Are you sure you can't primer over zinc? It will stay in the scratches of old rust damage and neutralize it as it tries to re-rust. Ive applied single stage urethane primer over zinc on a few vehicles and haven't had one fail......yet. I brush muratic acid on the area. Then wire brush it before spray zinc. Then sand the zinc before priming. I don't even use anything fancy, just standard muratic from the hardware store and Crown 7007 spray. If you use Phosphate Acid it will bond to the iron oxide but is more expensive. You are doing great, you may end up with the only BMW that will last forever.
Cheers Walki! Thanks for the info! The main reason it needs to go is because its a weld through primer and not a zinc phosphate type. Also the epoxy primer must go straight onto the bare metal so it can mechanically bond to it and do it's thing properly. I preger epoxy primer now as its so durable and thick. Thanks again!
This is a weld through primer designed to protect bare metal while you weld and can also be used after like I did, but its not the best Idea as its not designed to be overcoated. The main reason it needs to go is because the epoxy primer must go directly on to bare metal. Cheers!
@@RestoreItthere's a specially designed product called pops-a-dent that is far easier and better at removing dents than what you were using. Plus, it's relatively low cost.
@@RestoreItif you only use the zinc primer when you are done with welding, why not put on the epoxy primer at that point? is it because of planning to do more welding?
Well done Steve, coming along great now. You're right to take the weld-through off. I've tested it and although zinc rich it has very poor adhesion. Also, just my opinion, but any coating that can easily be removed with thinners, including most etch primers which are 1K products, are suspect for a long lasting paint job. You can't beat the epoxy, really good adhesion, particularly if the metal has been sanded to 80 grit. I love the finger sanders, but beware, they remove a lot of material very quickly.
Thank you, Bob! Great advice as always. I think i'll be going straight to epoxy in the future, just skips a step. And you're spot on with the finger sander... very powerful but its so easy to go too far.. I'm very careful with it these days.
The tape at the bottom of the screen aperture could be Teflon tape - Some car manufacturers used to use this to prevent thumb nail in the screen when fitting them - if you get a thumb nail on the screen it may be hidden behind the seal but a crack would propagate into a crack and that's a warranty claim.
I don't know if it'll be the same with the special glue sticks, as it is for normal ones, but with normal ones you can use isopropyl alcohol to remove it pretty easily. Might save the paint work from the blade if you ever need to do it again.
I think, in the corners you have the most Water when the car is standing in the Rain, and it flows down the seal and stays in the Corners, and when you drive fast the Water is coming in like you use a Powerwasher. The Wind is lifting up the under Lip from the Seal.
I recommend you to use NOVOL Bodywork Primer - it's temporary protection, like zinc you used but you dont need to clean this off after, just put epoxy on it. Also its fully weldable, like zinc or copper spray.
Another great video mate! When you were spraying the primer, I was just waiting for you to say "So, I got a bit more carried away and just decided to spray the whole car" hahaha. Truly love what you do mate! Can't wait for the next one! Big fan here in Australia!!
Thanks, mate! Well, you were right to think that, because I was holding off doing that the whole time! haha. It was so temping, but would have been overkill for this one. I'm glad you're enjoying it! Cheers!
For the future … the “finger sander” is making more work for yourself and your painter. I suggest using 1” and smaller sanding discs on a rotary tool, Dremel, or a mini random orbit. You won’t gouge the body like you see here in the dent removal shots.
I think I told you before, your videos are so entertaining and your work is awesome! I own a 1987 325e and your videos make me want to work more on my car, keep it up
I always thought that I could restore my car, but unfortunately circumstances developed in such a way that, alas, I was unable to do this. But Roman just goes and does it, I'm very happy for you and my friend.I hope that someday I can fulfill my dream like you. Good luck to you, you are just great! 👍👋
I used one of those glue dent pullers to fix the hail damage on my nephew's Corolla. It took me nearly all day but I had to do the whole upper surface of the car. I got 95% of the dents out completely and the remainder I reduced significantly. I was very proud of my effort as should you be will all the work you are doing. BTW, my nephew was suitably impressed with aunty Pauline's repair job. 😊👍
@@RestoreIt Parts of Australia get severe hail storms every now and then and the hailstones can be like golf balls. They break windscreens. I haven't experienced one thank goodness!
Thanks for this update. Great episode, and shows your attention to detail.
Hi Steve, to remove the hot glue, generously squirt on Isopropyl alcohol. It slides off like butter.
Enjoying the series. Keep it up.
Hey dude, I defo should have done that. Cheers!
White paint in the interior looks great! I'd made the whole interior in white.
I may do it, brushing it on is so easy and it adds so much protection.
Excellent balance between information and entertainment. It adds extra value to your content.❤️❤️❤️ * ⁉️'
Thanks, Marvin! I'm trying to make the car episodes more snappy and to the point. The single topic thing really helps with that as well.
Use washing liquid on windscreens etc (when in a rubber) or if you want to make it even easier use green swariega
I was going to do this, but a few people mentioned that it has a high salt content and will cause rust down the line.
Are you sure you can't primer over zinc? It will stay in the scratches of old rust damage and neutralize it as it tries to re-rust. Ive applied single stage urethane primer over zinc on a few vehicles and haven't had one fail......yet. I brush muratic acid on the area. Then wire brush it before spray zinc. Then sand the zinc before priming. I don't even use anything fancy, just standard muratic from the hardware store and Crown 7007 spray. If you use Phosphate Acid it will bond to the iron oxide but is more expensive. You are doing great, you may end up with the only BMW that will last forever.
Cheers Walki! Thanks for the info! The main reason it needs to go is because its a weld through primer and not a zinc phosphate type. Also the epoxy primer must go straight onto the bare metal so it can mechanically bond to it and do it's thing properly. I preger epoxy primer now as its so durable and thick. Thanks again!
loved the 80s synth background music. very fitting for this project
Thanks, RLN!
For someone who is a bit ignorant about paint, why can't zinc rich primer be painted over?
I’m assuming the paint can’t attach properly with zinc primer and it just runs.
This is a weld through primer designed to protect bare metal while you weld and can also be used after like I did, but its not the best Idea as its not designed to be overcoated. The main reason it needs to go is because the epoxy primer must go directly on to bare metal. Cheers!
@@RestoreIt wow learnt something new today 👌🏻
@@RestoreItthere's a specially designed product called pops-a-dent that is far easier and better at removing dents than what you were using. Plus, it's relatively low cost.
@@RestoreItif you only use the zinc primer when you are done with welding, why not put on the epoxy primer at that point? is it because of planning to do more welding?
Well done Steve, coming along great now. You're right to take the weld-through off. I've tested it and although zinc rich it has very poor adhesion. Also, just my opinion, but any coating that can easily be removed with thinners, including most etch primers which are 1K products, are suspect for a long lasting paint job. You can't beat the epoxy, really good adhesion, particularly if the metal has been sanded to 80 grit. I love the finger sanders, but beware, they remove a lot of material very quickly.
Thank you, Bob! Great advice as always. I think i'll be going straight to epoxy in the future, just skips a step. And you're spot on with the finger sander... very powerful but its so easy to go too far.. I'm very careful with it these days.
The tape at the bottom of the screen aperture could be Teflon tape - Some car manufacturers used to use this to prevent thumb nail in the screen when fitting them - if you get a thumb nail on the screen it may be hidden behind the seal but a crack would propagate into a crack and that's a warranty claim.
Oh i see, interesting. Cheers, datsunruss!
I don't know if it'll be the same with the special glue sticks, as it is for normal ones, but with normal ones you can use isopropyl alcohol to remove it pretty easily. Might save the paint work from the blade if you ever need to do it again.
Absolutely correct, I should have just used ISO the whole time. Cheers!
I would have definitely masked or at least covered the dashboard months ago.
Not a bad suggestion!
I would epoxy prime the interior as well.
I did some, but yes I think I might do the whole thing...
💪😎👍
👍👍
Do you know the North American equivalent/supplier for the Quartz brand products you use?
I'm afraid I don't. However I think you can order Quartz products to the US from the UK from spraygunsdirect. Cheers!
I do expect my comment on Ground News to be deleted!
The second dent has really disappeared, didn't expected that from some hot glue sticks and plastic mushrooms...
😯👍👍
I was shocked!
Can you use BMW's Toronto Red Metallic exterior paint?
I'm afraid It's going back to factory colour
Primer on top of the old paint... I don't like this. IMHO this car would have deserved a complete pain removal.
Epoxy primer on correctly prepped original paint is a very common thing and is perfect for the job. The 325i Sport will be fully coated in epoxy.
Like any vehicle, if you don't maintain and look after it, it's going to fail.
Very true!
I think, in the corners you have the most Water when the car is standing in the Rain, and it flows down the seal and stays in the Corners, and when you drive fast the Water is coming in like you use a Powerwasher. The Wind is lifting up the under Lip from the Seal.
Yes good points there, cheers!
Good comment but why the random capitals in water, rain, wind, corners, lip, seal and power washer?
@@jackn4853 Bad English
I recommend you to use NOVOL Bodywork Primer - it's temporary protection, like zinc you used but you dont need to clean this off after, just put epoxy on it. Also its fully weldable, like zinc or copper spray.
Coming along nicely, long, detailed work👍👍
Another great video mate! When you were spraying the primer, I was just waiting for you to say "So, I got a bit more carried away and just decided to spray the whole car" hahaha. Truly love what you do mate! Can't wait for the next one! Big fan here in Australia!!
Thanks, mate! Well, you were right to think that, because I was holding off doing that the whole time! haha. It was so temping, but would have been overkill for this one. I'm glad you're enjoying it! Cheers!
For the future … the “finger sander” is making more work for yourself and your painter. I suggest using 1” and smaller sanding discs on a rotary tool, Dremel, or a mini random orbit. You won’t gouge the body like you see here in the dent removal shots.
What's that cream colored epoxy primer you're using? I really like that color
Cool 😎
Thanks mate!
Awesome job as always. Which bodywork glue sticks did you buy as I have exactly the same issue?
Perfect! Can't wait for paint work done!
Cheers!!
I think I told you before, your videos are so entertaining and your work is awesome! I own a 1987 325e and your videos make me want to work more on my car, keep it up
Thanks for the lovely comment, Luis! I'm really glad you're enjoying it.
Love the vids one day im gonna build my own e30👍🏼
Bro I wish I was as patient as you, you done such a great work it is really inspiring.
I always thought that I could restore my car, but unfortunately circumstances developed in such a way that, alas, I was unable to do this. But Roman just goes and does it, I'm very happy for you and my friend.I hope that someday I can fulfill my dream like you. Good luck to you, you are just great! 👍👋
I used one of those glue dent pullers to fix the hail damage on my nephew's Corolla. It took me nearly all day but I had to do the whole upper surface of the car. I got 95% of the dents out completely and the remainder I reduced significantly. I was very proud of my effort as should you be will all the work you are doing. BTW, my nephew was suitably impressed with aunty Pauline's repair job. 😊👍
Oh wow, that must have been some big hail! It sounds like you had a lot more to do than me, so well done! I'd be proud as well. Thanks, Pauline!
@@RestoreIt Parts of Australia get severe hail storms every now and then and the hailstones can be like golf balls. They break windscreens. I haven't experienced one thank goodness!
So much work, keep it up! 💪
So much for only 14 mins of video :D haha Cheers!
Deseando verlo!!!
Cheers!
Love watching you work😁
Glad you're enjoying it!
Do you think you can use the dent puller without damaging the paint ?
100% yes