The Ultimate SG Guitar Kit Build (FULL UPGRADES) Part 2 - Gluing and Filling
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- We are finally getting to work on this ultimate SG style guitar kit build, and it is going to be a beauty This one is getting a full set of upgrades, and in this video we are doing our final check for fit, gluing up the neck, and filling in the bridge post holes so that we can fit this thing with a Gibson bridge for the client's preferred spec.
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That is a nice looking guitar. Can't wait for the painting to start.
Thanks Wallace
One guitar builder to another... I saw a great trick this past week to clean up glue without leaving any behind that will screw up your finish 4 weeks from now... Instead of wiping it off or using a damp rag (often the reason for finish issues)... Sprinkle a bunch of saw dust on it so it turns into more of a putty, then scrape it off with a putty knife. It keeps the glue from soaking in or getting smeared. Just thought I'd pass that little nugget along.
Thank you, that’s a really cool tip!
Beautiful! We all learn a lot from you, Brad! You are a real MVP!
Thank you. I appreciate it
Measuring the Canadian way. Meter stick to measure in inches. Love it. Ask any Canadian how fast we’re driving and it’s in kmh but we always count our height and weight in feet and lbs.
I gather its because you learn to measure your height from your parents (who grew up with imperial) and you learn road speeds from the government. Will be interesting to see how long it takes for imperial to be phased out of the culture completely.
Also funny how most Canadians use cup/spoon measurements for volume but grams for mass when cooking/baking.
Benji Kameya good point
JoeyJoeJoe Jr Shabadoo It would be interesting. Also, living beside the USA has made it so we have to know both units of measurement. At least I do. I go to US customers(and will again eventually). I am always converting back and forth between metric and imperial or US Standard. When I set up guitars I use US standard of measurement. The US uses metric when they deal with firearms or at least I think they do.
Benji Kameya Americans use metric when dealing with firearm sizes or the rounds do they not ? Something else I think I noticed.
I have finished dying my solo prs quilted maple top. I am so happy with the results other than a glue line down the middle. I was able to get it to take dye after I put sanding sealer on it.
Thats going to be one one great guitar by the time you have done with it Brad, Cheers
Thanks man.
Great kit nice job filling the holes in,One little tip i do is glue the dowels grain going the same way as the body they take stains and paint better and hides the plug better, looking forward to more video's on this build as alway's you do good work.
Thanks Scott. That’s a good one to keep in mind.
Great looking body, gonna be killer when you get that black look on it. Can't wait to see and hear it.
Thanks Ben
Did this build. Locking tuners, DiMarzio pickups, upgraded electronics. Did the nut and frets. Plays and sounds like a champ. The PRS kit I’m doing is white tongue oil, and white then cherry stain on the maple top. It looks like a tasty creamsicle. ✌️😎🤣
Sounds awesome
Thank you so much Brad, I am building a blue to red fade gibson sg and all of you tips and tutorials ha e helped so much!
Glad to hear it!
Gonna be awesome when finished mate I did tell you the bridge wouldn't fit hahaha. Cant wait to see this one completed mate! Take care dude...
Thanks Stu
Great video! I havent seen anyone glue a guitarneck before. I am just finished putting woodfilling on a guitartop that was uneven. After I tried many other things such as pure glue for bathrooms and automotive paint and a painting of Betty Boop. My neighbour taught me how to check a surface. Have the light on in one room. Go into a dark room and look at the surface back through the light in the doorway. This is so revealing that inspectors are not allowed to use this trick when inspecting paintjobs. But there is no reason why you can't check your own jobs this way. I am using wood that is reclaimed. Big chunks of wood that is glued together. Bigger than rough sawdust. Usually builders have it to cover up scaffolding at groundlevel. Temporary walls.
HAHA I was going to suggest a wicked sharp chisel to flusters the dowels but I suppose its a little too late for that. LOL Should be a fun build to watch.
I hope so haha.
Love what you do to the guitars, regardless of whether I would do that to one of my own guitars!! That's not a knife mate, you need a switchblade.
I’m pretty sure switchblades are illegal here. Or at least they are in the size I would want.
Great top on that one man, excited to see the progress🤘
You and me both!
Ooh, I’m building an sg kit soon.
Excellent timing
Watch with gluing in dowels to fill the bridge holes to drill them out to the proper sizes if you have end grain facing up towards the top of the body then overtime that end grain can expand and start to splinter the wood around it
Hey Brad - if it's not too late have you thought about going old school with that Gibson bridge and NOT using the bushings/inserts? The old/original style the posts just screwed right into the wood not into a bushing. Gibson has been advertising their new guitars to have the traditional ABR1 style but they all have the bushings and that is not correct! I think you would have to find a pair of vintage bridge posts though, I think all the new ones have the inserts. Check with Austin over on the Trogly's guitar show YT channel, he might have a set of the vintage style! I finished the white SG and had planned on using a set of gold bridge and tailpiece I had, but then I realized they were for an Epiphone so the insers wouldn't work lol. I ended up going with a white and chrome look rather than the white and gold I wanted. Since i am going to refinish this SG, the wipe on poly is REALLY turning yellow now and I hate it lol. I will be looking to get a gold set, it just looks nicer with the white if the hardware is gold lol, plus the neck is unfinished and since it's a maple neck it has a gold tone to it already.
Sorry to hear the hue on that poly is giving you trouble. I’m not sure I would trust a set of bridge pegs that screw straight into the wood. It would make me nervous trying to adjust that. So no, I hadn’t considered it haha.
@@BradAngove Yeah man that's the way they used to be and Gibson NOT using that style on the new models upset a lot of people! I agree with you, I much prefer the inserts rather than a long lag type screw. But I will say this, the ABR style, the non-insert style, is easier to adjust even when the strings are tight since the wheel was a bit larger. Some say the ABR style, used from about 1957 to 1974, sounds better, numerous people said they never gave that much of a thought but once they changed the style it made a huge difference. I only suggested the ABR-1 style in the case of your customer wanting to make his guitar look more like an original Gibson. One thing I do think the ABR-1 has over the Nashville style is ease of installing. If you happened to drill the hole wrong and had to fill and then redrill you are talking about a much smaller hole to deal with plus no tapping the inserts in or having to take a chance of damaging the top when pulling out the inserts, but at the end of the day I would go with the Nashville style and have the what seems to be much safer inserts lol. Yeah that Wipe on poly as you know has a slight yellowing already but it just seems the longer it's on there the more yellow the guitar becomes. Since it's a 1987 many people have told me it actually looks more like what an 87 should look like once the Nitro began aging, lol but I for HATE that yellowing!! Have you ever seen how a silver burst looks after it yellows? Imagine getting a slick looking silver Les paul with the black burst around the edges, 15 years later it is now a green looking guitar lol!!
Dude, I was kinda hoping for the home video haircut. I've cut my own since 1982, give or take.
Shouldn’t you be the one doing the home video haircut then Brian?
Hi Brad, I tend to use Titebond original for necks on my builds because titebond III is waterproof and look like impossible to remove for repair.
It’s definitely tough to get off of there after.
That would be a cool looking top either dark to light trans, cherry red, or dark to light trans, dark Safire..with mahogany back and neck..
Hi Brad, Your channel is awesome you have actualy inspired me to build a guitar probably going to do an sg build based off of solo and yes I am not very good at playing the guitar either. So here is what I am thinking I have a 94 Camaro that a relative of mine who has done most of the work finishing it off for me due to health issues all I will say is cancer sucks. Now my Dad gave me a 40th aniversary fender strat that is blonde in color and the year is 94. So I am thinking on building an SG based off the Camaro color which is black or onyx black I am not as artistic as you the home depot build was very cool but that is my plan might even purchase the boss katana 50 amp has some decent sound. Take care, Bob
Cheers Bob; that’s great. I hope your project goes well.
It's true even PRS, Gibson and many other huge guitarbrands paint mahogany opaque. It's just to cover up that a body is 2 or 3 piece mahogany like this one.
Even the Gibson Gold Top or other opaque colored Les Pauls do have a flamed maple top.
love that guitar .....I want one but have a couple others I got to finish up first.
I've seen/heard that Titebond 3 will lead to wood tear out if, at a later date, the wooden part needs to be removed with heat. Because it bonds so strongly.
It does bond strongly. If you’re planning on removing the neck for some reason you should consider hide glue instead.
@@BradAngove Titebond 3 is an aliphatic resin glue. The bond of all aliphatic (yellow) glues can be broken by applying acetic acid (white vinegar) .
Idea you're filling holes and drilling it back out again maybe use hot mud like 10 minute hot drywall mud then drill it out ? Put masking tape on face puddy in holes with hot mud it will always show easy to locate then drill it out just another idea. Mud will stick protect holes then drill out and separate clearly afterwards.
Btw Hi Brad,
Watching your Vlogs like watching a friend do a project.
Best David
Hi David. The issue is you need the strength there to hold the bridge posts. So you kind of need a nice sturdy piece of wood there.
@@BradAngove
Oh I was just thinking about for refinishing I really don't know enough step by step the tallent is there and all kinds of tool experience but guitar build knowledge, that's you. This you know, I just thought you needed to fill holes so finish stain and sealer and top coat finish wouldn't plug and reduce hole size, just a suggestion I guess I didn't know what you were doing, ignorance isn't always blissful.
Thank for responding, how you fairing all this isolation rig a ma'roll? Hope all's well I know I like to do carpentry nice work on homes where folks want that sort of quality, I lucked into a home rented by a lawyer who trashed a nice home when his wife left him and he became despondent. They wanted evidence and to carefully get personal effects back to him carefully, then as it will go to court for damages they have me lions share of work but the money ran out on that I put in several days "for fun" to thank home owner. But since then works been down people have rotting fruit on the vines but isolation says we can't approach that.
I wish you the best Brad,
dm
I want to get an SG kit. It would be my first kit guitar. Would you recommend going with upgraded hardware or just what comes in the kit
I would start with what’s in the kit. You might like most of it, and you can always upgrade after.
I’m not building an sg but I am stripping one and repainting the body and just oiling the neck.
Nice. Sounds like a fun project.
Good morning Brad! If the neck is off left or right, or the scale length is off, is this an issue for returning the kit, or just a part of the build to be addressed?
Thanks again.🍕🍺🏆👍
It depends. If the neck is stuck at an odd angle you will likely want to consider returning it. For the scale length, if it's close it's quite easy to just trim a bit off the heal or glue the neck a touch further out in the pocket to account for that.
Good!!!
I ordered my SG3 kit this morning, the picture it looks like that 3 tone cutting board deal was thinking about an opaque 2 tone matte finish how would you seal a matte finish?
Have a look at my video on how to do a matte black finish with spray cans.
Hey Brad.. DUCT TAPE fixed everything!! P.s, I'm thinking about doing an Angus Young SG replica. Any advice?
are you building it from a kit?
I knew it was a matter of time before the guitar brands started to get the kit makers case
I'm playing on making my own SG with my dad
Hey it's me again was wondering if you ever did a video on waterslide decals and how to apply them and clear over them without getting that ghost line around them I'm in the middle of refinishing a pool cue and the logo kinda got sanded off in the process of removing the old stain I've got a guy who can make me a custom waterslide with my name on it but I'm hesitant to go that route because I've seen so many waterslides with the ghosting around them
Sorry Richard, I don’t have anything on that topic.
for the QnA video, can transparent spraypaint be used as a clear coat?
I have a question you may be able to help me with. I’m building an sg as well at this time. And I’m totally stealing your space paint idea from the last sg build lol. I was wondering if I could do the space painting, finish with one coat of clear over it, scuff and level some after that dries, and lastly add spray poly over that? I’m more of a stain and poly/oil finish guy so this is a little out of my comfort zone and I wanna be sure the spray poly will be compatible. Thanks!
what kind of poly are you thinking of applying?
It’d be like minwax or something similar
Or maybe the spray helmsman spar urethane if the local store is out of regular poly. I have some clear I can use if these wouldn’t be compatible but I know the polys would be a tougher finish
You don't have to let tightbond sit for 24 hrs. Should probably mention that. I use it daily as a professional furniture builder. It won't be completely cured, but you will be able to safely move on your work after 10 minutes. If not I wouldn't be able to build several pieces of furniture every day. But, because it is not cured, extra attention must be taken to how careful you work. Great video btw.
Thanks Neil
Dig the T - Shirt
I can't see a link to buy this body and neck kit from Solo. You mentioned in vid 1 that if I ordered from your link you would benefit. I want to order.
Hi Kevin, I have a solo link in the description to their site. If you go through that link and then go to this kit or anything else on the site it helps me out.
I want to build a SG Angus young series and make it as a tribute! I have never built a guitar or have any of the tools! Lol I need a small neck due to my hand size! Any input would be awesome! I can afford my dream guitar so I’m hoping to just take my time and build as I get the money!
Most kit places don’t have that kind of customizability. You may have to find a custom builder.
If I order a sg kit can I put a Floyd Rose on it. I pretty much want a Gibson sg cm black but those aren’t made and are expensive. And I’m just 13 and don’t have that money. Thanks
If you know how to do the routing you could. You will need to adjust the neck angle as well though to account for not having a raised bridge. Not the easiest starter project, but doable.
Yo Brad, totally off topic but you might remember the jokes in past vids. I actually cut my own hair, and I'm still alive LOL. This partial top veneer looks sick, like some high end custom made instruments. Wondering if the transition is smooth.
The transition on this one is nice and smooth. This is old footage haha. I still haven’t gotten a haircut.
@@BradAngove There's a couple photos of this one on insta, is that it? Looks super smooth, the fade gives it like a moonlight effect.
is there a special procedure to paint over oil finished wood? there are some cheap mahogany jacksons with oil finishes and i was considering scooping one to try a paint job
It depends on what you’re painting it with. With oil based paints there’s nothing special to it.
Is there any good reason you can't drill holes and make a fixed neck a bolt on neck? Ordered 2 kits today but the veneer I wanted weren't bolt on necks and I want them to be
it depends. some of the set necks have a longer heel to allow for more gluing area. you would want to cut that off the guitar and glue it in probably. then set up the rest as a bolt on. otherwise the neck pickup could create and issue for you.
Tight bond 3 is that a polyester glue? Another point don't over tighten clamps as you actually can squeeze out so much, too much glue and it doesn't have enough glue to glue well.
Yep I know glueing things up very well I have 4 decades of glueing things up my dad was a master's degreed shop teacher @ U of W and I worked with a friend he's got his degree in shop specialized in glues and finishes funny thing I'll go and do a project with him in San Diego every time he'll be very specific come up to me later on and see me doing it, "Oh you know what you're doing " yeah Jim we started out in the trades together, Jim remember? He's our contact to Jim Goodall he remains close to Goodall. The way maybe we can get some Goodall shop tour or maybe a raw Goodall guitar for you to do the finish. We'll get that's Stradivarius level yet.... I'm thinking
If you have way to send contact info your lawyer brain remembers me I'll give you Jim one's info to give Jim 2 contact how about a trip to Hawaii to visit Goodall I think it's a win win seven principles of highly effective people level stuff.
☺
Best David
Yet another great vid yeah duh many clear finishes over mahogany come on fellas just recently mahogany become more rare it's used for so much furniture instruments mass numbers of guitars etc.
You dont bought the apprpriate bridge ..gibson has two size
I want to start building guitars but I'm worried about wiring them is it hard to do that?
The kits come partially wired, so it’s not too bad. You can also buy wiring harnesses like the one I will be installing in this guitar that make it even easier.
Just practice the basics. Adding solder to the ends of the wires, heating the solder point first. Won’t take you long.
+1 for what John Bambara said- lots if online tutorials regarding soldering techniques, keeping your iron clean and tinned, etc. Even prewired kits require a minimum of soldering, and you'll discover that wiring from scratch isnt really that difficult-nearly any schematic you want to replicate is available for free on the web- go for it!
About guitar backs: Fender, Gibson, Ibanez etc do what they call a "one-and-done" on most of them. Only the high end ones get special treatments on the backs and 5 years later, its all buckle rashed anyways so who cares?
on painting the back you mean?
@@BradAngove -Yes,like I said.
This just in, Gibson announced it will be filing a lawsuit against the alphabet for the flagrant use of the letters "S&G". Legal experts predict that once again, Gibson will lose.......
Haha that’s great
I have the same SOLO kit, not my first SOLO kit. Let it sit for some months & the change will shock you. NEVER do a kit build right away. You will regret it. Word to the wise.
That said it's a pretty nice body shape & neck/fret board, but the frets are kinda junky. Par for the course, it's a kit.
The frets in mine are pretty decent actually, but they will still need some leveling of course, just like any kit.
@Fafafuhi 22 The wood will shrink over time and the neck socket will be different. This might also negatively affect the finish.
My SGK-10 kit is a piece of garbage. The neck is way to sloppy and the "tongue" on the heel is about 3/4" away from the edge of the pickup cavity, nowhere near bottoming out like yours. I have to make a jig that will clamp the neck into alignment to glue it up, and there is so little contact, I'm going to be relying on the strap button screw to hold the neck on. I'm glad yours was better quality, but I will never buy Solo again.
I’m surprised you would make a jig. Why not just mark where it goes in the cavity with a pencil and then clamp it there when you glue it?