Thanks for the video Lance. The ferguson TE20 workshop manual doesn't give clutch fingers heights, as they used a clutch tool to set the fingers. I was only replacing a clutch plate on my TEF. 30mm was right.
G’day Lance, love watching your videos, Jam Pack full of info and advice. Noted that you mentioned the plastic clutch alignment tool being available on your site. Often buy my spares from your mob but on checking I can buy the clutch kit but can’t see the plastic tool. Do you still sell them. Btw, getting going a 55 garden art tea20. Got the shock of my live when I got it to run😊😊😊. Clutch totally stuck, disengage through the Howard’s reduction gear 😮😮. Cheers mate regards Peter
Lance, we've replaced a clutch in a tea20, but it won't disengage. We've put the clutch plate in as you show, is it possible that we've put the thrust bearing fork on the wrong way round thus not pushing the thrust bearing onto the clutch fingers far enough to disengage the drive line? Regards from 🇬🇧
Hi Bundy, Followed your instructions and now I find the clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is fully depressed. I checked for 30mm on the spring tangs. Brand new pressure plate. Do these need adjusting? Have you seen a clutch that fails to disengage? Cheers
Try lifting the pedal slightly and see if that helps. On this tractor I had to adjust the pedal so it had a bit more free travel so it didnt drag from the fingers touching the clutch plate hub.
@@BundyBearsShed I tried adjusting with almost 0.0” clearance from up stop on the pedal shaft. Or am I doing it the wrong way? Does my head in sometimes. 😆
I put a clutch in my te20 and was going to test it like you showed by putting it in 4th gear. It moved backwards, how can that happen. Thanks for any info you can give me.
@@BundyBearsShed I had a block behind it and when it got tight against it I would push down on the clutch and it would roll forward freely. I guess I will put everything back together and start it up and see what happens. Thanks anyway from Kansas USA.
My current issue is getting the flywheel back on, it only goes on one way, one orientation because of the tab that sticks out of the crank so I know the problem isnt that. But the flywheel just wont properly seat on the crank, I can see the tab on the crank through the tab-recess on the flywheel, and I use measuring tape to and do the bolts up criss-cross pattern, but it still wont slide on properly, it sticks proud by almost a whole centimeter and then won't come in any further. Anyone got any tips?
@@BundyBearsShed Found the issues, the dowel was misshaped by just a little, there was a burr on it, used a small diamond needle file to round it off by a tad and that worked. The other issue was the pilot bearing wasn't installed yet, and the rear recess for the pilot bearing makes it look like the flywheel wasn't properly seated against the crank all the way. Used a caliper and found that it was off by a few mm's, not a whole cm 🤣
Thank you for the videos. Ones like this are very helpful because they let me know what to expect as I'm taking it apart.
Hopefully you get something useful from them.
You make it look easy,your a great help in all my maintenance and repairs on my 1950 Ferguson TED20."John"North Wales
Glad to help
Clutch repairing is no too easy but he make it looks easy..
Thanks for the video Lance. The ferguson TE20 workshop manual doesn't give clutch fingers heights, as they used a clutch tool to set the fingers. I was only replacing a clutch plate on my TEF. 30mm was right.
Yes 30 or 32mm seems to work.
Great cause l’m in the process of doing the seals and clutch🤞
Good luck!
G’day Lance, love watching your videos, Jam Pack full of info and advice. Noted that you mentioned the plastic clutch alignment tool being available on your site. Often buy my spares from your mob but on checking I can buy the clutch kit but can’t see the plastic tool. Do you still sell them. Btw, getting going a 55 garden art tea20. Got the shock of my live when I got it to run😊😊😊. Clutch totally stuck, disengage through the Howard’s reduction gear 😮😮. Cheers mate regards Peter
queenslandtractorspares.com.au/product/ferguson-single-clutch-aligning-tool/ that may help.
very near vernia and orange grease what fun
It sure is
Working out well ---good information
Yes, thank you
Clockwork ! Gearbox shaft next.👍
Go for it!
Great vid yet again lance. Is there much difference to the process for a mf35 with dual stage clutch?
Yes If you go to my MF135 6 speed series I did it on the 135 and your tractor will be very similar unless it is a real early one.
Great vid 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed
i have done that on zephyr it was hard to get my croch right then i had to do all again my thrush bearing was ngf
Bugger.
Lance, we've replaced a clutch in a tea20, but it won't disengage. We've put the clutch plate in as you show, is it possible that we've put the thrust bearing fork on the wrong way round thus not pushing the thrust bearing onto the clutch fingers far enough to disengage the drive line?
Regards from 🇬🇧
Certainly possible, pop it apart for a look is the best idea.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks Lance. I'll come back to you with the results for your future reference. Thanks mate, keep up the good work. Regards 🇬🇧
After studying your vids,I'd realised that I'd not adjusted the clutch pedal and Shaft correctly. All is good now with really good pedal.
@@09amusement great news
Hi Bundy, Followed your instructions and now I find the clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is fully depressed. I checked for 30mm on the spring tangs. Brand new pressure plate. Do these need adjusting? Have you seen a clutch that fails to disengage? Cheers
Try lifting the pedal slightly and see if that helps. On this tractor I had to adjust the pedal so it had a bit more free travel so it didnt drag from the fingers touching the clutch plate hub.
@@BundyBearsShed I tried adjusting with almost 0.0” clearance from up stop on the pedal shaft. Or am I doing it the wrong way? Does my head in sometimes. 😆
@@ereale3253 wrong way, give it say 40 or 50mm free play.
@@BundyBearsShed ok thanks, will try that. Thanks for taking the time to reply 👍
I put a clutch in my te20 and was going to test it like you showed by putting it in 4th gear. It moved backwards, how can that happen. Thanks for any info you can give me.
Did you put it in reverse by mistake?
@@BundyBearsShed No sir, I tried it in 2nd and 3rd and the same thing. I am totally puzzled by this, I just can't understand how this is happening.
@@terrynichols1653 as long as the tractor rolled freely with the pedal pushed down I think it sounds good
@@BundyBearsShed I had a block behind it and when it got tight against it I would push down on the clutch and it would roll forward freely. I guess I will put everything back together and start it up and see what happens. Thanks anyway from Kansas USA.
Another step forward...
Yes getting there
Are standard bolts OK for c/plate or should they be shoulder bolts?
Standard is fine.
My current issue is getting the flywheel back on, it only goes on one way, one orientation because of the tab that sticks out of the crank so I know the problem isnt that.
But the flywheel just wont properly seat on the crank, I can see the tab on the crank through the tab-recess on the flywheel, and I use measuring tape to and do the bolts up criss-cross pattern, but it still wont slide on properly, it sticks proud by almost a whole centimeter and then won't come in any further.
Anyone got any tips?
Hard to say, they usually go on easily. Are you sure the dowell is in deep enough?
@@BundyBearsShed Found the issues, the dowel was misshaped by just a little, there was a burr on it, used a small diamond needle file to round it off by a tad and that worked.
The other issue was the pilot bearing wasn't installed yet, and the rear recess for the pilot bearing makes it look like the flywheel wasn't properly seated against the crank all the way.
Used a caliper and found that it was off by a few mm's, not a whole cm 🤣