Searching the web, found your site and the lites went on as how marine CDI s work. Thanks for your time on making understandable, I get it . I just got a DVA meter to check my ignition system. I know I can do this and save hundreds of money!! Thank you. Shops here are over whelmed and don’t like working on the old 2 strokes! There good engines and relatively inexpensive compared to the new ones. Im a fan and have already shared you channel to others 👍😬
Dc when using the premade ones online because they have internal rectifiers that convert the ac to dc. If u make your own with just the capacitor and resistors and diode AC.
check ohms and compare it to specs, cana lso swap it with a cylinder thats running well - if the coil works in a new location the problem is further upstream, the coil is the last component adter the stator and trigger.. so work your way up. a bad lead cana lso cause issues.. if u can run it at night look for sparks around the wires/coils.
Any chance you would be able to help me with a problem I have on an E-Tech outboard? The problem is the emm is not charging the battery. So I'm trying to figure out a bypass to hook up a regulator directly to the stator and then out to the battery. Everything else works fine. I posted a video of where I'm at now
just use the wire that sends 12v + , and wire it to the S terminal on a regular ford style solenoid (make sure it has a very good ground / bolt direct to block) - put the 12v from batt on one terminal and red cable to starter on 2nd large terminal - ignore the i terminal, its for ignition points, that would work.. spray wax corrosion stop or something all over the connections and wire ends..
Not sure if i mentioned it and maybe ill add a note - the DVA adapters on the market convert AC to DC (confusing for noobs!), its not really documented I had to call to verify! Homebrew ones read AC though :)
When i run this test on my 1985 johnson 60, i get around 250 but it slowly drops (connected). Disconnected it stays at the correct voltage. Sorry to bother you!
yes thats correct - the testers have a small bleed down resistor inside to drain the capacitor otherwise it will hold that 250v and potentially zap someone ;)
Good catch! the adapter im using converts AC to DC (most of them do - not sure why!). you can build your own AC based adpater (without the dc diode conversion for CHEAP - look online). Its basically a resistor, one diode and a capacitor, you can find a diagram online. THAT one will output AC - i used it for a few years till I ponied up and paid $35 for a sealed unit with prongs that go into the meter :)
@@SocalMarineUSA Right on, yea I got the adapter but I didn't see where it said to read it DC, I am a mechanic, but no electrician for sure. So this clears it up for me. Great video man thank you
first chek the stator wires are producing ac volts BEFORE the rectifier/regulator. Then check for 13-15v DC AFTER the regulator/rectifier- If they are then you might need to replace the rectifier or maybe a fuse went bad .. if you have an alternator on the engine it might be bad too..
Which manual was that you were referencing? Does is cover more than OMC/Johnson/Evinrude? Great video by the way! I'm currently battling a charging issue in a 90hp V4 and looks like diodes in rectifier gave up... time to pull the flywheel.
just test the wires going into the reg/rect for AC - i think they should have 25-35v or something - generally speaking that is.. that manual was for that motor - 70s but same principle.
@@SocalMarineUSA I ended up getting a good deal on the OMC box set of service manuals. Great for my 9.9 and 90 V4! I swapped the voltage reg without issue (luckily stator and timing was good) and now charging battery bank again.
OK - the stator generates AC -- but your meter is set for DC. That could make sense when the wire is attached, as the rectifier converts to DC -- but unconnected? Help.
The dva adapter from cdi converts to dc .. if u made it with just the diode and capacitor you could read in ac.. but they design it like that.. dunno why.
Searching the web, found your site and the lites went on as how marine CDI s work. Thanks for your time on making understandable, I get it . I just got a DVA meter to check my ignition system. I know I can do this and save hundreds of money!! Thank you. Shops here are over whelmed and don’t like working on the old 2 strokes! There good engines and relatively inexpensive compared to the new ones. Im a fan and have already shared you channel to others 👍😬
good job,we need more like you explaining things step-by-step.keek up the good work 5 star
Good Stuff. You're a good teacher. Stick with it & your subscribers will grow.
appreciate it thanks- always trying to help folks out but it does get hard filming and working alone and trying to make sense to the common guy!
Giving God credit where credit is always due.
Thank you my friend...i understand the igition system much better now.
I think I got a bad pack I love your videos man they are my index
Where does the black dva wire connect to
Thank you very informative 👍
Thanks bud very helpful
Glad it helped
Perfect
What does the multimeter need to be set on when hooking up the dva adapter
Dc when using the premade ones online because they have internal rectifiers that convert the ac to dc. If u make your own with just the capacitor and resistors and diode AC.
I replaced the power pack and still 1.5 on brown wire when connected to power pack. Any ideas?
do you think you can put the other type of cdi?
GREAT content, thanks!
How would you test the coil pack on a 1994 Evinrude v4 88?
check ohms and compare it to specs, cana lso swap it with a cylinder thats running well - if the coil works in a new location the problem is further upstream, the coil is the last component adter the stator and trigger.. so work your way up. a bad lead cana lso cause issues.. if u can run it at night look for sparks around the wires/coils.
Any chance you would be able to help me with a problem I have on an E-Tech outboard? The problem is the emm is not charging the battery. So I'm trying to figure out a bypass to hook up a regulator directly to the stator and then out to the battery. Everything else works fine. I posted a video of where I'm at now
just use the wire that sends 12v + , and wire it to the S terminal on a regular ford style solenoid (make sure it has a very good ground / bolt direct to block) - put the 12v from batt on one terminal and red cable to starter on 2nd large terminal - ignore the i terminal, its for ignition points, that would work.. spray wax corrosion stop or something all over the connections and wire ends..
where can i find the manual?
I like your video, good information, greetings
Manual is online just search for cdi outboard troubleshooting
I have the same engine and it stopped giving spark and the engine started well, I changed the coils and it still doesn't give spark
@@abelardo9881 try with the kill wire disconnected at the pack -
what color would it be?
Why is your meter on DC ? Your measuring the AC from stator right ?
Not sure if i mentioned it and maybe ill add a note - the DVA adapters on the market convert AC to DC (confusing for noobs!), its not really documented I had to call to verify! Homebrew ones read AC though :)
When i run this test on my 1985 johnson 60, i get around 250 but it slowly drops (connected). Disconnected it stays at the correct voltage. Sorry to bother you!
yes thats correct - the testers have a small bleed down resistor inside to drain the capacitor otherwise it will hold that 250v and potentially zap someone ;)
I'm confused, you said it was AC and yet your meter was set to DC, does the DVA adapter require you to set it to DC?
Good catch! the adapter im using converts AC to DC (most of them do - not sure why!). you can build your own AC based adpater (without the dc diode conversion for CHEAP - look online). Its basically a resistor, one diode and a capacitor, you can find a diagram online. THAT one will output AC - i used it for a few years till I ponied up and paid $35 for a sealed unit with prongs that go into the meter :)
@@SocalMarineUSA Right on, yea I got the adapter but I didn't see where it said to read it DC, I am a mechanic, but no electrician for sure. So this clears it up for me. Great video man thank you
30 hp etech marine engine does not charge the battery. What can I do? I wish you a good day, my friend
first chek the stator wires are producing ac volts BEFORE the rectifier/regulator. Then check for 13-15v DC AFTER the regulator/rectifier- If they are then you might need to replace the rectifier or maybe a fuse went bad .. if you have an alternator on the engine it might be bad too..
Which manual was that you were referencing? Does is cover more than OMC/Johnson/Evinrude? Great video by the way! I'm currently battling a charging issue in a 90hp V4 and looks like diodes in rectifier gave up... time to pull the flywheel.
just test the wires going into the reg/rect for AC - i think they should have 25-35v or something - generally speaking that is.. that manual was for that motor - 70s but same principle.
@@SocalMarineUSA I ended up getting a good deal on the OMC box set of service manuals. Great for my 9.9 and 90 V4! I swapped the voltage reg without issue (luckily stator and timing was good) and now charging battery bank again.
OK - the stator generates AC -- but your meter is set for DC. That could make sense when the wire is attached, as the rectifier converts to DC -- but unconnected? Help.
The dva adapter from cdi converts to dc .. if u made it with just the diode and capacitor you could read in ac.. but they design it like that.. dunno why.
@@fstarockaburns425 Well, that's it then. Thanks!