Thanks Jasper, I will see if I can do one of those this year on a tree which needs to be lifted next season so there is time for the roots to develop. I think it would be best done in late spring same an air layering.
I love your videos so much, I've been binging all night. I've learnt so much, I just hope I remember it as I've just finished two bottles of wine! Time for food.
Greetings from Thailand. Having just moved into a garden house I'll begin planting specimens this rainy season and fall. Thanks for the course--would love to see more details!
Of all the videos I've watched where people give their opinions on cut paste, none have actually demonstrated the reasoning behind the artist's personal choice. You explained that you use the cut paste to allow the cambium to remain moist and callous over, then at 16:30, you actually showed us an example. Great work! Also @ 26:20. concave cutter ASMR!
Thanks so much! I think it is important to see the technique, the product used (if applicable) and the result. If its possible to show all this in a single video I think that can really drive home the information. Thanks for noticing and for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video. Some really great information. Saving this for later. Would love to see a video on the next process that you mentioned at the end
Super video Terry!! Thanks for sharing all you’ve learned 👍🏻 I was wondering about developing branches while the tree is growing in the ground instead of digging up the tree and THEN hoping the tree sprouts where you want branches. I’m a proponent of developing the trunk and also branches at the same time, I’ve got 12 tridents in the ground now(although small) and I’m going to try shaping the trunk AND the lower branches at the same time. Thanks again, keep up the good work👍🏻
Thanks so much for the compliment. It’s possible to develop the branches in the field. The problems I have are that the trees are around 45min drive from me so I don’t get there often enough. I have around 40 trees in the ground (and a LOT more trees to care for at my nursery). If you want to develop branches in the ground with wire you will need to check on them very frequently or the wire will be so embedded you’ll need to cut off the branch.
Thank you so much for this! I am just getting into making bonsai as a hobby, and we have tons of small field trees we are using. This will be so helpful when we get further along. 💜
Hi Terry. Do you field grow pines? If yes, could you please do a video on the growing techniques. I have a bunch of pines and other conifers in the ground for the last 3-4 years.
You should have been guiding them to being bonsai the entire time don't just plant and forget bc that's 3 or 4 years of development that you can't get back instead you will have to wait 3 or 4 more years to guide them into being bonsai and not just a regular full sized tree with no character or movement or taper
@@MikeHunt-lz2hq you're 100% correct. Thanks for commenting. I am not sure if @rikdah meant they have done nothing to their trees though, we might be assuming they have just left them but lets hope they have been doing something and just wish to know more.
You dearly catched my attention about your vlog my dear friend. It is indeed so interesting to me, i adhere much knowledge and tips on ground propagation preparing tree to be a good bonsai for the future. New friend from philippines my friend. Take care and Godbless. Subscribed already my friend.
Thanks for commenting. Thats an interesting idea and I shall give it some though. I dont usually do maintenance pruning on field growing trees as I am usually just letting them run. Do you perhaps mean how I handle sacrifice branches which have served their purpose?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai What I was refering to is small trimming operations during the growing season such as keeping unwanted branches to take off as leaders or cutting off greedy suckers from taking up too much energy.
@@OddBonsai I see. That’s a good question which I did not cover at all. There so much to say about this stage of bonsai development. Yes I do such pruning in the season however such branches can often assist in healing scars. Many can contribute to interest in the surface texture of the trunk (ie let them grow, prune them and the resulting callous creates some interest on an otherwise smooth trunk). I don’t worry about suckers there is plenty of energy to go round. However I do remove reduce multiple branches which grow together to avoid unwanted swelling etc.
Hi Terry Tip 7 - the cutting of the Chinese maple. Rather than cut the tree off completely, are you ever inclined to air layer the top of the tree so that you can replant it in the field and not lose all that growth, being able to repeat the process sooner with another cutting subsequently? Cheers, Chris
Sure Chris. You can do that if you’d like more stock. I have so many though it’s not something I’ve considered doing though. It would certainly save time and start you off with some great roots. Good idea though, thanks.
Thank you very much for sharing your experience! I learn a lot from your videos. Do you have any experience growing olive trees in the ground? Could you show it? This year, I planted some wild olive cuttings in my home garden. Greetings from Argentina!
super video terry, I'm thinking myself of putting 2-3 of my bonsais in the ground in the garden...but what would be the best time to do so? Can I plant them now (end of july)?
Hi Koen. Actually if all your are doing is digging a hole and putting the bonsai in the ground or even on top do the ground and mounding soil up around it, then any time is ok.
Thanks for the compliment. I don’t need more material, I have a lot more of these in the ground so no need to air layer. However if I wanted to increase my amount of stock, air layering would definitely be an option.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Great, I will do more like this then. I am not sure how thrilled I am to know that I have a strong SA accent, but I suppose it could be worse (I could have another) :)
@@TerryErasmusbonsai haha nah it's not that strong, but unmistakable ;). The rest of the world like our accents much more than we do anyway. Keep it up!
Awesome video. I have a big piece of property where I will start planting my own trees for bonsai. Do you happen to have a video on growing pines in the ground?
I have been trimming back some sprouts on my farm, but didnt think about cutting the trunk off. Do you have examples of any finished products? Maybe some of your oldest after using these methods? thanks for the video.
Unfortunately I cannot see how I can add an image in this comment so perhaps checkout this blog post which features a hackberry I developed in this way. It’s a few old now, the post and the tree has developed a fair amount since then however it’s still representative. www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/seasonal-work-on-an-upright-hackberry
Thanks for that vote of confidence Frank. This is my favorite sealer for big jobs: www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/sealers/products/top-jin-m-paste-200g What do you use?
Yes you could have if you wanted more material certainly. Just a little planning is required. I don’t need or want more as I have too many already so it was not something I wanted to do. Thanks for asking though.
This video is so helpful! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any issues with the final ground layering when you remove it from the field? I feel like you might have instances where trees dont root at the ground layer site/ they die due to the stress. Or has it been mostly successful?
Thanks Matt. Well it would depend on the species. In this case the trees I am growing are trident maple and hackberry. Both are capable of being collected as yamadori and I’ve never lost one. With field grown trees, they are if healthy, full of energy so collecting them is usually not a concern (please read my blogs on the subject and you will see I have lifted these trees several times over the years and usually use a chainsaw to flat cut the base, I’ve never lost a tree). However as more years have passed and more effort has been put into them I would be slightly nervous of losing one now even though I think the risk is low. So one can prepare them some years in advance for instance ground layering them or simply cutting roots on opposite sides then then a year later on the opposite sides then the following year lift the tree.
Wouldn’t it be saver to use guy wires instead of wiring the branches? That way there’s much less change of wire damage. Just a thought? And do you ever lift the trees for rootpruning while growing them in the ground? Thanks for this very interesting video. You have a way of explaining things very clearly! 👍
Not a bad idea with the guy wires but to be honest I VERY seldom wire trees in the field, I think this was more an experiment rather than anything else. Guy wires should work better from a wire bite perspective as you suggest but at the same time I hate working on my belly so I doubt I will use either wiring or guy wires while still training the trees in the field. I used to lift them every few years but then I stopped as each time you do that you lose a full growing season while the trees recover. Additionally you need to chop the trunks short too and if you are using them to callous wounds then this is counter productive. In my experience, when working with deciduous material which has been field grown you can be extremely brutal on the roots when you lift the tree eventually and the tree will produce new roots without a problem. Thank you very much for watching and for the compliment - I am glad the explanations make sense!
I have around 50 oak which look around 10 -15 years, 8 -10feet tall. Would it make sense to cut back the trunk at this stage (assuming it has the thickness I want) and grow back budded branches to get some angles and taper into the tree or what is a good strategy in your mind based on their current stage? I have around 5 air layers on parts with good movement and I need a lot of material. Separately I have some big birch trees in the field which are growing naturally at very acute angles which I would like to take at some point. Should I cut them back a season earlier before taking them or anything like that? I saw another video where a hawthorn Yamadori’s trunk was slit before it was taken to make the sap flow? Does this stimulate root growth or whats the science there? Many thanks! 🙏
Yes, assuming it is late spring it would be a good idea to cut those trunks and start developing some movement and taper by doing so. I don't know oaks well so be sure to not cut too short so you allow for dieback. If you cut back to some strong branches it should be fine as these will ensure sapflow to that area. You can cut the birch trees now, there would be a massive imbalance between the roots and canopy and so plentiful shoots should be produced as a result, these will be useful in the coming years. I cannot imagine what the science would be behind slitting a trunk to stimulate it. I have not seen the video you refer to, but what I would suggest is that you ask the person who did that for a followup to see whether what the person claimed would happen. As a RUclips creator I can tell you that its easy to make claims and perform techniques which don't turn out as they are meant to and I think this does not prepare the viewer for the possible outcomes accurately - which is why in many of my videos I feature content in the same video showing what happened some months later (or I try to re-feature the same tree to show the results)
Great video Terry. I think more videos like these could be great especially if you help us Saffas out with some indigenous trees. I for example have never even heard of anyone having successfully grown a Acacia Erioloba bonsai. Everyone tells me that Kameeldoring simply don't survive as bonsai but I'm trying anyways. I'd love to see a pro like you attempt something like that. We really need more interest in our indigenous species.
I agree that we have so much potential with indigenous trees. The problem I see is that although there are people trying to figure these out (I am working on some incredible Galpinii transvaalica which I field grew) these people are not sharing the information with anyone other than perhaps their local group. I try to get these people to write for me but it is for some reason very difficult to make progress with this so I end up usually doing it myself but I am CERTAINLY not an expert
Terry, do you have any wild olives on the property? Can you do a short film on digging out the wild olive with a single tap root, then converting it to normal roots for a future pre-bonsai. I recently collected several wild olives from a property that was being cleared for a house to be built, but they ended up dying after two months..... Any extra info for the future should I bump into another house being built with land that needs to be cleared?
Thanks for commenting. No I don’t field grow olives as they usually easy enough to collect. I’ve never myself seen a taproot on an olive, I don’t believe they produce them. You will find an extensive post collection care guide on my blog for olives. You should get 100% success or close to it if you follow those steps.
You can dig it out and flat cut if you prefer but then you start with no roots. Not really a problem for Celtis. Ground layering will produce roots before collecting so you improve your chances of success. Also depends on the tree was grown. I recently dug out one of the tridents there and did not ground layer first as it was grown on a tile so all the roots were already flat. If you can ground layer yamadori in preparation for digging it out that would be great however most times you don’t want to come back later, you want to take the tree now. But in certain circumstances like when you know the tree does not have sufficient roots to collect, ground layering is a recommended option.
Thanks for watching Andrew. Quite possibly yes but I cannot say when as I will first need to dig the respective tree out and then grow it for a season to be sure its made the transition from the field to a container. Only then could I sell it.
Hi Mark. I don't use pond baskets so I am not the right person perhaps to ask. From what I have heard they have the potential to work really well if you use the right soil, placement of the planting is correct and watering/fertilizing is good. However nothing beats growing in the ground.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai of course not, una pasada is amazing, great, insane, gorgeous..... something like that in an informal way..... sometimes I comment in spanish, when I want to support but im bussy, its my native language....its easier, faster.... on the other hand, I would never say this to someone, its easier not to leave a comment and obviously, not the case of this channel... I wanna encourage you to make more videos and lastly, sorry for my english!!! 😅😅
Compost heap! But I assume your question would have been whether it could not have been layered and the answer would have been yes. Except these trees are planted on a farm about 30min drive from me. I don’t have the time to tend to the needs of an air layering. However if it were in my backyard, sure, air layering would have been a good way to go.
Great tutorial! I've wanted to try the field grown technique for so long and this is the year I'm going to make the first chop. This is such a rookie thing to say, but I'm going to feel bad chopping a beautiful tree and wasting the top part. 😬🪚🌳
You can do it Rebecca! Thanks for watching and good luck. Provided you make something beautiful with the trunk then the top which you removed was not wasted but rather part of the process.
I don’t know. Cement is typical. If you want to use foam then give it a try but I’m going to stick to the cement. Would be keen to know the outcome of your experiments though. Just curious, why use foam? What do you expect to gain over cement?
We are in the Southern Hemisphere in South Africa. I am in the Western Cape. Summer for us is from around December to March. The highs are around 35 deg C.
Last request for now 🤣 air layering for SA trees (what works and doesnt) propagation vs seed, I must admit seeing you cut even the sacrificed branches is tough to watch.
Air layering does not work any different in South Africa to how it does elsewhere in the world. Late spring is usually a good time after leaves have hardened off. There are various techniques for which the description is beyond the scope of this comment but nobody is successful 100% of the time, when you fail you repeat.
You definitely can. Usually it’s done as a ground layering. I’ve done it with Celtis many time and they work great. Read this: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/layering-a-hackberry-part-2
I watched this entire video wishing someone like you lived in South Africa. And then only realised that you are😂. Do you sell your field grown trees at all? And where in SA are you?
Thanks Ty. Very kind of you to say. I’m in Somerset West. I didn’t really grow all these trees for selling purposes but I won’t be able to keep all of them. Have you visited my website yet: www.bonsaitree.co.za
Okay that's good to know. I understand your motivation so maybe when I'm in town at the least come and have a look around. Currently in mossel Bay, so not too far off. Yes I have, currently all my bonsai needs are met by your site and was happy to see the connection of you with it
No it means plant in container . But if you learn from watching nature vs watching your tiny tree grow very very slowly in a container for 5 or 10 years you will realize that planting a tree in a pot and planting a tree in the ground is very opposite . If you planted the same cloned tree at the same time one in a pot and one in the ground and fast forward five years the potted tree will still have hardly any trunk diameter and the tree in the ground will be 5 or more winches wide . It'd take the potted tree 20 years to catch up to the five year old in the ground meanwhile the ground tree already grew 20 more inches in diameter. It's no shortcut it's thinking with your head and having patience .
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
So happy I found your channel!! Greetings from Connecticut!
Thanks DCM! Glad you found me too. I have lots of plans for more content in the future, so hopefully you will enjoy those too.
the closing comment about ground layering instead of interrupting growth was great, I'd love to see an example of that
Thanks Jasper, I will see if I can do one of those this year on a tree which needs to be lifted next season so there is time for the roots to develop. I think it would be best done in late spring same an air layering.
Finally comprehensive video how to on trunk chopping
Thank you, glad it was helpful Benjamin
Find a suitable bud or branch and cut it back to that point then pull that branch up and let it go for a while then repeat
@@MikeHunt-lz2hq certainly, if there is one. What if there isn’t?
I love your videos so much, I've been binging all night. I've learnt so much, I just hope I remember it as I've just finished two bottles of wine! Time for food.
Thanks so much Luke 🙇🏼♂️ we’ll that’s the good thing about RUclips, you can always watch it again.
Hope you had a good dinner/breakfast! 😃
Hope things are improving for you Terry.
Thanks very much for your concern. Yes I believe they are but am not out of the woods yet.
Greetings from Thailand. Having just moved into a garden house I'll begin planting specimens this rainy season and fall. Thanks for the course--would love to see more details!
That sounds like fun! Enjoy it. Sure, I hope to put more videos on the platform showing this process.
I've just started getting a interest in bonsai an tree shaping and I have to say your channel is excellent and informative 👍..
Awesome, thank you!
Of all the videos I've watched where people give their opinions on cut paste, none have actually demonstrated the reasoning behind the artist's personal choice. You explained that you use the cut paste to allow the cambium to remain moist and callous over, then at 16:30, you actually showed us an example. Great work! Also @ 26:20. concave cutter ASMR!
Thanks so much! I think it is important to see the technique, the product used (if applicable) and the result. If its possible to show all this in a single video I think that can really drive home the information. Thanks for noticing and for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
Really enjoyed the video..Thanks for sharing..nice trunks / trees ya building there !
Thank you for watching and for your compliment! Much appreciated
Amazing video on field grown trees, the best I’ve seen! Well done
Wow, thank you! I have more coming. Have you seen the playlist I created for this subject: ruclips.net/p/PL07aoEnuQCWNIr9XNFYRoVSTFzrLbB-TR
Wonderful video Terry
Thanks John!
Thank you so much for this video. Some really great information. Saving this for later. Would love to see a video on the next process that you mentioned at the end
Great suggestion Calvin! I will try to get to doing that sometime soon.
Great work Terry
Thank you so much and for watching too!
Super video Terry!! Thanks for sharing all you’ve learned 👍🏻 I was wondering about developing branches while the tree is growing in the ground instead of digging up the tree and THEN hoping the tree sprouts where you want branches. I’m a proponent of developing the trunk and also branches at the same time, I’ve got 12 tridents in the ground now(although small) and I’m going to try shaping the trunk AND the lower branches at the same time. Thanks again, keep up the good work👍🏻
Thanks so much for the compliment. It’s possible to develop the branches in the field. The problems I have are that the trees are around 45min drive from me so I don’t get there often enough. I have around 40 trees in the ground (and a LOT more trees to care for at my nursery). If you want to develop branches in the ground with wire you will need to check on them very frequently or the wire will be so embedded you’ll need to cut off the branch.
Thanks Terry, I’ll keep on it👍🏻
Great stuff 👍🏻
Thank you so much for this! I am just getting into making bonsai as a hobby, and we have tons of small field trees we are using. This will be so helpful when we get further along. 💜
That’s wonderful! So glad it will be of use to you.
Hi Terry. Do you field grow pines? If yes, could you please do a video on the growing techniques. I have a bunch of pines and other conifers in the ground for the last 3-4 years.
You should have been guiding them to being bonsai the entire time don't just plant and forget bc that's 3 or 4 years of development that you can't get back instead you will have to wait 3 or 4 more years to guide them into being bonsai and not just a regular full sized tree with no character or movement or taper
@@MikeHunt-lz2hq you're 100% correct. Thanks for commenting. I am not sure if @rikdah meant they have done nothing to their trees though, we might be assuming they have just left them but lets hope they have been doing something and just wish to know more.
Awesome video Terry, the angle cut vs straight cut and waiting for the sap flow was something I wondered too, thank you!
Yeah that one took me a few years to figure out too! Glad I could share it
Great information. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you.
great information. planning on planting a few this year
Best of luck!
Great informative article! 😊
Thank you Vaughan.
Great video keep up the great work
Thanks so much Mike!
You dearly catched my attention about your vlog my dear friend. It is indeed so interesting to me, i adhere much knowledge and tips on ground propagation preparing tree to be a good bonsai for the future. New friend from philippines my friend. Take care and Godbless. Subscribed already my friend.
Thank you for your comments and thank you for subscribing! :)
Enjoyed the content. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing tips many thanks 😁🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks! Appreciate your efforts. Cheers
Glad it helped!
Helpful video, thanks.
I am so glad it’s helpful. Many thanks.
Thanks for the tips. I've been looking for a video like this. Maybe you coul do a similar obe on maintenanca pruning for field grown trees.
Thanks for commenting. Thats an interesting idea and I shall give it some though. I dont usually do maintenance pruning on field growing trees as I am usually just letting them run. Do you perhaps mean how I handle sacrifice branches which have served their purpose?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai yes for me on that ;)
@@TerryErasmusbonsai What I was refering to is small trimming operations during the growing season such as keeping unwanted branches to take off as leaders or cutting off greedy suckers from taking up too much energy.
@@OddBonsai I see. That’s a good question which I did not cover at all. There so much to say about this stage of bonsai development. Yes I do such pruning in the season however such branches can often assist in healing scars. Many can contribute to interest in the surface texture of the trunk (ie let them grow, prune them and the resulting callous creates some interest on an otherwise smooth trunk). I don’t worry about suckers there is plenty of energy to go round. However I do remove reduce multiple branches which grow together to avoid unwanted swelling etc.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai That's eactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thank you for the useful insights!
Nice tips...very clear 👍👍👍
That’s great to know, thank you.
Hi Terry
Tip 7 - the cutting of the Chinese maple. Rather than cut the tree off completely, are you ever inclined to air layer the top of the tree so that you can replant it in the field and not lose all that growth, being able to repeat the process sooner with another cutting subsequently?
Cheers, Chris
Sure Chris. You can do that if you’d like more stock. I have so many though it’s not something I’ve considered doing though. It would certainly save time and start you off with some great roots.
Good idea though, thanks.
Great tips thanks for sharing
Thank you kindly Jack!
Thank you very much for sharing your experience! I learn a lot from your videos. Do you have any experience growing olive trees in the ground? Could you show it? This year, I planted some wild olive cuttings in my home garden. Greetings from Argentina!
Great tips
Thank you very much!
Hi thank you for the great information
You are so welcome!
20:12 used this technique and trunk is healing faster, thanks
Love that sort of feedback! Thanks so much.
super video terry, I'm thinking myself of putting 2-3 of my bonsais in the ground in the garden...but what would be the best time to do so? Can I plant them now (end of july)?
Hi Koen. Actually if all your are doing is digging a hole and putting the bonsai in the ground or even on top do the ground and mounding soil up around it, then any time is ok.
Hi Terry,
great video, great explanation!
But why don't you do air layering on the maple for example?
Many greetings!
Thanks for the compliment. I don’t need more material, I have a lot more of these in the ground so no need to air layer. However if I wanted to increase my amount of stock, air layering would definitely be an option.
10:14 - Do you discard the top portion or do you grow it as a big cutting ?
Any reason why you didn't air-layer it ?
I discard it. I don’t need more material. Too many trees already.
Súper nice video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼.
thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
You earned a sub. There is so little info out there on this part of the process.
Cool for an expat like me to hear an SA accent.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Great, I will do more like this then. I am not sure how thrilled I am to know that I have a strong SA accent, but I suppose it could be worse (I could have another) :)
@@TerryErasmusbonsai haha nah it's not that strong, but unmistakable ;). The rest of the world like our accents much more than we do anyway.
Keep it up!
Thanks bro awesome advice
Thank you so much Royale!
Awesome video. I have a big piece of property where I will start planting my own trees for bonsai. Do you happen to have a video on growing pines in the ground?
No because I’ve never grown them that way only in containers of one way or the other.
Thank you Terry for the great video and info. I will try to sneak into my antie's field. Minute 10, what is the name of the sealer you use?
Hope you don’t get caught 😂 It’s called Top Jin Sealer: www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/sealers/products/top-jin-m-paste-200g
Thank you @@TerryErasmusbonsai for your time. And If I get caught I will have the time to watch all your videos 😂😂
Nice video
Thank you, Abdullah! Glad you enjoyed it.
I have been trimming back some sprouts on my farm, but didnt think about cutting the trunk off. Do you have examples of any finished products? Maybe some of your oldest after using these methods? thanks for the video.
Unfortunately I cannot see how I can add an image in this comment so perhaps checkout this blog post which features a hackberry I developed in this way. It’s a few old now, the post and the tree has developed a fair amount since then however it’s still representative.
www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/seasonal-work-on-an-upright-hackberry
Way hand tools over grinders. I agree about the sealer. . .anything that gives the tree a higher degree of survivialbilty.
Thanks for that vote of confidence Frank. This is my favorite sealer for big jobs: www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/sealers/products/top-jin-m-paste-200g
What do you use?
At 9:09--I had a question. Could you have air layered this type of tree and gotten a 2nd thick-trunk tree??
Yes you could have if you wanted more material certainly. Just a little planning is required. I don’t need or want more as I have too many already so it was not something I wanted to do. Thanks for asking though.
This video is so helpful! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any issues with the final ground layering when you remove it from the field? I feel like you might have instances where trees dont root at the ground layer site/ they die due to the stress. Or has it been mostly successful?
Thanks Matt. Well it would depend on the species. In this case the trees I am growing are trident maple and hackberry. Both are capable of being collected as yamadori and I’ve never lost one. With field grown trees, they are if healthy, full of energy so collecting them is usually not a concern (please read my blogs on the subject and you will see I have lifted these trees several times over the years and usually use a chainsaw to flat cut the base, I’ve never lost a tree). However as more years have passed and more effort has been put into them I would be slightly nervous of losing one now even though I think the risk is low. So one can prepare them some years in advance for instance ground layering them or simply cutting roots on opposite sides then then a year later on the opposite sides then the following year lift the tree.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Fantastic thanks for the follow up Terry. I'll take a look at your blogs now - I didn't realise you blogged. Thank you.
awesome dude
Many thanks 😁
Wouldn’t it be saver to use guy wires instead of wiring the branches? That way there’s much less change of wire damage. Just a thought? And do you ever lift the trees for rootpruning while growing them in the ground? Thanks for this very interesting video. You have a way of explaining things very clearly! 👍
Not a bad idea with the guy wires but to be honest I VERY seldom wire trees in the field, I think this was more an experiment rather than anything else. Guy wires should work better from a wire bite perspective as you suggest but at the same time I hate working on my belly so I doubt I will use either wiring or guy wires while still training the trees in the field. I used to lift them every few years but then I stopped as each time you do that you lose a full growing season while the trees recover. Additionally you need to chop the trunks short too and if you are using them to callous wounds then this is counter productive. In my experience, when working with deciduous material which has been field grown you can be extremely brutal on the roots when you lift the tree eventually and the tree will produce new roots without a problem. Thank you very much for watching and for the compliment - I am glad the explanations make sense!
Thank You 🙏✌️
Thank you for watching!
Excellent 100%
Thanks so much!
I have around 50 oak which look around 10 -15 years, 8 -10feet tall. Would it make sense to cut back the trunk at this stage (assuming it has the thickness I want) and grow back budded branches to get some angles and taper into the tree or what is a good strategy in your mind based on their current stage?
I have around 5 air layers on parts with good movement and I need a lot of material. Separately I have some big birch trees in the field which are growing naturally at very acute angles which I would like to take at some point. Should I cut them back a season earlier before taking them or anything like that? I saw another video where a hawthorn Yamadori’s trunk was slit before it was taken to make the sap flow? Does this stimulate root growth or whats the science there? Many thanks! 🙏
Yes, assuming it is late spring it would be a good idea to cut those trunks and start developing some movement and taper by doing so. I don't know oaks well so be sure to not cut too short so you allow for dieback. If you cut back to some strong branches it should be fine as these will ensure sapflow to that area.
You can cut the birch trees now, there would be a massive imbalance between the roots and canopy and so plentiful shoots should be produced as a result, these will be useful in the coming years.
I cannot imagine what the science would be behind slitting a trunk to stimulate it. I have not seen the video you refer to, but what I would suggest is that you ask the person who did that for a followup to see whether what the person claimed would happen. As a RUclips creator I can tell you that its easy to make claims and perform techniques which don't turn out as they are meant to and I think this does not prepare the viewer for the possible outcomes accurately - which is why in many of my videos I feature content in the same video showing what happened some months later (or I try to re-feature the same tree to show the results)
Great video Terry. I think more videos like these could be great especially if you help us Saffas out with some indigenous trees. I for example have never even heard of anyone having successfully grown a Acacia Erioloba bonsai. Everyone tells me that Kameeldoring simply don't survive as bonsai but I'm trying anyways.
I'd love to see a pro like you attempt something like that. We really need more interest in our indigenous species.
I agree that we have so much potential with indigenous trees. The problem I see is that although there are people trying to figure these out (I am working on some incredible Galpinii transvaalica which I field grew) these people are not sharing the information with anyone other than perhaps their local group. I try to get these people to write for me but it is for some reason very difficult to make progress with this so I end up usually doing it myself but I am CERTAINLY not an expert
Terry, do you have any wild olives on the property? Can you do a short film on digging out the wild olive with a single tap root, then converting it to normal roots for a future pre-bonsai. I recently collected several wild olives from a property that was being cleared for a house to be built, but they ended up dying after two months.....
Any extra info for the future should I bump into another house being built with land that needs to be cleared?
Thanks for commenting. No I don’t field grow olives as they usually easy enough to collect. I’ve never myself seen a taproot on an olive, I don’t believe they produce them. You will find an extensive post collection care guide on my blog for olives. You should get 100% success or close to it if you follow those steps.
31:00 Why? Would you do the same for yamadori?
You can dig it out and flat cut if you prefer but then you start with no roots. Not really a problem for Celtis. Ground layering will produce roots before collecting so you improve your chances of success. Also depends on the tree was grown. I recently dug out one of the tridents there and did not ground layer first as it was grown on a tile so all the roots were already flat. If you can ground layer yamadori in preparation for digging it out that would be great however most times you don’t want to come back later, you want to take the tree now. But in certain circumstances like when you know the tree does not have sufficient roots to collect, ground layering is a recommended option.
Great looking maple and celtis stumps. Do you sell these as starter bonsai to the public?
Thanks for watching Andrew. Quite possibly yes but I cannot say when as I will first need to dig the respective tree out and then grow it for a season to be sure its made the transition from the field to a container. Only then could I sell it.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai ok, thanks. When they become available, I will be waiting!
@@andrewbulman2288 Likewise!
Good topics
Thank you Palash, I appreciate the positive feedback!
What is your opinion on growing in pond baskets vs. ground?
Hi Mark. I don't use pond baskets so I am not the right person perhaps to ask. From what I have heard they have the potential to work really well if you use the right soil, placement of the planting is correct and watering/fertilizing is good. However nothing beats growing in the ground.
Amazing
Thank you very much, Riya!
make avideo on how to ground layer and harvesting the air layering
Thanks for the suggestion. Please read this until I bring out a video on it: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/layering-of-a-hackberry-part-1
Hi Terry, about how deep did you put that concrete paver under the maple at the planting cheers
The paver is placed on the soil or just under it. Then the tree is placed directly onto that and the roots covered with soil.
El video es una pasada. Muchas gracias.
Is this translation correct? "The video is shit. Thank you very much." I am not sure how to respond if so :)
@@TerryErasmusbonsai of course not, una pasada is amazing, great, insane, gorgeous..... something like that in an informal way..... sometimes I comment in spanish, when I want to support but im bussy, its my native language....its easier, faster.... on the other hand, I would never say this to someone, its easier not to leave a comment and obviously, not the case of this channel... I wanna encourage you to make more videos and lastly, sorry for my english!!! 😅😅
@@BONSAIenCORTO that’s what I thought. I was sure you would not say that. Stupid Google translate!!! 😤
Hahahaha!!! Greetings from Spain too! Terry, this is your best video, so far!!!
Nice! Do you have an video on this removing technique you use?
Sure, ruclips.net/video/d7GR8M9eUDY/видео.html
Good morning. When you cut the maple, what did you do with the part you cut off?
Compost heap! But I assume your question would have been whether it could not have been layered and the answer would have been yes. Except these trees are planted on a farm about 30min drive from me. I don’t have the time to tend to the needs of an air layering. However if it were in my backyard, sure, air layering would have been a good way to go.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Would that big piece also be suitable to get cuttings from?
@@SecularSoutherner504 yes if taken at the right time.
do you ever air layer before you chop?
No.
17:36 just me spotting a scary face? 🤣
Well done! Sorry but I don’t have an award for that 😀
AMAZING
Thank you, Mr.Jahid!
Great tutorial! I've wanted to try the field grown technique for so long and this is the year I'm going to make the first chop. This is such a rookie thing to say, but I'm going to feel bad chopping a beautiful tree and wasting the top part. 😬🪚🌳
You can do it Rebecca! Thanks for watching and good luck. Provided you make something beautiful with the trunk then the top which you removed was not wasted but rather part of the process.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I'll give it my best shot, thank you!
What season to trunk chop Japanese maple?
Late spring or Autumn. My suggestion is late spring as it will give you lots of back budding.
Can you use expanding foam spray instead of the cement?
I don’t know. Cement is typical. If you want to use foam then give it a try but I’m going to stick to the cement. Would be keen to know the outcome of your experiments though. Just curious, why use foam? What do you expect to gain over cement?
Szia!
Légyszíves állítsd be a videóid alatt a magyar feliratozás lehetőségét is!
Köszönöm előre is!!!👍
When you say summer what month is that for you and your temperatures? I get confused.
We are in the Southern Hemisphere in South Africa. I am in the Western Cape. Summer for us is from around December to March. The highs are around 35 deg C.
Last request for now 🤣 air layering for SA trees (what works and doesnt) propagation vs seed, I must admit seeing you cut even the sacrificed branches is tough to watch.
Air layering does not work any different in South Africa to how it does elsewhere in the world. Late spring is usually a good time after leaves have hardened off. There are various techniques for which the description is beyond the scope of this comment but nobody is successful 100% of the time, when you fail you repeat.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai sorry I learned a lot more this past year I swear 🤣
Good
Thank you Kamrul.
Hi Terry Are you from Sourh Africa
Indeed Buks. Somerset West. You?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Ek het met kantoor gepraat Gaan bestel
good
Thank you!
Super
👍🏻
Has anyone attempted to airlayer a trunk?
You definitely can. Usually it’s done as a ground layering. I’ve done it with Celtis many time and they work great. Read this: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/layering-a-hackberry-part-2
I watched this entire video wishing someone like you lived in South Africa. And then only realised that you are😂. Do you sell your field grown trees at all? And where in SA are you?
Thanks Ty. Very kind of you to say. I’m in Somerset West. I didn’t really grow all these trees for selling purposes but I won’t be able to keep all of them. Have you visited my website yet: www.bonsaitree.co.za
Okay that's good to know. I understand your motivation so maybe when I'm in town at the least come and have a look around. Currently in mossel Bay, so not too far off.
Yes I have, currently all my bonsai needs are met by your site and was happy to see the connection of you with it
Why did you not air layer it first
Do you think the material was worth layering?
Bollocks
No air layering ?
Please teach me seeing as you are clearly of far superior ability to myself.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai cant teach a bellend
Bonsai means "tree in tray" but nice shortcut
I am sorry but I don’t understand your comment. Please elaborate.
No it means plant in container . But if you learn from watching nature vs watching your tiny tree grow very very slowly in a container for 5 or 10 years you will realize that planting a tree in a pot and planting a tree in the ground is very opposite . If you planted the same cloned tree at the same time one in a pot and one in the ground and fast forward five years the potted tree will still have hardly any trunk diameter and the tree in the ground will be 5 or more winches wide . It'd take the potted tree 20 years to catch up to the five year old in the ground meanwhile the ground tree already grew 20 more inches in diameter. It's no shortcut it's thinking with your head and having patience .
Use nature to your advantage .It's there for everyone
Don't normally plant bonsai in trays unless it's a ishitsubuki
You keep talking but it's not healing
Yeah sorry but I don’t follow your comment.
You wasted many trees on that
Sorry I’m so wasteful. I won’t do it again.