The choke plate is removable by inserting a thin blade screw between the shaft and the the plate on the rear side, then use a drift punch to push it out towards the top. Do this after you have removed the base plate. to re-install reverse the aforementioned procedure. Larry @All American Carburetors.
It's nice you leave the mistakes in cause now everyone that goes to do this will remember not to do what that guy did, lol. I never worked on a holley but I have messed with the old q-jet on the gm cars. Nice to see the walk through cause I currently have a edlebroc on my oldsmobile but thinking bout switching to holley
Locksmiths have a rubber mat they work on it has different small compartments to catch the little parts from the locks, you may look into getting one of those
Thank you for these video's on tearing down and rebuilding the Holley. You explain things very well without a bunch of unnecessary detail. Like walking a buddy through it. I'm 70 and haven't done a four barrel in a long time. You helped me get my '52 Chevy pickup with a 327 going GOOD again! Thanks!!
Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Gunner Eddie i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Gunner Eddie DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED! Just got access to my IG login within roughly 40 minutes by using the site. Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
Racers trick is if you have to do jetting changes spray PAM on the blue gaskets before installing them. They wont stick or tear when taking them off when reusing them. I'm sick and youtube crusing. Nice video!
When doing a DIY rebuild ensure all bleeds in the air horn Primary and Secondary side are sprayed with carb cleaner and blow air through them to make sure you have removed any "SMUTZ" that may block the bleeds or the passages If not you will have idle and or high speed issues. Larry @All American Carburetors
LOL ! I am not perfect either. You caught it and that`s a good thing. I never knew that there are cork O rings for mixture screws on Hollys . Went out to my spares box ant there they are. My factory manual even shows em . Mus have been lucky all these years not using them.
Holley used to sell different metering plates for the secondary side of the carb, but I don't know if they still sell them ? The aftermarket plate with removable jets are nice !!! And I think there's a cover for the secondary side vacuum chamber that has a removable cover to allow changing the spring without removing the secondary housing thing, i remember the first Holley i bought back in 79 at Midwest auto specialties in Cleveland Ohio, Lorain rd. $ 89.00 bucks brand new. All the best to you and yours Sir.
Thanks for the tutorial! I used it to rebuild a 1850-3- hoping it works well now. One thing i found is that a SQ1 square bit works great on those odd ball screws under the rear bowl. Also, isn't there supposed to be a gasket between the secondary actuator and the carb body? Mine had a small round cork gasket under there but i couldn't find one in the kit. I just used one of those small extra rubber o-rings- hopefully that works :)
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I am finishing rebuilding my Holley carb 4160 list 3310-3. During disassembly I discovered the secondary vacuum diaphragm was missing the check ball. My rebuild kit has two check balls of different sizes. Can you tell me the diameter of the check ball shown in your video? Thanks in advance, Jimbo.
The carb rebuilder forgot to install the small round cork gasket between the vacuum secondary assembly and the carb block. Vacuum leak will result and no good secondary butterfly opening will occur. You have to remember that tiny gasket.
Rebuild kit I got only had 2 cork gaskets for idle screws. Think they are o rings now, least I hope so cause that's all I have in kit from holley for vac secondary and electric choke. Both same size
1hello how are you, you forgot to put the seal on the second stage valve hole, would you have any video with this 1850 s carburetor, making the adjustment of the float etc?
Nice video man, I have a 1 year old holley carb but some dust got into it because of the stupid body shop while sanding the car for paint. They left the carb top open. I start the car for 5 seconds but it won’t start now. Fuel is overflowing and the float level is always full even with adjusting it. Please help!
Pop the bowls and set the floats dry. I have at times dropped the float out of the screw and had to do that. Try that first. Here is my email in case that isn't it: jford@autorestomod.com
Hey. I did the unthinkable and pulled the plate on the bottom (the one with some serious plumbing) and a BB fell out. I didn’t see where it came from. The kit came with a new one. Where the heck does it go? Is there a pic somewhere that I can go by?
You must have a Holley that Ford used. Those carburetors have limiting caps on them. This carburetor is the 4180 and the metering blocks are tamper proof. You could modify the metering block with one off of a 4150, but at that point I might would punt and put a new carb on.
@@AutoRestoMod the reason i asked, and should have gave you a little more ifo is that with the new ones the is a gasket type grommit that goes in the bowl instead of the o ring....can i usr the grommits in the old models instead of the o ring?
Did you use a new accelerator pump? The cover may have some old gasket still attached. Clean the mating surface and tighten the 4 screws in a X pattern evenly. Don't forget the spring.
HA! Very observant! And well, no, at the time I did not. So that is how easily that can happen. Keep in mind that I am trying to: Talk to you, direct a crew to shoot the video, think about what is next in the procedure...Wonder I can do this stuff at all and not sound like a moe ron.
Hey Dude, I have a 4152 EG carburetor off a 1988 Dump Truck with a 366 cu in Chevy Truck Motor. I am one of those obnoxious millennials who is a rookie regarding carbs. I have the carb off the truck. Anyway, my question is: The two primary butterflies do not move when you rotate the throttle shaft. But if you engage the choke by manually pulling the linkage, then the butterflies rotate with the shaft. Why is that?
Had a general question about a symptom i was having, their response was super helpful, led me in the right direction. Great vids guys!
Thank you! I just rebuilt my first carburetor for my 62 galaxie, I really appreciate such a simple tutorial!
The choke plate is removable by inserting a thin blade screw between the shaft and the the plate on the rear side, then use a drift punch to push it out towards the top. Do this after you have removed the base plate. to re-install reverse the aforementioned procedure. Larry @All American Carburetors.
It's nice you leave the mistakes in cause now everyone that goes to do this will remember not to do what that guy did, lol. I never worked on a holley but I have messed with the old q-jet on the gm cars. Nice to see the walk through cause I currently have a edlebroc on my oldsmobile but thinking bout switching to holley
Locksmiths have a rubber mat they work on it has different small compartments to catch the little parts from the locks, you may look into getting one of those
Thank you for these video's on tearing down and rebuilding the Holley. You explain things very well without a bunch of unnecessary detail. Like walking a buddy through it. I'm 70 and haven't done a four barrel in a long time. You helped me get my '52 Chevy pickup with a 327 going GOOD again! Thanks!!
Sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Marshall Anson instablaster ;)
@Gunner Eddie i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Gunner Eddie DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED! Just got access to my IG login within roughly 40 minutes by using the site.
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Marshall Anson you are welcome :)
I love your videos dude!
hey thanks for making this ! all the other stuff on the web I could find was about the newer style 1850's with the new needle and seats!
Glad we could help
Racers trick is if you have to do jetting changes spray PAM on the blue gaskets before installing them. They wont stick or tear when taking them off when reusing them. I'm sick and youtube crusing. Nice video!
Mike. Thanks for that one! I had forgotten the trick! See we help each other!
Enjoyed the vid.
Great video thank you
that helps a lot, thanks buddy
Super helpful thanks
When doing a DIY rebuild ensure all bleeds in the air horn Primary and Secondary side are sprayed with carb cleaner and blow air through them to make sure you have removed any "SMUTZ" that may block the bleeds or the passages If not you will have idle and or high speed issues. Larry @All American Carburetors
LOL ! I am not perfect either. You caught it and that`s a good thing. I never knew that there are cork O rings for mixture screws on Hollys . Went out to my spares box ant there they are. My factory manual even shows em . Mus have been lucky all these years not using them.
Holley used to sell different metering plates for the secondary side of the carb, but I don't know if they still sell them ? The aftermarket plate with removable jets are nice !!! And I think there's a cover for the secondary side vacuum chamber that has a removable cover to allow changing the spring without removing the secondary housing thing, i remember the first Holley i bought back in 79 at Midwest auto specialties in Cleveland Ohio, Lorain rd. $ 89.00 bucks brand new. All the best to you and yours Sir.
Good thoughts! Thanks for the kind words
Thx!!
Thanks for the tutorial! I used it to rebuild a 1850-3- hoping it works well now. One thing i found is that a SQ1 square bit works great on those odd ball screws under the rear bowl. Also, isn't there supposed to be a gasket between the secondary actuator and the carb body? Mine had a small round cork gasket under there but i couldn't find one in the kit. I just used one of those small extra rubber o-rings- hopefully that works :)
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I am finishing rebuilding my Holley carb 4160 list 3310-3. During disassembly I discovered the secondary vacuum diaphragm was missing the check ball. My rebuild kit has two check balls of different sizes. Can you tell me the diameter of the check ball shown in your video? Thanks in advance, Jimbo.
Thank you so much for this, I’ve just bought a 1983 mustang gt 5.0 scored a good deal $1500 needing new carburetor gasket.
Nice! The Fox Mustangs are really coming up in value.
Thanks for a good instructional video. @13:23 I was hoping that you would show us a closer look at the float and see what "level" actually is.
The camera focus was too soft on our close up camera to use. It should just dribble out if you nudge the car.
The part at 7:50 is different than mine. Mine had various small ball bearing in the center.
The carb rebuilder forgot to install the small round cork gasket between the vacuum secondary assembly and the carb block. Vacuum leak will result and no good secondary butterfly opening will occur. You have to remember that tiny gasket.
Rebuild kit I got only had 2 cork gaskets for idle screws. Think they are o rings now, least I hope so cause that's all I have in kit from holley for vac secondary and electric choke. Both same size
1hello how are you, you forgot to put the seal on the second stage valve hole, would you have any video with this 1850 s carburetor, making the adjustment of the float etc?
Just type in Holley Autorestomod in the search.
Not a "jet" but a needle. Not a "gasket" but a seal. GeeZuz. Ultrasonic works and soda blasting too. I just did one. Cleaned up well.
I stand I stand corrected. You misspelled either Jesus or Zeus...since we're being pedantic.
Nice video man, I have a 1 year old holley carb but some dust got into it because of the stupid body shop while sanding the car for paint. They left the carb top open. I start the car for 5 seconds but it won’t start now. Fuel is overflowing and the float level is always full even with adjusting it.
Please help!
Pop the bowls and set the floats dry. I have at times dropped the float out of the screw and had to do that. Try that first. Here is my email in case that isn't it: jford@autorestomod.com
Why did you not show the secondary metering plate assembly that has a metal plate between it and the main carburetor body with gaskets between each?
Good question. And I'm not sure why I didn't.
The orange rubber is the one way valve for the accelerator pump
Sometimes, I have sometimers and can't remember part names.
600 holly carburetor rebuild
Jet Needles
Have you done an 1850-03 Holley I haven’t found any videos on it and I haven’t found any kit I feel comfortable buying to rebuild it got any tips?
MIke's Carburetors carries a ton of stuff for Holley and they can help you get the best one for your needs. www.carburetor-parts.com/
Hey. I did the unthinkable and pulled the plate on the bottom (the one with some serious plumbing) and a BB fell out. I didn’t see where it came from. The kit came with a new one. Where the heck does it go? Is there a pic somewhere that I can go by?
Go out on the Internet and look up exploded view for the 1850 Holley. This will let you know where the checkball goes
What do u do if thefloat valves are not adjustable or removeable? Mine has a cap over it instead of the adjuster.
You must have a Holley that Ford used. Those carburetors have limiting caps on them. This carburetor is the 4180 and the metering blocks are tamper proof. You could modify the metering block with one off of a 4150, but at that point I might would punt and put a new carb on.
@@AutoRestoMod ok thanx
On the old models....like the 1850-1, do i have to use the o rings for the cross tube?
Yes. They will leak otherwise.
@@AutoRestoMod the reason i asked, and should have gave you a little more ifo is that with the new ones the is a gasket type grommit that goes in the bowl instead of the o ring....can i usr the grommits in the old models instead of the o ring?
What's the little metal ball inside the vacuum secondary diaphragm for? Mine hit the floor and I never found it. Can I run it without the ball
You do need the ball for the secondary to operate properly.
@@AutoRestoMod okay thanks
It's a "ball check valve". Secondary vacuum canister? The carb will work without it but not smooth. Thanks
Any ideas as to why, after a rebuild, my accelerator pump would be leaking fuel? I put the new gaskets on from the kit but it's still leaking.
Did you use a new accelerator pump? The cover may have some old gasket still attached. Clean the mating surface and tighten the 4 screws in a X pattern evenly. Don't forget the spring.
@@davidgoodwin658 took it back apart and cleaned it all up again. For some reason it worked the second time. Thank you 😁
Should have put a quick-change top on the vac secondary housing...
That is a great idea, but I find that 90 percent of the time you do not need a spring change.
Is there a little ball bearing in a secondary? I have one and was just checking
Yes there is.
@@AutoRestoMod Ok thank you so much. I Wounder how that works?
Lol. At 18:40 explains why not to do this. 19:00. Does it. I was like did he not see that? Lol you guys are too much
HA! Very observant! And well, no, at the time I did not. So that is how easily that can happen. Keep in mind that I am trying to: Talk to you, direct a crew to shoot the video, think about what is next in the procedure...Wonder I can do this stuff at all and not sound like a moe ron.
I came here for this comment
Hey Dude,
I have a 4152 EG carburetor off a 1988 Dump Truck with a 366 cu in Chevy Truck Motor.
I am one of those obnoxious millennials who is a rookie regarding carbs.
I have the carb off the truck.
Anyway, my question is: The two primary butterflies do not move when you rotate the throttle shaft. But if you engage the choke by manually pulling the linkage, then the butterflies rotate with the shaft. Why is that?
Honestly, I couldn't tell you.
Idle jets?? I believe they are called idle mixture screws. those cork gaskets need to be installed just like you showed.
Well David, sometimes I say things wrong.
it was super painful to watch you assemble the last part of the carb knowing you misplaced the accelerator pump rod.
Darn it....missed first by 17 minutes
Those aren't jets, they are needle valves that adjust the air mixture.
We know the difference between fuel jets and air/fuel mixture screws.
I like working on a Level work bench, just saying 🙄
We finally got a good solid work surface with our tool box from Harbor Freight.
You missed the ball valve in vac sec diaphragm
Yes, we didn't show that. Good catch!
What ball? does it come in the kits?
'Schmutz'
I hate schmutz.
Me too.
The choke plate taps out quite easily from the under side of the carb.
Thanks for that