Outstanding video. That is the most versatile sluice I have ever seen and to catch all the gold in the top three riffles is crazy. I must build one this winter. Thanks for the shout out and all of your help with the mats. It's crazy how well the gold sticks to the silicone I can't wait to try out my new drop riffle mat. Thanks again and take care.
Thanks for watching Alan and thanks a lot for making these mats possible. I have about 8 I have been exploring and I have really been surprised at how well they work. I have spent the past 2 weeks just running tests 4 hours a day and shooting videos with different sluices and mat designs along with the rubber mats and I'll say one thing, the Silicone beats out the rubber every time. It has been really interesting watching close up how the gold interacts with these mats and how tight it sticks to different angles. If you want to build one and need any help, just let me know. Many thanks again.
Hi again Stephanie. I do remember. Thanks for stopping by again. Sounds like you've been busy. Hope the projects are working well for you. I use this sluice in a 10 gallon tote to make it more portable and so I can use it inside in the winter and so that determined the width. This sluice is 10-1/2" wide inside which is about the max for the catch basin I bought from Family Dollar store. The baseplate is 21" long X 10-1/2" wide X 1/2" thick. I use 1/2" cedar fencing for the baseplate to reduce weight but you can use 3/4" pine if you want. Home Depot and Lowe's sell 1/2" x 8" that you can glue together to make the width but it's about twice the price of the cedar. The water bar header is made from 2 pieces of 1x3 pine glued together. 1 piece sets at the end of the baseplate so the bottom is at the same level as the baseplate. The other sets on top of the baseplate and will stick up about 1/2" which you can cut off or leave. This allows you to screw from behind into the baseplate and also from the bottom which seals the header bar quite well. The slick plate is 7-1/4" long but with the angles it leaves the top 6" long. I cut a piece 1/4" x 1/4" on the end of the board so the mat can slide up under the end of the board to reduce water flowing under the mat. I made the Well 2-1/2" from back wall to the bottom edge of slickplate to see how I liked it. I like it but not a lot of difference. The water bar is 3/4" PVC on this one for additional water flow and so that only leaves about 3/4" from the front of the water bar to the bottom edge of the slickplate. You can adjust this to your liking. But you can see in the video how the 2-1/2" works. You may want to go the 3". I cut a 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep groove across the bottom of the Well at the base of the slickplate angle. This allows the gold to drop down into the groove out of the flow of the water. I made a new sluice with a 1/4" x 1/4" groove to see how I liked it. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. You want the groove to be wide enough for your snuffer bottle nozzle to fit. This groove really works well to protect the fine gold from getting washed out if you use the Well for a fluid bed. I use this for the very fine Gold like the minus 30 and smaller. When using I use a big double table spoon size spoon I bought from family dollar and I slide it up under the water bar so the spray washes off the dirt and fluidizes the dirt. This allows the gold to drop to the bottom of the Well where it gets washed down into the groove. You're right, the 3/4" high riffles on the mat are a little too high for this. In my testing I found that on the mold, I use 3/8" high x 5/8" wide square dowels and space them 1/2" apart. In the video the grooves are 1/2" and I decided I liked a little wider grooves. So I'm now making the mold dowels 5/8" wide. I will also try them 3/4" wide. The frame is made from 1/2" high x 3/4" wide square dowels. This will give you a 3/16" base to the mat which is a good height and makes a nice flexible mat. You will have to cut these on a table saw if you have one. You can buy square ones from Home Depot if you can't cut. I have an 800 GPH pump which is way too much and so I have a gas valve from Home Depot on it to cut the flow back to 300 GPH for the Miller Table to 5-600 GPH for the fluid bed and sluice. I hope this will help get you started. This sluice and mat is by far the best I have ever used and out of about 30 runs, no gold loss. I think you'll like it. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Yes that's plenty of info to get started, thanks a bunch. The miller table with the pond pump works great. Although next time I think I'll use the rustoleum chalkboard paint instead of the craft chalkboard paint I got at Michaels....couldn't find any other color but black at homedepot, and to get a can custom colored was expensive. The sluice I made as a river sluice since I couldn't swing an 1100gph pump at the time. I just didn't put a header board on it. The riffles are 3/4" spaced at 11/4" apart....I classified down to -12 and wanted to make sure there was enough space for the exchange. Boy did it work great! It was amazing watching the riffles go from blonde to black in seconds. The vortex was quite visible and I could literally snuffer up gold out of the troughs and the section that would have been the well. So I'm sold on plain 'ole drop riffles! For a little 2' sluice I was pleased and surprised at how much concetrates it produced. HOWEVER, trying to find the right spot in the creek with enough velocity to clear the 3/4" riffles was a paaain. So next summer I will be happily recirculating on the bank right next to where Im digging and classifying...lesson learned. :-} Thanks again Utah, you're the best.
@@stephaniedill9966 Thank you Stephanie and I'm glad to hear that things are working out well for you. Yea, the Rustoleum Chalkboard paint is the best I have found so far. A little pricey I know but I'm surprised at how much of it I use. I guess now you can see why I am such a big fan of the drop riffle sluices. This design has been around since Moses was a baby and it's still going strong. I have tried every design on the market and still keep coming back to it. I have Big Gold Hog and California sluices and I still do much better with my little drop riffles. Trying to set up in a stream was a big problem for me as well and after 3 years of messing with the Gold Hog and getting frustrated, I went to the recirculation route and never looked back. The thing is, you can calibrate your set up at home where you can take your time and then when you hit the field, you know you are going to catch all the gold that you put through the sluice. I also take a Walmart plastic dishpan and a 2 gallon bucket to set it on to do my panning. No more trying to find a spot to pan in the creek and sore back from bending over. You may want to try making one of these sluices for your cons. This goes through them rather quickly and leaves you with nice clean gold in the end. I am right now finishing up a mold for a new mat for it. I'm going to make the troughs 3/4" wide and the riffles 1/2" to hold more material. Love those Silicone mats. The gold really sticks to them. You might be interested in my winter project. It will be a zero loss recirculating high banker. It will be 10" wide and be able to fit in the same 10 gallon tote for portability. I built a small prototype 2 years ago and I loved it. I have refined the design and it will use a silicone mat instead of the hard riffles for quick easy clean out. Well, best of luck with your prospecting and I'd like you hear how you do.
@@stephaniedill9966 Yippers, I spent a whole summer testing it all over the state and shooting hundreds of video clips. I loved it. Unfortunately while I was putting all the clips together into the final video, my hard drive crashed and I lost all the clips and the video at the same time. I was going to scrap the project but since then it still nags at me because it worked so very well and it was my all time favorite sluice. I made a 16 inch version (look up G1 and G2 sluice box for an idea of what it was like except with much larger drop riffles) and it would handle a lot of material at once but it was more than I needed. This one will be kind of a hybrid cross between the G1 and this one. It will have 2 water sources, a fine water flow like this one and a dual crash box scrubber depending on the material running through it. The material will have 2 gold slow down sections and a large gold trap (think Gold Cube) to go through before it even hits all the riffles. It will have either a Silicone drop riffle mat like this one or hard riffles like yours. It will be primarily a fine gold sluice with interchangeable screens but mostly for 12 mesh and smaller material but it will have an inspection area where you can check the washed and cleaned oversize material for larger gold and gem stones before the material gets dumped. This may not be a high production model but mostly designed to catch every bit of gold no matter how small in the material run through it instead of only 20% like most sluices. So in the end you will probably work less dirt but get much more gold from what you work. I now need to build a few prototypes to work out the fine details. All the features have already been tested on other sluices so it's mostly working out how to combine them into one sluice. It also needs to be easy to build. It will certainly be different I can tell you. Stay tuned.
@@utahavalanch I can't wait to see this new banker! After watching this video several times I went to my miller table, cranked the water flow all the way up....around 200gph and fed into the well just like you do in this video....spoonful after spoonful right up under the spray bar. I was a little nervous at first because there are no riffles but the board was almost flat, very little angle. Only twice did a piece of gold come up out of the well but they just stopped on the plate, the rest of the gold stayed in the well. This is a much faster and accurate way of milling. If I were dumping material on top of the board I wouldn't be able to run the water that fast and keep up. So this got me to thinking about your mysterious highbanker :~) "How would he do it? How is he going to take high velocity, crashing water flow and slow it way down by the time it gets to the lower box? 2 gold slow down sections? 2 water inputs? hmmmmm" So just for fun I'm gonna take a guess, lol. At the head of the upper sluice is the crashbox, it could have spray bars like the the G1 or it could just be a longer header section with one bar spraying in reverse....towards the the material to erode away the edge of the dirt creating a slurry. The slurry then leaves that section and flows over a chalk plate which is also an inspection plate. The 45 deg angle on the plate delivers the slurry to the screen and the larger material skates pass the screen to a flatter section and stops for inspection of larger gold before being dumped. How am I doing so far? :~) Now this is where it gets tricky to me. So the slurry falls through the screen and into the gold trap, which is where the second water input is...somehow? This is where the water would have to slow. And I realize I could be way off here. Anyway, whatever comes out of the trap, again flows over a chalk plate which delivers it to the riffle section. Hmmm, maybe the trap is at the other end of the chalkplate right before the riffles. Well, that's what I got. I'm curious as to how close I am. Also, some ideas occurred to me as I was thinking this through, let me know if you want to hear `em.
Thanks Geno and thanks for watching. I have a lot of folks wanting to build these and I think I'll put out another video on just how to build them. There really isn't much to it once you get the hang of it and they sure work well for me.
Fantastic!!!! I’m glad you took time for another lesson!!!! That would absolutely solve my royal table issues.... the larger flakes just wash right off. Thank you!✅✅
Hey Wizard. Thanks for stopping by. You're right. I'm glad I did take the time, couldn't have done it without you. :-D I think you are really on some good gold with that beach sand and a good Miller Table is the only way to get all the gold. You can only catch 20% with a sluice. I can give you a hand with building one of these or fine tuning your Royal if you want.
Gteat sluice love it i have an idea that may work for taming the water output that is simpaly squeze a foam sponge under and a little in front of tube the idea is that the water might flow through it and autamaticaly smmoth out.keep the videos comming
Hi again Doublenotminer, thanks for taking the time to stop buy. This is really getting to be my favorite sluice. I have made about 30 runs with this varying the gold size and water and angle flow and so far I haven't found a single speck of gold in the tailings. There is so much sticky surface for gold that it just can't get away. Silicone mats are great. So now I have a good base to start fine tuning it to make it better. Fun stuff to play with.
So elegant! I love it! At 7:00 you can see the tiny perturbances as a bow-wave caused by the gold interrupting the flow on the miller table. The fun thing is this looks almost exactly like a slice of ground penetrating radar!
1kreature Hi 1kreature and thanks for watching. You're right. With the very shallow water flow on this sluice you can see a lot of interesting things that are normally covered up with a deeper water flow. It's interesting watching the waterflows over the Silicone mat.
John R. Give it a try, I think you'll like it. Suggestion on the hand dredge. For best results use a leather pump washer on the pump shaft. You just wet them up about 15 minutes before use and the self adjust. Last forever. See my update video on the dredge. I suggest buying one from gold-N-sand. They make hand dredges and sell the parts. They have great pump leathers. They sell them 2 at a time. They are much easier to mount than the EBay leathers.
Thank you very much for the measurements. My main interest was the miller table part, as it is my guess was right at 7 inches, again thank you for your time and answer.
Happy to help if I can. One thing to watch, I see some folks putting the water bar too high. The bottom of it should only be about 1/8” to 3/16” off the bottom of the deep well.
Prospector Ruby Hey Ruby, thanks for watching. I am really liking this unit. It's by far my all time favorite. It totally strips all gold out of any dirt you run though it. No muss, no fuss 😄
Have you considered running a slick- plate the opposite direction at the top of your sluice that forces water under the edge of the slick-plate? ( like the gold hog clean up sluice) maybe that would give more even water control, & it would also force pesky floater flakes under. You do AWSOME work! GREAT craftsmanship! I really like your triple sluice design.... GREAT CHANNEL!
Doug Nash Hi Doug, thank you and thanks for watching. Yes, I built one a couple of years ago just like that. It had a base like this one with the Deep Well without the spray bar and a spray bar powerhead like the multisluice. It had a 2foot long sluice with a Vortex mat. It worked beautifully. The sluice ended up being overkill as almost all the gold was caught in the Deep Well.
HD shovel Ed Hi Ed and thanks for watching. It really is and I'm more surprised than anyone on how well it's working. This totally strips all gold out of any dirt you run through it. The Silicone mat is really a gold magnet.
I know that I saw a video where you showed how to build this system. All we have is flour gold and this looks perfect. I am a diy guy please sent a link to the diy video...thanks Mike
Hi Michael and thanks for watching. I have a video out on making the Miller Table here: ruclips.net/video/ktDZzlkm0H8/видео.html The construction is the same for both of them except the sluice has a shorter deck than the Miller Table. I’m trying to get another build video out but I’ve been down with pneumonia for several months but I’m still working on it.
The chalk board paint did not work too well for me on super fine Washington beach gold so I tried blue plasti-dip spray. Works great for me. Just wondering if you ever tried it. Anyway, great job on you combination sluice.
Hi Whaler and thanks for watching. That is probably one of the few things I haven't tried over the years. I'll have to give it a try. I haven't had any problems with the black beach sands at all with the chalkboard paint. I have tried the Washington, Oregon, Michigan, Wisconsin, and 3 different ones from Alaska. I quite enjoy them and find them quite challenging. I'll have to give the plasti-dip a try. Thanks for passing along,
Another great one. Thanks. Where can you get this silicone mat from? Really enjoying watching all of your projects. I believe you're really inspiring a lot of people and enjoying yourself doing what you like to do. Good for you. Keep at it.
Thanks Sky and thanks for taking the time to watch. Yippers, You're right, I am really enjoying making and testing These things :-D I have tested most of the mats on the market over the years and this one is by far the best I have come across. Mainly because the gold likes to stick to it and not just slide across like with the others and it has large pockets that will catch the gold very easily and it can't wash out of them. Right now this is the only one there is, but if you will stay tuned, I'll show you how to make one very easily.
Hello, heard about you from Alan Robertson. You have some very good, informative videos. I like your step by step directions and video work. I have a question on this 3 way sluice. Is the Miller Table portion a silicone mat? If not, have you thought about using it with one? Thanks for any info and keep up the great videos. Rod In Oregon
Hi Rod and thanks for stopping by. Yes I have and I made a thinned down Silicone that you can just paint on like regular paint and I coated the deck with it. It works up to a point but doesn't work like a Miller Table should. On a miller table you want everything but the gold to wash off. With the Silicone, it hangs on to the Black sands as well because they are a metal, iron, and metals stick to the Silicone. So you have to have something that only gold will stick to. After 7 years of testing many paints, rubber sheets, shelf liners etc. I have found that the Chalkboard paint is by far the best. As you can see in the video it can be used to catch the gold or to slow it way down so that it will get caught in the top trough of the mat.
@@utahavalanch Thank you very much for the reply and your insight. I guess i will go with the paint and try to build one at least half as nice as the ones you build. Take care
@@rodkenton1249 Nah, I think you will be able to build one every bit as nice. It isn't that complicated. This is made out of very cheap lumber and only has 5 parts to it. I used a Cedar fence board, a 1x3 furring strip and a 1x6 piece of pine. The Chalkboard Paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard paint in the pint can. I had them mix the Teal color. A can of Helmsman's spar varnish and a bottle of Tightbond type III glue. There is a cedar board base plate, water bar header board made from 1x3, a deck or Miller Table plate made from the 1x6, and 2 side rails which can be made out of the cedar board or the 1x3. I am trying to get a video made on how to build one but in the meantime check out my video on "How to Build the Deep Well Miller Table". It's the same except the top deck is only 7" long instead of about 21". If you want to try a quick and dirty 8" version, for some practice, you can take an 8" pine board, cut a piece 20" long for the base board and another piece 7" long for the Miller Table Deck. Cut the 45 degree angles on the ends. Cut a 1/4" x 1/4" notch under the mat end for the mat to fit under. Cut 2 pieces of the 1x3 the same length as the base board width and glue them together. Check my Miller Table video on how to glue them and find where to drill the water bar hole. Drill the water bar hole with a 1-5/16" Forstner bit or hole saw. In the video I drill a 2 stage hole with the forstner bit going halfway through and then drill through the center of that with a 1-1/16" hole saw. Screw the header board to the base plate. Measure 2-1/2" from the water bar and then draw a line across the baseplate. That will be where the edge of your top deck will go. Then glue down the top deck. Cut the side rails out of the 1x3 to the length of the sluice and I usually go about 1-1/2" longer just for looks. Give everything at least 4 coats of spar varnish. Mask off the ends of the top plate and paint the top like in this video. I usually end up having to build things several times to get it right so this will give you some practice on what all is involved and get some of the tools. I'm working on the 3rd version of the video so I hope to have it out soon.
@@utahavalanch Thank you again and especially for the specs. I am going to try to get the materials and start on one Monday. Tomorrow i am heading up north a ways to pick up a Gold Cube from a fella. Plan on replacing the mats in the Cube with the Dream Mat mini and micro mats.
What happens if the water bar is installed 1/4- 3/8 “ from the back of fluid bed, not flush? And add the sample over the back side of the bar, directly into the incoming water, or not, operators choice?
Pete Bennett Hi Pete and thanks for watching. If you extended the spraybar away from the back wall and more toward the middle of the Deep Well, I would drill another line of holes spraying back toward the back wall as well as a set spraying straight down. With just the one set spraying down, there is a dead spot in that back area that doesn't get much water. Making 2 sets of holes and dumping the dirt behind the spraybar would fluidize the dirt much better and make it easier for the gold to drop out.
Utah.... Impressive video. This would seem to work well on the 50 to 300 micron gold found on the Green River in Easter Utah. The problem being the limited tonage one could run in a day. Any thoughts on making a slice large enough to run several tons/hour?
Hi Larry and thanks for watching. Yippers, I have watched many people try to work the Green over the past 65 years and try to get that gold. They have the mindset and equipment for big gold and that doesn’t work for fine gold. When you get to 30 mesh and smaller the dynamics change a lot. It requires different equipment and you need to understand how fine gold reacts. At those sizes, gold is the lightest material you are working with and you have to build and run your equipment with that in mind. I do mostly urban prospecting now days and the gold I work with is in the 50 - 300 range and so I started building my own equipment when I couldn’t find anything on the market that could work with that size gold. I have a highbanker and this sluice as well as Miller tables that let me strip the gold out of any material. I love the challenge. I have helped miners in Africa and Mexico build this type sluice to do what you are interested in and I have heard from prospectors in 7 countries who are having success with getting the flour gold with it. The sluice sizes in Africa and Mexico were in the 20” wide X 12’ - 15’ long and the gold they are working with is in the minus 100 range. They are making the deep trough Silicon drop riffle mats as well and built my Miller Table deign to clean their cons on. Commercial sluices lose 90% of the fine gold and this design would capture it so although your production amount of dirt run would be much smaller, you would have a greater amount of gold. Before Covid hit, I was getting about 8 times more gold out of this small unit and running way less dirt than i was with my big Gold Hog sluice. Fine gold takes a very long time to settle down through the slurry because it’s so light and the high water flow of commercial sluices doesn’t ever let it settle. So it gets blown out. With this sluice, the gold hits the deck when the dirt is dumped on it and it sticks to the special paint so it doesn’t get caught in the main flow. Subsequent dumps of dirt will slowly push the gold down into the mat. The mat is made of Silicone that the gold sticks to like flypaper. So once that gold touches Silicone, it sticks. So this mini sluice has 16” of flypaper the gold has to go through to get out. Nothing has made it out yet. Anyway, you could try building a larger version of this and give it a try to see how it would work for you. If not, one of these would make a good cleanup table for your cons.
Well done Utah! Don't know if you remember our long chat last year sometime, but this type of sluice is what I was talking about. Nice. I did build the wooden drop riffle sluice and the miller table and I was going to build one like this one that would take homemade mats and you beat me to it. :~) I've gotten better at working with the silicone. Question: how long is the slick plate, 6...8"? I'm assuming the well is still 3" long and the width is 12"...correct? Also, how deep are the riffles? Seems like 3/4" would be to deep. In other words the height of the riffles should be the same as the slickplate...correct? Thanks for posting this video and for putting with all my questions. ;
STEPHANIE DILL Hi Stephanie. Somehow my answer didn't get posted to your question but to the general info. Hope you can read it there. If not let me know and I'll repost it to your question.
I really like all of your videos they are very informative. Keep up the good work. I have a question, for the slick plate do you paint it first then run it through the table saw for the angle cuts on the end? Or cut it first then tape it before painting? It looks sharp having the two colours
Will Barton Hi Will and thanks for watching. I cut the angles first and round the edges and give it a good sanding. Then I glue it to the baseboard and give all of it about 6 coats of Helmsman Spar Varnish. Next I mask off the rounded ends and paint the top with Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint in the pint can. They have to mix the color for you and I like this color. It is called Teal. The reason I do this is the gold slides on the Varnish but it will stick to the paint. If you use the Deep Well as a fluid bed then the curved and varnished surface makes it easy for the lighter material to get washed out and the gold will sink to the bottom. If you use it as a Miller Table, the gold will stick to top deck and the rest of the material will wash off. If you use it as a sluice and increase the water flow, then the gold will try to stick but won't be able to and will slowly slide down and get caught in the mat. The gold dragging on the paint helps to keep it from getting washed on out of the sluice. Fine gold can get washed out very easily and this will help to prevent that.
Thank you for the pointers. I am going to make the same one as this video. I am also going to put the 1/4” notch on the end so the silicone mat fits underneath. I was wondering where you got the 600 gph pump from. Anything I can find is pretty expensive
Hi Tom and thanks for watching. This is getting to be my all time favorite sluice. In my video “running the 10” mat”, you can see it and the mat in action. The video for making the mat mold you can find here. ruclips.net/video/c38HhlgQejs/видео.html
I was wondering if you could rather than 3-D printing molds like Alan Robertson does, if they could be made of wood using a router and a table saw or combo slide chop saw or any combination if not all of the above. If the patterns repeat every 4"'s or so, then make them 4". Then when put in the mold frame, one could use different combinations. Make a jig, knock them out, might be fun. I don't know if that plastic wood would work as I hear it melts fairly easily. What do you think? Love your videos!
Hi Dani and thanks for watching. I don't have a printer so I have to make all my stuff out of wood. Yes, there is a way to make these very easily out of wood. You can see what the finished product looks like in this video and my last one on the 8 inch version and also in an upcoming video where I make a 1/4" mat. I use a base of 1/2" cedar (cedar fencing actually) and square wooden dowels you can buy from Home Depot or Lowes. These dowels come in all different diameters from 1/4" up to 1-1/2". The one in this video and the previous one has a frame that can be made with a 1/2" dowel and the troughs are made from a 3/8" dowel. You just cut the dowel pieces to length and glue them down to the base board. You can make the mold to any width and length you want. To make a mat longer, rather than glue pieces together like Alan does, I put 2 of the riffles back into the end of the mold and then just add more silicone to make another mat that includes the end of the previous mat. It makes a totally invisible seam. The mat in my previous video was done that way. You cannot see the seam even when you look close up. The mat in this video, I had a problem cutting it to width and had almost a 1/4" gap down the side. I put it back in the mold and made it longer and then recut it and now it's perfect. If a mat gets damaged, you can just squirt a little silicone on the hole or rip and put it back into the mold, let it set up and it's as good as new. These mats are very tough and very easily to repair if they get damaged. It takes a lot to damage one. Yippers, I have videos coming on that as well. I'm getting old and slow and I have 6 projects I'm currently working on. So stay tuned I'm slowly getting there. :-D
@@utahavalanch now you got me thinking. Cut the riffles out of wood and attach them to a base to make the mold, all out of wood. Can even rip down round dowels for different effects as well as heights. Make short (4" or so) different molds and mix and match placing them in the mold frame and see which pattern works the best. It would make it very customizable. Score the tops with a utility blade for more grabbing power. This is a great hobby! I love this! Can't wait for the next video.
@@Dani-rx1sv Yippers, Dani, now you are getting the idea. Only limit is your imagination. The thing is, that you can make a mold and try it out and if it doesn't work, Oh, well, just try another one till you get one you like. Yep, now you can see why I like this as well. Also the sluices are just as easy to build and they work better than anything on the market. And you can use them to try out all of your new creations. I am making a bare bones sluice for Newbies that is very simple to make and it is really great for testing new mat ideas on. I wasn't planning on it being much of a project but now I'm finding a lot of uses for it. Trying to get a video out on it if I can quit playing with it long enough to finish the video. :-D
@@utahavalanch I am one of these people who is all thumbs . One that I made would be very slow for me to do and very sloppy . Here is my E-Mail JIMNBAMA@GMAIL.COM If you might be interested in making me one let me know . We can work out the details later .
Nabi Yunus (Yūnus):35 - Katakanlah: "Apakah di antara sekutu-sekutumu ada yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran?" Katakanlah "Allah-lah yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran". Maka apakah orang-orang yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran itu lebih berhak diikuti ataukah orang yang tidak dapat memberi petunjuk kecuali (bila) diberi petunjuk? Mengapa kamu (berbuat demikian)? Bagaimanakah kamu mengambil keputusan?
Hi Skip, it would. This is about the maximum length to fit a Home Depot 10 gallon Hefty or I guess now it’s a Husky tote. Any longer and the weight of the water in the well makes it fall backwards off the tote and you have to tie it down with a bungi cord. However if you use one of my PVC adjustable stands or a fixed PVC frame stand you can make it any length and width you want. This one is a 10” wide sluice but I’m now making an 8” because I have a lot of mats for it. This is a fun sluice to run as you can see if there is gold in the dirt as soon as you put material on the deck. (See my “running 10” mat video”) All the other material will wash off immediately but the gold sticks if the water level is slower or it will just slide slowly down the deck if it is higher. When you do a cleanup, you can slow the water down and use the deck for a Miller Table to clean the cons. The mat on this is the same one I made the videos on and it does a great job of catching gold. Anyway here are the specs as far as the length. These work for any width sluice. I have folks making them 20” wide. Base plate 20” long Miller Deck 7-1/2” long Mat 10” long Side Rails 22” long. Deep Well from inside back wall to edge of deck. 2-1/2” This is if you want to use the well as a fluid bed sluice. If you are making a Miller Table, then you can make it 3” to give you a smoother water flow. If you don’t want to use the fluid bed sluice part, then you don’t have to cut the 45 degree angle on the deck. Just round the sharp corner off. You can do the same on the mat end. If you cut a slot on the mat end so the mat can slide under the edge of the deck, that will help to keep some of the water from going under the mat and letting gold escape under it. Hope this helps. If you have any questions just ask.
Montana With the crafty spray bar, what angle do the holes point. At the base plate or the seam between the base plate and header bar? I’m currently working on this awesome separator. I had already previously purchased some of Alan’s molds. All the gold I’m currently getting is very fine.
Hi James and thanks for watching. Well this sluice with his mats will work very well for you. It is a real fine gold catcher. It only needs about a 600 gallon pump to work with it. Fine gold is very light and flat so it doesn’t take much to blow it out. I sand the ends that go into the “Tee” down so they turn easier. That way you can adjust them on the fly to give you the best flow. Usually I point them at the back for smooth water and straight down or slightly to the front if I’m using the Deep Well for a fluid bed. Also keep the space between the bottom of the spray bar and the base at about 3/16” and no more than 1/4”. Good luck on your build and if you have any questions just ask.
@@utahavalanch Thank you for the quick reply. I’m looking forward to getting this completed. I’ve got plenty of material to practice with. I’ve got a 1100 GPM pump with a speed flow controller. Thank you again for the information, I’ll let you know how i fair. Be well.
@@copter1doc Sounds like you’re about set. I would like to hear how it works for you. I mostly do urban prospecting now days and I found that If you screen that fine silty dirt through a 60 and 100 mesh screen, turn your water flow down to about 300 GPH and run each of those separate, you can recover gold down in the 200 mesh and smaller range. Especially if you use silicone mats. Best of luck.
Kirk Aldous I’m sorry, but I am not able to sell over the Internet. I have made a video on how to make my Miller Table and you build it the same way except the top deck is smaller. Have a great day.
Hi Utah... How long is this one? How much of it is Miller and how much mat? Also what are the specs for the mat riffles please? Thanks for all you do and I hope your doing better. I have already built your Miller table and it works great altho I am trying to get the angle and flow just right. I have the HF 264 pump.
Hi Intown. I made my equipment to fit a 10 gallon tote so I can pack it around or use in the house in the winter.. You can make the sizes to fit your needs. For my tote, The specs are: Base board 21” long x 10” wide. I also have them in 6” and 8” wide. Miller Deck 7” long Side rails 2-1/2” high x 23” long. Header board 2-1/2” high x width of base board. Mat mold 2 different molds: Store bought square dowels: 5/8”x5/8” for frame. 1/2”x1/2” for inner dowels. Space between inner dowels 1/4” to 1/2”. Video has 1/2” space. Hand made on table saw: Frame 5/8” high x 5/8” wide. Inner Dowels 1/2” high x 3/4” wide. Frame 2 3/4”high x 5/8” wide. Inner dowels 5/8” high x 3/4” wide. Space between dowels 1/4” to 1/2” I like the 3/4” wide troughs on my mat as they hold much more material and catch the gold easier. You can easily pan the cons or run them on your Miller Table. If you want a mat similar to a Commercial Deep V mat but with more storage. Frame 3 1/2” high x 1/2” wide Inner dowels 1/4” high x 1/4” wide. Space between dowels 1/4” Miller Table: I made my hose from 3/4” bilge pump tubing. I bought a 3” gas valve and the 3/4” nylon hose barbs to connect the hose to it from Home Depot. Get the MIP thread on the barbs. This hose will fit on your harbor freight pump as well as a 300 to 800 GPH Bilge pump and allow you to fine tune you water flow very smoothly. I use an 800GPH pump with a digital motor speed controller from Ebay and that way I can use it for the Miller Table as well as the sluice. 800 GPH is the highest you want to go if you want to keep flower gold in the sluice. I set the angle on the table at about 3 - 4 degrees to start and a water flow of about 100 GPH. Then I sprinkle black sand that is the same mesh as the dirt I’m running on the table. Adjust the water flow or slightly adjust the angle of the table til the black sand just starts to move down the table. Now add your pay dirt. Always screen your dirt through 30, 40, 60 and 100 mesh screens and run each screening by its self with the water flow adjusted for it. You can buy mini 6” screen sets on Ebay that work great for this. Always screen and work these mesh sizes very carefully as that is where most of the gold is. A flat Taklon brush from the art dept at Walmart works very good for working the material on the table. I’m just taking it one day at a time thank you. The doctors messed me up pretty bad so I’m slow getting things done. Avoid docs. They don’t have your welfare in mind and go out of their way to make you worse. I hope this helps some. If you have any more questions just ask. Best of luck with your prospecting and building.
@@utahavalanch Thanks so much for the quick response and the measurements. Earlier this year we had hoped to come your way but we had some medical troubles also. We will keep you in our prayers and hope for a speedy and great recovery for you..
@@intown759 thank you very much. sorry to hear you have medical problems as well. Sure hope you get doing better. I’ll be glad when the med beds get here. I don’t know if you’re around any of the flooding or not but if you are, you might want to check out those areas if you are. Flood waters move a lot of material around and uncover a lot of gold. Look for streaks of black sand and take a lot of samples. This sluice works beautifully for that kind of material as it shows you immediately if you have gold or not.
@@fpelusoiv Hi Frank and thanks for watching. I’m sorry, I don’t. There was way to much demand for me to keep up with so I made a video on how to make this for those who would like one. They are quite easy to build so you might want to give it a try.
Hey I'm a fellow utahn I got a question I want to get into gold panning but as you know theres not much free mining areas here in utah where would be a pew places I can go to try panning for gold
tony cardwell Hi Tony and thanks for watching. Well, the main hotspot is American Fork river. There is gold the full length of it but most of the folks go above Tibble Fork reservoir. There is also gold in the Weber And Provo Rivers many of the small canyons south of Salt Lake have gold in them. Also there is gold all around us in the gutters, edge of the roadways, road construction piles etc. Home Depot all purpose sand has gold in it and is good practice. If you haven't panned before I would suggest you buy an inexpensive bag of paydirt from a reputable seller to practice with so you will know what looks like and you can see how it acts in the pan. A good seller I buy from on occasion is Tom's gold paydirt. You can find him at tomsgolddirt.com. His $27.00 bag has a good amount of gold in it and will give you some good practice. When you get it all panned out, put it back in the dirt and practice some more. There are a lot of videos on RUclips to show you how to pan. Best of luck. It's a fun hobby.
Kirk Aldous Hi Kirk and thanks for watching. Yes, this will work very well with the Cape Disappointment, Nome Beach and the Michigan and Wisconsin beach sands. If you watch my video “Deep Well Silicone Mat Sluice, at about 12:55 you can see some Cape Disappointment Beach sands being processed.
Hi again... building this 3way sluice per your 3/4 inch recommendations. Was wondering how you did the water bar for one like this? Hope your feeling better.
Hi Doug. Thank you and thanks for watching. The bottom of the water bar should be only about 3/16” to 1/4” above the base board. I see some folks getting it too high and if you put the sluice on a 10 degree angle, instead of being under water the holes are above it and squirting down from above the surface of the water and create many bubbles that you don’t want. I drill a row of 3/16” holes in the water bar 1/2” apart and and then a row set back slightly with the holes in between those. sometimes I enlarge them a bit with a tapered bit for more water flow. Don’t glue anything as you may want to change out the spray bars and try out different hole combinations. If you want to use the Deep Well as a fluid bed, cut a 45 degree angle on the upper edge of the deck. The well should be 2-1/2” wide measured from the face of the header board to the top edge of the deck. If you don’t want to use the well as a fluid bed, you don’t have to cut the 45 degree angle. Make the space 3” wide to give smoother water flow. Round off the upper edge a little to smooth out the water. The MillerTable Deck is 7” long . This can be lengthened if you want a larger deck but I made it this long as my sluice can only be 21” total to fit a tote and I have to fit a mat in here as well. If you make a separate PVC stand, you can make everything much longer. I really like this sluice as you can tell right away if there is gold in your dirt as it will stick to the top of the deck. Great for sampling dirt to see if there is gold. The Miller Table is very handy for cleaning up cons and if some gold floats down the table, the mat will catch it. Great all around unit. Good luck with your build and if you have any more questions, just ask.
@@dougbear3977 Hey Doug, No problem. Yes the water bar is the same for either the 1/2” or the 3/4”. On the Miller Tables I like the 1/2” tubing and on the sluices 3/4”. Although I have been running tests lately and It seems in actual use here isn’t a lot of difference. If you are working with fine gold, I recommend a 600 to 800GPH pump with an inline valve or a DC motor controller so you can fine tune the water flow. You can buy these on Ebay for about $10.00.
@@utahavalanch Hi again, If I understand you right to use as a fluid bed cut the 45 degree angle, should I also cut the 1/4 x 1/4 trough for catching the gold? Are you running yours on a battery? Looking forward to the high banker video.. take care and TFYS
@@dougbear3977 yippers. If you want to use the Fluid bed then you will want to cut the upper edge of the deck, the side facing the water bar at a 45 degree angle. This allows the dirt to flow up and out more easily. You also spray it with the spar varnish which allows the gold to slide back down into the deep well more easily. I like to cut the 1/4” groove across the bottom as it catches the gold in it and makes it easier to snuffer out. It also keeps the small gold out of the high turbulence so it will not wash out. Not necessary, but handy. The fluid bed is handy if you are going after the gold in the 100 and minus 100 meshes. You can reduce the water flow down to a very small amount and collect that almost invisible gold. The DC power controller makes adjusting the flow very easy. I like this sluice as if any gold escapes the fluid bed or slides off the Miller Table, it’s caught in the mat and you don’t have to rerun all the tailings to get it. If you use the Silicone mat, you have 12 - 14” of gold flypaper it has to go through to get out and if you control your water flow carefully, that won’t happen.
Mike Duran Hi Mike. Thanks for stopping by. The paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint in a pint can. They have to mix it for you. The color I like best is called Teal. It is a combination of Blue and Green and the gold shows up well on it. The gold tends to stick to it and everything else just slides right off. Its main job is to slow the gold down so it can be caught within the mat and not blown out if the water flow is too high. If the water flow is adjusted right. The gold will stay in the top Riffle of the mat.
Mike Duran Thanks Mike. I have so many people who want to build these. Im working on another video on how to build his one. Not much to them actually but they sure work well.
John R. Hi John and thanks for watching. If you saw the video I just put up on how to make a 10" Mold. It was identical to that. It's a homemade wood mold. You can make one using 1/2" square dowels for the frame and 3/8" square dowels for the troughs. You can buy the dowels at Home Depot and Lowe's.
I usually make mine to fit a particular tote. The base board is 21” x 10”. I use 2 1x3” pine boards for the header. One across the end of the base board and 1 across the top and glue them together and trim the top even with a saw. You can just use 1 across the back of the base board if you want. It’s easier to do. The Miller Deck I usually make 6” long but i’d recommend 8” so as to make a bigger Miller Table.Then you can use it as a dual unit. Run it as a sluice to get cons and then slow the water down and process the cons on the Miller Deck. For the side rails I usually cut a 1/2” cedar fence board down the middle but it would be easier to just use the same 1x3 that you used for the header. That way the side rails and header board are all the same height. You can make them any length you want so they are even with the end of the base board or extend past it a bit. For the deep well, I measure from the face of the header board to the edge of the Miller deck and make that 2-1/2” to 3 inches. 3” will give you a little smoother water flow. I put a board across the bottom of the sluice that sticks up about 1/4 - 1/2” so the mat doesn’t slide off. Extend it down about 3/4” below the base board. I cut a slot across the end of the Miller Deck 1/4” high x 1/2” deep so your mat slips up under the end of the deck. You can adjust the height to fit your mat. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need more.
Hi Robert and thanks for watching. The Miller Table part or the upper deck is made of 3/4 inch pine. I painted it with Rustoleum Chalkboard paint because the gold sticks to it and if you increase the water flow, it makes it so the gold moves slowly down the deck and into the top groove of the mat. That way it isn't getting blown out the end of the sluice and gets caught. The base it sits on is 1/2" cedar. You can buy different woods in the 1/2" thickness in your big box stores but I just use plain old cedar fencing because it is cheap and much lighter. I just sand it smooth and it works great. I use it for the side rails as well. The water bar header I make out of 1x3 furring strips. It can be used for the side rails as well so that the header and side rails are all the same height.
Rhino Cerous Hi Rhino and thanks for watching. The paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard Pant in the pint can. Gold really likes to stick to this paint for some reason.
@@douglaspohl1827 Hi Douglas. The Rhino Cerous was the name of the person i was responding to. The name of the paint is: Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint. You can find it in most paint stores or big box stores.
Hi aDoug. You tube won’t show me your question so I hope you will see this. You are correct. You have to have it mixed by the paint store. It is just white tint base in the can. On the side of the can are about 9 different colors they can mix it in. You just pick the color and tell the paint store employee what it is and they will mix it for you. The color I use is called “Teal”. Hope this helps.
c shackleford Hi C and thanks for watching. This is the final video. The Deep Well area where the spray bar is located is the Fluid Bed. It's a small one but it works very well. When you dump the dirt down into the running water under the spray bar, it fluidizes it and causes the heavier material like the gold to drop out and move down to the bottom of the well where it stays. The lighter material is washed out leaving only the heaviest material. If you turn the water flow way down, you can dump very fine minus 100 mesh material down in there and it will separate it out and leave just the super fine gold in the bottom. Hope this helps.
@@utahavalanch Thanks for the reply. OK, I was thinking this sluice is an excellent idea! it can be used in multiple ways. I will attempt to build this project. You have excellent ideas and projects. I have a better idea of how these sluices should work, and why. Hope that you continue with videos, i love them ! Thanks!
@@13orangeleaf This so far the best sluice design I have been able to come up with in my testing all the designs on the market over the past 12 years. Only one other design worked well and so I ended up trying to design one that met my needs for working with the very fine gold we have and this is it so far. This design is really quite simple and there are only about 5 pieces to it. I'm trying to get a basic how to build video out on it. You can check out my video on how to build the Deep Well Miller table for some help in the meantime. They are the same except for the length of the top deck. The Silicone mat on it is a super gold catcher that really improves it's efficiency. Videos coming on that as well.
utahavalanch Thanks again for your reply, I was thinking about your design before I slept last night, thinking about how well it caught fine gold, then a light came on! This thing will catch any gold and can possibly be used in multiple applications. It is a fairly simple design, and I can understand how people not using a well designed sluice and controlling the water flow are probably losing a lot of fine gold.
@@13orangeleaf They say 80% of the gold is in the 30 mesh and smaller if you are familiar with mesh sizes. That is true and that's all I want. :-D Any way I do a bit of testing for other prospectors of their tailings and I find out that almost all of them claim they don't lose anything but I find they are losing 80% of their fine gold. I see that 80% of the prospectors on RUclips are losing most of their fine gold. All the gold I'm going after is very small. So I really need a good reliable system to catch it all. And this sluice is doing it for me. If you saw my video on Urban prospecting with my grandson, then you can see a lot of what we do now. Gold is in the dirt all around us, in the gutters, construction dirt piles, gravel alongside highways, parking lots Home Depot sand. All you have to do is just take small samples to test and then come back for more if there is gold in it. You would be surprised at the places you will find gold. And that is the most fun aspect of this type of prospecting.
Hi William and thanks for watching. Sorry, I don't. I'm not set up to sell right now. I have a lot of people who want them and I'm trying to make some videos showing how to make them. It really is a very simple design and not that hard to build. The mat is really easy to build as well and can be used in any sluices.
Kirk Aldous Hi Kirk. I’m sorry, I don’t as I don’t have any way to sell over the Internet. These are quite easy to build and I have a video out on how to build my Deep Well Miller Table which is about the same except you make the top deck shorter to make this one. I’m currently working on another “How To” video on how to make these. All you need to make a basic one is a saw a drill and a couple of bits. Check back off and on for it.
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Outstanding video. That is the most versatile sluice I have ever seen and to catch all the gold in the top three riffles is crazy. I must build one this winter. Thanks for the shout out and all of your help with the mats. It's crazy how well the gold sticks to the silicone I can't wait to try out my new drop riffle mat. Thanks again and take care.
Thanks for watching Alan and thanks a lot for making these mats possible. I have about 8 I have been exploring and I have really been surprised at how well they work. I have spent the past 2 weeks just running tests 4 hours a day and shooting videos with different sluices and mat designs along with the rubber mats and I'll say one thing, the Silicone beats out the rubber every time.
It has been really interesting watching close up how the gold interacts with these mats and how tight it sticks to different angles. If you want to build one and need any help, just let me know. Many thanks again.
I am also looking forward to your new Drop Riffle mat. I think it's going to really work well for you. May have to wait til spring though. :-D
Hi again Stephanie. I do remember. Thanks for stopping by again. Sounds like you've been busy. Hope the projects are working well for you. I use this sluice in a 10 gallon tote to make it more portable and so I can use it inside in the winter and so that determined the width. This sluice is 10-1/2" wide inside which is about the max for the catch basin I bought from Family Dollar store. The baseplate is 21" long X 10-1/2" wide X 1/2" thick. I use 1/2" cedar fencing for the baseplate to reduce weight but you can use 3/4" pine if you want. Home Depot and Lowe's sell 1/2" x 8" that you can glue together to make the width but it's about twice the price of the cedar. The water bar header is made from 2 pieces of 1x3 pine glued together. 1 piece sets at the end of the baseplate so the bottom is at the same level as the baseplate. The other sets on top of the baseplate and will stick up about 1/2" which you can cut off or leave. This allows you to screw from behind into the baseplate and also from the bottom which seals the header bar quite well.
The slick plate is 7-1/4" long but with the angles it leaves the top 6" long. I cut a piece 1/4" x 1/4" on the end of the board so the mat can slide up under the end of the board to reduce water flowing under the mat.
I made the Well 2-1/2" from back wall to the bottom edge of slickplate to see how I liked it. I like it but not a lot of difference. The water bar is 3/4" PVC on this one for additional water flow and so that only leaves about 3/4" from the front of the water bar to the bottom edge of the slickplate. You can adjust this to your liking. But you can see in the video how the 2-1/2" works. You may want to go the 3". I cut a 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep groove across the bottom of the Well at the base of the slickplate angle. This allows the gold to drop down into the groove out of the flow of the water. I made a new sluice with a 1/4" x 1/4" groove to see how I liked it. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. You want the groove to be wide enough for your snuffer bottle nozzle to fit. This groove really works well to protect the fine gold from getting washed out if you use the Well for a fluid bed. I use this for the very fine Gold like the minus 30 and smaller. When using I use a big double table spoon size spoon I bought from family dollar and I slide it up under the water bar so the spray washes off the dirt and fluidizes the dirt. This allows the gold to drop to the bottom of the Well where it gets washed down into the groove.
You're right, the 3/4" high riffles on the mat are a little too high for this. In my testing I found that on the mold, I use 3/8" high x 5/8" wide square dowels and space them 1/2" apart. In the video the grooves are 1/2" and I decided I liked a little wider grooves. So I'm now making the mold dowels 5/8" wide. I will also try them 3/4" wide. The frame is made from 1/2" high x 3/4" wide square dowels. This will give you a 3/16" base to the mat which is a good height and makes a nice flexible mat. You will have to cut these on a table saw if you have one. You can buy square ones from Home Depot if you can't cut.
I have an 800 GPH pump which is way too much and so I have a gas valve from Home Depot on it to cut the flow back to 300 GPH for the Miller Table to 5-600 GPH for the fluid bed and sluice. I hope this will help get you started.
This sluice and mat is by far the best I have ever used and out of about 30 runs, no gold loss. I think you'll like it. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Yes that's plenty of info to get started, thanks a bunch. The miller table with the pond pump works great. Although next time I think I'll use the rustoleum chalkboard paint instead of the craft chalkboard paint I got at Michaels....couldn't find any other color but black at homedepot, and to get a can custom colored was expensive.
The sluice I made as a river sluice since I couldn't swing an 1100gph pump at the time. I just didn't put a header board on it. The riffles are 3/4" spaced at 11/4" apart....I classified down to -12 and wanted to make sure there was enough space for the exchange. Boy did it work great! It was amazing watching the riffles go from blonde to black in seconds. The vortex was quite visible and I could literally snuffer up gold out of the troughs and the section that would have been the well. So I'm sold on plain 'ole drop riffles! For a little 2' sluice I was pleased and surprised at how much concetrates it produced. HOWEVER, trying to find the right spot in the creek with enough velocity to clear the 3/4" riffles was a paaain. So next summer I will be happily recirculating on the bank right next to where Im digging and classifying...lesson learned. :-}
Thanks again Utah, you're the best.
@@stephaniedill9966
Thank you Stephanie and I'm glad to hear that things are working out well for you. Yea, the Rustoleum Chalkboard paint is the best I have found so far. A little pricey I know but I'm surprised at how much of it I use. I guess now you can see why I am such a big fan of the drop riffle sluices. This design has been around since Moses was a baby and it's still going strong. I have tried every design on the market and still keep coming back to it. I have Big Gold Hog and California sluices and I still do much better with my little drop riffles.
Trying to set up in a stream was a big problem for me as well and after 3 years of messing with the Gold Hog and getting frustrated, I went to the recirculation route and never looked back. The thing is, you can calibrate your set up at home where you can take your time and then when you hit the field, you know you are going to catch all the gold that you put through the sluice.
I also take a Walmart plastic dishpan and a 2 gallon bucket to set it on to do my panning. No more trying to find a spot to pan in the creek and sore back from bending over.
You may want to try making one of these sluices for your cons. This goes through them rather quickly and leaves you with nice clean gold in the end. I am right now finishing up a mold for a new mat for it. I'm going to make the troughs 3/4" wide and the riffles 1/2" to hold more material. Love those Silicone mats. The gold really sticks to them.
You might be interested in my winter project. It will be a zero loss recirculating high banker. It will be 10" wide and be able to fit in the same 10 gallon tote for portability. I built a small prototype 2 years ago and I loved it. I have refined the design and it will use a silicone mat instead of the hard riffles for quick easy clean out. Well, best of luck with your prospecting and I'd like you hear how you do.
@@utahavalanch
Definitely would be interested in your winter project...recirculating high banker. Have you made a video of it?
@@stephaniedill9966
Yippers, I spent a whole summer testing it all over the state and shooting hundreds of video clips. I loved it. Unfortunately while I was putting all the clips together into the final video, my hard drive crashed and I lost all the clips and the video at the same time. I was going to scrap the project but since then it still nags at me because it worked so very well and it was my all time favorite sluice. I made a 16 inch version (look up G1 and G2 sluice box for an idea of what it was like except with much larger drop riffles) and it would handle a lot of material at once but it was more than I needed. This one will be kind of a hybrid cross between the G1 and this one. It will have 2 water sources, a fine water flow like this one and a dual crash box scrubber depending on the material running through it. The material will have 2 gold slow down sections and a large gold trap (think Gold Cube) to go through before it even hits all the riffles. It will have either a Silicone drop riffle mat like this one or hard riffles like yours. It will be primarily a fine gold sluice with interchangeable screens but mostly for 12 mesh and smaller material but it will have an inspection area where you can check the washed and cleaned oversize material for larger gold and gem stones before the material gets dumped. This may not be a high production model but mostly designed to catch every bit of gold no matter how small in the material run through it instead of only 20% like most sluices. So in the end you will probably work less dirt but get much more gold from what you work.
I now need to build a few prototypes to work out the fine details. All the features have already been tested on other sluices so it's mostly working out how to combine them into one sluice. It also needs to be easy to build. It will certainly be different I can tell you. Stay tuned.
@@utahavalanch
I can't wait to see this new banker! After watching this video several times I went to my miller table, cranked the water flow all the way up....around 200gph and fed into the well just like you do in this video....spoonful after spoonful right up under the spray bar. I was a little nervous at first because there are no riffles but the board was almost flat, very little angle. Only twice did a piece of gold come up out of the well but they just stopped on the plate, the rest of the gold stayed in the well. This is a much faster and accurate way of milling. If I were dumping material on top of the board I wouldn't be able to run the water that fast and keep up.
So this got me to thinking about your mysterious highbanker :~) "How would he do it? How is he going to take high velocity, crashing water flow and slow it way down by the time it gets to the lower box? 2 gold slow down sections? 2 water inputs? hmmmmm"
So just for fun I'm gonna take a guess, lol.
At the head of the upper sluice is the crashbox, it could have spray bars like the the G1 or it could just be a longer header section with one bar spraying in reverse....towards the the material to erode away the edge of the dirt creating a slurry. The slurry then leaves that section and flows over a chalk plate which is also an inspection plate. The 45 deg angle on the plate delivers the slurry to the screen and the larger material skates pass the screen to a flatter section and stops for inspection of larger gold before being dumped. How am I doing so far? :~)
Now this is where it gets tricky to me. So the slurry falls through the screen and into the gold trap, which is where the second water input is...somehow? This is where the water would have to slow. And I realize I could be way off here. Anyway, whatever comes out of the trap, again flows over a chalk plate which delivers it to the riffle section.
Hmmm, maybe the trap is at the other end of the chalkplate right before the riffles.
Well, that's what I got. I'm curious as to how close I am. Also, some ideas occurred to me as I was thinking this through, let me know if you want to hear `em.
You sure make some nice tables. Using your instructions on the build has made my gold recovery much better. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks Geno and thanks for watching. I have a lot of folks wanting to build these and I think I'll put out another video on just how to build them. There really isn't much to it once you get the hang of it and they sure work well for me.
Fantastic!!!! I’m glad you took time for another lesson!!!! That would absolutely solve my royal table issues.... the larger flakes just wash right off. Thank you!✅✅
Hey Wizard. Thanks for stopping by. You're right. I'm glad I did take the time, couldn't have done it without you. :-D I think you are really on some good gold with that beach sand and a good Miller Table is the only way to get all the gold. You can only catch 20% with a sluice. I can give you a hand with building one of these or fine tuning your Royal if you want.
Thank you!!!!!
Gteat sluice love it i have an idea that may work for taming the water output that is simpaly squeze a foam sponge under and a little in front of tube the idea is that the water might flow through it and autamaticaly smmoth out.keep the videos comming
Yes 🤔 maybe a very coarse sponge type material, or stainless steel wool.
Once again a excellent build. Also, your workmanship on the sluice is superb. Good to see another great video.
Hi again Doublenotminer, thanks for taking the time to stop buy. This is really getting to be my favorite sluice. I have made about 30 runs with this varying the gold size and water and angle flow and so far I haven't found a single speck of gold in the tailings. There is so much sticky surface for gold that it just can't get away. Silicone mats are great. So now I have a good base to start fine tuning it to make it better. Fun stuff to play with.
I like it ! Definitely shows your pride and patience in building such a unit .
Bryan Mitiner
Hi Bryan, thanks and thanks for watching.
So elegant! I love it!
At 7:00 you can see the tiny perturbances as a bow-wave caused by the gold interrupting the flow on the miller table.
The fun thing is this looks almost exactly like a slice of ground penetrating radar!
1kreature
Hi 1kreature and thanks for watching. You're right. With the very shallow water flow on this sluice you can see a lot of interesting things that are normally covered up with a deeper water flow. It's interesting watching the waterflows over the Silicone mat.
Wow, thanks, I slowly bought all the pieces to the diy hand dredge from your video. Can’t wait to give it a go! Thanks!
John R.
Give it a try, I think you'll like it. Suggestion on the hand dredge. For best results use a leather pump washer on the pump shaft. You just wet them up about 15 minutes before use and the self adjust. Last forever. See my update video on the dredge. I suggest buying one from gold-N-sand. They make hand dredges and sell the parts. They have great pump leathers. They sell them 2 at a time. They are much easier to mount than the EBay leathers.
Thank you very much for the measurements. My main interest was the miller table part, as it is my guess was right at 7 inches, again thank you for your time and answer.
Happy to help if I can. One thing to watch, I see some folks putting the water bar too high. The bottom of it should only be about 1/8” to 3/16” off the bottom of the deep well.
You do a great job both in the instruction end of this and the wood work is just great, your a master both ways Sir.
Thank you very much Skip and thanks for watching.
Another great addition! Love your peojects!
Michael Zapp
Thanks Michael and thanks for watching.
Nice improvements. It’s very versatile.
Prospector Ruby
Hey Ruby, thanks for watching. I am really liking this unit. It's by far my all time favorite. It totally strips all gold out of any dirt you run though it. No muss, no fuss 😄
Have you considered running a slick- plate the opposite direction at the top of your sluice that forces water under the edge of the slick-plate? ( like the gold hog clean up sluice) maybe that would give more even water control, & it would also force pesky floater flakes under. You do AWSOME work! GREAT craftsmanship! I really like your triple sluice design.... GREAT CHANNEL!
Doug Nash
Hi Doug, thank you and thanks for watching. Yes, I built one a couple of years ago just like that. It had a base like this one with the Deep Well without the spray bar and a spray bar powerhead like the multisluice. It had a 2foot long sluice with a Vortex mat. It worked beautifully. The sluice ended up being overkill as almost all the gold was caught in the Deep Well.
Still improving on the great water table. It's getting very versatile now.
HD shovel Ed
Hi Ed and thanks for watching. It really is and I'm more surprised than anyone on how well it's working. This totally strips all gold out of any dirt you run through it. The Silicone mat is really a gold magnet.
Nice little cleanup machine !
Thank you Richard and thanks for watching. It is really evolving into the best finishing sluice I have ever tried.
I know that I saw a video where you showed how to build this system. All we have is flour gold and this looks perfect. I am a diy guy please sent a link to the diy video...thanks
Mike
Hi Michael and thanks for watching. I have a video out on making the Miller Table here:
ruclips.net/video/ktDZzlkm0H8/видео.html
The construction is the same for both of them except the sluice has a shorter deck than the Miller Table. I’m trying to get another build video out but I’ve been down with pneumonia for several months but I’m still working on it.
this is what ai been lookin fer beachminein thank ya fer showin,, thank ya fer the video
russ sherwood
Thanks for watching. This sluice is about the only one I've found over the years that can catch all of that tiny black beach sand gold.
Love you so much sir❤❤❤
Thank you very much and thanks for watching.
The chalk board paint did not work too well for me on super fine Washington beach gold so I tried blue plasti-dip spray. Works great for me. Just wondering if you ever tried it. Anyway, great job on you combination sluice.
Hi Whaler and thanks for watching. That is probably one of the few things I haven't tried over the years. I'll have to give it a try. I haven't had any problems with the black beach sands at all with the chalkboard paint. I have tried the Washington, Oregon, Michigan, Wisconsin, and 3 different ones from Alaska. I quite enjoy them and find them quite challenging. I'll have to give the plasti-dip a try. Thanks for passing along,
Very nice videos, thanks!!!
Thank you Diego and thanks for watching.
Another great one. Thanks.
Where can you get this silicone mat from? Really enjoying watching all of your projects. I believe you're really inspiring a lot of people and enjoying yourself doing what you like to do. Good for you. Keep at it.
Thanks Sky and thanks for taking the time to watch. Yippers, You're right, I am really enjoying making and testing These things :-D I have tested most of the mats on the market over the years and this one is by far the best I have come across. Mainly because the gold likes to stick to it and not just slide across like with the others and it has large pockets that will catch the gold very easily and it can't wash out of them. Right now this is the only one there is, but if you will stay tuned, I'll show you how to make one very easily.
Nice work
shaun schollaert
Thank you and thanks for watching.
That is AWESOME!!!
Billy Snake'Hawk's Adventure's
Thank you and thanks for watching. That's what I'm thinking as well after several weeks of heavy testing.
Hello, heard about you from Alan Robertson. You have some very good, informative videos. I like your step by step directions and video work. I have a question on this 3 way sluice. Is the Miller Table portion a silicone mat? If not, have you thought about using it with one? Thanks for any info and keep up the great videos. Rod In Oregon
Hi Rod and thanks for stopping by. Yes I have and I made a thinned down Silicone that you can just paint on like regular paint and I coated the deck with it. It works up to a point but doesn't work like a Miller Table should. On a miller table you want everything but the gold to wash off. With the Silicone, it hangs on to the Black sands as well because they are a metal, iron, and metals stick to the Silicone. So you have to have something that only gold will stick to. After 7 years of testing many paints, rubber sheets, shelf liners etc. I have found that the Chalkboard paint is by far the best. As you can see in the video it can be used to catch the gold or to slow it way down so that it will get caught in the top trough of the mat.
@@utahavalanch Thank you very much for the reply and your insight. I guess i will go with the paint and try to build one at least half as nice as the ones you build. Take care
@@rodkenton1249
Nah, I think you will be able to build one every bit as nice. It isn't that complicated. This is made out of very cheap lumber and only has 5 parts to it. I used a Cedar fence board, a 1x3 furring strip and a 1x6 piece of pine.
The Chalkboard Paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard paint in the pint can. I had them mix the Teal color. A can of Helmsman's spar varnish and a bottle of Tightbond type III glue.
There is a cedar board base plate, water bar header board made from 1x3, a deck or Miller Table plate made from the 1x6, and 2 side rails which can be made out of the cedar board or the 1x3.
I am trying to get a video made on how to build one but in the meantime check out my video on "How to Build the Deep Well Miller Table". It's the same except the top deck is only 7" long instead of about 21".
If you want to try a quick and dirty 8" version, for some practice, you can take an 8" pine board, cut a piece 20" long for the base board and another piece 7" long for the Miller Table Deck. Cut the 45 degree angles on the ends. Cut a 1/4" x 1/4" notch under the mat end for the mat to fit under.
Cut 2 pieces of the 1x3 the same length as the base board width and glue them together. Check my Miller Table video on how to glue them and find where to drill the water bar hole. Drill the water bar hole with a 1-5/16" Forstner bit or hole saw. In the video I drill a 2 stage hole with the forstner bit going halfway through and then drill through the center of that with a 1-1/16" hole saw.
Screw the header board to the base plate.
Measure 2-1/2" from the water bar and then draw a line across the baseplate. That will be where the edge of your top deck will go. Then glue down the top deck.
Cut the side rails out of the 1x3 to the length of the sluice and I usually go about 1-1/2" longer just for looks.
Give everything at least 4 coats of spar varnish.
Mask off the ends of the top plate and paint the top like in this video.
I usually end up having to build things several times to get it right so this will give you some practice on what all is involved and get some of the tools. I'm working on the 3rd version of the video so I hope to have it out soon.
@@rodkenton1249
By the way, if I can help with anything, just ask.
@@utahavalanch Thank you again and especially for the specs. I am going to try to get the materials and start on one Monday. Tomorrow i am heading up north a ways to pick up a Gold Cube from a fella. Plan on replacing the mats in the Cube with the Dream Mat mini and micro mats.
What happens if the water bar is installed 1/4- 3/8 “ from the back of fluid bed, not flush? And add the sample over the back side of the bar, directly into the incoming water, or not, operators choice?
Pete Bennett
Hi Pete and thanks for watching. If you extended the spraybar away from the back wall and more toward the middle of the Deep Well, I would drill another line of holes spraying back toward the back wall as well as a set spraying straight down. With just the one set spraying down, there is a dead spot in that back area that doesn't get much water.
Making 2 sets of holes and dumping the dirt behind the spraybar would fluidize the dirt much better and make it easier for the gold to drop out.
Utah....
Impressive video. This would seem to work well on the 50 to 300 micron gold found on the Green River in Easter Utah. The problem being the limited tonage one could run in a day. Any thoughts on making a slice large enough to run several tons/hour?
Hi Larry and thanks for watching. Yippers, I have watched many people try to work the Green over the past 65 years and try to get that gold. They have the mindset and equipment for big gold and that doesn’t work for fine gold. When you get to 30 mesh and smaller the dynamics change a lot. It requires different equipment and you need to understand how fine gold reacts. At those sizes, gold is the lightest material you are working with and you have to build and run your equipment with that in mind. I do mostly urban prospecting now days and the gold I work with is in the 50 - 300 range and so I started building my own equipment when I couldn’t find anything on the market that could work with that size gold. I have a highbanker and this sluice as well as Miller tables that let me strip the gold out of any material. I love the challenge.
I have helped miners in Africa and Mexico build this type sluice to do what you are interested in and I have heard from prospectors in 7 countries who are having success with getting the flour gold with it. The sluice sizes in Africa and Mexico were in the 20” wide X 12’ - 15’ long and the gold they are working with is in the minus 100 range. They are making the deep trough Silicon drop riffle mats as well and built my Miller Table deign to clean their cons on.
Commercial sluices lose 90% of the fine gold and this design would capture it so although your production amount of dirt run would be much smaller, you would have a greater amount of gold. Before Covid hit, I was getting about 8 times more gold out of this small unit and running way less dirt than i was with my big Gold Hog sluice.
Fine gold takes a very long time to settle down through the slurry because it’s so light and the high water flow of commercial sluices doesn’t ever let it settle. So it gets blown out.
With this sluice, the gold hits the deck when the dirt is dumped on it and it sticks to the special paint so it doesn’t get caught in the main flow. Subsequent dumps of dirt will slowly push the gold down into the mat. The mat is made of Silicone that the gold sticks to like flypaper. So once that gold touches Silicone, it sticks. So this mini sluice has 16” of flypaper the gold has to go through to get out. Nothing has made it out yet.
Anyway, you could try building a larger version of this and give it a try to see how it would work for you. If not, one of these would make a good cleanup table for your cons.
Well done Utah! Don't know if you remember our long chat last year sometime, but this type of sluice is what I was talking about. Nice. I did build the wooden drop riffle sluice and the miller table and I was going to build one like this one that would take homemade mats and you beat me to it. :~) I've gotten better at working with the silicone.
Question: how long is the slick plate, 6...8"? I'm assuming the well is still 3" long and the width is 12"...correct? Also, how deep are the riffles? Seems like 3/4" would be to deep. In other words the height of the riffles should be the same as the slickplate...correct?
Thanks for posting this video and for putting with all my questions.
;
STEPHANIE DILL
Hi Stephanie. Somehow my answer didn't get posted to your question but to the general info. Hope you can read it there. If not let me know and I'll repost it to your question.
I really like all of your videos they are very informative. Keep up the good work. I have a question, for the slick plate do you paint it first then run it through the table saw for the angle cuts on the end? Or cut it first then tape it before painting? It looks sharp having the two colours
Will Barton
Hi Will and thanks for watching. I cut the angles first and round the edges and give it a good sanding. Then I glue it to the baseboard and give all of it about 6 coats of Helmsman Spar Varnish. Next I mask off the rounded ends and paint the top with Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint in the pint can. They have to mix the color for you and I like this color. It is called Teal. The reason I do this is the gold slides on the Varnish but it will stick to the paint. If you use the Deep Well as a fluid bed then the curved and varnished surface makes it easy for the lighter material to get washed out and the gold will sink to the bottom. If you use it as a Miller Table, the gold will stick to top deck and the rest of the material will wash off. If you use it as a sluice and increase the water flow, then the gold will try to stick but won't be able to and will slowly slide down and get caught in the mat. The gold dragging on the paint helps to keep it from getting washed on out of the sluice. Fine gold can get washed out very easily and this will help to prevent that.
Thank you for the pointers. I am going to make the same one as this video. I am also going to put the 1/4” notch on the end so the silicone mat fits underneath. I was wondering where you got the 600 gph pump from. Anything I can find is pretty expensive
Will Barton
I buy my pumps from EBay. A 600 GPH will run about $15.00 - $20.00. I think Walmart still sells a 500 GPH for around $20.00.
Really like that's sleuths I'm going to make myself one how do you make the form for the silicone mat
Hi Tom and thanks for watching. This is getting to be my all time favorite sluice. In my video “running the 10” mat”, you can see it and the mat in action. The video for making the mat mold you can find here.
ruclips.net/video/c38HhlgQejs/видео.html
I was wondering if you could rather than 3-D printing molds like Alan Robertson does, if they could be made of wood using a router and a table saw or combo slide chop saw or any combination if not all of the above. If the patterns repeat every 4"'s or so, then make them 4". Then when put in the mold frame, one could use different combinations. Make a jig, knock them out, might be fun. I don't know if that plastic wood would work as I hear it melts fairly easily. What do you think? Love your videos!
Hi Dani and thanks for watching. I don't have a printer so I have to make all my stuff out of wood. Yes, there is a way to make these very easily out of wood. You can see what the finished product looks like in this video and my last one on the 8 inch version and also in an upcoming video where I make a 1/4" mat. I use a base of 1/2" cedar (cedar fencing actually) and square wooden dowels you can buy from Home Depot or Lowes. These dowels come in all different diameters from 1/4" up to 1-1/2". The one in this video and the previous one has a frame that can be made with a 1/2" dowel and the troughs are made from a 3/8" dowel. You just cut the dowel pieces to length and glue them down to the base board. You can make the mold to any width and length you want.
To make a mat longer, rather than glue pieces together like Alan does, I put 2 of the riffles back into the end of the mold and then just add more silicone to make another mat that includes the end of the previous mat. It makes a totally invisible seam. The mat in my previous video was done that way. You cannot see the seam even when you look close up. The mat in this video, I had a problem cutting it to width and had almost a 1/4" gap down the side. I put it back in the mold and made it longer and then recut it and now it's perfect.
If a mat gets damaged, you can just squirt a little silicone on the hole or rip and put it back into the mold, let it set up and it's as good as new. These mats are very tough and very easily to repair if they get damaged. It takes a lot to damage one.
Yippers, I have videos coming on that as well. I'm getting old and slow and I have 6 projects I'm currently working on. So stay tuned I'm slowly getting there. :-D
@@utahavalanch now you got me thinking. Cut the riffles out of wood and attach them to a base to make the mold, all out of wood. Can even rip down round dowels for different effects as well as heights. Make short (4" or so) different molds and mix and match placing them in the mold frame and see which pattern works the best. It would make it very customizable. Score the tops with a utility blade for more grabbing power. This is a great hobby! I love this! Can't wait for the next video.
@@Dani-rx1sv
Yippers, Dani, now you are getting the idea. Only limit is your imagination. The thing is, that you can make a mold and try it out and if it doesn't work, Oh, well, just try another one till you get one you like. Yep, now you can see why I like this as well. Also the sluices are just as easy to build and they work better than anything on the market. And you can use them to try out all of your new creations. I am making a bare bones sluice for Newbies that is very simple to make and it is really great for testing new mat ideas on. I wasn't planning on it being much of a project but now I'm finding a lot of uses for it. Trying to get a video out on it if I can quit playing with it long enough to finish the video. :-D
You should sale those things . If you do please remember me :)
Jim Peek
Hi Jim and thanks for watching. Will do, in the meantime, why not try making one yourself. They are really not that hard.
@@utahavalanch I am one of these people who is all thumbs . One that I made would be very slow for me to do and very sloppy .
Here is my E-Mail JIMNBAMA@GMAIL.COM If you might be interested in making me one let me know .
We can work out the details later .
@@jimpeek7573
I will certainly keep you in mind if I do Jim.
@@utahavalanch Thank You :)
@@jimpeek7573
You're welcome. Have a great week.
Nabi Yunus (Yūnus):35 - Katakanlah: "Apakah di antara sekutu-sekutumu ada yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran?" Katakanlah "Allah-lah yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran". Maka apakah orang-orang yang menunjuki kepada kebenaran itu lebih berhak diikuti ataukah orang yang tidak dapat memberi petunjuk kecuali (bila) diberi petunjuk? Mengapa kamu (berbuat demikian)? Bagaimanakah kamu mengambil keputusan?
would it be possible to have the measurements if the table, the chaulk board area, the silicone mat and the well ?
Hi Skip, it would. This is about the maximum length to fit a Home Depot 10 gallon Hefty or I guess now it’s a Husky tote. Any longer and the weight of the water in the well makes it fall backwards off the tote and you have to tie it down with a bungi cord. However if you use one of my PVC adjustable stands or a fixed PVC frame stand you can make it any length and width you want. This one is a 10” wide sluice but I’m now making an 8” because I have a lot of mats for it. This is a fun sluice to run as you can see if there is gold in the dirt as soon as you put material on the deck. (See my “running 10” mat video”) All the other material will wash off immediately but the gold sticks if the water level is slower or it will just slide slowly down the deck if it is higher. When you do a cleanup, you can slow the water down and use the deck for a Miller Table to clean the cons.
The mat on this is the same one I made the videos on and it does a great job of catching gold.
Anyway here are the specs as far as the length. These work for any width sluice. I have folks making them 20” wide.
Base plate 20” long
Miller Deck 7-1/2” long
Mat 10” long
Side Rails 22” long.
Deep Well from inside back wall to edge of deck. 2-1/2”
This is if you want to use the well as a fluid bed sluice. If you are making a Miller Table, then you can make it 3” to give you a smoother water flow.
If you don’t want to use the fluid bed sluice part, then you don’t have to cut the 45 degree angle on the deck. Just round the sharp corner off. You can do the same on the mat end.
If you cut a slot on the mat end so the mat can slide under the edge of the deck, that will help to keep some of the water from going under the mat and letting gold escape under it.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions just ask.
Montana
With the crafty spray bar, what angle do the holes point. At the base plate or the seam between the base plate and header bar? I’m currently working on this awesome separator. I had already previously purchased some of Alan’s molds. All the gold I’m currently getting is very fine.
Hi James and thanks for watching. Well this sluice with his mats will work very well for you. It is a real fine gold catcher. It only needs about a 600 gallon pump to work with it. Fine gold is very light and flat so it doesn’t take much to blow it out.
I sand the ends that go into the “Tee” down so they turn easier. That way you can adjust them on the fly to give you the best flow. Usually I point them at the back for smooth water and straight down or slightly to the front if I’m using the Deep Well for a fluid bed. Also keep the space between the bottom of the spray bar and the base at about 3/16” and no more than 1/4”. Good luck on your build and if you have any questions just ask.
@@utahavalanch Thank you for the quick reply. I’m looking forward to getting this completed. I’ve got plenty of material to practice with. I’ve got a 1100 GPM pump with a speed flow controller. Thank you again for the information, I’ll let you know how i fair. Be well.
@@copter1doc
Sounds like you’re about set. I would like to hear how it works for you.
I mostly do urban prospecting now days and I found that If you screen that fine silty dirt through a 60 and 100 mesh screen, turn your water flow down to about 300 GPH and run each of those separate, you can recover gold down in the 200 mesh and smaller range. Especially if you use silicone mats. Best of luck.
I would like one
Kirk Aldous
I don’t blame you. This is my all time favorite sluice.i love it.
Can I purchase your be from you
Kirk Aldous
I’m sorry, but I am not able to sell over the Internet. I have made a video on how to make my Miller Table and you build it the same way except the top deck is smaller. Have a great day.
Hi Utah... How long is this one? How much of it is Miller and how much mat? Also what are the specs for the mat riffles please? Thanks for all you do and I hope your doing better. I have already built your Miller table and it works great altho I am trying to get the angle and flow just right. I have the HF 264 pump.
Hi Intown. I made my equipment to fit a 10 gallon tote so I can pack it around or use in the house in the winter.. You can make the sizes to fit your needs. For my tote,
The specs are:
Base board 21” long x 10” wide. I also have them in 6” and 8” wide.
Miller Deck 7” long
Side rails 2-1/2” high x 23” long.
Header board 2-1/2” high x width of base board.
Mat mold 2 different molds:
Store bought square dowels:
5/8”x5/8” for frame.
1/2”x1/2” for inner dowels.
Space between inner dowels 1/4” to 1/2”. Video has 1/2” space.
Hand made on table saw:
Frame 5/8” high x 5/8” wide.
Inner Dowels 1/2” high x 3/4” wide.
Frame 2 3/4”high x 5/8” wide.
Inner dowels 5/8” high x 3/4” wide.
Space between dowels 1/4” to 1/2”
I like the 3/4” wide troughs on my mat as they hold much more material and catch the gold easier. You can easily pan the cons or run them on your Miller Table.
If you want a mat similar to a Commercial Deep V mat but with more storage.
Frame 3 1/2” high x 1/2” wide
Inner dowels 1/4” high x 1/4” wide.
Space between dowels 1/4”
Miller Table: I made my hose from 3/4” bilge pump tubing. I bought a 3” gas valve and the 3/4” nylon hose barbs to connect the hose to it from Home Depot. Get the MIP thread on the barbs. This hose will fit on your harbor freight pump as well as a 300 to 800 GPH Bilge pump and allow you to fine tune you water flow very smoothly. I use an 800GPH pump with a digital motor speed controller from Ebay and that way I can use it for the Miller Table as well as the sluice. 800 GPH is the highest you want to go if you want to keep flower gold in the sluice.
I set the angle on the table at about 3 - 4 degrees to start and a water flow of about 100 GPH. Then I sprinkle black sand that is the same mesh as the dirt I’m running on the table. Adjust the water flow or slightly adjust the angle of the table til the black sand just starts to move down the table. Now add your pay dirt. Always screen your dirt through 30, 40, 60 and 100 mesh screens and run each screening by its self with the water flow adjusted for it. You can buy mini 6” screen sets on Ebay that work great for this. Always screen and work these mesh sizes very carefully as that is where most of the gold is. A flat Taklon brush from the art dept at Walmart works very good for working the material on the table.
I’m just taking it one day at a time thank you. The doctors messed me up pretty bad so I’m slow getting things done. Avoid docs. They don’t have your welfare in mind and go out of their way to make you worse.
I hope this helps some. If you have any more questions just ask. Best of luck with your prospecting and building.
@@utahavalanch Thanks so much for the quick response and the measurements. Earlier this year we had hoped to come your way but we had some medical troubles also. We will keep you in our prayers and hope for a speedy and great recovery for you..
@@intown759 thank you very much. sorry to hear you have medical problems as well. Sure hope you get doing better. I’ll be glad when the med beds get here.
I don’t know if you’re around any of the flooding or not but if you are, you might want to check out those areas if you are. Flood waters move a lot of material around and uncover a lot of gold. Look for streaks of black sand and take a lot of samples. This sluice works beautifully for that kind of material as it shows you immediately if you have gold or not.
Hello.. Do you sell these?
Or do you sell a kit to make it?
@@fpelusoiv
Hi Frank and thanks for watching. I’m sorry, I don’t. There was way to much demand for me to keep up with so I made a video on how to make this for those who would like one. They are quite easy to build so you might want to give it a try.
Hey I'm a fellow utahn I got a question I want to get into gold panning but as you know theres not much free mining areas here in utah where would be a pew places I can go to try panning for gold
tony cardwell
Hi Tony and thanks for watching. Well, the main hotspot is American Fork river. There is gold the full length of it but most of the folks go above Tibble Fork reservoir. There is also gold in the Weber And Provo Rivers many of the small canyons south of Salt Lake have gold in them. Also there is gold all around us in the gutters, edge of the roadways, road construction piles etc. Home Depot all purpose sand has gold in it and is good practice. If you haven't panned before I would suggest you buy an inexpensive bag of paydirt from a reputable seller to practice with so you will know what looks like and you can see how it acts in the pan. A good seller I buy from on occasion is Tom's gold paydirt. You can find him at
tomsgolddirt.com.
His $27.00 bag has a good amount of gold in it and will give you some good practice. When you get it all panned out, put it back in the dirt and practice some more. There are a lot of videos on RUclips to show you how to pan. Best of luck. It's a fun hobby.
Do you know if it will work with fine beach gold.
Kirk Aldous
Hi Kirk and thanks for watching. Yes, this will work very well with the Cape Disappointment, Nome Beach and the Michigan and Wisconsin beach sands. If you watch my video “Deep Well Silicone Mat Sluice, at about 12:55 you can see some Cape Disappointment Beach sands being processed.
Hi again... building this 3way sluice per your 3/4 inch recommendations. Was wondering how you did the water bar for one like this? Hope your feeling better.
Hi Doug. Thank you and thanks for watching. The bottom of the water bar should be only about 3/16” to 1/4” above the base board. I see some folks getting it too high and if you put the sluice on a 10 degree angle, instead of being under water the holes are above it and squirting down from above the surface of the water and create many bubbles that you don’t want. I drill a row of 3/16” holes in the water bar 1/2” apart and and then a row set back slightly with the holes in between those. sometimes I enlarge them a bit with a tapered bit for more water flow. Don’t glue anything as you may want to change out the spray bars and try out different hole combinations. If you want to use the Deep Well as a fluid bed, cut a 45 degree angle on the upper edge of the deck. The well should be 2-1/2” wide measured from the face of the header board to the top edge of the deck. If you don’t want to use the well as a fluid bed, you don’t have to cut the 45 degree angle. Make the space 3” wide to give smoother water flow. Round off the upper edge a little to smooth out the water. The MillerTable Deck is 7” long . This can be lengthened if you want a larger deck but I made it this long as my sluice can only be 21” total to fit a tote and I have to fit a mat in here as well. If you make a separate PVC stand, you can make everything much longer. I really like this sluice as you can tell right away if there is gold in your dirt as it will stick to the top of the deck. Great for sampling dirt to see if there is gold. The Miller Table is very handy for cleaning up cons and if some gold floats down the table, the mat will catch it. Great all around unit. Good luck with your build and if you have any more questions, just ask.
@@utahavalanch Thanks for the reply. I assume the water bar is 3/4" pvc. I'm usually signed in as Intown. Dont know why it put my name in here, lol.
@@dougbear3977 Hey Doug, No problem. Yes the water bar is the same for either the 1/2” or the 3/4”. On the Miller Tables I like the 1/2” tubing and on the sluices 3/4”. Although I have been running tests lately and It seems in actual use here isn’t a lot of difference. If you are working with fine gold, I recommend a 600 to 800GPH pump with an inline valve or a DC motor controller so you can fine tune the water flow. You can buy these on Ebay for about $10.00.
@@utahavalanch Hi again, If I understand you right to use as a fluid bed cut the 45 degree angle, should I also cut the 1/4 x 1/4 trough for catching the gold? Are you running yours on a battery? Looking forward to the high banker video.. take care and TFYS
@@dougbear3977 yippers. If you want to use the Fluid bed then you will want to cut the upper edge of the deck, the side facing the water bar at a 45 degree angle. This allows the dirt to flow up and out more easily. You also spray it with the spar varnish which allows the gold to slide back down into the deep well more easily. I like to cut the 1/4” groove across the bottom as it catches the gold in it and makes it easier to snuffer out. It also keeps the small gold out of the high turbulence so it will not wash out. Not necessary, but handy. The fluid bed is handy if you are going after the gold in the 100 and minus 100 meshes. You can reduce the water flow down to a very small amount and collect that almost invisible gold. The DC power controller makes adjusting the flow very easy.
I like this sluice as if any gold escapes the fluid bed or slides off the Miller Table, it’s caught in the mat and you don’t have to rerun all the tailings to get it. If you use the Silicone mat, you have 12 - 14” of gold flypaper it has to go through to get out and if you control your water flow carefully, that won’t happen.
Hey there Utahavalanch, what type paint are you using on the Miller sluice?
Mike Duran
Hi Mike. Thanks for stopping by. The paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint in a pint can. They have to mix it for you. The color I like best is called Teal. It is a combination of Blue and Green and the gold shows up well on it. The gold tends to stick to it and everything else just slides right off. Its main job is to slow the gold down so it can be caught within the mat and not blown out if the water flow is too high. If the water flow is adjusted right. The gold will stay in the top Riffle of the mat.
Well done on the teaching video in making the Miller Deepwell Gold Board.
Mike Duran
Thanks Mike. I have so many people who want to build these. Im working on another video on how to build his one. Not much to them actually but they sure work well.
What mold did you use for the silicone sluice mats?
John R.
Hi John and thanks for watching. If you saw the video I just put up on how to make a 10" Mold. It was identical to that. It's a homemade wood mold. You can make one using 1/2" square dowels for the frame and 3/8" square dowels for the troughs. You can buy the dowels at Home Depot and Lowe's.
What's the overall length of the table 🤔
I usually make mine to fit a particular tote.
The base board is 21” x 10”.
I use 2 1x3” pine boards for the header. One across the end of the base board and 1 across the top and glue them together and trim the top even with a saw. You can just use 1 across the back of the base board if you want. It’s easier to do.
The Miller Deck I usually make 6” long but i’d recommend 8” so as to make a bigger Miller Table.Then you can use it as a dual unit. Run it as a sluice to get cons and then slow the water down and process the cons on the Miller Deck.
For the side rails I usually cut a 1/2” cedar fence board down the middle but it would be easier to just use the same 1x3 that you used for the header. That way the side rails and header board are all the same height. You can make them any length you want so they are even with the end of the base board or extend past it a bit.
For the deep well, I measure from the face of the header board to the edge of the Miller deck and make that 2-1/2” to 3 inches. 3” will give you a little smoother water flow.
I put a board across the bottom of the sluice that sticks up about 1/4 - 1/2” so the mat doesn’t slide off. Extend it down about 3/4” below the base board.
I cut a slot across the end of the Miller Deck 1/4” high x 1/2” deep so your mat slips up under the end of the deck. You can adjust the height to fit your mat.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you need more.
What material is the miller table part made of?
Hi Robert and thanks for watching. The Miller Table part or the upper deck is made of 3/4 inch pine. I painted it with Rustoleum Chalkboard paint because the gold sticks to it and if you increase the water flow, it makes it so the gold moves slowly down the deck and into the top groove of the mat. That way it isn't getting blown out the end of the sluice and gets caught.
The base it sits on is 1/2" cedar. You can buy different woods in the 1/2" thickness in your big box stores but I just use plain old cedar fencing because it is cheap and much lighter. I just sand it smooth and it works great. I use it for the side rails as well. The water bar header I make out of 1x3 furring strips. It can be used for the side rails as well so that the header and side rails are all the same height.
what kind of paint are you using, for the gold to stick to
Rhino Cerous
Hi Rhino and thanks for watching. The paint is Rustoleum Chalkboard Pant in the pint can. Gold really likes to stick to this paint for some reason.
@@douglaspohl1827
Hi Douglas. The Rhino Cerous was the name of the person i was responding to. The name of the paint is:
Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint.
You can find it in most paint stores or big box stores.
Hi aDoug. You tube won’t show me your question so I hope you will see this. You are correct. You have to have it mixed by the paint store. It is just white tint base in the can. On the side of the can are about 9 different colors they can mix it in. You just pick the color and tell the paint store employee what it is and they will mix it for you. The color I use is called “Teal”. Hope this helps.
@@utahavalanch Thanks
Oh cool Flea poop
was there an video for the final fluid bed build?
c shackleford
Hi C and thanks for watching. This is the final video. The Deep Well area where the spray bar is located is the Fluid Bed. It's a small one but it works very well. When you dump the dirt down into the running water under the spray bar, it fluidizes it and causes the heavier material like the gold to drop out and move down to the bottom of the well where it stays. The lighter material is washed out leaving only the heaviest material. If you turn the water flow way down, you can dump very fine minus 100 mesh material down in there and it will separate it out and leave just the super fine gold in the bottom. Hope this helps.
@@utahavalanch Thanks for the reply. OK, I was thinking this sluice is an excellent idea! it can be used in multiple ways. I will attempt to build this project. You have excellent ideas and projects. I have a better idea of how these sluices should work, and why. Hope that you continue with videos, i love them ! Thanks!
@@13orangeleaf
This so far the best sluice design I have been able to come up with in my testing all the designs on the market over the past 12 years. Only one other design worked well and so I ended up trying to design one that met my needs for working with the very fine gold we have and this is it so far. This design is really quite simple and there are only about 5 pieces to it. I'm trying to get a basic how to build video out on it. You can check out my video on how to build the Deep Well Miller table for some help in the meantime. They are the same except for the length of the top deck.
The Silicone mat on it is a super gold catcher that really improves it's efficiency. Videos coming on that as well.
utahavalanch Thanks again for your reply, I was thinking about your design before I slept last night, thinking about how well it caught fine gold, then a light came on! This thing will catch any gold and can possibly be used in multiple applications. It is a fairly simple design, and I can understand how people not using a well designed sluice and controlling the water flow are probably losing a lot of fine gold.
@@13orangeleaf
They say 80% of the gold is in the 30 mesh and smaller if you are familiar with mesh sizes. That is true and that's all I want. :-D Any way I do a bit of testing for other prospectors of their tailings and I find out that almost all of them claim they don't lose anything but I find they are losing 80% of their fine gold. I see that 80% of the prospectors on RUclips are losing most of their fine gold. All the gold I'm going after is very small. So I really need a good reliable system to catch it all. And this sluice is doing it for me. If you saw my video on Urban prospecting with my grandson, then you can see a lot of what we do now. Gold is in the dirt all around us, in the gutters, construction dirt piles, gravel alongside highways, parking lots Home Depot sand. All you have to do is just take small samples to test and then come back for more if there is gold in it. You would be surprised at the places you will find gold. And that is the most fun aspect of this type of prospecting.
Do you sell the tables?
Hi William and thanks for watching. Sorry, I don't. I'm not set up to sell right now. I have a lot of people who want them and I'm trying to make some videos showing how to make them. It really is a very simple design and not that hard to build. The mat is really easy to build as well and can be used in any sluices.
Do you sale these
Kirk Aldous
Hi Kirk. I’m sorry, I don’t as I don’t have any way to sell over the Internet. These are quite easy to build and I have a video out on how to build my Deep Well Miller Table which is about the same except you make the top deck shorter to make this one. I’m currently working on another “How To” video on how to make these. All you need to make a basic one is a saw a drill and a couple of bits. Check back off and on for it.
I can send payment western union. I really like your product.