Thanks for another great video, Rick. I never would have known how this was done if weren't for you, especially the spinning. Watching it take shape is so satisfying. I'd really love to see the spinning from an overhead shot. Would you consider doing that in the future? Who would have thought that I'd get hooked on watching a guy restore carriage lamps?Thanks so much for sharing your craft. Looking forward to the next one. Say 'hi' to Dave and thank him for talking you into doing your own channel for me, will you? Be well!
you mean the red shirt? it's padded to help alleviate the pressure of the tool on the chest, the forces needed to spin that metal are enough to give bruises
What a pleasant surprise to have found your site and your wonderful restoration work. Engels Coach drove me here and I am very grateful to have found another artisan as skilled as Dave. Congratulations all the way from Portugal.
@@TheLuminaryShoppe I know nothing about this type of work and just enough about metal spinning to understand it's no where near as easy as it looks. But a few times in this video I thought Dave (Engles Coach) had cloned himself into a lamp rebuilder. And that's the highest praise I can give. Actual craftsmanship of this caliber always gets a subscription.
When spinning up sheet metal, the tool to form the metal to, is called a mandrel, not a chuck. I made a dozen of various shapes of mandrels for pewter spinning about 25 years ago. Most of the reproduction civil war (black powder era) pewter ware pieces made in the USA, are still made on the mandrels I created. Love your work and your channel. Also a fan of Dave.
As others have said watching you turn those flat copper blanks into a 3D shape is so interesting. I was wondering how the rim was made and now I know. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skills and abilities with us. Looking forward to the next video.
Must be SO satisfying seeing the metal almost flowing like that. Wonderful control Rick and another really entertaining video. Can hardly wait for the next instalment.
About the only time we might know what the era of these lamps was like is in when the power goes out because how dark the night truly is almost surreal even if it's just a handful of blocks your in. One might of seen these on a coach plying the streets around Paris who's street lamps gave the city its nickname and its side glasses illuminating more questionable addresses that none would admit to during daylight. Lamps as artwork lasted into the early period where early automobiles took over the roads that horses traveled just a generation before and the last vestiges of that form went away when lights no longer sat in front of a grill like lighthouses instead of becoming part of it by the late 1930s.
I preheat the glass so the shock isn't too severe and I try to keep the flame on the metal parts which shield the glass from the worst part of the temperature shock. Also I do not place the hot glass on a metal bench top which I regrettably have found out will cause a temperature shock and crack the glass.
I enjoy viewing your videos and the skill which you demonstrate in these restorations. Do you generally find that when you are working on pairs of lamps, that the parts are interchangeable, or do you have to keep the parts separate for each lamp?
If the lamps have not been "worked on" by someone in the past the parts are usually interchangeable except when they are mirror images of each other, one for the near side lamp and one for the off side lamp. If the lamps have been worked on they often have changed something and I'm better off keeping track of which parts came from where. Also bent glass is often not perfectly uniform and it is best to put it back where it came from. Thanks for your question.
The correct name is Mühlbacher, a famous carriage builder. The fancy tops belong on the ends of a curtain rail, certainly not on those lamps. I think the red lights are a later addition too.
You are absolutely correct on the spelling, I left out the first "h" in Muhlbacher. Thanks for bringing it to my attention, I have fixed it. The top finials however, are original to these lamps as well as the red lights on the rear. Thanks for your comments.
The copper flanges were not necessarily incorrect. They had been silver plated probably along with the brass parts as there would have been only one color of bright metal when they were new. I replaced the flanges because they were too damaged to straighten and the owner wanted the bright metal in brass.
Thanks for another great video, Rick. I never would have known how this was done if weren't for you, especially the spinning. Watching it take shape is so satisfying. I'd really love to see the spinning from an overhead shot. Would you consider doing that in the future? Who would have thought that I'd get hooked on watching a guy restore carriage lamps?Thanks so much for sharing your craft. Looking forward to the next one. Say 'hi' to Dave and thank him for talking you into doing your own channel for me, will you? Be well!
Little chilly in the shop? Fascinating to watch the flange creation. I admire the skill and talent
you mean the red shirt? it's padded to help alleviate the pressure of the tool on the chest, the forces needed to spin that metal are enough to give bruises
Really cool seeing the metal blank going from 2d to 3D. I made my wife watch.
Thanks for sharing with us, those are awesome lamps.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
What a pleasant surprise to have found your site and your wonderful restoration work. Engels Coach drove me here and I am very grateful to have found another artisan as skilled as Dave. Congratulations all the way from Portugal.
Thanks and welcome, Dave's work is awesome!
@@TheLuminaryShoppe I know nothing about this type of work and just enough about metal spinning to understand it's no where near as easy as it looks. But a few times in this video I thought Dave (Engles Coach) had cloned himself into a lamp rebuilder. And that's the highest praise I can give. Actual craftsmanship of this caliber always gets a subscription.
These are beautiful lamps
When spinning up sheet metal, the tool to form the metal to, is called a mandrel, not a chuck.
I made a dozen of various shapes of mandrels for pewter spinning about 25 years ago.
Most of the reproduction civil war (black powder era) pewter ware pieces made in the USA,
are still made on the mandrels I created.
Love your work and your channel. Also a fan of Dave.
Rick, another display of your wonderful talents! Keep up the great work! I'm looking forward to the finished restoration.
Thanks Phil!
I'm constantly amazed at the quiet confidence when soldering/desoldering the bezels holding that rare curved glass.
As others have said watching you turn those flat copper blanks into a 3D shape is so interesting. I was wondering how the rim was made and now I know. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skills and abilities with us. Looking forward to the next video.
Must be SO satisfying seeing the metal almost flowing like that. Wonderful control Rick and another really entertaining video. Can hardly wait for the next instalment.
The first time it worked many years ago was amazing! Thanks for your comment.
Love the m/c that trims square sheet to circular.Sooo easy. Great job Rick!
A true craftsman!
Really enjoy your videos, especially the metal spinning!
More spinning to come.
I am always fascinated at how sturdy yet fragile these pieces are. it's satisfying to see an artisan work their craft. Nice videos.
Thank you very much!
Those lamps are so cool, they remind me of the autolyte lamps on the Ford model A. Just really awesome
Excellent skill. Brilliantly executed, hats off. Ty
Thanks!
Thanks Rick
About the only time we might know what the era of these lamps was like is in when the power goes out because how dark the night truly is almost surreal even if it's just a handful of blocks your in. One might of seen these on a coach plying the streets around Paris who's street lamps gave the city its nickname and its side glasses illuminating more questionable addresses that none would admit to during daylight. Lamps as artwork lasted into the early period where early automobiles took over the roads that horses traveled just a generation before and the last vestiges of that form went away when lights no longer sat in front of a grill like lighthouses instead of becoming part of it by the late 1930s.
I appreciate the simplicity of the tools. Why go out and buy a bunch of spring clips, when clothes pins will do?
The clothes pins actually work better in some cases.
Thanks for sharing!
Excelent job, congratulations. Regars from Argentina
Rick!! I have the same hat!!! Great video by the way.
Warm hats!
I was wonder where and how you learned the techniques of spinning? I’m knew to your change after finding it next to Engles Coach Videos.
Muhlbacher Still existed in 1906 as they were one of the main suppilers of framing for Rolls Royce, Silver Ghost. Nothing found since that date
U as many on utube have found the ZEN OF HAPPINESS..
I am amazed the the glass did not crack or shatter from the heating. What is your secret?
I preheat the glass so the shock isn't too severe and I try to keep the flame on the metal parts which shield the glass from the worst part of the temperature shock. Also I do not place the hot glass on a metal bench top which I regrettably have found out will cause a temperature shock and crack the glass.
I enjoy viewing your videos and the skill which you demonstrate in these restorations. Do you generally find that when you are working on pairs of lamps, that the parts are interchangeable, or do you have to keep the parts separate for each lamp?
If the lamps have not been "worked on" by someone in the past the parts are usually interchangeable except when they are mirror images of each other, one for the near side lamp and one for the off side lamp. If the lamps have been worked on they often have changed something and I'm better off keeping track of which parts came from where. Also bent glass is often not perfectly uniform and it is best to put it back where it came from. Thanks for your question.
How are you protecting yourself from the lead fumes ?
The correct name is Mühlbacher, a famous carriage builder.
The fancy tops belong on the ends of a curtain rail, certainly not on those lamps.
I think the red lights are a later addition too.
You are absolutely correct on the spelling, I left out the first "h" in Muhlbacher. Thanks for bringing it to my attention, I have fixed it. The top finials however, are original to these lamps as well as the red lights on the rear. Thanks for your comments.
Do you ever have to anneal the work mid stream in the process?
Does the work ever work harden and crack, thus causing you to start over?
JIM
Yes, annealing the shell mid process is often necessary
depending on how much the metal has to be moved.
So did you say that the copper rings were an earlier repair and incorrect?
JIM
The copper flanges were not necessarily incorrect. They had been silver plated probably along with the brass parts as there would have been only one color of bright metal when they were new. I replaced the flanges because they were too damaged to straighten and the owner wanted the bright metal in brass.
Metal spinning sure is a neat thing to see. I don't think my lathe runs fast enough to try it.
You don't need super speeds to spin metals, so don't let that stop you trying. Watch a few videos, make a few tools and have a go.
I spin from 545 to 800 rpm, the larger the piece the slower the rpm.
Hiya Rick
What type of soldier do you use and flux/cleaner do you use SIR...?
40/60 tin/lead and Stay Klean flux.
@@TheLuminaryShoppe I’m curious about the choice of solder since I do a fair bit of soldering myself (electronics tech), as I use 63/37.
Great vids just saying goodbye hatred too much for me..
I hope you are not leaving, I have enjoyed your comments.
Imagine solder up to a 140 yrs old when remelted doesn't look a day old..I should b lucky.
What do you use as a lubricant for the spinning ?
Either a paraffin wax or beeswax can be used.
I use Castile bar soap.
I have seen a very few videos on You Tube posted by metal spinners, the ones that I have seen from the UK also use hard soap.
Craftsman