saddle valve etc etc etc
Well... Isn't any other valve or joint deteriorat over time? Compression fittings, pushfit fitting, solder fittings.. you name it.. Any DIY plumbing failure can lead to same thousands of dollars worth of damage.
How about showing the previous page on what those types of fittings are prohibited on. out of context much?
They are prohibited on all
I would never use saddle valve, nor sharkbites nor pex a or b not any plastic tubing nor any compression valves soldering is the only long term solution
Well I do not think people are to cheap. Yes save money. Call a plumber. It is 200 plus dollars. Ridiculous the price you have to pay. Now having said that. I have had one on a pipe in my basement for 12 years. Now seeing you put that on you did it wrong. You make sure the screws on each side are even and you use a screw driver put it on nice and slow and the screws are even. Not like you did it. It will make the pipe messed up and cause leaks if you screw it together uneven.
We should call them “parasite valves.”
Big time!