Thank you for the tutorial. It's been a great benefit as far as deciding whether to do the brakes on a Case 590 myself. I'm not quite sure if I need a brake job since altho they groan when applied, they are still effective and stop the machine. But if I need to r&r them, that machine will be going to a Miami dealership! Again, I'm grateful for the work you've done to share your knowledge.
There were times that frustration was abound. It was difficult and a big job to take on but now that I is done and is still in good order after two years, well worth overcoming all the problems that had to be solved along the way. And, I saved several thousand dollars and not to mention, increased my arsenal of tools! Win Win Baby!
Thanks for the video... I bought a '96 410D, and the brakes chatter a bit, I'm thinking I will need to do this job before too long - not really looking forward to it...! But your video has been a big help, thanks again!
Nice job, the "gaskets" located in the brake cylinders are actually back up rings that prevent oring extrusion. Notice they are on the non pressure side of the oring groove. I have the 410D. Great video Thanks
+Bradford Lunt Thanks for commenting. I hope to never have to do that job on that machine again. So far the brakes are doing great after 6 months of use.
Thank you.... I clearly understand how large of a job this is. I have a 924G that is losing hydraulic fluid from the rear end. the seals for the pistons have blown so I have to do something quick.
If those pistons are anywhere close to the same place that the one are in this old 510, then you have some digging to get in there. It is not a fun job because once you start, there is not going back but broken down into small sections, it isn't an impossible job, just tough.
On the 510, the hydraulic fluid and the brake fluid are one in the same. Once the hydraulic pump is running, it will operate the pistons that apply the break pad squeeze on the disc that are in the transaxle.
Thanks. I just repacked a loader boom cylinder and will be doing a tutorial on repacking a stabilizer cylinder next. But since it doesn't leak that bad, I am going to get some work out of it first.
Thanks for the video. I've got a new holland 555e with grinding brakes. the 555e has brake discs like the discs in an auto transmission, but the amount of work to get to them is prob about the same. Why the multiple videos? I think there was only about 10 min of footage.
I broke it into different videos because of how extensive the the job was and the fact it took me a long time to complete. 10 Mins? I did 8 parts for this one if you didn't see all of them. Or are you saying I could have condensed all eight in one 10 minute of video to just "hurry it up already"
I have the manual and will check if that is even needed on this machine (different machines might need it) . The pistons that pushed the pads into the disk to apply the breaks were in the same housing as the fluid reservoir/diff case. When i would start the machine, I would press the break petal and feel the hydraulics kick in and stiffen the petal.
The 310A looks like a very similar machine to the 510 I worked on in the video. I think the transaxle it very similar so I think dismantling would be very similar, meaning (NOT EASY). The axle it bolted to the cab/chassis. So support of the chassis and the differential/axle is needed. Be safe, those suckers are heavy and some serious impact wrenches are needed to get them loose.
1 DIY Guy I’ve got the bolts out except one inner cab mount that needs to be cut off pulled the diff cover to check for damage confirmed right side axle housing needs to come off found at least one broken planetary gear And pinion gear and a bunch of what looks like big needle bearings
One also got the loader frame that runs beneath the axle housing and replaces your plate for the bolts which may cause restriction of transaxle side of housing to passbook through I’ll figure out more once I can get the cab mount space from on top of the axle removed
What caused the axle break? Did the differential lock up during a turn? I have a foot lever that can activate and deactivate my differential lock. I once had it locked and turned and heard popping and instantly stopped and realized the lock was on. Thought that if someone kept going it would cause some serious damage to an axle, the differential or pinion gears. (Or more)
1 DIY Guy the snap ring was broken that holds the planetary gear pins in the proper location in the carrier looks like it was broken for a while as there was two sets of wear marks on the ring and pieces that caused the one pin and gear set to be riding only on the outside pin boss. This allowed for gear clearance between the pinion gear and the one planetary gear which wasn’t an issue until I was in a high load high traction push. That resulted in the gear to slip and shearteeth off the pinion gear but not before breaking the planetary gear in four and a few needle bearings. It also damaged one pin and all three gears in the carrier. Parts quote from jd is coming today ouch. Diff lock was engaged but on a straight push on dirt
I just purchased the same jd510 yesterday it needs to be topped off on hyd oil I blew a line getting it off the trailer kinda stumped me on where to fill it I looked all over the place. The dipstick under the seat you referred to is it the hydraulics for the whole machine is that where you check it? Sorry I know it’s a dumb question but I’m stumped. Also what are you using for oil 46 weight? Thank you.
Yes, that hydraulic reservoir you are filling serves the hydraulic system, the rear differential and the brakes. It is an awkward place to get a large container and pour. I usually go from a 5 gallon to a smaller container I have maneuver under the seat. As for the type of Hydraulic Fluid, I use Traveller Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid from Tractor Supply for the old machine, right specs and good price. It is a premium 10W-30 and is JDM J20C which is what the John Deere requests for that machine. (don’t quote me) but it has worked for me for years on it. Capacity is 29 Gallons so if you change the fluid, be ready with some serious catch basins as it will probably drain 15-20 gallons.
Here is a great question does the wet brakes use the brake fluid one uses in a car or truck or is it the same fluid that is in the transmission and or around the wet brakes itself?
it does look like the brakes are inside the transaxles from the JD parts catalog. So similar access (PAIN IN THE @$$) but different break pad/disk set up. But, probably similar. Looks like your brake material covers the entire ring where mine was on 3 separate pads.
Omg...!!!!....excellent but from now on im gonna need to be more gentle on the old brakes because you made my head my back and my wallet hurt just watching you ..thank you for filming and explaining all that because im sure it'd be totally easier to do without all the camera work too
It makes me hurt just to think about doing that job. It is a good way to get very intimate with your machine. I am gearing up to do some more work on it with some cylinders as soon as a get a break.
I'll be watching when and if you post vids..I picked a used New Mexico Power Company John Deere 510B and they seemed to have serviced it regular but im in a dusty enviornment and I'm at 8000ft elevation so I'm trying to be as gentle on it as I can ..thanks for the videos
It would be too easy to put 4 disc brakes on a backhoe. Then most would not scrap the machine when the brakes go bad and the mfg. wouldn't be selling new machines. This brake job exceeds to value of the machine if you put a price on your time and the frustration.
I agree, which is why I did this myself. The JD shop said it was a big job for them. I'm still using the machine but I just use it for my own work and not as a continuous production machine. The brake pad material will never be changed by me again! I don't have it in me.
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Thank you for the tutorial. It's been a great benefit as far as deciding whether to do the brakes on a Case 590 myself. I'm not quite sure if I need a brake job since altho they groan when applied, they are still effective and stop the machine. But if I need to r&r them, that machine will be going to a Miami dealership! Again, I'm grateful for the work you've done to share your knowledge.
Looks like a very big job, You show excellant patience. Thank you for the advice and help.
There were times that frustration was abound. It was difficult and a big job to take on but now that I is done and is still in good order after two years, well worth overcoming all the problems that had to be solved along the way. And, I saved several thousand dollars and not to mention, increased my arsenal of tools! Win Win Baby!
Thanks for the video... I bought a '96 410D, and the brakes chatter a bit, I'm thinking I will need to do this job before too long - not really looking forward to it...! But your video has been a big help, thanks again!
Cool, I don't wish those wet brakes on anyone. Mine are still good after the fix but disassembly of the entire back end for brakes is ridiculous.
Nice job, the "gaskets" located in the brake cylinders are actually back up rings that prevent oring extrusion. Notice they are on the non pressure side of the oring groove. I have the 410D. Great video Thanks
+Bradford Lunt Thanks for commenting. I hope to never have to do that job on that machine again. So far the brakes are doing great after 6 months of use.
Thank you.... I clearly understand how large of a job this is. I have a 924G that is losing hydraulic fluid from the rear end. the seals for the pistons have blown so I have to do something quick.
If those pistons are anywhere close to the same place that the one are in this old 510, then you have some digging to get in there. It is not a fun job because once you start, there is not going back but broken down into small sections, it isn't an impossible job, just tough.
Going back to the question on brake fluid. On a 510 JD were is the brake reservoir located and were or is there a place to bleed them
On the 510, the hydraulic fluid and the brake fluid are one in the same. Once the hydraulic pump is running, it will operate the pistons that apply the break pad squeeze on the disc that are in the transaxle.
Thanks. I just repacked a loader boom cylinder and will be doing a tutorial on repacking a stabilizer cylinder next. But since it doesn't leak that bad, I am going to get some work out of it first.
Thanks for the video. I've got a new holland 555e with grinding brakes. the 555e has brake discs like the discs in an auto transmission, but the amount of work to get to them is prob about the same. Why the multiple videos? I think there was only about 10 min of footage.
I broke it into different videos because of how extensive the the job was and the fact it took me a long time to complete. 10 Mins? I did 8 parts for this one if you didn't see all of them. Or are you saying I could have condensed all eight in one 10 minute of video to just "hurry it up already"
what a job. how long does it take all over all?
I would like a video on how to bleed the brakes on that backhoe
I have the manual and will check if that is even needed on this machine (different machines might need it) . The pistons that pushed the pads into the disk to apply the breaks were in the same housing as the fluid reservoir/diff case. When i would start the machine, I would press the break petal and feel the hydraulics kick in and stiffen the petal.
Do you know if a 310a backhoe would be similar removal as that I’ve got a broken right axle that needs in the field repair
The 310A looks like a very similar machine to the 510 I worked on in the video. I think the transaxle it very similar so I think dismantling would be very similar, meaning (NOT EASY). The axle it bolted to the cab/chassis. So support of the chassis and the differential/axle is needed. Be safe, those suckers are heavy and some serious impact wrenches are needed to get them loose.
1 DIY Guy I’ve got the bolts out except one inner cab mount that needs to be cut off pulled the diff cover to check for damage confirmed right side axle housing needs to come off found at least one broken planetary gear And pinion gear and a bunch of what looks like big needle bearings
One also got the loader frame that runs beneath the axle housing and replaces your plate for the bolts which may cause restriction of transaxle side of housing to passbook through I’ll figure out more once I can get the cab mount space from on top of the axle removed
What caused the axle break? Did the differential lock up during a turn? I have a foot lever that can activate and deactivate my differential lock. I once had it locked and turned and heard popping and instantly stopped and realized the lock was on. Thought that if someone kept going it would cause some serious damage to an axle, the differential or pinion gears. (Or more)
1 DIY Guy the snap ring was broken that holds the planetary gear pins in the proper location in the carrier looks like it was broken for a while as there was two sets of wear marks on the ring and pieces that caused the one pin and gear set to be riding only on the outside pin boss. This allowed for gear clearance between the pinion gear and the one planetary gear which wasn’t an issue until I was in a high load high traction push. That resulted in the gear to slip and shearteeth off the pinion gear but not before breaking the planetary gear in four and a few needle bearings. It also damaged one pin and all three gears in the carrier. Parts quote from jd is coming today ouch. Diff lock was engaged but on a straight push on dirt
I just purchased the same jd510 yesterday it needs to be topped off on hyd oil I blew a line getting it off the trailer kinda stumped me on where to fill it I looked all over the place. The dipstick under the seat you referred to is it the hydraulics for the whole machine is that where you check it? Sorry I know it’s a dumb question but I’m stumped. Also what are you using for oil 46 weight? Thank you.
Yes, that hydraulic reservoir you are filling serves the hydraulic system, the rear differential and the brakes. It is an awkward place to get a large container and pour. I usually go from a 5 gallon to a smaller container I have maneuver under the seat.
As for the type of Hydraulic Fluid, I use Traveller Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid from Tractor Supply for the old machine, right specs and good price. It is a premium 10W-30 and is JDM J20C which is what the John Deere requests for that machine. (don’t quote me) but it has worked for me for years on it. Capacity is 29 Gallons so if you change the fluid, be ready with some serious catch basins as it will probably drain 15-20 gallons.
Here is a great question does the wet brakes use the brake fluid one uses in a car or truck or is it the same fluid that is in the transmission and or around the wet brakes itself?
multipurpose tractor oil 10w
I think the 410 has a brake band and not the disk.
Oh, nice.
Is it the same on my JD410 ?
Thank you
+TheAudiquattro I think the 410 has a brake band and not the disk.
So I have a 1977 JD310 is this the same brake setup as that?
it does look like the brakes are inside the transaxles from the JD parts catalog. So similar access (PAIN IN THE @$$) but different break pad/disk set up. But, probably similar. Looks like your brake material covers the entire ring where mine was on 3 separate pads.
Omg...!!!!....excellent but from now on im gonna need to be more gentle on the old brakes because you made my head my back and my wallet hurt just watching you ..thank you for filming and explaining all that because im sure it'd be totally easier to do without all the camera work too
It makes me hurt just to think about doing that job. It is a good way to get very intimate with your machine. I am gearing up to do some more work on it with some cylinders as soon as a get a break.
I'll be watching when and if you post vids..I picked a used New Mexico Power Company John Deere 510B and they seemed to have serviced it regular but im in a dusty enviornment and I'm at 8000ft elevation so I'm trying to be as gentle on it as I can ..thanks for the videos
It would be too easy to put 4 disc brakes on a backhoe. Then most would not scrap the machine when the brakes go bad and the mfg. wouldn't be selling new machines. This brake job exceeds to value of the machine if you put a price on your time and the frustration.
I agree, which is why I did this myself. The JD shop said it was a big job for them. I'm still using the machine but I just use it for my own work and not as a continuous production machine. The brake pad material will never be changed by me again! I don't have it in me.