This is the MOST DETAILED Video of an JD800 restauration on the whole internet! WOW! For the DAC recalibration you don't need a scope. Just use your ears. When the sine plays, you'll hear the distortion pretty quick.
I stripped and serviced my JD800 a few years ago ... fortunately, the keyboard had already been replaced but the sliders and switches were in very poor condition. I ended up desoldering and disassembling every slider as the synth kept 'self-editing' as the dirt kept randomly shorting or triggering the slider parameters. I cleaned everything with isopropyl and relubed the slider which stopped the dreaded 'self-editing' bug and then replaced the switches with a set I had bought off ebay and that gave it a new lease on life. Well worth the effort on such a fantastic synth.
A lot of the synths the sliders are available new still, which is always a great option as well. Fortunately for my JD800 the sliders just needed cleaning and lubrication. Glad to hear yours is in great shape!
@@Ambientnauts I normally desolder and open them, but only clean the track and contact end with IPA & cotton tip, don't clean or lube the rest unless it grinds. With an electric desolder tool, removal is rapid and on the 52nd slider, the last one takes 2m 30s to clean including testing with a psu, resistor & scope to confirm. The first ever clean on my synth was done with a big vacuum cleaner with fine nozzle, worked a treat. Another issue is that shoddy people spray the entire board with deoxit and it contaminates the connector surfaces causing issues (fault looks like bad pots) and gets everywhere - so messy. Another issue is that the 10uF electrolytic caps in the front panels go dry and they filter the reference voltage feeding the pots....so they appear noisy when they are not :-)
@@guywilkinson I had a sneaking feeling that a musician friend is constantly ruining his vintage synths. He says spray dexoit on the keys if you have dead ones. I am like that sounds like a really bad idea, there is rubber under there and contacts. And he is constantly bringing them in for repair. Thanks for you thoughtful input. When I use IPA do you use 70% or 99% ? Does it matter...
Great vid! This is a truly excellent resource for all other JD800 owners. Apart from the effort to repair your JD800, this video would have taken a lot of work to put together and is very clear and easy to follow. Thank you!
You are amazing! I love watching sythesizers being repaired and bought back to life by wonderful people like you! I'm currently a BA Hons music student and you taught me so much!
From a professional electronics technician >35 yrs. of component-level repair experience, that was the most professional example of an electronic repair job I have ever seen!
Thanks so much! I just paid $1000 cash for one that I was assured was "working perfectly" and got it home just to find all the classic problems. I followed this video and got the same rubber key strips from Turkey as you did and everything is working perfectly. I have to say, your JD was way more messed up than mine. For the springs I found it easier to just dab a little grease on the end before putting in place. The Q-tips were making a mess on the first couple for me. Thanks again.
Thank you so much!!! I got one and three of the keys were broken in shipment. I took it to a local Roland repair shop, but they were backlogged, so I decided to give it a go, watching your video. I got the replacement keys and after following all your steps on how to insert them, it worked! The black strips that held down the back end of the keys were brittle, and a couple broke off, but I added small amounts of gorilla glue and they held. If I have discovered a “gorilla glue” problem, I will report back! Thanks, again!!
I wish I could explain the level of gratitude for your video. I of course have the same gooey sticky mess on my keys and you sir just gave me a project nobody would undertake. I love this synth and I was in deep sadness on its demise but NO MORE. Thanks thanks and thanks again.
Exactly what I needed, am going to be cracking mine open to fix the red glue issue in mine. This will be extremely helpful in my efforts. Thanks a million!
I would like to thank you for the extremely detailed video, which helped me in the cleaning operation of a jd800, which in reality had already undergone a cleaning process, but which still needed some interventions due to a couple of keys still sticky on the usage.. 👏👏👏👏👏👏❤
I just dealt with the red glue, wasn’t bad, just a few drips, so what I did was remove all the keys, soaked them in hot water, scraped off as much as I could and then resealed the edges of the weights with a new epoxy so nothing else could ever drip. Perfect fix!
Glad to have found this! I also have a JD800, and it has shed most of its key weights (i.e., red glue issue). Going to use your video here to guide me in clearing out the glue and restoring the key bed. Cheers!
@geneticeffetcs - Good luck! Caustic soda works very well like in Scott video. I let my keys soak for 24hrs, some of the weights didnt come out, so I soaked in fresh solution for 48hrs and all weights dropped off by themselves (give solution the odd stir). I used 500grams of caustic in regular bucket filled to near the top.
This vid truly saved me. Just had to do the red glue / re-glue of the weights, put in the standard power socket and change out the battery. Thanks, Scott!!!! By the way, i've watched this vid so many times i sometimes find myself humming the background music melody 🙂
@@ScottsSynthStuff nah man, it's a cool track! in particular i dig that guitar riff. something about it takes me back to the 80s. good stuff! and thanks again, my man!
This is very interesting! I bought a JD-800 new in 1992 .. and still have hit. I had no idea of the red glue situation till I was reading an interview somewhere with Rick Wakeman and he mentioned the red glue on his, I immediately dropped my magazine .. ran out to the studio and looked under the keybed and sure enough sticky red glue dripping down the front of the keys! I then checked my D-70 (which I still have) and same thing! 😡 lol. So this was in the year 2004, I lived about 45min from Roland Los Angeles ,so I drove both the JD-800 and D-70 over to Roland .. and they replaced BOTH keybeds with brand new keybeds .. some 12 years after I bought em! Both keybeds are excellent .. much better than even modern Fatar keybeds! The only bummer was when I took the synths over to Roland in Anvil cases .. they were both in perfect like new condition, but Roland put a nice scratch in the finish on the top of both synths in areas you see everytime you play em, being pretty OCD I was pretty upset at that .. but getting brand new keybeds for free kinda made up for the scratches .. that glue was nasty 😳 If not for the scratches Roland put in em they both are perfect condition time capsules .. that I never play, my VST plugin synths have replaced all my vintage hardware synths that I still own in daily working use. Anyway I thought I’d share this since your into refurbing old synths.
Yes, Roland had a "recall" of sorts on those synths where they were replacing the faulty keybeds with new ones. It went on for quite a while, but they eventually stopped, and the keybeds aren't available anymore. I did see online where someone shoehorned a modern Fatar keybed into his JD-800. It wasn't a perfect fit, he had to make minor modifications to the case and do some work on the circuitry, but it did work.
Thanks for the video Scott! So helpful. It looks like the keys can move left/right quite a bit due to the brush on rubber. If you take it a part again, you might want to find tubes like you used, but thinner walled so you can fix that issue. Maybe even a teflon tube material. I would check out McMaster Carr. Also, regarding lithium grease on plastic - that may have been a bad idea. Lithium grease is usually mineral, or petroleum oil based. Better to avoid that for plastic and anywhere near electronics. It may erode the plastic surface. Also, it tends to migrate everywhere. I mean by spreading out in a thin layer to cover everything it touches. If it drips onto the circuit board, it may migrate underneath the gray keyboard caps, and onto the carbon pads and ruin them. What you used may be OK. Check it. For anyone doing this from the scratch, though, do some research on plastic safe silicon grease. Silicon grease is far better for plastic, or metal on plastic interfaces. You will find different viscosity and compositions. On a synth keyboard, you want a thin grease (or at least not really thick) which will not impede the key from bouncing back quickly. But make sure it has good adhesion for metal to plastic applications so it also doesn't just scrape off. If unsure, any common silicon grease is likely better than any lithium grease. Regarding the carbon keycaps on the keyboard. There are kits you can buy that have a carbon material you can paint onto the black carbon pads on the rubber caps. Results may vary. Being able to buy a proper replacement is by far better, but in case people can't find replacement rubber caps, this is an alternative to consider. No restoration is perfect, and each job is a learning experience. So please don't take my comments harshly. We all learn this stuff together, which is why you video is so invaluable. Thanks!
I agree, I could potentially find a different, thinner walled rubber tubing, but at that point, I wanted to get it back together, and that's the option I thought of - it actually works (feels) quite good. The lithium grease I've actually used extensively in plastic applications before on motorcycles, but that is ABS - I'm not sure what the keys on the JD-800 are, but they don't feel like ABS to me. I will watch, but this grease in particular does not liquify at commonly found environmental temperatures, so it should be OK. I actually did have a tube of Caikot 44 amzn.to/3abKFuy on-hand to do that carbon recoating, but when I first discovered some of the keys were not working well, I tried using it without much success. That's the point at which I went ahead and ordered replacements. I didn't cover the use of the Caikot in the video, because it did not actually work for my problem.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Re: Calkot, ya that is what I feared. I have some, but haven't used it yet. I had heard it has mixed results. I was dealing with vintage computer keyboards and have seen some people have success, but others not. Might be circumstantial. Such is the world of restoration. Luckily, I have always been able to restore such keyboards through cleaning the pads (meaning the pads weren't that far gone).
Hi Scott. Just stumbled across this great restoration video. I have a beloved JD800 that has the same "red glue of death" problem. It's had it for years and even though the white key key weights have fallen out, the keys still functioned. Black as well. But in the last year or so, I suddenly got dead keys. Some would play and some would not (black or white keys). They were all still pressing down, not stuck. What was strange was it would depend on which patch. Keys that were dead might sound when switched to a different patch. Thought it was a voice card going bad. Took it to a local shop and the guy said the glue got into the key contacts. Thought that was strange since, as I explained here and to him, that keys would function on a per patch basis. Anyway, he said parts are no longer available and nothing could be done. I even contacted Roland and they basically said the same and that they don't service these synths anymore. The rest of the synth works just fine, and I'm using a controller keyboard to play the JD (all keys sound). I have learned that I could try finding a used Roland U20 somewhere as it uses the same keybed, but would have to find one that also doesn't have the glue issue. Those are hard to find problem or not. I really hate the fact that my beautiful JD has been relegated to being just a sound module. I don't really have the time or expertise to get into a lengthy restoration project. So, I have to ask, would you be willing to restore just the keybed for me? I am willing to pay for your time and materials (within reason!). I tried finding a way to direct message you here to ask, but there doesn't seem to be one. If there's a better way to contact you, please let me know and let's talk. I'm in the Los Angeles area. Could send it to you and pay for return shipping in addition to the repair costs. It's ok of you can't or don't want to. I'd understand, but I would be forever grateful. Would love for someone who has the knowledge of doing this to help out as I'm afraid I'll ruin something even more. Thank you.
I would suggest talking to one of these people - they do these fixes professionally, and have access to the aftermarket keyboard flex PCB that you're likely going to need: supersynthprojects.com/availability/fitting-partners/
I admire your commitment to the instrument. I found one in town for 700 but it got the red goo. You’ve put it in perspective and I think it’s a hard pass lol
I did this in 2020 during the lockdown. I used baking soda in warm water. It took a few days but did a perfect job. He should have kept the new silicone tubing in and remove the excess glue from the keys with a knife. It's tedious but its worth it. Otherwise, great job. I like to leave no evidence of the repair being carried out. It should look like it was done in the factory.
Thank You so much for this video! It helped me a lot to fix the keybed of JD-800 and will help me to fix the keybed of D-70 in the future. I didn't write down the list of exact key placements asi you did but I didn't really see any difference between e.g. CF 2-3 and CF 4-3 and the service manual states only 5 different types of white keys and one type of black key. I hope it is not a problem that I put them back kind of randomly. Thank You once again.
I found a very easy way of getting the rubber nubs of the key contacts to go back in the holes in the steal. Use the back end of the right size drill bit to push it in. They slide in easily with no oil..
The keys remind me of my Roland E-16. Numbered in the same way. And same way to lift them out of the keybed. But I don't think mine has the weights in them. And they have coiled springs, instead of the spring clips you have. Luckily, mine doesn't have the drippy glue. I wouldn't feel safe cleaning them with the chemical solution. I also remember those rubber tips that you had to squeeze through the holes. Very delicate indeed.
The chemical solution is really nasty. You also have to be very careful not to inhale the powdered form, which is why I was wearing the mask. But it cleans the glue off like nothing else, without harming the plastic keys.
Год назад+1
Incredible work, a lot of dedication! I want to clean the buttons switches of a Korg Radias, and the volume potentiometer and patch change dial, could the DeoxIt Faders work? Or would it be better to replace them? Thank's
Tactile buttons are pretty much sealed, and are usually better to just replace. The potentiometers you can definitely use DeoxIT F5, as for the rotary encoders, they are generally not something you can service. If they are malfunctioning, you need to replace them.
Год назад
@@ScottsSynthStuff Oh, excellent! One more question, the pots that have a "pause" in each option, which are to select the octave or waveform (commonly in Moog analog synthesizers), are they encoders or potentiometers? thank you
Ahhh, I wish I had thought to write it down at the time! That would have been good information for people looking to replace them. I just weighed one of the weights I DID have, then cut a piece of steel flat bar stock and ground it down until it matched that weight.
I just started the red glue repair. I need to get the contact strips and clean the contacts under them. There is a line of 8 contacts and a line of 4 that don't work correctly so hopefully the deoxit works. Its in very nice cosmetic condition and I only paid 160.00 so the extra money put into it's well worth it.
If you have several in a row that don't work (i.e. 4 in a row, 8 in a row) then the problem is usually the clamp at the side of the keybed that clamps the two ribbon cables together. Roland used cheap plastic to hold them together, and it's not enough. I removed the plastic rivets holding that plastic piece in place, and VERY carefully, without disturbing the ribbon cables, replaced it with a piece of steel covered in foam rubber. I then fastened it in place with screws and nuts. It fixed the problem.
@@ScottsSynthStuff that's exactly what's wrong with it, the second 8 keys in a row and 4 closer to the other end. The 8 made no sound at all and the 4 did but intermittent. So the extra pressure holding the ribbon down worked then without having to do anything else to the contacts. They look good.
It is a cleaner and a lubricant. If the malfunction is due to dirt or dust in the pot track, then yes, this will usually fix it. If the malfunction is due to a broken area of the pot track in the fader, then the fader will have to be replaced (although SOME can be repaired, but it's not easy).
Regarding the Fader lube - Sometimes initially it can make the faders feel stiff and stuck! However after an hour or two they settle down and become smooth again.
Yes, it is not a virtual analog synths. It is a samplebased digital synth with a wonderful user interface. Except for the bad choice of glue of course.
@@VANVASSS They haven't been made for a really long time, and the originals basically are no longer available anywhere. Someone did make an aftermarket replacement, I'm not sure if they are still available or not - check here: supersynthprojects.com/home/roland-keyboard-replacement-pcb/
Hi Scott. Ive just pulled all the switches off the preset selector board and I'm concerned about damage to the tracks that you mentioned. Could you explain a little about the tracks in question and what you did to repair them please?
The PCB traces are very thin and can pull off and break if heated too much. I would not suggest this repair for someone who does not have a LOT of experience with soldering rework. If a trace is broken, you need to recreate it using wire and solder.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks man. I've already desoldered the switches, so I'm all in :) - just waiting for the hardware now from china - lets see what happens!
Hey, thanks again for the great vid @ScottsSynthStuff - quick question: I have regular deoxit D5 (not the fader version). Do you think it safe for the faders? You or anyone have suggestion on that?
I had some glue on the flexible PCB. The PCB is fragile and tough to replace, so I just left it. You could try encapsulating it in something (i.e. spray lacquer), but make sure whatever you use is compatible with the flexible PCB.
Hey Scott, just wanted to ask in case you know. I got the synth up and working perfectly. I then double checked the battery voltage, put it back in, it asked to re-initialize, I said YES. Then, the keyboard was haywire and certain keys refuse to work, others are super loud. I tried re-initializing several times, but nothing changing. Any suggestions, by any chance?
Hello where did you buy the replacement green key strip? Can you share the Turkish shop too? Mine has too much red glue everywhere and i will probably need to replace it. Thank you for the help.
I'm currently in the process of restoring a JD800, I notice that some of the buttons are the silicon/rubber type and others are just the solid little buttons. For example, on my JD800 the up/down/left/right arrow buttons are the plain solid type, whereas the patch/bank ones all have the rubbery fellows. I wonder if the plain solid type would work for ALL the buttons and just not bother with the rubbery ones at all?
If you're going to replace them, I'd replace them with the correct switches - you may find you end up getting "phantom" presses on the hard buttons that are supposed to have the silicone buttons. There are sellers on eBay that sell a full replacement switch kit that includes all the different switches, and they aren't expensive.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Yeah totally, not about price. I ordered 50 silicon ones for about £5. I'm wondering about the original choice of tact, why go for one type under the cursors and another under the patch selectors? In essence it's one of two things I guess, either a matter of aesthetic (cursors want to feel more positive and clicky, and others a little more warm and fuzzy?) or it's more about form factor and finding something that fits. I'm a little perplexed to be honest. Anyway, I ordered some rubbery ones from China for a few pounds and they should be here in about a six or seven hundred years.
Thankyou! this is a great video Scott! Started restoring mine at the weekend. How did you remove the glue from the green circuit board strip that runs the length of the keyboard that the rubber contacts and keys sit on (like at @ 08:04 in video)? I'm a bit scared to try and freeze and scrap it off.
I wouldn't try to freeze that - the plastic circuit strip would become very brittle, and you'd likely end up breaking it. The glue that was in the felt, I tried at first to just replace the areas of felt with glue, but in the end, I just replaced the entire felt strip.
Dear Scott, can you please send me the key list of the JD 800. I forgot to make one. 3 Years ago I removed all red glue. But in the moment only to of the contacts work. I don't know the reason for.
The PSU is an enclosed metal box within the case, there is no movement or cable strain, and nothing that can come anywhere near the IEC connectors. Heatshrink on those wires would do absolutely nothing to increase safety or prevent shorting. If it was exposed in the case, I probably would have done it. I didn't use cutters to bend those wires - they are a tiny set of pliers - they might look like cutters, but they are actually flat-surfaced miniature pliers!
I have a JD8000 that just started doing this about 4 months ago. I do have 4 keys that are stuck together (sticky together), but beyond that everything works great and the board looks like new. I think it just need to be opened and have the keys cleaned and weights reglued. However, this repair is CLEARLY beyond my abilities. What do you think this board is worth in the condition it's in. I think part of the reason the glue didn't do the damage of yours is because I stored it on a stand at about a 30 degree angle. ( I favorite playing angle ). Any response would be appreciated. Thanks.
I've no idea - I'd have to see if there are any still on reverb that need the keys worked on. Having the glue problem significantly devalues the synth - it's worth having it done, as I suspect the value increase in the synth will be more than you pay for the repair.
Sir, I have a problem in my Roland D-50. That is display problem. I can see the display is on but no letters showing in the display. And keyboard not working ⚒⚒
Uhh just scored one works , but the keyboard oh god...the glue and the weights are everywhere. Wish me luck! Actually looked ok on pickup but the half hour car ride to home in 30C+ temp made it all fall apart hah...
@@ScottsSynthStuff Little update, the glue was quite easy to get off with NaOh, actually took a few hours not a day like people say everywhere. Could be the extremely hot weather. But note to people who do this also dont be too eager to reassemble too fast, let it soak in detergent after for a longer time as i now have a keyboard that smells literally fishy. Also the flex PCB is intermittent need something to push on it so the keyboard doesnt cut off every now and then.
hello I would like to ask a question... Could the chemical you used to remove the glue be used to remove the epoxy from vintage chips without damaging their components? For example, the chips responsible for the voices of the Roland Juno-106..
I appreciate your prompt response. I managed to remove the glue by submerging the piece in boiled water for 10 minutes and it works but you have to be careful when removing the epoxy
Really amazing video, thanks so much for making it, the detail you go into really helps. Sometimes those forum posts just can't match seeing a video of the process! A question for you though: do you have any recommendations for non-chemical-based solutions for the red glue? Or perhaps a less-strong chemical? Not sure my girlfriend would appreciate a bucket of keys soaking in sodium hydroxide in my tiny apartment 😅
I've read of some people using other solutions, but none work as well or quickly as the sodium hydroxide. Perhaps there's a weekend she's going away soon, and you might have the bucket in the bathtub (with the exhaust fan going)? :)
They are diodes, and are part of the keyboard matrix. They are potted in epoxy on the flexible PCB, and are very important - the keybed won't work correctly without them.
Thanks so much for your video. My JD-800 was the first thing I ever bought with my first ever real paycheck in 1994.* Gutted that it’s glued up. I may have trashed my Flex PCB by testing acetone on it, then using NaOH, which got through a pinhole somewhere. Should have just stuck with the NaOH. I’ve been dripping it into the felt to see if that just removed the glue there too. * I as a toddler I put clothes pegs/pins all around the table and played “Cars” on them…
Hi Scott.Thanks for the great video. Just opened up my JD and looks like the glue has dripped onto the cicuit board, in some cases onto a diode. Is there a safe way to get rid of the glue with damaging the cirtcuit board and diodes ? @@ScottsSynthStuff
@@ScottsSynthStuff It makes sense. I used 40g per 1L and had a few keys that needed to be repeated multiple times they were glued so well to the bottom. I just seriously caution anyone using this stuff to be extremely EXTREMELY careful - people can go blind, have major burns (you won't feel it until hours later, so just a quick rinse is not sufficient), and people have died from this stuff. Do NOT skip out on the PPE here. Read up on the toxicology reports before using it so you know what you're getting into.
WOW!....Great job and video! Tremendous effort on both accounts! So what background is your electronics experience from as it seams a whole lot farther than a normal hobbyist and your tools are a bit more than you would need for motorcycle repair? This video has got me a bit motivated...years ago I bought a Roland D10 for $25 at a pawn shop because it had 8 dead keys. I believe its time to fix them over the winter.
I've done electronics design for decades as a hobby, everything from audio to microprocessors, so yeah - I have a bit more experience than most. :) Have a look at this video for one of my projects: ruclips.net/video/CDjntt-S7xQ/видео.html
@@ScottsSynthStuff Well that explains a lot .Much respect to your inventiveness and honed abilities. People like you i have found are in short supply and I thank you for your contributions! BTW I grew up with a Dad who was steep in electronics and more. He worked for Cambridge instruments installing laser microscopes and the machines that made microchips in the 80's and 90's for the northeastern USA. So yeah, the first law I ever knew was "ohms" lol
They put two holes in case one of the base is damaged so that you can use the spare/second hole with unspoiled screwing base. Rolands and Korgs commonly have that connection style then.
Hi Scott, thanks for this amazing resource! It's probably my most watched youtube video at the moment 🙂 I have a question regarding the numbers of the keys: Does it make a difference where the keys with the specific numbers go or can they be interchanged? Could you provide your list of keys or is it different for each instrument?
As long as it is the correct key (F goes in the F slot, etc) it doesn't matter. The number is just how they identify which injection mold the key came from at the factory, so an F1, F2, F3 all work just fine for an F. They needed to know at the factory if all of a sudden they start seeing defects in F keys, which of the F key molds was responsible for the defects. Makes no difference to us. :)
That red goo looks nasty... Apparently they used different stuff in the older D-50? That looks perfect by me... I think it is a very interesting synth, with all the hardware controls on it, the patches don't make me too enthusiastic though... I guess I should try once one and see what I get out of it before buying one. At least a good point to look for one that had its keybed replaced...
Those plastic end cheeks were unfortunate, they take the brunt of the impact when the synth gets hit or dropped on the side, and they do crack. You'd have to open it up and do some measurements to be sure that the volume control is the issue however.
@Scott's Synth Stuff Any chance I could mail it to you? You seem to know quite a bit about the JD-800, so I was wondering if I could send it to you. Trying to exhaust all my options at this point.
I restored a JD-800. Mainly the keyobard red glue repair. I find that the JD-800 is very unreliable in multimode though MIDI. Sounds play on the wrong channels sometimes. Especially problems with parts 3, 4 and 5. Drums are 100% reliable though. Its also relaible in Multi without MIDI pluggd in. Anyone else had issues? I can't find anything online about these issues on this old synth. I wonder if I have weird CPU fault.
I rarely use mine in multi mode, as you lose so much of the FX which really are part of the sounds in this synth. That said, the MIDI in the JD-800 is definitely...unstable. I have a problem with mine where if you send it transport control data too quickly, the JD-800 just stops responding to MIDI altogether: gearspace.com/board/music-computers/1384116-jd-800-midi-shuts-up.html
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks. I'm just a beginner with MIDI control and using Cakewalk free software to try to get it working. I managed to get 6 part multi working in the end. I've still seen it refuse to allow you change the patch on the part. I found that flicking it to single mode and back to multi again recovers that. The actual problem is probably me with inexperienced menu control...
@@simonmartin4599 It's not you - it's the synth. The problem I found with the sound engine dying in single mode is also fixed by switching to multi mode and back to single again. Firmware bugs that will never be fixed. :)
I normally have a large workspace to disassemble synths on camera....but the JD-800 was just too big to fit! I actually did try a white sheet underneath originally, but it was blowing out the camera's exposure and making the overall image too dark, so I switched to a dark rug.
Just fyi, that's really not an unusual power inlet. It's an IEC C18 inlet (which uses an IEC C17 cable) which is basically a 2 pin version of the IEC C14 inlet (which uses an IEC C13 cable) that most grounded electronics use. A lot of hi-fi stereo equipment use the 2-prong IEC C17/C18 to avoid ground looping.
Correct...but those are FAR less common nowadays than the IEC C13/C14 that is pretty much everywhere. If you had a C17 go bad on the road, your chances of finding a replacement quickly are pretty much nil. But C13's can be cribbed from any number of devices. That was the reason I replaced it.
cut the sharp point from a toothpick to put your keycontacts back in , did it a million times myself on different keyboards. on the other side there is a like a little hole, with a small press they go in very easy
Ive restored mine by Roland Benelux for less then 400 euro's .... had half of the notes not working , all push buttons stuck ... fades we're ok Did this in 2021 and it is as good as new
I had JD800 and the keyboard is the worst Roland has ever made, its good when it works but too many issues with dust and keys not triggering and red glue crap. I got tired of fixing it all the time so I sold it. Its too much work lol... but , Im getting another one soon and it needs alot of work... so here we go, its gonna suck lol.
weird how such gem videos get few views while an idiot doing meaningless stuff gets millions....maybe just shows how 'clever' some people are...bored and lazy....knowledge is power they say.....wish they knew as well....sad world
@@RabbitintheMoon Yeah, anytime you need a tech, I work on everything from Roland to Rane, Pioneer, synths and computers too. Thanks for all the great memories and god speed! 🙌🏽
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
You, sir, have extraordinary patience and should be awarded a medal for your contribution to the preservation of music history.
This is the MOST DETAILED Video of an JD800 restauration on the whole internet! WOW!
For the DAC recalibration you don't need a scope. Just use your ears. When the sine plays, you'll hear the distortion pretty quick.
I stripped and serviced my JD800 a few years ago ... fortunately, the keyboard had already been replaced but the sliders and switches were in very poor condition. I ended up desoldering and disassembling every slider as the synth kept 'self-editing' as the dirt kept randomly shorting or triggering the slider parameters. I cleaned everything with isopropyl and relubed the slider which stopped the dreaded 'self-editing' bug and then replaced the switches with a set I had bought off ebay and that gave it a new lease on life. Well worth the effort on such a fantastic synth.
A lot of the synths the sliders are available new still, which is always a great option as well. Fortunately for my JD800 the sliders just needed cleaning and lubrication. Glad to hear yours is in great shape!
I avoid deoxit personally, just adds to contamination, gathering and sticking the dust together.
@@guywilkinson what do you use instead?
@@Ambientnauts I normally desolder and open them, but only clean the track and contact end with IPA & cotton tip, don't clean or lube the rest unless it grinds. With an electric desolder tool, removal is rapid and on the 52nd slider, the last one takes 2m 30s to clean including testing with a psu, resistor & scope to confirm.
The first ever clean on my synth was done with a big vacuum cleaner with fine nozzle, worked a treat.
Another issue is that shoddy people spray the entire board with deoxit and it contaminates the connector surfaces causing issues (fault looks like bad pots) and gets everywhere - so messy.
Another issue is that the 10uF electrolytic caps in the front panels go dry and they filter the reference voltage feeding the pots....so they appear noisy when they are not :-)
@@guywilkinson I had a sneaking feeling that a musician friend is constantly ruining his vintage synths. He says spray dexoit on the keys if you have dead ones. I am like that sounds like a really bad idea, there is rubber under there and contacts. And he is constantly bringing them in for repair. Thanks for you thoughtful input. When I use IPA do you use 70% or 99% ? Does it matter...
Great repair video! I need to replace the bushings on my JD800 as well. You video is pure gold!
Great vid! This is a truly excellent resource for all other JD800 owners. Apart from the effort to repair your JD800, this video would have taken a lot of work to put together and is very clear and easy to follow. Thank you!
You are amazing! I love watching sythesizers being repaired and bought back to life by wonderful people like you! I'm currently a BA Hons music student and you taught me so much!
Will I don't know if I would call myself amazing, but thank you for your kind words, and good luck on your studies & career!
From a professional electronics technician >35 yrs. of component-level repair experience, that was the most professional example of an electronic repair job I have ever seen!
Thanks so much! I just paid $1000 cash for one that I was assured was "working perfectly" and got it home just to find all the classic problems. I followed this video and got the same rubber key strips from Turkey as you did and everything is working perfectly. I have to say, your JD was way more messed up than mine. For the springs I found it easier to just dab a little grease on the end before putting in place. The Q-tips were making a mess on the first couple for me. Thanks again.
I'm so grateful to you for taking the time walk us through your process. Incredibly helpful!
That project was far more involved than I expected it to be...
Amazing job Scott well done as that was a lot of hard work and patience .
Another JD-800 that will live on in the synth world.
Thank you so much!!! I got one and three of the keys were broken in shipment. I took it to a local Roland repair shop, but they were backlogged, so I decided to give it a go, watching your video. I got the replacement keys and after following all your steps on how to insert them, it worked! The black strips that held down the back end of the keys were brittle, and a couple broke off, but I added small amounts of gorilla glue and they held. If I have discovered a “gorilla glue” problem, I will report back! Thanks, again!!
I wish I could explain the level of gratitude for your video. I of course have the same gooey sticky mess on my keys and you sir just gave me a project nobody would undertake. I love this synth and I was in deep sadness on its demise but NO MORE. Thanks thanks and thanks again.
Exactly what I needed, am going to be cracking mine open to fix the red glue issue in mine. This will be extremely helpful in my efforts. Thanks a million!
I would like to thank you for the extremely detailed video, which helped me in the cleaning operation of a jd800, which in reality had already undergone a cleaning process, but which still needed some interventions due to a couple of keys still sticky on the usage.. 👏👏👏👏👏👏❤
Wow. Now that I have watched the entire video ...
That was a lot of work ! Awesome job on repairing it.
I just dealt with the red glue, wasn’t bad, just a few drips, so what I did was remove all the keys, soaked them in hot water, scraped off as much as I could and then resealed the edges of the weights with a new epoxy so nothing else could ever drip. Perfect fix!
Glad to have found this! I also have a JD800, and it has shed most of its key weights (i.e., red glue issue). Going to use your video here to guide me in clearing out the glue and restoring the key bed. Cheers!
I had all but one of them, and just made my own replacement. It works great now!
@geneticeffetcs - Good luck! Caustic soda works very well like in Scott video. I let my keys soak for 24hrs, some of the weights didnt come out, so I soaked in fresh solution for 48hrs and all weights dropped off by themselves (give solution the odd stir). I used 500grams of caustic in regular bucket filled to near the top.
This vid truly saved me. Just had to do the red glue / re-glue of the weights, put in the standard power socket and change out the battery. Thanks, Scott!!!! By the way, i've watched this vid so many times i sometimes find myself humming the background music melody 🙂
Oh, I'm so sorry about that!! :) The same two chords back and forth....
@@ScottsSynthStuff nah man, it's a cool track! in particular i dig that guitar riff. something about it takes me back to the 80s. good stuff! and thanks again, my man!
This is very interesting! I bought a JD-800 new in 1992 .. and still have hit. I had no idea of the red glue situation till I was reading an interview somewhere with Rick Wakeman and he mentioned the red glue on his, I immediately dropped my magazine .. ran out to the studio and looked under the keybed and sure enough sticky red glue dripping down the front of the keys! I then checked my D-70 (which I still have) and same thing! 😡 lol. So this was in the year 2004, I lived about 45min from Roland Los Angeles ,so I drove both the JD-800 and D-70 over to Roland .. and they replaced BOTH keybeds with brand new keybeds .. some 12 years after I bought em! Both keybeds are excellent .. much better than even modern Fatar keybeds! The only bummer was when I took the synths over to Roland in Anvil cases .. they were both in perfect like new condition, but Roland put a nice scratch in the finish on the top of both synths in areas you see everytime you play em, being pretty OCD I was pretty upset at that .. but getting brand new keybeds for free kinda made up for the scratches .. that glue was nasty 😳 If not for the scratches Roland put in em they both are perfect condition time capsules .. that I never play, my VST plugin synths have replaced all my vintage hardware synths that I still own in daily working use. Anyway I thought I’d share this since your into refurbing old synths.
Yes, Roland had a "recall" of sorts on those synths where they were replacing the faulty keybeds with new ones. It went on for quite a while, but they eventually stopped, and the keybeds aren't available anymore.
I did see online where someone shoehorned a modern Fatar keybed into his JD-800. It wasn't a perfect fit, he had to make minor modifications to the case and do some work on the circuitry, but it did work.
Beautiful work - beautiful synth... Thank you, Scott!
Thanks for the video Scott! So helpful.
It looks like the keys can move left/right quite a bit due to the brush on rubber. If you take it a part again, you might want to find tubes like you used, but thinner walled so you can fix that issue. Maybe even a teflon tube material. I would check out McMaster Carr.
Also, regarding lithium grease on plastic - that may have been a bad idea. Lithium grease is usually mineral, or petroleum oil based. Better to avoid that for plastic and anywhere near electronics. It may erode the plastic surface. Also, it tends to migrate everywhere. I mean by spreading out in a thin layer to cover everything it touches. If it drips onto the circuit board, it may migrate underneath the gray keyboard caps, and onto the carbon pads and ruin them.
What you used may be OK. Check it. For anyone doing this from the scratch, though, do some research on plastic safe silicon grease. Silicon grease is far better for plastic, or metal on plastic interfaces. You will find different viscosity and compositions. On a synth keyboard, you want a thin grease (or at least not really thick) which will not impede the key from bouncing back quickly. But make sure it has good adhesion for metal to plastic applications so it also doesn't just scrape off. If unsure, any common silicon grease is likely better than any lithium grease.
Regarding the carbon keycaps on the keyboard. There are kits you can buy that have a carbon material you can paint onto the black carbon pads on the rubber caps. Results may vary. Being able to buy a proper replacement is by far better, but in case people can't find replacement rubber caps, this is an alternative to consider.
No restoration is perfect, and each job is a learning experience. So please don't take my comments harshly. We all learn this stuff together, which is why you video is so invaluable. Thanks!
I agree, I could potentially find a different, thinner walled rubber tubing, but at that point, I wanted to get it back together, and that's the option I thought of - it actually works (feels) quite good.
The lithium grease I've actually used extensively in plastic applications before on motorcycles, but that is ABS - I'm not sure what the keys on the JD-800 are, but they don't feel like ABS to me. I will watch, but this grease in particular does not liquify at commonly found environmental temperatures, so it should be OK.
I actually did have a tube of Caikot 44 amzn.to/3abKFuy on-hand to do that carbon recoating, but when I first discovered some of the keys were not working well, I tried using it without much success. That's the point at which I went ahead and ordered replacements. I didn't cover the use of the Caikot in the video, because it did not actually work for my problem.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Re: Calkot, ya that is what I feared. I have some, but haven't used it yet. I had heard it has mixed results. I was dealing with vintage computer keyboards and have seen some people have success, but others not. Might be circumstantial. Such is the world of restoration. Luckily, I have always been able to restore such keyboards through cleaning the pads (meaning the pads weren't that far gone).
Good job restored mine 5 years ago pretty much what you did great video
Hi Scott. Just stumbled across this great restoration video. I have a beloved JD800 that has the same "red glue of death" problem. It's had it for years and even though the white key key weights have fallen out, the keys still functioned. Black as well. But in the last year or so, I suddenly got dead keys. Some would play and some would not (black or white keys). They were all still pressing down, not stuck. What was strange was it would depend on which patch. Keys that were dead might sound when switched to a different patch. Thought it was a voice card going bad. Took it to a local shop and the guy said the glue got into the key contacts. Thought that was strange since, as I explained here and to him, that keys would function on a per patch basis. Anyway, he said parts are no longer available and nothing could be done. I even contacted Roland and they basically said the same and that they don't service these synths anymore. The rest of the synth works just fine, and I'm using a controller keyboard to play the JD (all keys sound). I have learned that I could try finding a used Roland U20 somewhere as it uses the same keybed, but would have to find one that also doesn't have the glue issue. Those are hard to find problem or not.
I really hate the fact that my beautiful JD has been relegated to being just a sound module. I don't really have the time or expertise to get into a lengthy restoration project. So, I have to ask, would you be willing to restore just the keybed for me? I am willing to pay for your time and materials (within reason!). I tried finding a way to direct message you here to ask, but there doesn't seem to be one. If there's a better way to contact you, please let me know and let's talk. I'm in the Los Angeles area. Could send it to you and pay for return shipping in addition to the repair costs. It's ok of you can't or don't want to. I'd understand, but I would be forever grateful. Would love for someone who has the knowledge of doing this to help out as I'm afraid I'll ruin something even more. Thank you.
I would suggest talking to one of these people - they do these fixes professionally, and have access to the aftermarket keyboard flex PCB that you're likely going to need: supersynthprojects.com/availability/fitting-partners/
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thank you very much for the referral, Scott. I’ll get in touch with them. Take care.
Hard work for repairing this synth, also to record, edit this video. thank you to share this with us.
WOW, that was very good Scott what a Job to do but it turned out OK and worked in the End :) Nice work
I love the early 90's futurism aesthetic of this thing!
Great video. Love watching something that was junk become better than new. I really want one now. :)
Amazing job Scott, this is fascinating.
It really is a huge job to restore a jd 800.. knowing this I think I'll never get near one. thanks for this excellent video.
It depends, and you don't really know how involved it will be until you open it up.
oh wow, rather you than me. i'll stick with the boutique but well done on keeping an original alive.
I find this restoration work therapeutic, believe it or not! :)
You sound like an engineer. Impressive.
Just recieved my JD800.. and 21 Keys not working.. huff.. I now know why :)) .. some work to be done! Thx 🙏 for your great instruction
I admire your commitment to the instrument. I found one in town for 700 but it got the red goo. You’ve put it in perspective and I think it’s a hard pass lol
Thanks for this video! Made it easy to find screws „C“ on the bottom 👍
Great. Thanks for this clip. I'll try to clean up my JD800 in the next months. Regards from Cologne!
Amazing repair. Even if I got a broken JD-800, I would be too scared to take it apart and fix it.
I did this in 2020 during the lockdown. I used baking soda in warm water. It took a few days but did a perfect job. He should have kept the new silicone tubing in and remove the excess glue from the keys with a knife. It's tedious but its worth it. Otherwise, great job. I like to leave no evidence of the repair being carried out. It should look like it was done in the factory.
your upside down air can trick was INSPIRED.
Hope it helps someone get through the red sticky ooze!
Thank You so much for this video! It helped me a lot to fix the keybed of JD-800 and will help me to fix the keybed of D-70 in the future. I didn't write down the list of exact key placements asi you did but I didn't really see any difference between e.g. CF 2-3 and CF 4-3 and the service manual states only 5 different types of white keys and one type of black key. I hope it is not a problem that I put them back kind of randomly. Thank You once again.
I found a very easy way of getting the rubber nubs of the key contacts to go back in the holes in the steal. Use the back end of the right size drill bit to push it in. They slide in easily with no oil..
Really fantastic job. As far as ı know newer synths do not use lead weights under the keys. Yamaha abondoned it in Fsx keybeds.
They're steel, not lead, and yes, they still do, on semi-weighted keybeds. My Montage has weights glued into the keys.
@@ScottsSynthStuff even though my nord stage 3 waterfall keybed have metal weights under the keys
Excellent video! And what an annoying problem.
Thanks, Floyd! Yes, it unfortunately afflicted all of the Roland semi-weighted synths of that era.
Brilliant video...🎉
The keys remind me of my Roland E-16. Numbered in the same way. And same way to lift them out of the keybed. But I don't think mine has the weights in them. And they have coiled springs, instead of the spring clips you have. Luckily, mine doesn't have the drippy glue. I wouldn't feel safe cleaning them with the chemical solution.
I also remember those rubber tips that you had to squeeze through the holes. Very delicate indeed.
The chemical solution is really nasty. You also have to be very careful not to inhale the powdered form, which is why I was wearing the mask. But it cleans the glue off like nothing else, without harming the plastic keys.
Incredible work, a lot of dedication!
I want to clean the buttons switches of a Korg Radias, and the volume potentiometer and patch change dial, could the DeoxIt Faders work? Or would it be better to replace them? Thank's
Tactile buttons are pretty much sealed, and are usually better to just replace. The potentiometers you can definitely use DeoxIT F5, as for the rotary encoders, they are generally not something you can service. If they are malfunctioning, you need to replace them.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Oh, excellent! One more question, the pots that have a "pause" in each option, which are to select the octave or waveform (commonly in Moog analog synthesizers), are they encoders or potentiometers? thank you
@ usually encoders (on newer synths) or rotary switches (older analog synths)
Whats the white key weight weigh? Cant find replacements. Thinking wheel weights. Thabks for the vid!!
Ahhh, I wish I had thought to write it down at the time! That would have been good information for people looking to replace them. I just weighed one of the weights I DID have, then cut a piece of steel flat bar stock and ground it down until it matched that weight.
I just started the red glue repair. I need to get the contact strips and clean the contacts under them. There is a line of 8 contacts and a line of 4 that don't work correctly so hopefully the deoxit works. Its in very nice cosmetic condition and I only paid 160.00 so the extra money put into it's well worth it.
If you have several in a row that don't work (i.e. 4 in a row, 8 in a row) then the problem is usually the clamp at the side of the keybed that clamps the two ribbon cables together. Roland used cheap plastic to hold them together, and it's not enough. I removed the plastic rivets holding that plastic piece in place, and VERY carefully, without disturbing the ribbon cables, replaced it with a piece of steel covered in foam rubber. I then fastened it in place with screws and nuts. It fixed the problem.
@@ScottsSynthStuff that's exactly what's wrong with it, the second 8 keys in a row and 4 closer to the other end. The 8 made no sound at all and the 4 did but intermittent. So the extra pressure holding the ribbon down worked then without having to do anything else to the contacts. They look good.
Does this fader cleaner also fix the malfunctioning fader like e.g. cutoff frequency works only halfway or is it just a lubricant?
It is a cleaner and a lubricant. If the malfunction is due to dirt or dust in the pot track, then yes, this will usually fix it. If the malfunction is due to a broken area of the pot track in the fader, then the fader will have to be replaced (although SOME can be repaired, but it's not easy).
Regarding the Fader lube - Sometimes initially it can make the faders feel stiff and stuck! However after an hour or two they settle down and become smooth again.
JD 800 is not virtual analog, is a digital synth!
And I love mine.
Yes, it is not a virtual analog synths. It is a samplebased digital synth with a wonderful user interface. Except for the bad choice of glue of course.
Hello @Scott’s Synth Stuff . Good work and nice video . I need to know where to buy the grey rubber keybed please , can you tell me please ?
They're is a seller on eBay called Korg parts master that sells them: www.ebay.com/itm/154469733579
Thanks ! Now I need the pcb flex of the Keybed…where can I buy it ??
@@VANVASSS They haven't been made for a really long time, and the originals basically are no longer available anywhere.
Someone did make an aftermarket replacement, I'm not sure if they are still available or not - check here: supersynthprojects.com/home/roland-keyboard-replacement-pcb/
Hi Scott.
Ive just pulled all the switches off the preset selector board and I'm concerned about damage to the tracks that you mentioned. Could you explain a little about the tracks in question and what you did to repair them please?
The PCB traces are very thin and can pull off and break if heated too much. I would not suggest this repair for someone who does not have a LOT of experience with soldering rework. If a trace is broken, you need to recreate it using wire and solder.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks man. I've already desoldered the switches, so I'm all in :) - just waiting for the hardware now from china - lets see what happens!
Fantastic job👍👍
Hey, thanks again for the great vid @ScottsSynthStuff - quick question: I have regular deoxit D5 (not the fader version). Do you think it safe for the faders? You or anyone have suggestion on that?
It will certainly work, but you won't get the added benefit of the residual lubricant that the DeOxit Fader has.
The jd800 does seem to lend itself to repair more easily than most synths.
Any idea what can be done if some glue dripped on the keybed PCB? Should I just leave it?
I had some glue on the flexible PCB. The PCB is fragile and tough to replace, so I just left it. You could try encapsulating it in something (i.e. spray lacquer), but make sure whatever you use is compatible with the flexible PCB.
@@ScottsSynthStuff thanks Scott! I'm thinking I'll just leave it also, don't want to mess that thin PCB up.
Hey Scott, just wanted to ask in case you know. I got the synth up and working perfectly. I then double checked the battery voltage, put it back in, it asked to re-initialize, I said YES. Then, the keyboard was haywire and certain keys refuse to work, others are super loud. I tried re-initializing several times, but nothing changing. Any suggestions, by any chance?
Hello where did you buy the replacement green key strip? Can you share the Turkish shop too? Mine has too much red glue everywhere and i will probably need to replace it. Thank you for the help.
It's all listed on the comments of the video
I'm currently in the process of restoring a JD800, I notice that some of the buttons are the silicon/rubber type and others are just the solid little buttons. For example, on my JD800 the up/down/left/right arrow buttons are the plain solid type, whereas the patch/bank ones all have the rubbery fellows. I wonder if the plain solid type would work for ALL the buttons and just not bother with the rubbery ones at all?
If you're going to replace them, I'd replace them with the correct switches - you may find you end up getting "phantom" presses on the hard buttons that are supposed to have the silicone buttons. There are sellers on eBay that sell a full replacement switch kit that includes all the different switches, and they aren't expensive.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Yeah totally, not about price. I ordered 50 silicon ones for about £5. I'm wondering about the original choice of tact, why go for one type under the cursors and another under the patch selectors? In essence it's one of two things I guess, either a matter of aesthetic (cursors want to feel more positive and clicky, and others a little more warm and fuzzy?) or it's more about form factor and finding something that fits. I'm a little perplexed to be honest. Anyway, I ordered some rubbery ones from China for a few pounds and they should be here in about a six or seven hundred years.
Thankyou! this is a great video Scott! Started restoring mine at the weekend. How did you remove the glue from the green circuit board strip that runs the length of the keyboard that the rubber contacts and keys sit on (like at @ 08:04 in video)?
I'm a bit scared to try and freeze and scrap it off.
I wouldn't try to freeze that - the plastic circuit strip would become very brittle, and you'd likely end up breaking it. The glue that was in the felt, I tried at first to just replace the areas of felt with glue, but in the end, I just replaced the entire felt strip.
@@ScottsSynthStuff How did you remove the glue from the green plastic circuit strip?
Thank you for showing
Dear Scott, can you please send me the key list of the JD 800. I forgot to make one. 3 Years ago I removed all red glue. But in the moment only to of the contacts work. I don't know the reason for.
It's a good idea to put heatshrink onto the IEC connectors inside the case. Also, use pliers to bend cables into position not cutters! : )
The PSU is an enclosed metal box within the case, there is no movement or cable strain, and nothing that can come anywhere near the IEC connectors. Heatshrink on those wires would do absolutely nothing to increase safety or prevent shorting. If it was exposed in the case, I probably would have done it.
I didn't use cutters to bend those wires - they are a tiny set of pliers - they might look like cutters, but they are actually flat-surfaced miniature pliers!
Sure yeah, I always heat shrink them though, I've shocked myself working on the PSU even though it will be totally enclosed later!@@ScottsSynthStuff
Does anyone know how to remove the red glue from the green plastic circuit strip that runs the length of the keyboard under the keys?
Great,Thank You
I have a JD8000 that just started doing this about 4 months ago. I do have 4 keys that are stuck together (sticky together), but beyond that everything works great and the board looks like new. I think it just need to be opened and have the keys cleaned and weights reglued. However, this repair is CLEARLY beyond my abilities. What do you think this board is worth in the condition it's in. I think part of the reason the glue didn't do the damage of yours is because I stored it on a stand at about a 30 degree angle. ( I favorite playing angle ). Any response would be appreciated. Thanks.
I've no idea - I'd have to see if there are any still on reverb that need the keys worked on. Having the glue problem significantly devalues the synth - it's worth having it done, as I suspect the value increase in the synth will be more than you pay for the repair.
Sir, I have a problem in my Roland D-50. That is display problem. I can see the display is on but no letters showing in the display. And keyboard not working ⚒⚒
Uhh just scored one works , but the keyboard oh god...the glue and the weights are everywhere. Wish me luck! Actually looked ok on pickup but the half hour car ride to home in 30C+ temp made it all fall apart hah...
Heat is really the enemy of that nasty glue!
@@ScottsSynthStuff Little update, the glue was quite easy to get off with NaOh, actually took a few hours not a day like people say everywhere. Could be the extremely hot weather. But note to people who do this also dont be too eager to reassemble too fast, let it soak in detergent after for a longer time as i now have a keyboard that smells literally fishy. Also the flex PCB is intermittent need something to push on it so the keyboard doesnt cut off every now and then.
hello
I would like to ask a question...
Could the chemical you used to remove the glue be used to remove the epoxy from vintage chips without damaging their components?
For example, the chips responsible for the voices of the Roland Juno-106..
Highly unlikely. It's extremely caustic, and would etch and corrode those chips very quickly.
I appreciate your prompt response.
I managed to remove the glue by submerging the piece in boiled water for 10 minutes and it works but you have to be careful when removing the epoxy
Really amazing video, thanks so much for making it, the detail you go into really helps. Sometimes those forum posts just can't match seeing a video of the process!
A question for you though: do you have any recommendations for non-chemical-based solutions for the red glue? Or perhaps a less-strong chemical? Not sure my girlfriend would appreciate a bucket of keys soaking in sodium hydroxide in my tiny apartment 😅
I've read of some people using other solutions, but none work as well or quickly as the sodium hydroxide. Perhaps there's a weekend she's going away soon, and you might have the bucket in the bathtub (with the exhaust fan going)? :)
@@ScottsSynthStuff 😆
thanks for the reply! Yeah, might have to just figure out a way to go with the sodium hydroxide approach.
Great Video. One question, what are these? 10:01 , between the rubber contact strip and the buffer posts and are they important ?
They are diodes, and are part of the keyboard matrix. They are potted in epoxy on the flexible PCB, and are very important - the keybed won't work correctly without them.
Thanks so much for your video. My JD-800 was the first thing I ever bought with my first ever real paycheck in 1994.* Gutted that it’s glued up. I may have trashed my Flex PCB by testing acetone on it, then using NaOH, which got through a pinhole somewhere. Should have just stuck with the NaOH. I’ve been dripping it into the felt to see if that just removed the glue there too. * I as a toddler I put clothes pegs/pins all around the table and played “Cars” on them…
Hi Scott.Thanks for the great video. Just opened up my JD and looks like the glue has dripped onto the cicuit board, in some cases onto a diode. Is there a safe way to get rid of the glue with damaging the cirtcuit board and diodes ?
@@ScottsSynthStuff
WITHOUT doing damage🙂
Hello, I have a JD800 and there is a problem with the keyboard, I don't want to make a bigger mess, would you be willing to repair it?
Thanks for the video. I did. think for 1M NaOH you need 40g per 1L, which would be 200g in 5L. Why did you use 250g? That makes it a stronger base.
That was the recommended strength based on the many people who have done this before.
@@ScottsSynthStuff It makes sense. I used 40g per 1L and had a few keys that needed to be repeated multiple times they were glued so well to the bottom.
I just seriously caution anyone using this stuff to be extremely EXTREMELY careful - people can go blind, have major burns (you won't feel it until hours later, so just a quick rinse is not sufficient), and people have died from this stuff. Do NOT skip out on the PPE here. Read up on the toxicology reports before using it so you know what you're getting into.
Awesome thanks so much!
WOW!....Great job and video! Tremendous effort on both accounts! So what background is your electronics experience from as it seams a whole lot farther than a normal hobbyist and your tools are a bit more than you would need for motorcycle repair? This video has got me a bit motivated...years ago I bought a Roland D10 for $25 at a pawn shop because it had 8 dead keys. I believe its time to fix them over the winter.
I've done electronics design for decades as a hobby, everything from audio to microprocessors, so yeah - I have a bit more experience than most. :) Have a look at this video for one of my projects: ruclips.net/video/CDjntt-S7xQ/видео.html
@@ScottsSynthStuff Well that explains a lot .Much respect to your inventiveness and honed abilities. People like you i have found are in short supply and I thank you for your contributions! BTW I grew up with a Dad who was steep in electronics and more. He worked for Cambridge instruments installing laser microscopes and the machines that made microchips in the 80's and 90's for the northeastern USA. So yeah, the first law I ever knew was "ohms" lol
Thank you may Yahweh bless you and this channel
I’m surprised the unit only had mechanical problems (aside from the additional resistor). The keyboard & switches were a nightmare.
They put two holes in case one of the base is damaged so that you can use the spare/second hole with unspoiled screwing base.
Rolands and Korgs commonly have that connection style then.
I suspected that was the case, and there were a few with the threads a big munged where I used the other one.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Yes. I have encountered with that too. People sometimes try and put bigger screws so the base is deformed :(
Hi Scott, thanks for this amazing resource! It's probably my most watched youtube video at the moment 🙂 I have a question regarding the numbers of the keys: Does it make a difference where the keys with the specific numbers go or can they be interchanged? Could you provide your list of keys or is it different for each instrument?
As long as it is the correct key (F goes in the F slot, etc) it doesn't matter. The number is just how they identify which injection mold the key came from at the factory, so an F1, F2, F3 all work just fine for an F. They needed to know at the factory if all of a sudden they start seeing defects in F keys, which of the F key molds was responsible for the defects. Makes no difference to us. :)
did you do this for yourself? I cant imagine this being affordable
Yes, I did it to keep the synth.
That soldering job on that IEC is kind of dangerous don't you think?
That red goo looks nasty... Apparently they used different stuff in the older D-50? That looks perfect by me...
I think it is a very interesting synth, with all the hardware controls on it, the patches don't make me too enthusiastic though... I guess I should try once one and see what I get out of it before buying one. At least a good point to look for one that had its keybed replaced...
U R a saint....
Got my JD-800, and the left-hand panel was cracked all to hell. I think it affected the volume slider, as it makes no sound.
Those plastic end cheeks were unfortunate, they take the brunt of the impact when the synth gets hit or dropped on the side, and they do crack.
You'd have to open it up and do some measurements to be sure that the volume control is the issue however.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Yeah it sucks. I've been calling folks around my area but no one wants to work on a synth from the 90's
@Scott's Synth Stuff Any chance I could mail it to you? You seem to know quite a bit about the JD-800, so I was wondering if I could send it to you. Trying to exhaust all my options at this point.
@@Lithuania8634 I'd suggest Syntaur - they do this sort of thing I believe, and can definitely help out!
I restored a JD-800. Mainly the keyobard red glue repair. I find that the JD-800 is very unreliable in multimode though MIDI. Sounds play on the wrong channels sometimes. Especially problems with parts 3, 4 and 5. Drums are 100% reliable though. Its also relaible in Multi without MIDI pluggd in. Anyone else had issues? I can't find anything online about these issues on this old synth. I wonder if I have weird CPU fault.
I rarely use mine in multi mode, as you lose so much of the FX which really are part of the sounds in this synth. That said, the MIDI in the JD-800 is definitely...unstable. I have a problem with mine where if you send it transport control data too quickly, the JD-800 just stops responding to MIDI altogether: gearspace.com/board/music-computers/1384116-jd-800-midi-shuts-up.html
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks. I'm just a beginner with MIDI control and using Cakewalk free software to try to get it working. I managed to get 6 part multi working in the end. I've still seen it refuse to allow you change the patch on the part. I found that flicking it to single mode and back to multi again recovers that. The actual problem is probably me with inexperienced menu control...
@@simonmartin4599 It's not you - it's the synth. The problem I found with the sound engine dying in single mode is also fixed by switching to multi mode and back to single again. Firmware bugs that will never be fixed. :)
You should’ve used a whit bed sheet.. carpet is a bad idea.. lose screws. Use heat to loosen the glue to avoid damage
I normally have a large workspace to disassemble synths on camera....but the JD-800 was just too big to fit! I actually did try a white sheet underneath originally, but it was blowing out the camera's exposure and making the overall image too dark, so I switched to a dark rug.
Just fyi, that's really not an unusual power inlet. It's an IEC C18 inlet (which uses an IEC C17 cable) which is basically a 2 pin version of the IEC C14 inlet (which uses an IEC C13 cable) that most grounded electronics use. A lot of hi-fi stereo equipment use the 2-prong IEC C17/C18 to avoid ground looping.
Correct...but those are FAR less common nowadays than the IEC C13/C14 that is pretty much everywhere. If you had a C17 go bad on the road, your chances of finding a replacement quickly are pretty much nil. But C13's can be cribbed from any number of devices. That was the reason I replaced it.
cut the sharp point from a toothpick to put your keycontacts back in , did it a million times myself on different keyboards. on the other side there is a like a little hole, with a small press they go in very easy
I tried it - I ended up punching through the rubber!
Very helpful and informative. The background noise is intrusive nad completley unnecessary!
Good job. That glue looks horendous. I wonder who approved that during manufacturing....
I am quite sure they had no idea that would happen...
This is a kind of the wavetable synthesizer.
How much to restore mine?
Ive restored mine by Roland Benelux for less then 400 euro's .... had half of the notes not working , all push buttons stuck ... fades we're ok
Did this in 2021 and it is as good as new
Opens it up sees its signed by Eric Persing
hot air gun would have helped?
✌️
I think I am going to remove my keybed and leave it upside down in warm garage for about a week… when it’s around 80 degrees outside
I had JD800 and the keyboard is the worst Roland has ever made, its good when it works but too many issues with dust and keys not triggering and red glue crap. I got tired of fixing it all the time so I sold it. Its too much work lol... but , Im getting another one soon and it needs alot of work... so here we go, its gonna suck lol.
weird how such gem videos get few views while an idiot doing meaningless stuff gets millions....maybe just shows how 'clever' some people are...bored and lazy....knowledge is power they say.....wish they knew as well....sad world
Looks same keybed of U20.
I have three of these with red glue if you'd like to buy them,,, fix them and sell them
Is this really Rabbit in the Moon?
I can fix them for you. I just did mine. I’m in Southern California.
@@djleadone it is,, and I already sold em off
@@djleadone that would have been amazing...
@@RabbitintheMoon Yeah, anytime you need a tech, I work on everything from Roland to Rane, Pioneer, synths and computers too. Thanks for all the great memories and god speed! 🙌🏽