Fantastic work on the cockpit Jen! 👏👌 Really enjoyed seeing the way you work, and the thought processes involved, along with explanations as to why you are doing it. It's wonderful to watch someone so skilled produce something so beautiful! A little dramatic perhaps, but modelling to me is an artform, and it's a real pleasure to be able to watch you build models. Thanks so much for posting Jen. I'm getting further behind now but I'll catch up! Take care Bobby
Wonderful series thank you Jen. I may not be an absolute beginner but with my current model I'm having to make up much as I go along and this is the perfect antidote. I had promised I wouldn't start my Mustang until I had a clear bench but you've made it irresistible!
Cockpit coming along nicely! I got one of those Gunze jar opening wrenches somewhere in Japan with a Basic set of paints. Think it was about 1,000 Yen or so at the time - maybe $10 U.S. But that was around 2001.
If you slightly undo the nozzle ring closest to the main body, you can get the paint to bubble through the colour cup. One of these WOW moments was when someone else told me about it. 😆 Keep up the good work though, always good videos.
For the Eduard 3D decals I find that painting carefully around the dials with an acrylic black wash (I use the Citadel Nuln Oil, but even very thinned black acrylic from Vallejo or Humbrol would work) helps tone down the printing "speckles". It tends to dry matt as well which helps the dials pop further.
Just trying decide how to proceed. Airfix replaced the whole sprue with propellor and control surfaces but this replacement is still poor. Each prop blade has 2 indents either sider of the tips and the control surfaces have deep swirl patterns that would need filling. I could get an eduard set that has control surfaces and prop but thats an expensive route to take. Would almost pay me to buy another kit to keep costs to a minimum but having to use online (no model shops in swindon) there is no chance of checking before buying. Must admit not very happy with Airfix at the moment.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft i placed an order with Hannants for an eduard blade. As to the control surfaces they only seem available in a £34 kit that would give me parts i would not need. I will take your advice and contact Airfix again. Most issues you can workaround but these parts really would take a massive amount of effort to try and get sorted.
I use it from habit, honestly. The reason most modellers use a black of this type rather than XF-1 is that it's slightly less black than .... er... black. XF-85 is a very, very dark grey and using it rather than XF-1 gives a slightly less stark finish, and leaves the opportunity to weather the finish with a more pure black if you wish. You're right, it's a fair question!
Sirens in the last episode, airplanes in this one, I love where you live!!!
Fantastic work on the cockpit Jen! 👏👌 Really enjoyed seeing the way you work, and the thought processes involved, along with explanations as to why you are doing it. It's wonderful to watch someone so skilled produce something so beautiful! A little dramatic perhaps, but modelling to me is an artform, and it's a real pleasure to be able to watch you build models. Thanks so much for posting Jen. I'm getting further behind now but I'll catch up! Take care
Bobby
A wax pencil is great for picking up small photo etch pieces.
Wonderful series thank you Jen. I may not be an absolute beginner but with my current model I'm having to make up much as I go along and this is the perfect antidote. I had promised I wouldn't start my Mustang until I had a clear bench but you've made it irresistible!
Cockpit coming along nicely! I got one of those Gunze jar opening wrenches somewhere in Japan with a Basic set of paints. Think it was about 1,000 Yen or so at the time - maybe $10 U.S. But that was around 2001.
If you slightly undo the nozzle ring closest to the main body, you can get the paint to bubble through the colour cup. One of these WOW moments was when someone else told me about it. 😆
Keep up the good work though, always good videos.
For the Eduard 3D decals I find that painting carefully around the dials with an acrylic black wash (I use the Citadel Nuln Oil, but even very thinned black acrylic from Vallejo or Humbrol would work) helps tone down the printing "speckles". It tends to dry matt as well which helps the dials pop further.
Jen looking sharp and nice cockpit detail & weathering !!
Those Gunze lids always glue themselves on like hell....strangely Tamiya are fine (usually!)
Just trying decide how to proceed. Airfix replaced the whole sprue with propellor and control surfaces but this replacement is still poor. Each prop blade has 2 indents either sider of the tips and the control surfaces have deep swirl patterns that would need filling. I could get an eduard set that has control surfaces and prop but thats an expensive route to take. Would almost pay me to buy another kit to keep costs to a minimum but having to use online (no model shops in swindon) there is no chance of checking before buying. Must admit not very happy with Airfix at the moment.
Contact them again, you don't have to accept a replacement that is no better than what it replaced!
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft i placed an order with Hannants for an eduard blade. As to the control surfaces they only seem available in a £34 kit that would give me parts i would not need. I will take your advice and contact Airfix again. Most issues you can workaround but these parts really would take a massive amount of effort to try and get sorted.
Why XF-85 black and not XF-1 black? I know the answer ovbiously ( 😅), but think its a valid question for a beginner.
So what is the answer? Don't keep it to yourself.
@@TheMikeCooper I'm sure Jen will elucidate. It is her guide after all. (Hint: scale.) Also, I'm no expert, and I'm being a bit cheeky just for fun.
I use it from habit, honestly. The reason most modellers use a black of this type rather than XF-1 is that it's slightly less black than .... er... black. XF-85 is a very, very dark grey and using it rather than XF-1 gives a slightly less stark finish, and leaves the opportunity to weather the finish with a more pure black if you wish. You're right, it's a fair question!