Thanks for the video! ??? : Does the second coat actually bond (etch into and chemically bond) with the first coat even when the first is dry? ??? : What was the dry time? ??? : Have you a weight ratio of Xyl. to foam? ??? : Have you tried making a thinner mix so the coating soaks into the wood deeper? Thanks for your time!
@@FrustratedBaboon If my asking simple and reasonable questions makes you agitated to the point of posting rude, ignorant and childish comments, I feel sorry for you. You're life must be pretty unhappy. Maybe get help instead of posting nonsense.
@@MrPicklesAndTea I didn't know titanium dioxide was a good UV blocker. Since it is a nice white pigment, that might be very useful. I'll definitely experiment a bit with that :)
@@TheStigma Any luck trying this? I have a bridge to build over a creek. Need something really durable. I think if this was thinned with more solvent, it would be good as it would soak deep into the wood. Also wonder what the bond is like between layers? Do the subsequent coats etch into and bond with the previous dry coat or just sit on top(Not good for durability) Thanks!
@@wingnutbert9685 I haven't got around to testing it much aside from a few small experiments yet, sorry. I'm not sure how well it would penetrate wood, but as far as multiple coats goes that shouldn't be a problem since the solvent in extra layers will temporarily liquidfy the top of the existing layer, so it should chemically bond together as one material without need for any sanding or prep between. Multiple thin layers will definitely be best to do, because otherwise gas can easily get trapped and make the plastic porous - and thus brittle. If that happens you will see it turn white rather than clear. You can consider the old farmers trick (for fence posts) of mixing gasoline and diesel with bitumen (basically ashfalt, commonly found as roof repair material) to make a paint that penetrates very deeply and basically makes wood rot-proof and waterproof. You could use xylene instead (less toxic) of course, but fuels are an alternative for the cheapscate DIYer. Can't really make it any color other than black, but this stuff holds up really well for wood that needs to be in or directly on soil - especially in wet conditions. There is even a further modification to this that involves mixing in a bit of silicone to make it very water repellent as well. That kills any ability for the paint to penetrate wood deeply though, but it can presumably make a good weatherproofing outer layer.
@@TheStigma Thanks very much for the reply! I'd like to avoid the bitumen/gas route. The bridge is over a sensitive creek habitat and is a fairly steep hike to get to and from. I forgot about silicone. I did see a while back, that people were mixing 100% silicone caulk with a solvent (might have been a white spirit) to a very thin consistency. It was used as a penetrating waterproof medium. Applied to a bed sheet for an ultra light tarp for travel, etc. Also applied to boots and backpacks, etc. Takes time for the solvent to evaporate off, but was water-thin and really soaked in. Just a matter of how it reacts with the wood and if the wood it dry enough. (I'm planning on using a downed Douglas Fir that's right near the creek. The plan/hope is to cut a 26 foot straight section, with one OD being about 18" and the other end being about 30" OD, with a chainsaw. Then saw it down the middle and take the bark off. I'll cut a sample off the waste end and try some various mixes. I just liked the hardness of this stuff. Though thinned Silicone being flexible might actually be a better idea so it would be less apt to crack as the beams expand/contract. thanks again for the reply! If I experiment, I'll post finding here. 👍
I have to stabilize some arroyo walls and I was thinking of utilizing styrofoam and thinning it out thin thin to penetrate the dirt, band aid infrastructure I call it
I have some old aluminum windows .... I wonder it Styrofoam "paint" can do a good job as a thermal insulator. It should work, but I wonder about the thickness it needs ...
Use with caution, highly flammable, don't ball up rags with this on it, or combine in a container unfold rags and let then dry in the sun for a few days, it can spontaneously combust.
Very good idea. Your new friend connected.
work in a well ventilated area with Xylene.
Thanks for the video!
??? : Does the second coat actually bond (etch into and chemically bond) with the first coat even when the first is dry?
??? : What was the dry time?
??? : Have you a weight ratio of Xyl. to foam?
??? : Have you tried making a thinner mix so the coating soaks into the wood deeper?
Thanks for your time!
Why don't you try it and let us know? Do you think this guy is suddenly an expert and thinks like you to make these decisions for you?
@@FrustratedBaboon If my asking simple and reasonable questions makes you agitated to the point of posting rude, ignorant and childish comments, I feel sorry for you. You're life must be pretty unhappy. Maybe get help instead of posting nonsense.
All I want to know is what kind of coloring agent you used?
What is a recommended ratio of xylene and polystyrene (by weight)?
And is there any way to stabilize it against UV for outdoor use?
Titanium Dioxide and Zinc oxide would both act to block UV. However, there are better and more comprehensive solutions I don't know about.
@@MrPicklesAndTea I didn't know titanium dioxide was a good UV blocker. Since it is a nice white pigment, that might be very useful. I'll definitely experiment a bit with that :)
@@TheStigma Any luck trying this? I have a bridge to build over a creek. Need something really durable. I think if this was thinned with more solvent, it would be good as it would soak deep into the wood. Also wonder what the bond is like between layers? Do the subsequent coats etch into and bond with the previous dry coat or just sit on top(Not good for durability)
Thanks!
@@wingnutbert9685 I haven't got around to testing it much aside from a few small experiments yet, sorry. I'm not sure how well it would penetrate wood, but as far as multiple coats goes that shouldn't be a problem since the solvent in extra layers will temporarily liquidfy the top of the existing layer, so it should chemically bond together as one material without need for any sanding or prep between. Multiple thin layers will definitely be best to do, because otherwise gas can easily get trapped and make the plastic porous - and thus brittle. If that happens you will see it turn white rather than clear.
You can consider the old farmers trick (for fence posts) of mixing gasoline and diesel with bitumen (basically ashfalt, commonly found as roof repair material) to make a paint that penetrates very deeply and basically makes wood rot-proof and waterproof. You could use xylene instead (less toxic) of course, but fuels are an alternative for the cheapscate DIYer. Can't really make it any color other than black, but this stuff holds up really well for wood that needs to be in or directly on soil - especially in wet conditions.
There is even a further modification to this that involves mixing in a bit of silicone to make it very water repellent as well. That kills any ability for the paint to penetrate wood deeply though, but it can presumably make a good weatherproofing outer layer.
@@TheStigma Thanks very much for the reply! I'd like to avoid the bitumen/gas route. The bridge is over a sensitive creek habitat and is a fairly steep hike to get to and from. I forgot about silicone. I did see a while back, that people were mixing 100% silicone caulk with a solvent (might have been a white spirit) to a very thin consistency. It was used as a penetrating waterproof medium. Applied to a bed sheet for an ultra light tarp for travel, etc. Also applied to boots and backpacks, etc. Takes time for the solvent to evaporate off, but was water-thin and really soaked in. Just a matter of how it reacts with the wood and if the wood it dry enough. (I'm planning on using a downed Douglas Fir that's right near the creek. The plan/hope is to cut a 26 foot straight section, with one OD being about 18" and the other end being about 30" OD, with a chainsaw. Then saw it down the middle and take the bark off. I'll cut a sample off the waste end and try some various mixes. I just liked the hardness of this stuff. Though thinned Silicone being flexible might actually be a better idea so it would be less apt to crack as the beams expand/contract.
thanks again for the reply! If I experiment, I'll post finding here. 👍
Petrol / Gasoline works well too and is much cheaper than Xylene/Acetone.
False! Stop spreading misinformation. It just melts it.
EPS foam yellows and degrades in the sun. So might have to test this
What black paint do you mixed into that solvent?
You can also use it to fill cracks in driveway blacktop
Hello. I have question - after pouring cardboard and flex it - does that layer stay still or it have cracks ?
what is the ratio of xylene and how many ot what size of styrofoam you will use before it reach its effect as a water proofing
Thanks for the information...
I would like to try it for my roof top...
Hopefully it will solve my problem...
Don't use it for your roof... It doesn't last long.. it is not better than a polythene cover.
@@pallavarora7467 thanks for your information...
I'm impressed!! Freaking amazing
Thanks
I have to stabilize some arroyo walls and I was thinking of utilizing styrofoam and thinning it out thin thin to penetrate the dirt, band aid infrastructure I call it
We use Xylene all the time to basically melt plastic together
facinating! WHO KNEW? i can think of things I can waterproof. Now I have to save all that bulky styrofoam....ugh....
Will coat tires without damaging the rubber??
Can this be stored and re-used?
Yes
is that paint thinner
Does it work on plastic?
Can it use for electronic board?
Painting that on wood is creating a matchstick.
I have some old aluminum windows .... I wonder it Styrofoam "paint" can do a good job as a thermal insulator. It should work, but I wonder about the thickness it needs ...
Use with caution, highly flammable, don't ball up rags with this on it, or combine in a container unfold rags and let then dry in the sun for a few days, it can spontaneously combust.
What is KSYLEN in a bottle, a gas or thinner,?
This is a solvent.
Glue bna k hum kitni dair rakh sakty h
Which solution do u mix with Thermocol
I tried using acetone, it jus an unspeakable gum in a few seconds. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks . Can I melt plastic with xylene and where do I order xylene online (in india)
I guess kerosene will also work
What is its reaction with ultraviolet ?
Great job. Which type of Xylene are you using for this. Thanks
What did you put in it to make it black?
Corante
Merci.
Cool idea! Well done🛠
Thank you so much
If you want to make napalm, or something very like it, use gasoline instead of xylene. Sticks and burns like hell.
Wow you made stainless steel waterproof😅
Just kidding, thanks for the vid!
How did it not become a slime-like substance?
Many other ( cyclic ) solvents work just as well ....Toluene / Benzene ...etc.... DAVE™ ...........
Wow
You just invented paint
Thanks 😊
You lucky you can buy Xylene. In Africa if you ask for Xylene they will say 'Wati'
Ano pwede alternate ksylen po kung wala
Nitro
Spaciba.
That’s not styrofoam, it’s EPs (Extruded PolyStyrene beads) Styrafoam is a different product!
Nope, he used expanded polystyrene (EPS) which is styrofoam, vice extruded polystyrene (XPS).
ما هو الأسود
Otherwise known as napalm
This material doesn't last long , maybe a season... Not recommended
Bullshit
Would that work with Petrol?
I don't know, but it makes good napalm.