so howd you fix the 2 holes in the bowl.. i mean im guessing most are blind to them. bc they say you did a good job. not really your part has holes where holes are not suppose to be..
great job, and I admire that you thought about feeder channels and vents, but what about shrinkage? the new cover must be one percent smaller than the old one.
Good eye! The sand mold transfers details both wanted and unwanted. Where the original float bowl was damaged, the mold was left with a cavity too thin to completely fill with metal, resulting in a hole. I should have repaired the original with some type of filler before using it as a pattern. My buddy was not interested in a redo. He patched the hole with some JB weld epoxy and has been using it since.
It's a pretty low stress part. You could have a completely incompetent welder fill that hole without issue. You could probably even let a drunk with a torch and a brazing rod fix it with the same result.
Do you think that your spoon to remove the dross might be a Tweenies weenie bit short? Looks like your fingers might get a bit singed, great content and information to, thanks for showing us this way to cast alloys...👍
I was given a few hundred pounds of new Petrobond and tried it a few times. Never saw a lot of difference in the casting finish compared to my sand-bentonite-water castings but hated the feel of it and the stink and smoke made up my mind pretty quick...
I have never had a chance to try greensand but would probably switch if I had enough room in the shop for a muller. PB has always done me well but the 'oil base' gets real annoying with bronze and cast iron. $$$ too.
Sorry, I dont have any actual measurements. As expected, the bolt holes were off but only required drilling with a slightly over size drill bit to correct the fit. According to a Google search of 'aluminum shrinkage' the consensus of many is to expect 1-2% shrinkage. Wiki lists 6%, I've never experienced that much. 'Metalcasting' by C.W. Ammen says an Aluminum 'Shrink Ruler' is marked 1/4" per foot(about 2%). One thing to keep in mind about 'manual' sand casting: When removing the pattern from the mold, rapping and shaking can easily add a percent or two. This can compensate for the shrinkage but with a loss of precision.
OK so let's do some math then. 3/16" in 12 inches shrinkage. The float bowl is just under 3 inches in it's largest dimension. 12" divided by 3" is 4. That should mean a shrinkage of 3/64" in 3 inches. 3/64" = 0.0469" or about 1.17mm. The result is a float bowl just over a millimeter smaller than the original in it's largest dimension. That assumes that I was able to remove the pattern from the mold without shaking or twisting it, thus enlarging the cavity and resulting casting.
Impressive. I was taught in my 3rd year engineering material class that you always need a riser if you want to avoid macroporosity (dimples and concave areas in part). I suppose that low volume parts will not be as heavily affected by thermal contraction of the solid. Either way a cool tech tip.
Cost-benefit on something this small and simple is negligible. It has a smooth, simple structure that's probably fine without the riser, so you'd just be adding extra steps and more waste that requires additional fuel to recycle. If it had more detail, or you were doing more than a one off, then you'd probably be right about the riser. Most engineering "rules" are for a larger scale than a guy with a converted lawnmower in his backyard replacing something for his buddy on the weekend.
Nice video. I do not understand why you went to the tedious work of casting this only to end the video with drilling pressing it while holding it with your bare hand. Surely you could have made a quick makeshift 2x4 jig to avoid a possible drill bit through a finger.
Хобби
Finally a channel making something useful and not just ingots
Thanks. Necessity is the mother if invention. Ok, maybe not 'invention' in this case.
Thanks. Necessity is the mother if invention. Ok, maybe not 'invention' in this case.
I Agree with you!
I'm agree!
If you searched,or bothered searching you woudnt be commenting that. Look up MyFordboy
Thank you so much for not yammering on. I can't stand most of the nonstop talking from so many of the folks on RUclips.
You did an excellent job. You are resourceful in many ways which gets the job done, good work repurposing the lawnmower deck. Thank you for sharing.
Where was this video 5 years ago when I needed it. I ended up cutting one from billet aluminum! Thanks for posting
Excellent, great job!I dig the roll out smelter.
Huh. My lawnmower didn't come with that attachment option...
That's awesome! I was looking for a video on how to cast hollow/relief pieces like this
Kickass, love the lawnmower too.
Love the use of the old mower epic
Thank you for your sharing. Very good sand casting process video, i learnt more from your video.
I think this may be the best quality of DIY casting on RUclips. You can even see the numbers(sorta) in the aluminum. Really good job
Thanks. Petrobond uses such a fine mesh sand that it does an incredible job of reproducing detail.
Thank you will remember this for future casting work.
great job!
Absolutely amazing
A Jack of All Trades and a MASTER at Some 👍😎
P.S.
Love the hotrod mower ❤
Great job. I must try doing something like that:)
You sir... Are a genius.
Great job
great work .
Excellent video, I noticed the sand mix you used was very fine, tricky bit of casting well done Regards Doc Cox
Thanks. The sand is an oil/resin based casting sand called Petrobond.
Bravo, steady hands
Awesome job!
Thanks
busted out laughing at your lawnmower.. it's awesome ;)
impressive. cheers.
well done!
so howd you fix the 2 holes in the bowl.. i mean im guessing most are blind to them. bc they say you did a good job. not really your part has holes where holes are not suppose to be..
JB weld damnit! Shhhhh 😆
Nice job!
Thanks
Since you didn't have pattern, but used the part to make a replica, didn't the cast aluminum shrink?
What's that white starf that you put ontop off that cover .is that wood ash or flour .its cool the way its separates the sand
Excellent
great job, and I admire that you thought about feeder channels and vents, but what about shrinkage? the new cover must be one percent smaller than the old one.
Hi, could you tell what the 4 sticks were for?
Genius
Superb! I want to try this on a chrome plastic tail lite grill from my vstar 1100 not made anymore.just polish and clear coat .if it's not to thin.lol
شو نوعيت هل مادة يلي عم تستعملها من اجل الصب
Saludos desde Colombia, muy buen video me gustaría saber que clase de arena o tierra utilizas?
great ... i have to do something for my bike .. is a little piece ..
what is the ''petrobond ??? '' and where i get. .. cheers ..
Молодец,круто!
Nice! Bu did the bowl get installed and work?
Thanks. The casting did have a small hole in it that we patched with JB weld but it was installed and worked well.
Great job. Love the repurposed mower...lol. But your casting...has a hole in it.
Good eye! The sand mold transfers details both wanted and unwanted. Where the original float bowl was damaged, the mold was left with a cavity too thin to completely fill with metal, resulting in a hole. I should have repaired the original with some type of filler before using it as a pattern.
My buddy was not interested in a redo. He patched the hole with some JB weld epoxy and has been using it since.
It's a pretty low stress part. You could have a completely incompetent welder fill that hole without issue. You could probably even let a drunk with a torch and a brazing rod fix it with the same result.
Enjoying the Crisis this made me literally laugh out loud
Do you think that your spoon to remove the dross might be a Tweenies weenie bit short? Looks like your fingers might get a bit singed, great content and information to, thanks for showing us this way to cast alloys...👍
Hi
I know this is old but have you done a 1993 Johnson 150 they warp all the time
I was given a few hundred pounds of new Petrobond and tried it a few times. Never saw a lot of difference in the casting finish compared to my sand-bentonite-water castings but hated the feel of it and the stink and smoke made up my mind pretty quick...
I have never had a chance to try greensand but would probably switch if I had enough room in the shop for a muller. PB has always done me well but the 'oil base' gets real annoying with bronze and cast iron. $$$ too.
Awesome bro..
Can you make motorcycle gas tank ?
how bad was the shrinkage of the casted piece?
Sorry, I dont have any actual measurements. As expected, the bolt holes were off but only required drilling with a slightly over size drill bit to correct the fit.
According to a Google search of 'aluminum shrinkage' the consensus of many is to expect 1-2% shrinkage.
Wiki lists 6%, I've never experienced that much. 'Metalcasting' by C.W. Ammen says an Aluminum 'Shrink Ruler' is marked 1/4" per foot(about 2%).
One thing to keep in mind about 'manual' sand casting: When removing the pattern from the mold, rapping and shaking can easily add a percent or two. This can compensate for the shrinkage but with a loss of precision.
The word 'awesome' is much mis-used these days.
That was fuckin awesome.
Love yer lawnmower smelter!!
;-))
Which oil to miz petrobind
Looks like the cast replacement has holes where the damage was on the original at 11:44
What metal did u use?
Aluminum
Your mobile furnace is fucking genius!
nice
what is the tickness of wall of this piece?
I did not measure with calipers but approximately 1/8 in.(3-4mm) at its thinnest.
Helps if you preheat the mold before you pour.
Even with Petrobond?
Is that a Vintage Craftsman drill press??
indeed! 150 floor model. Its a hole boring, face milling, cope and drag splitting, wood mortising animal!
I thought I recognized those red handles! :-D
Sand name is ?
Liked the video, could of used some narration though, even if in post.
hill or stream
casting aluminium in the air like this makes it porous so it will not last very long as a float bowl unless treated somehow
I am a patternmaker. Aluminum has a shrink rate of 3/16" per foot.You didn't compensate for that. There must be some very loose tolerances on the KTM.
OK so let's do some math then. 3/16" in 12 inches shrinkage. The float bowl is just under 3 inches in it's largest dimension. 12" divided by 3" is 4. That should mean a shrinkage of 3/64" in 3 inches. 3/64" = 0.0469" or about 1.17mm. The result is a float bowl just over a millimeter smaller than the original in it's largest dimension. That assumes that I was able to remove the pattern from the mold without shaking or twisting it, thus enlarging the cavity and resulting casting.
Show
joss
Говорит зачем мне прокладка? Отолью вместе с ней :)
Are all these casters mute? Why can't they speak?
no sound?
Just the sound of silence.
+L Helbock good thing happend ..
sprue size = savagely small
Good job anyways.
kdmq thanks, I've found that on smaller pieces, a 5/8" sprue allows me to keep a good choke but doesn't require a riser if well vented.
Impressive. I was taught in my 3rd year engineering material class that you always need a riser if you want to avoid macroporosity (dimples and concave areas in part). I suppose that low volume parts will not be as heavily affected by thermal contraction of the solid. Either way a cool tech tip.
Cost-benefit on something this small and simple is negligible. It has a smooth, simple structure that's probably fine without the riser, so you'd just be adding extra steps and more waste that requires additional fuel to recycle. If it had more detail, or you were doing more than a one off, then you'd probably be right about the riser. Most engineering "rules" are for a larger scale than a guy with a converted lawnmower in his backyard replacing something for his buddy on the weekend.
08:01
01:55
12:33
There is no way that part fit.
Man, put some dust down!
Right of the bat, THUMBS DOWN!
...SHEESH! 😕
Idiot
why no explaining as you go? to many video's with no narration.
Pictures and video cross language barriers easier. I will admit however that this is one of my worst videos and was never meant to be a 'how to'.
Nice video. I do not understand why you went to the tedious work of casting this only to end the video with drilling pressing it while holding it with your bare hand. Surely you could have made a quick makeshift 2x4 jig to avoid a possible drill bit through a finger.
It's clamped to the table and even if it wasn't the danger would be from the part spinning not getting a bit through the finger.
Sound... no sound... sound... no sound... WTF?
The sound guy has been sacked. I promise it won't happen again.
Haha.. okay. Good video though... just couldn't hear anything.
02:27
10:27
12:55