I almost skipped over this video, thinking to myself that this is such basic stuff I don’t need to hear this. I’m so glad I resisted my first impression and stopped and listened. What a simple and yet non-condescending way of presenting such an important topic. Even though I’ve been in the industry for more than 40 years I don’t think I can remember having this topic explained in such a simple and at times humorous fashion. Well done!
I have nowhere near as much experience as you but I was the exact same. It's about reminding ourselves of these basics and really grounding this knowledge. It's quite inspiring to hear that someone of your experience is still recapping on this kind of thing Mark! Shows that this is a life long journey that we are all on in honing our craft.
I’m so glad youtube rec’d your channel. You’re knowledgeable, you teach well, and you’re not trying to shill products. This is what RUclips used to be.
Ugh, you can hear something a thousand times, but one person explaining it in just the right way can totally connect all the dots. Thank you so much! This was a huge help! Subscribed!
Great video. One minor clarification about standard shutter speed: the shutter does open and close each frame (unless it’s at it’s slowest speed then it simply stays open). However, that’s not why the standard is 1/48, because it would still open and close the same number of times if it were 1/96 or 1/8000. Shutter speed is based on the amount of time it’s open during the frame and not the number of times it opens and closes, which in this case is half of the frame time. It’s possible to have a shutter speed at almost any duration - it just can’t be any slower than staying open for the duration of the entire frame, and would dictate not only changes in exposure but also varying degrees of motion blur. Typically, the denominator of the shutter speed fraction is double the frame rate to get the amount of motion blur we are used to (30fps would have a shutter of 1/60, 120fps would have a shutter of 1/240, etc).
@@billythecat I should have clarified that the rule applies more in the lower frame rate range up to maybe 30fps or 48fps. If you had a mirror setup to have two identical cameras see the exact same point of view towards a high movement scene, with Cam A set to 24fps and 1/48th (180 degree shutter) and with Cam B set to 48fps and 1/48th (360 degree shutter), you could take a single, high-movement frame from both cameras at the same time and…they would look identical. I believe one of the recordings would have to be horizontally flipped in camera or in post. Anyway when played back, Cam B’s 48fps recording would appear smoother because it’s twice the temporal information being updated, but the motion blur would be the same because both cameras would be exposed for the same amount of time for matching frames. If you took out every other frame from the 48fps recording that the other recording didn’t capture and doubled up on the frames to fill in the gaps, the two recordings would be indistinguishable. If the 180 degree rule was applied to Cam B, then each frame would be exposed for 1/96th of a second and have half of the exposure and motion blur. As far as aesthetic goes, 48fps and higher frame rates don’t need to follow this rule if they are going to be played back in real time. Those can shoot with a 360 degree shutter, so 48fps > 1/48th, 60fps > 1/60th, etc. But if it is going to be played back at a slower rate, especially 24fps, then the 180 degree aesthetic should probably match unless a crisper look is needed for the scene. So most of the time a 60fps shot that will be slowed down to 24fps should shoot at 1/120th or 180 degree shutter so that when played back at 24fps, the motion blur will appear as if it was shot at 24fps and 1/48th if somehow reality was happening at 40% speed. Hopefully that made sense.
@@homedepotindustrialfan936 I've never touched a camera but I'm trying to make an animation look realistic by adding the motion blur effect and adjusting its shutter speed parameter. Those tips on framerate and shutter speed are priceless. I can't thank you enough
A note of F stops, they're a fraction of the lens focal length. F/2 on a 50mm lens means the opening is 1/2 of the focal length, so 25mm F/4 is one fourth the focal length. So a 200mm F/4 lens will have a 50mm opening for light.
WHAT? with what photography or film? Well, not with photography i guess, F/2 on a fullframe camera with a 50mm lens is f/2. with a cropsensor you have to multiply the f-stop by the cropfactor
@@ridderus To help clarify, the "f" in and F stop literally stands for "focal length" (Focal Length/F Number). The physical focal length of a lens does not change regardless if its on a full or crop sensor. Focal length, in short, is the physical distance between the lens and the modal point, all inside the lens. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop. This is why if you buy a lens made for a MFT or APS-C you still have to apply the crop factor to the lens. What you're thinking of is "Field of View", or how much of the projected image the sensor sees/uses. As for how much light an aperture lets in, that has nothing to do with the sensor or a camera. Only the lens. Hope this helps.
William Currie The ‘F’ in f-stop is actually just an algabraic symbol. It is simply a fractional indication of the ratio of the aperature vs focal length. I don’t know what blogger or ‘expert’ decided that f stood for Focal Length but it’s suddenly all over the web. Just go to the wiki page for F-number and read it . Any documentation uses it as symbol not a letter.
This is incredible, I learned more in 20 min, than I learned in a year of self study, I had given up, I now have a teacher, so thank you for the motivation
The root of 2 is used as a multiplier, because that is for how much you need to multiply the diameter of aperture to get the double surface and hence double the light amount. If you take the 2 instead then with each step you increase aperture area and amount of light 4 times...
I really hope you see this. I bought a DSLR in January and set out to learn the most I could about photography by watching literally hundreds and hundreds of RUclips videos. This is by far the best and most eloquent video I've seen. You, sir, have an amazing TALENT. Thank you for sharing.
I’m studying cinema and filmmaking I was desperately searching internet for hours trying to find the perfect video to explain exposure triangle in filmaking made me found this channel and found this amazing well ELI5 video!! thanks man! When you mentioned citizen knew knew I was in for a good time!
The root of 2 choosen is by the area the light is passing. Take a Square with the area of 1 m², so the length of one side is 1m. To half the area, you have to devide the length of the side by the root of 2 and so on. The f/Stop are roughly rounded too.
Great info overall but please don’t set your iso to auto when shooting video. For still photography Auto is fine. For video, I try the to keep the ISO low to keep grain/noise at a minimum.
@@alessandrodimilla8450 Yeah you're right if you go below native ISO it will produce more noise. I suppose I try to keep it low since my camera's native ISO is 100 (though ISO 400 hundred is close to being a second native ISO thanks to Sony's trickery). I suppose my revised advice would be to keep ISO closest to the native. Also another issue with setting ISO to Auto during video is that it might change the ISO in the middle of the shot depending on if you're panning the camera from a slightly darker are to a brighter one, it happens on my A6300. Or if an actor walks into the shot, the color of their costume might change the ISO as well if a lot of light is bouncing off it. I suggest setting everything manually before actually hitting the record button.
Nice video. About √2: Actually, aperture f-stops are a relation between focal distance and apertura diameter of the lens, if you want to double the area of a circle you need to multiply the diameter by √2.
This is so good! Thank you for such an in depth tutorial. The knowledge although technical excited me creatively - helps me feel that I have a better control of my craft and makes me a better film maker! Thank you as always.
Thank you for explaining this in a way that makes sense!!!!!!! I have taken multiple *college* classes about photography and none of them came close to this in terms of clarity and general enjoyability.. thank you!
4:44 ND filters will always be necessary. If you want your background out of focus when shooting outside on a sunny day right at midday, you'll need a bigger lens opening. The more light comes in, the smaller your focus reach. Without an ND filter, you'll burn the image. With an ND filter, you can open your lens completely on a sunny day without burning the image, getting a nice out of focus background.
Good video but to any noobies watching DON’T use auto ISO and keep your shutter at 1/48 if shooting at 24p (unless filming sports or slow motion at higher frame rates.) Find what your camera’s native ISO is (this is the ISO where your camera will look it’s best, it should be stated by the manufacturer) and keep it there. The only time you ever really need to change ISO is by increasing it in a dark area. When you need to lower exposure (for example a bright outdoor day) use an ND kit or variable ND filter. It seems cumbersome but is 100% worthwhile and makes a huge difference. An ND filter is basically “sunglasses” for your camera and will limit the amount of light it gets while retaining the nice, cinematic motion blur. Just my two cents, good video otherwise.
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions. Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
Great video. Really clear explanation with historical context too. However, the bit about auto ISO should only apply to stills cameras IMO. You might see stepped jumps in picture quality and colour with auto ISO if you are filming.
@wolfcrow thanks for the video! I would have some suggestions to share concerning the part of your video on aperture (starting around minute 14): 1/ F-stops in photography are called f-numbers in optics 2/ The letter "f" stands for focal (not focus) 3/ The f-stop or f-number is the focal ratio between the focal length and the aperture diameter: > f/1 means the focal length equals the aperture diameter > f/2 means the focal length is the double of the aperture diameter > if I have a 50mm with aperture f/2.8, that means my aperture diameter equals 50/2.8 = 17.86mm 4/ Why choose the multiplier "sqr(2)"? You said it before in your video, this ratio doubles the light! (see below) The aperture is a circle so the area that lets the light in equals to: pi x radius^2 > at f/4 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/4)^2 = 490.87mm2 if you want to divide the exposition by 2, you need to multiply the f-number by sqr(2): f/4 becomes f/(4 * sqr(2)) = f/5.6569 > at f/5.6 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/5.6)^2 = 250.45mm2 Feel free to comment for any mistakes I made! Regards!
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I love photography, and I understood how the three related to each other, but I love getting some background onto why the numbers are what they are. It helps translate it all from gibberish into sense.
4:34 Did you misspeak there? I thought image quality went up with lower ISO and down as ISO went up. I thought with increased ISO noise also increased. Similarly, I thought something similar applied with film in that graininess increased with higher ISO film.
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions. Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
Great video, and I'm not the first to point out that root 2 is simply the factor you multiply a radius by to double the area of a circle (and thus double the amount of light). If you start with a circle with area 1, to double it (as per your circle illustrations) you multiply the radius by root 2, because as we know, area = pi * r * r, and multiplying twice with a root makes it just the number, and we get the desired doubling of area/light. You can also see that every other f-stop is double the number, 1, x, 2, y, 4, z, 8, ... The numbers in between are just root 2 multiplied by the previous number, 1, 1.414, 2, 2.8284, 4, 5.657, 8, 11.314, ... but the numbers got rounded down for simplicity to 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, ... It's interesting that technically, it should be 5.7 instead of 5.6, but I think they chose 5.6 as that's double 2.8, so feels more like a double, but the rounding error was ignored.
As a filmmaker, I like to occasionally go back and relearn the fundamentals, and shall I say sir, you have nailed the explanations of each one of the trio, excellent video, thank you for taking the time it took to produce such a quality educational video 👏👏👏
Hello I gotta question ...My f/ Can go to 1.3 I understand that’s good for a blurred background but what’s a good number for just a regular shot with the background an subject in focus?
@@jayday1696 it depends on what lens you use but usually F8 or F9 is the sweet spot to have great sharp photos with everything in focus. Hope this helps.
@@jojoowens9309 thanks for your reply I’m actually doing video though an have been seeing anywhere from 2.8 - 4 does this sound about right I’m using a 18-35mm
2.8 up to F4 can still give the bokeh effect, especially if your subject is a distance away from the background. It depends on the depth of field, if you're wanting everything to be in total focus, it's always better to shoot F-8 and above, if you dont mind a little blurry then f-4 is great, it depends on what you're actually shooting. One of the best ways to learn is to take you an object doll, figure etc.. and set it in the middle of a table while taking different pictures with different F stops. Hope this helps.
I work as photographer and videographer for over 5 years, and even I've had read and seen a lot of video of the triangle, these video appears to me as a really interesting and educational video, so if someone it's thinking it's worth or not seen these video, watch it.
Thank you for this. It is the first video that actually explains it in a simple and complete way for a beginner to not feel overwhelmed. This is what I was looking for
One of the main reasons why the early film industry located in SoCal when it did was because of the climate; plenty of clear days with lots of bright sunshine. The slow filmstocks of the day (1910s-1920s) needed all that light.
Thank you! Super helpful for a beginner. One note though, the backing track in the beginning was great for focusing on what you were teaching but towards the end the prog song was a little distracting with all the complex aperture info. Thanks again.
Root two is used because if you want to double the area of a circle you multiply the radius with root two as the formula for calculating the area of a circle is pi*radius(squared). Root two squared is two (double). It just math ;-)
Some other points: - shutter speed can also be referred to as shutter angle. If a DP says it'll be shot at 180(°), he means around 1/50th a sec. - lenses with incredibly wide apertures can also be referred to as "fast", probably because the shutter speed can close quicker and reduce motion blur. Very important with things like astrophotography (star trails)! - the best analogy I've heard for DOF is imagining light as a room full of people. If the aperture is wide open, lots of people are talking and you can only hear the people closest to you. If everyone decides to leave, and the aperture closes, then you can hear the the conversations next to you and in the corner of the room. - cinematography requires much more accuracy, so T-stops are used rather than f-stops. They measure the ACTUAL amount of light in the lens, including how much light is lost as it passes through the lens to the sensor. Happy DPing!
Wow - I'm a beginner and I loved this (not-so-overwhelming in a positive way) video - understood everything immediately (no confusion at all, for the most part, I would say I saw the light quite clearly) grasping all the ISO stuff the first time around! Hair not even mussed up. Absorbed it all and not in any half-baked way, although "setting the ISO on auto and forgetting about it" appears to be good solid advice. Agreed, won't get hung up on any technical details since a good photographer can always buy a really nice camera. ❤️❤️ 3:31 color film hasn't developed - pun intended?
Hi, thanks for your guide, here's I can give a logic for choosing √2, let's think one aperture opening having area A and another opening double of it, 2A (aperture opening area has a friendly proportional relation with the amount of light passing through it). Now, if we want to know the respective radius of the those opening circles, we have to divide areas by Pi (π) and then take sqrt. of the quotients, like √(A/π) and √(2A/π). Then if we take a ratio of two radii i.e. √(2A/π) / √(A/π) = √2. So, if aperture opening area doubles, radius becomes √2 times. There's the math behind √2. Again, diameter= f/ f-stop. So, the bigger f-stop the lesser the diameter and vice versa.
4:55 Do touch it! Automatic ISO will add digital grain in your image when shooting in low light, this will result in a cheap looking image. The first thing you want to do to make your footage look more professional, is to set your ISO on manual in the smallest number possible.
With digital camera exposure, especially for video, four ways to control exposure, not three, should be understood, with the fourth being the use of neutral density filters to optimize ISO for the least amount of noise. A digital sensor is like an array of red, green and blue “buckets” which are filled with photons which get converted to voltages and numerical values. Optimum exposure with minimum of shadow noise and retention of highlight detail occurs when the shutter closes to stop the exposure at the point where the buckets getting the most light from scene highlights max out and can’t store any more photons. If the shutter stays open beyond that point detail is lost in the shadows and darker parts of the scene are recorded with more light than necessary resulting in a shortening of the tonal range. Conversely if the shutter closes prematurely before the “buckets” in the highlights are filled just below the brim (i.e., 1/3 stop under clipping) the entire scene is underexposed; the entire tonal scale is rendered darker than seen by eye and shadow detail is loss. Aperture is like a valve on the hose filling the buckets. A wide open aperture will fill all the buckets faster, but optimal exposure (filling the brightest buckets to just below the rim / clipping) is dictated and controlled by the shutter speed. The critical thing to understand is that ISO and noise really only become a factor when the shutter time selected manually or by the automatic exposure metering is not sufficient to fill up the highlight “buckets” those in the shadows may still be empty, due to not absorbing enough photons to create a detectable voltage. All that remains in those underexposed shadow “buckets” is the “sludge” from previous exposures. What ISO does is take whatever signal is recorded in the buckets if under-filled amplify it until the signal in the highlight buckets is where is should be when optimally exposed with aperture and shutter. The more the image is underexposed due to less than optimal aperture and shutter action, the more “buckets” there are with no record signal (just sludge) which when amplified produces a random RGB noise pattern. Video shot in Log creates a situation where the ISO is ideally set to a fixed value (i.e. 400 or 800) and shutter is set at 2x frame rate leaving aperture as the only variable available to the photographer to control exposure. In cases where the aperture selected for desired DOF does not “fill the highlight buckets” the videographer must either add additional light to the scene with reflectors or artificial sources color balanced to the ambient, or raise the ISO beyond what the camera manufacturer deems ideal which results in more noise (e.g. over amplification of sludge in the empty and half-filled buckets). In cases where the mandated ISO and 2x frame rate shutter speed results in overexposure at the desired aperture the choices are to either raise the shutter speed (resulting in choppy looking motion and unnatural appearance of spinning objects) or place a neutral density filter over the lens to cut down the light. Density is the numerical value of log(Incident Light / Transmitted (Reflected) Light) If incident light is 2x greater than what makes it through a ND filter its density is log (2/1) = .3 which explains why ND filters are made in density increments of .3 density units. Each .3 of ND added to the lens has the same effect on exposure as closing the aperture by one f/stop but without affecting the DOF. But to make things confusing instead of marking filters “-1, -2, -3” based on the # of f/stops they cut, they are marked in the # of times the light will increase if removed: 2x = 1/stop, 4x = 2/stop, 8x = 3/stop, etc. 🤷🏼♂️ Sophisticated video cameras have automatic meter controlled variable ND filters but on most cameras the videographer must adjust ND manually by based on hand-held meter readings and /or feedback in the live view (histogram / zebra pattern / false colors). That is relatively easy when shooting a scene with consistent lighting, but a challenge in situations like shooting moving wildlife under a variety of changing lighting when the alternative of raising shutter speed beyond the “cinematic” norm in auto mode is the most practical way to avoid overexposure. So if new to video leave room in the equipment budget for good set of easy to adjust ND filters, the forth leg of the video exposure trapezoid.😊
1:10 - it actually doesn't. The organisation is called "International Organization for Standardization" and ISO isn't related to their name. ISO is a play on their initials but it's pronounced eye-so and derived from the the Greek work isos which means equal.
As far as I know, it's not about opening and closing shutter. Film cameras had a rotating mirror - obturator, which gave 50% rotation opening for exposure and 50% to reflect to the eyepiece. In average it was 180 deg - so you devided your framefate by 2 to get shutter speed.
12:16, but they dont. Iso 100 on a Nikon can by totaly different from ISO 100 on a Fuji. Thats because that tody (almost) every camera has a base ISO on Isoless sensors. ISO is something that is made up
How to find the best camera angles ruclips.net/video/hovbpWHJgTQ/видео.html
ur awesome
I almost skipped over this video, thinking to myself that this is such basic stuff I don’t need to hear this. I’m so glad I resisted my first impression and stopped and listened. What a simple and yet non-condescending way of presenting such an important topic. Even though I’ve been in the industry for more than 40 years I don’t think I can remember having this topic explained in such a simple and at times humorous fashion. Well done!
I have nowhere near as much experience as you but I was the exact same. It's about reminding ourselves of these basics and really grounding this knowledge. It's quite inspiring to hear that someone of your experience is still recapping on this kind of thing Mark! Shows that this is a life long journey that we are all on in honing our craft.
i just had a very similar experience. had a jaw drop moment in there somewhere.
Same.
I’m so glad youtube rec’d your channel. You’re knowledgeable, you teach well, and you’re not trying to shill products. This is what RUclips used to be.
Ugh, you can hear something a thousand times, but one person explaining it in just the right way can totally connect all the dots. Thank you so much! This was a huge help! Subscribed!
Great video. One minor clarification about standard shutter speed: the shutter does open and close each frame (unless it’s at it’s slowest speed then it simply stays open). However, that’s not why the standard is 1/48, because it would still open and close the same number of times if it were 1/96 or 1/8000. Shutter speed is based on the amount of time it’s open during the frame and not the number of times it opens and closes, which in this case is half of the frame time. It’s possible to have a shutter speed at almost any duration - it just can’t be any slower than staying open for the duration of the entire frame, and would dictate not only changes in exposure but also varying degrees of motion blur. Typically, the denominator of the shutter speed fraction is double the frame rate to get the amount of motion blur we are used to (30fps would have a shutter of 1/60, 120fps would have a shutter of 1/240, etc).
Otherwise you wouldn't be able to have a 25 shutter at 25 fps. You usually wouldn't do that though because it would be to blurry.
So at 48 fps and shutter speed 1/96, you get the same motion blur as 24 fps shutter speed 1/48?
@@billythecat I should have clarified that the rule applies more in the lower frame rate range up to maybe 30fps or 48fps.
If you had a mirror setup to have two identical cameras see the exact same point of view towards a high movement scene, with Cam A set to 24fps and 1/48th (180 degree shutter) and with Cam B set to 48fps and 1/48th (360 degree shutter), you could take a single, high-movement frame from both cameras at the same time and…they would look identical. I believe one of the recordings would have to be horizontally flipped in camera or in post. Anyway when played back, Cam B’s 48fps recording would appear smoother because it’s twice the temporal information being updated, but the motion blur would be the same because both cameras would be exposed for the same amount of time for matching frames. If you took out every other frame from the 48fps recording that the other recording didn’t capture and doubled up on the frames to fill in the gaps, the two recordings would be indistinguishable.
If the 180 degree rule was applied to Cam B, then each frame would be exposed for 1/96th of a second and have half of the exposure and motion blur. As far as aesthetic goes, 48fps and higher frame rates don’t need to follow this rule if they are going to be played back in real time. Those can shoot with a 360 degree shutter, so 48fps > 1/48th, 60fps > 1/60th, etc.
But if it is going to be played back at a slower rate, especially 24fps, then the 180 degree aesthetic should probably match unless a crisper look is needed for the scene. So most of the time a 60fps shot that will be slowed down to 24fps should shoot at 1/120th or 180 degree shutter so that when played back at 24fps, the motion blur will appear as if it was shot at 24fps and 1/48th if somehow reality was happening at 40% speed.
Hopefully that made sense.
@@homedepotindustrialfan936 I've never touched a camera but I'm trying to make an animation look realistic by adding the motion blur effect and adjusting its shutter speed parameter. Those tips on framerate and shutter speed are priceless. I can't thank you enough
@@billythecat Oh cool, glad to hear it’s helping!
A note of F stops, they're a fraction of the lens focal length.
F/2 on a 50mm lens means the opening is 1/2 of the focal length, so 25mm
F/4 is one fourth the focal length. So a 200mm F/4 lens will have a 50mm opening for light.
thank you!
WHAT? with what photography or film? Well, not with photography i guess, F/2 on a fullframe camera with a 50mm lens is f/2. with a cropsensor you have to multiply the f-stop by the cropfactor
@@ridderus To help clarify, the "f" in and F stop literally stands for "focal length" (Focal Length/F Number). The physical focal length of a lens does not change regardless if its on a full or crop sensor. Focal length, in short, is the physical distance between the lens and the modal point, all inside the lens. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop. This is why if you buy a lens made for a MFT or APS-C you still have to apply the crop factor to the lens. What you're thinking of is "Field of View", or how much of the projected image the sensor sees/uses. As for how much light an aperture lets in, that has nothing to do with the sensor or a camera. Only the lens. Hope this helps.
@@hollow246 The lens doesn't physically change but effectively it is longer on a crop sensor.
William Currie The ‘F’ in f-stop is actually just an algabraic symbol. It is simply a fractional indication of the ratio of the aperature vs focal length. I don’t know what blogger or ‘expert’ decided that f stood for Focal Length but it’s suddenly all over the web. Just go to the wiki page for F-number and read it . Any documentation uses it as symbol not a letter.
This is like a master class. Thank you!
You're welcome!
This is incredible, I learned more in 20 min, than I learned in a year of self study, I had given up, I now have a teacher, so thank you for the motivation
This channel is so underrated. Your narrative is engaging.
The root of 2 is used as a multiplier, because that is for how much you need to multiply the diameter of aperture to get the double surface and hence double the light amount. If you take the 2 instead then with each step you increase aperture area and amount of light 4 times...
Original 3-strip technicolor had an ISO of 12. Lots of light needed for Wizard of Oz, Gone with the Wind, etc.
I really hope you see this. I bought a DSLR in January and set out to learn the most I could about photography by watching literally hundreds and hundreds of RUclips videos. This is by far the best and most eloquent video I've seen. You, sir, have an amazing TALENT. Thank you for sharing.
Never before have I heard an explanation of the classic fundamentals of photography in such an elegant way.
I’m studying cinema and filmmaking I was desperately searching internet for hours trying to find the perfect video to explain exposure triangle in filmaking made me found this channel and found this amazing well ELI5 video!! thanks man! When you mentioned citizen knew knew I was in for a good time!
subscribed!!!
The root of 2 choosen is by the area the light is passing.
Take a Square with the area of 1 m², so the length of one side is 1m.
To half the area, you have to devide the length of the side by the root of 2 and so on.
The f/Stop are roughly rounded too.
Blew my mind when you explained why the shutter is 1/48 for cinema. BLEW MY MIND! It like a switch went off in my head.
I am a photographer and because of your channel, I will start to shoot videos! Thank you!
This is the best video i ve seen for beginner filmmakers
Great info overall but please don’t set your iso to auto when shooting video. For still photography Auto is fine. For video, I try the to keep the ISO low to keep grain/noise at a minimum.
It's not true that lowest iso= lowest noise
The ISO value the CLOSER is to the native ISO of the machine the less noise you'll have
But it depends on the machine, the majority of them has 100, 400, or 500
@@alessandrodimilla8450 Yeah you're right if you go below native ISO it will produce more noise. I suppose I try to keep it low since my camera's native ISO is 100 (though ISO 400 hundred is close to being a second native ISO thanks to Sony's trickery). I suppose my revised advice would be to keep ISO closest to the native. Also another issue with setting ISO to Auto during video is that it might change the ISO in the middle of the shot depending on if you're panning the camera from a slightly darker are to a brighter one, it happens on my A6300. Or if an actor walks into the shot, the color of their costume might change the ISO as well if a lot of light is bouncing off it. I suggest setting everything manually before actually hitting the record button.
@@Chakranimated I agree with you.
Much love for Sony tho, they got sweet cameras that can shoot in the dark ayy
Man, your narration is sooo good to listen to!!
Even though I have been photographing and filming for over thirty years, still love your videos and this one is a beauty. Thank you.
@wolfcrow So far the best teacher I found on youtube!!
Nice video. About √2: Actually, aperture f-stops are a relation between focal distance and apertura diameter of the lens, if you want to double the area of a circle you need to multiply the diameter by √2.
This is so good! Thank you for such an in depth tutorial. The knowledge although technical excited me creatively - helps me feel that I have a better control of my craft and makes me a better film maker! Thank you as always.
Thank you for explaining this in a way that makes sense!!!!!!! I have taken multiple *college* classes about photography and none of them came close to this in terms of clarity and general enjoyability.. thank you!
A must watch video on exposure triangle for every beginner.
I so love your videos, easy explained important things! It's magic how everything gets open and clear
Love your analogies, you communicate concepts brilliantly and in an entertaining way. Excellent
4:44 ND filters will always be necessary. If you want your background out of focus when shooting outside on a sunny day right at midday, you'll need a bigger lens opening.
The more light comes in, the smaller your focus reach. Without an ND filter, you'll burn the image. With an ND filter, you can open your lens completely on a sunny day without burning the image, getting a nice out of focus background.
You're missing what his entire point was about, if cameras could go to lower ISOs than you wouldn't need ND filters.
Good video but to any noobies watching DON’T use auto ISO and keep your shutter at 1/48 if shooting at 24p (unless filming sports or slow motion at higher frame rates.)
Find what your camera’s native ISO is (this is the ISO where your camera will look it’s best, it should be stated by the manufacturer) and keep it there. The only time you ever really need to change ISO is by increasing it in a dark area.
When you need to lower exposure (for example a bright outdoor day) use an ND kit or variable ND filter. It seems cumbersome but is 100% worthwhile and makes a huge difference. An ND filter is basically “sunglasses” for your camera and will limit the amount of light it gets while retaining the nice, cinematic motion blur.
Just my two cents, good video otherwise.
I'm really glad u have this RUclips channel bro
YOU ARE AN AMAZING TEACHER! AND AWESOME HUMAN BEING FOR TEACHING THIS SO WELL AND EASY! THANKS!
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions.
Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
This is one of the best vidography/photography videos on youtube!
Finally someone how explains everything and doesn’t want to sell an online course or something
ISO 320 is and has been for the past 28 years my go to. Thanks for the video Sareesh.
You’re welcome!
This is golden. And Your delivery is on point.
Best film channel period.
This is a good video.Every movie needs good lighting.
Great video. Really clear explanation with historical context too. However, the bit about auto ISO should only apply to stills cameras IMO. You might see stepped jumps in picture quality and colour with auto ISO if you are filming.
Just a breath of fresh air
So so helpful. I didn’t fully get it all, but I’m about 90% of the way there. Thanks!
@wolfcrow thanks for the video!
I would have some suggestions to share concerning the part of your video on aperture (starting around minute 14):
1/ F-stops in photography are called f-numbers in optics
2/ The letter "f" stands for focal (not focus)
3/ The f-stop or f-number is the focal ratio between the focal length and the aperture diameter:
> f/1 means the focal length equals the aperture diameter
> f/2 means the focal length is the double of the aperture diameter
> if I have a 50mm with aperture f/2.8, that means my aperture diameter equals 50/2.8 = 17.86mm
4/ Why choose the multiplier "sqr(2)"? You said it before in your video, this ratio doubles the light! (see below)
The aperture is a circle so the area that lets the light in equals to: pi x radius^2
> at f/4 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/4)^2 = 490.87mm2
if you want to divide the exposition by 2, you need to multiply the f-number by sqr(2): f/4 becomes f/(4 * sqr(2)) = f/5.6569
> at f/5.6 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/5.6)^2 = 250.45mm2
Feel free to comment for any mistakes I made!
Regards!
You r brilliant. Your videos are calming and engaging. Thx.
Your choice of example movies is superb.
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I love photography, and I understood how the three related to each other, but I love getting some background onto why the numbers are what they are. It helps translate it all from gibberish into sense.
Do this to get Correct White Balance every time ruclips.net/video/CMWUdBoLpsI/видео.html
4:34 Did you misspeak there? I thought image quality went up with lower ISO and down as ISO went up. I thought with increased ISO noise also increased. Similarly, I thought something similar applied with film in that graininess increased with higher ISO film.
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions.
Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
Great tips thanks!
instablaster
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Great video, and I'm not the first to point out that root 2 is simply the factor you multiply a radius by to double the area of a circle (and thus double the amount of light). If you start with a circle with area 1, to double it (as per your circle illustrations) you multiply the radius by root 2, because as we know, area = pi * r * r, and multiplying twice with a root makes it just the number, and we get the desired doubling of area/light. You can also see that every other f-stop is double the number, 1, x, 2, y, 4, z, 8, ... The numbers in between are just root 2 multiplied by the previous number, 1, 1.414, 2, 2.8284, 4, 5.657, 8, 11.314, ... but the numbers got rounded down for simplicity to 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, ... It's interesting that technically, it should be 5.7 instead of 5.6, but I think they chose 5.6 as that's double 2.8, so feels more like a double, but the rounding error was ignored.
As a filmmaker, I like to occasionally go back and relearn the fundamentals, and shall I say sir, you have nailed the explanations of each one of the trio, excellent video, thank you for taking the time it took to produce such a quality educational video 👏👏👏
Hello I gotta question ...My f/ Can go to 1.3 I understand that’s good for a blurred background but what’s a good number for just a regular shot with the background an subject in focus?
@@jayday1696 it depends on what lens you use but usually F8 or F9 is the sweet spot to have great sharp photos with everything in focus. Hope this helps.
@@jojoowens9309 thanks for your reply I’m actually doing video though an have been seeing anywhere from 2.8 - 4 does this sound about right I’m using a 18-35mm
2.8 up to F4 can still give the bokeh effect, especially if your subject is a distance away from the background. It depends on the depth of field, if you're wanting everything to be in total focus, it's always better to shoot F-8 and above, if you dont mind a little blurry then f-4 is great, it depends on what you're actually shooting. One of the best ways to learn is to take you an object doll, figure etc.. and set it in the middle of a table while taking different pictures with different F stops. Hope this helps.
@@jojoowens9309 thank you
I work as photographer and videographer for over 5 years, and even I've had read and seen a lot of video of the triangle, these video appears to me as a really interesting and educational video, so if someone it's thinking it's worth or not seen these video, watch it.
Master Class: thank you so much for your time and effort 👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you for this. It is the first video that actually explains it in a simple and complete way for a beginner to not feel overwhelmed. This is what I was looking for
Thanks I have learnt something that I have been struggling a lot for thanks
Wow your videos rock! Some of if not the best I’ve ever seen on complex subjects in videography aka photography given video is just moving photos
Well done! I'm going to share this with my photo club members.
One of the main reasons why the early film industry located in SoCal when it did was because of the climate; plenty of clear days with lots of bright sunshine. The slow filmstocks of the day (1910s-1920s) needed all that light.
Thank you! Super helpful for a beginner. One note though, the backing track in the beginning was great for focusing on what you were teaching but towards the end the prog song was a little distracting with all the complex aperture info. Thanks again.
Root two is used because if you want to double the area of a circle you multiply the radius with root two as the formula for calculating the area of a circle is pi*radius(squared). Root two squared is two (double). It just math ;-)
Once again, it could not be better explained!!!! Thanks Sareesh 🙏🙏🙏
Some other points:
- shutter speed can also be referred to as shutter angle. If a DP says it'll be shot at 180(°), he means around 1/50th a sec.
- lenses with incredibly wide apertures can also be referred to as "fast", probably because the shutter speed can close quicker and reduce motion blur. Very important with things like astrophotography (star trails)!
- the best analogy I've heard for DOF is imagining light as a room full of people. If the aperture is wide open, lots of people are talking and you can only hear the people closest to you. If everyone decides to leave, and the aperture closes, then you can hear the the conversations next to you and in the corner of the room.
- cinematography requires much more accuracy, so T-stops are used rather than f-stops. They measure the ACTUAL amount of light in the lens, including how much light is lost as it passes through the lens to the sensor.
Happy DPing!
back to basics! :)
it never hurts a little reminder :D
Great video ! Loved the way you make people understand the complicated things in the simplest examples possible ❤️❤️
Fantastic, u can create legends with this video. Thank u..
Thank you so much for saying I-S-O!!! Some many people say “iso” as in “isolation” !
Brilliantly explained and illustrated. Thank you 🙏
You are amazing. I have learned so many things through this channel. Thank you Wolfcrow.
i watced this while drunk, man, i have to tell you, nice work, this entered on my mind like a politician speech. nice job.
best explanation i have seen
And for those wondering, the carwash scene is from Cool Hand Luke. Great ISO.
Great pice if educational art.
Thank you very much!
I like your channel! You break down the nuts and bolts of the art in an accessible way.
Wow - I'm a beginner and I loved this (not-so-overwhelming in a positive way) video - understood everything immediately (no confusion at all, for the most part, I would say I saw the light quite clearly) grasping all the ISO stuff the first time around! Hair not even mussed up. Absorbed it all and not in any half-baked way, although "setting the ISO on auto and forgetting about it" appears to be good solid advice. Agreed, won't get hung up on any technical details since a good photographer can always buy a really nice camera. ❤️❤️
3:31 color film hasn't developed - pun intended?
Pun always intended!
Keeping it simple the classic way
Great video sir
Very well explained and with good humor! Thanks!!
Loved the video! It's the exact amount of stuff about cameras I need to know right now. Thank you!
Hi, thanks for your guide, here's I can give a logic for choosing √2, let's think one aperture opening having area A and another opening double of it, 2A (aperture opening area has a friendly proportional relation with the amount of light passing through it). Now, if we want to know the respective radius of the those opening circles, we have to divide areas by Pi (π) and then take sqrt. of the quotients, like √(A/π) and √(2A/π). Then if we take a ratio of two radii i.e. √(2A/π) / √(A/π) = √2. So, if aperture opening area doubles, radius becomes √2 times. There's the math behind √2. Again, diameter= f/ f-stop. So, the bigger f-stop the lesser the diameter and vice versa.
4:55 Do touch it! Automatic ISO will add digital grain in your image when shooting in low light, this will result in a cheap looking image. The first thing you want to do to make your footage look more professional, is to set your ISO on manual in the smallest number possible.
*noise
Nice brother .
It's wonderful information
Thanks
With digital camera exposure, especially for video, four ways to control exposure, not three, should be understood, with the fourth being the use of neutral density filters to optimize ISO for the least amount of noise.
A digital sensor is like an array of red, green and blue “buckets” which are filled with photons which get converted to voltages and numerical values. Optimum exposure with minimum of shadow noise and retention of highlight detail occurs when the shutter closes to stop the exposure at the point where the buckets getting the most light from scene highlights max out and can’t store any more photons.
If the shutter stays open beyond that point detail is lost in the shadows and darker parts of the scene are recorded with more light than necessary resulting in a shortening of the tonal range. Conversely if the shutter closes prematurely before the “buckets” in the highlights are filled just below the brim (i.e., 1/3 stop under clipping) the entire scene is underexposed; the entire tonal scale is rendered darker than seen by eye and shadow detail is loss.
Aperture is like a valve on the hose filling the buckets. A wide open aperture will fill all the buckets faster, but optimal exposure (filling the brightest buckets to just below the rim / clipping) is dictated and controlled by the shutter speed.
The critical thing to understand is that ISO and noise really only become a factor when the shutter time selected manually or by the automatic exposure metering is not sufficient to fill up the highlight “buckets” those in the shadows may still be empty, due to not absorbing enough photons to create a detectable voltage. All that remains in those underexposed shadow “buckets” is the “sludge” from previous exposures.
What ISO does is take whatever signal is recorded in the buckets if under-filled amplify it until the signal in the highlight buckets is where is should be when optimally exposed with aperture and shutter. The more the image is underexposed due to less than optimal aperture and shutter action, the more “buckets” there are with no record signal (just sludge) which when amplified produces a random RGB noise pattern.
Video shot in Log creates a situation where the ISO is ideally set to a fixed value (i.e. 400 or 800) and shutter is set at 2x frame rate leaving aperture as the only variable available to the photographer to control exposure.
In cases where the aperture selected for desired DOF does not “fill the highlight buckets” the videographer must either add additional light to the scene with reflectors or artificial sources color balanced to the ambient, or raise the ISO beyond what the camera manufacturer deems ideal which results in more noise (e.g. over amplification of sludge in the empty and half-filled buckets).
In cases where the mandated ISO and 2x frame rate shutter speed results in overexposure at the desired aperture the choices are to either raise the shutter speed (resulting in choppy looking motion and unnatural appearance of spinning objects) or place a neutral density filter over the lens to cut down the light.
Density is the numerical value of log(Incident Light / Transmitted (Reflected) Light) If incident light is 2x greater than what makes it through a ND filter its density is log (2/1) = .3 which explains why ND filters are made in density increments of .3 density units. Each .3 of ND added to the lens has the same effect on exposure as closing the aperture by one f/stop but without affecting the DOF. But to make things confusing instead of marking filters “-1, -2, -3” based on the # of f/stops they cut, they are marked in the # of times the light will increase if removed: 2x = 1/stop, 4x = 2/stop, 8x = 3/stop, etc. 🤷🏼♂️
Sophisticated video cameras have automatic meter controlled variable ND filters but on most cameras the videographer must adjust ND manually by based on hand-held meter readings and /or feedback in the live view (histogram / zebra pattern / false colors). That is relatively easy when shooting a scene with consistent lighting, but a challenge in situations like shooting moving wildlife under a variety of changing lighting when the alternative of raising shutter speed beyond the “cinematic” norm in auto mode is the most practical way to avoid overexposure.
So if new to video leave room in the equipment budget for good set of easy to adjust ND filters, the forth leg of the video exposure trapezoid.😊
The square root of 2 was not chosen, it simply emerges from the math of halving the area of the aperture (which cuts the light in half: one stop)
This is an excellent video, I have ever watched ! Thanks a ton for this great Tutorial !!! 👏👌🤩😍
my brain was bleeding! but still, a worthwhile video 👍👍👍👍
You are a great teacher, thank you. I have learned so much.
thank you... that was very illuminating...
well explained , thanks for this video!
You create superb content. Informative, useful and nicely explained. I would like to appreciate your efforts.
1:10 - it actually doesn't. The organisation is called "International Organization for Standardization" and ISO isn't related to their name.
ISO is a play on their initials but it's pronounced eye-so and derived from the the Greek work isos which means equal.
Wow so much value for this channel.
Wow best explanation I've ever seen and the historical context really makes this poignant.
As far as I know, it's not about opening and closing shutter. Film cameras had a rotating mirror - obturator, which gave 50% rotation opening for exposure and 50% to reflect to the eyepiece. In average it was 180 deg - so you devided your framefate by 2 to get shutter speed.
This clip is rich. Thanks 😊 🙏
Brilliant! Thanks so much for such a great explanation!
thank u so much!! i learned a lot from this video
You're such a good teacher. Thank you for explaining the complex of things with such ease. 👍
12:16, but they dont. Iso 100 on a Nikon can by totaly different from ISO 100 on a Fuji. Thats because that tody (almost) every camera has a base ISO on Isoless sensors. ISO is something that is made up
Thank you!
your video is very helpful.
Insightful video. Thanks
Outstanding teacher, great mind
This is great. Thank you.
Remarkable. I had to spell this out rather than let the phone complete the word for me. R E M A R K A B L E. :)