so glad to see a knifemaker get a proper vmc. So many guys buy a new tormach when they could get a used industrial quality vmc for less money and the industrial machines are so much more ridgid and capable, even the mini mills such as yours. You did a great job restoring it I have no doubt it will serve you well. One suggestion especially with the coated carbide tools is using an air blast mounted to the head to remove chips and cool, you will be amazed at how long the Altin coated tools will last if they are not recutting chips.
+conawayjb Hey mate! Yes I agree regarding buying a used machine... A lot of people are just really worried about getting a lemon though and it's understandable. For instance when I was looking for machines there was a Matsuura MVC510 for sale near me for a very reasonable price, however when I dug into it more there was little to no parts or service available for that model! The Fadal was a good choice from this perspective, pretty much every part of it is available new or remanufactured! I have an air-blast setup now, but this video was one of the first times I used the machine! I've been pretty happy with how the tools have been lasting, except in a few setups where the fixturing is sub-par and the tools are getting killed by chatter... I will be re-working my entire process soon (again) in order to address this problem!
I have this exact machine in my hobby shop. Be sure to clear your borings away from your end-mills to prolong the life of the carbide. Chip re-cut will cause dulling and chipping in the cutting edge. Great work on the restore. I have to do one on this machine soon. I also replaced my monitor with a flat panel.
Yeah I use an air blast to clear chips now, works very well! I have since done a full-on restoration on my machine, it wasn't too hard, let me know if you have any questions!
douro20 I try to make sure I spend money where I'm going to see a return in terms of time or hassle saved. I also have a rule now that I only buy tools and equipment that's made in countries with strong labor laws: USA, Canada, Germany, etc... No more chinese made stuff. I'm very happy with how that's working out so far. The Orange vise and the Haimer were both excellent decisions. The Haimer is super quick and has so many uses beyond setup, for instance I will be using it for in-process inspection to make sure I'm keeping up with wear compensation on my cutters when working with G10 as it's very abrasive. The Orange vise is convertible to a double station vise which has the potential to save me a lot of time in the future, so I'm pleased with how that worked out too. Also Eric Sol, the guy that makes the vises, is excellent to deal with and I feel good supporting a small manufacturer!
You should definitely get yourself set up with a fixture plate so you can run multiple parts during the same cycle! I'm a 3rd year machinist apprentice so seeing videos like this of people running their first parts really makes me smile. And you did an excellent job on the refurb of the machine too, keep up the awesome work!
Dana Mahar I definitely want to get some better fixturing sorted out soon. At the moment I'm working through each part to get a better overall idea of what fixturing is needed.
Maybe folding knives could start becoming a thing from you Gough? The CNC machine seems to be working fantastically, you're already a master with it! Keep up the awesome work!
Gough Custom When I first saw one of your videos you made a guides on making knives with basic hand tools and minimal power tools. I was, and still am, impressed by the sense of precision evoked by their appearance. Now you use a CNC mill with an automatic tool changer, doing skeletonization that I'm almost certain is impossible to emulate by hand, but I think I'll get a sharpie, box cutter, round file and go to my local hackerspace...
Ken Clark Hey Ken! I have done skeletonization similar in the past, but it's definitely quite time consuming! For me the move to CNC makes sense because I want to make many knives of the same design and the consistency of CNC will be a huge asset. You can make beautiful knives with only simple tools and some patience though! I plan to make more tutorials in the future that focus on simple tools.
Very nicely done! Great job with the CAM and selecting your feeds and speeds for that tool steel- the heat left with the chip! Your vise is still pristine so you truly practice how you play :-). Do yourself one favor though and get some air blast or fogbuster going ASAP. Re-cutting those beautiful chips will dull your sweet (and no doubt costly) end mills a lot faster and can cause surface finish quality to fall out sending you back to the "hand rub" station. I use air blast, fogbuster and flood coolant at different times depending on the material and machining operation. You are going to be unstoppable soon man I can see it! You'll wake up ,see a CAD grid and hear servos everywhere :-)...it's like being in the matrix, but in a good creative way.
Doug P Thanks Doug! Air-blast and MQL will hopefully be coming soon, need to build an enclosure first! I also need to install a serious vacuum system for when I'm working with G10! Hopefully my vise will stay clean for a while yet!
Man, just like butter ;) I bet it makes it even 'that' much sweeter to watch this bas boy cut since you brought it back it it's original beauty, possibly even more (under the hood I mean).. I can't wait ta see what you come up with for this machine, I have a feeling you'll be "playing" around with even more than you Resolute model ;) Thanks for sharing bro! I'm happy to see this all come to fruition for ya :)
don't know if you want to serialize your blades but the Fadals fixed engraving subroutine will serialize 001, 002 ,003 etc. every time you run the program only drawback is if you stop halfway it may already indexed the number so you might skip some numbers... unless you put the block skip character on the line of code.
+ROD90265 Yeah, I was amazed to discover the Fadal had that feature, I thought it was only available on newer machines! I just finished the first batch of knives the other day, and they were all serialized using that fixed cycle! Thanks for taking the time to let me know!
The great thing about the Fadal control is simplicity and they do not lock the controls capability to do any option they can do, unlike the Fanuc control. With Fadal its all there. It will do 5 axis is you had the wiring and the axis cards. Just go to SETP and tell the machine what options you have. The machine you have is a VMC 10 and you probably have rigid tapping (common on those builds unless someone pulled the card) which is one of the only things that require a special card. Pretty amazing for a control that was designed in 1978. One of the key things they did was Design for the Future. If you ever need help give me a call.
+ROD90265 No rigid taping on my machine unfortunately, no spindle encoder and no control card for it! However I'm using thread milling with great success so I don't really miss it!
This is awesome thanks. Recently purchased a 3016 for what I am doing. Did you have to use any special codes to use the Haimer probe? How do you set all the Z height for the tools using it? I am still touching off each one.
+Ryan Kondratieff I have a set of tool setting macros published on my GitHub page, that's how I setup my mill. If you search "AaronGough Fadal toolset ting" you should find it!
Awesome video, Aaron. Did you ever try profiling a blade on your mill that you used on the previous videos? I realize this is much more powerful and precise, but was it possible before to even get a rough shape?
Josh Rider Hey Josh! It wasn't really possible to do this kind of work on the old mill because it was only manual control. You might have been able to approximate it the shape but it wouldn't have been very accurate and probably would have taken hours!
Hi, I am wondering, how do you get a knife shape into the program so you could reproduce something that you made? Do you mount it down and make the machine go around and plot the part or do you have to program the shape into the machine? Is there a way to scan shapes into the fusion 360? I go the paper cutout rout when designing stuff. I can hold it up and look and it and kind of hold it in my hand.
Donn Buchfinck All the design has to be done in fusion. In this case I drew the basic shape of what I wanted on paper, then scanned it and used that as a reference image in Fusion to complete the design.
Gough where is the balance point on your knives? Beautiful machine btw. How long did it take to learn how to operate it? Did you take special classes on CNC? Thanks and thumbs up.
+aHigher Power Hey mate! The balance point is right at the finger groove, where your index finger would lie when holding the knife. It took me quite a while to learn to operate the CNC, spread out over several years and a few different machines.
Thanks for the tip Niels! This is a very old video from when I was just learning, if you check out my newer videos you will see I've made a lot of progress!
GR Screw Machine Products Thanks mate! I'm using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM at the moment. Pretty happy with it so far! What you're seeing here is not at all optimized, I've since gone on to make the production version of this toolpath and it's quite a bit faster!
Hey gough ! Nice work. I have some questions about knife making . First, how much do all these machines cost (belts etc)? Second of all, how many hours do you work per day, how rarely do you find buyers and how many $ do you make per month? Lastly how long does it take to get to a professional level and is buying iron expensive to a degree that ill spend all my profits to piling up the iron I wasted? Thanks and have a good day.
+BigIronTV Yes! I'm using AiTIN coated solid corbide endmills from Maritool. My tool life isn't what it should be because my spindle has quite a bit of runout, but other than that I've been very happy with them!
+BigIronTV Over the last few months it's hovered at around 12 knives per month, which is actually probably slower than if I was just making them by hand... However that slow rate has mainly been due to just a couple of teething issues with the process. Once I get them sorted out I'm hoping to get to a minimum of 24 knives per month, hopefully double that in the future.
Are you satisfied with the machine and do you have any cnc-experienc from other machines? I was thinkin at buying a Fadal and just needed some other guy's point of view of it. Best regards Johan W ( i hope you understand my bad speeling :-) )
I am reasonably satisfied with the machine. For prototyping it's an excellent machine. I have been running production on it 6+ hours per day for the past few months and it is exposing a few gremlins, however I still think it was an excellent purchase.
+Erik Anacleto Thanks Erik! So far I've put about 60 blades through this process with the same exact tools, except for the 3/16" endmill which I've had to replace once. It seems to be fairly economical so far which is great!
Beautiful! Congrats Aaron, so awesome to see the machine running after all your work!! I know that pushing the big green button for the first time is both exciting and pucker inducing at the same time. Looks like you did your research on speeds & feeds, chip color looks perfect and cuts sound GOOD! How much did you slow the RPM on the second pocket?
x19freak Thanks mate! Pressing that button really was terrifying. Glad I got it out of the way though, couldn't wait to do it a second time! Thanks for the feedback on the feeds and speeds! Definitely need some experienced eyes on that! On the second pocket I slowed the spindle by about 10% because I thought it sounded like the endmill wanted more chipload. The chips seemed to immediately become a richer blue so I think that seems about right. I'm guessing I could push both feed and speed up a bit but cycle time is not hugely important. The one big optimization I did in that toolpath was to predrill the entry holes for the pockets, that cut about 2 minutes off compared to doing a helical ramp with the endmill! I actually need to get setup so I can leave the machine for a bit while it's working rather than being tied to it... My vise is convertible to double station so I may end up doing that. Any and all suggestions welcomed!
Gough Custom I wouldn't consider myself all that experienced, I just know what bad cuts look and sound like, at the cost of a lot of broken end mills. :) Check out FS Wizard for a free online F&S calculator or the full blown HSM Advisor tool. Does your machine have the 7500 RPM or 10K spindle? I like your strategy of drilling entry points for your pocketing ops, much more time efficient then ramping in. You've got the mindset for this and I'm looking forward to seeing what you develop for your knives. Going to be very good stuff!
Blue chips mean you are making money! Although you might want to dial the speed/feed back a bit with no coolant setup. I currently dont mill with coolant but I am also manual milling everything. I keep meaning to make a mist setup but really should just buy a koolmist and call it a day
vdub5818 I've got a blower setup to help clear chips, works very well! Halfway through I pushed the chipload a little and it seemed to like that much better! The tools in this case are coated specifically to run dry, seems to work very well!
+Gough Custom Awesome machine ! I`m just getting into CNC and using Fusion 360 also. How long has it taken you to learn it ? Did you have have help ? I`m hoping to find a hands on class in my area, NYC Keep up the great work. After watching you spend countless hours restoring the VMC I now see why it took 8 months to get my knife !! Just kidding LOL
+RippSnortin' It's solid carbide tooling with an 'aluminum titanium nitride' (AiTIN) coating... I get my tooling from Maritool (maritool.com).... The tooling does not need coolant, and in fact runs better without it. However you will still need an air blast or similar to clear chips out of the way! The setup you see in this video is not ideal.
no still need coolant. it will extend tool life. and you don't want blue chips that means your running to fast and burning up tooling. the ideal chip is silver/gold
Brandon James sorry Brandon, but that's very much incorrect when taking about carbide tooling, especially modern carbide that is AiTIN coated as it's specifically designed to run dry...
Titanium Aluminum Nitride (TiAlN or AlTiN) A formed layer of aluminum oxide gives this tool better life in high heat applications. This coating is primarily selected for carbide tooling where little to no coolant is being used. AlTiN offers a higher surface hardness than that of TiAlN, along with different percentages of aluminum and titanium. It is another viable option in the world of HSM. so you can run with coolant. I've been a tool Maker 10+ years I run coated all the time. you can run coolant. you don't have to but tools will last longer. the only time I don't use coolant is machining hardened metal because it will glaze the tool. but the end mill is done after that.
Wait is that A2 tool steel your cutting, if that is holy shit thats smooth. Also yay your not one of those people that buys a really nice cnc machien and sticks a crap $150 vice they got off of ebay.
Good job, I would like to ask a question, how much is the speed of the machine, feeding machine, material steel? Choose what kind of milling cutter? These all look great, always wanted to have their own CNC! thanks!
Hey! The cutter is a 3/16" diameter 4 flute TiAIN coated solid carbide endmill from Maritool. The material being cut is A2 tool steel. Not sure exactly what the speeds/feeds were.
so glad to see a knifemaker get a proper vmc. So many guys buy a new tormach when they could get a used industrial quality vmc for less money and the industrial machines are so much more ridgid and capable, even the mini mills such as yours. You did a great job restoring it I have no doubt it will serve you well. One suggestion especially with the coated carbide tools is using an air blast mounted to the head to remove chips and cool, you will be amazed at how long the Altin coated tools will last if they are not recutting chips.
+conawayjb Hey mate! Yes I agree regarding buying a used machine... A lot of people are just really worried about getting a lemon though and it's understandable. For instance when I was looking for machines there was a Matsuura MVC510 for sale near me for a very reasonable price, however when I dug into it more there was little to no parts or service available for that model! The Fadal was a good choice from this perspective, pretty much every part of it is available new or remanufactured!
I have an air-blast setup now, but this video was one of the first times I used the machine! I've been pretty happy with how the tools have been lasting, except in a few setups where the fixturing is sub-par and the tools are getting killed by chatter... I will be re-working my entire process soon (again) in order to address this problem!
I have this exact machine in my hobby shop. Be sure to clear your borings away from your end-mills to prolong the life of the carbide. Chip re-cut will cause dulling and chipping in the cutting edge. Great work on the restore. I have to do one on this machine soon. I also replaced my monitor with a flat panel.
Yeah I use an air blast to clear chips now, works very well! I have since done a full-on restoration on my machine, it wasn't too hard, let me know if you have any questions!
Here is what I do with my VMC10
instagram.com/md_machine/
Nice!
You really spared no expense...Haimer 3D-Sensor for doing setups and an Orange vise...
douro20 I try to make sure I spend money where I'm going to see a return in terms of time or hassle saved. I also have a rule now that I only buy tools and equipment that's made in countries with strong labor laws: USA, Canada, Germany, etc... No more chinese made stuff. I'm very happy with how that's working out so far. The Orange vise and the Haimer were both excellent decisions. The Haimer is super quick and has so many uses beyond setup, for instance I will be using it for in-process inspection to make sure I'm keeping up with wear compensation on my cutters when working with G10 as it's very abrasive.
The Orange vise is convertible to a double station vise which has the potential to save me a lot of time in the future, so I'm pleased with how that worked out too. Also Eric Sol, the guy that makes the vises, is excellent to deal with and I feel good supporting a small manufacturer!
You should definitely get yourself set up with a fixture plate so you can run multiple parts during the same cycle!
I'm a 3rd year machinist apprentice so seeing videos like this of people running their first parts really makes me smile. And you did an excellent job on the refurb of the machine too, keep up the awesome work!
Dana Mahar I definitely want to get some better fixturing sorted out soon. At the moment I'm working through each part to get a better overall idea of what fixturing is needed.
I like the tools changing feature. Bet that is a time saver.
+Belnap Custom Knives (Courage and Foresight with God's Aide) Definitely!
Maybe folding knives could start becoming a thing from you Gough? The CNC machine seems to be working fantastically, you're already a master with it! Keep up the awesome work!
Mr. SirKing I would like to get into folding knives at some point, I need to catch up on the Resolutes first though!
Gough Custom When I first saw one of your videos you made a guides on making knives with basic hand tools and minimal power tools. I was, and still am, impressed by the sense of precision evoked by their appearance. Now you use a CNC mill with an automatic tool changer, doing skeletonization that I'm almost certain is impossible to emulate by hand, but I think I'll get a sharpie, box cutter, round file and go to my local hackerspace...
Ken Clark Hey Ken! I have done skeletonization similar in the past, but it's definitely quite time consuming! For me the move to CNC makes sense because I want to make many knives of the same design and the consistency of CNC will be a huge asset. You can make beautiful knives with only simple tools and some patience though! I plan to make more tutorials in the future that focus on simple tools.
Very nicely done! Great job with the CAM and selecting your feeds and speeds for that tool steel- the heat left with the chip! Your vise is still pristine so you truly practice how you play :-).
Do yourself one favor though and get some air blast or fogbuster going ASAP. Re-cutting those beautiful chips will dull your sweet (and no doubt costly) end mills a lot faster and can cause surface finish quality to fall out sending you back to the "hand rub" station. I use air blast, fogbuster and flood coolant at different times depending on the material and machining operation. You are going to be unstoppable soon man I can see it! You'll wake up ,see a CAD grid and hear servos everywhere :-)...it's like being in the matrix, but in a good creative way.
Doug P Thanks Doug! Air-blast and MQL will hopefully be coming soon, need to build an enclosure first! I also need to install a serious vacuum system for when I'm working with G10!
Hopefully my vise will stay clean for a while yet!
Man, just like butter ;) I bet it makes it even 'that' much sweeter to watch this bas boy cut since you brought it back it it's original beauty, possibly even more (under the hood I mean).. I can't wait ta see what you come up with for this machine, I have a feeling you'll be "playing" around with even more than you Resolute model ;) Thanks for sharing bro! I'm happy to see this all come to fruition for ya :)
***** Thanks mate! It's a very satisfying feeling to see it doing work like this!
cuts that A2 like butter, very cool
SharpStuffau dwayne Thanks mate!
don't know if you want to serialize your blades but the Fadals fixed engraving subroutine will serialize 001, 002 ,003 etc. every time you run the program only drawback is if you stop halfway it may already indexed the number so you might skip some numbers... unless you put the block skip character on the line of code.
+ROD90265 Yeah, I was amazed to discover the Fadal had that feature, I thought it was only available on newer machines! I just finished the first batch of knives the other day, and they were all serialized using that fixed cycle! Thanks for taking the time to let me know!
The great thing about the Fadal control is simplicity and they do not lock the controls capability to do any option they can do, unlike the Fanuc control. With Fadal its all there. It will do 5 axis is you had the wiring and the axis cards. Just go to SETP and tell the machine what options you have. The machine you have is a VMC 10 and you probably have rigid tapping (common on those builds unless someone pulled the card) which is one of the only things that require a special card. Pretty amazing for a control that was designed in 1978. One of the key things they did was Design for the Future. If you ever need help give me a call.
+ROD90265 No rigid taping on my machine unfortunately, no spindle encoder and no control card for it! However I'm using thread milling with great success so I don't really miss it!
I don't remember the Fadal I worked with having a no spindle wait function...
douro20 Not sure what you're referring to in terms of the spindle wait function?
This is awesome thanks. Recently purchased a 3016 for what I am doing. Did you have to use any special codes to use the Haimer probe? How do you set all the Z height for the tools using it? I am still touching off each one.
+Ryan Kondratieff I have a set of tool setting macros published on my GitHub page, that's how I setup my mill. If you search "AaronGough Fadal toolset ting" you should find it!
Great thank you very much I'll try to find it.
Awesome video, Aaron. Did you ever try profiling a blade on your mill that you used on the previous videos? I realize this is much more powerful and precise, but was it possible before to even get a rough shape?
Josh Rider Hey Josh! It wasn't really possible to do this kind of work on the old mill because it was only manual control. You might have been able to approximate it the shape but it wouldn't have been very accurate and probably would have taken hours!
nice work 😉
Thanks mate!
Hi, I am wondering, how do you get a knife shape into the program so you could reproduce something that you made?
Do you mount it down and make the machine go around and plot the part or do you have to program the shape into the machine?
Is there a way to scan shapes into the fusion 360? I go the paper cutout rout when designing stuff. I can hold it up and look and it and kind of hold it in my hand.
Donn Buchfinck All the design has to be done in fusion. In this case I drew the basic shape of what I wanted on paper, then scanned it and used that as a reference image in Fusion to complete the design.
Gough where is the balance point on your knives? Beautiful machine btw. How long did it take to learn how to operate it? Did you take special classes on CNC? Thanks and thumbs up.
+aHigher Power Hey mate! The balance point is right at the finger groove, where your index finger would lie when holding the knife. It took me quite a while to learn to operate the CNC, spread out over several years and a few different machines.
go as deep as the flutes go when you are though the material, saves your tools.
Thanks for the tip Niels! This is a very old video from when I was just learning, if you check out my newer videos you will see I've made a lot of progress!
Cool work! whats your CAM software?
GR Screw Machine Products Thanks mate! I'm using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM at the moment. Pretty happy with it so far!
What you're seeing here is not at all optimized, I've since gone on to make the production version of this toolpath and it's quite a bit faster!
Hey gough ! Nice work. I have some questions about knife making . First, how much do all these machines cost (belts etc)? Second of all, how many hours do you work per day, how rarely do you find buyers and how many $ do you make per month? Lastly how long does it take to get to a professional level and is buying iron expensive to a degree that ill spend all my profits to piling up the iron I wasted? Thanks and have a good day.
Excelente video amigo una pregunta que marca es tu fresadora cnc ...es un modelo muy bonito...saludos
Gracias mi amigo!
Are you running coated end mills that allow you to cut without coolant?
+BigIronTV Yes! I'm using AiTIN coated solid corbide endmills from Maritool. My tool life isn't what it should be because my spindle has quite a bit of runout, but other than that I've been very happy with them!
Just wondering how has you much has your production rate increased now vs prior to using the cnc?
+BigIronTV Over the last few months it's hovered at around 12 knives per month, which is actually probably slower than if I was just making them by hand... However that slow rate has mainly been due to just a couple of teething issues with the process. Once I get them sorted out I'm hoping to get to a minimum of 24 knives per month, hopefully double that in the future.
i love cnc
+Dušan Pešić Me too man!
Are you satisfied with the machine and do you have any cnc-experienc from other machines? I was thinkin at buying a Fadal and just needed some other guy's point of view of it. Best regards Johan W ( i hope you understand my bad speeling :-) )
I am reasonably satisfied with the machine. For prototyping it's an excellent machine. I have been running production on it 6+ hours per day for the past few months and it is exposing a few gremlins, however I still think it was an excellent purchase.
Awesome vid brother! how often do you replace the bits?
+Erik Anacleto Thanks Erik! So far I've put about 60 blades through this process with the same exact tools, except for the 3/16" endmill which I've had to replace once. It seems to be fairly economical so far which is great!
Beautiful! Congrats Aaron, so awesome to see the machine running after all your work!! I know that pushing the big green button for the first time is both exciting and pucker inducing at the same time.
Looks like you did your research on speeds & feeds, chip color looks perfect and cuts sound GOOD!
How much did you slow the RPM on the second pocket?
x19freak Thanks mate! Pressing that button really was terrifying. Glad I got it out of the way though, couldn't wait to do it a second time!
Thanks for the feedback on the feeds and speeds! Definitely need some experienced eyes on that!
On the second pocket I slowed the spindle by about 10% because I thought it sounded like the endmill wanted more chipload. The chips seemed to immediately become a richer blue so I think that seems about right.
I'm guessing I could push both feed and speed up a bit but cycle time is not hugely important. The one big optimization I did in that toolpath was to predrill the entry holes for the pockets, that cut about 2 minutes off compared to doing a helical ramp with the endmill!
I actually need to get setup so I can leave the machine for a bit while it's working rather than being tied to it... My vise is convertible to double station so I may end up doing that.
Any and all suggestions welcomed!
Gough Custom I wouldn't consider myself all that experienced, I just know what bad cuts look and sound like, at the cost of a lot of broken end mills. :) Check out FS Wizard for a free online F&S calculator or the full blown HSM Advisor tool. Does your machine have the 7500 RPM or 10K spindle?
I like your strategy of drilling entry points for your pocketing ops, much more time efficient then ramping in. You've got the mindset for this and I'm looking forward to seeing what you develop for your knives. Going to be very good stuff!
my machine is the 7500rpm spindle, seems like it won't be limiting when cutting steel
Blue chips mean you are making money! Although you might want to dial the speed/feed back a bit with no coolant setup. I currently dont mill with coolant but I am also manual milling everything. I keep meaning to make a mist setup but really should just buy a koolmist and call it a day
vdub5818 I've got a blower setup to help clear chips, works very well! Halfway through I pushed the chipload a little and it seemed to like that much better! The tools in this case are coated specifically to run dry, seems to work very well!
Are you using CAM software or did you did you have to program with G code?
Ben Winchester I'm using CAD/CAM software called Fusion 360. Seems to be working very well for my needs!
Gough Custom Awesome! You're doing great! I take it this piece will mount to the fixture I just watched you make to cut out the profile?
Ben Winchester That's correct!
+Gough Custom Awesome machine ! I`m just getting into CNC and using Fusion 360 also. How long has it taken you to learn it ? Did you have have help ? I`m hoping to find a hands on class in my area, NYC Keep up the great work. After watching you spend countless hours restoring the VMC I now see why it took 8 months to get my knife !! Just kidding LOL
+Gough Custom How do you get the G-code to the controller? Seems pretty old controller without USB?
720p60 quality is awesome!
Zheka K. Thanks! I actually shot it in 1080p60 but I scaled it down to get it to upload faster, I need to upgrade my internet connection...
No coolant
+Chris Murray Nope! The tooling that I'm using it does not require it.
+RippSnortin' It's solid carbide tooling with an 'aluminum titanium nitride' (AiTIN) coating... I get my tooling from Maritool (maritool.com).... The tooling does not need coolant, and in fact runs better without it. However you will still need an air blast or similar to clear chips out of the way! The setup you see in this video is not ideal.
no still need coolant. it will extend tool life. and you don't want blue chips that means your running to fast and burning up tooling. the ideal chip is silver/gold
Brandon James sorry Brandon, but that's very much incorrect when taking about carbide tooling, especially modern carbide that is AiTIN coated as it's specifically designed to run dry...
Titanium Aluminum Nitride (TiAlN or AlTiN)
A formed layer of aluminum oxide gives this tool better life in high heat applications. This coating is primarily selected for carbide tooling where little to no coolant is being used. AlTiN offers a higher surface hardness than that of TiAlN, along with different percentages of aluminum and titanium. It is another viable option in the world of HSM.
so you can run with coolant. I've been a tool Maker 10+ years I run coated all the time. you can run coolant. you don't have to but tools will last longer. the only time I don't use coolant is machining hardened metal because it will glaze the tool. but the end mill is done after that.
Wait is that A2 tool steel your cutting, if that is holy shit thats smooth. Also yay your not one of those people that buys a really nice cnc machien and sticks a crap $150 vice they got off of ebay.
Yes sir, A2 tool steel! Yeah the vise is beautiful eh!
They are expensive but damn are they good.
Tankyou yo quisiera tener una maquina de estas características.
+Roberto Cariaga It's definitely a very useful machine!
Good job, I would like to ask a question, how much is the speed of the machine, feeding machine, material steel? Choose what kind of milling cutter? These all look great, always wanted to have their own CNC! thanks!
Hey! The cutter is a 3/16" diameter 4 flute TiAIN coated solid carbide endmill from Maritool. The material being cut is A2 tool steel. Not sure exactly what the speeds/feeds were.