I always liked these kind of boats. Built a large one myself years ago with multiple coaxial motors (two sets). In my opinion, you should not mess with your original design in order to get it to skim on the water. When you increase your throttle further, you will have a tendency for the rear to want to lift out from the water due to your motor being mounted horizontally (parallel to your hull). The motor will induce a substantial torque on your frame, something you will experience once you open up the throttle. Looking forward to see where this goes. ; )
James I appreciate your honesty and how genuine your videos are, I can see how nervous and excited you are each time you test something for the first time. I know exactly how you feel, when you rushed the last part of something complicated and when it starts going a little wrong you just want to go ahead and keep trying anyway! Crashed quite a few experimental RC planes that way. Anyway, thank you for the beautiful filming, editing, and workmanship. Love the use of the laser cutter. So much more professional-looking afterward than 3D printing although everything has limitations and uses. Looking forward to part 2!
Cool project! My thoughts.... - place the motors side by side to avoid efficiency losses - place motors as low as possible to have thrust line more in line with CoM (reduce pushing nose down) - place motors as rearward as possible (same reason as above, plus counterweights the nose being pushed down) - move sponsons forward so that less of the torque due to thrust goes into pushing them downward - use aero rudder and maybe even elevator to trim for desired pitch, if you get anywhere near 100mph these will become quite effective (not sure if this is against the rules though...) - maybe widen rear skid? - maybe rotate sponsons (pitch) a bit so that the angle between their bottom surface and the water is as shallow as possible at the target speed - the further rear-ward the in-water rudder can be placed, the more effective it will be for the same drag You mentioned in a comment that you wanted a pair of CW/CCW props, but I doubt it will matter. It doesn't even matter much on a plane which has no (relatively) solid water surface to steady itself against. Just use two-bladed props of the highest pitch you have available. Regarding weight distribution, I pondered this a bit and it seems to me that you probably want to have equal 'loading' (g/cm2) for each of the three support points. But I don't know for sure, and it would be near impossible to ensure you're getting this at the target speed anyway. That concludes todays know-it-all lecture :)
Isn’t it more efficient to have a push and a pull prop? The Mars helicopter is using in-line props and the fastest propeller plane in WWII was a late German design that had a pull prop at the front and a push propeller at the rear.
@@steviebee1989 nope, at least not when they are close together. I think the props on the DO335 were far apart enough that being inline with each other would not be such an issue, plus they weren't particularly concerned with efficiency. Mars helicopter is probably subject to a whole bunch of constraints which steered them to that format, notably the extremely thin atmosphere which requires as much blade area as possible, with smaller blades (eg. a quadro-copter) being ineffective.
Some quick reads say that contra rotation provides between 6% and 16% more efficiency than normal propellers. You also can get more thrust by using them as a "staged accelerator" by using a high pitch second prop
Im a 40 year old Father of 3 my eldest son is 10 and im showing him your video so he too can learn something and be inspired . You have good manners and i respect the fact you show your failures as well as your success Keep up the good work
I have often thought that Campbells Blue bird should have had a horizontal air stabiliser near the stern. Just as aircraft do. The problem was that it took off because it did not have aerodynamic stability like an aircraft. Although in your case the high thrust line serves to keep the nose down. What about if the thrust is reduced at high speed? Could the same happen here as happened to Campbell? Does not having all that weight and pressure from the floats ahead of the centre of gravity make it unstable if it leaves the water? Enough horizontal stabilisation behind the cg would make if fly like and arrow if it left the water instead of becoming unstable.
Tune into the next one for upgrades and speed! 😁 Mega thanks again to my Patreons for helping me with the funds to build this bad boi. www.patreon.com/jameswhomsley 🤟 Don't worry rocket and aircraft fans, I have a few smaller projects going on in the background I'm plan on scattering alongside this speed boat mini series. Thanks for watching!
The pontoons would be even more efficient if the underside was like a V-hull shape.... there would be even less friction on the water 👍 I really don’t know if it would work but it is just an idea! Great work on the build 🤙
You can add 2 rudders instead of 1....it will make it more manoeuvrable........and yeah, making the tail skid larger is a good idea...but don't make it too large...instead make the entire thing a little( JUST A LITTLE) nose heavy..... And if you want to use servos to steer the rudder, get powerful ones....cause at high speeds in water, small servos may not work.... And one more thing...I love your videos😄😄😄😄😄
You could drastically improve performance by shaping the main hull instead of leaving it as a semicircle. Love the videos. Can't wait to see the next update on it
Why not build the skids so they have less drag when tgoing fast and up off water, and more at lower speeds? mind jumps to vortex generators. Just simple triangles and then add shark fin curve, with more curviture and area at base tapering down to curved triangle tip, it could transition to flat then the flat would taper in from sides. a longer profile vs air will be needed also.
Was thinking to convert a rc car to a rc boat and was wondering how to make it really fast and then saw this video and now I know exactly how to do it! Thanks :)
I think I would add a rear aerofoil. Variable incidence, and possibly gyro stabilised by the on-board RC system. (You can use a cheap one of these from a small quad 'copter). As the speed builds, and the trim changes, you could 'fine-tune' the trim from the transmitter. Well done, and keep up the good work. Britain needs young experimental engineers like you...
A heavy duty servo for the rudder is needed & move the rudder to the centre behind the skeg. The skeg should be shaped to a symmetrical aero foil. This should eliminate drag without compromising efficiency. Great project! 👍
Only those who have driven an air / fan boats know how it feels. Love the feeling they are so special to handle! I've built two, but not this big. I think you're right, this one has alot of potential!
Hey James, make sure your props are made for max thrust at cruise speed, not max static thrust. It looks like yours are a relatively low pitch; you might want to switch to higher pitch props. You could even put a helicopter tail rotor mechanism on there for variable pitch! :D Edit: Also do seriously consider differential thrust for "rudder". Not dragging a surface under the water should help tremendously at high speeds.
Charming. 13:03 Maybe a bigger skid in the back is not solution. Maybe the CG needs to be moved forward a tad to be balance the power torque (pitch) on the three planing surfaces when underway. And as airboats steer the exhaust to turn...do that. No rudder in the water required.
Wow this guy, he is amazing, for me it was a massive achievement that i got a drone to fly first time, and this guy is out here beating world records, recreateing dam busters, making cool stuff, awesome. 😀
Great project and great video ! One little thing, your trailing edges are round on the side floats and the round belly of your main fuselage will not help break the water tension, it will keep being sucked by the water by negative pressure just like a venturi effect. Take a look at some real (vs RC) seaplane floats like the Piper J3 or else, side edges and trailing edge are straight and sharp. Just my 2cts as I struggled with the same matter designing my own RC seaplane floats a few years ago. Keep it up, always loved your channel :)
Nice work. Paint finish / rattle can..........finish is improved by warming up the surface, hair drier rather hot air gun ( ie lower temperature ), and heating the paint can ( i used to do it by putting the can in a just boiled kettle , but heard that these cans can be quite explosive , even when dropped.......but heat does help move and mix the paint ) ends up giving a better finish .
Gosh, I remember back in 1968, building an Swamp/Air Boat powered by .049 gas engine. Dad was mad when I used it to flush Geese for the holiday table, because it worked so well, and he hadn't thought of it first. LOLS
Great project James! Considering the speed record edf would be a better choise as you get far more airspeed with them. Also you will probably have some issues with water splashing into the props and slowing them down
Great job! love the blue bird. You will need a quarter scale steering servo for a hydroplane that size and put it inside the hull where it stays dry. use a waterproof boot and run a 440 rod to the rudder. Don’t ever swim after a boat without a lifejacket. I use a small rc retrieval boat with a fishing line attached to retrieve most of my dead boats. hardly ever need to use a rowboat. Keep up the good work brother!
Would you be able to go faster if you made most of the hull out of waterproof aircraft foamboard? Like the foamboard that Flite Test uses? It would make it much lighter, meaning more speed
Just in Case you dont already know after a year .When printing in vase Mode you can manipulate the Wall thickness by flow rate .Im printing some airplane parts with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase Mode at 200 percent flow which gives me 0.8mm Walls . This works very good and prints with 50mms . You need to Up the temp in My Case 235 for Pla . If you Print even hotter or slower or with a Higher nozzle you can get even thicker Walls.
bigger tail skid, dual rudder- one in water, one in the prop wash (maneuverability at low speeds), and try vase mode with a fat nozzle (say .8 at .2-.4mm layer height)
Not really. When using propellers, air can't be compressed but accelerated. Think of it as water for easier understanding. The greater pitch of the second propeller requires more airflow, than the first one can deliver. In the result, the second propeller sucks air through the first one, overspeeding the first motor and underspeeding the ladder one. It would be better if the propellers had the same pitch, and much less distance between each other. It's a bit tricky to understand. See Wiki for further information en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contra-rotating_propellers
I believe you need a rear skid (flat bottom with a slight "ramp" angle ) sloping down towards the back. This way you'll get the aft out of the water @ speeds.
Good concept! I liked the endeavor. A couple of suggestions, if I may? Perhaps an air rudder instead of a water rudder. A bit more drag in the air, but less drag in the water would more than balance out. Perhaps rounded sponsons would lessen drag by rising out of the water as water pressure on the sponson increases the faster you go, including the rear sponson. Keep going with your work. Is there a continued video? Thanks.
Here’s a crazy idea: What would motor torque differential (yaw on a quad) give you? Could it affect your turning authority by digging a pontoon (/planing the other side) in the water? Love all of your experimentation. Keep up the good work. 😁
Looks really nice, and fast. I'd seal up that nose and go for a top hatch though, one knock to the nose and it'll just fill up. Also look out for twisting on the floats, as an isolation could rip it apart.
Agreed. Might be doing some sort of mod to the nose to secure it better in the meantime and also put enough 2L drinks bottles full of air in the hull as a backup just in case something goes seriously wrong!
Really looking forward to seeing what you do next! I agree with some others here - you'll want a stronger servo and maybe dual rudders. (I'd love to know how much control you'd have with the one that scarpered. My intuition is it might have you wanting for rudder authority.) Simpler than dual rudders, an L shaped one extending father backward would provide more authority without going terribly deep to snag on things.
I've always wondered/wanted to have creators put up the cost of projects like this, for a couple reasons to show that you don't have to be rich to have fun, and my own pure curiosity of how much this stuff is to make.
Also would ducting the fans help? That or in some slicers you can use infill modifiers to change how the infill is laid out. I only mention this because you could in theory make the bottom more infill and then have the top less so it's lighter and has a lower CG
For the rear skid, you might be able to achieve the same effect as the thrust angle vectoring you mentioned you had hoped to do with the props earlier. If the skid had a pivot point on the rear of the hull, you could control the pitch angle of the craft with a servo control.
I noticed you sanding the planing surfaces. Leave the edges of the planing surfaces as sharp as possible. A curved or rounded chine edge or trailing edge will want to suck the boat down a bit. Leave any surface touching the water with a 400-600 grit finish to build a boundary layer of water. Smooth and or polished surfaces will add drag. The closer you get to the record you want to set the more important this will be. Rudder shape, size, angle, and placement will also help or hinder you. The angles on the running surfaces of the sponsons look pretty extreme as well as the transom sponson. You may want to lessen the angle and add a step forward (similar to what you see on offshore race boats or even a seaplane sponson).
Maybe have ride plates on the back of the front skids, lots of race boats have plates that are manually adjusted to balance the craft at full cook. Also this looks really cool and stay safe
Wonderful story telling and a good and honest development tale for a record aiming build. That's how it's supposed to be :-) As a composite engineer with many boat builds on my record, I can't stop wondering why you don't use fiberglass as a sealant and reinforcement material. It's practically the standard of boats today. Off course when you are coming from aerospace, the perspective is a bit different. I have been building helicopter parts for Westland in kevlar-epoxy though in the past, and many passenger planes actually use a lot of composites today. It's a new world, I know, but the effort of learning may pay off easily. Speaking of... There's a company called Easy Composites in UK, who supply composites for hobbyists. They also have some DIY videos. I have experienced that PLA and glass-epoxy works fine together. So does plywood and fiberglass! You don't need more than a 50 g/sqm woven glass mat to seal and toughen the PLA a bit. 100 g/sqm and we are talking reinforcement... Good luck! Looking forward to see the next episode :-)
I got the notification for this video on my phone assuming this was RClifeon, started it and heard Tom stanton talking, then realized i was wrong again 😂 you got a new sub man
I wonder if it would be possible to use a gyro/flight controller to stop the boat flipping if it started to pitch to far. I don't know if dialing back the power on the motors would help at that point or if it would already be too late.
first, i really like it. second, are you sure about the CG. I think its near to the rear(!) more than it has to! third, the rudder seems to be very weak for high speed boat! thanks for the video again.
Noice, very good design, but I think that having the propulsion set above the centre of mass is the biggest set back for models like these, I think if you can change the centre of thrust and have it only very slightly above the centre of mass would make it work much better, like the jet boat you show in the video would help, I know it helps how the boat works but at speeds your trying to get to you can use aerodynamics to help lift and/or push the boat into the water... yes it’s complicated and probably impossible with props and the model being at this scale but just a thought...
P.S - any one sceptical of my theory just understand that I’m still in high school and that I have a limited knowledge of aerodynamics etc. and this is just how it makes sense in my head.
P.P.S - I dabble in 3D modelling so if you want suggestions of reworked designs and they are actually feasible the I’d be happy to send some to you James... plus I’m bored so I want something to do...
ProjectAir Well I’d love too, this would be my hobby of all hobby’s but the only problem is that I don’t have an appropriate work space to do it in. Also, after actually getting some sleep I now realise that some of my reasoning was wrong, but this point still stands, have something like an EDF, I have a 3D model that I made on standby (not 3D printable, just the exterior idea and will be annotated) to show what I’m thinking, more boat shaped hull and room for an EDF.
Going to be Epic mate! Now you know why I mentioned a rear spoiler and perchance servo adjustable sponsons. A couple of quick trim adjustments and she'll plane out. Only a couple of channels to do spoiler and sponson servos (or just one to do the wing) Can't wait!
Pvc compound would have actually been good at the joint. Its potent enough to actually slightly melt and bond the tubes. Provided it doesn't hurt the wood. I'm not sure. Look at nice large rubber setups off a large-scale vhull or something. Proboat rubber from a Shockwave or Sonicwake. They work good
Great first results, i'm not going to start saying you should of don this or that, that's what R&D is all about and half the fun. keep it up bud and most important, have fun, remember he how dies with the most toys wins.
Could you have a weight inside that can be remotely moved back and forth towards the front, to pull the nose back down as it starts taking off? Could this be automated by some sort of vertical height accelerometer?
Me thinks the sponsons are too big and heavy, they don't need to be that tall mate. It is a fun project, and I can't wait to see how it unfolds, good luck!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
You are so underrated
Feel free to share my stuff 😉
I'm absolutely agreed
@@Project-Air Haha!
S.t.u.p.i.d
Yep
"Might get a wet foot here"
_puts entire shoe underwater_
Love the video man! Great project and can't wait to see more
😂😂
@@Project-Air maybe a pair of rubber boats and a small rubber dingy(boat) would be nice to invest in.
I always liked these kind of boats. Built a large one myself years ago with multiple coaxial motors (two sets). In my opinion, you should not mess with your original design in order to get it to skim on the water. When you increase your throttle further, you will have a tendency for the rear to want to lift out from the water due to your motor being mounted horizontally (parallel to your hull). The motor will induce a substantial torque on your frame, something you will experience once you open up the throttle.
Looking forward to see where this goes. ; )
Nose weight
I believe by installing two smaller pontoons on the rear of the boat will enhance the performance
Silver soldering for brass-to-brass. Get a beefy servo for high resistance in water.
Gumboots.
Excellent Idea
Great work, need to improve on "winging it" and look at areas where you could efficiently make the structure stronger and more homogeneous for V2.
Ya what VolV8 said👍👍
James I appreciate your honesty and how genuine your videos are, I can see how nervous and excited you are each time you test something for the first time.
I know exactly how you feel, when you rushed the last part of something complicated and when it starts going a little wrong you just want to go ahead and keep trying anyway!
Crashed quite a few experimental RC planes that way.
Anyway, thank you for the beautiful filming, editing, and workmanship.
Love the use of the laser cutter. So much more professional-looking afterward than 3D printing although everything has limitations and uses.
Looking forward to part 2!
Cool project! My thoughts....
- place the motors side by side to avoid efficiency losses
- place motors as low as possible to have thrust line more in line with CoM (reduce pushing nose down)
- place motors as rearward as possible (same reason as above, plus counterweights the nose being pushed down)
- move sponsons forward so that less of the torque due to thrust goes into pushing them downward
- use aero rudder and maybe even elevator to trim for desired pitch, if you get anywhere near 100mph these will become quite effective (not sure if this is against the rules though...)
- maybe widen rear skid?
- maybe rotate sponsons (pitch) a bit so that the angle between their bottom surface and the water is as shallow as possible at the target speed
- the further rear-ward the in-water rudder can be placed, the more effective it will be for the same drag
You mentioned in a comment that you wanted a pair of CW/CCW props, but I doubt it will matter. It doesn't even matter much on a plane which has no (relatively) solid water surface to steady itself against. Just use two-bladed props of the highest pitch you have available.
Regarding weight distribution, I pondered this a bit and it seems to me that you probably want to have equal 'loading' (g/cm2) for each of the three support points. But I don't know for sure, and it would be near impossible to ensure you're getting this at the target speed anyway.
That concludes todays know-it-all lecture :)
Isn’t it more efficient to have a push and a pull prop? The Mars helicopter is using in-line props and the fastest propeller plane in WWII was a late German design that had a pull prop at the front and a push propeller at the rear.
@@steviebee1989 nope, at least not when they are close together. I think the props on the DO335 were far apart enough that being inline with each other would not be such an issue, plus they weren't particularly concerned with efficiency. Mars helicopter is probably subject to a whole bunch of constraints which steered them to that format, notably the extremely thin atmosphere which requires as much blade area as possible, with smaller blades (eg. a quadro-copter) being ineffective.
Oh shit you're here!
Lovely content you make as well, New zealander.
Some quick reads say that contra rotation provides between 6% and 16% more efficiency than normal propellers. You also can get more thrust by using them as a "staged accelerator" by using a high pitch second prop
Im a 40 year old Father of 3 my eldest son is 10 and im showing him your video so he too can learn something and be inspired .
You have good manners and i respect the fact you show your failures as well as your success
Keep up the good work
if you are making a mark two of this,i suggest using the 'ground effect'.
Project Air is the type of guy to always lose his rudder.
That was great, good choice on colour, the bluebirds speed records motivated so many people into engineering. I think it's a fine tribute to Donald!
I have often thought that Campbells Blue bird should have had a horizontal air stabiliser near the stern. Just as aircraft do. The problem was that it took off because it did not have aerodynamic stability like an aircraft. Although in your case the high thrust line serves to keep the nose down. What about if the thrust is reduced at high speed? Could the same happen here as happened to Campbell? Does not having all that weight and pressure from the floats ahead of the centre of gravity make it unstable if it leaves the water? Enough horizontal stabilisation behind the cg would make if fly like and arrow if it left the water instead of becoming unstable.
Tune into the next one for upgrades and speed! 😁 Mega thanks again to my Patreons for helping me with the funds to build this bad boi. www.patreon.com/jameswhomsley 🤟 Don't worry rocket and aircraft fans, I have a few smaller projects going on in the background I'm plan on scattering alongside this speed boat mini series. Thanks for watching!
The pontoons would be even more efficient if the underside was like a V-hull shape.... there would be even less friction on the water 👍 I really don’t know if it would work but it is just an idea! Great work on the build 🤙
@@felixleveille8441 Thanks! I'm going to be adding planing shoes that are angled to a point. ☺️
You can add 2 rudders instead of 1....it will make it more manoeuvrable........and yeah, making the tail skid larger is a good idea...but don't make it too large...instead make the entire thing a little( JUST A LITTLE) nose heavy..... And if you want to use servos to steer the rudder, get powerful ones....cause at high speeds in water, small servos may not work....
And one more thing...I love your videos😄😄😄😄😄
Wow! That's really impressive! Your projects are always so cool!
You could drastically improve performance by shaping the main hull instead of leaving it as a semicircle. Love the videos. Can't wait to see the next update on it
I always love rc type channels
Why not build the skids so they have less drag when tgoing fast and up off water, and more at lower speeds?
mind jumps to vortex generators.
Just simple triangles and then add shark fin curve, with more curviture and area at base tapering down to curved triangle tip, it could transition to flat then the flat would taper in from sides. a longer profile vs air will be needed also.
Was thinking to convert a rc car to a rc boat and was wondering how to make it really fast and then saw this video and now I know exactly how to do it! Thanks :)
I think I would add a rear aerofoil. Variable incidence, and possibly gyro stabilised by the on-board RC system. (You can use a cheap one of these from a small quad 'copter). As the speed builds, and the trim changes, you could 'fine-tune' the trim from the transmitter. Well done, and keep up the good work. Britain needs young experimental engineers like you...
A heavy duty servo for the rudder is needed & move the rudder to the centre behind the skeg. The skeg should be shaped to a symmetrical aero foil. This should eliminate drag without compromising efficiency. Great project! 👍
Only those who have driven an air / fan boats know how it feels. Love the feeling they are so special to handle! I've built two, but not this big. I think you're right, this one has alot of potential!
Thanks!
Hey James, make sure your props are made for max thrust at cruise speed, not max static thrust. It looks like yours are a relatively low pitch; you might want to switch to higher pitch props.
You could even put a helicopter tail rotor mechanism on there for variable pitch! :D
Edit: Also do seriously consider differential thrust for "rudder". Not dragging a surface under the water should help tremendously at high speeds.
You deserve more subscribers. Your projects are awesome!
Thank you ☺️
Couldn't agree more.
Hi nice video , if you put one propeller on the left side and the other on the right side you can eliminate the boat rudder and seal the bottom .
Nice brother👍👍👍
Charming.
13:03 Maybe a bigger skid in the back is not solution. Maybe the CG needs to be moved forward a tad to be balance the power torque (pitch) on the three planing surfaces when underway. And as airboats steer the exhaust to turn...do that. No rudder in the water required.
Wow this guy, he is amazing, for me it was a massive achievement that i got a drone to fly first time, and this guy is out here beating world records, recreateing dam busters, making cool stuff, awesome. 😀
Pretty fantastic work, James! 😃
Looking forward to the the improvements! 😃
Stay safe there! 🖖😊
you are so good to make this video, i like it so much
i dont care how old these videos are they are all so good
Great project and great video ! One little thing, your trailing edges are round on the side floats and the round belly of your main fuselage will not help break the water tension, it will keep being sucked by the water by negative pressure just like a venturi effect. Take a look at some real (vs RC) seaplane floats like the Piper J3 or else, side edges and trailing edge are straight and sharp. Just my 2cts as I struggled with the same matter designing my own RC seaplane floats a few years ago. Keep it up, always loved your channel :)
3:13 his other planes start to get excited about the new project.
Don't stop developing it. Great potential.
Great video man. That back ride plate looks like it’s pretty steeply angled. May want to round it a little so the approach angle is better.
Nice work. Paint finish / rattle can..........finish is improved by warming up the surface, hair drier rather hot air gun ( ie lower temperature ), and heating the paint can ( i used to do it by putting the can in a just boiled kettle , but heard that these cans can be quite explosive , even when dropped.......but heat does help move and mix the paint ) ends up giving a better finish .
Gosh, I remember back in 1968, building an Swamp/Air Boat powered by .049 gas engine. Dad was mad when I used it to flush Geese for the holiday table, because it worked so well, and he hadn't thought of it first. LOLS
Underrated asf!
Great project James! Considering the speed record edf would be a better choise as you get far more airspeed with them. Also you will probably have some issues with water splashing into the props and slowing them down
Great job! love the blue bird. You will need a quarter scale steering servo for a hydroplane that size and put it inside the hull where it stays dry. use a waterproof boot and run a 440 rod to the rudder. Don’t ever swim after a boat without a lifejacket. I use a small rc retrieval boat with a fishing line attached to retrieve most of my dead boats. hardly ever need to use a rowboat. Keep up the good work brother!
Would you be able to go faster if you made most of the hull out of waterproof aircraft foamboard? Like the foamboard that Flite Test uses? It would make it much lighter, meaning more speed
I've never seen ur vids but 1:00 minute in I already want more. Keep going strong
Thanks for the kind words!
Same here, just sub'ed
Just in Case you dont already know after a year .When printing in vase Mode you can manipulate the Wall thickness by flow rate .Im printing some airplane parts with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase Mode at 200 percent flow which gives me 0.8mm Walls . This works very good and prints with 50mms . You need to Up the temp in My Case 235 for Pla . If you Print even hotter or slower or with a Higher nozzle you can get even thicker Walls.
Crazy big. Looks awesome!!
You should for an engineering company bro. Your contents are legit. You are underrated, you deserve more. God Bless you always
bigger tail skid, dual rudder- one in water, one in the prop wash (maneuverability at low speeds), and try vase mode with a fat nozzle (say .8 at .2-.4mm layer height)
3:17 very clever to do that, great idea
Not really.
When using propellers, air can't be compressed but accelerated. Think of it as water for easier understanding. The greater pitch of the second propeller requires more airflow, than the first one can deliver. In the result, the second propeller sucks air through the first one, overspeeding the first motor and underspeeding the ladder one.
It would be better if the propellers had the same pitch, and much less distance between each other.
It's a bit tricky to understand. See Wiki for further information en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contra-rotating_propellers
I still dont understand how you only have 30K subs, you deserve so much more man
I believe you need a rear skid (flat bottom with a slight "ramp" angle ) sloping down towards the back. This way you'll get the aft out of the water @ speeds.
Wow! I love ur technique. Simple sturdy
Good concept! I liked the endeavor. A couple of suggestions, if I may? Perhaps an air rudder instead of a water rudder. A bit more drag in the air, but less drag in the water would more than balance out. Perhaps rounded sponsons would lessen drag by rising out of the water as water pressure on the sponson increases the faster you go, including the rear sponson. Keep going with your work. Is there a continued video? Thanks.
Maybe add a small shallow fixed position fan to the bottom of the left and right pontoon would greatly help your steering.
Great video ! You should put a cone at the rear to reduce drag
Super nice video and pretty awesome build
Make sure the edges where the boat comes up on plane sharp. Rounded edges create suction
I really enjoyed your video and all the work you put into your boat. It takes lots of trials but you will get it. Hang in there.
Here’s a crazy idea:
What would motor torque differential (yaw on a quad) give you? Could it affect your turning authority by digging a pontoon (/planing the other side) in the water?
Love all of your experimentation. Keep up the good work. 😁
Interesting idea! Thanks for watching :)
Ooooooooo I have been waiting for this since I saw the first one. Legend!
Just subscribed. Can’t wait to see what’s next!
Looks really nice, and fast. I'd seal up that nose and go for a top hatch though, one knock to the nose and it'll just fill up. Also look out for twisting on the floats, as an isolation could rip it apart.
Agreed. Might be doing some sort of mod to the nose to secure it better in the meantime and also put enough 2L drinks bottles full of air in the hull as a backup just in case something goes seriously wrong!
Really looking forward to seeing what you do next! I agree with some others here - you'll want a stronger servo and maybe dual rudders. (I'd love to know how much control you'd have with the one that scarpered. My intuition is it might have you wanting for rudder authority.) Simpler than dual rudders, an L shaped one extending father backward would provide more authority without going terribly deep to snag on things.
Looking forward to a working model. Truly incredible 👍🍻
Basing the design off a boat that flipped over & crashed is pretty brave ;) Anyways, cool project 👍
Awesome video, can't wait for the next one!
Very cool James 👍
*Takes boat out of the water*
Ducks: "Yay finally!"
I've always wondered/wanted to have creators put up the cost of projects like this, for a couple reasons to show that you don't have to be rich to have fun, and my own pure curiosity of how much this stuff is to make.
Also would ducting the fans help? That or in some slicers you can use infill modifiers to change how the infill is laid out.
I only mention this because you could in theory make the bottom more infill and then have the top less so it's lighter and has a lower CG
This reminds me of the PBRs we use to take up the Mekong. I sold the parts for scrap after the war and used it to start my very own tomato empire
Really great video and project. Yes very excited to see the changes and the next video!
your channel is so professional and you deserve way more subs! nice scenery too. keep up the good work
Thank you!
For the rear skid, you might be able to achieve the same effect as the thrust angle vectoring you mentioned you had hoped to do with the props earlier. If the skid had a pivot point on the rear of the hull, you could control the pitch angle of the craft with a servo control.
I noticed you sanding the planing surfaces. Leave the edges of the planing surfaces as sharp as possible. A curved or rounded chine edge or trailing edge will want to suck the boat down a bit. Leave any surface touching the water with a 400-600 grit finish to build a boundary layer of water. Smooth and or polished surfaces will add drag. The closer you get to the record you want to set the more important this will be. Rudder shape, size, angle, and placement will also help or hinder you. The angles on the running surfaces of the sponsons look pretty extreme as well as the transom sponson. You may want to lessen the angle and add a step forward (similar to what you see on offshore race boats or even a seaplane sponson).
Great vids. Small ask/suggestion. Please arrange playlists so that when it is played the vids come out in correct viewing order - part 1, part 2, etc.
Maybe have ride plates on the back of the front skids, lots of race boats have plates that are manually adjusted to balance the craft at full cook. Also this looks really cool and stay safe
looks like a great start! lovely colour.
Wonderful story telling and a good and honest development tale for a record aiming build. That's how it's supposed to be :-) As a composite engineer with many boat builds on my record, I can't stop wondering why you don't use fiberglass as a sealant and reinforcement material. It's practically the standard of boats today. Off course when you are coming from aerospace, the perspective is a bit different. I have been building helicopter parts for Westland in kevlar-epoxy though in the past, and many passenger planes actually use a lot of composites today. It's a new world, I know, but the effort of learning may pay off easily. Speaking of... There's a company called Easy Composites in UK, who supply composites for hobbyists. They also have some DIY videos. I have experienced that PLA and glass-epoxy works fine together. So does plywood and fiberglass! You don't need more than a 50 g/sqm woven glass mat to seal and toughen the PLA a bit. 100 g/sqm and we are talking reinforcement... Good luck! Looking forward to see the next episode :-)
I got the notification for this video on my phone assuming this was RClifeon, started it and heard Tom stanton talking, then realized i was wrong again 😂 you got a new sub man
I wonder if it would be possible to use a gyro/flight controller to stop the boat flipping if it started to pitch to far.
I don't know if dialing back the power on the motors would help at that point or if it would already be too late.
first, i really like it.
second, are you sure about the CG. I think its near to the rear(!) more than it has to!
third, the rudder seems to be very weak for high speed boat!
thanks for the video again.
Nothing better than making things that go fast
Good build mate looks fantastic. Me personally I would have large steering rudders on both pontoons.
Before you increase the rear plane size, try working with the weight distribution. You may be able to correct without adding more friction.
Noice, very good design, but I think that having the propulsion set above the centre of mass is the biggest set back for models like these, I think if you can change the centre of thrust and have it only very slightly above the centre of mass would make it work much better, like the jet boat you show in the video would help, I know it helps how the boat works but at speeds your trying to get to you can use aerodynamics to help lift and/or push the boat into the water... yes it’s complicated and probably impossible with props and the model being at this scale but just a thought...
P.S - any one sceptical of my theory just understand that I’m still in high school and that I have a limited knowledge of aerodynamics etc. and this is just how it makes sense in my head.
P.P.S - I dabble in 3D modelling so if you want suggestions of reworked designs and they are actually feasible the I’d be happy to send some to you James... plus I’m bored so I want something to do...
@@jachinluttrell9404 If you're bored, try making something of your own!
ProjectAir Well I’d love too, this would be my hobby of all hobby’s but the only problem is that I don’t have an appropriate work space to do it in. Also, after actually getting some sleep I now realise that some of my reasoning was wrong, but this point still stands, have something like an EDF, I have a 3D model that I made on standby (not 3D printable, just the exterior idea and will be annotated) to show what I’m thinking, more boat shaped hull and room for an EDF.
Great video and we hope to see more of Blue Bird!
Keep up the good work. As usual a very interesting video and project :)
love the pace of your Video. Really great to watch!
You have a great future ... all of your projects and presentations are excellent..
Going to be Epic mate! Now you know why I mentioned a rear spoiler and perchance servo adjustable sponsons. A couple of quick trim adjustments and she'll plane out. Only a couple of channels to do spoiler and sponson servos (or just one to do the wing) Can't wait!
Was thinking about doing active aerodynamics with a flight controller at some point (if it survives that long!) 😂
Pvc compound would have actually been good at the joint. Its potent enough to actually slightly melt and bond the tubes. Provided it doesn't hurt the wood. I'm not sure. Look at nice large rubber setups off a large-scale vhull or something. Proboat rubber from a Shockwave or Sonicwake. They work good
Now that a proper build :)
Great first results, i'm not going to start saying you should of don this or that, that's what R&D is all about and half the fun.
keep it up bud and most important, have fun, remember he how dies with the most toys wins.
I can't wait to see this fly!
Nice design! - Will it also proof speed?
Could you have a weight inside that can be remotely moved back and forth towards the front, to pull the nose back down as it starts taking off?
Could this be automated by some sort of vertical height accelerometer?
Great videos man! Props from the us!
Great work and a great video, love to watch a detailed build,
makes me want to get the tools out :-)
Nice concept! Love the boat
Also Nice vid
Can’t wait to see more.
Looks good 👍
Love a good challenge. Go break some records 👏
Me thinks the sponsons are too big and heavy, they don't need to be that tall mate. It is a fun project, and I can't wait to see how it unfolds, good luck!